Oldsmobile V8 Oil Drain Back Issue
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ก.ย. 2024
- The Oldsmobile v8 is my absolute favorite engine in the world. However as everything in this world has its pros n cons, the olds engineers overlooked this one simple drainage issue. Btw, if you have a 307 with 7A heads don't worry because well... good luck getting those slugs over 4500 rpms anyway haha. this applys more less to 330s, 350s, 400s, 403s, 425s, & 455s....notice how I didn't include the 260... this is also why these motors leak oil from the valve covers.
This idiot must have just pulled this out his ass
Ahh I take it you saw the brown streaks on my hand in the video, you've got a good eye for detail my friend.
It's a known issue in jet boats if you insist on spinning the olds 455 too much. I've watched my op begin bouncing up around 5,000. I usually keep her under, like 4500 gets her going just fine. Want something to blow up, get a chevy.
@@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259 dont bother with this guy. He insists becuase he know some rando named dick miller that hes the all seeing one of knowledge. Literally talk to anybody that runs pro jet boats and they will tell you they are time bombs becuase they loose oil pressure over 5k.
Yeah, I've heard about that guy the dick.
All i had to do was look up dick millers website. And i found that he sells an OIL RESTRICTOR THAT RESTRICT OIL TO THE CAM AND TOP END.
I just wanted to say it’s really cool that you are working on the older American cars. You have a lot of knowledge and I appreciate you taking the time to pass on this information. Keep up the good work. These cars were made back when they still made something that would pretty much run forever if you maintained it. I have a 1966 Ford Galaxie, a 1966 Dodge Coronet, and a 1995 Cadillac Fleetwood. I’m 35 now and enjoy all of the American car makers and all their work before they started making throw away cars. It’s great that some of us in the the younger generation still enjoy them.
Ryan Hodges thank you I really appreciate it. I'm now 25 Lol. I'm glad some of us can relate to these older cars from another time. If your interested in keeping up to date with my channel, I just dropped the olds motor in this video in my wagon 2 days ago and as of today it's out on the streets ripping up the black top. Im going to be releasing a video on the swap here in a few days. Thanks for stopping by.
Useful Entertainment
I’ll definitely check that out.
My grandfather had a 1984 Oldsmobile Ninety-Eight and I learned how to drive in that car. They are great cars.
the oil drains are at an angle, because the oil is what cools the valve springs, they don't want it to just drain right down, but they wanted a certain level of oil in the valve covers, yes that's why you have 10 cover bolts.
I've run a coat hanger down those holes many times back in the day it would cause issues believe me when those holes are clogged ..
I had a 403 in a 79ta,do what I did, spend a little time with a grinder and smooth out and align those passages, helps out a bunch.
thanks for the info.
That’s what a lot of people did back then. It was a recommendation in a lot of the performance magazines that the engine builders used to do. I think I’ve got a Mondello performance engine build book around here somewhere that goes into detail about it.
You can chamfer the crank shaft oil holes to make them flow better and change to a higher volume pump. That helps. Olds Racer
I am in the process of resurrecting a '65 425 and yeah, same thing - tons of silvery thick paste sludge everywhere, jamming up all sorts of vital orifices - which partly explains the number 7 cylinder SNAFU that originally killed it. Since I have the block fully stripped and cleaned, apart from fixing up the cylinders and prepping it for new bearings, pistons and such, I'm also taking plenty of time to go over every bit of the thing, and the heads. That entire drainback pathway, even on a first year casting, is full of sharp edges, jagged inclusions, and the like. About 5 minutes with a 1/8" carbide on the dremel took care of those pretty well. Will do the same when I do the build of the heads. I also highly recommend taking a chainsaw file and breaking the edge on anything sharp, except for key areas (pretty much around the main cap/bearing interfaces be really careful).
