I did wind up using, Minwax floor paste wax on this. It worked out great! I used my drill buffer to apply the wax. Looks and feels great in the hands! 😀
I used Minwax Tung Oil on a bidrseye maple neck about 20 years ago. A fellow builder had a formula I followed. The neck came out super smooth. It called for a wiped on coat, wipe off excess. Let dry over night. I did it for three days. Sanded the third coat of finish with 0000 wool. Wipe on final coat. I would use gloves now. Some of the dryers used in the finish are not very safe when wet.
Glad it worked out for you! Yep, one should use gloves with any product. I am a retired printing press OP, used so many chemicals in my day. My hands have paid the price for not using gloves to protect my hands. U have a few guitars that I did about 20 years ago using Minwax tung oil finish. They still look great! Thanks for your input!
I’m going to use some soft denim for application, figure it should work grate at not soaking up all the product, but also being smooth as to not ruff up any grain
@@noahkostman6049 I used to use T-shirts cut up. I started using these cloth like paper towels. For me they work out well. I don’t get any dust from them at all. I get more dust from the air. lol! I always do a color sand and buff. Makes it come out so much better. Thanks for your input. If you can let me know how it works out for you.
Like your style and just subscribed. The way you take your time with the video is a constant reminder that taking your time when you work is the way to get the best results. Haven't used Minwax Tung Oil before (most of my wood finishing has been polyurethane over stain), but I am working on my first guitar - mahogany back and ambrosia maple front, and I am really looking forward to seeing how following your technique turns out. One question: how much vapor does the thin-coat process produce after cleanup, as in curing overnight? I am in Maine, it is the end of January, and I really don't want to leave windows open all night - but I also don't want to wait until spring to finish this because I am worried about inhaling this stuff. Appreciate the guidance!
I put all my used rags in the trash outside when I am done for the day. Letting it cure indoors is not all that bad. Done it a few times. But I like to use some kind of mask when applying it in a small room. I also like running a fan. I am doing a guitar right now. But I am going to wait for the weather here to change, so I can finish it out in the shop. I like to work in the shop more than in my house. I have put the finish on in the house before. But you might have to put up with the wife. LOL! But the smell doesn't last that long. Un like lacquer, Poly and others. Again, put the rags you use out in the trash. That will help a lot. I used to get excited and not want to wait on things. But these days, I am not in that big of a hurry. The build I am working on right now, I did try and rush it. But I wound up now have to wait for the weather to get better here. It's been in the teens here. I have no way to heat the shop. So I have to wait. I have other project that are also waiting. So, I am working on computers while waiting. They can be as frustrating as guitar building at times! HA! But yes, take your time. Try and get 3 coats on in a day, let it dry and reapply the next day until you get the look you want. It will get there. And really it only takes me about 4 to 5 days of applying the finish to get a glossy look. Once it's cured in 24 hr. Then you can color sand and buff it out and wax it, and you're done! There is no waiting around for weeks on end to get going with a project. I use the same stuff of furniture I make. Works out great! Good luck on your project. If there is anything I can help with, let me know. The Minwax tung oil finish is easy to work with and is forgiving in a lot of ways.
Wow! Your prompt reply is much appreciated! Yeah, my shop for now is the garage, also unheated, which is why I was asking. By the way, I have been working on computers for decades. If there is anything you want to run by me, let me know. But how did you know the wife is a neat freak??? ;-) @@StealthGuitar-mk3el
@@ehuudritzelaar5535 I try to respond back and as quickly as I can. I too have been messing around with computers for a long time. I am in need of a new laptop. But just can’t afford one. So I keep on patching up my old ones. One is around 15 years old. The other one is about 10 or 12 bought it used 6 years ago. I did get me a m2 mini Mac last year and that is what I use to make my videos on. Before the m2 I was using my iPhone. lol I think a lot of wives are not only a clean freak but they are also tuned into the smells. lol! Check out my other videos. Thanks for subscribing!
