Awesome video, this is the best how to on butt joints I've seen yet. You can tell by the way you handle your tools you're a real pro. I've seen many drywall videos where the person can barely handle a 6.
Not only did it help, but it was perfect instruction. I've asked this question about what to do with butt joints for at least 30 years. (I only do it once in a blue moon) NO one has ever been able to answer the question, even at the suppliers. Thanks!
As a homeowner that has dealt with fighting mud and sanding butt joint and new sheetrock to existing painted drywall this video was a great tutorial for my latest repair. Thanks!
Great job . Clean lines . A trowel will be easier on your wrist in the regards to pressure when you feather the edges ....but it doesn’t matter how you do it, it’s how it looks when it’s done! Great video my man
Mitch, compound recommendation question: So where I live we can mostly get USG products from the big box stores. For a diy'er project that i feel i did a very nice fit up job hanging the drywall boards with very little gaps, nothing over 1/8 inch gap to fill, Would you recommend using in order: (1) All purpose compound for taping & screw covering. (2) Plus 3 compound for each additional coat after taping all purpose is dry? thanks!
Thanks for the tips. I am one of those guys who has used the fiber tape on many jobs, I think because when I first started I would get bubbles in the paper tape> Also I tend to take on big projects only every couple years. I am about to take on my own new home. I think I will break away from my own ways and attempt at the paper. Thanks for all your tips.
I cut a 45 degree angle and only half way through on both sheets, butt the two sheets together (like welding two sheets of metal when welding a seamless joint) and that way you can sand flush, BUT do this with two application of compound, because compound will not set up inside if it is 3/8 thick or more with one spreading...paper tape seems thinner
is this guy related to briansmobile1? Holy moly, the voice is exactly the same. Ya know, cause people that are related have similar voices. OK, so they don't, but still, it is amazing thing how unique and exact. Best thing that happened this week! Really make this mudding thing look easy. Has to be a whole slew of people that watch this and then go and try it and come back and watch it and go try it again and cuss. You've done this a couple times, eh?
Mitch, you are the man! Im drywalling for the 1st time and so far its coming out great. Im about half done, finishing up taping/mudding now, sanding is next. Thanks for the great videos.
@@israellopez6487 and I’ve been making a nice living off of guys like you, correcting their mistakes. Thanks for keeping me so busy young man. One can only hope that when you’re my age, you’ll be able to be as lucky
I guess I have a question. Why tape the butt joint seam? Like factory edges come slanted to fit tape even. What is the benefit of putting tape down? Doesn't that just build up the edge that is already the same thickness of the wall?
Maybe it's just me, but anytime i've immediately coated a fresh paper tape joint with still wet taping mud underneath it, the tape will bubble, unless i coat the fresh taped joint and scrape it clean, you ever have issues like that with coating a buttjoint like that and then immediately coating it again. Maybe you're removing 90 percent of the topping compound and i'm leaving too much on a fresh tape joint. I don't know, something i've noticed over the years
I actually have never had that problem and have taped and immediately coated repeatedly without any issues. I'm trying to imagine why that would occur and can't come up with anything.
Hey David, I'm glad that the info. has been helpful! Keep us on your list, our goal is to make Drywallinstruction.com the most comprehensive drywall website on the net!
Can I ask a question? (I'm going to): Do you always mix out of box or do you ever use mud straight from the bucket? Sometimes it seems too thick out of the bucket. Thanks
David Mitchell Once you have buckets it's easier and less expensive to buy boxes. Mud varies in consistency in the bucket and the box. I add water when needed (see "mixing taping mud" video) but for coating you can use it straight out of the box sometimes. Remember that when you add water it will shrink more.
You're exactly right that most believe it's not possible. I've been doing small taping jobs for years and have never had a problem when taping with AP and immediately following with a heavy coat of topping. This forum is great for added perspectives, I'd love to hear from someone who had a problem when doing so.
If you use a bag mix like 45 or 90 min, those dry and harden even submerged in water. Once they turn gray that's usually when I go with pro form topping. Dries like a champ.
Hi, kind of irrelevant to the video but you do mention it. So do you ever use the mud in the yellow box? The one specifically for taping? Or do you find that the all purpose is better? And if so, why?
looks great, thanks for posting! someone told me that i should make a small 45 degree cut on each edge of the butt joint so the mud has somewhere to go and grab. but here you did not do that. i'm confused. also, no wet tape. does that make a huge difference?