Dude I love your videos lol. Good info as usual! I was distracted by that song in the background hahaha. I haven't heard it since I was a kid 😂
JoeyPete lol that was never say never by romio void hah I had a CD going. and thank you btw
Great video! Anyone who works on and runs these engines needs to know stuff like this. I myself have had problems with my 307. I have a 84 lesabre coupe.I've changed the stem seals in the heads 3 times in 10 years with very little results. Your video just showed me what I might have missed thanks!
Just discovered that my holes were clogged. Paint from rockers and sludge had it severely clogged. So I'm replacing the rockers, pushrods, and sea foaming it. Wish me luck
lolol nice man, good luck
Thanks bro...lol
I am glad that Marvel Mystery oil has been inside my Rocket 350 For The Last 40 years and it is a low Revving Automatic too !
I have raced Oldsmobile cars for 20 plus years. My first 350 olds drag car had a stock bottom end stock oil pump deisel pistons and rods number 5 heads ported performer rpm intake ultradyne cam comp roller tip rocker kit and a complete msd ignition. 1983 olds Cutlass ran 12.39 with that motor shifting at 6500 rpms and hitting 7200 in the water box from time to time. Never blew up never had any oiling issues nothing. Raced that motor for 8 years never any problems with oiling system none. Now I have a 660 hp 355 olds engine in it and it's built out of good stuff. It has no oil restricters in it and it runs about 70 pounds of oil pressure and I shift it at 7000 and still no problems like you say????
1970 olds442 thats pretty damn cool in general you race olds. They don't get oil pressure problems, they tend to suck the pans dry and the oil doesn't come back down fast enough. How many qts does your oil pan hold?
Useful Entertainment engine with Diesel pistons had a stock 455 pan on it. Oil pressure gauge never dropped have Auto Meter gauges
Useful Entertainment new engine holds 8
1970 olds442 there you go that solves the problem. I like my 5 qt pan, extra ground clearance.
@@UsefulEntertainment never sucked the pan dry with my old motor
Oil restrictive pushrods is a new alternative I never heard before. Do you have any make or part numbers on those pushrods?
William Hugelmeyer I do not. I need to investigate them more
This id never s problem with Uniflow 2 strokes
Mondello is where I would start. There ae others that made mods too. The SoCal Jet Boat forum could be useful.
I recently bought a 72 olds 98. It had sat for over 20 years. So i checked the oil and it looked good but the starter would'nt turn it, so i pulled the plugs and poured some atf in it for a week. I took a breaker bar to the crank bolt, and it broke loose almost immedetly, so i hooked up an iv with fresh gas. Before i tried to start it, i rolled it over for 2 min off and on, with no plugs. I put plugs in it and it fired up right away. What surprised me is it had NO lifter or rocker arm noise, and ran as smooth as silk. After watching your video, I guess when i rolled it over to get oil to the top end, it ended up getting lots to the lifters/rockers... Thanks for the info
72 98s are pretty cool cars man, Im glad you struck such good luck and worked out well.
Great video man! This is our first Oldsmobile motor well besides the 260 I blew up lol and I always get good information from your videos! Btw motor looks great
1978 Oldsmobile cutlass hey thanks for the compliment, I just hope I can get it in the car soon. Lol howd you blow a 260?
Useful Entertainment NP man and just ran the piss out of it haha I finally got mine all done I'll have a vid on here or my brothers channel soon
1978 Oldsmobile cutlass good deal, I'm subbed to him so I'll check it out when it gets released
@@UsefulEntertainment most likely there was sludge in the engine, probably a rod bearing gave out, not getting enough oil. If the oil is changed regularly, the 260 is unable to blow itself up. I know this first hand, I owned a 79 Cutlass with the 260 and put about 200,000 miles on it before I swapped the motor, it was still running fine. I changed the oil religiously. The 403 it was replaced with was an easy power boost, got it from a junkyard ta. Even with the s***** rear end gear, the 403 and a good amount of low end power. I wish I still had that car, would have changed the rear end and put the 200 r4 I planned on doing.
