Fellow once wanted me to weld ( reweld ) , ( re - reweld ) a mount on the pivot for the dumper on his dump truck. I looked at it and saw out of about a 4" by 3" area of assorted welds put on over the years by looking at the clean metal at the break it had only about 1" by 1/4" of metal holding it. He wanted me to just put another weld on it. I told him, Dude, I'm gonna have to spend half hour with a grinder before I even start
Nothing like finding out that all last week you were driving down the road with load after load of asphalt and the truck dumper was held on with 1" of weld on one side.
A sidebar, for a moment. I just wanna say thank you. This back of the class Ne'er-do-well, landed an amazing shop job, because of your real shoptalk tutelage. Whether or not you came here to educate, waste time, or be jocular, You had an effect. From the bottom of my old grungy heart. Thank you.
At last! So many comments are serious and sensible design/manufacturing suggestions - what's happened to all the mental case commenters there used to be? I come to the Comments for supplementary chuckles and yours is the first I've had! Thankyou. 👍
Had a big splitter myself. Went through the same pains. Name of the game is slot and tang. You gotta cut a slot(s) in your pusher plate and have a tang on your splitter wedge that goes through the plate so that you can weld on both sides instead of just being welded on the face. Breaks every time or after a few times. Also, don't get fancy with the wedge. Just a good old "V" works best for all types of wood. The fancy ones work OK for soft wood that's cut to stove size, but not for mean or stringy hardwoods. Don't mind taking an extra split, that's why you got the cylinder is to swing the splitter for you!!
@@blueman5924 In this case they work ok, but eventually they break too or bend the plate out of shape and it won’t run. The other approach is to make the wedge out of big enough stock and machine a clevis mount on the back so you can bolt straight to the ram. I think that’s what we finally wound up doing with this splitter. Once you get it all braced and welded till Hell wouldn’t have it, the cylinder mount starts breaking!! That’s when the gussets come out!!
You have to angle the outside blades outward so that the wood doesn't have to squeeze between them and the center blade. It should never get narrower past the cutting edges, always wider. You put all the blades parallel to each other and the wood gets compressed between them and gets stuck.
Came to post this. Could do 4 blades, but inside 2 would need to br places with cutting edge angle to outside and outside two would need to be set at the same angle as the cutting edge.
If you want a multiple wedge, weld up a radial pattern like wheel spokes and make it adjust up and down to center on the log. That way the pieces don't jam bc they can spread apart.
hows it going to auto adjust? take a month of sundays to get a cord split if you have to loosen adjust and tighten the height of the wedge every stroke.. or start sorting the logs by girth
@@AndrewBrowner I'm imagining a way that you could use levers to have a plate riding on top of the wood and through an assembly that lifts the splitter half the height of the wood to center it, but then we run into a durability issue. How do you make something that moves and also can withstand these kinds of forces? There's a way for sure, but I'm not a mechanical engineer
If I recall ones I've seen in the past. Any multi split cutters will try to do the centre split first followed by the sides. In the case of a box splitter it cleaves off the bottom and then splits it into pieces. It also helps if you're not splitting tree stumps ;)
Single bevel spliters leave room for the kerf. Line it up from the center point of the retracted shaft and fan out. You want the wood to split apart not be play doh extruded.
When you spilt the wood it is being compressed as it passes through the opening. Also the tension in the wood is released as it splits, think about how hard it is to hand split an oak log... That first split takes a lot of force, then the next ones get easier... It has to do with the tension held. So, as it is passing through the splitting plates there is no room for it to expand. You need to angle the plates so it gets wider as it passes through. That will reduce the friction and keep it from bustificating you whohaw waddamacallit. Had a similar problem with fixing a log splitter that I bought broken. More room to expand as it splits.
Yeap. Absolutely critical to set your splitting wedge array such that there's more room as it goes. I have the professional version of what Uncle Bumblefuck is building, a Woodmizer FS500. The wedge units look like this: res.cloudinary.com/dqwkulupg/image/upload/f_auto/w_400/v1522850080/LogSplitters/Wood-Mizer/Options/Wedges.png A reverse funnel shape, sort of.
The reverse funnel is a better explanation than mine was, but it's exactly what I was trying to say.. The confined space after each split needs to be bigger than the gap between splitting teeth to avoid the extruded playdoh effect
Start with a simple x splitter. The issue is dead tree carcass binding. In order to pass through multiple blades you have to angle blades to allow expansion. Take an 8x8 square stock. 3 (0.5) inch verticle blades vertically. If left straight the wood would have to have 1.5 inches compression. Wood has great compression strength. If you angle and stagger blades then you mitigate the compression issue
When I watched the last log splitter vijeo, the first thing that came to mind was: the log is being split, thus making it expand, but the splitting part was forcing it into a chute, kind of like a combination split/extrude. When the wood is split it needs room to separate. The first thing that popped into my head was a cross-shaped base like a giant Phillips head screwdriver. If you know "roughly" the diameter of the wood you normally split, you could also add on a perimeter sleeve to make sure the wood splits down the head and doesn't flay out like a banana peel.
