best video on this so far. I've got a new engine and oil pump. So the routine remove old sensor and drop it into oil pump at top dead center wouldn't work for me. I'll have to manually turn the pump into position when I prime the pump and then play with this falls in. I was having trouble finding the gasket as well so the part # is much appreciated. Thank you.
K Smith sorry for the delayed response. I'm glad to hear this worked out for you! If you have any 4.0 questions i'm also on IG which is sometimes faster to track me down, same user name Fury719. Cheers!
I was thinking about making a match mark for the cam sensor to the block when I swap out the valvetrain and clean the oil galleys on my 4.0 to line it up precisely how it came apart. last thing I want to have is a trip to a dealership to synchronize the sensor while breaking in a new cam n lifters
If you rotate cylinder no 1 to TDC "top dead center" and reference the position of the cam position sensor placement you shouldn't an issue. The electrical connector should always point straight back towards the firewall.
? Once this is installed into place. Should it be loose moving by hand ? I bought a 2000 grand Cherokee Laredo 4.0 auto. Start rough idle stalls out . Now no crank nothing . Noticed I can move / turn easily this part seems loose but yet it’s bolted down . Doesn’t seem right to me , any info would be appreciated thanks
The hold down bolt should be snug, once you're locked into position the main drive unit should not be able to move. I might make a video on how to make this adjustment if the engine has turned over with the unit out etc...
You don't really have to i'd suggest noting the existing position of the sensor with the top of the sensor removed. Worst case if you had to put the engine on top dead center its not that hard just time consuming.
No where else did I find that you can turn that oil pump down in the bottom with a screwdriver. That saved my hide! Thanks so much!
Outstanding glad it worked out for you!
best video on this so far. I've got a new engine and oil pump. So the routine remove old sensor and drop it into oil pump at top dead center wouldn't work for me. I'll have to manually turn the pump into position when I prime the pump and then play with this falls in. I was having trouble finding the gasket as well so the part # is much appreciated. Thank you.
K Smith sorry for the delayed response. I'm glad to hear this worked out for you! If you have any 4.0 questions i'm also on IG which is sometimes faster to track me down, same user name Fury719. Cheers!
I was thinking about making a match mark for the cam sensor to the block when I swap out the valvetrain and clean the oil galleys on my 4.0 to line it up precisely how it came apart. last thing I want to have is a trip to a dealership to synchronize the sensor while breaking in a new cam n lifters
If you rotate cylinder no 1 to TDC "top dead center" and reference the position of the cam position sensor placement you shouldn't an issue. The electrical connector should always point straight back towards the firewall.
? Once this is installed into place. Should it be loose moving by hand ? I bought a 2000 grand Cherokee Laredo 4.0 auto. Start rough idle stalls out . Now no crank nothing . Noticed I can move / turn easily this part seems loose but yet it’s bolted down . Doesn’t seem right to me , any info would be appreciated thanks
The hold down bolt should be snug, once you're locked into position the main drive unit should not be able to move. I might make a video on how to make this adjustment if the engine has turned over with the unit out etc...
Did you have to time it before dropping da new cam sensor
You don't really have to i'd suggest noting the existing position of the sensor with the top of the sensor removed. Worst case if you had to put the engine on top dead center its not that hard just time consuming.