Wow! You just blew me away with your practical and easy-to-follow instructions. I’m a mechanical engineer and I understand all of this on paper but don’t have the practical knowledge to tackle this daunting job…until now!! Thank you so much for sharing!!
Maybe you can answer my question 🙋🏻♀️. I purchased the same lithium batteries from Renogy 170ah 12V and they come with size 1/2” M13 stud terminals. The blue sea fuse block terminal size are 5/16” M8. How did he get them to fit? Can the terminal stud on the battery be changed? Blue sea does not make fuse blocks with terminal size M13
It's worth considering going 24v with this system. You get more reasonable wire gauge and fuse capacities, higher efficiency/wattage from inverters and solar charge controllers, etc. 24v to 12v buck converters are cheap and many 12v devices don't like to see voltages on the high or low side of 12v, so adding a regulated buck converter can save you some headaches from fans and fridges that do better with a regulated 12v supply, though many will accept 24v. You seem to not mind redoing things so maybe give it a shot if you want to see if it's an improvement :)
I'm going 900ah. I was going to go 24v except the fact no one makes a 3000w inverter/charger for less then $4000 the money saved on wiring and charge controller was heavily outweighed by that one piece. Hence I will be going 12v since the renogy 3000w inverter charger is only $800
Thank you for making these electrical videos. I keep finding videos that say they explain how to build an electrical system that turn out to only be time lapses of the work with very little explanation of what is being done or why certain decisions were made. Thank you so much for taking the time and energy to put out videos about the 'less fun' parts of building a camper van (electrical, plumbing, insulation, etc.) that might not have as much value as far as bringing in viewers like a flashy van tour might but can make these aspects of a build so much easier for newbies who are just trying to find easy to consume information about tougher aspects of a build.
I watched many videos regarding the electric/solar system and yours sir is by far the best explained video ever. Right down to the crimping and connections needed. Thank you. I’ll be plugging your video in all my van groups.
Although the rules for 240VAC installation are different here in Oz, this was probably the clearest vlog on the whole electrical approach I have seen. Nice work.
How did you attach the components (MPPT, Inverter, kill switch) to the 8020? Specifically which types of connections would be great...it's a big world of fasteners!
First - thank you for this video. With 1000Ah of battery, did you consider a second alternator (like Nation's Alternator sells) with a Wakespeed WS500 regulator to put out 280A of charging? Would really cut down the charge cycle times if you're planning on using that A/C often. I'm looking at using that setup and wondering if there was a reason you didn't do it (other than maybe cost, but that seems to be relative).
I’m planning to get that same alternator. From what I read you don’t even have to run it through a dc to dc charger. I’m not exactly sure the advantage in the 3 belt version. I guess reliability.
@Seven O Savage - I'm a specialist in Solar Technics for houses and vans in all forms. I have to say very well done. There are alwyas some things which will come up but all little things are spotted and named. Respect for it !!! At 19:41 - don't forget to insulate it around the aluminum plate with some water resistanr stuff
Great build! You may want to buy some lower 50 or 75 amp fuses for your terminal fuse blocks instead of those 300 amp ones. Since you have 6 batteries in parallel the amp draw is evenly distributed between each battery, that means your 300 amp fuses won't blow until your entire bank is pulling 1800+ amps from a dead short, that's still plenty of power to melt a wrench accidentally laid across your battery terminals.
Exactly! No tape, needs to add the thickest rubber strip that will fit. Maybe cut a 1.5 inch pvc pipe lengthwise. But insulate that Aluminum or your gonna have a fire.
16:06 Put the fuse in after the cable ;). I guess your main switch may have been isolated but best practise not to install the fuse till cable is in. Great video man! Blue sea is great stuff. I tried the amazon Chinese fuses before. They tripped 50amps lower than their rated load and got very warm.
The first fuse you connected directly off the main 'live' cable from the batteries goes as close to the batteries as possible. It is protecting the cable - stop it melting/burning and setting your van on fire. think about how you wire a house - the fuses go before the cable runs - they are not fitted inside the sockets and switches (exceptions do occur but that's another story)
This was so clear and helpful! The level of detail you included is next level!! I'm really intrigued by the cables running under the van, I don't think I've ever seen that before but it makes a lot of sense This was a great second part, thank you!
Yeah, me too. I’d be afraid (a) to drill holes in the bottom of the van and (b) that the wires would get damaged under the van. Is there any reason not to run all the wires inside the van, perhaps in an accessible channel in the floor or ceiling?
SOS, Your videos have me so hyped to start my build. You may also want to test the microwave at the same time as the Weboost to ensure you don't need a little shielding to prevent the microwave from interfering with the cell signal through the antenna cables.
