While this is a step by step video of your work Richard, it is also a great 'how to' video for others who will benefit from watching this. This video is most enjoyable for me to watch too, and I thank you for putting this one of your rebuilding series up here for all to see. Cheers and thank you, again!
And that was it with British quality cars, beautifully, overly complex, over engineered and expensive to repair, and needed an extensively equipped workshop. By the time we reached the 1960s, motoring was reaching the masses, and cheap 'n' simple engineering was called for. They don't make them like your Jag anymore. I must say I was impressed with your dad's hydraulic piston pusher-outer! Pure genius, and so simple and obvious, so why did we mess around with compressed air to do the same job, and often failed because we couldn't hit the necessary pressure. I also have to say that you and your dad make a great team - happy Father's Day to him. I do like your down to Earth logical approach, like those brake discs (rotors?), I can think of people who would haul them out and say "No good" and fit new. I agree with you, they'll be fine once they're in use. The main thing is, you've tackled the safety critical items in the best way possible, by replacing them. I did wonder though, couldn't your hydraulic jig be used to push out the master cylinder pistons too? If you could plug the fluid reservoir supply port, surely, you'd only need to apply fluid under pressure into the cylinder outlet port - unless the piston seal was so badly degraded that you couldn't develop the hydraulic pressure?
@@Hvtesla Not so much left out, I already did the 'rot-box' comment in an earlier post in another video on this same car. I didn't want to rub salt into the wound, and it has to be said that this example has survived extremely well, aided no doubt by being operated in an environment where they don't scatter 'rot faster grit' (rock salt) on the roads. . . . Let's at least take heart in the fact that some British built cars escaped the sure and certain death of those kept in the British Isles.
Good to see you replace old with new rather than rebuild. My late father always used to tell me never take risks with brake or steering components and I have never regretted that advice. The certainty that you can stop and steer safely is priceless.
What a video trip down memory lane. Over my 35+ year ownership I've been where you are and each of your great videos are very well done. The information on the steering rack rubber block was informative & well displayed. The IRS drop was equally well done. I'm getting ready to install new front rotors/wheel bearings & calipers on my car just to replace the original units for modern driving safety. Really great the garage, equipment & mechanical experience you have to draw on from your Dad. Enjoy your Speckled Hens. Looking forward to additional videos, thanks.
I really enjoy these videos, so nice to see someone who knows what they are doing gently refurbishing an icon, well done Richard, excellent video and editing skills a joy to watch, kudos!
If you have to assemble something with an inaccessible component like that rear lower bolt, insert it in place with a temporary holder, (like a piece of duck tape, a cable tie, or a shrink-wrap) that can be pulled off or cut away once a thread or two is .engaged. (The first brake job I ever did was on my 1963 3.8 Mk II. The first corner took me 8 hours, the last 20 minutes, with an almost perfect exponential improvement in times between. :-)* )
Great video's, Back in the day the very first Rover P6 2000 had the Dunlop inboard brakes, we used to cut the floor under the rear seat to change the brakes pads, Not correct but quick and simple.
OK as you know I re watch your video's many times and always enjoy them, on this one I caught you saying you going to have some Old Speckled Hen and as I am sure you will remember I told you the correct way to drink/Prepare it I hope you will adhere to the rules :)))
Really diggin your channel, stumbled on the motor rebuild which was duly binged watched now loving the rest of the restoration! Love Love Love the red color for your etype! This car is gonna be sweet! Thanks for posting
Like stepping back in time - I worked on these in the 60s and even then Dunlop disc brakes were giving trouble seizing and they were only a few years old !
Richard, you gotta believe how difficult it is to remove that rear suspension assembly without a hoist, we did ours on the workshop floor with the rear of the vehicle elevated. We had to get 316 grade stainless steel pistons made for the rear calipers, the originals had rusted completely in and hadn't been working. The discs were toast but fortunately available, a lot bigger job than it looked. Thanks for a well detailed look at another fine job.
Richard, whilst I appreciate your dad's ingenious device to remove the brake piston I use an air line and put an old towel over the caliper to catch the piston, Less Mess and never fails :)
Hi Richard nice video like it very much. About the failsave sleeves/screws some comment: On the driver side you have two sleeves that prevents the excessive movements also preventing to loose the steering if the rubber breaks off you showed this nicely. On the passenger side you have a the same bolt but without sleeve but with an additional nut. In the instruction manual it says: Tighten the two self-locking nuts securing the two outer bolts until the flat washers under the bolt heads can just be rotated with the fingers. Turn the inner lock nuts towards the outer nuts and fully tighten. Maybe you have to point out this in the next video to adjust the steering properly.