Thanks for the video! Would love to hear any thoughts you have on butt joints for repairs (imperfect joints, and joining new drywall to textured/painted existing drywall)
How bout a bed joint. I'm a carpenter and drywall finishing is still hard for me after all these years. Been looking for some tips on bed joints but all I find are but joint videos could we make a bed joint video. Thanks
I was taught to put all purpose as the first coat. Example on a buttoning- tape with all purpose, then I coat all purpose and sometimes 2 coats topping. I’ve seen a few videos now where people just go directly to topping. I’m curious why you don’t use all purpose for first coat besides the sanding difference? Thank you. Great video
Sounds like you are doing more costs than really needed but if they are nice thin coats there is nothing wrong with what you are doing...thin coats dry fast
I've watched a number too and have found them helpful and informative - especially thankful for pointing out what other video's or even the 'experts' at the super-discount stores often say, that is just not in our best interest. Question: Do you like to have cut or butt ends length-wise along the ceiling corner edges rather than let two (one ceiling - one wall) tapered edges meet? Seldom do we get a ceiling exactly x-sheets wide, so if it does not add another seam do you prefer to cut the tapers off along the wall when practicable?
I'm so glad they've been helpful. It's great when you can use the tapered edge but you're right, a lot of times you end up cutting off the factory edge. As far as wall to ceiling goes, ceiling always hangs first and then if you're hanging your rock on the wall horizontally you hang the top half first so the majority of the time you'll have a tapered edge to work with. Good luck to you!
I'm having a tough time with intersections, I'm guessing the best way would be to mud one seam let dry, then mud the other seam intersecting through it... Ugh time and patience I suppose.
Mr if you're not using hot set you are not supossed to coat your join untill is dry cause after a couple of weeks it's painted and is 100% dry is gona shrink and look like shit.
I say that 24" is sufficient. Remember that what you're trying to accomplish is that when you look down the wall you don't see a noticeable hump. You can always go wider if necessary.
The real way is to put your knife in the center of the tape to see how bad the butt is . Some butts need to be spread wider than others always check the center first .
I watched your bango video before watching this video can a person just do the butt joints with the banjo and then go with the wider knife on the sides do you get the same results?
You gotta explain to the rookies that when u put the tape on you cannot draw/press too hard on the knife because that will remove the mud from behind the tape that's supposed to keep the joints together
You have to push the mud out pretty hard or it wont actually be flat. If you used enough mud in the first place there will be plently there. I would know ive never jad a callback for a blister.
As long as your mud is thin enough then you can't really force enough mud out even if you used all of your strength. When people run into issues is when their mud too dry
Mud varies in consistency when shipped but yes most of the time you can use it straight from the bucket. Remember that anytime you add water it will increase shrinkage when drying.
Maybe a correction should be made to your video. You say first that you are coating the seam with taping mud, but in your summary you say you put the tape on with all purpose?
You seem by your title to know what you're doing. Could you please explain the goods or bads to putting the tape on one way or the other ? Please don't tell me that the crease sticks out a long way.
Well ...... while installing, and finishing over 1500 miles of drywall tape, I have learned quite a bit about the proper and better ways of going about it. These days, I find quite a bit of value in my knowledge base.
1WallBoardsman well share that knowledge or move along? Why bother even commenting anything if you won't. Telling someone something and being able to do it are two different things no offense original poster. I've hired Labour's that been told and showed how to do there task and are just useless haha.
A common belief is that you have to wait for the tape to dry before coating. I personally have always coated right after taping and have never had any problem. Be sure to tape with all-purpose and coat with topping! Check out our progress @ Drywallinstruction.com!
A lot of places aren't selling it now and are only offering lightweight all-purpose. I can still purchase it at Home Depot and Lowes and my drywall supply businesses.
Giovani Giorgos depending what country your from. In Canada we have the different compounds including my favorite sheet to 20, 45, 90 hahah then you have your taping compound among the finishing coat. I believe where I buy from rona the use CGC
"Topping" in Eastern Canada would be anything "Lightweight" such as the green (ultralight) and purple (dust control) tubs from CGC. I believe in other parts of the country names/products vary. The ultralight I use direct from the tub, the dust control I thin a little with water depending.
