Partscaster Build - Telecaster Bridge on a Stratocaster
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ก.ค. 2024
- While I'm far from the first, there are still very, very few guitarists out there who mod their Strats with a Tele bridge, let alone having the audacity to follow through with such a radical idea. This video is a walkthrough of me doing just that, along with making a few custom upgrades in the hardware and electronics, while sharing all the little observations I made along the way in what is essentially my first Partscaster build.
If you'd prefer to skip to certain sections:
0:00 - Opening
00:28 - The What and the Why
06:24 - The search for the right guitar
10:36 - Parts, Mods, and Upgrades
15:14 - Disassembly and Headstock Upgrades
16:09 - Installing the Tele bridge
18:23 - Copper shielding (that eventually got scrapped)
19:00 - Wiring the electronics
23:53 - A few minor details
25:25 - Shimming the nut slot
26:31 - A last minute colour change
27:25 - Nut filing
29:06 - Sound test
35:02 - Review, Observations, and Conclusions
Link to the wiring diagram I followed - d2emr0qhzqfj88.cloudfront.net...
Background audio track in this video done by me, using the same guitar seen in this video.
Comment/Like/Share/Subscribe. Thanks for watching! - เพลง
That's right. I didn't expect it to take this long. I'm waiting for the equipment to apply the same thing to my strat. I saw your video while we were here. Thank you again. I wish you success in your other videos.... türkiye. ahmet .
Would love to see yours once it's done!
Now that's the way to build a partscaster! So many partscasters are indistinguishable from a stock guitar. I love the red on black cold scheme!
That's *color* not cold! Lol
Thanks very much for watching!
Superb video. Entertaining and educational at the same time.
If I managed to do both, that's a win for me lol. Glad you enjoyed it, thanks so much for watching!
What a labor of love sir. You’re right, it still sounds like a strat.
With a Tele sound in the bridge lol. Thanks very much for watching!
Great video! Been considering this for one of my Strats and this video is awesome showing the process.
Glad it was helpful, thanks for watching!
Strat looks like Jeff Healey🤘🏼 badass 🔥
Did not even realize that he had a guitar like that, total coincidence! And good taste :P
Great mod video! I really enjoyed getting an insight into the full process. Definitely can relate to the "moment of truth" when removing a pickguard from a Squier hahaha. Also cool to see how you went about cutting the pickguard to make it work with the bridge. Keep up the great work!
Greatly appreciated, thanks very much for watching! And you've got some cool mod videos too!
About 10 years ago I bought a Stratocaster squire beater at a pawn shop for $25. At that time I refinished the body and put in all new fender hardware. I used Seymour Duncan SSL-1 50’s pickups.
In the last few weeks I pulled out the tremolo bridge and filled in the the cavity with a wood block and left it low on the front and filled in with JB weld and sanded flat and totally refinished body. I am going to install a top loading Hardtail bridge . I have a fender Mid range boost kit and TBX tone control that I am going to install. I am using the tremolo spring cavity to hide the 9 volt battery which will be rechargeable. Basically I will have a pedal installed in my Stratocaster. This hopefully will be like the Eric Clampton Blackie Stratocaster. Wish me luck.
That sounds amazing, a true labour of love. Would love to see it when it's done!!!
I am in the planning stages of building a similar guitar. Your video was very helpful. Thanks and congratulations on a job well done.
That's awesome, would love to see when it's done! Thanks so much for watching!
Excellent demonstration. I watched the whole video. You were very enlightening. I subscribed your channel. I wish you much success.
Greatly appreciate the kind words and recognition. Thanks so much for subscribing and for watching!!!
This was a very interesting video.
Greatly appreciate you watching, thanks so much!
@@TsunamiRed no problem. Keep making videos, bro
Nice build. Just recommendation, move kill switch to volume knob location and both pots one position down. No more crowded space below bridge.
That's an excellent suggestion indeed. Thanks very much watching!
17:20 you need a rotary tool like a dremel, lol!
but use the coping saw for the corners of the cut
You really need a bird's foot underneath the workpiece to make a clean job.
@@RogerBarraud bird's foot?