As my dad would've told me in a situation like this: In the amount of time you've spent fiddling-fukin around here, trying to reinvent the wheel...You coulda had 5 cords cut, split and stacked already.
You've been going about this all wrong. You need to put a few envelopes sideways in the track. If they can take a chunk out of your flesh, they can snap a log right in two!
I just bought 2 sets of decals at your shop. Looking forward to sharing them with my Father in-law. I will be placing them throughout his shop with out his knowledge this summer when we go visit and then just wait. Someone is proud of those decals over 38 bucks for 2 sets delivered from Northern Canukistan to Arizona, the exchange rate for dollhairs to Canadian Pesos will get you every time.
The one my old man built just used a braced vertical and a slip-over horizontal. Split most of what he threw at it into quarters. Maybe you're just trying too hard to make little bits out of big ones in one go. That's the fun of it I assume. The slip-over was a V shape leading edge so it didn't hit the whole width at once.
The logs are being used as a wedge to force splitting wedges apart. They need somewhere to expand in to, a simple single cutter is the best way to go or at most a cross.
My old quarry boss was a bit of a madlad he had the hydraulic ram, for the blade off of one of his d9 bulldozers mated to a big cam Cummins 400 motor, as his log splitter set up! It was loud, smokey, super impressive. But I was scared as hell of that thing. I only used it when I had to. In the off season. Cos he let us cut all our firewood if nothing was going on at work. And he paid us for it. And he let me drive the 38ton loader home down a narrow rural road, with a bucket full of split wood to my house. Was a 47 km trip. He was the best boss ever!
Stagger the blades so the wood splits in stages. the first wedge splits, then the second and third wedges catch it after. Will give the splitting wood somewhere to go as it expands. Your horizontal wedge should be angled too so you aren’t stuffing a cork into a hole
I'm not good at writing in funny ways but if you are putting whole rounds into it a X or Double X pattern to make triangles would work better. With the Crossing point in the middle it would give room for the wood to go as it's being split instead of being jammed in between two plates as they pass through the wood. If you are doing half rounds then a V patten would be best. The problem with parallel splitting plates is the plate takes up volume and if there is a plate on either side of the wood you are having to compress the wood to go between the plates and really wedging it in there until the full power of the ram is being applied to the plates and the welds.
In my time as a designer my first mentors best advice was "don't reinvent the wheel if you don't have to" What I have seen in commercially made log splitters is either a single blade where the wood can f'off to either side or a Hexagonal cutting head where the timber has somewhere to go after being split. It's going to be a bit of work but a cutter that has the central hexagonal blades with a couple of degrees of taper from front to back and blades that extend from the centre out to a hexagonal frame means that the timber is only touching the blade under pressure. Why hexagonal? Its the closest approximation to the round timber you are going to be feeding it.
The biggest bit of advice I can think of for the log splitter is to remember it's made to split, not cut. If you're cutting, the blade's either too sharp or too thin. If it's too dull, you're pushing against a wall. You want the split to propagate out in-front of the blade after the initial split is made, wedging it apart, and for the chunks to fall out the back. The already cut chunks have to be loose in the cutter to fall out the back, which means you want the blade arrangement to look oversized for what you think you need for a given log so there's room for the chunks to be loose, and for there to not be anywhere that necks down and compresses them.
Set your current deck to a 45 degree angle, lifting the former cutting end above the implementer of destruction. Use this now formed ramp to rapidly increase the altitude of the lumber toward a stationary and well mounted running chainsaw.
Better yet, beings he's one of those lubricant magicians (I dunno what we call hydraulic workers... lol), swap out the gas motAr for a fast-choochin' hydraulic spinamathing! Unless this isn't powered by that portable hydraulic pump... In which case, an angry-pixies motor! 😁
With great stupidity comes very little responsibility. And its correlary: If a job is worth doing, its worth doing well; similarly: if a job is *NOT* worth doing, it is *NOT* worth doing well.
Hi. Can you imagine that I have used log splitter and Chinese clever people put wrong rotation sticker on the electric motor cover. My friend solved this today evening. Regards from Poland 🇵🇱 ❤️🇺🇦
The secondary cuts need to happen after the primary splits. So put the blades behind the first ones and it will relieve into the space made during the primary splits.
