Nice! It's a great stick! I suspect Hori created the stick for Japanese Tekken players because it has the same layout as the Namco Noir cabinet (Tekken 7 cabinet) and a similar color sceme than on the dedicated Tekken 7 cabinet and seems like most Japanese Tekken players are using this stick, like Nobi. But the Noir layout also works great for any kind of game of course, not just Tekken. It's also the closest modern layout to the most popular 90's Japanese arcade cabinets.
Thanks for the help Jasen! It's been four years but this video was still useful to figure out how to do my first mod ever. Funnily enough, it was actually to transplant the Hayabusa buttons into another stick from this one, but such is life I suppose :p
@Jose Partida You mentioned you have a Hori RAP4, and I'm thinking about buying one. First I have a question I was hoping you could help me with, Is it possible to rewire the share button or touchpad to one of the front eight buttons (the ones used for normal play), like are the detachable cables interchangeable? Or are the share button/touch pad hardwired in place?
@Elias Turner from what I’ve found out I think it’s only possible to reprogram the options button to the turbo button on the side. That’s all I’ve seen.
@@josepartida1711 Okay thanks for the reply, I'm getting the feeling it was the PS3/360 era fight sticks that had a detachable wire you could easily reattach select/back buttonto the front eightbuttons. I know basically nothing about modding, but it seems most new sticks the share button /touchpad is hardwired in place to pcb. So you can't just switch its spot easy, darn it lol
PogChamp I'm about to pick this stick up soon! Just got all the accessories, except for the Zealios switches I'm ordering this Friday! Super glad you posted this! (:
Just scooped a used Hori Rap Pro V .As a Gamer and an HVAC Technician. Great Teardown. Also I like the fact that you checked resistance and to ground. I Too have the Fluke 115, great all purpose meter!
This is my first fight stick. I just swapped out the buttons and lever for sanwa parts. Planning on changing the art and switching to the universal fighting board. Any chance an EZ mod might come out. I saw on Twitter arcade shock said demand wasn't high enough to produce them so I'm guessing the answer is no but I'd buy one if it was available. I'm really glad I went with this stick over the Razer Panthera regardless. Thanks for all the information you provide us. It's great!
5:50 I recommend removing the yellow restrictor from the bottom of the LS-40-01. The other side is gated differently than the other and neither feel right. Removing it gives the perfect gate for the stick.
@@okakokakiev787 The purpose of the yellow triple gate is that it can be left installed on the stick when using the square gate, that way the arcade operator doesn't have to search for the restrictor when changing to 4 way and 2 way gates. But all triple restrictors have the same flaws because they share the shape with neighboring shapes and that leaves the other direction different to the other direction. There isn't a restrictor for the LS-40 that would have separate 2-way, 4-way and Square gates. I though there could be some idea/design on the yellow square restrictor if both sides were the same, so i cut two restrictors to make one complete one with both matching sides but it did not feel great because there are noticeable notches in all 4 corners when moving from touching the yellow restrictor to the white gate. So it makes the corners a bit more rounded but there are 8 annoying notches. And removing the yellow restrictor doesn't make it too square. It works perfectly with out it.
It was unfortunate that Soul Calibur VI failed, but because of that I got one of these sticks for ~$90 brand new from Hori when they were clearing out stock on the SC-VI designed variant. I've enjoyed the stick very much since getting it. Thanks for the breakdown here!
Bro I just broke down both my RAP Kai and RAP N to swap out my microswitches cause I had no frame of reference for your comment. (As to WHEN they stopped using Panasonic microswitches.) And both sticks have omron microswitches. I had installed the Otto diy v5 mod on my kai previously. So when I got my RAP N I just swapped the the entire assembly for both sticks. Since I read your comment...well I have both sticks entirely broken down in front of me and I'm just sitting here like "damn." Now gotta reassemble these mughs until I can play street fighter
5:47 Nice!! Much better than the Hori VLX Premium mount that doesn't fit a Seimitsu SS plate. It's so important for all Seimitsus but especially the LS-32.
Great video, Keep up the amazing work, understand this is an old video but i have recently purchased this stick . What would cause when you hit one of the buttons (R1) it seems to act like you are pressing two buttons at once? seems my Mad Catz MVC TCE is starting to get the same symptoms ? is their fix for this or do i need to replace buttons ? Love the video .
How would I go about putting a Korean lever on this if I don't change the board? I'm guessing I would have to solder it on there and remove the old sticks wires? I have a Crown 309mj
You can use an adapter from JLF to .187" QDC. Though, you will likely need to bend the tabs on the microswitches to fit within the confines of the plastic housing.
Interesting, I believe I have one of those already. You're talking about the harness that FocusAttack sells as an option with Korean levers right? It has the individual plugs that connect directly to the microswitches on one side and then the quick disconnect on the other? I assume I can plug that right into the board? What about the unused wires next to it that are already soldered? I apologize for all the questions btw I am just having a mental breakdown over here lol and I know you're the best in the business edit: I also have one that has a male end but it doesn't look like it would reach?
Nice! Any chance you can fit a Brook's UFB in there? I guess it must be hard because of the touch pad and the other buttons like the home L3 R3 are in a pcb. Is there a way around that?
The wires for that panels ribbon cable are labeled so just label the wires on the end then cut the connector off and put those wires in the ufb screw terminals.
Standard Hayabusa lever could also be upgraded with one of the OTTO DIY kits (V2 or V5) + an optional stainless steel pivot or pivot base. It should feel almost identical to an OTTO DIY-modded Sanwa JLF lever, as the kits work on both lever makes. FYI, I believe that the OTTO kits are NOT compatible with optical levers.
One of the cables to the options button got mashed on the tube while I was closing it up. So I've got two pinch points on one of the cables and it sometimes pauses my games. I'm looking at maybe cutting the cable where it's got the pinch points and connecting it up again with a cable connector. I see that they have Amperages though, not sure what one to get!
When it comes to a simple replacement, what seimitsu stick have the same connection and mounting plate as this hayabusa stick? Planning on changing my pretty soon but don't want to buy multiples or having to mod the stick to make it work properly.