@Robert Jene In retrospect, any small fine tooth saw would have worked as I only needed to do straight cuts.
Great job! Looks very good. Sounds very good. Strat is the only guitar I'm comfortable with. I'm the same about the volume knob when sitting, however I hold the guitar a little different when standing & the knob is not a concern. My Strats are at least 15 yrs. old. Squires bodies are slightly thinner than MIM or Am. Strats. Doing any mod makes the guitar uniquely yours.
There's something about the Strat that makes it oh so comfortable to hold and play, eh? And true - even between the three Squier Strats featured in this video, the bodies did vary in width, particularly the 2002 one (with the single humbucker), that one was very thin. Appreciate the kind words, thanks very much for watching!
the idea for the 2 tone knobs for 3 pickups comes from leo fenders idea of how guitars would be used way back in the 50s, originally they had 3 way switches and he was intending for the neck to be a dark option for bass, the bridge to be the bright option for lead playing and the middle being what he called the natural position for rhythm and general playing.
Also I'm not too sure I understand the point in all the effort in modifying to retain both the strat and tele tones to only end up putting single coil sized humbuckers in. Still a pretty interesting project nonetheless
Heard on the 2 tones, great to know. The single coil sized humbuckers are low output and meant to sound close to their single coil counterparts. If they sounded radically different then I'd know my theory would be proven incorrect.
Thanks very much for watching!
such a sweet looking guitar. as an almost flunk-out electronic engineer graduate, soldering was challenging. just like playing a guitar, practice X3. i love the build. more of this series please.
Indeed, I did a lot of soldering practice beforehand with spare parts. Do subscribe for similar videos. Thanks very much for watching!
I loved this project.. You were very sincere. Every guitar i own ive had some wild custom idea with and thats part of the fun for me. I hartail most strats because i palm mute and reckognize where im at by how it feels placing my palm to the bridge. To do the cavity ive tried some crazy ideas... But, glass or lead gives weight and does "despite retarded claims" add tons of sustain to a bolt on neck guitar... So i like it best filling the entire cavity with glass and fiberglass resin. Its good long term and for 100 % fact adds a sweetend sustain and scream because the weight is added fairly center to the entire structure. Ive also added lead to carved out cavities in the headstock.. That significantly added sustain also but to avoid a super heavy guitar this all works best on cheaper lighter wood bodies from guitars like the 100 strats on amazone. Monoprice, etc. Get em used for 50.00 and your not left with much to lose... Ill refinish them with better paint jobs but the concept works well..
F'n awesome video my dude!
Glass, fibreglass resin, lead - those sounds complicated and lead would indeed be heavy! I'll pass on paint jobs, I've seen what's involved and that's another giant can of worms I don't think I want to open, hahaha. Would love to see your project builds. Thanks very much for the kind words and for watching!
@@TsunamiRed you did just fine doing things your way brother.. Just fine!
12:58 I agree, I can't think of a scenario where I would have different tone settings for the pickups.
But the scenario I can think of for some musicians is when you are playing in a band, and you want more high-end for your lead tone.
You use the selector switch to choose the pickup with less tone to be a backing guitar, and then switch it up for the part of the song where you are the lead.
That's a viable solution, but my preference would be a pedal to activate that particular EQ setting for solos, etc. Less fidgety to me.
@@TsunamiRed I'm the same, pedals
I wanna thank you for doing some clean segments of the pickup demo. I've been looking for some clean country examples of the Fast Track T and Can't find ANYTHING. Good job man! I also love the originality of the build. Cool look!
I thought the very same when I initially started researching the Fast Track T as well. Glad I was able to help, thanks very much for the kind words and for watching!
A six-saddle version of the bridge would probably help with the intonation-vs-jangly problem.
I did consider the 6 saddle bridges at one point but realized I'd have to further enlarge the space I cut out for the bridge on the pickguard. That was more work that I didn't feel like doing any more of.
Never had a problem with 3 saddle bridge if you use the right saddles intonation right on
7:40 epoxy lasts forever - but only if you mix it at the correct ratio. I've worked with it for decades. I've never thought about using it to fill a cavity, but that's a great idea.