Romeo void playing in the background , awesome. Love oldsmobile what heads are those , wasn't G. , was it a 6? 79 trans am in the backgrond? I have a 78 400 trans am . Used to have a 71. And a 72. 442 . Both were 455 s. Use a coat hanger to clean out the head drain hole , better than a screwdriver , and its flexible .
yep, good ear, not many people would catch that. the heads are number 6, the motor is a 70 350 and the trans am is an 80 pace car, i love those 79-81s. if people would just keep the oil clean they wouldnt have an issue lol
My 76 Oldsmobile 350 has had 100k put on by me in the past 12 years (nothing but synthetic oil changed every 3-4k miles, spotless inside. I have the stock cam so 5000rpm is Max for it. No issues whatsoever. It had low oil pressure at idle 12 years ago and it's the exact same now.
what oil viscocity do you use in your specific engine?
@@knightridersofgreece 0w40 Mobil 1 last couple of years
I’m pretty sure that the wagons are based on the 88 and 98 body styles. His had the Olds 307 in it. They are indestructible like you said. He put around 250,000 miles on his before he sold it. I just subscribed by the way.
Ryan Hodges yup the wagon is just a typical GM b body like impala, caprice, Bonneville, 88, 98 or electra lesabre or park avenue. Mine had a 307 and yeah they are indestructible, but you gotta get rid of stock nylon coated timing chain and gears or they always jump timing and bend valves. Thanks for the sub btw.
I wonder if having low oil pressure helps. I have 10 psi oil pressure idling in gear and 40 while driving, since I put it in 100k miles ago. I hit 5000rpm whenever I'm beating on it but that is the shift point. Plus I make sure I'm never more than half a QT low on oil. When it's down 1/4 of a QT I top it up. It uses about a QT and a half between oil changes.
Mike Kennedy Oldsmobile engines don’t have this problem this guy is a idiot. I have been racing Olds cars for 30 years and if this was a problem Dick miller and BTR racing would talk about it but they don’t
As long as you don't hear bearing rattle (like at startup), you should be fine. My 455 oil pressure is considerably higher, like 30 @ idle hot with straight 30W but the oil pump might be high volume and it doesn't have anywhere near 100k miles on it since rebuilt using a core block. The reason for the rebuild was it had been run too long with a burned head gasket and torched a nice groove in the head and deck between two cylinders. Bottom end was still fine, as far as I could tell. Had the machine shop balance it while they were in there. Ah, nearly 30 years ago I guess.
My Buick idles hot with about 7psi oil pressure so I set the idle up a little higher than normal, it will rattle a tiny bit at startup but mechanical oil pressure gauge is rock steady, doesn't flutter like a spun bearing would. Probably a little lose down there but the buicks did idle with low pressure.
I was wondering why my 455 was leaking oil from the damn valve covers which I've never seen before. Thanks for the info
its not that big of a fix. I usually use a good amount of silicone sealer to keep them from leaking. heres a couple of videos for you th-cam.com/video/-HFlz6nR998/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/xGThxcCnuMg/w-d-xo.html
Dominic Daley thats not the problem this guy is a idiot
great video for anyone out there getting into oldsmobiles. wish i would had these videos last year when i started planning my olds build. i know the whole sludge build up way to good. we tore apart the top end of my buddies 72 cutlass olds 350 and it was so bad we couldnt even see the head bolts. absolute mess. i took about a year doing as much research on olds engines and just finished up my first olds build this spring. olds 350 started out as a stock #8 head smog engine. new rings and bearings, a built set of #6 heads, 9-1 compression, comp cams high energy 268H cam, rpm intake and headers and it just runs like a dream for a streetable hotrod engine. The restricted pushrods is a good idea much prefered over restricting oil to the cam which to me doesnt seem like a good idea but i went a different route that you also suggested and went with the 7 quart pan and high volume oil pump and while i was in the process of opening up the exhaust ports i also ported and reshaped all my oil returns holes and made sure everything was flowing down hill. i also set my rev limiter to 5200rpms seeing how all my cutlass is is a street hot rod and i have no reason what so ever to push it harder. 5 speed stick shift car with 3.55 rear end i just up shift and let the low and mid range torque do the work. well so far so good. 1000miles on the build, 60psi on start up 40psi at idle fully warmed up after a long road trip and never once have i seen the oil pressure drop off from normal and low leaky valve covers. only thing i would add to the leaky valve cover issue is i have seen to many guys pry them off with a flat head screw driver and bend the ridge. be certain the cover is flat to eliminate one more possible cause for the leak.
