On the process of antiquing! When using fiebings antique paste, first, you dye the piece the color you want, then you'll want to apply an acrylic finish that will resist the paste. The best for this is fiebings pro resist, but resolene, super sheen, etc will work. You can do a couple coats to really make sure none of the antique bleeds into the main color. Then, once the finish is dry, you cover the piece in antique and immediately wipe it all off with a clean rag. Thing about this antiquing process is that it makes everything really shiny because of the acrylic. If you want to avoid antique entirely, then first dye the entire piece the color you want, then go back in and fill in the background areas with a darker dye and your brush. You have to be very careful, but you'll have less of an issue with dye bleeding into unwanted areas when you only re-dye the background. Awesome work! I love seeing your process
I'm by no means a leather worker but my late uncle was and because of him I dabbled in it as a kid. While seeing you cut in the floral patern I kept wondering when you would go back and cut in the little indications of veins/detail such leather work usually has. You mention you thought they came out too flat. That's why. Leaves usually have a few veins cut in then brought out with an edge shader during tooling. Stems are usually highlighted with the edge shader. Larger areas in leaves and petals with no veins are usually tooled in the center with a pear shader to cause the three dimensional curling or dished look. Those two tools will become as indispensable as your swivel knife once you've practiced with them. Either way the scabbard still came out beautiful. Really nice work. 👍
At about 5:10 you remark about the scabbard wobbling. You may have already figured this out, but I have not seen all of the videos or read all of the comments yet. I would take a piece of heavier suede leather, say about 18 inches long and like when deciding on the width of the leather for the scabbard, make this about an inch wider on each side and leave about an inch for depth and then return to the center, so then you have a piece when sewn together it can be filled with some clean dry sand. Hopefully this makes sense. It will be a formable pillow for the scabbard, but it will be firm enough to keep it from wobbling and also can supply enough support for tooling. I have used something similar for forming sheet metal.
I like the flat leaves. They reflect the light differently, and stand out from the patterned background. You don't need two colour tones to achieve that effect.
Nice Job. You will get much better cuts with the swivel knife if you let your leather dry more. If the leather is too wet it tends to grab the blade and you will have jagged lines or mushed up lines. Wait at least a few minutes before you start to cut into the leather and you will see a marked improvement. You should also be stropping your blade every few minutes, a polished blade will slice very cleanly and have sharp crisp lines. Thanks for posting the video. Good Luck in the future with your swivel knife work.
I saw some pictures of beautiful longsword scabbards from Albion and found your tutorial about making your own. Just want to say that your work is very helpful, I bought some engraving tools for leather and can´t wait to start my own scabbard build. Your vids are getting me closer to the way how it´s done. Thank you
Awesome to hear! It’s always interesting to find out where my uploads show up online. Thanks for letting me know about your project! Good luck with it!
I love youre work and tutorials, one thing i have learned when dealing with antique finish. Is dye the whole thing and then use the antique on the whole project. It'll have the base and the antique will just be in the cracks
Wow, Matt, this turned out great and I can't wait to see a belt for it. Once you stained it the large punch became less of a problem as well I feel and I absolutely love that deep red oxblood color, stunning work!
Thanks! Coming from you that means a lot since I know that you have an eye for quality! I'm still regretting that the leaves lack details, especially because the belt should probably match...
I wouldn't sweat it too much, there will always be a next time and like Paul Commented, pear shaders look like they would do the trick. You improve lots with every video you do and that is what matters.
Just a few tips i've picked up belt making. Antique paste works best once the leather has been sealed, i use a couple of coats of supeshene from tandy. When the paste is wiped off sealed leather it stays in the deep bits and doesn't stain the top colour. Before you seal the leather you can oil the leather and add some dye if you want more colour. I tend to use the fiebings pro oil dyes but dilute them heavily so i can do multiple coats rather than one heavy coat which is very difficult to get even. General order is dye/oil leather, seal, antique, wipe off, re seal. I think dying your project is a good idea as the tooling is quite shallow so wouldn't hold much antique anyway. I am not sure how robust the finish is as it is an eco product but tandy antique gel is a stain and antique in one you simply rub on and buff and add a protective seal top coat.
I have an unsolicited thought regarding the rocking/wobbling of the scabbard during stamping. Perhaps you could use a sort of heavy beanbag like the type armorsmiths sometimes use for dishing metal? It'd probably dampen and cradle the scabbard pretty well
1:30 Is the swivel knife like holding a pencil ? 10:05 Quite amazing piece of artwork you made. I love watching your all videos. I love learning how things work.