I also wonder what you could do to keep it from spilling out from the bottom.
@@TsunamiRed well you mask the bottom off with tape, then lay it on something that has paper on it and is flat .
After it dries, you obviously have to do a lot of sanding on the epoxy
You can use epoxy but there are two things to consider. First is that it will make the guitar much heavier than filling in with wood. Second you would have to use a non stick plastic back strongly taped on for the fill. Because of the angles involved more likely you would have bubbles in the end result.
You made the right choice in the video.😉👍✨
You can turn the 3rd knob do a "blend" of the middle pickup. I plan on trying this one day.
Someone suggested that to me as well and I like that idea. I'm just not sure how to do it exactly - I know it involves taking apart the entire pot and doing something with the insides, which seems a bit much.
@@TsunamiRed If/when you get to tinkering with your guitar again, I can recommend a fairly simple mod for achieving the neck/bridge combo along with a blend for the middle pickup in all positions. Wire the neck and bridge to a tele-style 3-position switch. Wire the middle pickup to one of the tone pots (remove cap, output to jack). This allows also for the "all three" setting, with the middle blend pot on full when in the middle position of the 3-way switch. The only thing you'd be giving up from a standard 5-way switch is position 3--"middle only"--but who uses that?
Nice! A few comments and questions:
Did you try regular single-coil Tele pickups? That's where you get real Tele sound. I'm not a huge fan of rail pickups be comparison. They probably sound very similar even in a regular strat without the metal base plate.
Copper tape: The switch connections shouldn't really make contact, but if they do, you can just put non-conductive tape over the copper shielding. Having said that, the copper shielding won't do much when you're using rails, since the rails are already hum-bucking. In fact traditional Gibson and Fender pickups kind of have that backwards: Fender single coils do hum, but Gibson went thru pain and expense to use metallic shields on their humbuckers. BTW, close proximity, including humbucker covers, results in tonal change due to 'eddy currents.' A separate subject.
You can solve spacing and routing for Tele pickups by using a reliable routing template from StewMac (Stewart McDonald). They show the 6 string holes that match up with the hardtail body's string-thru holes.
Filling the trem cavity: Some wood fillers and epoxies _will_ work. Some won't. I would never use the stuff in a tub anywhere close to a guitar, or for large fills. But there are epoxies that don't shrink as much.
And a question for you: I hadn't seen that wooden 'plug' for the trem cavity before. Where did you find that?
Hey hey!
- I didn't try regular single coil Tele pickups for this guitar, but I did in my original DIY kit Tele video. I'm sure there's a distinct tone in them.
- The switch connections made contact because this Bullet Strat is shallower than a standard Strat body. A few others have suggested putting tape over tape like you mention. Never heard of 'eddy currents', will look into it some time, and interesting to hear about the companies having things backwards!
- The idea of further routing the body did occur to me but was never an option - I don't have any appropriate tools, not to mention how much more work it could be (with the chance of permanently messing things up!)
- Epoxy - totally heard, I still wouldn't consider it!
- I found that wooden 'plug' from extensive Google searching and eventually found a seller on Reverb, who told me it wouldn't fit a Squier body
Greatly appreciate the pointers, and thanks so much for watching!
Hind sight is 20/20, but you could have just put a layer of Kapton tape on top of the copper tape to insulate it from the 5-way switch and still have a shielded cavity. Good project though.
Indeed, but I was going by DylanTalksTone's advice of just ripping out all the tape. Greatly appreciate the kind words, thanks very much for watching!
19:08 when you wire it up - plug it into an amp. Turn the volume and tone up all the way. Set the selector to the option you are testing. Tap the pickup poles with a screwdriver, if is working you will hear "tap tap" in the amp. You can also test the volume and tone pots this way.
Oh I did A LOT of this, with a pair of tweezers instead of a screwdriver
Watching this video I have some pointers that should help anyone who reads this. I do want to say I am impressed with your results and from the start I predicted a few issues from the start of the video.