21:35 Old Speckled Hen I trust! I say, didn't know you yanks liked good old fashion pint of English Brown Ale! Hope it's brewed by Morland, my neck of wood Oxfordshire brewery Nice watching an E-Type put back on the road.
The cylinder attached to the larger booster is the master cylinder. The other attached to the tiny vaccum unit is the brake slave cylinder of which connects with the pedal's linkage. The Opel GTs had this system also. But theirs were simpler
Interesting. I like your expertise in Jaguar. It is a marque that would need a specialist mechanic, the number of parts to an assembly and the way many of the parts go together is daunting for the ordinary! When designing any machine, engineers try to simplify components as much as possible. This makes it easy to manufacture, operate, service, keep weights and costs low. Plus there are less parts to break down.
Really informative! great to see the progress! My OCD was really wanting to come out and clean up that overspray on the springs etc. but it will run and stop great regardless!
Richard, I would have considered the Series 2 Girling brakes that give you sooooo much more stopping power and look perfectly at home behind the spokes. Also a non-crash box an EK or EJ with a 4.2 flywheel bell housing and starter. If you're not going to show it. I would be more reliable. It is always easy to spent someone else money... You're making good progress. I'm getting motivated to finish my 1964 OTS E-type in Opulescent Gunmetal. Cheers Robert Phelps 40 years of Jaguar ownership, driving, racing and restoration and consulting
Really informative video Richard. Thanks for doing these. I've not had any issues with my brakes but she's sat a spell so chances are I'll be in there soon.
You've been lucky that the rear brake rotors seemed to be nice in shape. I imagine that changing these is a little nightmare. Nice to see that all comes together now.
My '63 E-Type Jag brakes used to get soft after a matter of weeks. I had the calipers lined with stainless steel and the master honed out and then chrome plated back to zero. I had all the rear brake parts industrial chromed overall as well. Haven't had a problem in twenty years! I believe XKs Unlimited offered solid stainless steel calipers; and those would be the ticket for early E-Type Jag brakes.
@@RichardMichaelOwen I use a non-silicone brake fluid. I understand it will absorb moisture as opposed to silicone, which does not, and would create a pocket of water in the brake system.
@@RichardMichaelOwen The master was just cast iron and badly pitted inside. I had the unit honed to eliminate the pits, then given an overall chrome plate, and then re-honed the interior. Wear wasn't really the problem, it was corrosion. As for the rear brakes, they tended to rust badly, especially the parking brake assembly. The industrial chrome plate keeps them looking and working like new. Also, I gave the entire rear suspension assembly a coat of white epoxy. I know it's supposed to be black, but I'm a fan of Navy jets having all their landing gear parts a gloss white; and it just looks cool!
'Procrastinate'' you said. I don't believe you. There's waaay too much professionalism in your work and the filming. Loving the Dunlop disc details. Needing the inspiration to tackle my 1959 MGA Twin Cam (with Dunlop Discs all 'round)!
Never quite got the braking system squared away on my '68 convertible; always adding brake fluid, but never any leaks anywhere, no puddles of seepage - where did it all go? Wonkiest problem was with front brake, one side would seize up closed, and after 5-10 minutes would release. Found that the rubber hose going to that side had swelled, and was acting as a "check-valve" of sorts: applying brake pressure was enough to force fluid into the caliper, but because of the swelling, wouldn't release until it drained out on its own. I had the rears resleeved, but with mixed results. Better choice would've been replacement, as you chose... Nice to revisit the workings of the "E" through your videos !!!
Great video Richard. I look forward to watching your other videos. I just attempted pulling my master cylinder apart today but haven't succeeded yet. That's how come I'm searching TH-cam. My Series 1 E Type hasn't been on the road since 1994 and the master cylinder is badly rusted. I've got down to that nasty blue bearing but it just won't budge even with compressed air. I expect the piston and bore to be badly corroded so I think I'll be up for a complete new unit.