Many a day has gone by ive debated grabbing an old RV jack system and flabigrating one of these up. Im sure itll split the shitty cottonwood around here, but god help that cheapo piston if it gets forced to chew on anything with resilience.
Have you thought about going the other way. have the dingus bit on the stickey outy thingamadoodle and the backstop just be on the frame? or in other words place the hammer on the piston and the anvil on the frame ?
Angle the cutting blades back so they lean away from the wood... i.e. start the splitting from the bottom and have the tips about 1/2 inch back. That way the blades won't take the full impact on their whole length. It may also help to stagger the blades from left to right (or t'other way} 1 to 2 inches so the split wood doesn't get forced to the middle and put extra stress on the center blade.
Thought about putting the splitting wedges on the piston end? Need to angle out nice and wide to clear the worky bits. Then have to metal glue something meaty as a stop where the splitters are now.
Where I come from: entire log into rotary hammer (also known as a HOG). Chip flies out from the other end. Chip feed into burner. Fire is fully automatic.
Your problem is the blades are fixed and the width of the blades causes the wood to be compressed. If you made the outer blades spring loaded so they can move outward as the wood pushes through, then this would fix the problem.
As a train man myself, my solution is always “the weld ain’t thick enough or the metal ain’t supported enough! Double it!” But the engineering dropout in me says there’s too much hangle on the middle dangle, if you put it at an ANGLE, it might be able to handle the excess torque. I’d use a piece of triangle shaped steel hypotenuse towards the crush-y bits and leave plenty of room for the log to expand as it splits. Even for hard stuff you shouldn’t be splitting 1” plate steel I should think :)
hi AvE i am a pihlopsohy student from australia i do not have any legal tender to give and never will because my local philosohpy factory is closing down but i love your stickers and i love your channel, wisest man i have every heard, fair dinkum
Okay, I may have been sampling the Elechicken's lettuce but I think what that splitter needs is the inverted prow of a ship. Specifically an upside down Des Moines-class cruiser prow made out of a plate steel wedge and central "spine" to give it lots of weld surface area and support.
Ever since I saw your videos about vfds I have been working on a similar wood splitter as this one. But with electric motor and vfd, PLC to control it, end switches. It's currently on the healing bench but it will be built.. So, my only recommendation is that you look into that as well, more computers!
Sticker is perfect IMO... right on. And I lived in Minneapolis for several years... gay guy who lived upstairs once told me "If at first I don't succeed, I just keep on suckin'. Cheers as always.
I visualized you in the sequel to A Christmas Story, where you are Triple Dog Dared to stick your tongue to a frozen flag pole .... that is electrified! Shocking!
About to marry the better 3/4 on friday. Love your shit man, been here for years, keep it up! Bought stickers in the past will be buying more when I can
As Jerk Of All Trades points out, you need expansion space; the splitter blades are effectively compressing the wood as they split it when you have parallel geometry like that
Great vid as always. AvE . Love the stickers. I aint got any scratch right now. But hopefully these stickers will be in stock when i have some. Your vids always give me a laugh. Have a great one!
Recommendation: stagger the splitting blades, have one in the center a bit forward of a pair on the sides. This allows the log to split into 2 and then when it's split into 4 the middle 2 pieces can come back together in the space behind the middle center blade. The problem you seem to be running into with the other designs is a lack of places for the dead tree carcass to physically go. Something about trying to take up the same space as the blades themselves + hydraulics = an interesting jigsaw puzzle for the first responders.
In addition to that, a follower of some kind, whether built into the pusher plate or just a big block you can set into the splitting area, that will push the recently seperated bits of elf craft material out of the blade area will help quite a bit.
Brother, Your Senseless Humor always gets me to put my pearly whites on display ~ & this clip is 1 of Your best... I was LOL'ing so loud my neighbors shouted at me to Shut The Fuck Up!! * the First Responders bit nearly made me lose my shit!! 😂
Tried fancying up the wedge on my splitter too. Same problem everything broke off or bent to hell no matter how thick. Go huge or grab the maul and sledge. Frustrated at the inability to modify one part of the splitter I added a crane to pick up the logs and giant half pieces of logs after they fall on my toes. 5 pounds of 7018 a couple new hoses and a 4 way lever and I got up, down, extend and retract. Saves the spine pretty good.
