We built a full ICF home two years ago. I used Fastfoot attached to the bottom row of the ICF using levellers attached to the ICF. Did a mono pour. It worked fantastic.
"I'm gonna go ahead and drop that". That was a great line. love your videos. I've been thinking of doing an ICF home and you are making me feel more confident about my being able to do it. Thank you
I have been a fan of fastfoot over 10 years. On construction sites have used reinforcing plastic to do the same thing stapling every 2~3 inches for 8 years.
Attention to good details is your strong suit. That tip on not nailing the cross supports to the level screed boards is a jewel. It's way easier and quicker to screed level. And the finish looks so much better. Keep it up!
Love to see you start with excavation, stake placement, and how you put in the ICFs. Then it would be great to see you do all this then the pour. Thanks.
it's a good system. I use it almost exclusively on my ICF jobs. I recommend as stated in the video not doing a monopour as your first job. If you are inexperienced with pumping concrete you will find it moves if not poured properly, and there are enough things to worry about without adding more.
Thanks! Glad you guys approve! I feel like I rushed it out a bit since weather and well drillers held up finishing an icf pool build I was going to post lol. Got to point out how awesome the sewn corners are and how much time and material they save! Ps, I hadn’t seen your fast foot pier pads, those look super cool, I’m going to tell Daryl to order some!
Another very informative video! I’ve been trying to learn all I can about ICF construction so I can make more informed decisions when choosing and interacting with a contractor. I would love if you could share some information on the types of questions you might want to ask a contractor when building or designing an ICF home. I’d also love some information on what sort of things to avoid when designing an ICF home. Thank you again!
It’s not that bad to pull off…. We get a little fancy with the mix to plug up the footer, plasticizer to add temporary fluidity and calcium to firm it up quick…. Not to the whole order, just enough to firm up the mud in the bag! I’ve poured upwards of 19’ on top of Monopour at one time and the other guy BBC we talked about has done 24’…. So doing a normal Basement wall is pretty straight forward!
@@all3pools that's great to hear! I'm very interested in doing this myself. Would also save a step with rebar! Would it be smart to bend a small 90 in the bottom end of your vertical so you don't poke your liner? Or do you do it first and just wire it to the side of a web?
I would love to see a video of an actual build with this, using below-grade footings, and pouring the slab at the same time. One day I'd love to build a house in a rural location with these building techniques, and there have got to be cost savings in only having the concrete pump have to come out once.
Great video! Having a capillary break under the footing is one of the things a lot of people neglect to do. Very important IMO. Any plans on doing a video on the monopour system? I've been debating trying it for quite sometime now. It's seems like a good way to save cost on pump trucks and save me time on my jobs.
+1. .. The FastFoot footings pouch is the way to go ..... FastFoot footer pouch directly attached to an ICF ala the adjustable legs is a "game-changer".
Ya I had one laying on the ground in front of me and forgot to show it... we used to have to do some fancy origami to make corners that are up a good bit of run, then they came out with a sewn 90 degree corner and it’s life changing! You can see it right in the front page at fab forms website
What are your thoughts on Helix rebar replacement? We are building an ICF home soon and we are trying to find a ready-mix contractor that will work with us to do the walls and slab with the Helix product. We are completely sold on Helix but the concrete suppliers are definitely old-school when it comes to anything new. We want to do a monopour with the first couple of courses of ICF to prevent a cold joint betweenthe footing. We have a little time to figure it out so that's a good thing.
I was gonna ask a similar question to Patrick McDonald’s...Could you and or how could you combine the form-a-drain system with the waterproofed MONOfooting🤔🧐🤨. I understand from the contractors point it would create more work but in the end I think it would create a better foundation therefore a better product
Once you remove the 2 x 4 framing from the footer, is the fastfoot material bonded with the concrete? In my area the below grade ICF walls need a termite and water barrier. Can you simply trim the excess fastfoot material and them apply a peel and stick termite & water barrier from the walls -- over the top of the footings -- and onto the fastfoot material on the sides of the footing?
