I weld square tube every day for work and I did not know about the bevle. No one wants to help the new guy but because of their ignorance and this channel I almost weld better then the "best weldes at my job"... thanks so much again.
Most welders are decent people bud and there are alot of forums etc that you can join for help.. But please dont say no one wants to help a new welder because lots of welders will jump at the chance to teach.
Thanks man! No matter how simple you may think something is, there's always something new to learn or some little tip to pick up. Also, fireball tools are amazing.
This is quite helpful... as a hobbyist I work with small tubing, small square rods... and grinding welds back down to clean frequently leads to laying down some more metal to bring up the low spots. I will utilize these techniques a bit more now.
After I've knocked the corner off on the outside corner i like to run a thin disc down it to make sure i get good pen when going vertical down. Filing the radiused edges after sanding (along the radius not round it) matches the ground bit of radius to non ground bit perfectly too. Good vid cheers.
That’s one area I think I have a better way than he did on here. If you grind the corner point back about 3mm (1/8 inch) on this gauge material 90 degrees to the length of your pieces before you fit them together, then you get a lovely little 90 degree outside corner to fill. He did a good job though.
Thats how to do it! Made this for many years the same way, never had any problems with cracks. Great video with very good content! Keep up the great quality. Best regards from germany🤙
I kinda whip with my grinder down to almost base material and then take one light and slow final pass to smooth it all out. Looks like scotch brite but I'm using 80 grit. Also, if you're a new to welding or in school or thinking about a career in welding, take some time to practice metal finish. The amount of time I spend laying beads and then making them disappear is staggering. Thanks for the content, weld team.
You could have showcased pferds polifan curve discs. Since you were "just using a grinder".. The 60 grit would have done a nice job on the inside corner. Been doing this for years, and just learnt not to go back and forth. Thanks man. This is why i always watch all your videos, no matter how simple it may be. Glad i didn't skip this one.. 😁
Nice !!! i like that and that is what I did when I built the frames for the new gas bottle storage cage. but the outside corner I did not sand flat before welding . I did not know at the time because I am an electrician and welding is just a hobby .
Great vid! Can you show how to do that on thin wall square tubing, 16 guage? I can burn through hell of easy! I saw Man Cub say to use 30 thousands wire instead of 35.
You'd probably do even better using .025" wire. And don't use flux core if you have a choice, flux core penetrates more than solid wire the same size. It's like running 6011 vs 6013. Also, if you get to really thin stuff (18-22 gauge and below) a lot of guys like switching to 98/2 argon/Co2 mix instead of 75/25 because it helps with burn through.
A root gap does the trick with thinner walled tubing. Experiment with what works for you. I recommend 0" up to 3/32", even though GMAW (MIG) can gap much more than that. I often use 1/16" root gap with either 0.030 or 0.35 wire with good results and accurate dimensions.
Making miters isn’t just a matter of getting the 45s right. You also have to get the 90 degrees correct as well. I know some guys are scratching their heads over that. But, there are a lot of saws with bad vises. When you cut a basic 90 degree cut, it doesn’t matter as long as the blade is at an accurate 90 degrees to the base. But, if the fence of the vise isn’t strong enough to resist angling backwards when tightened up, as more than a few saws have problems with, when you change the cutting angle, the top to bottom cut, the vertical cut, won’t be at 90 degrees. So you’ll have your 45, if you set it carefully, but when you put the pieces together, one side, either the top or bottom, won’t touch. This seems mostly to be a problem with many less expensive friction and carbide cut off saws. If they come with pressed steel vises, as all of the less expensive models do, they will have that problem.
Love your channel, and learn from it everytime I watch. I was wondering if yall had any advice on a Red-D-Arc Lincoln LN25-Pro mig welder? The proper set up and functions of it, Ive downloaded the manual but its an older machine and there isnt a lot of explanation. I know its meant to run off a bigger welder, which i have a Lincoln Ranger 350G, Is there any advice you could show me or help me with in connecting the two machines... I would really appreciate the help. keep the videos coming!