I worked a couple months at a small commercial log splitting place. From what I recall the setup was like this: • The pusher piston was the splitter and was a big beefy X shape. • The piston was vertical and came down from above the log. • There was a number of solid metal rollers on the unsplit side so you could pre load a bunch of logs, or have a second person continuously load. • To operate the piston there was a big beefy foot lever you stood on. When not pressed the splitter would return to the retracted position. Hope this gives you some ideas. I think by moving the splitter to the shaft and making it an X you can get some pretty good strength, but not sure how well that will work horizontally?
I've had a tought on making a log splitter and it goes as follows: No need to weld the splitting wedge, it's hardened steel so it won't stick anyways. Instead weld a slot from a couple of plates for the blade to sit in. If in need of a more support, bolt a brace at the top of the blade, extending to front or back. If one is to use a four- or a six-way blade, this slot system with a spring and a foot operated cam allows for some adjustment of the horisontal splitting height. The wood chute needs to open up right after the split, both horisontally and vertically. And the reason not making this splitter yet: my old man does the splitting. He uses a cylinder with a pusher and a one way blade. Behind the blade and at the side of the pusher he has kind of a log table so splitting multiple times is not such a chore as he doesn't need to pick the logs from ground. Speaking of this (homemade) old splitter: some stickers could do.
During my younger days as an inexperienced press operator I loaded up a scrap chute with slugs to the tune of 800 tons for the better part of a 2 hour run. Tonnage monitor saved the press but not before it bent the 2 inch parallels under the die at least a pack of cigarettes width. A fist sized divot in the bolster plate remains til this very day. Die was sent to the scrap pile. 9800 lbs of scrap so not a total loss 😂
The good news is that the only thing worse than those welds is the welds on top of them.
Fellow once wanted me to weld ( reweld ) , ( re - reweld )
a mount on the pivot for the dumper on his dump truck. I looked at it and saw out of about a 4" by 3" area of assorted welds put on over the years by looking at the clean metal at the break it had only about 1" by 1/4" of metal holding it.
He wanted me to just put another weld on it. I told him, Dude, I'm gonna have to spend half hour with a grinder before I even start
@@michaelszczys8316 And it always starts the same way "it just needs a tack weld"......three dozen grinding wheels and a 50lb box of rods later....
this would also make a great sticker
I don't know if I agree with that. Mais c'est pas tout à fait con. Je vais y penser pendant que mes yeux fixe the shini blue light.
Nothing like finding out that all last week you were driving down the road with load after load of asphalt and the truck dumper was held on with 1" of weld on one side.
A sidebar, for a moment. I just wanna say thank you. This back of the class Ne'er-do-well, landed an amazing shop job, because of your real shoptalk tutelage. Whether or not you came here to educate, waste time, or be jocular, You had an effect. From the bottom of my old grungy heart. Thank you.
Hey congrats man! That's awesome
Screw the splitter and just weld up a bigger wood stove. Fire like a nuclear reactor would handle whole logs. Use the piston to load it.
At last! So many comments are serious and sensible design/manufacturing suggestions - what's happened to all the mental case commenters there used to be? I come to the Comments for supplementary chuckles and yours is the first I've had! Thankyou. 👍
Exactly!
Had a big splitter myself. Went through the same pains. Name of the game is slot and tang. You gotta cut a slot(s) in your pusher plate and have a tang on your splitter wedge that goes through the plate so that you can weld on both sides instead of just being welded on the face. Breaks every time or after a few times. Also, don't get fancy with the wedge. Just a good old "V" works best for all types of wood. The fancy ones work OK for soft wood that's cut to stove size, but not for mean or stringy hardwoods. Don't mind taking an extra split, that's why you got the cylinder is to swing the splitter for you!!
@@jlkinsel Probably worked well in that application also, I bet. It’s the same thing…….but different.
I thought triangles are a fabricader’s best friend ? 📐 self bracing….
i concur with the tong ang grove approach :)
@@blueman5924 In this case they work ok, but eventually they break too or bend the plate out of shape and it won’t run. The other approach is to make the wedge out of big enough stock and machine a clevis mount on the back so you can bolt straight to the ram. I think that’s what we finally wound up doing with this splitter. Once you get it all braced and welded till Hell wouldn’t have it, the cylinder mount starts breaking!! That’s when the gussets come out!!
Ask any lesbian you know: Tongue and grove is *ABSOLUTELY* the best!
The fact that you misspelled "responsibility" only makes the stickers that much funnier. Fun fact: I've seen 'em all the way out here in the Midwest!
There’s no “A” in responsibility.
Well F for effort makes all the wrongs right, right?
Like many things in life, sometimes you gotta put one where you shouldn't 🤔😅
@@ollieb9875 except your dingus, keep it in a vice fogadssake
You have to angle the outside blades outward so that the wood doesn't have to squeeze between them and the center blade. It should never get narrower past the cutting edges, always wider. You put all the blades parallel to each other and the wood gets compressed between them and gets stuck.