You can but it is worse to sand, and shrinks more due to the higher amount of glue in the mix. You could thin it down but then may need multiple coats to get the same finish.
Not sure what you mean about one joint being installed before the other but respectfully disagree on the need to wait for the tape to dry. Have coated wet tape for over 20 years and have never had an issue. Thanks for watching though!
@@drywallinstruction1766 respectfully that joint over time can be sticking out. You don't know cause I'm the person who comes to people's homes and fixes it. I've done jobs for huge company's and that right there isn't the right way. Sorry but your 20 years was a waste.
I'll have to agree to disagree. Again, I've never seen evidence of a "joint sticking out" because of coating over wet tape and I've been in the repair industry for 28 years. Good luck to you though!
They say "Butts, Flats/bevels then corners", personally i've done it always without an issue. Obviously paper over paper creates a slightly larger hump to feather out, if you can stop short/tight to the existing tape then that eliminates that slight bump. Actually having a wet substance on top makes the drying better. as opposed to having your wet underneath the tape and the top part of the tape dry. The dry part will suck the moisture from the compound quicker. I've read/watched/asked pros and got a different answer each time. Again, i glue the tape down with the mud then do a skim over the top to "wet" the outside of the tape surface. never had an issue. I've even coated directly over without a problem. I'm not a pro, just a handy DIY'er who manages property.
@@drywallinstruction1766 if you block over wet tape you will get a lot of shrinkage and will have to do a heavy skim coat. We all have blocked wet tape from time to time but it is NOT the correct way to finish drywall. If you want to do a small area faster then I recommend using EZ Sand which will set up faster allowing you to apply the next coat with minimal shrinkage.
Mitch Wilcox I'm a painter plasterer myself, from Newfoundland, I do things similar to you and find it refreshing that someone is showing proper form . Not just mesh tape for speed lol
Awesome video, this is the best how to on butt joints I've seen yet. You can tell by the way you handle your tools you're a real pro. I've seen many drywall videos where the person can barely handle a 6.
Thanks for the feedback Anthony!
Listened to my old man holler at me for 30 years building houses and you just taught me how to butt joint my ceiling in 4 min. Thanks!
Glad to help!
Not only did it help, but it was perfect instruction. I've asked this question about what to do with butt joints for at least 30 years. (I only do it once in a blue moon) NO one has ever been able to answer the question, even at the suppliers. Thanks!
As a homeowner that has dealt with fighting mud and sanding butt joint and new sheetrock to existing painted drywall this video was a great tutorial for my latest repair. Thanks!
Great job . Clean lines . A trowel will be easier on your wrist in the regards to pressure when you feather the edges ....but it doesn’t matter how you do it, it’s how it looks when it’s done! Great video my man
Best video I've seen on drywall joints. I expect my next work to come out better with less effort!
This is the best instruction on butt joints...wish I would have seen this earlier!
Totally agree. I've seen a couple of them and this is absolutely perfect. Even though I'm a hawk and troweller, this is technically perfect :)
No doubt the best method on youtube. No messing about like the other guys. ***************
Great will try your method tomorrow.....I've been fighting the hump in the middle.
Nice video. I have been doing more drywall work for my customers and found this to be very helpful and informative.
Glad it was helpful!
Mitch, compound recommendation question: So where I live we can mostly get USG products from the big box stores. For a diy'er project that i feel i did a very nice fit up job hanging the drywall boards with very little gaps, nothing over 1/8 inch gap to fill, Would you recommend using in order: (1) All purpose compound for taping & screw covering. (2) Plus 3 compound for each additional coat after taping all purpose is dry? thanks!
That sounds like a great plan to me!
Mitch l do repair work for a living. Spot on brother! People try to re invent the wheel. Great simple to the fact jack video.
Did you put tape on backwards?
I've watched several of your videos and they are helpful. Thanks.
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback!
Thanks for the tips. I am one of those guys who has used the fiber tape on many jobs, I think because when I first started I would get bubbles in the paper tape> Also I tend to take on big projects only every couple years. I am about to take on my own new home. I think I will break away from my own ways and attempt at the paper. Thanks for all your tips.