Tempted by the mono-pour, but I feel like the bag and the little legs would be subject to horizontal movement. I like the idea of spray foaming the blocks to a solid footing chalked with a straight line. Are my concerns founded?
How do you stop the footing/walls from shifting during the pour? In my head the concrete is going to push and pull those walls anywhere it wants... no?
Gold! thanks Aaron and Christina ... new to this arena but I have seen the icf cut out where the legs attach to the fastening strip.. is that unnecessary step? appreciate you guys :D
question, can u use this product when pouring a basement floor. If so how do you attach the rebar to the footing and it looks like it budges out from the wall when filled. I am new to this product. Thank you for your help.
So, ideally, you'd lay down the vapor barrier first, then the Fast Foot on top, then staple both to a 2x4 running length-wise? Which vapor barriers do you prefer?
Any thoughts on Form-A-Drain vs this? Fastfoot looks great, especially for a monopour, but I keep thinking having drains as part of the footer ends up with more benefits.
I have not used form a drain, nor can I speak to costs/benefits... I think it has to be considerably more but you are replacing drain pipe as well so you’d have to crunch the numbers, what I like about it is the potential radon mitigation, I’m in the ozarks and it’s a common problem on houses here... but otherwise I think I see more benefit to keeping the footing out of contact with the wet soil, at least here in Missouri, we have very karst topography and water moves laterally through the ground but a properly installed French drain is cheap and works really well if done right, but you can literally see moisture on the inside of a normal footing just wicking up into the stemwall... we do a lot of crazy stuff to our crawls these days up to spraying closed cell marine grade foam on the floor and footers and conditioning them, once you go that far you don’t absolutely need the fastfoot I suppose, but it’s so quick and easy I’ll probably always use it! You gotta love all the innovation though, annoys me so much when I see the same old dogs refusing the new tricks lol
wrong, form-a-drain does nothing to stop moisture from wicking up an icf wall. fast foot is superior especially since you can put a french drain in also with fast foot.
@@jjg1501 Thanks for your comment. How big of a problem is moisture wicking up a wall? 99.9% of footings are in contact with bare earth, right? Does Fastfoot prevent you from making an Ufer ground? Perhaps you could throw some Xypex in the footing concrete to prevent wicking.
Love the system and found there website bit don't see where to buy there products. I am in central MO so must be around here. Do you sell it or is I a local distributor? Thanks for any help.
Still need the footings to go below frost line…. In low temp areas you will have a lot deeper leg on your mono than in Missouri where our frost line is 18” but still very doable
I don’t know the official answer, some of the guys in bc that work for fab watch these so maybe they can comment, but I’ve had some around pools exposed for a long time with no visible degradation
You would need at least 3 months of day in, day out sunlight on Fastfoot for it to slightly damage its strength. If its taking you longer than two weeks for a set of footings you are in the wrong business!
In colder climates , CO , Wy, Alaska etc why not use ICF forms along with Fastfoot inside of ICF footings for additional insulation & frost protection ? ?
They have a system like that, I forget it’s name but you use foam board in lieu of forms, it’s got a web like icf you insert your foam into, looks cool and could b valuable anywhere it gets really cold, thermal breaks wherever you can whenever you can!
Would you also put the Fastfoot on the inside too then as a waterproof barrier then pour the footing ? I guess it wouldn’t hurt putting the foam on the bottom as well as the sides then too or would it compromise the footing at all ? ? Just thinking outside the box to keep the entire footing from freezing & water proof but I know it’s got to be at least 48” below grade in those type of environments. ? ?
Tar paper pier pads, stitch them together with 16 penny nails and fill them up, hillbilly but effective! That said, fast foot makes killer pier pads now too so I’m retiring the tar paper!