@@ehuudritzelaar5535 I try to respond as quickly as I can. I and computers go back a long ways as well. But I am always learning things. I am self-taught. Started out back when dos and when Linux was young. LOL! Built custom computers for a long while. But got out of it for many years. Just picked it back up this past winter to give me something else to do. It's a cool hobby. I still use Linux today. It has become so much user-friendly over the years. I don't use MS anymore. LOL the wife, a clean freak? So is mine! But I have to say I am too! Drives me nuts when I am working and I get too messy! HA! If you haven't done so, take a look at my other videos. Tell me what you think! Thanks for subscribing!
Well, like I say in the video, I was not going for a non grain look. But it can be done. Just like a spray job, one would have to use a grain filler. With spray on lacquer or poly there is a long wait time as will. This took me only 4 days to do. You can't get there that fast with spray on. Even with spray cans without a grain filler, you will still see the grain. Spry can clear is also known for shrinkage and cracking. I just had one of my spray jobs crack all over the place. (Lacquer and cold do not play well) Never have had the Minwax tung oil finish crack or peel off or blister. I have had that happen with spray can clear and paint. But the guitar is better than it looks on the video. I didn't get any pictures of it after I applied some Minwax floor wax on it. That made a huge change in the way it looks. I sold the guitar, so I cannot get any pictures of how it looked before I sold it.
I used it the same way you do. It would not let me apply it heavier without dragging and attracting a lot of trash into the surface. I got very nice results with walnut veneer on my speakers.
Thanks for the comment. A lot of times it is a trial on error to get the finish we want. You are right about putting it on too heavy. Glad it all worked out for you.
2 to 3 hr. between coats. After the last one, I let it set all night. Then do a lite sanding to knock off dust and to help smooth it out some. Then apply 3 more in the same way. I don't put on thick coats. Nice even thin coats work the best. Keep at it until you get the look you are wanting. Let it sit for 24 hr. Then color sand, buff, then wax it. Should be good to go.
How many coats you think would be required for a more satin type of finish? Building my first guitar in a very long time and I was using Formbys but it’s been discontinued.
It really depends on how much shine you want. I find that in most cases 8 to 10 coats if you want that glossy look. I did one that came out glossy after 5 coats. I put it on over paint. But please like all things try it out before using on your project. Sometimes products don't play well together.
Hey, after looking at what you asked me. LOL! I would say about 4 to 5 coats to get a satin look. What I do is I use 0000 steel wool and go over the project once the last coat is color sanded with a 1000 grit or more wet dry. I go over it with the 0000 to make it look smoother. If you look at the guitar in the watermark, I did that one that way, plus some others. I may do a video at some point and show some of the other guitars I did in a stain look.
@StealthGuitar-mk3el Thank you very much for this tutorial and for this response in particular. I am researching ways I can refinish a walnut gun stock, and I may try this Minwax product. I will attempt a satin finish. I just watched another excellent tutorial wherein a very experienced woodworker who apprenticed under another very experienced woodworker uses the master's formula: 16 parts Minwax Tung Oil to 1 part urethane for durability. He uses the straight Minwax for the first few coats and then the mixture. Me being somewhat lazy and having seen the success of your method and knowing how unforgiving urethane can be, will likely stick with the straight Miniwax. Thanks again!
@@MichaelWhite-cx4hoYes, I know of that approach. I have not tried that yet. If you can, please let me know how it works out for you. I would interested to find out. And you are welcome!
Many don;t know that Formby's contains NO TUNG OIL. It is actually a wiping polymer varnish. That is why he ALWAYS called it Homer Formby's Tung Oil Finish.
Before I buffed it I used 1200 and 1500. I think I wound up using 1200. It’s been a while since I did this. Once I buffed it out I used Minwax paste wax on it and used a buffer to buff the wax. Came out with a hard glassy finish.
@@realville4042 I use 400 then I take a look at it to see if there are any deep scratches. If everything looks good, then I apply the finish. Sometimes I will go to 800. But no more than 800. Sand with the grain. Sanding with the grain will help to hide scratches from the sand paper. Any heavy scratches will show up in the finish. Hope this helps.
I did wind up using, Minwax floor paste wax on this. It worked out great! I used my drill buffer to apply the wax. Looks and feels great in the hands! 😀
I used Minwax Tung Oil on a bidrseye maple neck about 20 years ago. A fellow builder had a formula I followed. The neck came out super smooth. It called for a wiped on coat, wipe off excess. Let dry over night. I did it for three days. Sanded the third coat of finish with 0000 wool. Wipe on final coat. I would use gloves now. Some of the dryers used in the finish are not very safe when wet.