You're welcome. Good luck with your project!
Nothing wrong with glass mesh, you just have to use setting compound for the first coat.
I cut a 45 degree angle and only half way through on both sheets, butt the two sheets together (like welding two sheets of metal when welding a seamless joint) and that way you can sand flush, BUT do this with two application of compound, because compound will not set up inside if it is 3/8 thick or more with one spreading...paper tape seems thinner
is this guy related to briansmobile1? Holy moly, the voice is exactly the same. Ya know, cause people that are related have similar voices. OK, so they don't, but still, it is amazing thing how unique and exact. Best thing that happened this week! Really make this mudding thing look easy. Has to be a whole slew of people that watch this and then go and try it and come back and watch it and go try it again and cuss. You've done this a couple times, eh?
No relation to Briansmobile1😏. I'm glad you enjoyed the video and best of luck on your project!
why not using hot mud? or is not necessary if i use tape?
i heard that is neccesary use hot mud if i am using mesh tape
Mitch, you are the man! Im drywalling for the 1st time and so far its coming out great. Im about half done, finishing up taping/mudding now, sanding is next. Thanks for the great videos.
You're welcome and congrats on your project. Helping people succeed at something I find great satisfaction in is the main purpose of this project.
Your pretty good man. I've painted for 12 years now and whenever I have to skim coat walls I always struggle. Takes lots of practice to be efficient
Vic&Vanessa Bezak his work is ok im 17 and im a professional I’ve been finishing houses since i was 15 the guys i work w will clown his work
ㅇ려ㅗㅊ초ㅗㅌ쳐쳐도애ㅔㅏㅗㄷ양8ㅗㅓㅗㅇ어오야ㅓ효여
Israel Lopez for real. Not impressive at all
@@israellopez6487 and I’ve been making a nice living off of guys like you, correcting their mistakes. Thanks for keeping me so busy young man. One can only hope that when you’re my age, you’ll be able to be as lucky
I guess I have a question. Why tape the butt joint seam? Like factory edges come slanted to fit tape even. What is the benefit of putting tape down? Doesn't that just build up the edge that is already the same thickness of the wall?
All seams have to be taped or they will crack.
Maybe it's just me, but anytime i've immediately coated a fresh paper tape joint with still wet taping mud underneath it, the tape will bubble, unless i coat the fresh taped joint and scrape it clean, you ever have issues like that with coating a buttjoint like that and then immediately coating it again. Maybe you're removing 90 percent of the topping compound and i'm leaving too much on a fresh tape joint. I don't know, something i've noticed over the years
I actually have never had that problem and have taped and immediately coated repeatedly without any issues. I'm trying to imagine why that would occur and can't come up with anything.
Clearly a pro. Thanks.
Hello Mitch. I wish I'd seen this years ago. My home projects have become less time consuming and I sleep better.
Hey David, I'm glad that the info. has been helpful! Keep us on your list, our goal is to make Drywallinstruction.com the most comprehensive drywall website on the net!
Can I ask a question? (I'm going to): Do you always mix out of box or do you ever use mud straight from the bucket? Sometimes it seems too thick out of the bucket.
Thanks
David Mitchell Once you have buckets it's easier and less expensive to buy boxes. Mud varies in consistency in the bucket and the box. I add water when needed (see "mixing taping mud" video) but for coating you can use it straight out of the box sometimes. Remember that when you add water it will shrink more.
Do you need to left the tape dry first before applying second coat ??
Never used topping on cover passes. Humm. Is this gonna be weaker?
Topping has been used forever and has not had an issue with strength.
Prefilling your joints with premix mud will end up cracking over time.
First coat should be a mix of sheetrock 90, otherwise you have no strength
Straight to the point...Love it!
Is it ok to add that much mud on the first coat? Most all let the base coat dry before building up over the tape. Just wondering
You're exactly right that most believe it's not possible. I've been doing small taping jobs for years and have never had a problem when taping with AP and immediately following with a heavy coat of topping. This forum is great for added perspectives, I'd love to hear from someone who had a problem when doing so.
I prefer to let tape dry before topping if it's a small job I bed the tape with hot mud go take a brake then come back and top it
If you use a bag mix like 45 or 90 min, those dry and harden even submerged in water. Once they turn gray that's usually when I go with pro form topping. Dries like a champ.
