The first Wax is like a primer. Use a wax that melts easily and is easily aborbed. Any easily melted Glide wax suitable for warm temperatures works well. This improves the absorption and bonding of colder, temperature specific Glide Waxes...Saul
J’adore les instructions de Saul dans tous ses vidéos. Il parle lentement et clairement. Je pratique le skate depuis 3 ans et je suis fan de la coupe du monde.
very good tips for me along the whole Video....the best i catched for me was the 45/45 deg scraping ....it really makes sense for me, by the way- i made already some marks with the scraper, so it is really logical and brilliant tip for me! thank you a lot!
It is possible to clamp your skis into your workmate, but it isn't ideal. You will have to be very careful of applying too much pressure on the side walls. There is a reason that we recommend pupose built tools. A proper ski vice or ski form provide a stable and safe platform for working on your skis. They hold on to your skis by the bindings and give you full access to the entire base and side walls. It is best to use your workmate as a base for a ski form or vice.
Here’s a practical question... say we are getting a week of colder than normal temps and I have to use a blue/cold glide wax instead of the warmer wax that’s already on my skis. Do I need to clean and start your process from the beginning, or do I just apply the cold wax over top of whatever is on there?
In the info box you mention this is for classic or skate and for the latter I have always waxed the whole ski. Should I only be waxing the "glide zones" for skate and if so, what should I do with the area under foot?
Hi Saul, great videos! I have a question for you. I followed your instructions for grip wax using a klister base binder and adding harder wax etc. The wax of the day I used was a blue special for new snow at about -5C. I seemed to get an ice/frost build up under the ski which led to some snow sticking and then a lack of glide. I wondered what this meant or what I needed to do differently? Many thanks
Klister base binder will make all covering waxes more grippy. It is best used sparingly; thin and short. If it is too sticky cover with less sticky wax. If your blue wax was too sticky cover with more layers of blue or even green wax. Temperature is just a starting point.
Hi Saul... i have two (4me) very important questions.. first one is how long you actually have to wait before you start scrubing final wax off (you mentioned you have to wait to cool down the base completely (I use swix wax from -3 to -8 C° and the temperature of the iron have to be pointed to 140C°)) becose I really struggle to scrape this swix wax off the base.... and the second question is how do you clean your (nylon, horse hair, iron..) brushes after this work.. tnx4yranswers
If you have trouble scrapping hard glide wax, try a light smoothing scrape while the wax is still warm. Final scraping should be done when the ski has cooled to room temperature. If your brushes get really dirty (this takes several seasons for me) rinse them with boiling water.
Can I lightly clamp my xc skis into a Black and Decker Workmate Bench by clamping the skis against their sidewalls for waxing or will it damage my skis?
+Sarah McCarty It all depends on how valuable the performance gains are to you. 1 to 3 percent is important for racing. For recreation re-wax when the base shows signs of dryness.
Hi everyone, I have a used pair of older, Fischer, cross country skis. When I bought them I noticed they are all "gummy" and sticky, as though labels, stickers, or old ski wax got on them. Specifically the deck, and the bindings and edges are a mess. While I know how to wax ski bottoms, I am wondering what I can use to remove all the gunk on the deck. Can I use Acetone? or MEK? Soap and water will not work. It's like trying to remove a sticker label from a jar without using an abrasive technique. Any ideas? Isopropyl alcohol maybe?
it's hard for to imagine that the steel brush prep (gouging into the ptex) isnt damaging the skis. say you wax 30x a season X 6 years. that's a lot of gouging. is this going to destroy your skis sooner? would only serious racers do this w/ the understanding that you'd need new skis every few years from overly gouged bases? for recreational skiers...do you recommend not doing this step (and perhaps just wipe down the ski w/ citrus cleaner as a prep instead?)
If you are concerned, use a stiff nylon brush. Wax removers remove all wax. We are trying to just remove the excess wax from the base structure. It is best to avoid drying out the base with solvents.
Would you ever/periodically want to apply glide wax to the entire classic ski (including grip zone) to serve as a "primer" to protect the ski surface, kind of like a moistuizer, or is grip wax/klister sufficient to provide that kind of protection?
+Allyson Yund Some people believe glide wax is not a good primer for grip wax. For non-fluoro waxes I don't think it is significant...so you can use glide wax to protect the entire base if you like.
