Thank you! Glad that you like it! I think it was a 20 mm thread-rod. I can send you a photo of the entire tool or notify you if I upload it to the page on the link!
volvo on hyvä. kertaus on opintojen äiti ei tarvinut porata syntereitä kun on sylinteri holkit kiitos teille ( autohuoltosähkö asentaja ) elegtroniikka harrastaja
The liners were in the box for the amount of time spend on lubricating the parent bore, at most 5 minutes. There is one image on the web-page I've sent you a link to via a message where you can partly see the tool I had manufactured by the local smith / special-shop. It is a refined version of the method you used. We didn't do a full video of the liner removal, but we have a short clip from when we removed the last liner. Will upload it later.
congratulation! well done!!! the liners went in damn fine! nice technique with the plastic bag! How long where the liners cooled down?? Do you have a video of removing the liners??
Reply continued: The 4th cylinder were missing a compression ring and part of the piston was gone too but you can see that in some of the images on the web-page too.
+AN HYDRAUMIND I'm not quite sure what you mean, but fundamentally you should measure the parent bore for ovality and compare your measurements with the tolerance specification in the applicable workshop manual. Next, the liners used here was pre-finished liners or so-called slip-fit liners. These are ready to install without further machining, provided your engine block is in good condition and within limits with regards to ovality. Hope this answers your question.
how did you get off the bolts that connects the frame that holds the hood to the head?. just got myself a 2250 with a broken engine :-) do you got more engine info for me?
I used a ring spanner to get in behind the cylinder head. I will send you a private message with a link to a photo album with a lot of images from the overhaul process. If you have some specific questions, feel free to ask!
Since the price difference between small and big wasn't an issue I just bought the biggest standard box of dry-ice available. Think it was 17 or 19 kilos. That was more than enough.
Der er flere muligheder. Jeg har en video, der viser hvordan vi gjorde: th-cam.com/video/o_MKFkztBHw/w-d-xo.html - Værktøjet er vist til sidst i videoen!
No Loctite and a 50/50 mix of engine oil and petroleum as a lubricant. This was recommended by, let's say, knowledgeable people on Perkins engines. It actually says it in the video description 🙂
Thanks for the speedy reply. Inserting liners is the next job on my mf135 but sadly I can't get dry ice where I live. I might have to chill them in my freezer for a few days and try your 50/50 mix.
Perkins engine! Great work, comrades!
Thank you!
Thank you! Glad that you like it! I think it was a 20 mm thread-rod. I can send you a photo of the entire tool or notify you if I upload it to the page on the link!
volvo on hyvä. kertaus on opintojen äiti ei tarvinut porata syntereitä kun on sylinteri holkit kiitos teille ( autohuoltosähkö asentaja ) elegtroniikka harrastaja
The liners were in the box for the amount of time spend on lubricating the parent bore, at most 5 minutes. There is one image on the web-page I've sent you a link to via a message where you can partly see the tool I had manufactured by the local smith / special-shop. It is a refined version of the method you used. We didn't do a full video of the liner removal, but we have a short clip from when we removed the last liner. Will upload it later.
Thanks for the link! nice pics! what thread size did you use for the puller?
congratulation! well done!!! the liners went in damn fine! nice technique with the plastic bag! How long where the liners cooled down?? Do you have a video of removing the liners??
yes, that would be fine!
Reply continued:
The 4th cylinder were missing a compression ring and part of the piston was gone too but you can see that in some of the images on the web-page too.
Using this technique, is it necessary to machine the liner to avoid out of round
+AN HYDRAUMIND I'm not quite sure what you mean, but fundamentally you should measure the parent bore for ovality and compare your measurements with the tolerance specification in the applicable workshop manual. Next, the liners used here was pre-finished liners or so-called slip-fit liners. These are ready to install without further machining, provided your engine block is in good condition and within limits with regards to ovality. Hope this answers your question.
how did you get off the bolts that connects the frame that holds the hood to the head?.
just got myself a 2250 with a broken engine :-)
do you got more engine info for me?
I used a ring spanner to get in behind the cylinder head. I will send you a private message with a link to a photo album with a lot of images from the overhaul process. If you have some specific questions, feel free to ask!
Ok og tak
how many kilo dryice you ordered for this project and was it enough or too mush?
Since the price difference between small and big wasn't an issue I just bought the biggest standard box of dry-ice available. Think it was 17 or 19 kilos. That was more than enough.
hvor længe lå foringer i tør is og hvordan varmet i blokken op
+jd 3040 5 minutter. Blokken blev ikke varmet yderligere op end en god sommerdag kunne klare!
Hvordan får man dem op vis man skal det ??
Der er flere muligheder. Jeg har en video, der viser hvordan vi gjorde: th-cam.com/video/o_MKFkztBHw/w-d-xo.html - Værktøjet er vist til sidst i videoen!
Did you loctite the liners and was that oil you used to aid insertion? Thanks.
No Loctite and a 50/50 mix of engine oil and petroleum as a lubricant. This was recommended by, let's say, knowledgeable people on Perkins engines. It actually says it in the video description 🙂
Thanks for the speedy reply. Inserting liners is the next job on my mf135 but sadly I can't get dry ice where I live. I might have to chill them in my freezer for a few days and try your 50/50 mix.