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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ก.ค. 2024
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Thanks for the video. Common sense goes a long way when keeping an aquarium, and your videos contain heaps of common sense. Take care. I was really please to hear in a recent Aquarium Co-Op video that Cory is looking into working with you all, especially when it comes to higher value stock. To me, it seems like a logical match and I hope you two do find a way to work together.
Dan Dan, the science man!!
Thank you Dan, I love the way you lay it out so that anyone with a fair bit of scientific knowledge follow without loosing sight of the reality. Great job, I love nerdy stuff made simple.
good stuff ty
Another well done video Dan!
Good information. Thanks Dan for sharing.🙏✌️👍💯
Thanks Dan!
Thanks for the video!
I really like the way you guys did this vid, much appreciation for the way you guys focused on the natural stream vs pond explanation, very cool! I really like the way Dan the fish man explains the science stuff! ✌️
And oh yeah, next video maybe explain to people that water conditioners may be too stressful for some species to endure, and in high enough concentrations may affect oxygen concentrations and availability in your tank.
Good job Dan!
Well done Dan!! I have filed this video away. It will be a future share video when I meet newbies to the hobby. Thank you 👍
Your delivery is tremendous, great job.
Very good information
Lovely
Great video. Simple easy to understand explanation about the why in water changes. I’ll have to try storing and off gassing water before I add it to my fish tanks.
Top Notch video!
Thank you so much for actually citing research!!!! Lol sorry, im a little excited when youtubers actually use acedemic and scientific logic and reasoning instead of opinions and conjecture.
Plus i mean, you could start any video, simply showing you care for thousands of fish sucessfully... it shows your credibility instantly in my mind.
Also, great approach... that will help everyone. Im pro-testing as well! I can tell by observation, what MY tanks parameters will be...within reason. But id suggest any new keeper... to check often....and everyone test slightly less often ( if they understand their tanks) haha.
Top notch video! Thanks Dan.
Beautifully explained…… mic 🎤 drop moment.
Love this video! You don't know how long it took me to learn everything in this video on my own. I wish I could have watched this 20+ years ago when I started keeping fish.
Hopefully, we can save the next generation of fish keepers from learning the hard way!
Very smooth and easy to understand explanation grats Dan i myself apply both methods i measure my larger planted tanks and just routinely change on my smaler tanks 1x every 2 weeks large planted tanks can go atleast in my case even a month or so without water change
... I'm new to this hobby ... You explained it well bro
Thanks for this! In my opinion this is by far the best, most concise and even science based video on the subject. Maybe a mention of treating with a product to make tap water safe (chlorine, chloramine, heavy metals) might have been worthwhile?
Yes. I've had enough comments regarding the chlorine, etc. that I guess I should have mentioned it.
@@DansFish great video though Dan, thanks for what you do!
Great video. To be honest I dont think I've ever lost a fish due to a water change or have stressed them. Possibly Cherry shrimp might have been.
I haven't changed water in my tanks since 2022. There are no issues with the water. I use a canister filters and have not opened them since then. Plants love fish waste and nitrates are always low. If you need to change water that means you are over feeding the fish or dont have enough plants or the right substrate.
Tick....tick....tick...
I'm the same, perfect parameters, soil substrate with a thick sand cap and tons of plants.
Yay, spangled perch an Aussie fish I have kept, gets a mention! They are perhaps one of the hardiest desert adapted fishes in the country.
Use Zeolite or Purigen and do small (20%-25%) water changes every other week. You only need large water changes if you can't get the nitrates down any other way. I have had tanks that I almost never changed water in and the fish lived a normal lifespan and reproduced. The primary driver of needing large water changes is overstocking.
ive got a decently stocked tank (10 rosy tetras, 5 serpae tetras, 3 neon tetras, 10 danios, 2 rainbow sharks, 3 hovering zebra loaches, 1 common pleco, 20 neocaridin shrimp and a kissing fish) all in a 345 litre tank. my nitrates was always high even after 50% water changes every week, switched from sand to fluval stratum , added loads of live plants with co2 and now my nitrates never go above 20ppm. i am giving the common pleco and kissing fish to my sister once she is able to setup her tank as i much prefer smaller fish and the pleco loves to dig up the aquarium
Are you familiar with the annamox method? Erik Brion posts about this on Facebook and TH-cam and has an article in German language Amazonas issue 105. I have used this on my 335 gallon planted tank and have not changed water since setting it up 4 months ago (just topoffs)
If you are referring to anoxic filtration, then yes, I'm familiar with it. Basically, create an anoxic zone in your system. I think for specialists, it is a fun thing to play with.