Couldn't have said it better myself, and I tried before I read this comment.
Very well said..
Came to post this. Could do 4 blades, but inside 2 would need to br places with cutting edge angle to outside and outside two would need to be set at the same angle as the cutting edge.
This was said on his original video lol
If you want a multiple wedge, weld up a radial pattern like wheel spokes and make it adjust up and down to center on the log. That way the pieces don't jam bc they can spread apart.
hows it going to auto adjust? take a month of sundays to get a cord split if you have to loosen adjust and tighten the height of the wedge every stroke.. or start sorting the logs by girth
@@AndrewBrowner the ones I've seen used a ram to slide it up and down
@@AndrewBrowner th-cam.com/video/Y78IBn-Jq8A/w-d-xo.html
@@jerkofalltrades5430 I'll slide a ram up and down. Not very far, but it'll slide.
@@AndrewBrowner I'm imagining a way that you could use levers to have a plate riding on top of the wood and through an assembly that lifts the splitter half the height of the wood to center it, but then we run into a durability issue. How do you make something that moves and also can withstand these kinds of forces? There's a way for sure, but I'm not a mechanical engineer
If I recall ones I've seen in the past. Any multi split cutters will try to do the centre split first followed by the sides. In the case of a box splitter it cleaves off the bottom and then splits it into pieces.
It also helps if you're not splitting tree stumps ;)
Single bevel spliters leave room for the kerf. Line it up from the center point of the retracted shaft and fan out. You want the wood to split apart not be play doh extruded.
When you spilt the wood it is being compressed as it passes through the opening. Also the tension in the wood is released as it splits, think about how hard it is to hand split an oak log... That first split takes a lot of force, then the next ones get easier... It has to do with the tension held. So, as it is passing through the splitting plates there is no room for it to expand. You need to angle the plates so it gets wider as it passes through. That will reduce the friction and keep it from bustificating you whohaw waddamacallit.
Had a similar problem with fixing a log splitter that I bought broken. More room to expand as it splits.
Yeap. Absolutely critical to set your splitting wedge array such that there's more room as it goes. I have the professional version of what Uncle Bumblefuck is building, a Woodmizer FS500. The wedge units look like this: res.cloudinary.com/dqwkulupg/image/upload/f_auto/w_400/v1522850080/LogSplitters/Wood-Mizer/Options/Wedges.png
A reverse funnel shape, sort of.
The reverse funnel is a better explanation than mine was, but it's exactly what I was trying to say.. The confined space after each split needs to be bigger than the gap between splitting teeth to avoid the extruded playdoh effect
Start with a simple x splitter. The issue is dead tree carcass binding. In order to pass through multiple blades you have to angle blades to allow expansion. Take an 8x8 square stock. 3 (0.5) inch verticle blades vertically. If left straight the wood would have to have 1.5 inches compression. Wood has great compression strength. If you angle and stagger blades then you mitigate the compression issue
This 100%
That sounds like engineering... we don't do that here. Joking, I'm an engineer and that's a good idea.
When I watched the last log splitter vijeo, the first thing that came to mind was: the log is being split, thus making it expand, but the splitting part was forcing it into a chute, kind of like a combination split/extrude.
When the wood is split it needs room to separate. The first thing that popped into my head was a cross-shaped base like a giant Phillips head screwdriver. If you know "roughly" the diameter of the wood you normally split, you could also add on a perimeter sleeve to make sure the wood splits down the head and doesn't flay out like a banana peel.
My boss made me take down my Jesus loves you sticker
some people are just born atheists.
@@arduinoversusevil2025 amen to that.
Time for a new job...
@@philpage9942 In a church.
Does this Jesus guy have any sisters?
An axe is a dangerous log splitter, especially in the hands of a dew claw who’s finally had enough.
As my dad would've told me in a situation like this: In the amount of time you've spent fiddling-fukin around here, trying to reinvent the wheel...You coulda had 5 cords cut, split and stacked already.
You've been going about this all wrong. You need to put a few envelopes sideways in the track. If they can take a chunk out of your flesh, they can snap a log right in two!
Fight dead tree carcass with dead tree carcass
@@wearsjorge55 Do we need a blade of super compressed wood to be made, so we can cut wood with it?
Schtickers should be a more appropriate description for these works of art.
