If you're misfiring and don't have time do to it, a quick fix is to keep a spark plug socket in the car, cut a piece of sponge into a long strip, and then put something on it as a handle (I literally used 2 looped zipties), take plug out, put engine degreaser on the top of sponge, and just stick it in there, spin it around a bit (make sure it gets the bottom good) clean your plug a little, and reinstall plug. My car did this on cyl 1, and it misfired hard when it happened. Instantly fixed it for like 3 weeks each time. I just did my gaskets yesterday, but this method kept me good for like 8 weeks until I had time to do it
@DCAutoEnhancement bro I used your guide and it worked great. But uh... I used 1 of my old studs..not a good idea. It snapped the second I felt the flange hit. Im a machinist so i know a fault or crack when i see one but it looked perfect. Now I'm gonna try a lefty drill bit very carefully and slow with a magnet stick and pray I don't have to remove the whole cover. Also, do you know if Hondabond is that much different then hi temp black silicon? I ordered it anyway. I'm torqued to spec and did the stud pattern quarter turn at a time, and my closer right side stud is barely barely leaking. Not even drops. Just oily. I may use a little sealant Round them but was curious if there actually is a difference.
Going to do this on my 99 Civic when I do the valve adjustment. When installing the valve cover gasket did you have issues with the spark plug tube seals seating correctly when trying to reinstall the valve cover onto the head?
I remember the tube seals being a pain to remove. If you're have trouble with them, I would verify that they are in the correct way and seated completely. I hope that helps.
Hondabond was recommended everywhere I searched. I did see some people using gray rtv silicone. I wouldn't do the job without something in those corners, they are prone to leak there if nothing is used from what I read.
I took rubber insert out of my spark plug socket and super glued it in. They are SO annoying to get out if they get stuck. Ask me how I know😂😂😂 tbh the oil could create a layer of suction since it's thick liquid. I would just do as I suggested @robertfrye7746
@@kodylaclair961 we did it as suggested a year ago. Now he's got an issue with the trans. The motor still uses oil and runs like a sewing machine but the trans stopped working after the first 1/2 mile.
🤣I can't remember if this was the first Honda that I did these on or the second. I know the first one was ridiculously hard to get the old ones out. I think I just lined them up and used a socket to drive them in. It has been a while since I made this video.
I have a 2000 honda dx. Can you tell me if I need or have to use synthetic motor oil? Im not sure what to use. Thank you for your time. Or can you recommend what type/kind of motor oil to use?.
You can use 5w30 conventional oil it is also safe to switch to synthetic if you prefer. If it was my car with high miles, I would use synthetic and I do not have a brand preference so I can't tell you what brand I would use. Price usually dictates which one I buy. Hope this helps.
Yes, I believe that is the correct size. I usually recommend removing the ground first, it reduces the chances of arcing the ratchet from positive to any metal that the ratchet may contact.
@@DCAutoEnhancement thank you let me know about that and one more thing is after i done with the Valve Cover Gasket then i put the ground on ?the whole process is remove the ground and put it on?
Some people will say the best is OEM but the OEM price is usually much higher than aftermarket. I used fel pro. The links to the valve cover gasket and the Honda bond are in the description. I think I may have put a link to an off brand Honda bond there too.
I was helping my brother change his spark plugs this morning. One of the spark plugs was covered in oil. He's going to be doing this soon.
The spark plug seals in the valve cover can be difficult to remove but, they will come out
If you're misfiring and don't have time do to it, a quick fix is to keep a spark plug socket in the car, cut a piece of sponge into a long strip, and then put something on it as a handle (I literally used 2 looped zipties), take plug out, put engine degreaser on the top of sponge, and just stick it in there, spin it around a bit (make sure it gets the bottom good) clean your plug a little, and reinstall plug. My car did this on cyl 1, and it misfired hard when it happened. Instantly fixed it for like 3 weeks each time. I just did my gaskets yesterday, but this method kept me good for like 8 weeks until I had time to do it
@DCAutoEnhancement bro I used your guide and it worked great. But uh... I used 1 of my old studs..not a good idea. It snapped the second I felt the flange hit. Im a machinist so i know a fault or crack when i see one but it looked perfect. Now I'm gonna try a lefty drill bit very carefully and slow with a magnet stick and pray I don't have to remove the whole cover. Also, do you know if Hondabond is that much different then hi temp black silicon? I ordered it anyway. I'm torqued to spec and did the stud pattern quarter turn at a time, and my closer right side stud is barely barely leaking. Not even drops. Just oily. I may use a little sealant Round them but was curious if there actually is a difference.