Great stuff, found tons of useful information on this video, just want to point that you giving tons of misinformation as well. The 60A of charge will be distributed between all 6 batteries (10A per battery), each battery is rated for 85A charge. Next, the relays from your lights as an example of how it works are rated for 40A max, so you can not use examples as 300A. Next, all your small connectors have plastic around them, this plastic is the same as a shrink tube, you have to use your heat gun to secure the connectors, so you will not be able to pull it out. Next, just a simple piece of advice on your manual switch to charge your batteries from the alternator, this is not the best solution, because at least ones you will forget to switch it off and because the alternator is directly connected to your battery will kill your sprinter"s AGM battery. The simple solution to use power from your ignition circuit to energize a solenoid-switch via a 12v relay . In this case the power from your alternator will automatically kick in as the engine is started and it will cut the power when the engine is off. Keep up the good work. This project is very inspiring!
Quit toying with 12v inverters and go 24 or 48v. Then it'll be loads more efficient and you can run smaller wires. I have yet to figure our why rv and van people keep sticking with 12v inverters. There are more efficient systems out there.
Hi, thanks for the content. A couple of questions. Why did you decide to stay with 12v? If you were to use 24v/48v and a cheap step down for the 12v stuff that would have saved you a ton of money in cabling, Charge controller, losses, etc. And with regards to the cabling, why not just use conduit in the inside of the van and if you need to run more cables you just run them throught the conduit, no need to take anything down. Even better, just run extra cables on each destination in case you need to add more appliances. I think drilling 2 holes in the bottom of your van is not really necessary.
Fantastic video mate! Really de-mystifies how this stuff works. Not going to lie though, running cables (or anything) under the van absolutely terrifies me!
So your inverter is your automatic transfer switch? Your build is killer man. I'm a few steps behind you on my build. Thanks so much for making such great content. Your channel and OurKaravan are my two favorites by far.
So kick-ass!!! I really appreciate your putting up the detailed version!! Hell with the right softstart you can probably even power AC with this puppy!! I'm so impressed!!!👍
No way man the sub panel was an obvious but brilliant idea I never thought of! I installed all my panels in the back of my van and had to upsize a lot of wires since the runs were so long. This would have saved a ton of money in wiring and a whole lot of headache.
Excellent vid as usual! I live 20 minutes from Baja Designs and have been a very happy customer over 15 years. YES, their lights are simply the best. Step one to installing them: Throw their harness right in the trash, and make your own! :)
Love your channel! Another good use for a relay would be to act as an automatic switch. You can have your dc to dc charger turn on without having to flip a switch if You find a wire that only turns on when your ignition is in the run position.
Thought? Run wire conduit within walls before adding insulation. You can then snake wire via the conduit vs drilling though van floor or roof when adding new wires? Thanks for the video.. Very well explained.
Cool. I had heard that some fridges complain if it’s too much out of the range ... esp if you are going to do DC to DC charging and you’re pushing say 14V into the system. That’s one thing which the new Goal Zero batterybanks are doing is regulated outputs.
Maybe I missed a video, but i'd love to see a detailed video and diagram for the 80/20 part of the battery area setup... You have a well thought out and sized physical space over that wheel well and a diagram with links and dimensions for all the 80/20 things would be awesome!! Just like the electrical I'm pretty sure I could think it all through from scratch if I clubbed myself in the face long enough, but what you created with the electrical diagram and parts links was mint, and i'd love to see it for that 80/20 battery\electrical area!!! Feed me parts and dimensions and i'll click on and order all of the affiliate inks, lol! Nice job, as always!
I was working on a battery storage system the other day that had a short circuit current of 14.5 KA.......you don't drop tools or bolts when working on this system...when not more than once.
Great video, I hope you got around to adding a grommet on the 240v out cable where it runs through the sheet metal on the top of the inverter. It will gradually wear due to vibrations
At 25:36 you mention connecting a sub-panel using a cable from the battery to the sub-panel. Is it 2/0 cable or 2 awg? Couldn’t find it in electric diagram. Thanks
Just installed 6 of the same batteries in my fifth wheel. I didn’t have a chance to test it out yet with the new Magnum MSH3012RV inverter charger. I hope they will be good and last a long time.
Great build, my is just a few steps behind and also a 4x4 sprinter. I am using all redarc systems and running two dc to dc chargers side by side that will provide 80 amps charge to the battery bank. So I was a little worried when you said 50amps is max 😳 I specifically got largest alternator option (250 amps) to run both dc to dc chargers. Can you please advise where you heard this limit from 🙏 oh and let me offer something back. I would highly recommend that you run a starter battery isolator connected to the ignition that will only allow dc to dc charger to operate whilst the ignition is on. This will prevent your starter battery being drawn down if you forget to press the switch.
You should wrap all the parts of the wire that touch the sharper edges of the van in some sort of protective phone. The edges will cause tiny tears over time in the wire and you’ll start getting random shorts
Dude I agree - taking something from concept, to planning, to implementation and iteration is friggin fulfilling. Would love to know more about your background and training. Seen most of your videos and I appreciate how motivated you remains to create and construct. Cheers from Portland, Oregon.
