If you would check the lash the first time and add that to the pushrod when checking it in the caliper, it would get you in the ballpark faster than to keep removing/reinstalling it.
Import turbo Honda guy here... This is interesting I wonder if measuring the gap to zero lash with a feeler gauge could increase speed. Looks like a modified valve adjust procedure to me 😂. V8 Dyno tech that works awesome.
I recommend that you add the Summit Racing video entitled, "How to Measure Pushrod Length Using Trick Flow Pushrod Length Checkers" to the Engine Building 101 playlist. It has a more detailed technical explanation of pushrod length checking using both old school gauge pushrods and the more modern non gauge pushrods, including measurement methods to compensate for gauge pushrods and adding pre-load to the final "overall length". This video is at th-cam.com/video/ddK0n2duAfg/w-d-xo.html
It does depend on the mating hardware. I added 0.050 to my measurement and it was not enough. After breaking in the engine I had to get longer pushrods, by another 0.050” to get the wear pattern in the center of the valve stem.
@@robertclymer6948 if you are only using it for an engine swap into a different car or you have a pre-2007 gm vehicle then you need a gen 3 engine. In my case I need the harder to find more expensive gen 4 for my 08.
Notice he is using checker valve springs!! Do not do this with dual springs installed youll risk collapsing the lifter and getting a inaccurate measurement
Sure, if you start with the adjustable rod being far too long. If you start short and creep up on the lash as Brian did in the video, then you should never be close to collapsing the lifter.
What do you mean by collapsing the lifter? I wonder if I did this because I notice that I can easily push the 2 lifters in cylinder #1 down a little by hand but I can’t on the cylinder next to it.
you use the term "it" much too often. Also, you completely left out the up or down position of the actual lifter. Add that to the fact that you haven't defined "solid or hydraulic " lifters. If they are hydraulic, are they filled, centered of collapsed? Then, the it, your reference to the rocker picot bolt I'm guessing, is it just lightly touching, or should it be torqued? You're talking about building an over 1000 hp engine... Please don't leave us guessing...
If you would check the lash the first time and add that to the pushrod when checking it in the caliper, it would get you in the ballpark faster than to keep removing/reinstalling it.
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!! THIS IS MY FAVORITE SERIES!!!! I ALWAYS LEARN SO MUCH!!!!!
Thank you for watching, John!
Thank you. Still learning this stuff... would like to see more of these videos.
Thank you for watching, Jason!
Thank you!
Would it make sense to measure lash and add that to push rod length to save time setting up zero lash?
Import turbo Honda guy here... This is interesting I wonder if measuring the gap to zero lash with a feeler gauge could increase speed.
Looks like a modified valve adjust procedure to me 😂. V8 Dyno tech that works awesome.
Please elaborate on rocker bolt rotation vs lifter plunger
I recommend that you add the Summit Racing video entitled, "How to Measure Pushrod Length Using Trick Flow Pushrod Length Checkers" to the Engine Building 101 playlist. It has a more detailed technical explanation of pushrod length checking using both old school gauge pushrods and the more modern non gauge pushrods, including measurement methods to compensate for gauge pushrods and adding pre-load to the final "overall length". This video is at th-cam.com/video/ddK0n2duAfg/w-d-xo.html
This is a great way to check pushrod length. I've always add .030" of preload length. Is .050"-.075" much better? Thanks for the video.
Depends on the lifters your using
It does depend on the mating hardware. I added 0.050 to my measurement and it was not enough. After breaking in the engine I had to get longer pushrods, by another 0.050” to get the wear pattern in the center of the valve stem.
Is this set up for hydraulic lifters? Thanks.
yep hydro. thats why hes creeping up on it. it would collapse the lifter if he went too far
DEAD NUTS he said!!!😂🤣
I should've thought about using a caliper gauge 🤦♂️
So I blew my first motor. Gen 4 5.3. Y’all got a short block?
Hi Joseph. Is the Gen 4 better then the Gen 3? Lots of gen 3's out there.
@@robertclymer6948 if you are only using it for an engine swap into a different car or you have a pre-2007 gm vehicle then you need a gen 3 engine. In my case I need the harder to find more expensive gen 4 for my 08.
Am looking to purchase KENTUCKY TOOL BOX
Notice he is using checker valve springs!! Do not do this with dual springs installed youll risk collapsing the lifter and getting a inaccurate measurement
Sure, if you start with the adjustable rod being far too long. If you start short and creep up on the lash as Brian did in the video, then you should never be close to collapsing the lifter.
What do you mean by collapsing the lifter? I wonder if I did this because I notice that I can easily push the 2 lifters in cylinder #1 down a little by hand but I can’t on the cylinder next to it.
Hahaha i thought only me and pops used the term dead nuts
Seven 420 LøL
you use the term "it" much too often. Also, you completely left out the up or down position of the actual lifter. Add that to the fact that you haven't defined "solid or hydraulic " lifters. If they are hydraulic, are they filled, centered of collapsed? Then, the it, your reference to the rocker picot bolt I'm guessing, is it just lightly touching, or should it be torqued? You're talking about building an over 1000 hp engine... Please don't leave us guessing...