Thanks! It's very much like holding a pencil except for the ability to twist it to change or move in a certain direction. But it's really something you get used to quickly.
I have tried both wet and dry leather at the time of the dye application, but on this project I'd say the leather was about 95% dry. After the dye is allowed to dry, there are a number of top coats or finishes available depending on the amount of glossiness you're looking for and whether you need it to be water repellant. On my last scabbard, I used Fiebing's Saddle Lac, which was extra shiny. It wasn't flexible enough for the belt components though. It cracked a bit when I was less than careful with how I bent the belt. I've also used Fiebing's resolute. It's an acrylic, water resistant coating that gives the leather a matte look. It's not my favorite because I think the leather should have a little sheen to it. There's a product called Eco-Flo Satin Shene that is probably my favorite because it can be applied with as many coats as you need, and when you buff it, you'll get an attractive gloss that's not overly shiny.
do you prefer dyeing the leather or buying it already dyed?? i really like the color of this scabbard and im not sure if i would get the same aspect dyeing it myself
If you ask me, it looks fantastic already! Still, you're in time to add more details in the future, should you feel inclined to. Even if dyed, you can wet the leather a bit there and mark the stems on the leaves using an awl on an angle lower than 45º
Where did you see to do the tooling when you have it on the wood core. I'm pretty sure your supposed to do the tooling first, then add it to the wood core. You risk damaging the core the way you have done it. Glad it turned out okay.
On the process of antiquing!
When using fiebings antique paste, first, you dye the piece the color you want, then you'll want to apply an acrylic finish that will resist the paste. The best for this is fiebings pro resist, but resolene, super sheen, etc will work. You can do a couple coats to really make sure none of the antique bleeds into the main color. Then, once the finish is dry, you cover the piece in antique and immediately wipe it all off with a clean rag.
Thing about this antiquing process is that it makes everything really shiny because of the acrylic. If you want to avoid antique entirely, then first dye the entire piece the color you want, then go back in and fill in the background areas with a darker dye and your brush. You have to be very careful, but you'll have less of an issue with dye bleeding into unwanted areas when you only re-dye the background. Awesome work! I love seeing your process
Beautiful!
Thank you! Cheers!
I'm by no means a leather worker but my late uncle was and because of him I dabbled in it as a kid. While seeing you cut in the floral patern I kept wondering when you would go back and cut in the little indications of veins/detail such leather work usually has. You mention you thought they came out too flat. That's why. Leaves usually have a few veins cut in then brought out with an edge shader during tooling. Stems are usually highlighted with the edge shader. Larger areas in leaves and petals with no veins are usually tooled in the center with a pear shader to cause the three dimensional curling or dished look. Those two tools will become as indispensable as your swivel knife once you've practiced with them. Either way the scabbard still came out beautiful. Really nice work. 👍
Also using an edge beveler will create more depth.
Dude, I don't get how your channel doesn't have more views and likes. I've been on a tear of watching all your vids! Great work all over.
At about 5:10 you remark about the scabbard wobbling. You may have already figured this out, but I have not seen all of the videos or read all of the comments yet. I would take a piece of heavier suede leather, say about 18 inches long and like when deciding on the width of the leather for the scabbard, make this about an inch wider on each side and leave about an inch for depth and then return to the center, so then you have a piece when sewn together it can be filled with some clean dry sand.
Hopefully this makes sense. It will be a formable pillow for the scabbard, but it will be firm enough to keep it from wobbling and also can supply enough support for tooling. I have used something similar for forming sheet metal.
I like the flat leaves. They reflect the light differently, and stand out from the patterned background. You don't need two colour tones to achieve that effect.
@everything medieval Use a small brush and apply resist where you dont want stain. Then add the antique gel. Fiebings makes a nice resist.
good work
Nice Job. You will get much better cuts with the swivel knife if you let your leather dry more. If the leather is too wet it tends to grab the blade and you will have jagged lines or mushed up lines. Wait at least a few minutes before you start to cut into the leather and you will see a marked improvement. You should also be stropping your blade every few minutes, a polished blade will slice very cleanly and have sharp crisp lines. Thanks for posting the video. Good Luck in the future with your swivel knife work.
I saw some pictures of beautiful longsword scabbards from Albion and found your tutorial about making your own. Just want to say that your work is very helpful, I bought some engraving tools for leather and can´t wait to start my own scabbard build. Your vids are getting me closer to the way how it´s done. Thank you
Awesome to hear! It’s always interesting to find out where my uploads show up online. Thanks for letting me know about your project! Good luck with it!
Thanks
That's a work of art 👍👍 nice.