It’s called the Foothold , the product you mentioned . I saw it also but was concerned about a few negative comments about it on “You Tube “ but looks promising along with the Fastfoot . What’s your opinion ? ? My wife & I plan on an ICF home build in Ridgway CO but want to do it right & efficient since it will be our dream home . Thx 👍
In my climate I like the waterproofing aspect of fastfoot more than I value a thermal break below the frost line but if you could do both by running fastfoot inside the other system, win win!
I'm starting a new residential building in New Jersey area and would like some support on creating a Bill-of-Materials and sourcing them. Are you able to help.
Only issues I see with this type of footing material is the fact that you dont have a solid flat square bottom at the footing and that will lead to issues with the footing sinking in more compared to a flat bottom footing. The other issue is reflective of the last issue just talked about but the bowing out of the sides. I would rather have the regular formed footings with rectangular shape.
There is the same amount of flat with these as opposed to traditional footings…. And a square corner has nothing to do with a shape being less likely to sink, any footing can settle if placed on bad soil….
@@all3pools how is there the same amount of flat area when the bottom of the fab form footing is rounded and the sides are rounded. Thats because its not the same as a traditional footing. And yes it all depends on the type of soil and soil bearing capacity regarding how much a footing will settle but I would put money on a traditional footing compared to a fab form shown in that video cause its rounded on the bottom and sides. Its going to sink more into any soil compared to a traditional footing with flat squared bottom justdue to the shape. If you take something square and push it into say the dirt there will be more resistance and less compression into the soil. If you take that fab form footing where its rounded on the bottom and sides it will push more into the soil just due to the mear shape. Its like a pointed edge. Not to mention as well that a tradional square bottom footing wont roll on either side if the weight is more than it can support compared to the fab form footing which is rounded on the bottom. It has the potential to roll to one side cause the bottom of the footing is rounded due to it not being able to support the weight.
If you properly compacted the surface that you will be pouring on, the bottom of the footer will be flat. The sides will not be with the Fab form product. You have to make sure the plastic is touching the ground the proper width of the footer that you want. Whatever is in contact with the flat ground will be flat.
I am building a house and plan on using the ICF and Fast foot form. Have you ever poured a cantilever footing with this. My footing is going to be basically 1 foot out side and 2 foot inside. I think I can just take 2 bags and over lap them to get the extra footing on the inside. What do you think.
The fastfoot comes in widths up to at least 72”, so you may be able to make one work…. You can do what you are talking about but you will want to try to attach them in the middle a little bit if you pour really wet, it will slide out from under if it’s not fixed at least somewhat, or pour it stiff, which makes for a stronger footer anyway!
How high is the first pour if you use the legs, as in how many blocks of ICF and then how long before you pour to finished hight say on a single story rancher ?
You can generally pour as high as you need for your plan, the official answer from most block manufacturers is 12-15’ max height per pour…. That said, I know a couple contractors who exceed that when necessary and we have poured around 20’ all at one a few times
Yes one county I do work in has decided that since the footer isn’t truly in the ground we can’t use ufer grounds, and make us use copper ground rods, which we actually prefer, but all other places I work don’t differentiate this from traditional footers at all!
Aaron, really love the ICF and Fast Foot videos. My question is about cold joints if I’m not pouring the footings and walls the same day. How could I prevent cold joints? Is there something in addition to the rebar that could bond the walls to the footings so the whole frame would be monocoque? Living in an earthquake zone I like the strength of ICF but fear that a cold joint at the footing/wall would negate a lot of that earthquake resistance. Thx.
They make pvc water stops but you really need to be sure exactly where the water will be to center it, you can also imbed a 2x4 flat in the footing so it creates a key way that makes water have to work a lot harder to push through!
Do you think ICF is a begineer DIY project? If yes, why most ICF video done by contractors say: ICF is not a DIY job? If no, then what is the use of posting how to videos? Can you make another video explaining whether ICF is a DIY or not?!
