Ive watched your videos for awhile man. I appreciate what you do as well. I have a couple of the diesel heaters at my home but ive not ever assembled them because im rarely home lol. I do use the diesel heater in my semi truck every night now tho and diesel heaters are the best thing since sliced bread and dont use much fuel at all. Ive seen other videos where they use an old radiator for running the exhaust thru to scavenge any heat loss in the exhaust.
@OffGridBasement bro old type radiators like in the videos seem pretty slick but I think just a small car radiator would work even better and maybe a couple computer fans on the car radiator would be excellent. That's my plan on how I want to set up my diesel heaters once I get time to actually be home enough to do it. Hopefully I'll get it done on my Christmas break. Thanks for doing all the videos too man. I'm a huge solar fanatic and have built two batteries now. One Nissan leaf 24 cell pack and another I built from 32 280ah eve cells. My whole home is ran from solar and so is my little out building workshop. I have 9 victron charge controllers and several cheapo charge controllers as well lol. I even got the 24 24 DC to DC charger to link my two different batteries. It's all more a hobby I guess but still man I like the videos so keep up the good work
I just yesterday Amazon a diesel heater. Got a bunch of quieting mods for it. I’m nervous and excited to get it hooked up. Will stay tuned. I don’t want to keep running my 1500 WATTS space heater!!!
Run a 2nd tube out the wall for feeding the engine air intake. That way it's not pulling cold air into the room - at the rate of the air blown out the exhaust. Then you'll actually be heating the same air
Thermostat on the heater is in the display. Sitting next to the warm vented air. Need to add display cable extension and move the display to a nuetral area to get more accurate temp. I like the fill system you set up, much better than pouring👍
True, unless you put it outside so it’s quieter. I have purchased a lot of silencing mods. So might move indoors and do that exhaust heat retention idea.
Manual for the heater cautions that frictional flow resistance is a problem with a heayer hose run that long. The internal fan us too small for that length.
That's another reason why I have the Y-splitter. Doesn't force all the heat through the 8ft hose. If I didn't have that I would've increased to a 4" hose. Thanks for the comment!
I used one a yr ago and ran my exhaust thru a 10ft piece of cast iron 8in pipe and had a fan on one end of the pipe and it blew nice heat thru it from just the exhaust. It worked well but radiator seems to be a better idea I'm going to do it with a tiny house build
An insulation contractor can install cellulose insulation in your exterior walls by making a 1 inch hole in each stud bay. I have had it done. It wasn't that expensive (12 years ago). I reused the hole saw core to aid in making the drywall repair easier. Check with local contractors. Yeah, insulate that door.
Did they do it with one hole? When I looked into it, the small-hole guys did one low and one high. One contractor did a single 4in hole 1/4 of the way down.
good video. a few thoughts/ questions- the thermometer on the fridge might be reading the temp of the defrost circuit most ave around the doors. seems as though you are drying the air out- and taking the major chill out of the air. what is your square footage of the garage??? and- have you considered - even a sheet of plastic over the garage door - to make one more small barrier fromthe cold air outside??? did you run the fuel tank ry?? how long was run time total??? looking forward to the follow-up .thansk
I didn't run the tank dry, but I'm certain it would get about 12 hours of runtime. I just didn't want to run it any further because the temp in the garage wasn't rising. Once I insulate the garage I'll redo the test to find out if the benefits outweigh the cost of insulation.
lol thought u said it was an 8 calorie heater. man thats going to take forever. i got one of those 5 kw models on sale during 11.11 from china for 55 bucks. 2 car garage, but well insulated. i just pipe it out under the garage door and put al tape on the bottom garage door seal to keep it from melting. even with a crack it was able to heat my garage alright today, 32f outside. i put some foam and blocked off about half of the crack under the garage door and that helped, felt like 60-65F.
I use a small propane salamander, 30 to 60 thousand BTU's adjustable and it heats my un-insulated two and a half garage in 20 degree temps above 55 degrees. At 55 degrees I can work in a t-shirt and have to turn the heater down to 30 thousand or its too hot. Its very comfortable at that temp while working on projects.