damn that's the ultimate set up, the 5 speed with 3.55s. I wanted ti do the performer rpm 7111 intake and headers and a holley street demon but it was out of my budget. im running the mondello 20 - 22 cam with is 496/512 lift and as im sure you know you cant go past .500 lift with out adjustable rockers. I have the rockers I just need to put them in along with the new valve springs. ive thought about porting and shaping the oil drain backs but I didn't bother. how did you set a rev limiter? that's not a bad idea. if your interested in where this engine is going, take a peek at the last few videos on my channel. I just got my tranny back from the shop and I just got the exhaust installed on the car today. now that I have a full exhaust, I can swap my 307 to the 350 and break the new cam in.
I have ran olds like a snowmobile motor.
, they hold up as the 455 does great @ 40:1 to solve oiling issues. I run Klotz R4 2 stroke oil
+Bruce Miller Ha-ha! You funny.
Klotz is fine but the techinplate R50 is to thick. Xd-100 or amsoill dominator is enough and that what im running in my truck. BTW what does and olds engine do that other engines dont.? A gm 454 or 502 is easier to get more power out of. How ever there is the olds alumimum billet block that makes for a nice porter 2 stroke conversion. Its much easier to cut ports into:www.chevelles.com/forums/11-bench-racing/528170-2-stroke-454-a.html. Like this guy did with a 454 tall deck block. It's propable running dry sump with oil injection in to the intake manifold. I am thinking of doing this. A hremi motor though can be looped charged through the valves for a poppet valved 2 stroke with having to bastardize the aluminum block with porting. A hemi head olds drce would be perfect for this.
i used to fill my 69 caddy 472 with pennzsoil synthetic TCW3 and never had a problem, i also premixed at around 60:1. Now all i use xd-100 in my truck. The tcw3 was a bit thick though but it worked.
It is possible to reverse the oil flow in an olds engine so the oil goes to the crank first. I remember a guy doing that with his off shore racing boats and won championships. I dont remember his name but I am an old Olds guy. I raced my 71 442 at Island Dragway in Great Meadows New Jersey back in the eighties.
They would come into my uncle's garage smoking like a train and the valve covers leaking like a bitch clean them returns out and she was good to go but I imagine the valve seals were pretty bad by then but most of the customers were like oh my I think my engine is bad .. My uncle would say we have one little trick to try before saying the engine is shot it wasn't making any noise he knew what it was but people were so grateful to get it fixed for an hour or so labor charge and new valve cover gaskets I loved the few oldsmobiles I had the first was a 67 cutlaas supreme w the 330 two speed I bought it in tenth grade for 200 bucka in 83
Camshaft only turns once and crankshaft turns four times oil restrictors work greater also bigger pan and pick up I have a 66 425 punched out 40 over and putting out 500H.P. and did all those tricked 30 years ago and never had a problem even painted inside head with epoxy for oil to flow down faster to the drain holes and if you change your oil you will never have a prob... And had mine screaming 7000 R.P.M. with 4000 stall converter manual reverse valve body with trans break and 4:56 gears...
The oil restrictors are for the camshaft and Mondelo sell them ...
If you were to run the oil restrictive push rods with the high pressure oil pump, would that be a waste of time and effort or could keep oil in both the valve train area and the bottom end?
That's a good question, i never thought about it. I dont know so i dont want to point you in the wrong direction.
77 and newer seem bad for valve cover gasket leaks. My 76 has had cheap Chinese chrome valve covers on it for 12 years 100k miles now and no leaks.
