Couple things I noticed. I have never seen a gallon of flush cost more than $40. $80 is Insane. I sold that FJC brand for $30. Also the bad info your rebuilder gave you is crazy. The Panasonic (Matsushita) compressor is a rotary vane style design. One of the WORST ever made. Sanden is one of the best. Hence why so many manufacturers still use them today. Panasonic hasn't been around for decades now. Try using Compressor International in Reseda. Only rebuilders I trust. Also, sight glasses were great for R12. They are useless for R134a. That's why they either don't put them on or just paint over them. Bubbles showed you were low on refrigerant for R12. Bubbles are always showing with R134 and old-timers would just keep adding expecting them to go away causing problems. Pag Oil is hygroscopic and your drier contains a desiccant bag. You don't want to expose either of these to air for very long. The moisture from the air and pag Oil combines and creates acid that will eat at the components and seals. Anyway, just my two cents. Celebrating my 30th year in the ac business. I got certified at 12 years old.
Considering how many certified shops don't even care about weight, it sounds like getting a cert is pretty easy. Giving a shit about the quality of your work, however, is a different story. A certified AC tech at Pep Boys ruined my Miata AC, so I'm considering getting a cert so I'd be allowed to touch a recovery machine. Which by the way, it's entirely silly that we can buy cans of r134 retail, but are not allowed to safely recover it. Thinking back, the comment about the Sanden was more about it not being a good idea to introduce more variables into your existing AC system if you don't need to. The point was that if what you have CAN be rebuilt, then it should be rebuilt. If you're building a completely custom system, then it obviously makes sense to go with what has the best support. Someday I'd like to do that, it sounds like fun. Thanks for the referral, it's hard finding quality rebuilders. Maybe they can sell me cleaning solvent at a better price than Amazon. Some day it would be a cool video series to visit these shops and let them show how things are done. There's too much misinformation out there...I'm know I got some things wrong but have you seen some of the other videos by these youtubers with MILLIONS of subs? That's what's crazy. I tried to acknowledge the learning curve and I hope I've properly conveyed the respect I have for the craft. I'm a software developer professionally, so I'm learning as I go. Thanks for pointing out some potential missteps in my video. I'm very grateful for this because your critiques are pretty deep in the weeds, it means I got enough things right that you felt it worthwhile to pick apart some of the more nuanced details. I'll keep it in mind as I do more work on my other car.
You are indeed the Prelude Whisperer! I can't wait for you to get your hands on mine! My Prelude, that is!
I just hope I don't ruin the paint, I'll use protection!
On your prelude, that is!
Couple things I noticed. I have never seen a gallon of flush cost more than $40. $80 is Insane. I sold that FJC brand for $30. Also the bad info your rebuilder gave you is crazy. The Panasonic (Matsushita) compressor is a rotary vane style design. One of the WORST ever made. Sanden is one of the best. Hence why so many manufacturers still use them today. Panasonic hasn't been around for decades now. Try using Compressor International in Reseda. Only rebuilders I trust. Also, sight glasses were great for R12. They are useless for R134a. That's why they either don't put them on or just paint over them. Bubbles showed you were low on refrigerant for R12. Bubbles are always showing with R134 and old-timers would just keep adding expecting them to go away causing problems. Pag Oil is hygroscopic and your drier contains a desiccant bag. You don't want to expose either of these to air for very long. The moisture from the air and pag Oil combines and creates acid that will eat at the components and seals. Anyway, just my two cents. Celebrating my 30th year in the ac business. I got certified at 12 years old.
Considering how many certified shops don't even care about weight, it sounds like getting a cert is pretty easy. Giving a shit about the quality of your work, however, is a different story. A certified AC tech at Pep Boys ruined my Miata AC, so I'm considering getting a cert so I'd be allowed to touch a recovery machine. Which by the way, it's entirely silly that we can buy cans of r134 retail, but are not allowed to safely recover it.
Thinking back, the comment about the Sanden was more about it not being a good idea to introduce more variables into your existing AC system if you don't need to. The point was that if what you have CAN be rebuilt, then it should be rebuilt. If you're building a completely custom system, then it obviously makes sense to go with what has the best support. Someday I'd like to do that, it sounds like fun.
Thanks for the referral, it's hard finding quality rebuilders. Maybe they can sell me cleaning solvent at a better price than Amazon. Some day it would be a cool video series to visit these shops and let them show how things are done. There's too much misinformation out there...I'm know I got some things wrong but have you seen some of the other videos by these youtubers with MILLIONS of subs? That's what's crazy.
I tried to acknowledge the learning curve and I hope I've properly conveyed the respect I have for the craft. I'm a software developer professionally, so I'm learning as I go. Thanks for pointing out some potential missteps in my video. I'm very grateful for this because your critiques are pretty deep in the weeds, it means I got enough things right that you felt it worthwhile to pick apart some of the more nuanced details. I'll keep it in mind as I do more work on my other car.