There is something i dont understand. When using Unicolor c41 powdered deveolpment there are only 3 bottles. Dev Blix and stablizer. Ive recently learned that the Blix is short for bleach and fixer. If these 2 chemicals are separated then the process becomes Dev Bleach Fix and Stab. Do the times change for the Bleach step and the Fixer step when the chemicals are separate from each other? Developing portra 400 -120format.
Awesome! I bought my LORR kit (5L version available in Argentina) and it's arriving monday. Thanks for the numbers, I was confused with the quantities. One thing though: looks like some of the liquids are a bit thick. You may want to rinse the beaker with distilled water AND dump it into your mix, otherwise you're losing a tiny fraction of what you measured.
Thanks for the tip man! Good thinking. Best of luck in developing at home, hope it all goes well and I'm gonna grab a bottle of that spray you suggested.
@@streetzaway7556 :( my kit arrived but the seller skipped the starters. They told me it's not really necessary. "Experts" in forums say the starters are chemicals that "season" the chemical baths to simulate film that has run through the machine. They told me the first few rolls *MAY* come out "weird" (color wise, like slight shifts in color that MAY be correctable after scanning). I'll try to get the starters for the next order.
@@streetzaway7556 just finished the first roll! well half a roll actually because i just opened the camera and cut the roll when it was about halfway. the negative came out weird, but maybe it just needs drying? we'll know tomorrow. if it's still weid then probably it's the missing starter (I was told the developer will be "too hot" without the starter, and overdevelop the negative, maybe causing elevated base fog). We'll know tomorrow when I scan it. The edge print (KODAK) looks fine.
Also Amazon sells a spray called "wine preserver". It has Argon, Nitrogen or another sort of inert gas. You spray some into the chemical bottles to displace the oxygen. At the factory they do exactly that. I have a big argon tank for my TIG welder so that's what I'll be using.
In Australia they sell these little diy MIG kits for one shot welding jobs, you get an absurdly small bottle of argon/co2 (literally 400g lol) with a combined fixed pressure and flow regulator. It's a smart way of having argon inside without it posing a risk if it leaked and the cost is much less than a full size bottle lease.
One thing to keep in mind is that Kodak's tech sheet says that you need to mix those at certain range of temperatures. The developer bottles and water need to be between 21-37.8 C (70-100F), the bleach 37.8-43 C (100-110 F), the fixer 27-32 C (80-90 F), and the final rinse 21-37.8 C (70-100 F) Also to avoid cross contamination I'd get individual beakers and pitchers and everything for each chemical. Great channel! Keep up the good work!
@@streetzaway7556 get yourself Kodak's bible on c-41! If the link doesn't work then google Kodak z131. It's a long pdf with more info that you'd need. imaging.kodakalaris.com/sites/uat/files/wysiwyg/pro/chemistry/z131.pdf
Can you please explain where you got the 80, 40, 20, 30mL numbers for the developer solution? I don’t know if the initial concentrations of the A, B, and C solutions are different than what we have in the US, but I feel that LORR LU is LORR LU. For a 1000mL working solution, the math Ive done so far points to about 2/3 the volumes for A, B, and C.
Thanks! Ive been looking for a clear walk-through with the kodak c41 line up! My only question is does the concentrated chemicals store well, especially with more and more air/headspace over time?
I can can only speak from my own experience, I have been using it for about a year now and the film is still developing great. One thing I can say, is that I changed the last two batches 3 months apart because it started to smell a little funny. Just to be on the safe side but in reality, no change to how the negatives looked. So, I suspect it might have a shorter shelf life between batches, the longer you leave it. But it's been a year
Kodak have their own amounts per mix, but it's very small. Something like 2 120 or 4 135. Where I would develop a lot more than that, like 8 rolls of 120 or even more. I don't want to give you a definite answer, as it goes against what Kodak recommend, but experiment for yourself. I always get more
Great video, indeed the first one I find that explains the mixing process of Flexicolor! And really well explained How many rolls you get developed for every Lt?