I need a welding beiginers class I purchased a all in one unit it will stick mig, tig and Im not sure how to stick yet. Im restoreing a 67c10 pu and would it be better for me to learn one type b.v verses trying to figure all just mainly doing a little patch work but honestly not much the rear axle has been flipped A framed but thats done. As to what i ahould try to learn first would be what
Personally I'd work on learning MIG first, it's cleaner and easier than stick. I learned on stick (all there was for home shop) and haven't used it for ages, mostly MIG for structural and TIG for the finer things (I do love TIG but it's probably the hardest to learn).
Nice to watch a true professional at work, best I've seen yet. Really enjoyed the video📹, all the best. Slán go fóill amigo. Liam kilkee clare ireland 🍀. 🚙📹🇮🇪
I swear I saw an ad with Red Beard for a full video course somewhere, but I cannot find it our any associated website. Please let me know if I'm crazy or if this actually exists lol
Ive done exactly what he has done in the video during my internship, with 2mm thick square. Its basically the same. But I do a lot less preperation to the material, because you will just burn straight trough. One thing that was shown in the vid that we do are long sweeping strokes that follow the bend. That way you can make it extremely flat
generally the way I do it. is I take a stone disk if I am removing a lot of weld I start around 20 degree angle an work my way down to 5 degrees until there just a little weld left. an then I will take a fiber resin disk an flatten it rest of the way keeping at a 5 degree angle. generally pulling is much better for person who has to sand it end it come out a lot easier if you do not go back an forth. I do agree overall with this process on how to do it :D.
As someone who does this everyday I totally agree flap wheels are expensive you would need 2 a day doing it this way I use the cubitron hard wheel and fibre discs there awsome much flatter finish aswell flap wheel is a finishing tool in my opinion
Don’t bevel the front and back. You’ll burn through too easily. Turn your power down. You may need to do the face welds in stages cos it loves to burn through. I often start at the inside and go part way, then come from outside towards the inside before going back the the first weld and completing it. If your power is too high you end up doing repeated spot welds along it as if you’re welding up a car.
@@foxwood67 Yes stitch weld it but I tend to go from each end to the centre if it’s trying to burn through. Less waiting for it to cool time. Yes you can blend it but on that gauge be careful not to thin out the main material and obviously you can’t round the corners much.
@@nelsonreyes8808 Orbital sanding is used to take off the striations left over from using any wheeled sanding, so that lines and marks from grinding isn't visible after the piece is painted.
got a serious question for anyone who can help me..im welding square tubing on a double decker 2 story car hauler diagonally in between the original existing square tubing bays going vertically up and down, to help stiffen the trailer. problem is the tubing is up againts the backside of the inner wall of the trailer causing me to not have access to the back side of the tubing. what is the best way to weld the tubing so far i have only been tacking the tube in place. the trailer manufacturer only welded the square tubing in the fillet welds and none on the faces of the tubing im guessing because the outer panels stick to the outer face of the tubing with double sided tape (smh) they probly dide want to spend the time beveling and gringing the welds smooth, hence the trailer frame has numerous cracks and endles joints with no welds...help ...anyone???
@ Dan L @Gary King Sorry gents for not explaining more clearly. This type of square or rectangular tubing is formed starting from a strip of sheetmetal, folded to the desired shape and welded shut lengthwise on one of the flanks and ground or rather milled smooth, all in one continuous proces. This seem however remains visible under even a couple of layers of coating. Looks better to my taste to see this line continue through corners if it cannot be helped that it is on the 'showing' side of the work. Added avantage: especially cheaper production tubes are evidently not 100% square. So using this method you line up a corner of 89'30" with the same rather than with it's counterpart 90'30" which means that things get flush anyway. I hope you can follow this dutchman's explanation😶?
@@Calligraphybooster Ha! Thanks. As soon as I've read "This type of square or rectangular tubing is formed" I immediately knew what you meant. I do the same. But that last part about the 89'30" I didn't think about. Good tip!
He also talks about painting later. No need to match seams when you plan to paint. And really, it's a detail you don't really need to worry about most of the time anyway. It's purely aesthetic.