I have watched many of your videos twice and taking notes. Thanks for all the help.
I'm so glad they've been helpful, check out our progress @ Drywallinstruction.com!
ㅗㄱ더3ㅓ러더3ㅐ0어ㅠ처듀어유유ㅠ듀애ㅐㅓ듚ㅇ오ㅠ
Hi, kind of irrelevant to the video but you do mention it. So do you ever use the mud in the yellow box? The one specifically for taping? Or do you find that the all purpose is better? And if so, why?
I have not used the taping mud, I just haven't had a need. AP has met my needs.
looks great, thanks for posting!
someone told me that i should make a small 45 degree cut on each edge of the butt joint so the mud has somewhere to go and grab.
but here you did not do that.
i'm confused.
also, no wet tape. does that make a huge difference?
Sorry for the delay. I have never done either and have never had a problem. The trick is thinning your taping mud.
Thanks for the video! Would love to hear any thoughts you have on butt joints for repairs (imperfect joints, and joining new drywall to textured/painted existing drywall)
How bout a bed joint. I'm a carpenter and drywall finishing is still hard for me after all these years. Been looking for some tips on bed joints but all I find are but joint videos could we make a bed joint video. Thanks
I was taught to put all purpose as the first coat. Example on a buttoning- tape with all purpose, then I coat all purpose and sometimes 2 coats topping. I’ve seen a few videos now where people just go directly to topping. I’m curious why you don’t use all purpose for first coat besides the sanding difference? Thank you. Great video
I see no purpose to using AP after getting the tape on but I'm sure open to ideas and understand a lot of beliefs exist.
Drywall Instruction thank you Sir. Very helpful videos
I thin down my all purpose for the 2nd coat, then skim with topping. But that is just my method and works for me.
Sounds like you are doing more costs than really needed but if they are nice thin coats there is nothing wrong with what you are doing...thin coats dry fast
Got some drywall repair tomorrow thanks for the tips
I've watched a number too and have found them helpful and informative - especially thankful for pointing out what other video's or even the 'experts' at the super-discount stores often say, that is just not in our best interest. Question: Do you like to have cut or butt ends length-wise along the ceiling corner edges rather than let two (one ceiling - one wall) tapered edges meet? Seldom do we get a ceiling exactly x-sheets wide, so if it does not add another seam do you prefer to cut the tapers off along the wall when practicable?
I'm so glad they've been helpful. It's great when you can use the tapered edge but you're right, a lot of times you end up cutting off the factory edge. As far as wall to ceiling goes, ceiling always hangs first and then if you're hanging your rock on the wall horizontally you hang the top half first so the majority of the time you'll have a tapered edge to work with. Good luck to you!
Clear and concise, thank you.
Thanks for the lesson...
How do you cut the tape with the knife so easy?!
What did you use for your first coat of mud?
After the tape is on topping is ideal, softer to sand. Where topping isn't available LITE All Purpose is the next best option.
Do you sell Good Humor Ice Cream after the show?
I'm having a tough time with intersections, I'm guessing the best way would be to mud one seam let dry, then mud the other seam intersecting through it... Ugh time and patience I suppose.
Butts first, then flats. Shouldn't have to wait long
Should always tape with taping mud as it has glue in it to help bond the tape to the paper of the drywall.
Or hot mud, I only tape with 45 or 90 minute. It's a better bond than AP and you can go right to the topping mud after an hour
Great video thanks so much
Mr if you're not using hot set you are not supossed to coat your join untill is dry cause after a couple of weeks it's painted and is 100% dry is gona shrink and look like shit.
I appreciate your opinion but after 30 yrs. of drywall I've never had that happen.
Just to be clear, what tape do you prefer?....
Paper tape, you can watch my paper vs. tape video.
Any tips or tricks on taping and floating new drywall to existing drywall with an orange peel texture?
yes I tried this with my house with fix all having troubles may need to tear all drywall out
Wtf
Sorry you did not know fix all sucks for drywall for quick patches use hot mud or all purpose and skim with topping
So is 24" usually wide enough to sufficiently cover (hide) the butt joint? Would going wider be of any benefit or just a waste of effort? Thanks.