Love the new stickers. Especially ‘Don’t stare in to the pretty blue light’
I just bought 2 sets of decals at your shop. Looking forward to sharing them with my Father in-law. I will be placing them throughout his shop with out his knowledge this summer when we go visit and then just wait. Someone is proud of those decals over 38 bucks for 2 sets delivered from Northern Canukistan to Arizona, the exchange rate for dollhairs to Canadian Pesos will get you every time.
Love your content. Keep the dewclaw in sight at all times.
Definitely don't let him get around behind. You'll have the fight of your life on your hands.
The one my old man built just used a braced vertical and a slip-over horizontal. Split most of what he threw at it into quarters. Maybe you're just trying too hard to make little bits out of big ones in one go. That's the fun of it I assume.
The slip-over was a V shape leading edge so it didn't hit the whole width at once.
The logs are being used as a wedge to force splitting wedges apart. They need somewhere to expand in to, a simple single cutter is the best way to go or at most a cross.
My old quarry boss was a bit of a madlad he had the hydraulic ram, for the blade off of one of his d9 bulldozers mated to a big cam Cummins 400 motor, as his log splitter set up! It was loud, smokey, super impressive. But I was scared as hell of that thing. I only used it when I had to. In the off season. Cos he let us cut all our firewood if nothing was going on at work. And he paid us for it. And he let me drive the 38ton loader home down a narrow rural road, with a bucket full of split wood to my house. Was a 47 km trip. He was the best boss ever!
The misspelling on that little "stupidity" sticker opening was a nice touch.
Stagger the blades so the wood splits in stages. the first wedge splits, then the second and third wedges catch it after. Will give the splitting wood somewhere to go as it expands.
Your horizontal wedge should be angled too so you aren’t stuffing a cork into a hole
Shake hands with danger, the first best safety song and second best safety video behind Klaus forklift training.
It's 2022. Splitting your wood is the new cool thing. Nice work staying with the trends.
I'm not good at writing in funny ways but if you are putting whole rounds into it a X or Double X pattern to make triangles would work better. With the Crossing point in the middle it would give room for the wood to go as it's being split instead of being jammed in between two plates as they pass through the wood. If you are doing half rounds then a V patten would be best.
The problem with parallel splitting plates is the plate takes up volume and if there is a plate on either side of the wood you are having to compress the wood to go between the plates and really wedging it in there until the full power of the ram is being applied to the plates and the welds.
In my time as a designer my first mentors best advice was "don't reinvent the wheel if you don't have to" What I have seen in commercially made log splitters is either a single blade where the wood can f'off to either side or a Hexagonal cutting head where the timber has somewhere to go after being split. It's going to be a bit of work but a cutter that has the central hexagonal blades with a couple of degrees of taper from front to back and blades that extend from the centre out to a hexagonal frame means that the timber is only touching the blade under pressure. Why hexagonal? Its the closest approximation to the round timber you are going to be feeding it.
These are great! We also need some more Cockford-Ollie stickers. The management needs reminding of what to order.
The biggest bit of advice I can think of for the log splitter is to remember it's made to split, not cut. If you're cutting, the blade's either too sharp or too thin. If it's too dull, you're pushing against a wall. You want the split to propagate out in-front of the blade after the initial split is made, wedging it apart, and for the chunks to fall out the back. The already cut chunks have to be loose in the cutter to fall out the back, which means you want the blade arrangement to look oversized for what you think you need for a given log so there's room for the chunks to be loose, and for there to not be anywhere that necks down and compresses them.
One single wedge works the best in my opinion. Also I like the splitter to ram towards the ground so as I can just roll the logs under it.
Set your current deck to a 45 degree angle, lifting the former cutting end above the implementer of destruction. Use this now formed ramp to rapidly increase the altitude of the lumber toward a stationary and well mounted running chainsaw.
Better yet, beings he's one of those lubricant magicians (I dunno what we call hydraulic workers... lol), swap out the gas motAr for a fast-choochin' hydraulic spinamathing!
Unless this isn't powered by that portable hydraulic pump...
In which case, an angry-pixies motor! 😁
Wood mate, wood.
Australia!
(...it's a more useful word ;)
Love the wheels on your 1974 Sears Catalogue chair.
With great stupidity comes very little responsibility.
And its correlary:
If a job is worth doing, its worth doing well; similarly: if a job is *NOT* worth doing, it is *NOT* worth doing well.
Nothing like an AvE vijeo in the afternoon.
Except an Ave video at 0545 in the future!
Hi. Can you imagine that I have used log splitter and Chinese clever people put wrong rotation sticker on the electric motor cover. My friend solved this today evening. Regards from Poland 🇵🇱 ❤️🇺🇦
Usually I skip the merch advertising part of youtubers video, but this whole video is basically merch advertising and somehow I watched it twice
The secondary cuts need to happen after the primary splits. So put the blades behind the first ones and it will relieve into the space made during the primary splits.