At first the stain looked too black with dark tan splotches,
But when it dried up it became burgundy 😎😎
I love youre work and tutorials, one thing i have learned when dealing with antique finish. Is dye the whole thing and then use the antique on the whole project. It'll have the base and the antique will just be in the cracks
Wow, Matt, this turned out great and I can't wait to see a belt for it.
Once you stained it the large punch became less of a problem as well I feel and I absolutely love that deep red oxblood color, stunning work!
Thanks! Coming from you that means a lot since I know that you have an eye for quality! I'm still regretting that the leaves lack details, especially because the belt should probably match...
I wouldn't sweat it too much, there will always be a next time and like Paul Commented, pear shaders look like they would do the trick. You improve lots with every video you do and that is what matters.
Awsome work thanks for the inspiration...
Great artwork and great video. Thumbs up!!!
Thank you, my friend!
That looks really amazing. I can't imagine taking on a project where I had no "undo" button.
Right!
Wow! You are really awesome men !!! I like your videos
Awesome work, I'm inspired to do one now. I've got a sword with a crappy scabbard, maybe I can start a spring rain project.
Just a few tips i've picked up belt making. Antique paste works best once the leather has been sealed, i use a couple of coats of supeshene from tandy. When the paste is wiped off sealed leather it stays in the deep bits and doesn't stain the top colour. Before you seal the leather you can oil the leather and add some dye if you want more colour. I tend to use the fiebings pro oil dyes but dilute them heavily so i can do multiple coats rather than one heavy coat which is very difficult to get even. General order is dye/oil leather, seal, antique, wipe off, re seal. I think dying your project is a good idea as the tooling is quite shallow so wouldn't hold much antique anyway.
I am not sure how robust the finish is as it is an eco product but tandy antique gel is a stain and antique in one you simply rub on and buff and add a protective seal top coat.
Great info and tips. Thank you!!
It looks really pretty! I know in the last video you said you didn't like the smaller circles, but I think it looks pretty good!
I have an unsolicited thought regarding the rocking/wobbling of the scabbard during stamping. Perhaps you could use a sort of heavy beanbag like the type armorsmiths sometimes use for dishing metal? It'd probably dampen and cradle the scabbard pretty well
Nice!
Looks great, have you considerd trying to buff up the leaves, might create some more differentiation between them and the background?
1:30 Is the swivel knife like holding a pencil ? 10:05 Quite amazing piece of artwork you made. I love watching your all videos. I love learning how things work.
Thanks! It's very much like holding a pencil except for the ability to twist it to change or move in a certain direction. But it's really something you get used to quickly.
When I work on horns or other things that move I use sand bags
A stonishing work, especially with pattern.
Can i ask where can I get the round stamp with which you make the dots ?
All of my stamping tools, including the round stamp here, are from Tandy Leather. They have a website if there’s not a Tandy store near you.
@@MattsGreatHall thanks a lot👍👍👍
Looks amazing. Do you dye the leather when it's wet or dry? Also, do you have to apply anything to the leather after it's dyed?
I have tried both wet and dry leather at the time of the dye application, but on this project I'd say the leather was about 95% dry. After the dye is allowed to dry, there are a number of top coats or finishes available depending on the amount of glossiness you're looking for and whether you need it to be water repellant. On my last scabbard, I used Fiebing's Saddle Lac, which was extra shiny. It wasn't flexible enough for the belt components though. It cracked a bit when I was less than careful with how I bent the belt. I've also used Fiebing's resolute. It's an acrylic, water resistant coating that gives the leather a matte look. It's not my favorite because I think the leather should have a little sheen to it. There's a product called Eco-Flo Satin Shene that is probably my favorite because it can be applied with as many coats as you need, and when you buff it, you'll get an attractive gloss that's not overly shiny.
do you prefer dyeing the leather or buying it already dyed?? i really like the color of this scabbard and im not sure if i would get the same aspect dyeing it myself
If you ask me, it looks fantastic already!
Still, you're in time to add more details in the future, should you feel inclined to. Even if dyed, you can wet the leather a bit there and mark the stems on the leaves using an awl on an angle lower than 45º
Thanks for the help!!
Do u make leather scabbard?
Where did you see to do the tooling when you have it on the wood core. I'm pretty sure your supposed to do the tooling first, then add it to the wood core. You risk damaging the core the way you have done it. Glad it turned out okay.
Peter Johnsson, the sword smith, had posted a number of pictures to his Facebook. I did my best to copy his work. He’s a very talented guy.
On trials use scrap to practice on. Watch some vids on leather tooling.
What is the music at 1:10?
First you stain the whole piece then rub in the antiquing.