I say that 24" is sufficient. Remember that what you're trying to accomplish is that when you look down the wall you don't see a noticeable hump. You can always go wider if necessary.
The real way is to put your knife in the center of the tape to see how bad the butt is . Some butts need to be spread wider than others always check the center first .
Hey Mitch How do you fill the void when you have factory and butt joints in Sheetrock?
I prefill any voids with either hot mud or topping, whichever I'm using on that particular job. See my prefill video. Thanks for watching!
I watched your bango video before watching this video can a person just do the butt joints with the banjo and then go with the wider knife on the sides do you get the same results?
You gotta explain to the rookies that when u put the tape on you cannot draw/press too hard on the knife because that will remove the mud from behind the tape that's supposed to keep the joints together
You have to push the mud out pretty hard or it wont actually be flat. If you used enough mud in the first place there will be plently there. I would know ive never jad a callback for a blister.
As long as your mud is thin enough then you can't really force enough mud out even if you used all of your strength. When people run into issues is when their mud too dry
Great video. I often found it difficult to get rid of that hump.
Thanks, I'm glad it was helpful.
Yes it was. that lump has given me the blues.
So, topping is good straight from the bucket?
Mud varies in consistency when shipped but yes most of the time you can use it straight from the bucket. Remember that anytime you add water it will increase shrinkage when drying.
I usually add some water to help feathering but its accurate to say the more water you add the more shrinkage you have
Thank you this was perfect and simply explained
You're welcome!
thanks for the video
Maybe a correction should be made to your video. You say first that you are coating the seam with taping mud, but in your summary you say you put the tape on with all purpose?
You can tape in with all purpose, it doesn't matter. You could even finish with all purpose as long as you love sanding.
If you watch my videos you'll see in "mixing taping mud" that taping mud is thinned down all purpose.
What is "topping" mud? Does it have a name? Is it a brand?
Watch the drywall joint compounds on this channel. Good luck to you!
Thanks Mitch for the video you for sure helped me out!
I don't understand at around 2:00 why he puts so much on each side. Go thicker when your going vertical but when going horizontal you need as mucg
거ㅓㄱ유유쳐ㅠ닫츠ㅗ챠ㅜ디ㅡㅡ두덩ㅊ9챧
Can you use regular masking tape or painters tape for this as well? Thanks for the cool videos!
Absolutely not.
ㄱ여려ㅗㅗㅊ초조뎌로텇ㅊ쳐도저노옹ㅌ8
I use duct tape and I never had a problem.
@@krakenwoodfloorservicemcma5975 lol
Excellent, to the point video. Thanks!!
Needs to be lik wider than that for smooth wall
What gypsum material did you use
ㅕ여여ㅗㅗㅠㅇ옅8ㅗㅇ옹온여옆ㅈㄴ너ㅗㅇ오ㅗㅗ오ㅗ토토토ㅕ오호토옽ㅎㅎㅇ오ㅕㅊㅊ
Did you just put that tape on upside down?
You seem by your title to know what you're doing. Could you please explain the goods or bads to putting the tape on one way or the other ? Please don't tell me that the crease sticks out a long way.
Well ...... while installing, and finishing over 1500 miles of drywall tape, I have learned quite a bit about the proper and better ways of going about it. These days, I find quite a bit of value in my knowledge base.
1WallBoardsman well share that knowledge or move along? Why bother even commenting anything if you won't. Telling someone something and being able to do it are two different things no offense original poster. I've hired Labour's that been told and showed how to do there task and are just useless haha.
Yeh, I noticed that also.
Yes He did, Ive been finishing for close to 30 yrs and he definitely put it on upside down. The crease CAN pucker if not installed correctly.
Do you normally coat it right after you tape it?
A common belief is that you have to wait for the tape to dry before coating. I personally have always coated right after taping and have never had any problem. Be sure to tape with all-purpose and coat with topping! Check out our progress @ Drywallinstruction.com!
Thanks
I was always told you had to wait, Im doing my fill coat right after from now on thank you sir.
You're welcome, if you haven't yet check out Drywallinstruction.com!
Where do I get topping
A lot of places aren't selling it now and are only offering lightweight all-purpose. I can still purchase it at Home Depot and Lowes and my drywall supply businesses.