Glad it worked out for you! Yep, one should use gloves with any product. I am a retired printing press OP, used so many chemicals in my day. My hands have paid the price for not using gloves to protect my hands.
U have a few guitars that I did about 20 years ago using Minwax tung oil finish. They still look great!
Thanks for your input!
I’m going to use some soft denim for application, figure it should work grate at not soaking up all the product, but also being smooth as to not ruff up any grain
@@noahkostman6049 I used to use T-shirts cut up.
I started using these cloth like paper towels.
For me they work out well.
I don’t get any dust from them at all.
I get more dust from the air. lol!
I always do a color sand and buff.
Makes it come out so much better.
Thanks for your input. If you can let me know how it works out for you.
@@StealthGuitar-mk3el will do, thanks :D
Like your style and just subscribed. The way you take your time with the video is a constant reminder that taking your time when you work is the way to get the best results. Haven't used Minwax Tung Oil before (most of my wood finishing has been polyurethane over stain), but I am working on my first guitar - mahogany back and ambrosia maple front, and I am really looking forward to seeing how following your technique turns out. One question: how much vapor does the thin-coat process produce after cleanup, as in curing overnight? I am in Maine, it is the end of January, and I really don't want to leave windows open all night - but I also don't want to wait until spring to finish this because I am worried about inhaling this stuff. Appreciate the guidance!
I put all my used rags in the trash outside when I am done for the day. Letting it cure indoors is not all that bad. Done it a few times. But I like to use some kind of mask when applying it in a small room. I also like running a fan.
I am doing a guitar right now. But I am going to wait for the weather here to change, so I can finish it out in the shop.
I like to work in the shop more than in my house.
I have put the finish on in the house before. But you might have to put up with the wife. LOL! But the smell doesn't last that long. Un like lacquer, Poly and others. Again, put the rags you use out in the trash. That will help a lot.
I used to get excited and not want to wait on things. But these days, I am not in that big of a hurry. The build I am working on right now, I did try and rush it. But I wound up now have to wait for the weather to get better here. It's been in the teens here. I have no way to heat the shop. So I have to wait. I have other project that are also waiting.
So, I am working on computers while waiting. They can be as frustrating as guitar building at times! HA!
But yes, take your time. Try and get 3 coats on in a day, let it dry and reapply the next day until you get the look you want. It will get there. And really it only takes me about 4 to 5 days of applying the finish to get a glossy look. Once it's cured in 24 hr. Then you can color sand and buff it out and wax it, and you're done! There is no waiting around for weeks on end to get going with a project. I use the same stuff of furniture I make. Works out great!
Good luck on your project. If there is anything I can help with, let me know. The Minwax tung oil finish is easy to work with and is forgiving in a lot of ways.
Wow! Your prompt reply is much appreciated! Yeah, my shop for now is the garage, also unheated, which is why I was asking. By the way, I have been working on computers for decades. If there is anything you want to run by me, let me know. But how did you know the wife is a neat freak??? ;-)
@@StealthGuitar-mk3el
@@ehuudritzelaar5535 I try to respond back and as quickly as I can.
I too have been messing around with computers for a long time.
I am in need of a new laptop. But just can’t afford one. So I keep on patching up my old ones. One is around 15 years old. The other one is about 10 or 12 bought it used 6 years ago.
I did get me a m2 mini Mac last year and that is what I use to make my videos on.
Before the m2 I was using my iPhone.
lol I think a lot of wives are not only a clean freak but they are also tuned into the smells. lol!
Check out my other videos.
Thanks for subscribing!
@@ehuudritzelaar5535 I try to respond as quickly as I can. I and computers go back a long ways as well. But I am always learning things. I am self-taught. Started out back when dos and when Linux was young. LOL! Built custom computers for a long while. But got out of it for many years. Just picked it back up this past winter to give me something else to do. It's a cool hobby. I still use Linux today. It has become so much user-friendly over the years. I don't use MS anymore.
LOL the wife, a clean freak? So is mine! But I have to say I am too! Drives me nuts when I am working and I get too messy! HA!