When you buy a Seimitsu stick you can most of the time choose an SS plate that is bent, to get the stick as close to the panel that it was designed for. LS-40 is a great general stick for any kind of game. LS-32 is the benchmark for a great joystick but a little getting used to because doesn't suit heavy handed gaming. LSX-Nobi-STD (buy a ball top for it) doesn't need an SS plate but you can buy an SS plate that is for LS-32 and LS-40 separately and it will fit. It's perfect for Tekken and other fighting games in my opinion and every kind of game except shmups because the heavier spring isn't so great for slower fine control movements.
Hi Jasen, Is there a way to permanently disable the PS4 function and Turbo button? I only use for PS3 and have no intention of ever using it with a PS4 (MVC2). The reason I ask is because at least three times during live gameplay, I notice my inputs were messed up and the stick not responding correctly. Dont ask me how, but I somehow managed to press the PS4 option and triggered the turbo button. For now, I have it covered with black tape. Thanks!
Oh wow i was under the impression hori sticks aren't that mod friendly but I guess i was wrong. But regardless of moddability, seeing it up close in this vid I'm loving the look of it in its default stock configuration. I actually really like hori buttons.
Really liked your breakdown it could not have been more detailed. Can you make an episode for its' artwork change cause this seems to be tough for this one since there seems to be limited options available for that
I think most people just lay something over the top of it and keep it protected by plexi. I'm sure there are a couple shops out there that offer a print/cut service for this.
I see most fightsticks come with that ferrite bead on the USB cable, is that really necessary? As far as I know, it's used to reduce noise in the signal, but doesn't a shielded cable do the same? I made a 5M/15ft cable which connects with a GX12-5 aviation connector at the case, and then from the case to the USB type-B into a Brook board. I'm just concerned the cable length might introduce some added delay or something
I'm new at this and wanted to know, is this a direct replacement as in no extra modding to make the stick work properly and how do I know which one is a SS mounting plate for when I shop around for it? Thank you.
Hi! ;) To this day if you had to choose between this Hori Real Arcade pro N or the razer panthera evo which would you choose? Finally, can you put or would a brook PCB fit in the Hori RAP N? Thanks for the video amazing quality
I may look into getting this in the future, but that square gate's gotta go. I've only ever been comfortable with an octagonal gate. What gate would I need to get to use for this stick?
Most fightsticks feature a restrictor plate with a interchangeable gate. Unfortunately the Hayabusa doesn’t feature the swapable gate because the gate and restrictior plate are one piece. I went to FocusAttack.com and searched for an octogonal gate and found they made a special one for the hayabusa stick for like only $4
SaviorGabriel yes all you do is open up the case like he did and there will be a big mount for the joystick. Just simply unscrew the 4 screws and it should let you pop a plate right off and it’ll have a square in the center that’s the restrictor plate then pop in the new plate and just screw it back it and it’s simply as that
He recently dropped the business (temporarily?) to go back to school. I literally have one of the last ones off the website before it closed. If you look around there are some similar metal fightsticks.
Newbie question: I play the occasional fighting game (DBZ, Smash). But mostly I play platformers and RPG’s. I’ve always wanted an “arcade” experience when playing non-arcade type games...is it possible to play non-fighting games, say, Persona 5 or the upcoming Dragon Quest XI with a fightstick? I see a foreseeable issue that there isn’t two directional pads/analog sticks where one is for movement and one is for controlling the camera. Anybody have any input on this? I got some real “gearlust” from these custom fightsticks lol
It should fit fine, though the balltop of the lever may be shorter than expected unless you put a long shaft in it or the lever is specifically designed to fit the flat plate.
If the MS mounting plate still leaves your LS-56/-58 a bit low above the faceplate, you can buy an SS Mounting Plate P=40 now for the LS-56/-58. It installs just like the LS-32-01 does with with (also confusingly named) SS Mounting Plate. Those SS MP's shift the joystick stack upward a bit so that the shaft clears the hole with a better height between the handle and faceplate of the joystick. Those MS mounting plates are really only good with longer shaft joystick levers. For years, they sold the LS-40-01 with the straight rectangular RE Mounting Plate (called the SE Mounting Plate now) but it really needed the SS Mounting Plate (same part the LS-32-01 ships with) to install with adequate faceplate clearance. It's only been the last few years that Arcade Shock has been selling the SS MP with the LS-40-01 to people who request it without charging extra! Most vendors, still sell the LS-40-01 only with the rectangular/straight MP. You have to pay extra to them for the MP that works best 95% of the time! You really only use the straight/rectangular MP's with short-shaft joystick levers that can be installed flushed against the faceplate underside. The only time I've been able to do that is with Hori faceplates I modded. You have to do some drilling and use self-clinching M4 studs for this to work which ruins the faceplate art around the control lever! It also inevitably means getting rid of the stock (and useless for LS-32/LS-40 installations) mounting bracket. Thank goodness Hori started making ALL their joystick bases with universal mounting brackets after they introduced the HRAP V line!
I'm looking at a kaimana led kit from paradise arcade to use on my Hori RAP N. Will I need to solder the LED mini driver to the pcb or another tool to attach it to my pcb?
i know that may sound stupid, but do you need to disconnect the cables from the buttons and the pcp to change the lever /buttons, or just disconnect it from the buttons?
I have the soul caliber 6 edition. It just stopped working a couple of days ago. I guess I need a new PCB. Do they make an EZ-mod board kit for the R.A.P. N or can I install it without both soldering and the EZ-Mod ?
I dont think there is one out yet. I would email arcade shock and ask them if they plan on making one. Let me know what they say. Also I jave the same stick, the xbox version, any idea why your cob would fail?
I'd like to do an episode for a lot of the major sticks out there! Need to get some sponsors/donors to help with the costs of doing these videos, unfortunately TH-cam hasn't let me monetize these videos to help offset the costs.