They say that so the fan doesn’t get blocked. I was told on a phone call a few weeks ago to Renogy to just place a shelf above to prevent blockage and it’s OK.
Amazing videos. they help so much. Even though I am an electronic technician, your video's are really helpful... My favorite van builder. I can't wait to build mine in a couple years.... thanks Seven!
Nice presentation, just one thought. The 2/0 wires connecting engine batt to house batt think you said is fused at 300 amps. This I believe is to large a fuse since 2/0 wire max capacity is less than 200amps. Fuses cannot be sized greater than the wire capacity.
@Steven O Savage, did you do power draw and amperage calculations to determine wiring gauges? The cable you were showing while talking about your lighting circuit almost looked like 12 gauge wire which would be overkill if you're using LED lights. The cable shown for the fan also seemed like the same thickness as for the lighting. I was astonished when you showed the bundle of wires in the ceiling for the exterior lights...That looked like a group of wires used to provide power to a small city... 🤣
That 8020 framing sure does make for a clean install! One small comment I would make is that you may not want such long cables from the battery bank to the 3000W inverter because that thing will draw a LOT of current! Shorter is better!
Hey Seven, how were you able you connect the negative input cable from the Renogy DC-DC charger to the negative terminal of the starter battery, as you state at 36:39? It doesn't look like it's possible access the negative stud on the starter battery, that bolt is on such that it cannot be removed ... How did you manage, lol? Thanks!!
Great post and build! Those are Lithium IRON, not ION batteries I noticed. So confusing for us folks not familiar with the differences. So I researched it and here are my findings: Lithium Batteries - Not rechargeable. These are your watch batteries and similar. Not for RVs. Lithium ION batteries - Rechargeable. Li-Ion is the shorthand for these batteries. Stronger energy output, but shorter lifespan over Lithium Iron type. Lithium IRON - Rechargeable. LiFePO4 is the shorthand for these batteries. Li means Lithium. Fe is the symbol for Iron. PO4 is the chemistry symbol for Phosphate. In terms of energy levels, lithium-ion is the preferred battery for power-hungry electronic devices that drain batteries at a high rate since it has a higher energy density compared to lithium-iron phosphate. However, when it comes to discharge rate, lithium iron phosphate surpasses lithium ion. In most ways, LiFePO4 batteries are better than comparable lithium-ion batteries. Lithium iron phosphate batteries are less prone to combustion and thermal runaway, making them safer for home use. Plus, a longer cycle life means the LiFePO4 batteries will outlast lithium-ion for up to five times longer. Is LiFePO4 better than lithium ion? The LiFePO4 battery has the edge over lithium ion, both in terms of cycle life (it lasts 4-5x longer), and safety. This is a key advantage because lithium ion batteries can overheat and even catch fire, while LiFePO4 does not.
When you talk about battery wiring, it is associative like in an algebraic expression. Meaning that it will flow to and from all the batteries in the bank as if it were one. There will be no loop just because it is connected at the same end. Infact, an equalization will occur simotainiousely between all the batteries in the bank.
Great content! I've been following you since your first Sprinter. Very grateful for your time making these videos! Just be careful with the 8020 grounded on the chassis of the van :)
Hi can you explain what you mean? Ian planning on using 80/20 in a similar way. Do you mean you need to ground the 80/20 to the chassis of the van? Thanks!
I thought the same thing as Edson when I was watching the video. If you see at 9:24, the positive terminals are only a couple of inches away from the 8020, maybe even closer. The 8020 is conductive and it is presumably bolted into the frame in multiple locations, which would effectively make the 8020 frame a ground with reference to those batteries. Unless you have a fuse or DC Breaker installed on the negative side of your system, you run the risk of creating a direct short to ground and the current won't stop flowing until the BMS cuts out on short circuit detection or the wire melts. If it's only a small wire that is shorting, the BMS won't detect that as a short circuit, and your wire(s) will start glowing red hot until they melt!
@@2sherrymoore Even worse...if one of the batteries becomes loose in the mounting frame and the positive lug actually hits the 8020, the lug could get fused to the 8020 before the BMS cuts out on short circuit detection. For that reason, it is best to use wood or something non-conductive to house your battery bank.
Thank you so much for these detailed videos. Really appreciate your time and efforts to find the time to document the whole process in such detail. All the best from The Netherlands! 😊👍🏻
The directions for that inverter says not to mount it with the vent holes on top. I'm sure you have that figured out but I thought I'd mention it anyway at the risk of sounding like an annoying DIY troll
Question Seven O Savage, do you need to ground the battery bank negative wire to the van chassis? Can't the battery bank electrical system be isolated negative? If so what are the pros and cons? Thanks!
As far as I can tell the only real reason to ground to chassis is for the case of a hot wire getting exposed (due to vibration or something). If your battery bank is grounded it will cause the breaker to trip when the exposed wire comes in contact with any metal of the van.