I'm getting 20+ with each litre, it's been over a year now. I usually make a new batch when I see the developer go a very dark colour. But haven't had a fail yet, so who knows how far you could go. I really just change out of precaution
There is something i dont understand. When using Unicolor c41 powdered deveolpment there are only 3 bottles. Dev Blix and stablizer. Ive recently learned that the Blix is short for bleach and fixer. If these 2 chemicals are separated then the process becomes Dev Bleach Fix and Stab. Do the times change for the Bleach step and the Fixer step when the chemicals are separate from each other? Developing portra 400 -120format.
I just ordered my chemistry from unique photo here in the US. If you paid €60 consider yourself lucky especially since you purchased the 10L kit. For the chemistry and shipping I paid quite a bit more. $145 to be exact. My A, B, C are only to make 5L of developer. It's worth it in my opinion. So I'm looking at the bottles labled A, B, C and their measurements .4L, .213L, .115L respectively. Mine also specify they are to make 5L not 10L. I divided each bottle and ended up with the same measurements you provided. My starter is a 1.2L bottle. I assume the amount to add is the same, correct? Thanks for your help.
Awesome! Hope it all works out . Yea, I'm living in China, so I might be getting it a bit cheaper. Well I can tell you that I'm still using the same kit I bought in April 2019, so even at 145 dollars, well worth the money! Yea, the starter should still be the same.
I accidentally found 10L kit of similar developer. The most difficult thing to find is a developer. Starter, stop, blix and fix are easy to find by separate chemicals and there are recipes available. Wish me a good luck. Just started working with film
@@streetzaway7556 Thanks! Unfortunately I've just figured out that part C being colored as an espresso is not good at all :( Going to find a new kit or try to change part C from that man who sold it to me. I remember he has more.
For how long do those chemicals last in their original bottles? I've read online and in the kodak documentation strongly advising against it because of oxidation. My guess is that the concentrates last for a while but I'm curious. Thanks for uploading!
The Kodak guidelines are very strict, they say 4 rolls of 120 per mix. But I've used a mix more than a month old, after loads of rolls developed and still getting good results. It s really up to you, how much you want to push it. As for the concentrates in their bottles, I've had mine over a year and still using them
Thanks for the video, I have a question ,What are the times for each chemical and its order at the moment you develop? If you had any information I would appreciate it
Hello! Greetings from Mexico (: One question, how do you dispose of chemicals when they need to be renewed? and how do you know when it's time to change them? Thankyou so much for the videos
It is best to do it at a safe place if possible, talk to a local lab or city council. Flushing down the toilet being a last resort, for environmental reasons. Kodak give guidelines for how many rolls you can develop but I myself go way over it without too much change in the negatives. Thanks for the comment
Welcome! So I'm buying the chemicals online, I live in China and am using their eBay equivalent. Cost me about 60euro for the whole set and have been using the same set for a year now. I'm remaking a fresh batch each time, I know it's possible to replenish, but the cost is so little that I don't bother
I bought a kit, and they give me this: -A, B & C developers (with no starter developer) -Flexicolor RA (C-41RA) -Bleach (C-41RA) I found out that proces C-41RA are for only minilabs, so I don´t have that machine. You think that those proces c41ra can develpoe my films?
Hello! For small tank development, is a starter used? Or can it be prepared without a starter ?. What is the developer duration once prepared? Thank you!
Some people have been successful without the starter but I can't guarantee it. The developing time is 3 minutes 15 seconds. My latest video is how to develop th-cam.com/video/VU6-H8JjfMM/w-d-xo.html
@@streetzaway7556 And if I did it taking care of the proportions, of course, could I prepare only 500ml of each solution? Would the useful life of the same change?
You could do that for sure. I use 1 litre because I'm usually using a 1 litre development tank. But you want as little air as possible in the container. So don't use a large container. If you mix 500ml, keep it in a 500ml bottle.
The starter, starts the Chemical reaction. But I know some people that have developed without it and still got images. I guess you would have off tones and colour cast
Tentinal gets you 12 rolls of film developed before the chemical expires so to speak. Kodak Flexicolor was meant for more industrial use and can last a long time. The 50 euro I spent is still going after a year now with over a hundred rolls.