I have a Hori Real Arcade Pro EX-SE for the X360, it has seimitsu parts, but I was thinking of switching out the Seimitsu joystick with a Sanwa Sanwa JLF-TPRG-8BYT-SK Higher Tension Silent Microswitch Joystick. The problem is that the wiring harness goes from the onboard PCB soldered directly to the switches. How hard would it be wire the Sanwa with the built in PCB? Thank you so much for your help!!!
Just splice the wires, meaning: remove the wires from the installed lever and solder them to the harness included with the JLF so you can use the connector on the JLF and remove it whenever. Likely need to mark each wire and determine which is UP/DOWN/LEFT/RIGHT and GND first of course.
can the stock touch pad somehow connect to Brook PS4 Fighting Board + Audio? Me & a co-worker were considering to swap the PCB in a HRAP N Tekken 7 Edition, with a Brook PCB because the stock PCB was breaking down, it couldn't boot up. And I was slightly worried that I could not get the touch pad to work if we installed a different PCB. Fortunately the problem could be resolved by cleaning some soldering tin residue around the VCC, D+ and etc that were causing problems.
Yes, they have 6-pin connectors in the later Hori HRAP lines. The VLX and HRAP N both support optical joysticks. The Silent JLF and Silent Hayabusa are compatible with the base. That's for THIS generation. I can't speak to the PS3-era joysticks other than to say that if you wanted optical compatibility FOR SURE, then investing in a replacement or add-on PCB like an MC Cthulu or Brooks Fighting Board is probably a good idea. Those PCB boards have terminal positions (they're marked as VCC/5V; documentation will tell you which position to use for optical joysticks) that allow you to screw in power lines for optical joysticks. I have plans to perhaps install a Silent Hayabusa in one of the joystick cases I own that has an MC Cthulu.
Idk I use it stock theres no reason to replace anything besides the art work why recommend replacing with sanwa when these parts feel better then sanwa parts?
I like square Gates, I'm a scrub that likes to slam into my diagonals and the corners make them easier to find. Consequently my Korean backslashes are terrible but I don't know if a circle or octo gate would even help that.
Hey Jasen - love your videos! Question - I just purchased this stick and was wondering if I could replace the actual switch in the button with Sanwa SW-68 Button Micro Switches (the standard for 30mm). I like the buttons and prefer to just swap out the switch.
Not sure why the Noir layout doesn’t seem to be appreciated much. I personally love the curvature of the layout, not to mention the separation between the stick and the buttons. My two favorite sticks last generation were my SCV and TTT2 TE’s.
There are people who like drones will NEVER deviate from what they know. I've played with HRAP 1, Viewlix, and Astro City/Noir layouts. Astro City/Noir is BY FAR the most ergonomic and least punishing to your hand and fingers. It follows the natural curvature of your hand and the buttons are all usable!!!! Viewlix is FINE for a six-button configuration but over time it will fatigue you faster than Astro City. With HRAP 1 layout, the furthest 2 left buttons are almost completely unusable; most people plug/delete the buttons in that position or unplug them. As far as the control lever goes, the Hayabusa lever included with this joystick is among the best on the market. It's my favorite Japanese control lever. Only Sanwa fanboys say the Hori lever is bad. These are the guys that have $100 or more invested in replacement parts to make their Sanwa JLF "perfect." There's a reason there's an aftermarket for that joystick and so many alternate actuators, spring tensions, and replacement gates. The stock JLF is anything but the perfect joystick.
@@AvengerII You sound like you know what your talking about, and I was hoping you could tell me if the Hori RAP4 KAI PS4 stick has a easy way to rewire the share button or touchpad to one of the front eightbuttons? I heard someone say the last console generation had arcade sticks that you could easily detach the select/back button and reattach it to any of the front eight buttons. Did that change this console generation, where things like the share button /touchpad are hardwired inplace with PCB?
@@rebranded1248 I'm sorry but I can't help you there. I frankly would leave the PCB alone and NOT do what you're proposing. Leave the main eight 30mm buttons alone or you may be looking at a $80 repair bill (with just parts, NOT labor). My advice would be to leave the Hori PCB alone. I barely understand the wiring business as it is. Jasens Kustoms would be a better guy to talk to about this. My guess is that if you're decent with soldering, you MIGHT be able to do what you're proposing but check with someone who understands this PCB better than I ever would. As I've been told, a lot of rewiring and soldering depends on if a PCB is common ground. If it's not common ground, a lot of the mods people propose/want to do become much more difficult because you not only have to solder a signal line directly to the old button position you want to reuse/reroute, you also have to find the common/ground position for an electrical wire/signal line, too. I'm not an electrician -- I can follow directions but I would NEVER tell someone to mod without checking first with someone who is an electrician and has better knowledge of gaming controller PCBs. Jasen or another electrical guy/modder would be the one to talk to about this. He's a busy guy but he might get back in touch with you if you ask nicely.
@@AvengerII Thanks man, yeah I'm not going to mess with the PCB. I was only considering it if I could just reattach the wires with the clips. I never sodered anything before, something really complex is out of the question. Appreciate you getting back to me with some info, thanks again!
Hey, I disconnected the 5 pin connector from my joystick to swap the art and now after re connecting, the joystick no longer works. Is there something I can do to fix this? Please help.
Jasen Hicks I did reconnect it the right way. I ensured that tab that secures 5 pin connector on the top. I Actually got it working after I posted that. I just disconnected the joystick and reconnected again and it started working for some reason. Thank you for the video! It did help me understand the stick more !
Syrnn 【ダラ】 My personal experience with this stick has had me wanting to switch the gate to an octagonal or to an entirely new lever altogether. Not sure if its just me but its giving me issues with my quarter circles more than a budget stick would (my qanba drone).
I went with the Madcatz TE2+. It's still a square gate too and I must say, it's a little bit akward. Do you know a site that has octagonal gates available?
could someone recommend any videos on how to install the shaft it litteraly just popped out while playing 2 days after i modded the gate and the spring but was sure everything was in right. i have a hori rap n its my first stick and ik the parts to the shaft go under the plate and microswithes but have no idea on how to assembly them any tips would be great
@@Eth3realwarrior thanks for the reply but i was able to figure out how to assemble it it was the clip i didnt snap it in the whole way lol but its been solid since. ty anyway though 👍
I don’t think that’s for PS4 , all the sticks I’ve seen for ps4 have the touch pad. I could be wrong. Also why are the sticks mounted with a spacer like that ? I want to build my own . If that space necessary or just with that case
Just bought one myself and was wondering if anyone knew the dimensions for the panel art or how to go about it, there is free commissions for anyone who can help, thanks in advanced!