So... Please tell me what lengths of 2 awg red and black and 3 awg red and black wire you used in the build. I'm want to know how much to order. Thanks.
You have to install a rcd on the high voltage systen for your safety, in germany its mandatory to do, especially when you install different high voltage devices.
I want to say well done on the marine grade shore power receptical, most people use that plastic crap. But just an FYI on your solar breakers, code states that the positive and negative need to be disconnected simultaneously, which means your going to need a dual pole 250v dc breaker at the recommended max amperage of your solar array.
If the "wire highway" is to get power from one side to the other, why not run the supply mains to one or more fuse boxes then branch out along that side from there? Fewer wires under the van. I would also recommend the plug (male) connectors on the device with the outlet (female) on the supply side, like the appliances in your house. And, make one lead longer than the other. For instance, make the hot longer, perhaps by 1/4" to 1/2", from the device and the ground longer, by the same length, from the supply. Not only will this help keep polarity straight if you need to unplug something, but the connectors won't be side-by-side. I like the cabinetry skills.
On the first though (replacing the wire highway with a sub panel at the destination) that’s what I ended up doing. Great recommendation on the lengths and the female/male distinction!!! Thanks Carl Knox
how are you connecting the 12/3 stranded wire to the 120 volt outlets? I’m having issues with the stranded wire and screws. Are you using some type of terminal connector?
@13:21 you can actually use the wire strippers to take off this type of wire shell. Just need the fancy wire stripers that pull it apart rather then the cheep ones that double as a crimper.
Your shore power location is the best I’ve seen!!! Can you link the aluminum box and waterproof nipple part? Also how did you attach it to your van? Is it some kind of bracket? Thank you!!
OMG thank you so much young man...your clear instructions for this wisdom is very much appreciated... at least now I know what's being used and why, what my shopping list will realistically look like and cost...I don't think I'll need 6 batteries...I had ki d of planned on 3 in case I have to use an electric toaster tupe oven and elec kettle vs a preferred propane set up...(if I need to keep oxygen in the van) from a 'what if' thought processesing... good to know it's OK to just go bigger just in case. Thanks again for sharing the wisdom this video is not too long considering a the important info you've packed into it. 😁 luv your window selections and layouts...perfect
Wow! You just blew me away with your practical and easy-to-follow instructions. I’m a mechanical engineer and I understand all of this on paper but don’t have the practical knowledge to tackle this daunting job…until now!! Thank you so much for sharing!!
Maybe you can answer my question 🙋🏻♀️. I purchased the same lithium batteries from Renogy 170ah 12V and they come with size 1/2” M13 stud terminals. The blue sea fuse block terminal size are 5/16” M8. How did he get them to fit? Can the terminal stud on the battery be changed? Blue sea does not make fuse blocks with terminal size M13
It's worth considering going 24v with this system. You get more reasonable wire gauge and fuse capacities, higher efficiency/wattage from inverters and solar charge controllers, etc. 24v to 12v buck converters are cheap and many 12v devices don't like to see voltages on the high or low side of 12v, so adding a regulated buck converter can save you some headaches from fans and fridges that do better with a regulated 12v supply, though many will accept 24v. You seem to not mind redoing things so maybe give it a shot if you want to see if it's an improvement :)
Your right, when you have mor than 400amp/hr it makes sense to go 24 v or even 48v
I'm going 900ah. I was going to go 24v except the fact no one makes a 3000w inverter/charger for less then $4000 the money saved on wiring and charge controller was heavily outweighed by that one piece. Hence I will be going 12v since the renogy 3000w inverter charger is only $800
@@build-things there are plenty of 24v inverters and charges for much less than that. They don't need to be a 2 in 1 device...
@@gustersongusterson4120 like these? www.amazon.com/48-volt-inverter/s?k=48+volt+inverter
do the buck converters defeat the purpose du e to heat loss?
Thank you for making these electrical videos. I keep finding videos that say they explain how to build an electrical system that turn out to only be time lapses of the work with very little explanation of what is being done or why certain decisions were made. Thank you so much for taking the time and energy to put out videos about the 'less fun' parts of building a camper van (electrical, plumbing, insulation, etc.) that might not have as much value as far as bringing in viewers like a flashy van tour might but can make these aspects of a build so much easier for newbies who are just trying to find easy to consume information about tougher aspects of a build.
I watched many videos regarding the electric/solar system and yours sir is by far the best explained video ever. Right down to the crimping and connections needed. Thank you. I’ll be plugging your video in all my van groups.
Thank you Maggie 🤙
I can’t thank you enough for your detailed video it surely helps, it will help sell thousands of people with their van build for their campulance
Although the rules for 240VAC installation are different here in Oz, this was probably the clearest vlog on the whole electrical approach I have seen. Nice work.
How did you attach the components (MPPT, Inverter, kill switch) to the 8020? Specifically which types of connections would be great...it's a big world of fasteners!