I’m actually pouring footings on a personal project this week and the icf walls will largely be done by my wife, who has exactly 0 knowledge or interest in construction to demonstrate the inherent diy-ability of the product:). There are multiple levels of diy, some people set forms and bracing then hire somebody like me to come in and pour for much less than if I did the whole thing, some go ahead and pour it and save even more, depends on your comfort level!
A couple dozen holes the diameter of a nail, full of a nail, as opposed to the entire surface area of the footing…. I didn’t write the manufacturers directions, for the record we don’t use them often because it’s not super necessary…. But it’s what fabform recommends, and it’s a fraction of a fraction of a percent compared to conventional footings
Wow, a faster easier way to do a footing that also builds in a fix to the huge issue of rising damp and u don’t understand the value??? Cool, keep building shacks!
Upcharge for this? Several years ago I was quoted $25,000 to pour a 1200 sq/ft driveway by two different contractors. Concrete already costs a flunking fortune, so no, I don't want to be "upcharged" for a g.d. thing
That’s why this video is titled DIY…. If you don’t want to pay extra for something that costs extra, but provides more value to the home than the cost, Do It Yourself! I’m a huge advocate for sweat equity…. And several years ago, and today that price you quoted is out of line unless you were wanting decorative concrete of some type…
Exactly, which is why we use ground rods when we use this, some municipalities haven’t wrapped their heads around the fact but most of the ones I deal with have!
We built a full ICF home two years ago. I used Fastfoot attached to the bottom row of the ICF using levellers attached to the ICF. Did a mono pour. It worked fantastic.
@@Marcusus we had a nice level excavation so it was a breeze. We dug 5’ wide and 4’ deep trenches so we had lots of room to work.
"I'm gonna go ahead and drop that". That was a great line. love your videos. I've been thinking of doing an ICF home and you are making me feel more confident about my being able to do it.
Thank you
me too...cottage for me though
I have been a fan of fastfoot over 10 years. On construction sites have used reinforcing plastic to do the same thing stapling every 2~3 inches for 8 years.
Attention to good details is your strong suit. That tip on not nailing the cross supports to the level screed boards is a jewel. It's way easier and quicker to screed level. And the finish looks so much better. Keep it up!
Great videos and explanations.... A true trendsetter in the business. Thank you for sharing and posting such valuable content.
Love to see you start with excavation, stake placement, and how you put in the ICFs. Then it would be great to see you do all this then the pour. Thanks.
Definitely going on the list for my self-build... Awesome,
it's a good system. I use it almost exclusively on my ICF jobs. I recommend as stated in the video not doing a monopour as your first job. If you are inexperienced with pumping concrete you will find it moves if not poured properly, and there are enough things to worry about without adding more.
Yeah I agree I am glad I didn't do a mono pour for my first
I find your postings very informative, well thought out stuff you do. I am considering ICF pool for myself !
Happy to help! Hit us up at icfguru.com
Hey Aaron, love the video! So helpful for me as I'm getting ready to build an ICF house!
Glad to hear it!
love these two products
thanks for sharing
Nice video Aaron. No BS just straight talk.
Thanks! Glad you guys approve! I feel like I rushed it out a bit since weather and well drillers held up finishing an icf pool build I was going to post lol. Got to point out how awesome the sewn corners are and how much time and material they save!
Ps, I hadn’t seen your fast foot pier pads, those look super cool, I’m going to tell Daryl to order some!
Cutting Edge Homes is my new favorite channel. I want Aaron to come help me build my house.
Lol thanks!
Thank you. Very nice. Do you have a video about the mix you like to use? If not I would appreciate one.
Footings I usually use 3500 psi 3/4 aggregate at a 4 slump
thank you for bringing this to us
You’re welcome!
Another very informative video! I’ve been trying to learn all I can about ICF construction so I can make more informed decisions when choosing and interacting with a contractor. I would love if you could share some information on the types of questions you might want to ask a contractor when building or designing an ICF home. I’d also love some information on what sort of things to avoid when designing an ICF home.