RepublicanMug - it’s a better case overall; the PCB looks similar but isn’t identical. The price is now only about a $20-25 difference depending on store.
Amazing video, tbh. I wish it had come out before I bought it, but I don't regret it. The ONE thing I HATE about the stick is the headphone jack quality. The audio sounds TERRIBLE
I own this stick. It is my very first stick and I am pleased with the design overall. However, the Hayabusa stock buttons feel like tapping on 10 sheets of paper. The sides feel loose and tend to make the button bend as a whole when pressing on the sides. The matte finish is nice for a non slip grip on the buttons but don't feel good to press at all. I recommend switching the buttons out for Sanwa buttons if you don't like the hayabusa buttons. Other than that, i'm going to try to put on an Octagonal Gate to see if I like it better than the Square Gate. I also am going to try Matte Bat top levers due to the marble finish of traditional ball top being slippery if you have sweaty hands. Other than that, if your starting off and like this stick upon looking, your good to go. Just buy your gate, lever top and buttons on amazon rather than buying a complete new stick if you already own this. (Unless your Hayabusa is broken)
I bought the Xbox One Tekken 7 fight stick which is the same as this one. After changing out 6 of the buttons for Sanwas I LOVE IT. I also got a Brookes Converter to use it for the PS4 and PS4 and it works perfectly. You can also easily mimic the touch pad for games that need it. If you are thinking of picking this up, I say do it. It's easy to mod the buttons. The art though, not so easy and I haven't tried. But overall, I LOVE it. I especially like the headphone jack.
I have the America’s stick too. I also swapped out 6 of the buttons for Sanwas. As for the artwork, it’s sticker. It’s not hard to remove it. If you want custom artwork, I recommend focusattack .com .
Ran Haines Hey Thanks. Yeah I'm trying to decide if I want to get this stick for PS4 and just change the art. I like the art for the XB1 version so I'm leaving it as is.
This is one of the best review in regards to the Arcade Stick i ever saw.U break it down & explain clearly. 👍
Fantastic breakdown. Just purchased the stick a couple of weeks ago, wasn't sure how far I could go with modding. Now I know! Thank you so much!
I really appreciate the in depth look from a moding perspective. Mine is already in the mail :)
Nice! It's a great stick! I suspect Hori created the stick for Japanese Tekken players because it has the same layout as the Namco Noir cabinet (Tekken 7 cabinet) and a similar color sceme than on the dedicated Tekken 7 cabinet and seems like most Japanese Tekken players are using this stick, like Nobi.
But the Noir layout also works great for any kind of game of course, not just Tekken. It's also the closest modern layout to the most popular 90's Japanese arcade cabinets.
Thanks for the help Jasen! It's been four years but this video was still useful to figure out how to do my first mod ever. Funnily enough, it was actually to transplant the Hayabusa buttons into another stick from this one, but such is life I suppose :p
just got this stick a week ago and even though this video is 5 years old, it's nice knowing that I can mod my stick at anytime.
Wow you really took that stick apart to examine every detail
Great video
I have a hori rap 4, and put it a sanwa balltop and buttons
@Jose Partida You mentioned you have a Hori RAP4, and I'm thinking about buying one. First I have a question I was hoping you could help me with, Is it possible to rewire the share button or touchpad to one of the front eight buttons (the ones used for normal play), like are the detachable cables interchangeable? Or are the share button/touch pad hardwired in place?
@Elias Turner from what I’ve found out I think it’s only possible to reprogram the options button to the turbo button on the side. That’s all I’ve seen.
@@josepartida1711 Okay thanks for the reply, I'm getting the feeling it was the PS3/360 era fight sticks that had a detachable wire you could easily reattach select/back buttonto the front eightbuttons. I know basically nothing about modding, but it seems most new sticks the share button /touchpad is hardwired in place to pcb. So you can't just switch its spot easy, darn it lol
PogChamp I'm about to pick this stick up soon! Just got all the accessories, except for the Zealios switches I'm ordering this Friday!
Super glad you posted this! (:
Just scooped a used Hori Rap Pro V .As a Gamer and an HVAC Technician. Great Teardown. Also I like the fact that you checked resistance and to ground. I Too have the Fluke 115, great all purpose meter!
This is my first fight stick. I just swapped out the buttons and lever for sanwa parts. Planning on changing the art and switching to the universal fighting board. Any chance an EZ mod might come out. I saw on Twitter arcade shock said demand wasn't high enough to produce them so I'm guessing the answer is no but I'd buy one if it was available. I'm really glad I went with this stick over the Razer Panthera regardless. Thanks for all the information you provide us. It's great!
5:50 I recommend removing the yellow restrictor from the bottom of the LS-40-01. The other side is gated differently than the other and neither feel right. Removing it gives the perfect gate for the stick.
I removed mine. But what is its purpose in the first place?
@@okakokakiev787 The purpose of the yellow triple gate is that it can be left installed on the stick when using the square gate, that way the arcade operator doesn't have to search for the restrictor when changing to 4 way and 2 way gates.
But all triple restrictors have the same flaws because they share the shape with neighboring shapes and that leaves the other direction different to the other direction.
There isn't a restrictor for the LS-40 that would have separate 2-way, 4-way and Square gates.
I though there could be some idea/design on the yellow square restrictor if both sides were the same, so i cut two restrictors to make one complete one with both matching sides but it did not feel great because there are noticeable notches in all 4 corners when moving from touching the yellow restrictor to the white gate. So it makes the corners a bit more rounded but there are 8 annoying notches. And removing the yellow restrictor doesn't make it too square. It works perfectly with out it.