77 and newer only use six bolts instead of 10.
@@therealtech833 yes I meant to type that and obviously lost my train of thought as usual
Joe did the restrictions due to hi rpm use
So, as lose oil in the bottom end, you will lose oil pressure? If oil pressure drops, can I assume I need more drain back or larger pan? What is the normal oil pressure range?
Finally, someone who visually illustrates the problem while describing it, as opposed to just making verbal criticisms. This is probably a dumb question, but what are those metal 'bridges' that run across the top of, and connect each intake rocker to its corresponding exhaust rocker arm? Is that designed to increase rigidity or something? I've never seen that on stamped rocker arms.
Btw: One good thing that engine has going for it, is that you painted almost the entire engine very close to Ford blue. That alone should improve the engine's power, strength and reliability! Lol
The bridge is the only anchor point for the rockers they are non adjustable
@@UsefulEntertainment
Overall, if you had to compare the V-8's of the non-Chevy GM divisions, such as 350's made by Olds, Buick and Pontiac, as well as each division's 455 engines, which are toughest, best for high performance applications, and which is capable of building most reliable power, with lowest odds of failing?
joe mondello himself says the oil restrictors are the fix period. id believe his opinion over yours . no offence
Is that a factory engine color? Looks good…
nope, it was supposed to be gold, it looks good here but the paint discolored right away when it ran.
Can u post a link to these "restrictave pushrods"?
Definaty interest as my 455 is in a jet boat.
Sup? I have a 1983 Cutlass Supreme Brougham. It has the "Y" VIN 5.0L 307 in it. I'm thinking about building this engine up. I want to do something different, and try to keep the car original. It's a T-top car, so I won't be doing much drag racing in it. I can't find much info on the net. I want to get about 280-300hp to the wheels with the original 307. With the Olds V8 being your favorite engine, do you think that's feasible? If not, I'm definitely going Olds, not LS swapping this particular car, it's gonna be my cruiser. If 300hp isn't a prudent goal for the 307, which engine do you think would be the best cruiser/street rod engine? Of course, I want to keep decent to reasonable gas mileage. Now, I'm no dummy, I know V8s aren't gas savers, but you know what I mean!? I know the 350s were shit after they started painting them light blue, right? The dark blue 350s are supposed to be the good ones, of course the gold ones are the best. Just give me a brief rundown on Olds engines if you don't mind. Thanks!
hey whats up. to be honest i would get your self a good 350, they make more power out of the box and it would cost way more to build a 307 to compete with a 350 than to start with a good 350. im not sure when they started changing colors around but the 68-72s are the best starting point. starting in 71 they all came with dished pistons for low compression but the heads are all good from 68-72 how ever all 68-72 2 barrel engines have a large dish in the piston. they made the 350 from 68-1980 but all 77 and later engines have light weight castings with windowed maines so stay away from them. starting in 73 they began lowering compression through large combustion chambers instead of dishing the pistons so it would be rather easy to take a 73-76 350 and drop a good set of heads in it rather than put flat top pistons in a 71-72 or any of the 2 barrel engines. there is a decent aftermarket world for the small blocks these days. i would suggest staying away from mondello unless its something only they can get because they buy parts from a supplier, rebox the parts and make a huge markup. the other thing is the 350 and the 307 look almost identical to one another and everything bolts to in the same place so it makes for a very easy swap. Hell you could paint a 350 black and tell people its a 307 if you wanted to lol. hope that helps some.
Useful Entertainment Helps a lot. Thanks.
I've gotten 24mpg (29 imperial mpg) with my 350 with overdrive and 2.93 gears. I got up to the same with a 307 and 2.73 gears in two different cars but heavy wind or stop and go was worse on the 307 because the 350 doesn't work hard to get up to speed.
But yes my 76 350 was darker blue from the factory (rust when I got it) so I painted it gold to make it look like an early one. Now I'd rather paint it that metallic dark blue because I'm proud it's a 75-76 because they were probably one of the most indestructible because of the low compression and hp but still having solid mains.