Many a day has gone by ive debated grabbing an old RV jack system and flabigrating one of these up. Im sure itll split the shitty cottonwood around here, but god help that cheapo piston if it gets forced to chew on anything with resilience.
Have you thought about going the other way. have the dingus bit on the stickey outy thingamadoodle and the backstop just be on the frame?
or in other words place the hammer on the piston and the anvil on the frame ?
that nullifies the automated outfeed portion
Absolutely love these. Gonna have to get some.
"My budget troll, she has a bit of a mean streak" LOL! I have one of those too!
Angle the cutting blades back so they lean away from the wood... i.e. start the splitting from the bottom and have the tips about 1/2 inch back.
That way the blades won't take the full impact on their whole length.
It may also help to stagger the blades from left to right (or t'other way} 1 to 2 inches so the split wood doesn't get forced to the middle and put extra stress on the center blade.
Thought about putting the splitting wedges on the piston end? Need to angle out nice and wide to clear the worky bits. Then have to metal glue something meaty as a stop where the splitters are now.
This is the way
Gah, now the shake hands with danger song will be stuck in my head for hours!
Where I come from:
entire log into rotary hammer (also known as a HOG). Chip flies out from the other end. Chip feed into burner.
Fire is fully automatic.
Your problem is the blades are fixed and the width of the blades causes the wood to be compressed. If you made the outer blades spring loaded so they can move outward as the wood pushes through, then this would fix the problem.
Came looking to see if someone suggested this. I'm not sure how to build it, but I think this is the ticket!
ADDING SPRINGS TO THIS, AN HERO!
without springs.
side blades staggered forwards with a slight angle out, middle blade behind them by a couple inches.
Like I told my helper once, those welds not only won't pass inspection, they won't even pass current.
Ordered some of these stickers a couple of days ago, already have some of your others adorning my toys. Keep up the good work!
I can't believe I got conned into watching a 3 minute safety sticker ad
Gave me a good chuckle, after a bad day. Thanks you.
That sticker made me laugh.
That shake hands with danger was made for the fabrication shop I work at.
Shameless product adverts here. Shameless. Absolutely friggin' shameless.
Perfection at it's finest!
Hope postage to Aussieland is fine mate.
Glenn
grader blades work really well actually, seen several made with 2 pieces flipped to make a wedge
Blinded by the blue light, but momma that's where the fun is!!
As a train man myself, my solution is always “the weld ain’t thick enough or the metal ain’t supported enough! Double it!” But the engineering dropout in me says there’s too much hangle on the middle dangle, if you put it at an ANGLE, it might be able to handle the excess torque. I’d use a piece of triangle shaped steel hypotenuse towards the crush-y bits and leave plenty of room for the log to expand as it splits. Even for hard stuff you shouldn’t be splitting 1” plate steel I should think :)
The Vulva toolbox earned the chuckle
The King of Swamp Castle had to rebuild several times until,finally,the castle Stood Up!
Thank you for making sure your friends are looked after
Love the location tag! Keep up your healthy respect for Line of Fire!
I feel like responsibility with an "A" makes it even more appropriate
Response Ability is how I always thought of it.
Bought a crapload of stickers… it’s the least I could do! And that’s my goal, do the least I can daily.
Listen to those top three fellers they know what they’re talking about
hi AvE i am a pihlopsohy student from australia i do not have any legal tender to give and never will because my local philosohpy factory is closing down but i love your stickers and i love your channel, wisest man i have every heard, fair dinkum
Well the stickers sold out. Love the channel mate. Great content.
I love that red Dr Who t-shirt you've got.
Best channel ALIVE!!!!!
Okay, I may have been sampling the Elechicken's lettuce but I think what that splitter needs is the inverted prow of a ship. Specifically an upside down Des Moines-class cruiser prow made out of a plate steel wedge and central "spine" to give it lots of weld surface area and support.
Bought mine a couple days ago. Best stickers ever!
You and Dewclaw, the worlds in trouble!!
Ever since I saw your videos about vfds I have been working on a similar wood splitter as this one. But with electric motor and vfd, PLC to control it, end switches. It's currently on the healing bench but it will be built.. So, my only recommendation is that you look into that as well, more computers!
Sticker is perfect IMO... right on.
And I lived in Minneapolis for several years... gay guy who lived upstairs once told me "If at first I don't succeed, I just keep on suckin'.
Cheers as always.
I visualized you in the sequel to A Christmas Story, where you are Triple Dog Dared to stick your tongue to a frozen flag pole .... that is electrified! Shocking!