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Is 'fibertex' the same as a scotch-brite pad (or something similar in a different brand?)
If you have waxable skis (no fish-scales) you will minimally need grip wax for the skis to function. Base wax improves durability for longer skiing without rewaxing. Glide wax improves glide and reduces ware on the bases. It is all optional.
Thanks for the awesome videos! I was actually searching for a vise that allows to work on both skis at the same time, like in your videos, but most vises are for a single ski, including the ones currently on sale at velotique. Do you have any tips on how you came up with your vise? Maybe that's a topic for a new video?
+Dan Wiersgalla The common practice is to not put glide wax in the grip zone of classic skis. Some believe glide wax reduces the adhesion of grip wax. You can apply Base Binder to the grip zone or leave it wax-free prior to applying the appropriate grip wax for the day.
Saul's video series for cross country ski waxing and ski techniques are amongst the best I've seen on the internet.
Thanks Saul for this instructional video. I have used this video for many years with great results.
Glad to hear it.
The first Wax is like a primer. Use a wax that melts easily and is easily aborbed. Any easily melted Glide wax suitable for warm temperatures works well. This improves the absorption and bonding of colder, temperature specific Glide Waxes...Saul
J’adore les instructions de Saul dans tous ses vidéos. Il parle lentement et clairement. Je pratique le skate depuis 3 ans et je suis fan de la coupe du monde.
Je vous remercie. Continuer à skier
Thanks Saul. I appreciate your thorough explanations. Off to try it now.
very good tips for me along the whole Video....the best i catched for me was the 45/45 deg scraping ....it really makes sense for me, by the way- i made already some marks with the scraper, so it is really logical and brilliant tip for me! thank you a lot!
Yes...Glide wax process is the same.
Snow boards have no grip zone...so no base binder or grip wax...Saul
2024 (and 2022 2023) Vasa. Thank you Saul.
Start with a hot scrape to clean new skis and continue with priming and final waxing...Saul
On Skate skis the entire base is the glide zone. Glide waxe the full length, from tip to tale. There is no grip zone on skate skis....Saul
It is possible to clamp your skis into your workmate, but it isn't ideal. You will have to be very careful of applying too much pressure on the side walls. There is a reason that we recommend pupose built tools. A proper ski vice or ski form provide a stable and safe platform for working on your skis. They hold on to your skis by the bindings and give you full access to the entire base and side walls. It is best to use your workmate as a base for a ski form or vice.
Here’s a practical question... say we are getting a week of colder than normal temps and I have to use a blue/cold glide wax instead of the warmer wax that’s already on my skis. Do I need to clean and start your process from the beginning, or do I just apply the cold wax over top of whatever is on there?
Just apply the new wax. With glide wax new wax simply displaces the old wax. Remember glide wax is in the bas not on it in layers.
In the info box you mention this is for classic or skate and for the latter I have always waxed the whole ski. Should I only be waxing the "glide zones" for skate and if so, what should I do with the area under foot?
Hi Saul, great videos! I have a question for you. I followed your instructions for grip wax using a klister base binder and adding harder wax etc. The wax of the day I used was a blue special for new snow at about -5C. I seemed to get an ice/frost build up under the ski which led to some snow sticking and then a lack of glide. I wondered what this meant or what I needed to do differently? Many thanks
Klister base binder will make all covering waxes more grippy. It is best used sparingly; thin and short. If it is too sticky cover with less sticky wax. If your blue wax was too sticky cover with more layers of blue or even green wax. Temperature is just a starting point.
what is the yellow "primer" wax that you used as a "base"? shall i use it after sanding a damaged base? shall i use it on a brand new ski?
Swix CH 10. Great as a first coat primer.
Thanks for the great instructions. How do you clean your scraper? Mine gets really dirty quickly.
Scrape wax off with another scraper, use boiling water or wax remover.
Hi Saul... i have two (4me) very important questions.. first one is how long you actually have to wait before you start scrubing final wax off (you mentioned you have to wait to cool down the base completely (I use swix wax from -3 to -8 C° and the temperature of the iron have to be pointed to 140C°)) becose I really struggle to scrape this swix wax off the base.... and the second question is how do you clean your (nylon, horse hair, iron..) brushes after this work.. tnx4yranswers
becose = because ... excuse my English-language =)
If you have trouble scrapping hard glide wax, try a light smoothing scrape while the wax is still warm. Final scraping should be done when the ski has cooled to room temperature. If your brushes get really dirty (this takes several seasons for me) rinse them with boiling water.