Good old British engineering at least we done something's right but my burning question is how the hell did you find out about Old Speckled Hen, never in a hundred years would I have you guys and an old English beer together. Love the channel Keep up the good work. Gary..... England 🇬🇧
I was wondering if you would polish the pedal box - it looks great now! I used the stainless heater return pipe too. I'm glad you cleaned up the rear hub assy's too. All that red over-spray looked bad!
when I wqs a youngster back in the early 70's I had my introduction to how good E typr brakes were I was asleep across the back seat of my uncles Etype he was on his way to the passport office in a hurry to get there and back home to get his flight to the USon the M4 across southwales , he was not hanging about when a much slower car wanders into the outside lane First I knew of it I was against the back of the front seats when I heard a few naught words as he hit the brakes hard the car slowed dramatically I allways remember him saying he was very happy that the braking matched the acceleration
Hi Richard Did the exact same thing on my 2+2 rear end over the last 4 days.... well actually 12 hrs .... it is a bit tricky with some of those bolts on the cylinders. On the 2+2 you have to drop the cage.... but on the roadster and FHC my understanding is that you can actually get to everything without taking out the cage..... mind you if you change the pipes and add the bleeders like I also did you would really need to take it out. Cheers Danny Lee
replacing pads is quick and easy while still in the car. The rest that's another story, and dropping the assembly is simple. I did it in a parking lot once.
@@RichardMichaelOwen Richard thanks! Did the mounting brackets come with the stainless pipe or were they a separate item/part #? Sorry should have asked that too! Thanks, David
Richard, you may have rusty brakes but l also have a very rusty e-type that is attached to my rusty brakes! Your shell looks in terrific condition. Has it been repainted? The drop head looked very nice as well. Guess your dad has been your mentor. Reckon this will be finished in your next video. Mine could be finished in say... Actually l can't, have about another 12 months before my TR6 is ready.
Love your channel ,I'm very suprised you went to the trouble of doing pads and calipres but did not fit new rotors ,rather silly I thought as they are not overly exspencive.
Great job - but why not get new break lines? They are mega important and not that expensive. I know it is a pain to run them round the bodywork but safety first.
Those brakes are not at all like my Ford Mustang GT!! Lol!! I love the way these machines are set up n put together !! Truly beautiful looking machines!! Lov ur skills with these machines!!
There must be literally thousands of hot rods around the world all over that are sporting one of those Jag rear ends, unfortunately some came from E types, but most came from the old Mk 10's and 420 G's, that rear suspension is a beautiful piece of engineering, if not a little over complicated.
@@gazzafloss Mite be all over the world but none in southeast Kentucky USA that I've got to work on even to front calibers R beautiful designed!! These jaguars are to me the most beautiful machines !!
Every E type owner from the 60's loved their (relatively cheap) car to death - until it needed any kind of maintenance - which it wasn't designed for... The engineers at Jaguar's left access last on the list and it shows - when they found out you have to actually pull the whole engine and trans as a unit just to change the clutch - and the same thing with the rear brakes - the gild was off the lily then alright
The UK 3.4 & 3.8L 'S' type saloons used the same basic subframe - a nightmare to work on in the car. I seem to recall, although not certain (it was 45 + years ago), that the handbrake (I think its called 'safety brake' in the US?) used separate pads?
Fascinating vid on stuff I could never do :). You often mention tips your dad suggested, what is his history with Jags? Might make an interesting video :)
It appears his dad is the expert and he is learning still from his dad. I would have loved that 40 years ago when I had a '70 type II coupe. I did all the work myself including engine overhaul. Wish I still had it.
Richard love your videos. Very informative. Short question. What remote bleeders for the rear did you use. There is this 200 eur one at SNG but imho they are just two simple lines right? Would need 24 UNF though that makes it hard to find here. Thanks.
Did you address the handbrake pads or is it a cage out job? In the UK the handbrake is tested on a rolling meter and these are very fickle to get right once the leading edge is worn.
Hi Richard Do you make your own replacement brake pipes - see new lower pipe @ 5.22 ? What do you use if not copper nickel? Or do you buy pattern OEM ? Colin
I know almost nothing about Jaguars but that rear subframe suspension is surely race car derived. Strangely enough just a few days ago this video came out about Norman Dewis the Jaguar test driver, seems to indicate (if I'm understanding correctly) that the design of the E type was derived from the XK SS and D Type so it was an evolution of what they'd been working on and the way race cars generally were going. th-cam.com/video/p_dzGvWZm38/w-d-xo.html
That correct, the idea was that owners could buy a reasonbly priced car they could use as a daily or take to sporting events and compete ,plus the speed attained by the XKE was so high that safety had to be engineered into the cars suspension.