Great video! I watch fish videos to get me motivated before doing all my water changes! 😊👍🐠
Do you also play Eye of the Tiger?
@@DansFish I’ve been thinking of a great comeback all day and only resorted to watching more Tiger barb videos. Lol 😂 and now I wanna get some.
I love the air stone/heater tip the day before a water change. We did this at the zoo where I worked for amphibians. Great tip!!
What kind of amphibians did you keep at the zoo?
@@DansFish Well….we had a Chinese giant salamander that we got in the mid1960s and lived with us until about 2011 or so. One of our last curators, Dr. Joe Mendelson personally discovered 40+ species of amphibians and got to name them all. One, the Rabb’s tree frog, we had the pleasure of keeping on display. Otherwise, we had all the usual suspects: Panamanian golden frogs, glass frogs, evergreen toads, dusky salamanders, mole and seal salamanders, red salamanders etc….all the dart frogs, hellbenders, amphiumas, ceceilians, axolotils, and everything you’d expect to see in a really large collection. I started in 1998 and left in 2016. I had a good long zoo career. Now I work in research. Recently, I’ve worked with green tree frog studies, zebra fish and shell dwelling cichlids. Thanks for asking. I love your channel and your facility in Wyoming is massive!! I learn something new every time I watch. Absolutely loved your deep dive into blind Mexican cave fish. I love how much your efforts focus on education. Thanks a bunch!!!!
Oh and fun fact: my old curator, Howard Hunt, was bitten by a black mamba the day after Thanksgiving, 1992 and survived. He was featured in a National Geographic documentary about black mambas and his bite was re-enacted (hilariously to me). One of my other curators, the late Susan M. Barnard was an expert in bats and wrote several books used by zoos and veterinarians. I had a really good linage of bosses over the years.
My question is how to get the water that's in the container or drum into the fish tank. I love using a python for 75 gallon. I also have several tanks. Lifting 5g jugs gets tough over time.
There are several types of water pumps that will easily move the water from your container to your aquarium via a hose.
@@DansFish thank you, sir master mongerer Dan! 👍
Good explanation for water changes. I have heard that you can't gas-off if you water source is treated with chloramines though. You must use a dechlorinator for chloramines. If chlorine is used in source water gas-off works.
My understanding of chloramines is the same. I'm not saying anything in the vid about dechlorinating...I'm just suggesting that folks allow their water to become stable before adding it to their aquarium instead of hosing it in straight out of the tap. Dichlorination and the like may still be necessary.
I run a lot of tanks so my water change schedule is always, as often as I can! I'm never going to change too much water, so I'd rather know I'm doing my best to keep the water clean, rather than putting it off. I have three groups of tanks so I have a day to fill my water treatment drums and treat/heat the water, then a day to do the changes, and a day off at the end of the week. In reality other things pop up and the schedule doesn't always happen that way but it's usually pretty close and a tank almost never goes as long as 2 weeks without a water change.
Your fins are lucky to have you.
Heres an important finding i have discovered regarding about chloramines in city tap water.
The part where you said to degass the new tap water is cruicial. I have done tons of water changes straight from the tap and the fish gets stressed due to the reasons you mentioned.
Since last year I have bought a food grade 55 gallon blue barrel to do so for $5. Was used for organic lip balm company for glycerin.
I have also found out that my local water municipal uses chloramine, so i have to treat it with a dechlorinator such as prime.
In doing so it separates into ammonia and chlorine. I was reading 2 ppm ammonia or more from tap water.
I have tried just degassing it for a week with dechlorinator and an airstone and it stayed 2 ppm ammonia. I have tried degassing and using zeolite to absorb the ammonia, only to converting it to 2 ppm nitrite after 1 week which is worse as theres no other chemical media removes nitrite in our hobby thats available. And can be expensive in the long run.
So after multiple brainstorming ideas,factoring budget, so i tried a cycled sponge filter and that did the job converting ammonia into nitrate in just 3 days.
So I have been aging my water with a cycled sponge filter for at least 1 week and refilling my barrel between water changes.