Thank you again!
Wow, this product made sense from the start but that monopour idea seems huge. Especially for a more thorough waterproof.
It’s not that bad to pull off…. We get a little fancy with the mix to plug up the footer, plasticizer to add temporary fluidity and calcium to firm it up quick…. Not to the whole order, just enough to firm up the mud in the bag! I’ve poured upwards of 19’ on top of Monopour at one time and the other guy BBC we talked about has done 24’…. So doing a normal Basement wall is pretty straight forward!
@@all3pools that's great to hear! I'm very interested in doing this myself. Would also save a step with rebar! Would it be smart to bend a small 90 in the bottom end of your vertical so you don't poke your liner? Or do you do it first and just wire it to the side of a web?
I would love to see a video of an actual build with this, using below-grade footings, and pouring the slab at the same time. One day I'd love to build a house in a rural location with these building techniques, and there have got to be cost savings in only having the concrete pump have to come out once.
This same guy has a video like that where he builds a pool with a monopour
th-cam.com/video/wB6sXydbCEo/w-d-xo.html
Actually now I'm not sure what is below grade there as he has a catch basin.
Yeah it was a series on Build Blocks TH-cam channel that has the below grade footers.
Great video! Having a capillary break under the footing is one of the things a lot of people neglect to do. Very important IMO.
Any plans on doing a video on the monopour system? I've been debating trying it for quite sometime now. It's seems like a good way to save cost on pump trucks and save me time on my jobs.
Wish I had seen this video a year ago, thank you.
Good demo. Looking forward
+1. .. The FastFoot footings pouch is the way to go ..... FastFoot footer pouch directly attached to an ICF ala the adjustable legs is a "game-changer".
Good stuff for a vapor barrier, and simple mono-pour. If I’d had this years ago, I would have used it. Instead, we used 6-8ply visqueen as a barrier.
Would like to see a video how to do corners with this product.
Ya I had one laying on the ground in front of me and forgot to show it... we used to have to do some fancy origami to make corners that are up a good bit of run, then they came out with a sewn 90 degree corner and it’s life changing! You can see it right in the front page at fab forms website
Saw one on the product website
Outstanding, I will change the way to construct toward Nudura or Fox (which one?)with fast footing....will b building my self
We have a lot of ledge in Vermont. How does this product work on uneven ground?
Footing steps are really easy to form up…. You will use a fair amount of material so I’d order a full roll over what your linear ft dictate!
What are your thoughts on Helix rebar replacement? We are building an ICF home soon and we are trying to find a ready-mix contractor that will work with us to do the walls and slab with the Helix product. We are completely sold on Helix but the concrete suppliers are definitely old-school when it comes to anything new. We want to do a monopour with the first couple of courses of ICF to prevent a cold joint betweenthe footing. We have a little time to figure it out so that's a good thing.
I was gonna ask a similar question to Patrick McDonald’s...Could you and or how could you combine the form-a-drain system with the waterproofed MONOfooting🤔🧐🤨. I understand from the contractors point it would create more work but in the end I think it would create a better foundation therefore a better product
Great video. We do our own foundations and this would be a great tool to add.
Once you remove the 2 x 4 framing from the footer, is the fastfoot material bonded with the concrete? In my area the below grade ICF walls need a termite and water barrier. Can you simply trim the excess fastfoot material and them apply a peel and stick termite & water barrier from the walls -- over the top of the footings -- and onto the fastfoot material on the sides of the footing?
Tempted by the mono-pour, but I feel like the bag and the little legs would be subject to horizontal movement. I like the idea of spray foaming the blocks to a solid footing chalked with a straight line. Are my concerns founded?
Not really, it’s all in the bracing, bag is surprisingly stable but the wall could move if not properly braced but it’s pretty straight forward
How do you stop the footing/walls from shifting during the pour? In my head the concrete is going to push and pull those walls anywhere it wants... no?