Nice job. One way grinding is a good idea. Bevel the inside too, then weld it to a smooth transition. It'll look much nicer. Bevelling only three sides doesn't make sense.
Don't waste your time doing this, on thick wall tubing like in the video, just crank your welder out and go full ahead, it will penetrate same amount as with bevel
@@sanho1988 Yeah i normally weld it hot enough to actually fuse the metal completely so when i do grind out the top reinforment its as good as box section thats just been bought. I do it on spray mig so i have to be very good on my travel speed but normally i can do it without deforming the metal from too much heat or burn through.. Just something that takes practice.
alex is correct mate.. get a proper machine if you plan on welding some decent metal sections as at the end of the day you want to make sure things are welded properly if the thing you welding interacts with people in some form.. Dont work on something that can potentially injure someone in the future
@@Gecko88 I’m with you Bones. On that thickness wall I would grind a good bevel. Much better weld and control. My big welder is a 450amp Miller that could just power into that but my guess is these guys think they are but wouldn’t even get half depth penetration on 10mm wall.
@@Gecko88 Ya, backyard welders like alex think that you can just muscle through certain welds. They forget that higher heat means more distortion, a larger HAZ (heat-affected zone), more spatter, less control, a wider bead with risk of overlapping a weld due to lack of initial root penetration, and risk of damaging equipment. His way is not the best way; keep beveling the heck out of those walls!!
I weld square tube every day for work and I did not know about the bevle. No one wants to help the new guy but because of their ignorance and this channel I almost weld better then the "best weldes at my job"... thanks so much again.
Most welders are decent people bud and there are alot of forums etc that you can join for help.. But please dont say no one wants to help a new welder because lots of welders will jump at the chance to teach.
Keep up the good work man.
@@Migman2020 I got the impression that he was talking about the welders at his job not wanting to help the new guy.
Thanks man! No matter how simple you may think something is, there's always something new to learn or some little tip to pick up. Also, fireball tools are amazing.
I saw this video twice. Excellent welds. Thanks a buch.👍👍
Pferd makes a rounded edge flap disc for cleaning up inside corners.. Love those things.
Can you give a link please?
@@danl.4743 they're called polifan curve flap disks
@@monkipooman I see them now. Thanks.
@@monkipooman Dang fine product too
@@danl.4743 hm
This is quite helpful... as a hobbyist I work with small tubing, small square rods... and grinding welds back down to clean frequently leads to laying down some more metal to bring up the low spots. I will utilize these techniques a bit more now.
Thanks for the mig welding tips. Good to know. Keep it coming I really appreciate it!
After I've knocked the corner off on the outside corner i like to run a thin disc down it to make sure i get good pen when going vertical down. Filing the radiused edges after sanding (along the radius not round it) matches the ground bit of radius to non ground bit perfectly too. Good vid cheers.
That’s one area I think I have a better way than he did on here. If you grind the corner point back about 3mm (1/8 inch) on this gauge material 90 degrees to the length of your pieces before you fit them together, then you get a lovely little 90 degree outside corner to fill. He did a good job though.
You did a great job with this video. Very well put together.
Dident relise iv been doing it wrong. It all makes sense now
Thats how to do it! Made this for many years the same way, never had any problems with cracks. Great video with very good content! Keep up the great quality. Best regards from germany🤙
Thanks! And good timing as I'm about to make a smoker. I use a lot of square tube and the ends are always a pain. Should turn out better now.
I kinda whip with my grinder down to almost base material and then take one light and slow final pass to smooth it all out. Looks like scotch brite but I'm using 80 grit. Also, if you're a new to welding or in school or thinking about a career in welding, take some time to practice metal finish. The amount of time I spend laying beads and then making them disappear is staggering. Thanks for the content, weld team.
Thanks. Great video!
Very clear instructions. That Jason makes some nice tools!
I needed this in my life.
Another great video ,detailed music is great 👍
You could have showcased pferds polifan curve discs. Since you were "just using a grinder".. The 60 grit would have done a nice job on the inside corner.