First piece of advice... parts will not match up. Not talking about the Tele bridge, Strat parts will not line up with other Strat parts. So be prepared that you will be doing 2-4 times the amount work you think its going to be. Import guitars, they are not routed to the same depth as US or MIM (Made in Mexico) so using US speced Fender electronics will be asking for trouble. On Amazon, the Kaish and the JD Moon switches are better than OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) parts and they drop right in. For US pots like CTS or Bournes, the pots are much bigger (think the size of a Quarter) than the OEM pots which are more like the size of a Penny. So the pot placement may put these in contact with the sides and if you shield them, will ground them out. Hence what happened in your case. A Kaisch would have saved you from your grounding issue. Also these parts should drop right into the holes that are already there without having to reem them larger like US standard parts would require. Also you can use your red tip.😉👍✨
A word on the volume/tone pots. Different pots have different "throws," how quick or stiff rolling the pot feels. A full sized Bournes has a quick throw which makes volume and tone swells (check it out if this is new to you) but a CTS or a mini Bournes pot has a steady and smoother feel. For this build I would have recommended mini Bournes pots anf the Kaish switch as the least hassle filled wiring. Also if you do cut the wires, add an inch more than you think so you can avoid adding extra length. I have push/pull pots on two guitars with full humbuckers but they are much more work to wire. Also in a shallow import guitar they will most likely bottom out thereby short out. For my guitars with grounding issues I just cut up a donor vinyl sticker and place it in the spot in the cavity that is the issue. This allows me to keep the advantage of shielding the cavity will fixing the grounding issue.
Nuts....nuts. The nut is really the one place I say "fuck it," and get a professional to do. First of all it will be done right as well as the professional will do small touch ups on any bum frets. They want their work to good so they will help out tge rest of tge neck. Unless you really want to go hardcore and get bone blanks and real nut files, just have a professional do the nut and setup once you have the rest of your guitar done. I learned this the hard way, trying to do a "drop in" nut made the professional nut go from $90 to $240 all said and done because of me trying to be clever. That guitar still needs way more work to get it where it should be.
Guitar Fetish and Amazon sell sone good locking tuners for under $50 but you will have to drill new holes for the screw. I am pretty sure the Graphtech Ratio tunners will go on with no mods but they cost way more. I am a Dunlop fan when it comes to straplocks. I also buy a strap for each guitar I have because you will want them at different heights for different designs.
I like your choices in this guitar as I would have never done any of these. It definitely looks great and sounds really good. I have a few Partscaster style guitars that are very different than what you have. Different strokes for different folks. Kudos on your build!
I have an idea for a Strat-Tele hybrid based on my Partscasters I have. I want an HSS configuration for the pickups as I want to do a GFS pickup load out of a Surf 90 (bridge) and two Brighton Rock (middle and neck) like I have on my modded Xavier Strat style guitar. I want to do a short Tele three barrel bridge (minus the area for the pickup) that is scalloped in the back between the screws for a Bigsby. So like you I need a hardtail Strat body but I want to put on a Tele neck. This will require rounding off a Tele neck (square shape) because the Strat neck pocket it rounded at the back. I think a Tele headstock matches the curves on a Strat body better than Strat headstocks do. Probably will go with CTS pots, a Grigsby switch and an Orange Drop capacitor too. This will probably be nect year as modding a MIM tele for a Bigsby is this years goal for a new guitar. I also have some upgrades to do on another Partscaster (needs a new neck pocket) and a new pickup overhaul on my Charvel guitar (EMG DMF set).
Wow, where to start.
The push-pull pots I used do run pretty deep, so yeah, like you said with the shallow depth of the cavity it made for a tight fit. I could have used an import 5-way switch that would have fit more nicely and also have a thinner pole (for the red tip), but I've heard they're much cheaper in quality, being a circuit board. Hence why I stuck with the official Fender switch.
Never really gave too much thought into the types of pots other than resistance and linear/logarithmic but I'll look into the different types - I simply worked off of whatever I could get from Amazon. The cavities were very shallow for this guitar, I had to eliminate a ton of excess wires and really push down on the lugs of the 5-way switch to get everything to fit. I would have felt better having even just an inch of excess but it wasn't feasible in this case.