@@epicon6 ok got it
It was unfortunate that Soul Calibur VI failed, but because of that I got one of these sticks for ~$90 brand new from Hori when they were clearing out stock on the SC-VI designed variant. I've enjoyed the stick very much since getting it. Thanks for the breakdown here!
The HRAP N is just a repurposed Soul Calibur 5 stick, except with the padded bottom.
how can i hit the thumbs down button when iam watching one of the best reviews on utube
thanks jasen and keep going pls
first time Ive heard of an arcade stick ticking lol :) nice video
Very detailed, people can realize what they pay for this stick.
Oh wow that's the first time I saw Omron switches in the Hayabusa lever. Makes sense since Panasonic switches are no more.
Bro I just broke down both my RAP Kai and RAP N to swap out my microswitches cause I had no frame of reference for your comment. (As to WHEN they stopped using Panasonic microswitches.)
And both sticks have omron microswitches.
I had installed the Otto diy v5 mod on my kai previously. So when I got my RAP N I just swapped the the entire assembly for both sticks.
Since I read your comment...well I have both sticks entirely broken down in front of me and I'm just sitting here like "damn." Now gotta reassemble these mughs until I can play street fighter
5:47 Nice!! Much better than the Hori VLX Premium mount that doesn't fit a Seimitsu SS plate. It's so important for all Seimitsus but especially the LS-32.
What is the purpose of the other screws at 1:31? the ones that you didn't touch.
Thank you for this very thorough video
Great video, Keep up the amazing work, understand this is an old video but i have recently purchased this stick . What would cause when you hit one of the buttons (R1) it seems to act like you are pressing two buttons at once? seems my Mad Catz MVC TCE is starting to get the same symptoms ? is their fix for this or do i need to replace buttons ? Love the video .
Would a crown CWJ-303A work ? I just so happen to have one in an old stick
How would I go about putting a Korean lever on this if I don't change the board? I'm guessing I would have to solder it on there and remove the old sticks wires? I have a Crown 309mj
You can use an adapter from JLF to .187" QDC. Though, you will likely need to bend the tabs on the microswitches to fit within the confines of the plastic housing.
Interesting, I believe I have one of those already. You're talking about the harness that FocusAttack sells as an option with Korean levers right? It has the individual plugs that connect directly to the microswitches on one side and then the quick disconnect on the other? I assume I can plug that right into the board? What about the unused wires next to it that are already soldered? I apologize for all the questions btw I am just having a mental breakdown over here lol and I know you're the best in the business
edit: I also have one that has a male end but it doesn't look like it would reach?
I hate the square gate.
Just ordered the octo gate.
Thanks for the info!!!
Nice! Any chance you can fit a Brook's UFB in there? I guess it must be hard because of the touch pad and the other buttons like the home L3 R3 are in a pcb. Is there a way around that?
RodCU - patience. Lots of cool stuff coming from my lab soon :)
I must ask on if this can fit gamer finger screw buttons or if I need to use buckle because I don't know if there's enough space between each button
is there any way to install brook UFB and connect select/PS etc. buttons to the panel on top?
The wires for that panels ribbon cable are labeled so just label the wires on the end then cut the connector off and put those wires in the ufb screw terminals.
Ever notice how hori mounting brackets never seem to be flush with the angle of the actual fighstick case?
Cool! Looks like there’s already a 6-pin JST connecter for the silent optical hayabusa’s six pin harness! A silent hayabusa would be plug and play!
Standard Hayabusa lever could also be upgraded with one of the OTTO DIY kits (V2 or V5) + an optional stainless steel pivot or pivot base. It should feel almost identical to an OTTO DIY-modded Sanwa JLF lever, as the kits work on both lever makes. FYI, I believe that the OTTO kits are NOT compatible with optical levers.
One of the cables to the options button got mashed on the tube while I was closing it up. So I've got two pinch points on one of the cables and it sometimes pauses my games. I'm looking at maybe cutting the cable where it's got the pinch points and connecting it up again with a cable connector. I see that they have Amperages though, not sure what one to get!
When it comes to a simple replacement, what seimitsu stick have the same connection and mounting plate as this hayabusa stick? Planning on changing my pretty soon but don't want to buy multiples or having to mod the stick to make it work properly.
When you buy a Seimitsu stick you can most of the time choose an SS plate that is bent, to get the stick as close to the panel that it was designed for.
LS-40 is a great general stick for any kind of game.
LS-32 is the benchmark for a great joystick but a little getting used to because doesn't suit heavy handed gaming.
LSX-Nobi-STD (buy a ball top for it) doesn't need an SS plate but you can buy an SS plate that is for LS-32 and LS-40 separately and it will fit. It's perfect for Tekken and other fighting games in my opinion and every kind of game except shmups because the heavier spring isn't so great for slower fine control movements.
What are the steps to replace the ball top with a bat top lever? What bat tops are compatible with this Hori RAP N? Thanks
if u spread the lever hole to 35 mm would a taeyoung fanta stick fit in without problems ?
@5:33 what material is the panel made of ?
Sucks that the design is on the plexiglass. You have to buy an additional sheet if you want to put artwork on it
Hi Jasen,
Is there a way to permanently disable the PS4 function and Turbo button? I only use for PS3 and have no intention of ever using it with a PS4 (MVC2).
The reason I ask is because at least three times during live gameplay, I notice my inputs were messed up and the stick not responding correctly. Dont ask me how, but I somehow managed to press the PS4 option and triggered the turbo button. For now, I have it covered with black tape.
Thanks!
Oh wow i was under the impression hori sticks aren't that mod friendly but I guess i was wrong. But regardless of moddability, seeing it up close in this vid I'm loving the look of it in its default stock configuration. I actually really like hori buttons.
What are the touch pad for?. Any use with mame roms?
Really liked your breakdown it could not have been more detailed.
Can you make an episode for its' artwork change cause this seems to be tough for this one since there seems to be limited options available for that
I think most people just lay something over the top of it and keep it protected by plexi. I'm sure there are a couple shops out there that offer a print/cut service for this.
I see most fightsticks come with that ferrite bead on the USB cable, is that really necessary? As far as I know, it's used to reduce noise in the signal, but doesn't a shielded cable do the same?