I agree, if you want to get more horsepower, go with a different motor. 307 is reliable, but there's really no easy way to make it make good power without a lot of unnecessary work. As was said, get a 350 or 403 small block olds. It will bolt right in. If you can just get higher compression heads or notched Pistons instead of dish, an Olds motor with 9:1 compression or greater, will put out a considerable amount of power, especially low and mid-range torque.
Another joke Oldsmobile valve covers don't leak the older ones have 10 bolts in them. If they leak you killed the valve covers
Yes I'm aware the older ones have ten bolts. I added that because the 77 and newer motors don't and those are the ones that leak but guess what, under the valve cover is the same design cylinder head so it was a good example.
why biue its a 350 should be GOLD 455s are painted BLUE
Because i have a gold 350 in my cutlass and i liked the way the blue looked.
10 valve cover bolts it's a rocket engine
They are all Rocket engines no matter how many valve cover bolts or what color it is
All the old pre '71 motors had 10 blots rocker covers mid '70's they changed to 5. You could still swap them . .no problem but 10 bolts less chance of leaking just sand that gallus and chamber the drain passages put cam restrictions or when you put you cam bearings in drill a smaller hole to restrict the flow the cam only turns 1 time compared to the crankshaft 4 times I built many olds motor's and drag race them big block 525 h.p. and small block 400 h.p. and mostly factory parts....
What color engine paint is that
its actually not engine paint, i painted the motor high temp silver and sprayed metal cast blue over the silver blue
Had to stop watching after 4 minutes. The language, lack of editing and poor videography all take away from the topic being addressed and information being discussed. Sad
well im sorry you cave such an attention deficit...
@@UsefulEntertainment I don't cave anything. For example, I know the definition of rpm (revolutions per minute), therefore rpm's is redundant want wrong. If you wanted to provide "useful" information instead of "entertainment" discussing oil flow and oil restriction in a polite manor could improve your TH-cam metrics.
@@erikalarson6803 dont you love when someone without a single fucking video on their channel tries telling you about video metrics.
#6 heads? Looks like a small block , either a 350 or a 403, painted 455 blue!
DR OLDS yep it's a 70 350. The color is metalcast blue. It's an anodized color. I wanted to paint it the color of the car I put it in
Small block were numbered heads big block were lettered heads #6 be about mid '70's best ones was #4 from '67 330 c.i. high compression need to put valve rotators from the #6 heads in little machine work bit save the life for street use with pump gas...
Romeo Void...playing in the background....lol!!
Lyle Lillithwort hell yeah 😉
I did nothing but premix as I revved the hell out of these , I ran nothing but 2 stroke oil, old olds where like snowmobile motors, newer ones were junk. Some olds DRCE can be converted to 2 strokes with Klotz at 50 2 stroke oi with a vro
Now run dry sump with oil injection for total loss. I premixed at 40:1 and filled the motor with synthetic 2 stroke oil, just inject it and run it like he s rotax snowmobile motor
+Bruce Miller Dude, what the fuck are you talking about? Are you fuckin serious or just a fuckin lyer? You seem to be talking about another world of shit than these vintage Olds engines, you should probably stick to snowmobiles, cause none of that shit applies to 4-stroke automobile engines. I damn sure wouldn't recommend putting 2-stroke oil in your Olds engine. Better to stick to some 10-30 or 10-40 depending on temperature and clearances in the bottom end. Only similarities between a Rotax snowmobile engine and a Oldsmobile V8 is the fact they are both engines. That's where the similarities end.
This video of drain back problems is total bullshit. Oldsmobile engines don’t have this problem i have been running and racing Oldsmobile cars for 30 plus years and have never heard of anything so stupid
You set me straight, wanna get married, I need a big daddy to touch me at night
People run northstars and claim they never have head gasket problems.
Useful Entertainment you are one stupid idiot
The Life Of Riley why don’t you ask Dick miller racing or Rocket racing they laughed
Useful Entertainment i think you have drain back issues in your brain there dumbass idiot
What brand water pump is on your engine?