Oh fuck yeah, I can already tell it’s a good video just by watching the first 4 seconds and hearing the good ole dewclaws voice!!
Heck yeah! Got a few gray Jay stickers in the cart now, going to go grab some of the fresh stuff and proceed to check out!
About to marry the better 3/4 on friday. Love your shit man, been here for years, keep it up! Bought stickers in the past will be buying more when I can
Thanks 🙏 for the video and the new stickers I just ordered 😍
As Jerk Of All Trades points out, you need expansion space; the splitter blades are effectively compressing the wood as they split it when you have parallel geometry like that
Great vid as always. AvE . Love the stickers. I aint got any scratch right now. But hopefully these stickers will be in stock when i have some. Your vids always give me a laugh. Have a great one!
"We have segment on this podcast called...Safety 3rd"
plays jingle: >>Shake hands with danger
Those stickers are gonna be a perfect addition on my truck. Same here, the EMT's are gonna die laughing
Recommendation: stagger the splitting blades, have one in the center a bit forward of a pair on the sides. This allows the log to split into 2 and then when it's split into 4 the middle 2 pieces can come back together in the space behind the middle center blade. The problem you seem to be running into with the other designs is a lack of places for the dead tree carcass to physically go. Something about trying to take up the same space as the blades themselves + hydraulics = an interesting jigsaw puzzle for the first responders.
In addition to that, a follower of some kind, whether built into the pusher plate or just a big block you can set into the splitting area, that will push the recently seperated bits of elf craft material out of the blade area will help quite a bit.
Brother, Your Senseless Humor always gets me to put my pearly whites on display ~
& this clip is 1 of Your best...
I was LOL'ing so loud my neighbors shouted at me to Shut The Fuck Up!!
* the First Responders bit nearly made me lose my shit!! 😂
Tried fancying up the wedge on my splitter too. Same problem everything broke off or bent to hell no matter how thick. Go huge or grab the maul and sledge.
Frustrated at the inability to modify one part of the splitter I added a crane to pick up the logs and giant half pieces of logs after they fall on my toes. 5 pounds of 7018 a couple new hoses and a 4 way lever and I got up, down, extend and retract. Saves the spine pretty good.
I've ALWAYS said, "If it ain't broke, fix 'til it is"!
I worked a couple months at a small commercial log splitting place. From what I recall the setup was like this:
• The pusher piston was the splitter and was a big beefy X shape.
• The piston was vertical and came down from above the log.
• There was a number of solid metal rollers on the unsplit side so you could pre load a bunch of logs, or have a second person continuously load.
• To operate the piston there was a big beefy foot lever you stood on. When not pressed the splitter would return to the retracted position.
Hope this gives you some ideas. I think by moving the splitter to the shaft and making it an X you can get some pretty good strength, but not sure how well that will work horizontally?
has now fully developed his own personal language
I've had a tought on making a log splitter and it goes as follows: No need to weld the splitting wedge, it's hardened steel so it won't stick anyways. Instead weld a slot from a couple of plates for the blade to sit in. If in need of a more support, bolt a brace at the top of the blade, extending to front or back. If one is to use a four- or a six-way blade, this slot system with a spring and a foot operated cam allows for some adjustment of the horisontal splitting height. The wood chute needs to open up right after the split, both horisontally and vertically.
And the reason not making this splitter yet: my old man does the splitting. He uses a cylinder with a pusher and a one way blade. Behind the blade and at the side of the pusher he has kind of a log table so splitting multiple times is not such a chore as he doesn't need to pick the logs from ground.
Speaking of this (homemade) old splitter: some stickers could do.
I feel like Captain America when I read that "Shake Hands with Danger" sticker.
"I got that reference"
lmao
And here I've been using a manual log splitter all these years!
Ordered immediately. Safety first.
U rock an love the stickers.keep up the knowledge spreading.
Those little stickers look pretty good I wouldn’t mind having one for the workshop
The stickers department at DeWalt are envious on how well you placed your stickers on 🤣
Once I get the scratch my hard hat will be festooned with your stickers. Cannot wait.
I feel you may need to go half organic - try fitting hockey skates on a clog dancing beaver & whistling the Lumberjack Song.
During my younger days as an inexperienced press operator I loaded up a scrap chute with slugs to the tune of 800 tons for the better part of a 2 hour run. Tonnage monitor saved the press but not before it bent the 2 inch parallels under the die at least a pack of cigarettes width. A fist sized divot in the bolster plate remains til this very day. Die was sent to the scrap pile. 9800 lbs of scrap so not a total loss 😂