For the nut, the pros definitely would know what they're doing compared to me trying to fidget my way through this, they've probably developed the right 'feel' for what goes into a perfectly cut nut over time. I had good luck with cutting the previous nut on my Tele, and thought I could do the same with this one. I have no idea where to start with a nut blank, although one commenter has some pointers on how to measure for it. That's a good point you make as well regarding fretwork - this Strat is a cheaper one, so I'm actually dealing with a lot of fret sprout right now (Canadian winter contributing to the issue lol), and I'm waiting on some tools to fix it eventually.
For tuners, I definitely wasn't expecting rock solid performance from Amazon ones, I just wanted the convenience of locking tuners to make stringing them up easier. On my future ultimate build, I would spend the extra money to get high quality tuners, likely Hipshots. I've got Dunlop strap locks on order, I'm expecting them to be better than what I have now.
That's quite a Partscaster build you have in mind! Unique choice of pickups too. Shaving the neck pocket would be quite an endeavour, no? That sounds even more labourious and precarious than what I did with my pickguard. I've always been curious about what's needed to get a Bigsby on a Tele. If you ever do any videos or pics, I'd love to see them!
All in all, greatly appreciate you sharing your knowledge and wisdom, I hope others do also read what you've written here. Thanks so much for the kind words and watching this video!
@@TsunamiRed
Thanks for the response! You did everything correct with what one SHOULD do if they really want to elevate an inexpensive import. That said, using US speced electronics are really hit or miss. If you have a MIM guitar or a Warmouth body, going for an import switch can be seen as cheapening out. The Kaisch and JD Moon switches feel pretty good, no complaints. The no name locking tuners are pretty close to the stock locking tuners on my Charvel. They are about 85% the same functionality as Sperzels I had on another guitar.
@@TsunamiRed
I did want to offer two things for your awesome Strat/Tele hybrid. You may find it may be easier to switch the layout of your electronics to where it goes killswitch/volume/tone for the holes. The good news on this is that it costs you nothing. You may want to consider that when you get tired of the volume issue or change strings.
The second suggestion would be to replace the bridge again. If you want to keep the three barrel design you may want to look at the Gotoh BS-TC 1S. This should give you a cutaway on the ashtray bridge that would help too. That lip you are hitting on The Wilkenson is not really there on the Gotoh.
I have right now about 23 guitars on hand, of which 5 are Telecasters, Squier Telecasters or Tele clones. I have the same Wilkenson bridge on my main Telecaster in my pic here. It's a really good bridge. I have the Gotoh traditional style with the cutaway and a scalloped back (look up Gotoh Telecaster Bigsby) for my Squier Partscaster eith a GFS X Trem (Bigsby-esque... about 85% there to the real deal) and I actually prefer the Gotoh. I play dirty, so a Garage Rock/Punk guitar tone so EXACT intonation ia a bit wasted on me. Think The Sonics, the Clash, Social Distortion, and Stiff Little Fingers ans that's my bread and butter... along with Country beacuse I am self taught and mainly uses a Mel Bay book of "cowboy chords."
At the end of the day, precise intonation on straight frets is a mathmatical fool's errand. I am not saying this to be right or mean, I am mentioning this so you can get to a point where it really does not bother you. I have traditional three barrel compensated barrels on both the Wilkenson and the Gotoh while the other three have more modern individual saddles. For me its a feel thing, that just comes with time and playing. I also like the throwback look on the original bridges and because I use effects like reverb, slap back echo, and overdrive, I sound very much the same across all my Teles.
You are a cool guy and I really like your video. I have been playing for about 29 years nonstop, I have owned well over 60 guitars and I am very familiar with modding projects. Feel free to pick my brain, you have a lot of potential with those other guitars. I also have been pushing my luthier skills on my own time, since financially going to Roberto-Venn is not on the horizon yet. I have loads of Partscasters and modded import guitars I call my "Primo Cheapos" and I would be happy to share any knowledge I have.
I would say three things about these types of guitars.. First, while you can get a import guitar to play and sound way better than stock, they cannot really play on par with their American big brothers. Second, modded guitars and Partscaster will never be worth the amount of the parts. Build them like what you and I do more as a "proof of concept" before modding say and American or Mexican guitar. If you do want to sell them, you will get more money parting them out. Last, look at these as an investment in happiness. Do it because you love to and because it is fun. I see that in you and that's how I feel.