Been doing this for years, and just learnt not to go back and forth. Thanks man. This is why i always watch all your videos, no matter how simple it may be. Glad i didn't skip this one.. 😁
We saved the Pferd for another video. Glad we could help out.
I've been going back and forth while grinding. I will have to try the drag back method. I'm a newby and need all the help I can get.
Nice work man, nothing like true professional quality.
thank you and love your podcast my man
Thanks for watching the video and listening to the show 🤘🔥
Very good insight ....
Will have to incorporate this now .....
Thanks
the Vinigar trick for removing mill scale that you shared not long ago works like a charm, my go to now instead of the dust all over the shop.
I’ve been using it the last couple weeks myself. Thanks for watching man.
Nice !!! i like that and that is what I did when I built the frames for the new gas bottle storage cage. but the outside corner I did not sand flat before welding . I did not know at the time because I am an electrician and welding is just a hobby .
Very nice and thank you. Good tutorial.
Great vid! Can you show how to do that on thin wall square tubing, 16 guage? I can burn through hell of easy! I saw Man Cub say to use 30 thousands wire instead of 35.
You'd probably do even better using .025" wire. And don't use flux core if you have a choice, flux core penetrates more than solid wire the same size. It's like running 6011 vs 6013.
Also, if you get to really thin stuff (18-22 gauge and below) a lot of guys like switching to 98/2 argon/Co2 mix instead of 75/25 because it helps with burn through.
I go hot and fast vertical down on thin gauge. If its a longer pass try adding a few tacks to help take the heat.
Great tips thanks 🙏
Darn Beautiful job Red
This was a great lesson and well timed. I’m about to fabricate a roof rack for my 89 Suburban and want square tube and square corners.
And I'm about to pick up a k5 Blazer! Ironic that someone else would be doing the same, but longer basic vehicle!
Very nice great video its helped me alot
can you some dual shield from a suit case welder some time?
Can you do this with 2mm square tubing. Would you do a wash down with thinner tubing?
A root gap does the trick with thinner walled tubing. Experiment with what works for you. I recommend 0" up to 3/32", even though GMAW (MIG) can gap much more than that. I often use 1/16" root gap with either 0.030 or 0.35 wire with good results and accurate dimensions.
Making miters isn’t just a matter of getting the 45s right. You also have to get the 90 degrees correct as well. I know some guys are scratching their heads over that. But, there are a lot of saws with bad vises. When you cut a basic 90 degree cut, it doesn’t matter as long as the blade is at an accurate 90 degrees to the base. But, if the fence of the vise isn’t strong enough to resist angling backwards when tightened up, as more than a few saws have problems with, when you change the cutting angle, the top to bottom cut, the vertical cut, won’t be at 90 degrees. So you’ll have your 45, if you set it carefully, but when you put the pieces together, one side, either the top or bottom, won’t touch.
This seems mostly to be a problem with many less expensive friction and carbide cut off saws. If they come with pressed steel vises, as all of the less expensive models do, they will have that problem.
Fine and dandy with thick wall tube. What about thin wall like 1" square tube?
beautiful!
Love your channel, and learn from it everytime I watch. I was wondering if yall had any advice on a Red-D-Arc Lincoln LN25-Pro mig welder? The proper set up and functions of it, Ive downloaded the manual but its an older machine and there isnt a lot of explanation. I know its meant to run off a bigger welder, which i have a Lincoln Ranger 350G, Is there any advice you could show me or help me with in connecting the two machines... I would really appreciate the help. keep the videos coming!
I need a welding beiginers class I purchased a all in one unit it will stick mig, tig and Im not sure how to stick yet. Im restoreing a 67c10 pu and would it be better for me to learn one type b.v verses trying to figure all just mainly doing a little patch work but honestly not much the rear axle has been flipped A framed but thats done. As to what i ahould try to learn first would be what
Personally I'd work on learning MIG first, it's cleaner and easier than stick. I learned on stick (all there was for home shop) and haven't used it for ages, mostly MIG for structural and TIG for the finer things (I do love TIG but it's probably the hardest to learn).
Very good!