At full tilt this unit is only 27,300 BTU and a lot of that goes out the exhaust. Did you happen to monitor humidity, CO and CO2 while running your salamander in the garage? My father-in-law used to run one in his shed and it would literally rain on us. The next day the ceiling would be covered with ice drops that would fall the next time it warmed above freezing in there.
Plus you have the pleasure of listening to a jet engine while you’re out there, and have an unvented propane heater, so you’ll have plenty of moisture in the air!
You've got a heat source capable of around 27,000 BTU's. You've got a largely uninsulated space that would require 40,000 to 50,000 BTU's to heat effectively. In other words, that diesel heater is a tack hammer and you're trying to drive in 16-penny framing nails. I use the same heater for my wife's 8'x12' she-shed, which is somewhat insulated, and that thing will make it 40 degrees warmer than ambient temps.
8kw is not quite 27,300 BTU. But most of these are rated as input power (and most propane and kerosene heaters also) so a lot of that will go out the exhaust.
What is the point to heat up the air and sucking it than through the heater to the outside. You get an underpressure in the garage and cold air is sucked into the garage. That is a bad setup of heating. It would be more effective, if the air for the combustion of the heater is taken from outside. By the way, the exhaust pipe takes more than 10% of heat unused to the outside. If you add an heatexchanger or extend the pipe (with bigger diameter), you can increase the efficiancy.
It appears you are pulling combustion air from inside the garage. That will cause negative pressure in the garage forcing makeup air to be sucked in from any leak anywhere around the garage. Much better to pull the combustion air from outside. I'd run the line beside the exhaust line - a little bit of preheat the air coming in and take heat out of the exhaust.
Yeah but , once you heat up the air inside the garage , there will be a pressure differential between outside and inside (hot vs cold)... the cold will push through the holes anyways...
@@GabrielKozsar That's sort of true in theory but not really. Warm air is less dense, meaning it expands when heated. If the inside air did expand sufficiently then it would either push out (keeping out the cold air) or overdraft the combustion appliance by pushing thru it or perhaps precisely balance. In practice it doesn't expand enough to matter and that is where your "cold will push thru anyway" experience comes in. (Note the cold doesn't push in, but is sucked in unless you have a nice wind and holes in the windward side.) You can calculate the expansion ratio using the temperature differential. Even 50F delta doesn't cause enough expansion to even bother thinking further about it. The incoming air leaks from burning and exhausting inside air are a big problem. I've done A:B comparisons in multiple spaces and it is usually fairly easy to find the intake draft when using interior combustion air. The bigger the combustion appliance the worse the problem. My last house with a small wood stove was impossible to heat until I figured out I needed to slightly open a window near the stove. That kept the cold draft near the stove instead of a little air coming from everywhere, and the rest of the house would then warm up. Note that in no case was the fire starved. Even if you don't notice the problem with cold drafts, maybe especially if you don't notice, the problem may be even worse as the intake may be coming thru exhaust fans or another flue or even plumbing vents. A neighbor found a dry trap in an old floor drain underneath his basement carpet by tracing the septic tank stink that happened every time he fired up his wood stove.
If a litre of diesel holds +- 10kw of energy and u have a heater that pumps out 8kw of energy and is 100% efficienty u need 0,8 litre per hour but these heaters use around 0,43-0,45l a hour making them at best around 4kw of real heat output as u have losses trought exhaust. If u had a real 8kw heater u had double the heat meaning u could crank it up T-shirt temps inside.
Your waisting alot of heat with your exhaust if you go find a old cast iron radiator you can run you exhaust thru that and it will heat that up and then radiate the heat better and it will stay warm when you shut it off. There are tons of videos showing you how awesome it works.
You have no fresh air intake, for combustion, pulling outside air. Your heating the space and exhausting the heated air and pulling in cold air, negative pressure. Essentially your spot heating not conditioning the space.
nope .... once you heat up the air inside the garage , there will be a pressure differential between outside and inside (hot vs cold)... cold air will push through anyways... it's the same thing with radiator heating , the cold will push through windows/doors which do not seal perfectly .. It's kinda beneficial to have a little leak to push in fresh air., no? Depends on the size of the room obviously.