If you haven't done so, take a look at my other videos. Tell me what you think! Thanks for subscribing!
I still c open grain - not at all like a spray job that u can now do with cans - mayb I’m just seeing the grain because it’s clear
Well, like I say in the video, I was not going for a non grain look. But it can be done. Just like a spray job, one would have to use a grain filler. With spray on lacquer or poly there is a long wait time as will. This took me only 4 days to do. You can't get there that fast with spray on. Even with spray cans without a grain filler, you will still see the grain. Spry can clear is also known for shrinkage and cracking. I just had one of my spray jobs crack all over the place. (Lacquer and cold do not play well) Never have had the Minwax tung oil finish crack or peel off or blister. I have had that happen with spray can clear and paint.
But the guitar is better than it looks on the video. I didn't get any pictures of it after I applied some Minwax floor wax on it. That made a huge change in the way it looks. I sold the guitar, so I cannot get any pictures of how it looked before I sold it.
I used it the same way you do. It would not let me apply it heavier without dragging and attracting a lot of trash into the surface. I got very nice results with walnut veneer on my speakers.
Thanks for the comment.
A lot of times it is a trial on error to get the finish we want.
You are right about putting it on too heavy.
Glad it all worked out for you.
😊Three coats in one day? How long inbetween coats?
2 to 3 hr. between coats. After the last one, I let it set all night. Then do a lite sanding to knock off dust and to help smooth it out some. Then apply 3 more in the same way.
I don't put on thick coats. Nice even thin coats work the best. Keep at it until you get the look you are wanting. Let it sit for 24 hr. Then color sand, buff, then wax it. Should be good to go.
Thanks for the video 👍
Thanks for watching!
How many coats you think would be required for a more satin type of finish? Building my first guitar in a very long time and I was using Formbys but it’s been discontinued.
It really depends on how much shine you want. I find that in most cases 8 to 10 coats if you want that glossy look. I did one that came out glossy after 5 coats. I put it on over paint. But please like all things try it out before using on your project. Sometimes products don't play well together.
Hey, after looking at what you asked me. LOL! I would say about 4 to 5 coats to get a satin look. What I do is I use 0000 steel wool and go over the project once the last coat is color sanded with a 1000 grit or more wet dry. I go over it with the 0000 to make it look smoother. If you look at the guitar in the watermark, I did that one that way, plus some others. I may do a video at some point and show some of the other guitars I did in a stain look.
@StealthGuitar-mk3el Thank you very much for this tutorial and for this response in particular. I am researching ways I can refinish a walnut gun stock, and I may try this Minwax product. I will attempt a satin finish. I just watched another excellent tutorial wherein a very experienced woodworker who apprenticed under another very experienced woodworker uses the master's formula: 16 parts Minwax Tung Oil to 1 part urethane for durability. He uses the straight Minwax for the first few coats and then the mixture. Me being somewhat lazy and having seen the success of your method and knowing how unforgiving urethane can be, will likely stick with the straight Miniwax. Thanks again!
@@MichaelWhite-cx4hoYes, I know of that approach. I have not tried that yet. If you can, please let me know how it works out for you. I would interested to find out.
And you are welcome!
Many don;t know that Formby's contains NO TUNG OIL. It is actually a wiping polymer varnish. That is why he ALWAYS called it Homer Formby's Tung Oil Finish.
Good video Chaz! Was this a re-edit?
Yes it is.
What grit did you sand to?
Before I buffed it I used 1200 and 1500.
I think I wound up using 1200.
It’s been a while since I did this.
Once I buffed it out I used Minwax paste wax on it and used a buffer to buff the wax.
Came out with a hard glassy finish.
I meant what grit did you go down to before you started with the oil.
@@realville4042 I use 400 then I take a look at it to see if there are any deep scratches. If everything looks good, then I apply the finish. Sometimes I will go to 800. But no more than 800. Sand with the grain. Sanding with the grain will help to hide scratches from the sand paper. Any heavy scratches will show up in the finish. Hope this helps.
On thank you!!
@@realville4042 you are welcome.
Do you do drums?
I have never done drums.
But the process would be the same.
@@StealthGuitar-mk3el sure is pretty
Thanks @@morgunstyles7253
@@morgunstyles7253 Thanks!