First - thank you for this video. With 1000Ah of battery, did you consider a second alternator (like Nation's Alternator sells) with a Wakespeed WS500 regulator to put out 280A of charging? Would really cut down the charge cycle times if you're planning on using that A/C often. I'm looking at using that setup and wondering if there was a reason you didn't do it (other than maybe cost, but that seems to be relative).
I’m planning to get that same alternator. From what I read you don’t even have to run it through a dc to dc charger. I’m not exactly sure the advantage in the 3 belt version. I guess reliability.
Great Job dude, The areas you pass thru the van are very helpful to show.
You made me convinced I can do our van build all by myself. (With a check from a pro later just to be sure). Thank you for giving me the confidence!
@Seven O Savage - I'm a specialist in Solar Technics for houses and vans in all forms. I have to say very well done. There are alwyas some things which will come up but all little things are spotted and named. Respect for it !!!
At 19:41 - don't forget to insulate it around the aluminum plate with some water resistanr stuff
Thanks Mike! Good call 🤙
Thank you for pointers for the wiring process. Showing the real world alternative on running the wiring was great.
Great build! You may want to buy some lower 50 or 75 amp fuses for your terminal fuse blocks instead of those 300 amp ones. Since you have 6 batteries in parallel the amp draw is evenly distributed between each battery, that means your 300 amp fuses won't blow until your entire bank is pulling 1800+ amps from a dead short, that's still plenty of power to melt a wrench accidentally laid across your battery terminals.
How is running a bunch of wires under the van working out? Is it working out ok? Thanks!
Yep 👍
Love the channel! However, it does scare me with how close the positive terminals are to the metal frame. Possible short circuit.
Noticing the same
Agreed. But easily fixed with a single strip of electrical tape or duct tape along that metal edge.
Looks like they are strapped down so they "shouldnt" move much, but it only takes one pot hole.
🙀😿
Exactly! No tape, needs to add the thickest rubber strip that will fit. Maybe cut a 1.5 inch pvc pipe lengthwise. But insulate that Aluminum or your gonna have a fire.
The long video is very nice. Didn't feel like 40min at all. And damn, just realized I sit my toilet for too long.
😂
Careful! Water and electricity don't mix!
I do that all the time. At least I can blame it on my Crohn's at work 😂
16:06 Put the fuse in after the cable ;). I guess your main switch may have been isolated but best practise not to install the fuse till cable is in. Great video man! Blue sea is great stuff. I tried the amazon Chinese fuses before. They tripped 50amps lower than their rated load and got very warm.
The first fuse you connected directly off the main 'live' cable from the batteries goes as close to the batteries as possible. It is protecting the cable - stop it melting/burning and setting your van on fire. think about how you wire a house - the fuses go before the cable runs - they are not fitted inside the sockets and switches (exceptions do occur but that's another story)
This was so clear and helpful! The level of detail you included is next level!!
I'm really intrigued by the cables running under the van, I don't think I've ever seen that before but it makes a lot of sense
This was a great second part, thank you!
Yeah, me too. I’d be afraid (a) to drill holes in the bottom of the van and (b) that the wires would get damaged under the van. Is there any reason not to run all the wires inside the van, perhaps in an accessible channel in the floor or ceiling?
SOS, Your videos have me so hyped to start my build. You may also want to test the microwave at the same time as the Weboost to ensure you don't need a little shielding to prevent the microwave from interfering with the cell signal through the antenna cables.
Well done on connecting the batteries in parallel correctly and noting this key connection. Really like your explanation.
Great stuff, found tons of useful information on this video, just want to point that you giving tons of misinformation as well. The 60A of charge will be distributed between all 6 batteries (10A per battery), each battery is rated for 85A charge. Next, the relays from your lights as an example of how it works are rated for 40A max, so you can not use examples as 300A. Next, all your small connectors have plastic around them, this plastic is the same as a shrink tube, you have to use your heat gun to secure the connectors, so you will not be able to pull it out. Next, just a simple piece of advice on your manual switch to charge your batteries from the alternator, this is not the best solution, because at least ones you will forget to switch it off and because the alternator is directly connected to your battery will kill your sprinter"s AGM battery. The simple solution to use power from your ignition circuit to energize a solenoid-switch via a 12v relay . In this case the power from your alternator will automatically kick in as the engine is started and it will cut the power when the engine is off. Keep up the good work. This project is very inspiring!
What made you decide to go with 2/0 wire to connect the batteries? The manual that I got with my Renogy 3000W Inverter/charger recommends 4/0 wire.
Quit toying with 12v inverters and go 24 or 48v. Then it'll be loads more efficient and you can run smaller wires. I have yet to figure our why rv and van people keep sticking with 12v inverters. There are more efficient systems out there.