Greatly enjoying your videos on the E-type! However, you didn't talk about doing anything with the emergency brake. Once you had the rear end out of the car to repair the brakes, this would have been just good practice. Or did you actually service the emergency brake and not video it? I'm being selfish here since the emergency brake on my e-type is not working and I was sure looking forward to any tips you might have had! Keep doing the videos! They are great and super helpful to us amateur mechanics that like to work on our Jags! Cheers
I checked it for operation, but since I didn't rip it right apart there was little access to do much. I left the factory adjustment that had lockwire through it.
@@RichardMichaelOwen Ok; non setting I assume. You're fortunate to learn from and work with your gentle looking Dad. I had a very capable Dad; who's passed on; but wife and I miss him all the time. enjoy while they're around :) :) :)
@@RichardMichaelOwen ok but are they the same as on an xj6? I wanted to change that on our 420G which also has Dunlop calipers but that didn't work so I also used the dif and the carrier from an xj6.
While this is a step by step video of your work Richard, it is also a great 'how to' video for others who will benefit from watching this.
This video is most enjoyable for me to watch too, and I thank you for putting this one of your rebuilding series up here for all to see.
Cheers and thank you, again!
And that was it with British quality cars, beautifully, overly complex, over engineered and expensive to repair, and needed an extensively equipped workshop. By the time we reached the 1960s, motoring was reaching the masses, and cheap 'n' simple engineering was called for. They don't make them like your Jag anymore.
I must say I was impressed with your dad's hydraulic piston pusher-outer! Pure genius, and so simple and obvious, so why did we mess around with compressed air to do the same job, and often failed because we couldn't hit the necessary pressure. I also have to say that you and your dad make a great team - happy Father's Day to him.
I do like your down to Earth logical approach, like those brake discs (rotors?), I can think of people who would haul them out and say "No good" and fit new. I agree with you, they'll be fine once they're in use. The main thing is, you've tackled the safety critical items in the best way possible, by replacing them.
I did wonder though, couldn't your hydraulic jig be used to push out the master cylinder pistons too? If you could plug the fluid reservoir supply port, surely, you'd only need to apply fluid under pressure into the cylinder outlet port - unless the piston seal was so badly degraded that you couldn't develop the hydraulic pressure?
You left out the fact they liked to rust as well - especially Jags in my personal experiance! lol
@@Hvtesla Not so much left out, I already did the 'rot-box' comment in an earlier post in another video on this same car. I didn't want to rub salt into the wound, and it has to be said that this example has survived extremely well, aided no doubt by being operated in an environment where they don't scatter 'rot faster grit' (rock salt) on the roads. . . . Let's at least take heart in the fact that some British built cars escaped the sure and certain death of those kept in the British Isles.
Good to see you replace old with new rather than rebuild. My late father always used to tell me never take risks with brake or steering components and I have never regretted that advice. The certainty that you can stop and steer safely is priceless.
What a video trip down memory lane. Over my 35+ year ownership I've been where you are and each of your great videos are very well done. The information on the steering rack rubber block was informative & well displayed. The IRS drop was equally well done. I'm getting ready to install new front rotors/wheel bearings & calipers on my car just to replace the original units for modern driving safety. Really great the garage, equipment & mechanical experience you have to draw on from your Dad. Enjoy your Speckled Hens. Looking forward to additional videos, thanks.
Thanks for watching joey. You could also consider new stub axles and wheel bearings
Richard makes everything seem so straightforward and simple, that's a sure sign of a craftsman.
Thank you Richard. Your segments are superb and informative. please keep on doing them, they help with any type restoration.
I really enjoy these videos, so nice to see someone who knows what they are doing gently refurbishing an icon, well done Richard, excellent video and editing skills a joy to watch, kudos!
Thanks Alistair, great to have you along.
If you have to assemble something with an inaccessible component like that rear lower bolt, insert it in place with a temporary holder, (like a piece of duck tape, a cable tie, or a shrink-wrap) that can be pulled off or cut away once a thread or two is .engaged.
