Have you ever had an issue with the pressure squeezing the Vaseline onto the dice face? I stopped using my pressure pot for this reason. And I'm talking about minimal application of Vaseline, nothing excessive.
Personally, I have not when I used the brush. But our Vaseline is fairly think. I currently testing some other options for releases too. Hoping to have a few more videos out soon!
@@TheSmithsForge While the pressure pot works, I can recommend a vacuum chamber for silicone. It degasses quickly, you can locate the curing item somewhere suitable, and it doesn't tie up equipment. Vaseline is ideal, but I dilute with white spirit to make Naphtha (Eric Strebel's favourite release agent). This gives a mix that's easier to apply and gives a thin layer. Just need to ensure the diluting doesn't introduce sulfur or anything else that causes cure inhibition with the platinum cure. No concern for tin cure. The tip about using transfer tape is a good one! Hadn't thought of that. I like the mould cases. When I was moulding a victorian doorknob I wanted a similar case, and on mine, I created two halves of the cylinder like yours, with a v shaped lip and groove down the edges so the two halves slotted together. I had a vertical wedge down the seam on the outside that a clip could be slid onto to hold the halves together. So press the halves together, slide a clip down on each side and done. The shell slotted into a base that had keys on, you'd do the pour, remove the base when set, open the halves and shift the mould, close it again, apply the release agent the top off the cavity with the second pour. Getting the base off was slightly tricky if I remember, but super satisfying like you were saying :) Tape would have been easier. Interested to see what else you come up with :)
I like you molds they are cool. I have a question, how do you keep your 3d resin printed dice from not having inhibition issues with the silicone? I have tried a spray of like spray paint but it has some problems like bubbles or extra layers of the paint. Would really love to hear your ways to fix the issue. Thank you!
Good question! I use printer resin that is resistant or completely immune to cure inhibition! Siaraytech ABS like is a good hobbyist level option that is resistant. But, I use Form labs resin that does not cause cure inhibition at all now.
Hey, I designed for, and print mine on FDM printers. But I have had a few people print theirs in resin. Just a couple of things to keep in mind. Resin printing is harder to get dimensional accuracy, you will want to really tighten your settings with dimensional tests. Then just keep in mind that silicone reacts to certain resin for a while after it is printed.
So cool
Thank you very much for sharing your Mold Maker with us. I love them.
Thanks for the kind words!
Nice mold design!
Thank you, we just dropped a Vol.2 with a bunch of new features!
Subbed, good work and keep it up.
Thank you!
That is a really cool idea for making molds! I've got a friend who makes dice, this would be a pretty cool gift for him.
Thanks! Let me know if you have any questions!
love it! i am having trrouble with printing masters, but when thats sorted, i am considering buying and printing these mould
Keep an eye out, might make a masters video soon. Remember to have fun!
Have you ever had an issue with the pressure squeezing the Vaseline onto the dice face? I stopped using my pressure pot for this reason. And I'm talking about minimal application of Vaseline, nothing excessive.
Personally, I have not when I used the brush. But our Vaseline is fairly think. I currently testing some other options for releases too. Hoping to have a few more videos out soon!
@@TheSmithsForge While the pressure pot works, I can recommend a vacuum chamber for silicone. It degasses quickly, you can locate the curing item somewhere suitable, and it doesn't tie up equipment. Vaseline is ideal, but I dilute with white spirit to make Naphtha (Eric Strebel's favourite release agent). This gives a mix that's easier to apply and gives a thin layer. Just need to ensure the diluting doesn't introduce sulfur or anything else that causes cure inhibition with the platinum cure. No concern for tin cure. The tip about using transfer tape is a good one! Hadn't thought of that. I like the mould cases. When I was moulding a victorian doorknob I wanted a similar case, and on mine, I created two halves of the cylinder like yours, with a v shaped lip and groove down the edges so the two halves slotted together. I had a vertical wedge down the seam on the outside that a clip could be slid onto to hold the halves together. So press the halves together, slide a clip down on each side and done. The shell slotted into a base that had keys on, you'd do the pour, remove the base when set, open the halves and shift the mould, close it again, apply the release agent the top off the cavity with the second pour. Getting the base off was slightly tricky if I remember, but super satisfying like you were saying :) Tape would have been easier. Interested to see what else you come up with :)
I like you molds they are cool. I have a question, how do you keep your 3d resin printed dice from not having inhibition issues with the silicone? I have tried a spray of like spray paint but it has some problems like bubbles or extra layers of the paint. Would really love to hear your ways to fix the issue. Thank you!
Good question! I use printer resin that is resistant or completely immune to cure inhibition! Siaraytech ABS like is a good hobbyist level option that is resistant. But, I use Form labs resin that does not cause cure inhibition at all now.
@@TheSmithsForge Ah okay well since you didnt say Anycubic I will have to test it out and see if it works or not. I thank you for your input and help.
how are you getting around cure inhibition, is that tin-cure?
Nope, that’s platinum cure silicone! I print masters in a resin that doesn’t have cure inhibition.
Can i use a resin printer to make this mold? Or filament
only?
Hey, I designed for, and print mine on FDM printers. But I have had a few people print theirs in resin. Just a couple of things to keep in mind.
Resin printing is harder to get dimensional accuracy, you will want to really tighten your settings with dimensional tests.
Then just keep in mind that silicone reacts to certain resin for a while after it is printed.
9:00 "it will seal permanently together"... assuming you didn't cure it right, yeeaaahhh...
Silicone can be like that, great stuff. When it works.
Does the transfer tape not cause any cure inhibition? Every time I try to make a mold with a tape border, the edges are just awful and sticky. :(
I find that Cricut transfer tape doesn’t cause inhibition with the silicone that we use.