I live in China and was able to buy it online, on the equivalent of their eBay 'TaoBao'. Check the different online stores, I know people have been buying it different countries
Thanks so much I bought a set of flexicolor a year ago and forgot the mixing ratio until I found your video. You made my day.
Any questions about mixing it up, don't hesitate to ask. Thanks
There is something i dont understand. When using Unicolor c41 powdered deveolpment there are only 3 bottles. Dev Blix and stablizer. Ive recently learned that the Blix is short for bleach and fixer. If these 2 chemicals are separated then the process becomes Dev Bleach Fix and Stab. Do the times change for the Bleach step and the Fixer step when the chemicals are separate from each other? Developing portra 400 -120format.
Awesome! I bought my LORR kit (5L version available in Argentina) and it's arriving monday. Thanks for the numbers, I was confused with the quantities. One thing though: looks like some of the liquids are a bit thick. You may want to rinse the beaker with distilled water AND dump it into your mix, otherwise you're losing a tiny fraction of what you measured.
Thanks for the tip man! Good thinking. Best of luck in developing at home, hope it all goes well and I'm gonna grab a bottle of that spray you suggested.
@@streetzaway7556 :( my kit arrived but the seller skipped the starters. They told me it's not really necessary. "Experts" in forums say the starters are chemicals that "season" the chemical baths to simulate film that has run through the machine. They told me the first few rolls *MAY* come out "weird" (color wise, like slight shifts in color that MAY be correctable after scanning). I'll try to get the starters for the next order.
Let me know how it goes. Do you have the developing times for Flexicolor?
@@streetzaway7556 www.tmax100.com/photo/pdf/kodakflexsmalltank.pdf
@@streetzaway7556 just finished the first roll! well half a roll actually because i just opened the camera and cut the roll when it was about halfway. the negative came out weird, but maybe it just needs drying? we'll know tomorrow. if it's still weid then probably it's the missing starter (I was told the developer will be "too hot" without the starter, and overdevelop the negative, maybe causing elevated base fog). We'll know tomorrow when I scan it. The edge print (KODAK) looks fine.
Also Amazon sells a spray called "wine preserver". It has Argon, Nitrogen or another sort of inert gas. You spray some into the chemical bottles to displace the oxygen. At the factory they do exactly that. I have a big argon tank for my TIG welder so that's what I'll be using.
In Australia they sell these little diy MIG kits for one shot welding jobs, you get an absurdly small bottle of argon/co2 (literally 400g lol) with a combined fixed pressure and flow regulator. It's a smart way of having argon inside without it posing a risk if it leaked and the cost is much less than a full size bottle lease.
One thing to keep in mind is that Kodak's tech sheet says that you need to mix those at certain range of temperatures. The developer bottles and water need to be between 21-37.8 C (70-100F), the bleach 37.8-43 C (100-110 F), the fixer 27-32 C (80-90 F), and the final rinse 21-37.8 C (70-100 F)
Also to avoid cross contamination I'd get individual beakers and pitchers and everything for each chemical.
Great channel! Keep up the good work!
Cheers for that, I only have the instructions in Chinese and trying to translate with an app
@@streetzaway7556 get yourself Kodak's bible on c-41! If the link doesn't work then google Kodak z131. It's a long pdf with more info that you'd need. imaging.kodakalaris.com/sites/uat/files/wysiwyg/pro/chemistry/z131.pdf
Thanks heaps
Thanks for posting! I would really like to see a video of your development process.
Yea, I'd be glad to share
th-cam.com/video/VU6-H8JjfMM/w-d-xo.html
Can you please explain where you got the 80, 40, 20, 30mL numbers for the developer solution? I don’t know if the initial concentrations of the A, B, and C solutions are different than what we have in the US, but I feel that LORR LU is LORR LU. For a 1000mL working solution, the math Ive done so far points to about 2/3 the volumes for A, B, and C.
The kit I have, makes 10 litres, originally for large studios and labs. I make just 1 litre at a time, so I'm literally dividing each bottle by 10.
@@streetzaway7556 Makes sense. My questions exactly. How are the results?