It's a duralast, I usually clear them so they won't rust but I painted this one with leftover silver high temp exhaust paint.
I think I have a 307 I found the 7A. Its out of a old rat rod how do I tell the year and what vehicle it came out of
Tyson Buras your never gonna know what car it came out of, also be careful because 1971 350s have their own version of 7a heads. It's you sure if it's a 307 or could it possibly be a 350
That's the thing I have no idea what motor it is. only what the original owner told me it was.
Tyson Buras th-cam.com/video/xGThxcCnuMg/w-d-xo.html let me know if this helps
why did u paint over the spark plugs?
They were garbage and I didn't want to paint the cylinder lol
@@UsefulEntertainment what would be the best way for me to unclog my 350 tbi heads their stock i havent inspected them but my truck has been burning oil after it warms up it only gets worse with the rpms i dont have a compression guage to check my cylinders and my oil pressure it good when it full of oil it shows its maxed out at 60 for my oil pressure i want to believe its my oil drain back holes.
@@midcraze3466 the heads only clog up on Pontiac/Buick/Oldsmobile motors
I change my oil every 1500 to 2000 miles. Oil is cheap engine or engine rebuild is not cheap.
If you rev your engine to say 6,000 rpm it's for a second or two then you shift to the next gear and that drops the Rpms. It shouldn't starve the bottom end of the engine.
What Olds motor is that??
70 350
You can fix the oiling issue with restrictors that go in thought main journal oil holes.
to bad you didnt know about it when crank was out but if you do another olds build give it a shot and then you can use the big oil pump (My 455 60+) these are the ones I have had used.( dont trust link lol) but search 4 mondello >> mondelloperformance.com/product-category/oiling-systems/oiling-accessories/
how's it running today
It ran beautify until i pulled it to drop in a 455. Its got 16k miles on it waiting to be dropped into another car.
@@UsefulEntertainment i got a 87 cuttlass ready for that engine
My 455 did this and spun my bearings bent the rod and I only ran it 2 or 3 times after brake in 🤢big money down the drain I had to rebuild it 💸💰
I think you turned to many rpms that's what killed your motor. The drain back he is talking about is not true
I run but nothing but tvw3 in it crankcase fed and oil injection., I i
rev the hell out of it
U. Must have been romping on it real frickin hard cuz I've run the dogpiss out of a few olds motors and as long as those holes weren't plugged never lost oil pressure cuz that's what would happen it would suck air lack of oil as he said it's not easy to do ..
Couldn’t you bore those oil back holes not wider but straighter. ?
to be honest I dont know, but it would make good help if you can
Is the 5.0 307 notorious for leaking oil?
tyler2610 only around the valve covers
I added the restrictors but I open the hole size to double.
Sounds like you just need to more oil like dragsters do.
I have the exact same engine.Can you give me the oil type and the info pertaining to these engines.Thanks
MechanicJake I usually use 5-30 or 10-40. I have a hard time finding low detergent oil in regular parts stores. The camshaft in these engine need a Zink additive (ZDDP) as well. What I do is get oil from summit racing because they sell exactly what you need and they ship fast.
I run a 455 bored .60 over in my Jet boat. I have a little bit of oil that seeps out of my valve cover breathers but it minimal. I had the oil drain holes in the GA heads opened up a little more and the oil restrictors on the cam bearings. As fas as oil i use Rotella 15-40w because its one of the few oils that still has zinc in it. I run my Olds pretty hard around 5400 rpm and its still a solid engine
Any good oil with zinc in it will do, 10-30/10-40 range depending on temperature.