No, very stable footing forms, the forms are foam glued to the footing
Gold! thanks Aaron and Christina ... new to this arena but I have seen the icf cut out where the legs attach to the fastening strip.. is that unnecessary step? appreciate you guys :D
Ever used this in conjunction with Form-A-Drain?
question, can u use this product when pouring a basement floor. If so how do you attach the rebar to the footing and it looks like it budges out from the wall when filled. I am new to this product. Thank you for your help.
Yes and yes
So, ideally, you'd lay down the vapor barrier first, then the Fast Foot on top, then staple both to a 2x4 running length-wise?
Which vapor barriers do you prefer?
Fast foot is a vapor barrier, you only need to add to it inside after they pour, 6-10 mil plastic or if u can swing it 2” of closed cell foam
Any thoughts on Form-A-Drain vs this? Fastfoot looks great, especially for a monopour, but I keep thinking having drains as part of the footer ends up with more benefits.
I have not used form a drain, nor can I speak to costs/benefits... I think it has to be considerably more but you are replacing drain pipe as well so you’d have to crunch the numbers, what I like about it is the potential radon mitigation, I’m in the ozarks and it’s a common problem on houses here... but otherwise I think I see more benefit to keeping the footing out of contact with the wet soil, at least here in Missouri, we have very karst topography and water moves laterally through the ground but a properly installed French drain is cheap and works really well if done right, but you can literally see moisture on the inside of a normal footing just wicking up into the stemwall... we do a lot of crazy stuff to our crawls these days up to spraying closed cell marine grade foam on the floor and footers and conditioning them, once you go that far you don’t absolutely need the fastfoot I suppose, but it’s so quick and easy I’ll probably always use it! You gotta love all the innovation though, annoys me so much when I see the same old dogs refusing the new tricks lol
wrong, form-a-drain does nothing to stop moisture from wicking up an icf wall. fast foot is superior especially since you can put a french drain in also with fast foot.
@@jjg1501 Thanks for your comment. How big of a problem is moisture wicking up a wall? 99.9% of footings are in contact with bare earth, right? Does Fastfoot prevent you from making an Ufer ground? Perhaps you could throw some Xypex in the footing concrete to prevent wicking.
Love the system and found there website bit don't see where to buy there products. I am in central MO so must be around here. Do you sell it or is I a local distributor? Thanks for any help.
This was really interesting but I thought footers had to be below grade for frost protection?
They do, our frost line is 18”
How does the methodical pour in high ground freeze work? That would be interesting to know.
Still need the footings to go below frost line…. In low temp areas you will have a lot deeper leg on your mono than in Missouri where our frost line is 18” but still very doable
Would you happen to know, how long the fabric can be exposed to UV before degrading?
I don’t know the official answer, some of the guys in bc that work for fab watch these so maybe they can comment, but I’ve had some around pools exposed for a long time with no visible degradation
You would need at least 3 months of day in, day out sunlight on Fastfoot for it to slightly damage its strength. If its taking you longer than two weeks for a set of footings you are in the wrong business!
@@FabFormIndustries I'm an owner builder using Zonts/Zuckles and yep, even I was able to build my footers under two months.
@@KipringPayne How did it all work out? Would be great for us to see some photos. Any issues?
@@FabFormIndustries Tried Posting this before links may not be working. - posting a second comment with link .
Is there any disadvantage of pouring a footer then pooring a wall? That monopour looks like a wicked cool technique.
Could we use the mono poor legs attached to the 2x4?
Yes!
What do you do if there is a UFER required for electrical ground
Great question, only 1 municipality I deal with recognizes there’s an issue, and they have me install traditional ground rods
In colder climates , CO , Wy, Alaska etc why not use ICF forms along with Fastfoot inside of ICF footings for additional insulation & frost protection ? ?
They have a system like that, I forget it’s name but you use foam board in lieu of forms, it’s got a web like icf you insert your foam into, looks cool and could b valuable anywhere it gets really cold, thermal breaks wherever you can whenever you can!