Do u mix all purpose mud with water even if filling 10 in crack
ㅏ다두2ㅏ2ㅑㅌ우3ㅜ다ㅐㄷ9오2ㅟㅜㅜㅜㄷㄷ닫
I've never heard of topping......I've seen finishers add water.........you can actually purchase a topping compound?
Just googled Topping Drywall Joint Compound......been around construction most of my life.....never heard of it......what exactly is the difference?
Check out the drywall compounds videos, part 1 and 2.
Giovani Giorgos depending what country your from. In Canada we have the different compounds including my favorite sheet to 20, 45, 90 hahah then you have your taping compound among the finishing coat.
I believe where I buy from rona the use CGC
"Topping" in Eastern Canada would be anything "Lightweight" such as the green (ultralight) and purple (dust control) tubs from CGC. I believe in other parts of the country names/products vary. The ultralight I use direct from the tub, the dust control I thin a little with water depending.
Can I use all purpose as topping?
In my "Drywall Compounds" videos I explain the different types of mud and their uses.
You can but it is worse to sand, and shrinks more due to the higher amount of glue in the mix. You could thin it down but then may need multiple coats to get the same finish.
Super helpful. Thanks!
Excellent info
That joint should be installed before the other one below it. Plus you need to wait for the tape to dry before applying the next coat.
Not sure what you mean about one joint being installed before the other but respectfully disagree on the need to wait for the tape to dry. Have coated wet tape for over 20 years and have never had an issue. Thanks for watching though!
@@drywallinstruction1766 respectfully that joint over time can be sticking out. You don't know cause I'm the person who comes to people's homes and fixes it. I've done jobs for huge company's and that right there isn't the right way. Sorry but your 20 years was a waste.
I'll have to agree to disagree. Again, I've never seen evidence of a "joint sticking out" because of coating over wet tape and I've been in the repair industry for 28 years. Good luck to you though!
They say "Butts, Flats/bevels then corners", personally i've done it always without an issue. Obviously paper over paper creates a slightly larger hump to feather out, if you can stop short/tight to the existing tape then that eliminates that slight bump. Actually having a wet substance on top makes the drying better. as opposed to having your wet underneath the tape and the top part of the tape dry. The dry part will suck the moisture from the compound quicker. I've read/watched/asked pros and got a different answer each time. Again, i glue the tape down with the mud then do a skim over the top to "wet" the outside of the tape surface. never had an issue. I've even coated directly over without a problem. I'm not a pro, just a handy DIY'er who manages property.
@@drywallinstruction1766 if you block over wet tape you will get a lot of shrinkage and will have to do a heavy skim coat. We all have blocked wet tape from time to time but it is NOT the correct way to finish drywall. If you want to do a small area faster then I recommend using EZ Sand which will set up faster allowing you to apply the next coat with minimal shrinkage.
One coat Johnny!
Great video! 🔵👍🔵
Thanks for checking us out!
Thank you!
good vid cheers
Nice and succinct.
thanks!!
You're Welcome!
This confirms it...I am the best.
Nice :) thanks for the video 🛠
Love it!!
great job!
Thanks Jim!
Mitch Wilcox I'm a painter plasterer myself, from Newfoundland, I do things similar to you and find it refreshing that someone is showing proper form . Not just mesh tape for speed lol
Thanks Jim for checking in, it's awesome to hear from people in far off places. I'm glad you're enjoying the videos!
Best
Not bubbles thk u so much
You're welcome, thanks for watching!
he put the tape on backwards...
woow thanks
Good video but the camera should have been much closer..
U put the tape wrong side up
👍
Pinche vato u not cleaning your knife fully is ticking me off
Too far from the camera cant really see what your doing or hear you.
Go live bro
ㅇ오ㅗㅇ오ㅗ촟ㅍㄴ턍0ㅑㅠㄴ투토ㅗ노오ㅗㅌ오ㅗ옹
No offence but I could do better you left too much mud on the tape
Unfortunately you can't spell!
👍✊
Be careful who you learn from
Ya I don't coat over wet tape on a quick job I'll bed tape with hot mud take a break the top coat
Hes done it before but eh
this should be in mexican or polish
👍new Subbie here