Those CTT VGTs get stuck a lot less compared to the articulated foil/vane design of the other big turbo manufacturers. Aside from carbon and oil buildup, I’ve never heard of an OEM Cummins VGT nozzle ring failing in like the last dozen years. Their wear resistance is really what makes them stand out compared to the articulated designs. They even handle FOD really well. Must be some damn good nitriding I’d imagine. Have you seen much chipping or deforming of the nozzle ring vanes? Occasionally I see some, but never had it seize. What do you think? Great video man.
So if we were to do it all over again probably would have left the stock nozzle ring on the hot side and just changed the nozzle only. After 250k they looked pretty good in this turbo we just wanted to see if it was going to make a difference (very little if any) but the actuator is a issue in the 4th gens and some 5th we have been through 2 so far and about to try one now before we ditch this turbo for a new one
@@DIYKAII’m probably older than I should be to attempt this rebuild but your videos pushed me toward it. Anyway, I’ve given the turbo shaft some pretty good wallops with a rubber mallet, but nothing. Once the compressor fan is removed there is nothing physical keeping the shaft in place, right? Thanks, Kai!
@@barotraumabruce4245 yes once you remove the compressor side (intake) put the nut back on and hit it....you can spray it with wd40 or pb blast to help its most likely carbon hanging it up
@@DIYKAIawesome!! I have a 2018 ram 3500… would this be the same process?? I have dug into it yet so I’m not sure which turbo I have but I’m having a lost communication with the turbo code… I have to take the actuator off and check the shaft
@@BIG-AL-GARAGE yes i believe from 07 up was the HE351VE look at the sticker on the side of the actuator it should say......definitely check the actuator arm you should be able to move it with one finger and hear a metalic clunk at the stops any resistance and its probably carbon filled.......check shaft play also on the turbine a little side to side is ok ZERO in and out
What causes that? I thought I had a failed actuator and after 2 attempts and successful calibration I still have no exhaust brake? I noticed my nozzle goes past the alignment hole?
Fortunately we had a good set of bearings to measure and the turbo labs one from Amazon is spot on they even include oversized in case you need them most don't though
Those CTT VGTs get stuck a lot less compared to the articulated foil/vane design of the other big turbo manufacturers.
Aside from carbon and oil buildup, I’ve never heard of an OEM Cummins VGT nozzle ring failing in like the last dozen years. Their wear resistance is really what makes them stand out compared to the articulated designs. They even handle FOD really well. Must be some damn good nitriding I’d imagine.
Have you seen much chipping or deforming of the nozzle ring vanes? Occasionally I see some, but never had it seize. What do you think?
Great video man.
So if we were to do it all over again probably would have left the stock nozzle ring on the hot side and just changed the nozzle only. After 250k they looked pretty good in this turbo we just wanted to see if it was going to make a difference (very little if any) but the actuator is a issue in the 4th gens and some 5th we have been through 2 so far and about to try one now before we ditch this turbo for a new one
@@DIYKAI thanks so much for the response! Have a great day.
@@maritimeus your welcome! You as well!
Where did you get your exhaust downspout or what is the brand name?
@@jshlds46 are you talking about the down pipe that comes off the turbo?
@@DIYKAI yes
@@jshlds46 its the stock one because this is the stock turbo 4in
How do you take the shaft out of
Should come out with a slight tap rubber mallet or wood only
@@DIYKAII’m probably older than I should be to attempt this rebuild but your videos pushed me toward it. Anyway, I’ve given the turbo shaft some pretty good wallops with a rubber mallet, but nothing. Once the compressor fan is removed there is nothing physical keeping the shaft in place, right? Thanks, Kai!
@@barotraumabruce4245 yes once you remove the compressor side (intake) put the nut back on and hit it....you can spray it with wd40 or pb blast to help its most likely carbon hanging it up
@@DIYKAIYep, soot and stuff was holding it and I was being too gentle. Thanks, Kai!
@@barotraumabruce4245 good deal I was going to say hit it with your purse 😅😅😅 JKJK glad you got it bro. Comment back if you need more info
Where did you order the rebuild kit from?
Amazon, we updated the description with links.
@@DIYKAI OK I see it now thanks man I appreciate it
@@BIG-AL-GARAGE no worries good luck we have 10K on the rebuild so far
@@DIYKAIawesome!! I have a 2018 ram 3500… would this be the same process?? I have dug into it yet so I’m not sure which turbo I have but I’m having a lost communication with the turbo code… I have to take the actuator off and check the shaft
@@BIG-AL-GARAGE yes i believe from 07 up was the HE351VE look at the sticker on the side of the actuator it should say......definitely check the actuator arm you should be able to move it with one finger and hear a metalic clunk at the stops any resistance and its probably carbon filled.......check shaft play also on the turbine a little side to side is ok ZERO in and out
The hole to the left of the nozzle is your starting point. It has gone over the 0 point and into the negative.
Still running strong
What causes that? I thought I had a failed actuator and after 2 attempts and successful calibration I still have no exhaust brake? I noticed my nozzle goes past the alignment hole?
Just FYI, there are many horror stories about Amazon turbo rebuild kits, mostly because of unbalanced vanes/compressor/shaft.
We reused the OEM shaft 15K hard miles still running strong
Fortunately we had a good set of bearings to measure and the turbo labs one from Amazon is spot on they even include oversized in case you need them most don't though