@GabrielKozsar A leak is fine so some fresh air comes in. But, constantly exhausting heat air is not conditioning the space. It's the same with portable air conditioners. The units with one hose are spot coolers as they don't condition the space. Units with two hoses, one in and one out, condition the space.
You should locate your CO monitor closer to the ceiling where CO accumulates? CO is lighter than air. You would receive an earlier warning than walking into a CO rich room at waist level.
Ive watched your videos for awhile man. I appreciate what you do as well. I have a couple of the diesel heaters at my home but ive not ever assembled them because im rarely home lol. I do use the diesel heater in my semi truck every night now tho and diesel heaters are the best thing since sliced bread and dont use much fuel at all. Ive seen other videos where they use an old radiator for running the exhaust thru to scavenge any heat loss in the exhaust.
I've seen those old radiator videos too! Looks pretty slick. Not too sure where to get one. Thanks for the comment. I really appreciate it.
@OffGridBasement bro old type radiators like in the videos seem pretty slick but I think just a small car radiator would work even better and maybe a couple computer fans on the car radiator would be excellent. That's my plan on how I want to set up my diesel heaters once I get time to actually be home enough to do it. Hopefully I'll get it done on my Christmas break. Thanks for doing all the videos too man. I'm a huge solar fanatic and have built two batteries now. One Nissan leaf 24 cell pack and another I built from 32 280ah eve cells. My whole home is ran from solar and so is my little out building workshop. I have 9 victron charge controllers and several cheapo charge controllers as well lol. I even got the 24 24 DC to DC charger to link my two different batteries. It's all more a hobby I guess but still man I like the videos so keep up the good work
I just yesterday Amazon a diesel heater. Got a bunch of quieting mods for it. I’m nervous and excited to get it hooked up.
Will stay tuned.
I don’t want to keep running my 1500 WATTS space heater!!!
The 1500 watt electric heat provides just over 5100 BTU.
I understand. The diesel heater will be much more efficient. Thanks for the comment.
Run a 2nd tube out the wall for feeding the engine air intake. That way it's not pulling cold air into the room - at the rate of the air blown out the exhaust. Then you'll actually be heating the same air
That's a good tip, thanks!
Great Video Thanks. Maybe put a small fan under the heater to get some heat off of the exhaust pipe. I love how you fill the heater.
Thanks! good idea about the fan. I'll look into it.
Nice clean installation.
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for the comment!
Thermostat on the heater is in the display. Sitting next to the warm vented air. Need to add display cable extension and move the display to a nuetral area to get more accurate temp. I like the fill system you set up, much better than pouring👍
Wasn't sure where the thermostat was on the unit. Thanks for the info and the comment!
There is so much variety, I'm actually surprised we don't see a dual heater version
That would be nice. I'm sure we will see something like that in the future. Thanks for the comment!
Nice video again. If you let the exhaust flow through a radiator, it will be much more efficient
True, unless you put it outside so it’s quieter.
I have purchased a lot of silencing mods. So might move indoors and do that exhaust heat retention idea.
Thanks for the tip!
A 16’ 20*f garage door is killing it.Insulate the door.I cut 4-5 sheets and is great now insulated.😊
I agree, insulation is key. I've got some on order. I plan on doing a follow up afterward. Thanks for the comment.
@@OffGridBasement I bought 4 or 5 sheets of 3/4 inch white insulation board.I had room for 2 layers.Fantastic improvement all year round!
A 16’ 20*f garage door is killing it.Insulate the door.I cut 4-5 sheets and is great now insulated.
Thanks for the tip!
Manual for the heater cautions that frictional flow resistance is a problem with a heayer hose run that long. The internal fan us too small for that length.
That's another reason why I have the Y-splitter. Doesn't force all the heat through the 8ft hose. If I didn't have that I would've increased to a 4" hose. Thanks for the comment!
I used one a yr ago and ran my exhaust thru a 10ft piece of cast iron 8in pipe and had a fan on one end of the pipe and it blew nice heat thru it from just the exhaust. It worked well but radiator seems to be a better idea I'm going to do it with a tiny house build
Thanks for the comment!