(The first brake job I ever did was on my 1963 3.8 Mk II. The first corner took me 8 hours, the last 20 minutes, with an almost perfect exponential improvement in times between. :-)* )
Love watching Richard and the Jaguars
Great video's, Back in the day the very first Rover P6 2000 had the Dunlop inboard brakes, we used to cut the floor under the rear seat to change the brakes pads, Not correct but quick and simple.
OK as you know I re watch your video's many times and always enjoy them, on this one I caught you saying you going to have some Old Speckled Hen and as I am sure you will remember I told you the correct way to drink/Prepare it I hope you will adhere to the rules :)))
Really diggin your channel, stumbled on the motor rebuild which was duly binged watched now loving the rest of the restoration! Love Love Love the red color for your etype! This car is gonna be sweet! Thanks for posting
same story here. Enjoying the pragmatism :-)
Like stepping back in time - I worked on these in the 60s and even then Dunlop disc brakes were giving trouble seizing and they were only a few years old !
Richard, you gotta believe how difficult it is to remove that rear suspension assembly without a hoist, we did ours on the workshop floor with the rear of the vehicle elevated. We had to get 316 grade stainless steel pistons made for the rear calipers, the originals had rusted completely in and hadn't been working. The discs were toast but fortunately available, a lot bigger job than it looked.
Thanks for a well detailed look at another fine job.
Oh wow, Jaguar IRS rebuild with a hoist? What a herculean task!!
Richard, whilst I appreciate your dad's ingenious device to remove the brake piston I use an air line and put an old towel over the caliper to catch the piston, Less Mess and never fails :)
Hi Richard nice video like it very much. About the failsave sleeves/screws some comment: On the driver side you have two sleeves that prevents the excessive movements also preventing to loose the steering if the rubber breaks off you showed this nicely. On the passenger side you have a the same bolt but without sleeve but with an additional nut. In the instruction manual it says: Tighten the two self-locking nuts securing the two outer bolts until the flat washers under the bolt heads can just be rotated with the fingers. Turn the inner lock nuts towards the outer nuts and fully tighten. Maybe you have to point out this in the next video to adjust the steering properly.
Thanks very much for this video. It answered many questions i had concerning brakes in an E-type that has sat a long time.
21:35 Old Speckled Hen I trust! I say, didn't know you yanks liked good old fashion pint of English Brown Ale! Hope it's brewed by Morland, my neck of wood Oxfordshire brewery Nice watching an E-Type put back on the road.
Do not think he is a "yank". Unless he moved from the USA to Canada of course.
@@boyev You are absolutely right. I apologize. My mistake, permit me to blame the D Day celebration and old wartime movies.
The cylinder attached to the larger booster is the master cylinder. The other attached to the tiny vaccum unit is the brake slave cylinder of which connects with the pedal's linkage. The Opel GTs had this system also. But theirs were simpler
Interesting. I like your expertise in Jaguar. It is a marque that would need a specialist mechanic, the number of parts to an assembly and the way many of the parts go together is daunting for the ordinary!
When designing any machine, engineers try to simplify components as much as possible. This makes it easy to manufacture, operate, service, keep weights and costs low. Plus there are less parts to break down.
I can never wait for the next episode !
Really informative! great to see the progress! My OCD was really wanting to come out and clean up that overspray on the springs etc. but it will run and stop great regardless!
Great video Richard. Helped with lots of tips and tricks. Cheers
Richard,
I would have considered the Series 2 Girling brakes that give you sooooo much more stopping power and look perfectly at home behind the spokes. Also a non-crash box an EK or EJ with a 4.2 flywheel bell housing and starter. If you're not going to show it. I would be more reliable. It is always easy to spent someone else money... You're making good progress. I'm getting motivated to finish my 1964 OTS E-type in Opulescent Gunmetal.
Cheers Robert Phelps
40 years of Jaguar ownership, driving, racing and restoration and consulting
Couldn't find any in time.
Really informative video Richard. Thanks for doing these. I've not had any issues with my brakes but she's sat a spell so chances are I'll be in there soon.
Another great video, Richard. Thanks!
You've been lucky that the rear brake rotors seemed to be nice in shape. I imagine that changing these is a little nightmare. Nice to see that all comes together now.
Can be done once drive shaft is disconnected and spring units removed but makes taking the cage out more viable.
Barn door engineering at its finest. I like the color differentiation in a otherwise black engine compartment.