I made a 5M/15ft cable which connects with a GX12-5 aviation connector at the case, and then from the case to the USB type-B into a Brook board. I'm just concerned the cable length might introduce some added delay or something
Top notch video 👍👍👍
I'm thinking of purchasing this stick and replacing the lever with the Seimitsu LS-32-01. Would you recommend going for an SE or SS mount?
Use the SS mount. If you use a flat plate mount the ball top will sit pretty low. While I personally like this, many do not.
Thanks a lot for the quick reply and the info. Appreciated!
I'm new at this and wanted to know, is this a direct replacement as in no extra modding to make the stick work properly and how do I know which one is a SS mounting plate for when I shop around for it? Thank you.
Hi! ;) To this day if you had to choose between this Hori Real Arcade pro N or the razer panthera evo which would you choose? Finally, can you put or would a brook PCB fit in the Hori RAP N?
Thanks for the video amazing quality
I’d go with the Hori, all day.
@@JasenHicksFGC thk ;)
Seimitsu joystick is only fixed by two screws?
will a crown 303 mj-dx fit?
Is it possible to mod this into a wasd key lay out? I want to do this to mine for the fighting game I played.
Do you know what kind of screws those 8 screws are that's holding the bottom plate?
Is it possible to do a crossup mod in this stick?
I may look into getting this in the future, but that square gate's gotta go. I've only ever been comfortable with an octagonal gate. What gate would I need to get to use for this stick?
SaviorGabriel do you know if it's an 8 way stick? I have the Razer panthera which is an 8 way stick with a square gate but idk about this one
I would assume it is, but I wouldn't know for certain. I'm just curious about what to do to switch out the gate.
Most fightsticks feature a restrictor plate with a interchangeable gate. Unfortunately the Hayabusa doesn’t feature the swapable gate because the gate and restrictior plate are one piece. I went to FocusAttack.com and searched for an octogonal gate and found they made a special one for the hayabusa stick for like only $4
Okay, that's good to know. I assume it's an easy switch to do, correct?
SaviorGabriel yes all you do is open up the case like he did and there will be a big mount for the joystick. Just simply unscrew the 4 screws and it should let you pop a plate right off and it’ll have a square in the center that’s the restrictor plate then pop in the new plate and just screw it back it and it’s simply as that
Where can I purchase your cool created sticks
He recently dropped the business (temporarily?) to go back to school. I literally have one of the last ones off the website before it closed. If you look around there are some similar metal fightsticks.
Are you gonna do a mod video on how to install the brook ufb onto the rap n sometime later on?
Newbie question: I play the occasional fighting game (DBZ, Smash). But mostly I play platformers and RPG’s. I’ve always wanted an “arcade” experience when playing non-arcade type games...is it possible to play non-fighting games, say, Persona 5 or the upcoming Dragon Quest XI with a fightstick? I see a foreseeable issue that there isn’t two directional pads/analog sticks where one is for movement and one is for controlling the camera. Anybody have any input on this? I got some real “gearlust” from these custom fightsticks lol
What Philips head size is best for the 8 screws and if possible is it also doable with a flathead screwdriver? Thank you!
Is this fighting stick better than the Mad Catz TES+
Hi, can Seimitsu MS plate fit in to this stick? thanks a lot
It should fit fine, though the balltop of the lever may be shorter than expected unless you put a long shaft in it or the lever is specifically designed to fit the flat plate.
If the MS mounting plate still leaves your LS-56/-58 a bit low above the faceplate, you can buy an SS Mounting Plate P=40 now for the LS-56/-58. It installs just like the LS-32-01 does with with (also confusingly named) SS Mounting Plate.
Those SS MP's shift the joystick stack upward a bit so that the shaft clears the hole with a better height between the handle and faceplate of the joystick.
Those MS mounting plates are really only good with longer shaft joystick levers.
For years, they sold the LS-40-01 with the straight rectangular RE Mounting Plate (called the SE Mounting Plate now) but it really needed the SS Mounting Plate (same part the LS-32-01 ships with) to install with adequate faceplate clearance. It's only been the last few years that Arcade Shock has been selling the SS MP with the LS-40-01 to people who request it without charging extra! Most vendors, still sell the LS-40-01 only with the rectangular/straight MP. You have to pay extra to them for the MP that works best 95% of the time!
You really only use the straight/rectangular MP's with short-shaft joystick levers that can be installed flushed against the faceplate underside. The only time I've been able to do that is with Hori faceplates I modded. You have to do some drilling and use self-clinching M4 studs for this to work which ruins the faceplate art around the control lever! It also inevitably means getting rid of the stock (and useless for LS-32/LS-40 installations) mounting bracket. Thank goodness Hori started making ALL their joystick bases with universal mounting brackets after they introduced the HRAP V line!
@JasenHicks, how do you like the HORI Real Arcade Pro 4 Kai? How different is it from the one you're reviewing in this video?
I'm looking at a kaimana led kit from paradise arcade to use on my Hori RAP N. Will I need to solder the LED mini driver to the pcb or another tool to attach it to my pcb?
Jundem Arcade - cutting wires will be required.
i know that may sound stupid, but do you need to disconnect the cables from the buttons and the pcp to change the lever /buttons, or just disconnect it from the buttons?
Just from the part you want to change out.
I'm unable to take out the buttons they are too hard.
I have the soul caliber 6 edition. It just stopped working a couple of days ago. I guess I need a new PCB. Do they make an EZ-mod board kit for the R.A.P. N or can I install it without both soldering and the EZ-Mod ?
I dont think there is one out yet. I would email arcade shock and ask them if they plan on making one. Let me know what they say. Also I jave the same stick, the xbox version, any idea why your cob would fail?
Are you planning on having an episode about the new fighting edge?
I'd like to do an episode for a lot of the major sticks out there! Need to get some sponsors/donors to help with the costs of doing these videos, unfortunately TH-cam hasn't let me monetize these videos to help offset the costs.
coult not mount a to this joystick Seimitsu LS-32 with SS plate, the hole has no screw thread
Does anyone know if it is possible to remove the sticker from the panel without damageing it?