Nice to watch a true professional at work, best I've seen yet. Really enjoyed the video📹, all the best. Slán go fóill amigo. Liam kilkee clare ireland 🍀. 🚙📹🇮🇪
I swear I saw an ad with Red Beard for a full video course somewhere, but I cannot find it our any associated website. Please let me know if I'm crazy or if this actually exists lol
Nice job
You've done this before. L.O.L. Good Job.
Good day mate, how would you do this when its thin walled tubing? cheers mate, love the videos
I’d switch over to tig welding and maybe do a very small gap.
Ive done exactly what he has done in the video during my internship, with 2mm thick square. Its basically the same. But I do a lot less preperation to the material, because you will just burn straight trough.
One thing that was shown in the vid that we do are long sweeping strokes that follow the bend. That way you can make it extremely flat
Are you filling in a circular motion?
generally the way I do it. is I take a stone disk if I am removing a lot of weld I start around 20 degree angle an work my way down to 5 degrees until there just a little weld left. an then I will take a fiber resin disk an flatten it rest of the way keeping at a 5 degree angle. generally pulling is much better for person who has to sand it end it come out a lot easier if you do not go back an forth.
I do agree overall with this process on how to do it :D.
As someone who does this everyday I totally agree flap wheels are expensive you would need 2 a day doing it this way I use the cubitron hard wheel and fibre discs there awsome much flatter finish aswell flap wheel is a finishing tool in my opinion
Looks great.
Same technique for welding 16g ??? Tube
Don’t bevel the front and back. You’ll burn through too easily. Turn your power down. You may need to do the face welds in stages cos it loves to burn through. I often start at the inside and go part way, then come from outside towards the inside before going back the the first weld and completing it. If your power is too high you end up doing repeated spot welds along it as if you’re welding up a car.
@@grumpyone5963 like stitch weld it ? Can you still blend it smooth or is it better to leave the bead
@@foxwood67 Yes stitch weld it but I tend to go from each end to the centre if it’s trying to burn through. Less waiting for it to cool time. Yes you can blend it but on that gauge be careful not to thin out the main material and obviously you can’t round the corners much.
@@grumpyone5963 👍🙂
🏆🏆🏆👍🙏
Thank you for sharing
Red beard ROCKS !!!
I kinda wanna see yall weld what I do at work which is 16 gauge round tubing to 16 gauge plate at 715 ipm and 23.5 volts quarter to one inch welds
wouldn't you want to symmetrically spot-weld it into place before filling all the welding in on a single side?
In that case it wasn't needed because he had it clamped good
Yeah I figured maybe that we the case, he has that big jig thing
What is a D A wheel?
@@nelsonreyes8808
Dual action. Pattern less. Orbital.
@@nelsonreyes8808 Orbital sanding is used to take off the striations left over from using any wheeled sanding, so that lines and marks from grinding isn't visible after the piece is painted.
Proper and quick. Some of the comments and replies in here are why old welders are grouchy.....
Sorry for the stupid question, but what is "DA"?
good vid
How much to adjust electrical
got a serious question for anyone who can help me..im welding square tubing on a double decker 2 story car hauler diagonally in between the original existing square tubing bays going vertically up and down, to help stiffen the trailer. problem is the tubing is up againts the backside of the inner wall of the trailer causing me to not have access to the back side of the tubing. what is the best way to weld the tubing so far i have only been tacking the tube in place. the trailer manufacturer only welded the square tubing in the fillet welds and none on the faces of the tubing im guessing because the outer panels stick to the outer face of the tubing with double sided tape (smh) they probly dide want to spend the time beveling and gringing the welds smooth, hence the trailer frame has numerous cracks and endles joints with no welds...help ...anyone???
why don't you grind the corner off when making your bevel on the two sides?
🔥🔥🔥👌🏽 Beautiful red beard
good technique. no tacks. wrong sequence. 45s. outside first even clamped.
Thick wall tube. I GTAW 16 gauge. Just get the mill scale off. 75 amps and run with it.
Hermano y siempre están nuevos esos discos de desbaste oooo en su empresa los botan nuevos
Es maravillosa la abundancia
Jesus, I wish I would've seen this at the beginning of the week when I made a roof rack for a customers pickup. Wouldve made it easier.