My '63 E-Type Jag brakes used to get soft after a matter of weeks. I had the calipers lined with stainless steel and the master honed out and then chrome plated back to zero. I had all the rear brake parts industrial chromed overall as well. Haven't had a problem in twenty years! I believe XKs Unlimited offered solid stainless steel calipers; and those would be the ticket for early E-Type Jag brakes.
Mixing DOT4 and silicon fluids can do this to rubber seals. The entire system has to be 100% replaced for a switch. Does your car run silicon?
@@RichardMichaelOwen I use a non-silicone brake fluid. I understand it will absorb moisture as opposed to silicone, which does not, and would create a pocket of water in the brake system.
@@mtacoustic1 i've never chrome plated original units, it helps with wear?
@@RichardMichaelOwen The master was just cast iron and badly pitted inside. I had the unit honed to eliminate the pits, then given an overall chrome plate, and then re-honed the interior. Wear wasn't really the problem, it was corrosion. As for the rear brakes, they tended to rust badly, especially the parking brake assembly. The industrial chrome plate keeps them looking and working like new. Also, I gave the entire rear suspension assembly a coat of white epoxy. I know it's supposed to be black, but I'm a fan of Navy jets having all their landing gear parts a gloss white; and it just looks cool!
Great job Richard on an awesome car ! My all time, lifelong dream car.
PS You upgraded your video and editing in a spectacular way !! Kudos !
With you all the way...very interesting and totally inspiring. Thanks.
Great video and very informative. It gives me motivation to do my rear of the car.
The XK E is, in my opinion one of the prettiest cars ever made. Even Enzo Ferrari admired it.
'Procrastinate'' you said. I don't believe you. There's waaay too much professionalism in your work and the filming.
Loving the Dunlop disc details. Needing the inspiration to tackle my 1959 MGA Twin Cam (with Dunlop Discs all 'round)!
Never quite got the braking system squared away on my '68 convertible; always adding brake fluid, but never any leaks anywhere, no puddles of seepage - where did it all go?
Wonkiest problem was with front brake, one side would seize up closed, and after 5-10 minutes would release. Found that the rubber hose going to that side had swelled, and was acting as a "check-valve" of sorts: applying brake pressure was enough to force fluid into the caliper, but because of the swelling, wouldn't release until it drained out on its own. I had the rears resleeved, but with mixed results. Better choice would've been replacement, as you chose...
Nice to revisit the workings of the "E" through your videos !!!
Amazing how one flexible line can bring a whole system to its knees. Thanks for watching
Great video Richard. I look forward to watching your other videos. I just attempted pulling my master cylinder apart today but haven't succeeded yet. That's how come I'm searching TH-cam. My Series 1 E Type hasn't been on the road since 1994 and the master cylinder is badly rusted. I've got down to that nasty blue bearing but it just won't budge even with compressed air. I expect the piston and bore to be badly corroded so I think I'll be up for a complete new unit.
Yeah these master cylinder's aren't the type that is easily repaired.
Thanks Richard. I ended up buying a brand new Lockheed unit from UK. It turned out cheaper than sleeving and re-kitting mine here in Australia.
Good old British engineering at least we done something's right but my burning question is how the hell did you find out about Old Speckled Hen, never in a hundred years would I have you guys and an old English beer together. Love the channel Keep up the good work.
Gary..... England 🇬🇧
The old speckled one was the name of the work truck at the MG factory. It was speckled with various shades of paint.
Gary Ashdown , it is pretty available here in Canada and a go to when for me a least when I feel like a bit of nostalgia coming on!
I was wondering if you would polish the pedal box - it looks great now! I used the stainless heater return pipe too. I'm glad you cleaned up the rear hub assy's too. All that red over-spray looked bad!
Hi John, I used paint stripper on it, thanks for watching.
when I wqs a youngster back in the early 70's I had my introduction to how good E typr brakes were I was asleep across the back seat of my uncles Etype he was on his way to the passport office in a hurry to get there and back home to get his flight to the USon the M4 across southwales , he was not hanging about when a much slower car wanders into the outside lane First I knew of it I was against the back of the front seats when I heard a few naught words as he hit the brakes hard the car slowed dramatically I allways remember him saying he was very happy that the braking matched the acceleration
Outstanding quality video and work
My old 240D had bad brakes. It turned out it had only been stopping with the front wheels for a long time. Rear brake lines were clogged solid.