I would do about 80% water change every 1 to 2 week in my 75 gallon aquarium. And fish can tell the water is cleaner and they are not stressed at all even at 80%.
So test your tap water for ammonia and nitrite also.
I use API test kit using tap water, cycled fish water and ro/di water for confirmation of the results.
I dont heat the water up in my barrel.
I have 5 koi ranging from 8 to 12 incher in size and i feed a lot and they poop alot thats why i change that much and that frequently. I have plants in my sump and canopy to help some.
In the summer i use the fish water to store and water my garden in my backyard.
I have video for proof
@madlos123
Do you use a Python water charger?
No but i use a 1/4 hp utility pump to pump water from my basement to my tank on the main floor. And i use the aqueon water changer tubing i had in the past for doing water changes.
I've seen the same thing with ammonia after using regular water conditioner on my source tap water that has chloramines. Because of that, I've been using API Ammo Lock as my water conditioner. It gets rid of the ammonia right away and I put the new water in right after.
@@johnmadlos1969 nice. Thanks for your insight. Cheers.
@@cut419ram do you get any color change for ammonia if you test it straight out of the tap? I mean without the water conditioner. Cuz I get a slight green no matter what. My eye thinks it's 0.25 ppm Ammonia, whether it's tap or cycled tank water.
Wow, how refreshing to hear these sensible and well balanced advices!
I get so tired of the clickbait videos telling people not to change their water and don’t do testing because all you need is a deep substrate and high nitrate levels are fine. I’ve been in this hobby for 40+ years and I know what’s right and wrong by now. Thanks for the great video.
My tank is planted so heavily that my ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels are consistently zero... but I still keep an eye on it!
Edit: I also vacuum the substrate when the mulm starts significantly detracting from the appearance of the tank, so while changing the water might not be the primary intent behind vacuuming the substrate it does amount to doing partial water changes.
If you try looking at the deep substate it is kinda funny what "deep" means to some ppl
Yes!
It is important to understand: *Father Fish does not do water changes NOT because his approach ensures low nitrate levels, but because he does not believe that high nitrate levels are harmful to the fish!*
💣 Father has very few small fish per gallon in the tank, "hungry fish = healthy fish", few small fish that are fed little and rarely produces little waste, "nitrates and algae are not a problem", "nitrates harm the fish if they are above 500".
💣 Kevin Novak wants a lot of big fish per gallon, "I want to feed the fish a lot every day several times a day", this produces a lot of waste, "nitrate levels are very low in nature", "plants don't need a lot of nitrogen", "I don't want algae ".
As a result, we have the following.
💣 Few hungry fish per gallon, a little waste, a ton of plants, nitrate 400 (FOUR HUNDRED), relatively a lot of algae - Father makes videos "My successful aquariums", "You shouldn't do water changes", "Algae is your beast?", "Nitrate is not an issue", "300 aquariums 8 years - 0 maintenance!", water changes - once every six months.
💣Lots of fish per gallon, lots of food lots of waste, few plants, nitrate 40 (FORTY), my tank has a little algae - Kevin Novak makes a video "This Tank Fails, I Reset It!"
Thus, *Father's successful aquarium and Kevin Novak's successful aquarium are completely different things!!!*
Please note: Father does not test the water for nitrate, this is not an issue for him! Try to find at least one video of him measuring nitrate levels! In contrast, you will find a bunch of videos in which Kevin Novak makes and shows the nitrate level: *he wants it to be zero, like in nature! Kevin Novak strives to have nitrate levels in the aquarium similar to those found in nature! And Father has nitrate levels up to 500 (FIVE HUNDRED) and talks about a "natural aquarium".*
@@DEXTER-TV-series How the f do you know Father Fish nitrate level is 500 if you said before he never measures it? I sense BS.
@@neutronshiva2498 _How the f do you know Father Fish nitrate level is 500 if you said before he never measures it? I sense BS._
You don't need to sense, you just need to think: when he talks about the level at which nitrates are harmful, he is quoting some source.
Would you do water changes if nitrates never go above 10ppm and all other parameters are stable?
👍🏻👍🏻
Hi Dan. I think you forgot to mention chlorine and especially chloramine! If your municipal water treatment plant uses chloramine to treat water then off-gassing isn't going to remove it. You need to treat your water with an additive to remove the chloramine.
You're right, I'm not talking about chloramine. I'm just saying let's get the water parameters stable before adding it to the aquarium.