I have a Hori Real Arcade Pro EX-SE for the X360, it has seimitsu parts, but I was thinking of switching out the Seimitsu joystick with a Sanwa Sanwa JLF-TPRG-8BYT-SK Higher Tension Silent Microswitch Joystick. The problem is that the wiring harness goes from the onboard PCB soldered directly to the switches. How hard would it be wire the Sanwa with the built in PCB? Thank you so much for your help!!!
Just splice the wires, meaning: remove the wires from the installed lever and solder them to the harness included with the JLF so you can use the connector on the JLF and remove it whenever. Likely need to mark each wire and determine which is UP/DOWN/LEFT/RIGHT and GND first of course.
can the stock touch pad somehow connect to Brook PS4 Fighting Board + Audio?
Me & a co-worker were considering to swap the PCB in a HRAP N Tekken 7 Edition, with a Brook PCB because the stock PCB was breaking down, it couldn't boot up. And I was slightly worried that I could not get the touch pad to work if we installed a different PCB. Fortunately the problem could be resolved by cleaning some soldering tin residue around the VCC, D+ and etc that were causing problems.
KeoLiz - most likely yes with a small adapter pcb.
i hate how fragile the glue holding the nuts for the face plate screws as it will eventually drop off.
Great breakdown!
@Jasen Hicks - Do you know a place to get a compatible octagonal restrictor plate? Thanks
Darkhearts www.focusattack.com
can request for making Viewlix or Sega Astro 1P/2P layout for this stick ?
Lol awesome to see my friends stick in pieces I have IL-euro stick and generic happy button with cherry micro switches
is that a six pin connector next to the soldered joystick wires?? so i can add in a optical stick?? or no?
Yes, they have 6-pin connectors in the later Hori HRAP lines. The VLX and HRAP N both support optical joysticks. The Silent JLF and Silent Hayabusa are compatible with the base. That's for THIS generation. I can't speak to the PS3-era joysticks other than to say that if you wanted optical compatibility FOR SURE, then investing in a replacement or add-on PCB like an MC Cthulu or Brooks Fighting Board is probably a good idea. Those PCB boards have terminal positions (they're marked as VCC/5V; documentation will tell you which position to use for optical joysticks) that allow you to screw in power lines for optical joysticks. I have plans to perhaps install a Silent Hayabusa in one of the joystick cases I own that has an MC Cthulu.
Idk I use it stock theres no reason to replace anything besides the art work why recommend replacing with sanwa when these parts feel better then sanwa parts?
Cuz the stick is floaty and sometimes overshoots instead of snapping back to neutral
@@ehvaandal i would just do it for the square gate
I like square Gates, I'm a scrub that likes to slam into my diagonals and the corners make them easier to find. Consequently my Korean backslashes are terrible but I don't know if a circle or octo gate would even help that.
Are the Tekken 7 and Soul Calibur 6 Hori Sticks similar to this one? They look almost identical
They are entirely the same RAP N. The only differences are in the artwork and color of the case. That's about it.
Where do i purchase those replacement sticks for moding?.. plss help..
no worries.. saw the store in the details.. Thanks..
Hey Jasen - love your videos!
Question - I just purchased this stick and was wondering if I could replace the actual switch in the button with Sanwa SW-68 Button Micro Switches (the standard for 30mm). I like the buttons and prefer to just swap out the switch.
Dude dont swap them buttons they're better than sanwa buttons
any issues with swapping over to obs-mx switch pushbuttons?
Allen - shouldn’t be. They are standard 30mm.
Not sure why the Noir layout doesn’t seem to be appreciated much. I personally love the curvature of the layout, not to mention the separation between the stick and the buttons. My two favorite sticks last generation were my SCV and TTT2 TE’s.
There are people who like drones will NEVER deviate from what they know.
I've played with HRAP 1, Viewlix, and Astro City/Noir layouts.
Astro City/Noir is BY FAR the most ergonomic and least punishing to your hand and fingers. It follows the natural curvature of your hand and the buttons are all usable!!!!
Viewlix is FINE for a six-button configuration but over time it will fatigue you faster than Astro City. With HRAP 1 layout, the furthest 2 left buttons are almost completely unusable; most people plug/delete the buttons in that position or unplug them.
As far as the control lever goes, the Hayabusa lever included with this joystick is among the best on the market. It's my favorite Japanese control lever.
Only Sanwa fanboys say the Hori lever is bad. These are the guys that have $100 or more invested in replacement parts to make their Sanwa JLF "perfect." There's a reason there's an aftermarket for that joystick and so many alternate actuators, spring tensions, and replacement gates. The stock JLF is anything but the perfect joystick.
@@AvengerII You sound like you know what your talking about, and I was hoping you could tell me if the Hori RAP4 KAI PS4 stick has a easy way to rewire the share button or touchpad to one of the front eightbuttons? I heard someone say the last console generation had arcade sticks that you could easily detach the select/back button and reattach it to any of the front eight buttons. Did that change this console generation, where things like the share button /touchpad are hardwired inplace with PCB?
@@rebranded1248 I'm sorry but I can't help you there. I frankly would leave the PCB alone and NOT do what you're proposing. Leave the main eight 30mm buttons alone or you may be looking at a $80 repair bill (with just parts, NOT labor). My advice would be to leave the Hori PCB alone.
I barely understand the wiring business as it is. Jasens Kustoms would be a better guy to talk to about this.
My guess is that if you're decent with soldering, you MIGHT be able to do what you're proposing but check with someone who understands this PCB better than I ever would. As I've been told, a lot of rewiring and soldering depends on if a PCB is common ground. If it's not common ground, a lot of the mods people propose/want to do become much more difficult because you not only have to solder a signal line directly to the old button position you want to reuse/reroute, you also have to find the common/ground position for an electrical wire/signal line, too.
I'm not an electrician -- I can follow directions but I would NEVER tell someone to mod without checking first with someone who is an electrician and has better knowledge of gaming controller PCBs. Jasen or another electrical guy/modder would be the one to talk to about this. He's a busy guy but he might get back in touch with you if you ask nicely.