@Richard Michael Owen Old Speckled Hen is nice. Maybe you would also like Old Crafty Hen from the same brewer. Great vids. Thanks.
My '99 mercedes rear suspension is a lot like this, only with the brakes outboard where they're easier to work on.
Hi Richard
Did the exact same thing on my 2+2 rear end over the last 4 days.... well actually 12 hrs .... it is a bit tricky with some of those bolts on the cylinders. On the 2+2 you have to drop the cage.... but on the roadster and FHC my understanding is that you can actually get to everything without taking out the cage..... mind you if you change the pipes and add the bleeders like I also did you would really need to take it out.
Cheers
Danny Lee
Removing the cage was so easy, I would do it again
replacing pads is quick and easy while still in the car. The rest that's another story, and dropping the assembly is simple. I did it in a parking lot once.
Great video Richard! Where did you source the long stainless cooling tube under the intake shown at about 11:26? Thanks!
SNG BARRATT part C24311SS made by BELL
@@RichardMichaelOwen Richard thanks! Did the mounting brackets come with the stainless pipe or were they a separate item/part #? Sorry should have asked that too!
Thanks, David
@@davidreva2209 brackets are separate
@@RichardMichaelOwen Richard thanks I'll check with SNG on the brackets!
Richard, you may have rusty brakes but l also have a very rusty e-type that is attached to my rusty brakes! Your shell looks in terrific condition. Has it been repainted? The drop head looked very nice as well. Guess your dad has been your mentor. Reckon this will be finished in your next video. Mine could be finished in say... Actually l can't, have about another 12 months before my TR6 is ready.
TR6 and an E Type? My 2 favourite British classics...
John, thanks for watching. This car has been painted twice.
Love your channel ,I'm very suprised you went to the trouble of doing pads and calipres but did not fit new rotors ,rather silly I thought as they are not overly exspencive.
Great job - but why not get new break lines?
They are mega important and not that expensive.
I know it is a pain to run them round the bodywork but safety first.
Yeah I did make a few of them, cleaned the rest. There are only so many hours in a day.
Why replace them if they're ok ?? Trust this man, he knows what he's doing.
brake not break lines
Always replace those pedal box return springs if you have the box out of the car. They're cheap and it only takes a few more minutes to replace them.
If you want to move up from Old Speckled Hen, try Ringwood 49er!
haha! Love the Seven reference.
Those brakes are not at all like my Ford Mustang GT!! Lol!! I love the way these machines are set up n put together !! Truly beautiful looking machines!! Lov ur skills with these machines!!
There must be literally thousands of hot rods around the world all over that are sporting one of those Jag rear ends, unfortunately some came from E types, but most came from the old Mk 10's and 420 G's, that rear suspension is a beautiful piece of engineering, if not a little over complicated.
@@gazzafloss Mite be all over the world but none in southeast Kentucky USA that I've got to work on even to front calibers R beautiful designed!! These jaguars are to me the most beautiful machines !!
Every E type owner from the 60's loved their (relatively cheap) car to death - until it needed any kind of maintenance - which it wasn't designed for... The engineers at Jaguar's left access last on the list and it shows - when they found out you have to actually pull the whole engine and trans as a unit just to change the clutch - and the same thing with the rear brakes - the gild was off the lily then alright
The UK 3.4 & 3.8L 'S' type saloons used the same basic subframe - a nightmare to work on in the car. I seem to recall, although not certain (it was 45 + years ago), that the handbrake (I think its called 'safety brake' in the US?) used separate pads?
Yes, the handbrake assembly sits on top of the caliper and is even harder to reach.
Fascinating vid on stuff I could never do :). You often mention tips your dad suggested, what is his history with Jags? Might make an interesting video :)
It appears his dad is the expert and he is learning still from his dad. I would have loved that 40 years ago when I had a '70 type II coupe. I did all the work myself including engine overhaul. Wish I still had it.
Old Speckled Hen.......So Richard knows his beer besides his cars.
Great brake job.
XK 150 update???????
Change those 2 pots to 4 pots and have flexible stainless steel hoses on the wheels.
Richard love your videos. Very informative. Short question. What remote bleeders for the rear did you use. There is this 200 eur one at SNG but imho they are just two simple lines right? Would need 24 UNF though that makes it hard to find here. Thanks.