Professor Dan, I keep my water param safe but regardless of nitrates, KH, or GH, I see a huge difference when I do a large water change. My ornamental fish seem happier, my puffer's seem pissed off (but very temporarily). So I about once a month I still do it even if there's no nitrate in the water and GH/KH/pH is stable. I believe the build up of dissolved proteins is doing more than we can test with test kits.
Also Dr. Novak explains anoxic a little differently. I think only anaerobic bacteria create nitrate gas. I am not sure on this.
But as for as reducing nitrate buildup, lavarock in a low-flow part of the tank is all you need.
I agree...fish come to life after a water change.
OK, Dan, the Lord knows I love you but I am going to ask a stupid question. If you age your water as you shown, is it still necessary to add water treatment to it? If you do, is it better to let that treatment "age" into the water (say 24 more hours) so to bring water total chemistry to a stable basis before adding it to the tank?
I'm not claiming this as a way to avoid having to detoxify chloramine and the like. It is just a way to make sure your water is stable before adding it to your aquarium. It may very well still contain chloramine and the like which will require the addition of dechlorinating chemicals, but at least the water won't rapidly change pH or be hyper-saturated with nitrogen gas when it is added to the aquarium. Parameters will be steadier...that's all I'm saying.
Great advice Dan
Aku mengerti sekarang! Terimakasih
Terima kasih kembali
Great video!
Sorry to make another post. I love the art work your team produces. But I only keep Neocaridina Shrimp. Is there any way your artist might do up a shrimp design in the same design language/style as your fish designs? I'd love to have some merch with that design. Also, I live in Colorado, but Southern part, and didn't make it to your open house/bar b que last Summer. Any chance you're going to do another one in the future? I'm retired now, and I'm limited in cash for buying fish and fish keeping stuff, and in space to do that, but I do have a shrimp tank, and I watch a lot of Fishkeeping Twitter, and would love to meet you and your team. Plus I haven't been up to Wyoming in a few years and would love an excuse to get back.
We do plan to have another 4th of July BBQ event here this summer. Will be announcing details once the holiday craziness is behind us. We don't have any plans to increase our merch designs in the near future, but will be revisiting as we get a bit farther down the road.
here comes dan if he cant do it nobody can👍👍hard question to answer but you cracked it right now here dan it freezing bad just this morning the lollypop man who takes the kids safely cross roads their warm gear is all white poor old chap got runover with a snow plough 😘😘i catch minnows and sticklebacks for the university in minnow traps no luck too cold but i came up with a cunning plan red paper box of matches in trap works a tret best wishes jj from paisley🤣🤣
I bet Aquarium Coop is sending Dan and crew their Test strips soon ✌🏽😂
Just don't be lazy and do at least a 10% wc a week test and do more as needed there urs 1 size to start
If you have the budget and space for it, here's another option for doing water changes with safe, clean, clear water: an RO/DI system. Every week, I remove 50% of the water in my tanks and replace it with water that was cleaned by an RO/DI system. In my experience, RO/DI water results in far less algae, better plant growth and improved fish health. There are lots of videos on how to do this, and many systems available for purchase. RO/DI water does have to be remineralized (i.e., you have to add back to the water anything your fish and plants need, such as calcium and magnesium). There are commercially available products for doing this.
I am pro water change! Plants love it, too! I change 50-80% per week.
Absolutely true.
I do 100% water changes every hour.
Me too!
@@DansFish Hehe my pond gets a constant trickle from the river and then just overflows down the hill 😂
Water changes are also needed to remove growth regulating hormones.
100 ppm is sewer water and they still live more than a few minutes in it. This is the most crazy part lol.
No it's not. Many fish species can live fairly long lives in water with 200+ ppm of Nitrate. One study showed it took 600 ppm of nitrate to be lethal to fathead minnows. Which aren't a particularly hardy fish either.
Good lesson. Hit like button guys
Water changes are good. Anyone who says otherwise is delusional. I do a 10% water change every week, and that keeps everything nice and fresh
Father-Fish
The FF method really works very well indeed, my tank has the same FF setup There is a video of a thank which has had no water change in the last 28 years and is still fine.
Sure. Some folks can pull a FF, but I don't think its for your average aquarist.
All this talk of impurities and toxins reaffirms my insistence that CO2 is worth avoiding. I change water routinely. Keep it Simple.
I don’t chase numbers.