One last bit of advice, the quality of a part is not necessarily reflected in the price. Import parts and pickups CAN be good if they are speced right. CTS and Bournes are actaully Asian made at this point but you still see them in Fender, Gibson and Boutique builds. Some of my favorite pickups are Asian made, the GFS Surf 90 for example, as well as Duncan Designed humbuckers. Some parts are just visual knockoffs that are poorly spec-ed and unfortunately there are a lot of tgem. The locking tuners I buy for about $45 on Amazon are great! They fall right in for most import guitars. Squiers are a bit squirrelly when it come to drop in tuners. I know Darrel Braun used Grapteck Ratio tuners as a drop in on a Squier build he did but thatvdoes not mean all Squires can do that. I just put my $45 tuners on both of my Squier Telecasters, filled in old holes with toothpicks and made new holes with screws. Then again Partscasters are supposed to look a bit gnarly and battered.😎👍✨
I did consider switching the placement of the knobs/switch in the order you list, with the killswitch closest to the bridge. It might involve 'extending' a few wires but that's something I would consider if I ever muster the patience to tinker with the insides again lol.
Great recommendation with the lipless bridge, though I think I'll opt for a 6 saddle type on future builds. Been eyeing Hipshot as well for my future ultimate build, or perhaps even the new Vega Trem Tele version. Totally hear you on the 'precise intonation' thing - that's something that makes me want to try a True Temperament fretboard someday.....if I ever have the extra funds.
'Proof of concept' - that's an accurate way of describing how I've approached these builds. All of this is meant to be practice and experimentation before I take the plunge in building my ultimate Partscaster - the body and neck will likely be from Warmoth. And for sure, it's highly unlikely I'll ever part with these guitars now, I know the resale value will never be anywhere near what I put in, let alone the time spent on them.
And I hear ya on price/quality - I'm happy with locking tuners I've tried on Amazon as well, and these days I find that stock pickups, even on cheap Squiers and other no-name guitars, aren't all that bad.
Appreciate all the pointers, I'll take you up on advice/pointers if I ever find myself in a rut again. Thanks very much again!
@@TsunamiRed
Awesome! I have seen inexpensive Squier bridges like on my Squier Standard Telecaster go for $20 on Reverb. It's alright... a cheap modern bridge, not US quality but not bad. It has the six individual saddles you are looking for. I did want to mention that Seymour Duncan has a standard Strat bridge pickup called a Twang banger. I have that in a Partscaster (Twang banger- Reverse wind Pro Alnico ll- Five Two Strat) and it has the Telecaster sound as they put a brass plate under the pickup which is part of the Tele magic.
I will say modern Tele bridges require string thru body placement, that would be the Vega Trem and the Squire bridge I mentioned earlier. I personally prefer Bigsbys because I am after that subtle "blue note" waiver that Strat style trems seem to blow past. Also the Jazzmaster/Jaguar Wide Swing Tremelos do that really well but that is definitely invasive.
These thin import bodies are too shallow for them. Not sure what issues might occur with a Vega Trem on a thinner import body. Maybe nothing. I view my import guitars more as a modern version of the old school 1960s and 1970s import knockoffs like a Teisco. More fun and offbeat that may or may not be practical. Definitely solid "second guitars" that offer flavors that are different than my main guitars.
I appreciate all of your responses and look forward to your future builds. 😉👍✨
Hello, can you please share the NEC model Biridge resistors? I like the sound.
Not sure what you're referring to exactly? Everything's detailed in the video though.
been fancing doing similar myself for a while now, thank you for sharing your experience. how much did it cost in the end?
A lot more than it should have, let's just put it that way, hahahaha. But as a reference point, the pickups alone cost me over CAD300.00. Thanks very much for watching!
Nice experiment, there. Turns out beautiful!
In my opinion, since you've changed pickups, the sound test can't properly show the difference between bridges.
Cheers!