Thank you for your build sharing and listing all the items! 👏
Hi, thanks for the content. A couple of questions. Why did you decide to stay with 12v? If you were to use 24v/48v and a cheap step down for the 12v stuff that would have saved you a ton of money in cabling, Charge controller, losses, etc. And with regards to the cabling, why not just use conduit in the inside of the van and if you need to run more cables you just run them throught the conduit, no need to take anything down. Even better, just run extra cables on each destination in case you need to add more appliances. I think drilling 2 holes in the bottom of your van is not really necessary.
Fantastic video mate! Really de-mystifies how this stuff works. Not going to lie though, running cables (or anything) under the van absolutely terrifies me!
So your inverter is your automatic transfer switch? Your build is killer man. I'm a few steps behind you on my build. Thanks so much for making such great content. Your channel and OurKaravan are my two favorites by far.
That electrical module made out of 8020 looks great. Good job.
So kick-ass!!! I really appreciate your putting up the detailed version!! Hell with the right softstart you can probably even power AC with this puppy!! I'm so impressed!!!👍
Seven you are my favorite perfectionist . Great job .
Ex pat based in England. First year van lifing where are you based does not look like California. Nice North Face top👍your van is spec sick 👍
No way man the sub panel was an obvious but brilliant idea I never thought of! I installed all my panels in the back of my van and had to upsize a lot of wires since the runs were so long. This would have saved a ton of money in wiring and a whole lot of headache.
Great video you covered a wide range in a short time. Best I've seen yet.
Excellent vid as usual! I live 20 minutes from Baja Designs and have been a very happy customer over 15 years. YES, their lights are simply the best. Step one to installing them: Throw their harness right in the trash, and make your own! :)
Love your channel! Another good use for a relay would be to act as an automatic switch. You can have your dc to dc charger turn on without having to flip a switch if You find a wire that only turns on when your ignition is in the run position.
Thought? Run wire conduit within walls before adding insulation. You can then snake wire via the conduit vs drilling though van floor or roof when adding new wires? Thanks for the video.. Very well explained.
oh great suggestion! thanks for contributing
You should have alot more subscribers. Youre content is solid
Cool. I had heard that some fridges complain if it’s too much out of the range ... esp if you are going to do DC to DC charging and you’re pushing say 14V into the system. That’s one thing which the new Goal Zero batterybanks are doing is regulated outputs.
Why did you run the conduit outside the van, underneath, rather than through the walls? Great vid, great channel! Thanks!
It’s just easier than drilling big holes in the sheet metal within the walls. Also you don’t have to remove ceiling/wall panels to do maintenance
Maybe I missed a video, but i'd love to see a detailed video and diagram for the 80/20 part of the battery area setup... You have a well thought out and sized physical space over that wheel well and a diagram with links and dimensions for all the 80/20 things would be awesome!! Just like the electrical I'm pretty sure I could think it all through from scratch if I clubbed myself in the face long enough, but what you created with the electrical diagram and parts links was mint, and i'd love to see it for that 80/20 battery\electrical area!!! Feed me parts and dimensions and i'll click on and order all of the affiliate inks, lol! Nice job, as always!
very detail are you planning to put the wiring diagram how everything is connected?
I was working on a battery storage system the other day that had a short circuit current of 14.5 KA.......you don't drop tools or bolts when working on this system...when not more than once.
Isn’t 2/0 only good for 175 amps? I think you would need larger wire for 300 amps.
Thanks!
Thanks so much Chris!!!
Great video, I hope you got around to adding a grommet on the 240v out cable where it runs through the sheet metal on the top of the inverter. It will gradually wear due to vibrations
THANK YOU. You are appreciated in the world. Peace!
Where did you hook up the black wire from the fuse boxes
At 25:36 you mention connecting a sub-panel using a cable from the battery to the sub-panel. Is it 2/0 cable or 2 awg? Couldn’t find it in electric diagram. Thanks
I think I just used 2awg for that
@@seven_o_savage thank you!
This is the best video I've seen on how to build an electrical system. Thanks.
Great video! Super neat wiring! Some serious juice in that van!
⚡️⚡️
Just installed 6 of the same batteries in my fifth wheel. I didn’t have a chance to test it out yet with the new Magnum MSH3012RV inverter charger. I hope they will be good and last a long time.
Very cool Alain Lacroix. I think they will!
Great build, my is just a few steps behind and also a 4x4 sprinter. I am using all redarc systems and running two dc to dc chargers side by side that will provide 80 amps charge to the battery bank. So I was a little worried when you said 50amps is max 😳 I specifically got largest alternator option (250 amps) to run both dc to dc chargers. Can you please advise where you heard this limit from 🙏 oh and let me offer something back. I would highly recommend that you run a starter battery isolator connected to the ignition that will only allow dc to dc charger to operate whilst the ignition is on. This will prevent your starter battery being drawn down if you forget to press the switch.
You should wrap all the parts of the wire that touch the sharper edges of the van in some sort of protective phone. The edges will cause tiny tears over time in the wire and you’ll start getting random shorts
Dude I agree - taking something from concept, to planning, to implementation and iteration is friggin fulfilling. Would love to know more about your background and training. Seen most of your videos and I appreciate how motivated you remains to create and construct. Cheers from Portland, Oregon.