I would have checked above ceiling to see if it's insulated a lot of heat rises
No insulation in the attic space either.
very cool thanks for sharing
I'm glad you liked it!
An insulation contractor can install cellulose insulation in your exterior walls by making a 1 inch hole in each stud bay. I have had it done. It wasn't that expensive (12 years ago). I reused the hole saw core to aid in making the drywall repair easier.
Check with local contractors. Yeah, insulate that door.
Did they do it with one hole? When I looked into it, the small-hole guys did one low and one high. One contractor did a single 4in hole 1/4 of the way down.
@@Sylvan_dB yes
Thanks for the info and the comment!
I’d keep an eye on that exhaust vent. If it gets any rain or snow around it and you shut the heater off, it could freeze blocking the vent
That's a good point, I hadn't thought of that. It is about two feet off the ground, but that is a valid point! Thanks!
good video. a few thoughts/ questions- the thermometer on the fridge might be reading the temp of the defrost circuit most ave around the doors. seems as though you are drying the air out- and taking the major chill out of the air. what is your square footage of the garage??? and- have you considered - even a sheet of plastic over the garage door - to make one more small barrier fromthe cold air outside??? did you run the fuel tank ry?? how long was run time total???
looking forward to the follow-up .thansk
I didn't run the tank dry, but I'm certain it would get about 12 hours of runtime. I just didn't want to run it any further because the temp in the garage wasn't rising. Once I insulate the garage I'll redo the test to find out if the benefits outweigh the cost of insulation.
lol thought u said it was an 8 calorie heater. man thats going to take forever.
i got one of those 5 kw models on sale during 11.11 from china for 55 bucks. 2 car garage, but well insulated. i just pipe it out under the garage door and put al tape on the bottom garage door seal to keep it from melting. even with a crack it was able to heat my garage alright today, 32f outside. i put some foam and blocked off about half of the crack under the garage door and that helped, felt like 60-65F.
Thanks for the info. I think I'm definitely in need of garage door insulation!
Interesting project. I think I'd just buy a parka and work in the basement instead of the garage LOL
hahah! It would be a lot easier to set up! Thanks for the comment.
I'm hoping my future implemtation will at least evaporate all of the car-dropped ice and slush in the garage this winter.
That is what I really want mine to do as well, but I think I need to insulate my garage door first.
I use a small propane salamander, 30 to 60 thousand BTU's adjustable and it heats my un-insulated two and a half garage in 20 degree temps above 55 degrees. At 55 degrees I can work in a t-shirt and have to turn the heater down to 30 thousand or its too hot. Its very comfortable at that temp while working on projects.
At full tilt this unit is only 27,300 BTU and a lot of that goes out the exhaust. Did you happen to monitor humidity, CO and CO2 while running your salamander in the garage? My father-in-law used to run one in his shed and it would literally rain on us. The next day the ceiling would be covered with ice drops that would fall the next time it warmed above freezing in there.
Plus you have the pleasure of listening to a jet engine while you’re out there, and have an unvented propane heater, so you’ll have plenty of moisture in the air!
Thanks for the comment!
I would have run the pump for transfer under the heater or something, it will inevitably drip.
I'll put that into consideration when the time comes. Thanks for the comment.
Thermometers as opposed to thermostats.
You've got a heat source capable of around 27,000 BTU's. You've got a largely uninsulated space that would require 40,000 to 50,000 BTU's to heat effectively.
In other words, that diesel heater is a tack hammer and you're trying to drive in 16-penny framing nails. I use the same heater for my wife's 8'x12' she-shed, which is somewhat insulated, and that thing will make it 40 degrees warmer than ambient temps.
Great video and info. Kerosene heater is what you need.
I'm really hoping to be able to use this to melt snow and ice off the cars. Insulating the garage door is going to be the first step.
How many BTUs is your heater?.
8kw is not quite 27,300 BTU. But most of these are rated as input power (and most propane and kerosene heaters also) so a lot of that will go out the exhaust.
What is the point to heat up the air and sucking it than through the heater to the outside. You get an underpressure in the garage and cold air is sucked into the garage. That is a bad setup of heating. It would be more effective, if the air for the combustion of the heater is taken from outside.