They are just simple lines, yes, and two brackets. Thanks for watching.
Super vidéo du travail
Did you address the handbrake pads or is it a cage out job? In the UK the handbrake is tested on a rolling meter and these are very fickle to get right once the leading edge is worn.
Adam, I only put some oil around the pivot points.
super cool helps me a lot thanks
remind me a little about tesla s rear wheel drive unit
Hi Richard Do you make your own replacement brake pipes - see new lower pipe @ 5.22 ? What do you use if not copper nickel? Or do you buy pattern OEM ? Colin
Excellent Video! I'
I'm starting to do the same job on my 63 E-type... Where did you source the TRW parts from?? Definitely looks like the way to go..
Surprised you didn't replace the pedal shaft bushings while you had it out.
Yes, that is a very good point. High-mileage cars almost always need this. Thanks for watching.
I know almost nothing about Jaguars but that rear subframe suspension is surely race car derived. Strangely enough just a few days ago this video came out about Norman Dewis the Jaguar test driver, seems to indicate (if I'm understanding correctly) that the design of the E type was derived from the XK SS and D Type so it was an evolution of what they'd been working on and the way race cars generally were going.
th-cam.com/video/p_dzGvWZm38/w-d-xo.html
That correct, the idea was that owners could buy a reasonbly priced car they could use as a daily or take to sporting events and compete ,plus the speed attained by the XKE was so high that safety had to be engineered into the cars suspension.
Need to find calipers for 1965 3.8s, tried to find the TRW Site you mentioned, what is the URL?
Would you put on replace the anti sway bar with a heavier unit ?
Those channel lock pliers must be imperial yes ?
Great things from Knipex, essential.
Greatly enjoying your videos on the E-type! However, you didn't talk about doing anything with the emergency brake. Once you had the rear end out of the car to repair the brakes, this would have been just good practice. Or did you actually service the emergency brake and not video it? I'm being selfish here since the emergency brake on my e-type is not working and I was sure looking forward to any tips you might have had!
Keep doing the videos! They are great and super helpful to us amateur mechanics that like to work on our Jags! Cheers
I checked it for operation, but since I didn't rip it right apart there was little access to do much. I left the factory adjustment that had lockwire through it.
I thought you were not going to paint it or were the last couple of shots of another restoration?
Different car
Yeah that last bit was just for illustration. It also shows an S2 with the larger calipers and different line routing.
Caliper is the assembly
It’s early in the morning but did you hit the knockoff with a wrench?
I think it was a lead mallet...
old nasty lead hammer
steel line is on the wrong way--bleeder has always been on the outside top, nearest the wheel
sweet
You forgot to lubricate the clevis pins on the handbrake levers !
Fit Volvo 240 calipers - straight fit and twice the brakes.
I've heard of this upgrade with slightly different brake line routing. Very similar to S2 setup
I use silicone brake fluid on all my restorations ! . No muss no fuss !! :) What's dum dum putty please Richard ?
It's like chewing gum for automotive application.
@@RichardMichaelOwen Ok; non setting I assume. You're fortunate to learn from and work with your gentle looking Dad. I had a very capable Dad; who's passed on; but wife and I miss him all the time. enjoy while they're around :) :) :)
the axle on the table has XJ6 brake calipers, what do you have to adjust for that?
Hi Jean those are S2 calipers.
@@RichardMichaelOwen ok but are they the same as on an xj6? I wanted to change that on our 420G which also has Dunlop calipers but that didn't work so I also used the dif and the carrier from an xj6.
I saw somewhere that the first design of the IRS was for the Mk10 ..... the the Etype IRS evolved from that .... anybody else know the story ...?
Nice overspray everywhere.
Your clutch return spring was broken FYI, should have two legs.
Great job. Thanks for the vid..
Sssxx
@ the car
Yeh, a small tip, make sure you wear a hat installing those rear brake piston assemblies , or you may find yourself bald by the time you finish!
👍job...
LOL...you should have removed that plastic strip from the brake master cylinder before you painted it !! :)
A P products, of Royal Leamington spa Tachbrook U K ..
No drips from the rear end...? How unBritish!
The diff was empty!
Designed by highly experienced professional engineers, built by chippy English unionised communists on the BL assembly line 😩😫😫 😭😭😭