@@AvengerII Thanks man, yeah I'm not going to mess with the PCB. I was only considering it if I could just reattach the wires with the clips. I never sodered anything before, something really complex is out of the question. Appreciate you getting back to me with some info, thanks again!
It's this Hori have plexiglass ?
I was wondering if I could connect this stick to a WINDOWS 7 PC?
I didn't know Hori made a space in the stick to convert it to a Hitbox layout, interesting.
I don't think it was intentional, but I made it work to my advantage and there is now a hitbox panel available via my website!
Hey, I disconnected the 5 pin connector from my joystick to swap the art and now after re connecting, the joystick no longer works. Is there something I can do to fix this? Please help.
Sounds like you damaged something if its not working. Are you sure you plugged it back in the correct way?
Jasen Hicks I did reconnect it the right way. I ensured that tab that secures 5 pin connector on the top. I Actually got it working after I posted that. I just disconnected the joystick and reconnected again and it started working for some reason. Thank you for the video! It did help me understand the stick more !
Does someone recommend to swap the parts? It's my first stick and I would like the best possible experience.
Syrnn 【ダラ】 My personal experience with this stick has had me wanting to switch the gate to an octagonal or to an entirely new lever altogether. Not sure if its just me but its giving me issues with my quarter circles more than a budget stick would (my qanba drone).
I went with the Madcatz TE2+. It's still a square gate too and I must say, it's a little bit akward. Do you know a site that has octagonal gates available?
Would this be a good stick to buy or the Kai for someone that wants to get into fightsticks?
TrojanSalesmen - I like this better than the Kai.
could someone recommend any videos on how to install the shaft it litteraly just popped out while playing 2 days after i modded the gate and the spring but was sure everything was in right. i have a hori rap n its my first stick and ik the parts to the shaft go under the plate and microswithes but have no idea on how to assembly them any tips would be great
Look at the video from the channel
Low Fierce
There's a complete breakdown and rebuild. Hope that helps, let me know if you have any questions.
@@Eth3realwarrior thanks for the reply but i was able to figure out how to assemble it it was the clip i didnt snap it in the whole way lol but its been solid since. ty anyway though 👍
@@triiz8220 yeah those c-clips can be tricky especially if they fly across the room when snapping them in 😂
So you can't change the artwork correct?
Stikma le'Gecko -not without a vinyl printed and adhesive lined wrap.
Jasen Hicks thanks bro now I know to wait for the new Mad catz or mayflash
Stikma le'Gecko - or get a Panzer Fight Stick and out perform them all ;)
I don’t think that’s for PS4 , all the sticks I’ve seen for ps4 have the touch pad. I could be wrong. Also why are the sticks mounted with a spacer like that ? I want to build my own . If that space necessary or just with that case
This is the PS4 HRAP.N. Since it wasn't obvious, look here: th-cam.com/video/H6KKDyscAbk/w-d-xo.html you can see the touch pad.
great video mate!
Is the original stick silent while you moving it?
No, it have sounds
Im having hard time deciding what stick to get
Anyone know about swapping artwork on this? I would love to keep the artwork already on it as well, it looks sleek
You will need a hot air gun/hairdryer to remove the graphic. Very easy. Focus attack has options for custom screen prints, knobs, buttons etc...
Just bought one myself and was wondering if anyone knew the dimensions for the panel art or how to go about it, there is free commissions for anyone who can help, thanks in advanced!
Gar De focus attack
can you do next for hori mini?
There already is a tear down of this I did.
PCB looks exactly like hrap4kai version. So $50 premium for layout?
RepublicanMug - it’s a better case overall; the PCB looks similar but isn’t identical. The price is now only about a $20-25 difference depending on store.
Both models are the same price in our country
Amazing video, tbh. I wish it had come out before I bought it, but I don't regret it.
The ONE thing I HATE about the stick is the headphone jack quality. The audio sounds TERRIBLE
CaptainGiano mine sounds better than the stock DualShock 4 Audio Output
i'm having a hard time deciding if i should get a stick on not
@@TommyL514 yeah , a cheap one and hated it ...it's pad for me i hate sticks
is this better than the razer panthera?
peter griffin king of the black people - for modding yes. It offers more options to change more things.
Do the Hori Fighting Edge next
I own this stick. It is my very first stick and I am pleased with the design overall.
However, the Hayabusa stock buttons feel like tapping on 10 sheets of paper.
The sides feel loose and tend to make the button bend as a whole when pressing on the sides.
The matte finish is nice for a non slip grip on the buttons but don't feel good to press at all.
I recommend switching the buttons out for Sanwa buttons if you don't like the hayabusa buttons.
Other than that, i'm going to try to put on an Octagonal Gate to see if I like it better than the Square Gate.
I also am going to try Matte Bat top levers due to the marble finish of traditional ball top being slippery if you have sweaty hands.
Other than that, if your starting off and like this stick upon looking, your good to go.
Just buy your gate, lever top and buttons on amazon rather than buying a complete new stick if you already own this.
(Unless your Hayabusa is broken)
great video , but seeing these wires while you uncover , i dunno :(
I bought the Xbox One Tekken 7 fight stick which is the same as this one. After changing out 6 of the buttons for Sanwas I LOVE IT. I also got a Brookes Converter to use it for the PS4 and PS4 and it works perfectly. You can also easily mimic the touch pad for games that need it.
If you are thinking of picking this up, I say do it. It's easy to mod the buttons. The art though, not so easy and I haven't tried. But overall, I LOVE it. I especially like the headphone jack.
I have the America’s stick too. I also swapped out 6 of the buttons for Sanwas. As for the artwork, it’s sticker. It’s not hard to remove it. If you want custom artwork, I recommend focusattack .com .
Ran Haines Hey Thanks. Yeah I'm trying to decide if I want to get this stick for PS4 and just change the art. I like the art for the XB1 version so I'm leaving it as is.
use alcohol (spray) to easily remove the hot glue
Yup totally dissolves the bond.