Would you also put the Fastfoot on the inside too then as a waterproof barrier then pour the footing ? I guess it wouldn’t hurt putting the foam on the bottom as well as the sides then too or would it compromise the footing at all ? ? Just thinking outside the box to keep the entire footing from freezing & water proof but I know it’s got to be at least 48” below grade in those type of environments. ? ?
Could you add CMU to the top of this?
What are the black cloth cylinders shown at 7:24. Looks like it is maybe pier forms?
Tar paper pier pads, stitch them together with 16 penny nails and fill them up, hillbilly but effective! That said, fast foot makes killer pier pads now too so I’m retiring the tar paper!
It’s called the Foothold , the product you mentioned . I saw it also but was concerned about a few negative comments about it on “You Tube “ but looks promising along with the Fastfoot . What’s your opinion ? ? My wife & I plan on an ICF home build in Ridgway CO but want to do it right & efficient since it will be our dream home . Thx 👍
In my climate I like the waterproofing aspect of fastfoot more than I value a thermal break below the frost line but if you could do both by running fastfoot inside the other system, win win!
I'm starting a new residential building in New Jersey area and would like some support on creating a Bill-of-Materials and sourcing them. Are you able to help.
Just emailed you!
Only issues I see with this type of footing material is the fact that you dont have a solid flat square bottom at the footing and that will lead to issues with the footing sinking in more compared to a flat bottom footing. The other issue is reflective of the last issue just talked about but the bowing out of the sides. I would rather have the regular formed footings with rectangular shape.
There is the same amount of flat with these as opposed to traditional footings…. And a square corner has nothing to do with a shape being less likely to sink, any footing can settle if placed on bad soil….
@@all3pools how is there the same amount of flat area when the bottom of the fab form footing is rounded and the sides are rounded. Thats because its not the same as a traditional footing. And yes it all depends on the type of soil and soil bearing capacity regarding how much a footing will settle but I would put money on a traditional footing compared to a fab form shown in that video cause its rounded on the bottom and sides. Its going to sink more into any soil compared to a traditional footing with flat squared bottom justdue to the shape. If you take something square and push it into say the dirt there will be more resistance and less compression into the soil. If you take that fab form footing where its rounded on the bottom and sides it will push more into the soil just due to the mear shape. Its like a pointed edge. Not to mention as well that a tradional square bottom footing wont roll on either side if the weight is more than it can support compared to the fab form footing which is rounded on the bottom. It has the potential to roll to one side cause the bottom of the footing is rounded due to it not being able to support the weight.
If you properly compacted the surface that you will be pouring on, the bottom of the footer will be flat. The sides will not be with the Fab form product. You have to make sure the plastic is touching the ground the proper width of the footer that you want. Whatever is in contact with the flat ground will be flat.
I am building a house and plan on using the ICF and Fast foot form. Have you ever poured a cantilever footing with this. My footing is going to be basically 1 foot out side and 2 foot inside. I think I can just take 2 bags and over lap them to get the extra footing on the inside. What do you think.
The fastfoot comes in widths up to at least 72”, so you may be able to make one work…. You can do what you are talking about but you will want to try to attach them in the middle a little bit if you pour really wet, it will slide out from under if it’s not fixed at least somewhat, or pour it stiff, which makes for a stronger footer anyway!
Thanks!!! 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
How high is the first pour if you use the legs, as in how many blocks of ICF and then how long before you pour to finished hight say on a single story rancher ?
You can generally pour as high as you need for your plan, the official answer from most block manufacturers is 12-15’ max height per pour…. That said, I know a couple contractors who exceed that when necessary and we have poured around 20’ all at one a few times
Like you do with the pool it looks like you could pour your slab and footer at the same time, no?
Yes you can!
Will this strategy pass building code in the USA?