Thanks! Ive been looking for a clear walk-through with the kodak c41 line up! My only question is does the concentrated chemicals store well, especially with more and more air/headspace over time?
I can can only speak from my own experience, I have been using it for about a year now and the film is still developing great. One thing I can say, is that I changed the last two batches 3 months apart because it started to smell a little funny. Just to be on the safe side but in reality, no change to how the negatives looked. So, I suspect it might have a shorter shelf life between batches, the longer you leave it. But it's been a year
Cheers for the vids
In your experience with your 1L mixes what’s the minimum and maximum amount of rolls you’ll develop before you make a new batch?
Kodak have their own amounts per mix, but it's very small. Something like 2 120 or 4 135. Where I would develop a lot more than that, like 8 rolls of 120 or even more. I don't want to give you a definite answer, as it goes against what Kodak recommend, but experiment for yourself. I always get more
Great video, indeed the first one I find that explains the mixing process of Flexicolor! And really well explained How many rolls you get developed for every Lt?
I'm getting 20+ with each litre, it's been over a year now. I usually make a new batch when I see the developer go a very dark colour. But haven't had a fail yet, so who knows how far you could go. I really just change out of precaution
Streetz Away Thanks for video! What is shelf life for mixed-up solutions and for concentrates? How You store it - in fridge or just room temp.?
Just room temperature, in getting about 20-30 rolls of film on one mix
do you need to heat the distilled water like when using a powered mix to dissolve the chemicals?
I've just used it at room temperature. Because it's a liquid, not a powder, it mixes immediately
There is something i dont understand. When using Unicolor c41 powdered deveolpment there are only 3 bottles. Dev Blix and stablizer. Ive recently learned that the Blix is short for bleach and fixer. If these 2 chemicals are separated then the process becomes Dev Bleach Fix and Stab. Do the times change for the Bleach step and the Fixer step when the chemicals are separate from each other? Developing portra 400 -120format.
If you click my videos, I recently did a video showing the developing times using Kodak Flexicolor.
I just ordered my chemistry from unique photo here in the US. If you paid €60 consider yourself lucky especially since you purchased the 10L kit. For the chemistry and shipping I paid quite a bit more. $145 to be exact. My A, B, C are only to make 5L of developer. It's worth it in my opinion. So I'm looking at the bottles labled A, B, C and their measurements .4L, .213L, .115L respectively. Mine also specify they are to make 5L not 10L. I divided each bottle and ended up with the same measurements you provided. My starter is a 1.2L bottle. I assume the amount to add is the same, correct? Thanks for your help.
Awesome! Hope it all works out . Yea, I'm living in China, so I might be getting it a bit cheaper. Well I can tell you that I'm still using the same kit I bought in April 2019, so even at 145 dollars, well worth the money! Yea, the starter should still be the same.
@@streetzaway7556 Thanks. Be safe out there.
I accidentally found 10L kit of similar developer. The most difficult thing to find is a developer. Starter, stop, blix and fix are easy to find by separate chemicals and there are recipes available. Wish me a good luck. Just started working with film
Let us know how you get on, Good luck!
@@streetzaway7556 Thanks! Unfortunately I've just figured out that part C being colored as an espresso is not good at all :( Going to find a new kit or try to change part C from that man who sold it to me. I remember he has more.
For how long do those chemicals last in their original bottles? I've read online and in the kodak documentation strongly advising against it because of oxidation. My guess is that the concentrates last for a while but I'm curious. Thanks for uploading!
The Kodak guidelines are very strict, they say 4 rolls of 120 per mix. But I've used a mix more than a month old, after loads of rolls developed and still getting good results. It s really up to you, how much you want to push it.
As for the concentrates in their bottles, I've had mine over a year and still using them
Thanks for the video, I have a question ,What are the times for each chemical and its order at the moment you develop? If you had any information I would appreciate it
I will be making a video of this soon
th-cam.com/video/VU6-H8JjfMM/w-d-xo.html
Great! For how many rolls does it reach you? Is the same C41-B and C41-RA prepared?
All comes as shown in the video. You are really only mixing water with them. I'm getting about 30, maybe more, with each mix up.