I just made a roof rack for myself last weekendand my finished product would have looked nicer had i seen this video.
@@StevenMendez very much agreed. The customer was very pleased with my work, but it would've been stunning if I saw this video
They make laminated cotton wheels that can into those inside corners.
Your video had a laser light welder before your video. Do you know anything about these new welders?
Sorry, I got a different add at the beginning.
That’s for sheet metal and isn’t gonna be a strong connection
I'm not getting a stair video am i?
Thanks! I have one more on esthetics: Whenever possible, I align the weld seam of the tubing🙂. Call me nuts if you will...
I don't know what you mean by "I align the weld seam of the tubing" ?
So do i 🤣
@ Dan L @Gary King Sorry gents for not explaining more clearly. This type of square or rectangular tubing is formed starting from a strip of sheetmetal, folded to the desired shape and welded shut lengthwise on one of the flanks and ground or rather milled smooth, all in one continuous proces. This seem however remains visible under even a couple of layers of coating. Looks better to my taste to see this line continue through corners if it cannot be helped that it is on the 'showing' side of the work. Added avantage: especially cheaper production tubes are evidently not 100% square. So using this method you line up a corner of 89'30" with the same rather than with it's counterpart 90'30" which means that things get flush anyway. I hope you can follow this dutchman's explanation😶?
@@Calligraphybooster Ha! Thanks. As soon as I've read "This type of square or rectangular tubing is formed" I immediately knew what you meant. I do the same. But that last part about the 89'30" I didn't think about. Good tip!
I do the same thing. But for the purpose of this video, I just made one 45° cut in the center of a piece of scrap we had.
👍👍
Cool job
One thing you missed... to match the welded seam on the tubing
He also talks about painting later. No need to match seams when you plan to paint. And really, it's a detail you don't really need to worry about most of the time anyway. It's purely aesthetic.
@@elkvis ya you said it .... you go girl....
@@elkvis plus astetics is pleasing to the eye... the welded seams shows through the paint girly ...
He prolly only cut the tube in half once at 45. Makes sense for demo purposes.
@@andrewalspaugh5395 well ya but if you teaching may as well state it ...
You did so much stroking of the square tube that I think I might have a pudgey!
The KID is back lol
Lookit that everlast go! Holy spatter batman!
Nice job. One way grinding is a good idea. Bevel the inside too, then weld it to a smooth transition. It'll look much nicer. Bevelling only three sides doesn't make sense.
The direction of welding should be 'from inner corner to outer corner'. Because the deformation goes towards the end of the suture.
Please normalize your audio. I love your videos, but I don't love surprise loud music.
WE WANT BOB!
Wow
Don't waste your time doing this, on thick wall tubing like in the video, just crank your welder out and go full ahead, it will penetrate same amount as with bevel
@@Gecko88 good welding machine can weld right through 8-10 wall, get a proper equipment if you are in the welding trade
@@sanho1988 Yeah i normally weld it hot enough to actually fuse the metal completely so when i do grind out the top reinforment its as good as box section thats just been bought. I do it on spray mig so i have to be very good on my travel speed but normally i can do it without deforming the metal from too much heat or burn through.. Just something that takes practice.
alex is correct mate.. get a proper machine if you plan on welding some decent metal sections as at the end of the day you want to make sure things are welded properly if the thing you welding interacts with people in some form.. Dont work on something that can potentially injure someone in the future
@@Gecko88 I’m with you Bones. On that thickness wall I would grind a good bevel. Much better weld and control. My big welder is a 450amp Miller that could just power into that but my guess is these guys think they are but wouldn’t even get half depth penetration on 10mm wall.
@@Gecko88 Ya, backyard welders like alex think that you can just muscle through certain welds. They forget that higher heat means more distortion, a larger HAZ (heat-affected zone), more spatter, less control, a wider bead with risk of overlapping a weld due to lack of initial root penetration, and risk of damaging equipment. His way is not the best way; keep beveling the heck out of those walls!!
Just painful watching
Welding