By the way, the exhaust pipe takes more than 10% of heat unused to the outside. If you add an heatexchanger or extend the pipe (with bigger diameter), you can increase the efficiancy.
Thanks for the comment and info.
It appears you are pulling combustion air from inside the garage. That will cause negative pressure in the garage forcing makeup air to be sucked in from any leak anywhere around the garage. Much better to pull the combustion air from outside. I'd run the line beside the exhaust line - a little bit of preheat the air coming in and take heat out of the exhaust.
Yeah but , once you heat up the air inside the garage , there will be a pressure differential between outside and inside (hot vs cold)... the cold will push through the holes anyways...
@@GabrielKozsar That's sort of true in theory but not really. Warm air is less dense, meaning it expands when heated. If the inside air did expand sufficiently then it would either push out (keeping out the cold air) or overdraft the combustion appliance by pushing thru it or perhaps precisely balance. In practice it doesn't expand enough to matter and that is where your "cold will push thru anyway" experience comes in. (Note the cold doesn't push in, but is sucked in unless you have a nice wind and holes in the windward side.) You can calculate the expansion ratio using the temperature differential. Even 50F delta doesn't cause enough expansion to even bother thinking further about it.
The incoming air leaks from burning and exhausting inside air are a big problem. I've done A:B comparisons in multiple spaces and it is usually fairly easy to find the intake draft when using interior combustion air. The bigger the combustion appliance the worse the problem. My last house with a small wood stove was impossible to heat until I figured out I needed to slightly open a window near the stove. That kept the cold draft near the stove instead of a little air coming from everywhere, and the rest of the house would then warm up. Note that in no case was the fire starved.
Even if you don't notice the problem with cold drafts, maybe especially if you don't notice, the problem may be even worse as the intake may be coming thru exhaust fans or another flue or even plumbing vents. A neighbor found a dry trap in an old floor drain underneath his basement carpet by tracing the septic tank stink that happened every time he fired up his wood stove.
If a litre of diesel holds +- 10kw of energy and u have a heater that pumps out 8kw of energy and is 100% efficienty u need 0,8 litre per hour but these heaters use around 0,43-0,45l a hour making them at best around 4kw of real heat output as u have losses trought exhaust.
If u had a real 8kw heater u had double the heat meaning u could crank it up T-shirt temps inside.
Thanks for the info and the comment.
Your waisting alot of heat with your exhaust if you go find a old cast iron radiator you can run you exhaust thru that and it will heat that up and then radiate the heat better and it will stay warm when you shut it off. There are tons of videos showing you how awesome it works.
I've watched a few of those. Thanks for the info and the comment!
You have no fresh air intake, for combustion, pulling outside air. Your heating the space and exhausting the heated air and pulling in cold air, negative pressure.
Essentially your spot heating not conditioning the space.
nope .... once you heat up the air inside the garage , there will be a pressure differential between outside and inside (hot vs cold)... cold air will push through anyways... it's the same thing with radiator heating , the cold will push through windows/doors which do not seal perfectly .. It's kinda beneficial to have a little leak to push in fresh air., no? Depends on the size of the room obviously.
@GabrielKozsar A leak is fine so some fresh air comes in. But, constantly exhausting heat air is not conditioning the space.
It's the same with portable air conditioners. The units with one hose are spot coolers as they don't condition the space. Units with two hoses, one in and one out, condition the space.
Thanks for the comment. I'll start with insulation, then if I'm still not happy with the results I'll port out the fresh air intake.
You should locate your CO monitor closer to the ceiling where CO accumulates? CO is lighter than air. You would receive an earlier warning than walking into a CO rich room at waist level.
Most sources say about 5ft-ish above the floor.
Thanks for the info. Didn't think of that.
LOL HEAT RISES SO NOT SURE HOW YOUR GETTING HEAT FROM UPSTAIRS DOWN TO YOUR BASEMENT ON ITS OWN lol
I wish this was pumping into my basement! That would be perfect!!
Ain't the way I'd do it.
Thanks for letting us know.
Thanks for the comment.