Hello! Greetings from Mexico (:
One question, how do you dispose of chemicals when they need to be renewed? and how do you know when it's time to change them?
Thankyou so much for the videos
It is best to do it at a safe place if possible, talk to a local lab or city council. Flushing down the toilet being a last resort, for environmental reasons.
Kodak give guidelines for how many rolls you can develop but I myself go way over it without too much change in the negatives.
Thanks for the comment
There's a company called "Wess Corporate" that recycles chemicals, here in México.
Thanks for making this video. Question, where did you buy the chemicals? Also do you reuse all of them and then make fresh or do you replenish?
Welcome! So I'm buying the chemicals online, I live in China and am using their eBay equivalent. Cost me about 60euro for the whole set and have been using the same set for a year now.
I'm remaking a fresh batch each time, I know it's possible to replenish, but the cost is so little that I don't bother
@@streetzaway7556 how many rolls are you able to develop with the 10L developer?
I bought a kit, and they give me this:
-A, B & C developers (with no starter developer)
-Flexicolor RA (C-41RA)
-Bleach (C-41RA)
I found out that proces C-41RA are for only minilabs, so I don´t have that machine. You think that those proces c41ra can develpoe my films?
Do a test roll. Worth a try. A guy contacted me saying he didn't get the starter with his kit and it still worked
Hello! For small tank development, is a starter used? Or can it be prepared without a starter ?. What is the developer duration once prepared? Thank you!
Some people have been successful without the starter but I can't guarantee it.
The developing time is 3 minutes 15 seconds. My latest video is how to develop th-cam.com/video/VU6-H8JjfMM/w-d-xo.html
@@streetzaway7556 And if I did it taking care of the proportions, of course, could I prepare only 500ml of each solution?
Would the useful life of the same change?
You could do that for sure. I use 1 litre because I'm usually using a 1 litre development tank. But you want as little air as possible in the container. So don't use a large container. If you mix 500ml, keep it in a 500ml bottle.
What could happen if I don't use developer starter? Nothing will come out? Or yes but with differences?
The starter, starts the Chemical reaction. But I know some people that have developed without it and still got images. I guess you would have off tones and colour cast
you could do it without starter?
Whats the difference between this and the Tentenal C-41 Colour Neg Developing kit? I can buy either but not sure which one? First time developer here.
Tentinal gets you 12 rolls of film developed before the chemical expires so to speak. Kodak Flexicolor was meant for more industrial use and can last a long time. The 50 euro I spent is still going after a year now with over a hundred rolls.
@@streetzaway7556 But you need the starters aswell? Or thats included in the pack?
The flexicolor stuff is supposed to give you a bit more highlight and shadow retention.
Would you mind sharing where you bought your bottles?
oh lol you said any photo site
You can search online shops..I bought mine from a Chinese site, TaoBao.
@@streetzaway7556 Thank you :)
@@streetzaway7556 Actually i can't find it. Would you mind telling me the brand of the bottles or sending me a direct link to the product online?
覆置这段话₤csWv1H3bCi9₤打开👉🍑宝👈或點击炼接m.tb.cn/h.Vnbn8CT?sm=30dc96 至瀏..覽..噐【柯达C41 美国柯达多彩组合 Kodak C41B 彩色负片 胶卷冲洗套装】
Really simple! Can you put the link of the taobao store, im currently in taiwan maybe its possible to buy from there. Thanks!
fu植这行话€fb4c1M6X6dr€打開👉🍑宝👈或點击鏈→接m.tb.cn/h.VjNpflc?sm=66ccd5 至瀏..覽..噐【柯达C41 美国柯达多彩组合 Kodak C41B 彩色负片 胶卷冲洗套装】
499 yuan, I'm still using mine 15 months later
Hello, i am from indonesia ,let me know please where can i buy that chemical?
I bought it from the Chinese website TaoBao
thx!!! very helpful
Can you tell us where we can buy the chemical? I do not see them stock anywhere
I live in China and was able to buy it online, on the equivalent of their eBay 'TaoBao'. Check the different online stores, I know people have been buying it different countries