That is a very fair point, there's no way I could do a perfectly accurate test changing just one variable in certain cases (like the bridges). Hence the closest I could do was the bridge pickup between the Tele and Strat. Appreciate the kind words, thanks very much for watching!
@@TsunamiRed No, thank you for the effort.
25:23 I was thinking that the nut might not be the right height earlier in the video... Because I saw in another video somewhere that you need to measure the old one's height from the fretboard first.
You need to measure both E-Strings slot depth and nut height, by the way.
At least that's what I remember.
That's a handy tip to keep in mind!
also GOLD looks really good on black... oh boy.. find an older ultra or the strat is it that had the 24kt gold switch tip? has a set screw so size isn't really an issue... so nice .. its a very cool guitar either way tho...
Tim Henson/Mateus Asato much? :P
And thanks very much for watching!
I'd like to try this but keep the Tremolo bridge
Then you'd need a whammy Tele bridge like the VegaTrem VT or Super Vee Maverick system.
because of not having the "cutaways" you call - the body contours, I modified the body on the Tele kit I'm building - by adding body contours
Yes, that's the correct term - contours. Or I could have said rounded edges around the body.
'Burls Art' makes guitars entirely out of epoxy resin( with all kinds of things in it). probably would work great filling just the trem cavity. the Squier neck looks really nicely figured. Using the black bridge plate might have been another grounding problem, as I've found I had to sand off the black paint in some inconspicuous areas so the strings are grounded.( underneath the plate and inside a screw hole above so bare metal touches, so maybe you skipped that issue. black bridge looked sick tho.
I highly doubt the black bridge I have was painted with shielding paint lol, but yeah like you say, potentially an issue missed. Thanks very much for watching!
Some of the demo segments were excessively overdriven somewhere, so the sound was too muddy to assess well.
I do like the combined bridge+neck. The split version might have sounded a bit clearer and perhaps preferable to me.
You could probably compensate the gain around +6dB somewhere downstream to make up for the low output.
Not sure whether the split version sounds 'spakier' or not, hard to say without the levels being comparable.
Overall, I like the look and sound of the guitar a lot. You should be very proud of yourself for pushing through the frustration.
Keep at it!
🙂
The 'after' sound samples definitely didn't showcase the best sounding tones I could have achieved with the guitar and the VST settings, but I purposely kept the same settings to more accurately show the difference between the modded guitar vs. the stock guitar, the pickups being the biggest factor. No matter what amp settings I use for the split coils, it just sounded thin regardless. Maybe higher output humbuckers might be a better bet.
Appreciate the kind words, thanks so much for watching!
the best way for a tele bridge strat is to use a rear route hard tail body... no pick guard, no tremolo toure, hard tail, rear routed..
Very true, but I had no means of being able to determine where to drill those holes on this Bullet body, hence I went with the alternate method I ended up doing.
🙇♂️💓🍀🎶 🤘😃
for some reason, this video is showing that only 360p quality is available.
The video had just finished posting and the HD/4K versions hadn't fully uploaded yet. Ya early bird you! :P
@@TsunamiRed oh ok
i dont hear enough change to justify the work
I did want to retain a (somewhat) Strat sound. If it sounded radically different then my hypotheses would be proven incorrect
you didn't have to rip the tap out, all you really had to do was lay black cloth tape in the control cavity over the copper where anything may have been grounding out. yup, sorry.... or route it out deeper?
Routing it deeper would have been risky, Bullet bodies are shallower than standard sized ones. DylanTalksTone usually recommends ripping all the tape out in the body, so that's why I did it.
That double cut Tele in the beginning ain't no Nashville Tele... It's an abomination! A Nashville Tele is just a Tele with a Strat pickup in the middle.
I said it was a Nashville Strat :P
ABOMINATION!
lol
BAŞINDAN BİŞEY GÖRÜLMÜYOR VİDYOYU HIZLI ÇEKİM yapmasaydınız daha verimli olurdu
The video was not recorded in fast motion, it was sped up while editing. If I had left all the footage played back in regular time, this video could have easily been 5+ hours, and nobody wants that, hahaha.
That said, thanks very much for watching! Teşekkürler!