They say that so the fan doesn’t get blocked. I was told on a phone call a few weeks ago to Renogy to just place a shelf above to prevent blockage and it’s OK.
Amazing videos. they help so much. Even though I am an electronic technician, your video's are really helpful... My favorite van builder. I can't wait to build mine in a couple years.... thanks Seven!
Nice presentation, just one thought. The 2/0 wires connecting engine batt to house batt think you said is fused at 300 amps. This I believe is to large a fuse since 2/0 wire max capacity is less than 200amps. Fuses cannot be sized greater than the wire capacity.
I was feeling pretty pumped with 400Ah of LiFePO4, this is going to be rad when it's done!
@Steven O Savage, did you do power draw and amperage calculations to determine wiring gauges? The cable you were showing while talking about your lighting circuit almost looked like 12 gauge wire which would be overkill if you're using LED lights. The cable shown for the fan also seemed like the same thickness as for the lighting. I was astonished when you showed the bundle of wires in the ceiling for the exterior lights...That looked like a group of wires used to provide power to a small city... 🤣
That 8020 framing sure does make for a clean install! One small comment I would make is that you may not want such long cables from the battery bank to the 3000W inverter because that thing will draw a LOT of current! Shorter is better!
I love that metal frame but the set up,it’s ok.
Very high quality build. Great job showing the right way of doing something like this.
Maybe a dumb question, but all battery monitors seem to max out at 500A monitoring capacity? How are you planning to monitor your system in that case?
500 amps of draw would be a lotttttt. That’s different than amp/hours which refers to the capacity of a battery.
@@seven_o_savage ah, duh. Was confusing amps for amp hours. I thought the shunt needed to be sized for the battery capacity not the max amps. Thanks!
Hey Seven, how were you able you connect the negative input cable from the Renogy DC-DC charger to the negative terminal of the starter battery, as you state at 36:39? It doesn't look like it's possible access the negative stud on the starter battery, that bolt is on such that it cannot be removed ... How did you manage, lol? Thanks!!
Great post and build! Those are Lithium IRON, not ION batteries I noticed. So confusing for us folks not familiar with the differences. So I researched it and here are my findings:
Lithium Batteries - Not rechargeable. These are your watch batteries and similar. Not for RVs.
Lithium ION batteries - Rechargeable. Li-Ion is the shorthand for these batteries. Stronger energy output, but shorter lifespan over Lithium Iron type.
Lithium IRON - Rechargeable. LiFePO4 is the shorthand for these batteries. Li means Lithium. Fe is the symbol for Iron. PO4 is the chemistry symbol for Phosphate.
In terms of energy levels, lithium-ion is the preferred battery for power-hungry electronic devices that drain batteries at a high rate since it has a higher energy density compared to lithium-iron phosphate. However, when it comes to discharge rate, lithium iron phosphate surpasses lithium ion.
In most ways, LiFePO4 batteries are better than comparable lithium-ion batteries. Lithium iron phosphate batteries are less prone to combustion and thermal runaway, making them safer for home use. Plus, a longer cycle life means the LiFePO4 batteries will outlast lithium-ion for up to five times longer.
Is LiFePO4 better than lithium ion? The LiFePO4 battery has the edge over lithium ion, both in terms of cycle life (it lasts 4-5x longer), and safety. This is a key advantage because lithium ion batteries can overheat and even catch fire, while LiFePO4 does not.
When you talk about battery wiring, it is associative like in an algebraic expression. Meaning that it will flow to and from all the batteries in the bank as if it were one. There will be no loop just because it is connected at the same end. Infact, an equalization will occur simotainiousely between all the batteries in the bank.
The wire going from the on/off switch in the dash to the dc charger- is that going into the d + on the dc charger?
Hello, I'm wandering if some of these components generates heat and noise and if yes how can you sleep/live there?
Your content is so amazing!!!!!!
Great stuff. One question: doesn't a breaker also serve as a switch? Why did you install both?
Seven ... so WHERE is the bed going for your 6'5" stud body?
Great content! I've been following you since your first Sprinter. Very grateful for your time making these videos!
Just be careful with the 8020 grounded on the chassis of the van :)
Hi can you explain what you mean? Ian planning on using 80/20 in a similar way. Do you mean you need to ground the 80/20 to the chassis of the van? Thanks!
I thought the same thing as Edson when I was watching the video. If you see at 9:24, the positive terminals are only a couple of inches away from the 8020, maybe even closer. The 8020 is conductive and it is presumably bolted into the frame in multiple locations, which would effectively make the 8020 frame a ground with reference to those batteries. Unless you have a fuse or DC Breaker installed on the negative side of your system, you run the risk of creating a direct short to ground and the current won't stop flowing until the BMS cuts out on short circuit detection or the wire melts. If it's only a small wire that is shorting, the BMS won't detect that as a short circuit, and your wire(s) will start glowing red hot until they melt!