Going to do this on my 99 Civic when I do the valve adjustment. When installing the valve cover gasket did you have issues with the spark plug tube seals seating correctly when trying to reinstall the valve cover onto the head?
I remember the tube seals being a pain to remove. If you're have trouble with them, I would verify that they are in the correct way and seated completely. I hope that helps.
Thank you for the important to clean up as you go.
I wish I could say I always do that!🤣 Thank you for watching!
Did you tighten the bolts first then torque it to a specific pound and if so how much torque did you do ?
I hand tighten, then torque to 7 ft/lbs
@@DCAutoEnhancement thank you
7.2 ft. lbs. in the correct torque sequence: bottom middle, top right, top left, bottom right, and bottom left assuming oil cap is at the top right.
👍
Why is the hondabond recommended when replacing the gasket? And can I get away without adding any?
Hondabond was recommended everywhere I searched. I did see some people using gray rtv silicone. I wouldn't do the job without something in those corners, they are prone to leak there if nothing is used from what I read.
@@DCAutoEnhancement thank you!
Did you use a dab of oil on each spark plug grommet prior to insertion?
I don't recall but that is a good idea
I took rubber insert out of my spark plug socket and super glued it in. They are SO annoying to get out if they get stuck. Ask me how I know😂😂😂 tbh the oil could create a layer of suction since it's thick liquid. I would just do as I suggested @robertfrye7746
@@kodylaclair961 we did it as suggested a year ago.
Now he's got an issue with the trans.
The motor still uses oil and runs like a sewing machine but the trans stopped working after the first 1/2 mile.
I worry about the hondabond squeezing out on the inside of the valve cover and getting mixed with the oil
@@opalar27 if I remember correctly it is an oil resistant silicone and it is recommended to be used for that application.
How did you get the spark plug tube seals in so easily?? Seriously lol.
🤣I can't remember if this was the first Honda that I did these on or the second. I know the first one was ridiculously hard to get the old ones out. I think I just lined them up and used a socket to drive them in. It has been a while since I made this video.
What gasket maker did you use
Most likely it was Hondabond or this Permatex alternative: amzn.to/3R8Eomf
I have a 2000 honda dx. Can you tell me if I need or have to use synthetic motor oil? Im not sure what to use. Thank you for your time. Or can you recommend what type/kind of motor oil to use?.
You can use 5w30 conventional oil it is also safe to switch to synthetic if you prefer. If it was my car with high miles, I would use synthetic and I do not have a brand preference so I can't tell you what brand I would use. Price usually dictates which one I buy. Hope this helps.
shoud i do Disconnect the battery by using the ratchet with a 10 mm socket.
Yes, I believe that is the correct size. I usually recommend removing the ground first, it reduces the chances of arcing the ratchet from positive to any metal that the ratchet may contact.
@@DCAutoEnhancement thank you let me know about that and one more thing is after i done with the Valve Cover Gasket then i put the ground on ?the whole process is remove the ground and put it on?
@@dexter7s847 yes, and that's really just so no one accidentally tries to start the car.
@@DCAutoEnhancement thank you i got it
One of my bolts on my valve cover is leaking what could that mean ?
Most likely your gasket has failed near that bolt.
@@DCAutoEnhancement the valve cover gasket?
@@mysmallfilm that would be my guess based on what you said. You can send a photo of you want to info@dcautoenhancement.com
How long was the labor for this job ?
I would show 45 min to an hour.
What is the torque specs on the valve cover gasket bolts
7 ft lbs
@@DCAutoEnhancement What happened to 7ft lbs. ?
@@akdelta38 I must have thinking about something else when I responded. Thanks for pointing that out.
Does it have to be OEM stuff or will regular parts store kits work? Also where to get the Honda bond, or if any other Linda what name/brand?
Some people will say the best is OEM but the OEM price is usually much higher than aftermarket. I used fel pro. The links to the valve cover gasket and the Honda bond are in the description. I think I may have put a link to an off brand Honda bond there too.