Can I lightly clamp my xc skis into a Black and Decker Workmate Bench by clamping the skis against their sidewalls for waxing or will it damage my skis?
i always.finish after nylon brush by polishing my surface with soft brush, i find it gives a better glide, what do you thinl?
Can you please specify what wax (i.e. temp zone and/or brand) would you reco for 1. "primer wax" and 2. initial hot scrape. Thx
I use Swix CH10 as a primer wax and for a hot scrape.
How often should we do this? At the start of the year, more often? Thanks, great video series.
+Sarah McCarty It all depends on how valuable the performance gains are to you. 1 to 3 percent is important for racing. For recreation re-wax when the base shows signs of dryness.
Hi everyone,
I have a used pair of older, Fischer, cross country skis. When I bought them I noticed they are all "gummy" and sticky, as though labels, stickers, or old ski wax got on them. Specifically the deck, and the bindings and edges are a mess. While I know how to wax ski bottoms, I am wondering what I can use to remove all the gunk on the deck. Can I use Acetone? or MEK? Soap and water will not work. It's like trying to remove a sticker label from a jar without using an abrasive technique. Any ideas? Isopropyl alcohol maybe?
Do not use Acetone, Use wax remover. Mineral spirits or Varsol will also dissolve wax residue, not alcohol.
Well said, thank you.
You're welcome.
it's hard for to imagine that the steel brush prep (gouging into the ptex) isnt damaging the skis. say you wax 30x a season X 6 years. that's a lot of gouging. is this going to destroy your skis sooner? would only serious racers do this w/ the understanding that you'd need new skis every few years from overly gouged bases? for recreational skiers...do you recommend not doing this step (and perhaps just wipe down the ski w/ citrus cleaner as a prep instead?)
If you are concerned, use a stiff nylon brush. Wax removers remove all wax. We are trying to just remove the excess wax from the base structure. It is best to avoid drying out the base with solvents.
Thanks for the video. Just curious, what is the groove down the middle of the ski for?
The groove on the center of ski is supposed to help the ski track straight.
what is a difference between Regular and Fluro wax?
Same wax with the addition of Fuoro additive. Improves water repellency.
Would you ever/periodically want to apply glide wax to the entire classic ski (including grip zone) to serve as a "primer" to protect the ski surface, kind of like a moistuizer, or is grip wax/klister sufficient to provide that kind of protection?
+Allyson Yund Some people believe glide wax is not a good primer for grip wax. For non-fluoro waxes I don't think it is significant...so you can use glide wax to protect the entire base if you like.
Is 'fibertex' the same as a scotch-brite pad (or something similar in a different brand?)
DrHillbillyShow Yes it is similar.
For cross country touring do i need a base wax, glide wax and grip wax? excuse my terminology im new to this
If you have waxable skis (no fish-scales) you will minimally need grip wax for the skis to function. Base wax improves durability for longer skiing without rewaxing. Glide wax improves glide and reduces ware on the bases. It is all optional.
Who to remove shuttle grip
What are those clamps/jigs you have your skis on, and where did you get them?
+Alan McKay Compact ski vices are essential for working on your skis. They are available at most specialty cross-country ski shops, www.velotique.com
Thanks for the awesome videos! I was actually searching for a vise that allows to work on both skis at the same time, like in your videos, but most vises are for a single ski, including the ones currently on sale at velotique. Do you have any tips on how you came up with your vise? Maybe that's a topic for a new video?
What temp is your iron set to?
Temperature depends on Wax. Yellow Glide Wax 110C, F4 Universal 135C, Pure Fluoro Powders 145+
What about under foot, do you put any wax or anything under your foot on the base?
+Dan Wiersgalla The common practice is to not put glide wax in the grip zone of classic skis. Some believe glide wax reduces the adhesion of grip wax. You can apply Base Binder to the grip zone or leave it wax-free prior to applying the appropriate grip wax for the day.
itSaul good man
Thank you. I'm glad you found it informative.