@@2sherrymoore Even worse...if one of the batteries becomes loose in the mounting frame and the positive lug actually hits the 8020, the lug could get fused to the 8020 before the BMS cuts out on short circuit detection. For that reason, it is best to use wood or something non-conductive to house your battery bank.
How did you get the Blue Sea fuse block (5/16 ”) to fit the battery terminal stud 1/2” ?
that framing you used to build in...where did you get it?
Thank you so much for these detailed videos. Really appreciate your time and efforts to find the time to document the whole process in such detail. All the best from The Netherlands! 😊👍🏻
The directions for that inverter says not to mount it with the vent holes on top. I'm sure you have that figured out but I thought I'd mention it anyway at the risk of sounding like an annoying DIY troll
What gloves do you use? Recommendations for gloves to use while running all the electric? Thanks
Awesome video. Loved this. That 1042ah battery bank is droll worthy!!!!
I ABSOLUTELY LOVE YOU AND THIS VIDEO!Thank you so much.You saved me ,no fear of doing this myself. Keep up the good work and keep on posting😁
did you have to drill out the terminal fuse blocks? the blocks have an M10 hole in them however the Renogy 170AH batteries have an M12 post on them.
Yes I did, just used a step bit
Question Seven O Savage, do you need to ground the battery bank negative wire to the van chassis? Can't the battery bank electrical system be isolated negative? If so what are the pros and cons? Thanks!
As far as I can tell the only real reason to ground to chassis is for the case of a hot wire getting exposed (due to vibration or something). If your battery bank is grounded it will cause the breaker to trip when the exposed wire comes in contact with any metal of the van.
@@seven_o_savage Thank you!
So... Please tell me what lengths of 2 awg red and black and 3 awg red and black wire you used in the build. I'm want to know how much to order. Thanks.
Awesome video, I really do appreciate your attention to detail, very informative!
Brilliant Man! What more can be said? Peace.
Thank you so much for the video. It gave me the confidence to complete the project. Great video!
Where’d you get that rack/frame from for the batteries?
Looking forward to more DIY goodness. Thx.
Just wondering why the Renogy batteries? More cycles? I can't find 170ah but their 100ah are twice the cost of competitors.
Thank you thank you thank you! I'll be watching this again.
Have your shorepower inlet been catching on brushes when you back into parking spots?
Negative. It’s still higher than the bottom of
The frame so if It catches I have bigger problems
What are those alu rails? They look great.. and super useful..
You have to install a rcd on the high voltage systen for your safety, in germany its mandatory to do, especially when you install different high voltage devices.
whats a rcd
I want to say well done on the marine grade shore power receptical, most people use that plastic crap.
But just an FYI on your solar breakers, code states that the positive and negative need to be disconnected simultaneously, which means your going to need a dual pole 250v dc breaker at the recommended max amperage of your solar array.
If the "wire highway" is to get power from one side to the other, why not run the supply mains to one or more fuse boxes then branch out along that side from there? Fewer wires under the van.
I would also recommend the plug (male) connectors on the device with the outlet (female) on the supply side, like the appliances in your house. And, make one lead longer than the other. For instance, make the hot longer, perhaps by 1/4" to 1/2", from the device and the ground longer, by the same length, from the supply. Not only will this help keep polarity straight if you need to unplug something, but the connectors won't be side-by-side.
I like the cabinetry skills.
On the first though (replacing the wire highway with a sub panel at the destination) that’s what I ended up doing.
Great recommendation on the lengths and the female/male distinction!!!
Thanks Carl Knox
how are you connecting the 12/3 stranded wire to the 120 volt outlets? I’m having issues with the stranded wire and screws. Are you using some type of terminal connector?
Nope it was awkward I just wrapped it around the best I could
@13:21 you can actually use the wire strippers to take off this type of wire shell. Just need the fancy wire stripers that pull it apart rather then the cheep ones that double as a crimper.
Do you know if that ally channel is available in the UK?
This is super effort. I really appreciate the information you have shared. thank you.
Your shore power location is the best I’ve seen!!! Can you link the aluminum box and waterproof nipple part? Also how did you attach it to your van? Is it some kind of bracket? Thank you!!
OMG thank you so much young man...your clear instructions for this wisdom is very much appreciated... at least now I know what's being used and why, what my shopping list will realistically look like and cost...I don't think I'll need 6 batteries...I had ki d of planned on 3 in case I have to use an electric toaster tupe oven and elec kettle vs a preferred propane set up...(if I need to keep oxygen in the van) from a 'what if' thought processesing... good to know it's OK to just go bigger just in case. Thanks again for sharing the wisdom this video is not too long considering a the important info you've packed into it. 😁 luv your window selections and layouts...perfect
Can we use a editional dc or ac aultonater installed with engine as a charger
What's the size of the aluminum box that you used for shore power inlet? Thanks!!