Need to turn off that music so we can clearly hear what you are talking about effectively. 😮😮
Holy Hell, Bro: isnt it something: i was just putting the water and power steering pump on the old 70s 350! Hahahaha, Wow: that is a problem, and before i go farther: that olds just looks more BadAss with those valve covers! So at the high rpms the oil would get pushed up into behind the heads! Those holes are Miles Off, I just cant figure why it was set up that way. Yep, most likely a design flaw ( speaking on the behalf of The Olds Respectively because its such a badass ): what is the highest rpms it'll go? Im looking at the 1 head still on the 350 and i think i see a hole like that, im not sure if it is in the same spot ( top or bottom ) That was Great Advice you gave: ill know: i just might be in the market to get one of these and blow people away: "Where in the hell did you get a 350 with 10 bolt valve covers???" They won't know its an Olds at all, i think the other motors like these are more looked over for the Chevy blocks... Hahahaha, You've got the Coolest driving habits Brother! Oh and also: i remember you had gave me some advice once as to what heads to put on there. I was thinking if i went All original heads: id use my M/T valve covers. Remember them? They were in the trunk of the satellite on that Old video back in september last year. I was thinking of having a cool Old 70s chevy block, ( with the old way from back in the day ) Dual Snorkel, M/T valve covers, still got the way old 4 spoke fan etc. Hahaha, Thanks for teaching us this Bro, Yep: You're the master of the Olds manual!
71 Plymouth. what's up. honestly I don't know how many rpms they will take before they grenade. I don't like to take them past 5 even tho I have before. it's not that I found a 350 with ten holes it's that all old's engines came that way until 77, 77 is when they no longer offered the 455, they went to light weight shit block castings with those windowed mains and they with to 6 valve cover bolts. I remember the Mickey Thompson valve covers hah I'd ditch that 4 spoke conventional fan and get a nice clutch fan, not one of those shitty flex fans everybody uses ether.
Useful Entertainment Hahaha, Yep: 77 is when everything went wrong, hmm: i didn't know the 455 was ended then! Oh yep: you showed us that window shit: what a fucking fish flopper. Hahaha, Yep: you're talking about those plastic mesh type of fans Everyone uses? Youre Exactly Right there Bro, Dont they offer those with steel blades? Hahaha: I don't know: ill probably put those on the motor. But regardless ive got to get another head so ill be thinking of what ill do...
71 Plymouth. yup it's no surprise they dumped the 455 after 76 because it was down to 190 horse. yeah they make metal flex fans too haha that's actually what I was talking about.
Useful Entertainment Oh that is sad to hear Bro. It had one of *those* endings. That last days to a legendary motor, same happened to the 440. What a person could do with a 440: could be done with a 318 at the end... I heard the last 440 was released in a 78 79 dodge truck. Speaking of that: im still going to try and find out what motor was in that wagon for you Bro: i dont think it was a Chevy wagon so im sure he most likely said 455. It still sits there to this day and the guy has moved to his sisters place. Theres a monster just sitting there... ( when i do get my license etc. ill make a trip over there and shoot footage for you to see it )
71 Plymouth. yeah it was one of those endings. I think buick stoped making 455s that year and probably Pontiac at that point. I know the 440 got dragged to it's death too. I was talking to some guy (non car guy) and he was telling me how when he was a kid he had a 77 New Yorker with a 440 and he was telling me how powerful it was and all I could do was think to my self yeah right, what a piece of shit. ill bet the Riviera could out run that thing. I'll bet it had a lean burn too seeing how that was released in 77.
Its not a design flaw all motor are the same.hint just change ur oil
Good video, thanks for tracking all the numbers. Most helpful were CC sizes. I'm just a little curious that you hadn't mentioned stamped numbers/letters on pass side heads that provide additionally info (i.e. "V" on 66-67 442 heads) Also useful for determining Toro or "98" heads.
Get rid of that intake.
Why?
@@UsefulEntertainment get a nice Aluminum one.
So basically it is the reverse of Ford y blocks.
Brad Vaughn what do they have problems getting oil upstairs?
Is that not a Buick 455?
No it's an olds 350
buicks had a front mount distributer early rigs anyway
@@rmzjohnon yep. Buick also has fuel pump on drivers side like a Pontiac
Swearing
Turn that s**t music off -- otherwise good video