Because of Matt at Texas Toast, I built my own pin router using an old radial arm saw as the lift mechanism. Cutting out the outline of a guitar on a slab of wood, each depth increase can leave a tiny line where the bit deflects slightly as the wood pushes into it laterally. Cutting to a shallow depth to establish the outline, then completing the routing on a table router vastly improves the quality of the surface. I suspect thats why.
I suspect in your case the line is a result of a slight movement of the pin or even wear of the jig(less likely). I exclusively used a pin router (old school porter cast iron with a foot lever operated table and stationary spindle) and while there was a noticeable mark of each depth pass it was not really felt and just sanded out. I used a template to make the first depth outline of the body and then used that outline as the template, flipping the body upside down and guiding it through the router from the reverse side. It also eliminates the concern of router bit from touching the pin if the original route is deep enough to complete the final route without being within striking distance from the pin. Once again, there seems to be no right or wrong way to accomplish the result you want in life, woodworking or anything else.
I've been rubbing three coats of Johnson paste wax into the index pins before glue up. Also use a q-tip to get some paste wax in the index holes. After the glue dries the pins still pop out with the tap of a mallet. I don't worry about using tape.
A couple of foam rubber type blocks in the middle sitting slightly higher than the outer perimeter, could help to compress the middle down while clamping, I have done something like this in the past and it can save using screws in the middle. 💜💜💜💜💜💜 Satah
Very cool Matt!!! Your content choices make we want to get right back into the shop and make some more sawdust. I am hoping to get back down for another shop visit in the near future, keep up the good work. Please say "Hay" to Chris and Joy! 🙂
I always find that those glue rollers work good the first time, and then after that they don't roll very well so they don't leave as much of a layer of glue as I'd like. 😒 If you have tips for keeping them working smoothly (other than "wash them" because...well...duh), I'm all ears.
Really interesting to see how much that top had moved post carving. I understand the sanding was done in tiny increments, but having seen Steve’s obsession with accuracy, I know that would have been perfect when it came off his equipment. Presumably, this kind of system could also be used for your own carved top models, rather than using your copy carver?
PS - every video I watch of you actually working on guitars in your shop, it occurs to me just how many $$$ were invested in equipping it with machine tools - hell even benches. That kind of.. faith in your abilities impresses me, and is one of the things that make me hope for your success. 👍🏽🙃
I bet that press is cheap enough to compete with the price of clamps alone, and then on top of that it's more convenient for many wood working projects.
That's a great question... I honestly don't know why. When you think about it the Les Paul had lots of crazy lingo. Like the switch positions of treble and rythem. This don't exactly go together either. You have stumped me my friend
Because of Matt at Texas Toast, I built my own pin router using an old radial arm saw as the lift mechanism. Cutting out the outline of a guitar on a slab of wood, each depth increase can leave a tiny line where the bit deflects slightly as the wood pushes into it laterally. Cutting to a shallow depth to establish the outline, then completing the routing on a table router vastly improves the quality of the surface. I suspect thats why.
DANG. I gave my old RAS away... it sucked as a saw but I should have been thinking "pin router" too. Great idea!
I suspect in your case the line is a result of a slight movement of the pin or even wear of the jig(less likely).
I exclusively used a pin router (old school porter cast iron with a foot lever operated table and stationary spindle) and while there was a noticeable mark of each depth pass it was not really felt and just sanded out.
I used a template to make the first depth outline of the body and then used that outline as the template, flipping the body upside down and guiding it through the router from the reverse side. It also eliminates the concern of router bit from touching the pin if the original route is deep enough to complete the final route without being within striking distance from the pin.
Once again, there seems to be no right or wrong way to accomplish the result you want in life, woodworking or anything else.
I love watching guitars being built, so I hope you make videos all the way until this guitar is ready to rock!
We might, it depends on the number of views we get on these
@@TexasToastGuitars Maybe I’ll just watch the video a couple of thousand times just to make sure you film the build to the end.
I've been rubbing three coats of Johnson paste wax into the index pins before glue up. Also use a q-tip to get some paste wax in the index holes. After the glue dries the pins still pop out with the tap of a mallet. I don't worry about using tape.
I think you have come this far with the series keep it going to the end. 😁
Then why would anyone come to my workshops?
@@TexasToastGuitars good thinking. However you did ask.
Loving this series making les Paul’s!
Thanks Mike
Really digging this series!
Cool man, thanks for watching
Do that finishing routing video. Add the build a Les Paul style guitar class into the rotation so I have to force myself to save up for a class.
Hmmm I already did the routes on this one and wasn't planning on doing a video. You should still sign up for the workshop
A printers brayer is my favorite glue spreader. Thanks for the video.
You are so welcome!
A couple of foam rubber type blocks in the middle sitting slightly higher than the outer perimeter, could help to compress the middle down while clamping, I have done something like this in the past and it can save using screws in the middle. 💜💜💜💜💜💜 Satah
The screws works really well
Thanks Matt, do more this is Great!!!
I think we will do a few more of these
Love it...most guitars are just 2d planks....love the carved top
Right on!
Yeah, this is great. Very nice Matt.
Thank you Donald
Very cool Matt!!! Your content choices make we want to get right back into the shop and make some more sawdust. I am hoping to get back down for another shop visit in the near future, keep up the good work. Please say "Hay" to Chris and Joy! 🙂
Will do
The rubber roller is called a “brayer.” 😃
I always find that those glue rollers work good the first time, and then after that they don't roll very well so they don't leave as much of a layer of glue as I'd like. 😒
If you have tips for keeping them working smoothly (other than "wash them" because...well...duh), I'm all ears.
Really interesting to see how much that top had moved post carving. I understand the sanding was done in tiny increments, but having seen Steve’s obsession with accuracy, I know that would have been perfect when it came off his equipment.
Presumably, this kind of system could also be used for your own carved top models, rather than using your copy carver?
PS - every video I watch of you actually working on guitars in your shop, it occurs to me just how many $$$ were invested in equipping it with machine tools - hell even benches. That kind of.. faith in your abilities impresses me, and is one of the things that make me hope for your success. 👍🏽🙃
You might be surprised at how much this moves even on the CNC
We have squeeze out.
Is Steve going to be offering these precarved tops on his website?
I think so... of course, he would be the one to ask.
Would really like to see at least one of these with pickup holes and neck pocket routed ; or better yet all the way through paint !
I will probably show off some of that. Of course, the reason for these videos is to encourage people to come to the workshops
I was encouraged, see you in December.
Heads up, your website is unreadable on mobile. iPad at least. Text sits too far left.
Cool !!! but you need to do the video showing all the angles and dangles too !!!
I have to have some reason for people to come to the workshops
@@TexasToastGuitars there’s a huge difference in watching you do something compared to one of us muppets trying to duplicate it !!!
I bet that press is cheap enough to compete with the price of clamps alone, and then on top of that it's more convenient for many wood working projects.
We totally love it and it works really well for the stuff we do
why is it a top and a back, instead of a bottom?
That's a great question...
I honestly don't know why.
When you think about it the Les Paul had lots of crazy lingo. Like the switch positions of treble and rythem. This don't exactly go together either.
You have stumped me my friend
@@TexasToastGuitars true that, about rhythm/treble.
The "melody"position wouldn't really work.
kool
Burnisher
DO what now?
It’s called a brayer. I used to do wood block printing.
Wow, how thick is this Body? Must weight a lot!
Regular Les Paul thickness... & weight