Yes one county I do work in has decided that since the footer isn’t truly in the ground we can’t use ufer grounds, and make us use copper ground rods, which we actually prefer, but all other places I work don’t differentiate this from traditional footers at all!
Aaron, really love the ICF and Fast Foot videos. My question is about cold joints if I’m not pouring the footings and walls the same day. How could I prevent cold joints? Is there something in addition to the rebar that could bond the walls to the footings so the whole frame would be monocoque? Living in an earthquake zone I like the strength of ICF but fear that a cold joint at the footing/wall would negate a lot of that earthquake resistance. Thx.
They make pvc water stops but you really need to be sure exactly where the water will be to center it, you can also imbed a 2x4 flat in the footing so it creates a key way that makes water have to work a lot harder to push through!
Is it possible to pour a 19' wall with this method?
Short answer yes
Do you think ICF is a begineer DIY project? If yes, why most ICF video done by contractors say: ICF is not a DIY job? If no, then what is the use of posting how to videos? Can you make another video explaining whether ICF is a DIY or not?!
I’m actually pouring footings on a personal project this week and the icf walls will largely be done by my wife, who has exactly 0 knowledge or interest in construction to demonstrate the inherent diy-ability of the product:). There are multiple levels of diy, some people set forms and bracing then hire somebody like me to come in and pour for much less than if I did the whole thing, some go ahead and pour it and save even more, depends on your comfort level!
We are thinking of using this for our concrete footings (non-ICF) with a 16 x 28 inch footing. Will this work with that size footing?
Ya, there are 2 widths, I usually get the 72” wide just so I have more flexibility in footing width!
@@all3pools Great! I will probably order some this coming week. Thanks!
How do you connect the pieces of barrier?
Uses it to waterproof the footer, then recommends putting nails through the middle?
A couple dozen holes the diameter of a nail, full of a nail, as opposed to the entire surface area of the footing…. I didn’t write the manufacturers directions, for the record we don’t use them often because it’s not super necessary…. But it’s what fabform recommends, and it’s a fraction of a fraction of a percent compared to conventional footings
@@all3pools Sorry, i was being a smart ass. This system looks really cool!
Lol
Interesting, though my Footing is 23+" and I will be using a Ufer Ground so, no plastic for me
How do you waterproof the fastfoot that is below grade?
Fastfoot is waterproof, multiple ways to tie it into your icf waterproofing to create an unbroken barrier
Do u need a fitting on pool installs ????
?
Oops sorry I ment footing thanks again
So I'm guessing this wouldn't work with pouring a slab?
If it has a thickened edge snd you form the outside, u can still do it this way
Don't forget to paint all of the rocks in your driveway to. People where does it end? This is crazy 😂
Wow, a faster easier way to do a footing that also builds in a fix to the huge issue of rising damp and u don’t understand the value??? Cool, keep building shacks!
This guy acts just like Howie mandrel. He is a comedian. From the 80's. Go look him up.
Pretty sure howie mandel is pretty relevant lol
Upcharge for this?
Several years ago I was quoted $25,000 to pour a 1200 sq/ft driveway by two different contractors. Concrete already costs a flunking fortune, so no, I don't want to be "upcharged" for a g.d. thing
That’s why this video is titled DIY…. If you don’t want to pay extra for something that costs extra, but provides more value to the home than the cost, Do It Yourself! I’m a huge advocate for sweat equity…. And several years ago, and today that price you quoted is out of line unless you were wanting decorative concrete of some type…
@@all3pools
6" slab with nothing fancy
Materials and labor are far less expensive in the interior states than the coastal states
Eufer ground should not have plastic under it.
Exactly, which is why we use ground rods when we use this, some municipalities haven’t wrapped their heads around the fact but most of the ones I deal with have!
One thing. Who just runs footings on the ground? I have never, in 20+ years, done a footing that wasnt elevated....
There is nothing fast about it. For ppl that don't know how to build.
Looks like a gimmick. Not something that is useful.
Lol