Mesh to loose, you want a it to feel the slightest amount of play when moving the spur. Do it at multiple place as most of the time it is not perfectly round or centered. Also, the ball join, this is a lighweight toys, slack is better than not been 100% free. Be sure that without your shock connected, with the frame on the side that the arm are completely free.
I tightened up the mesh a bit more thanks! Good info I appreciate it. Yeah the ball is not tight or anything in the cup but doesn't move by itself if you shake it. More of slightly snug. 🤘
I agree ...that mesh was waaay too loose. Also you're running a 26 tooth pinion FYI not a 24 tooth like you stated in the video. Another great video though.... absolutely love your series brother ....keep it up !!!
@jokermahem666 well I learned something new lol thanks 🤣 Maybe the stock is 24? I don't know where I got that number stuck in my head. I appreciate you watching brother and I went ahead and tightened up the mesh a bit more as well 🤘
@@edriftin For sure.... In the video where you originally switched your opinion, he said you switched it to a 25 tooth. The stock pinion is a 22 tooth. But in this last video you can clearly see the 26 tooth marking on your pinion so I just wanted to give you a heads up 👍
Thanks a lot for the great video! I’d love to hear about your long-term experience with this setup. Have you noticed any wear or loosening issues over time? I’m currently dealing with significant wobble and play in the steering system of my RMX 2.5 S+. I’m unsure whether I should simply shim it for now and save some money to replace the chassis entirely with another brand, or should I invest in MST upgrades. I’d really appreciate it if you could share a few words based on your experience.
@kivancaktas thanks! So for me the yeah Racing arms had a bit more wobble than the mst branded ones for the front arms. I chose to go with the mst ones. I ended up changing the steering components and I feel the ball bearings and aluminum parts help to tighten up and make the steering a bit more precise with less wobble. Hope this helps.
Hi I got a question I am getting in to rc drifting and I want to buy an mst 2.5 i dont have the money for all these upgrades can you give me a list of the upgrades that are most needed. Greetings from switerland love your vids🇨🇭❤
Awesome to hear your getting into the hobby! I would recommend getting these parts for the best experience: www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-sp03-d-v2-programable-brushless-drift-servo-black-yoksp-03dv2a/p996638 www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-dp302-v4-drift-steering-gyro-yokdpp-302v4b/p868616
@jorin_ts3182 definitely the yokomo big bore shocks www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-yd2-super-low-friction-aluminum-big-bore-shock-set-red-yoky2-sbbsra/p1409295 Try the stock springs with them. For the rest I would go with a new transmitter. www.getfpv.com/radiomaster-mt12-surface-radio-controller-w-er3c-i-receiver-elrs-2-4ghz.html
Did u remove the stoppers because they were getting caught on the new ball cup for the lower arm? Currently having this problem with mine and still have the stock knuckles. Do you think upgrading to the yeah racing knuckles would help?
Mesh to loose, you want a it to feel the slightest amount of play when moving the spur. Do it at multiple place as most of the time it is not perfectly round or centered. Also, the ball join, this is a lighweight toys, slack is better than not been 100% free. Be sure that without your shock connected, with the frame on the side that the arm are completely free.
I tightened up the mesh a bit more thanks! Good info I appreciate it. Yeah the ball is not tight or anything in the cup but doesn't move by itself if you shake it. More of slightly snug. 🤘
"I went ahead and decided to go ahead and order....."
The paper trick for gear mesh is good but I'd tighten that mesh some more ur gunna destroy tht spur gear with it that loose
Thanks for the feedback! I just tightened the mesh a bit more 🤘
I agree ...that mesh was waaay too loose. Also you're running a 26 tooth pinion FYI not a 24 tooth like you stated in the video. Another great video though.... absolutely love your series brother ....keep it up !!!
@jokermahem666 well I learned something new lol thanks 🤣 Maybe the stock is 24? I don't know where I got that number stuck in my head. I appreciate you watching brother and I went ahead and tightened up the mesh a bit more as well 🤘
@@edriftin For sure.... In the video where you originally switched your opinion, he said you switched it to a 25 tooth. The stock pinion is a 22 tooth. But in this last video you can clearly see the 26 tooth marking on your pinion so I just wanted to give you a heads up 👍
Thanks a lot for the great video! I’d love to hear about your long-term experience with this setup. Have you noticed any wear or loosening issues over time?
I’m currently dealing with significant wobble and play in the steering system of my RMX 2.5 S+. I’m unsure whether I should simply shim it for now and save some money to replace the chassis entirely with another brand, or should I invest in MST upgrades.
I’d really appreciate it if you could share a few words based on your experience.
@kivancaktas thanks! So for me the yeah Racing arms had a bit more wobble than the mst branded ones for the front arms. I chose to go with the mst ones. I ended up changing the steering components and I feel the ball bearings and aluminum parts help to tighten up and make the steering a bit more precise with less wobble. Hope this helps.
@ thanks a lot, another one; do you need to use thread lock for aluminum parts ?
@kivancaktas definitely. I only use blue loctite
Hi I got a question I am getting in to rc drifting and I want to buy an mst 2.5 i dont have the money for all these upgrades can you give me a list of the upgrades that are most needed. Greetings from switerland love your vids🇨🇭❤
Awesome to hear your getting into the hobby! I would recommend getting these parts for the best experience:
www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-sp03-d-v2-programable-brushless-drift-servo-black-yoksp-03dv2a/p996638
www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-dp302-v4-drift-steering-gyro-yokdpp-302v4b/p868616
Thank you very much
Anything else i got still got about 250 to spend?
@jorin_ts3182 definitely the yokomo big bore shocks www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-yd2-super-low-friction-aluminum-big-bore-shock-set-red-yoky2-sbbsra/p1409295
Try the stock springs with them. For the rest I would go with a new transmitter.
www.getfpv.com/radiomaster-mt12-surface-radio-controller-w-er3c-i-receiver-elrs-2-4ghz.html
@@edriftinawesome your the best thank you very much!
Are you also going to upgrade the motor an esc or are these just not needed
Going to keep the stock motor and esc in this chassis but more on that in a future video stay tuned!
Did u remove the stoppers because they were getting caught on the new ball cup for the lower arm? Currently having this problem with mine and still have the stock knuckles. Do you think upgrading to the yeah racing knuckles would help?
Can you make like an excel where you show what all that costs thx!
Links in the description 🤘
@@edriftin 👍🏼🤙🏼
Gear mesh was a YIKES, need to snug it down just a little bit more.
Thanks for the feedback. I went ahead and tightened it up more after several comments had suggested. 🤘
Who else came to the comments for the gear mesh
Could use a couple more gear mesh comments. 😉