I saw somewhere that when binding your edges with bias strips like you did at the end, it can be easier to bind the edges of the garment pieces BEFORE sewing the seams together. That way you're not having to wrangle the piece so much when pressing and sewing to work around the other seam allowance or fight against the bulk and shaping of the constructed garment.
I do hand sewing only. My favorites are French seams and flat felled seams. Although on the flat felled seams I roll the edge by hand instead of pressing, and I use a hemming stitch.
You're. PSYCHIC. I JUST wanted to check what I knew about finishing off raw seams with a video, but I'm a bit slow with the way some information is delivered... You're one of the few TH-cam seamsters I can actually understand both visually, aurally and in writing... THANK YOU! 😊
One thing that really helps with French seams is to use a zipper foot. Makes it easier to see where the first seam is at and to get up as close as possible to it.
What realy helps? An industrial sewing machine with built-in edge trimmer😂 in stage one and presser foot with edge guide for finishing. While mentioned machine is not so common, presser feet is available also for home machine. By this way is possible to produce relatively easy and fast narrow & flat french seams also on delicate fabrics where is not available or suitable to use ironing. (My lovely set is 2mm edge trimmer followed with second operation with 1/8" edge guide on realy thin fabric or 3/16" on little thicker. Used on all silk-like slippery materials, viscose, sometimes thin cotton.)
A well-crafted and comprehensive manual. 📒 I can only think of two other main types of edge finishing that are not mentioned: 1) pinking scissors = scissors with a zigzag blade ✂ 2) straight cutting of an allowance in the absolute proximity of the stitch line, which is made at the closest possible distance to the edge of the garment (I also recommend good scissors)✂
I wish I had this sew machine ... have only simple sewing manual machine ..I feel so lucky to find this platform. ..hope I'll definitely learn like pro Hira from pakistan 😇
Welcome to Pakistan, I admire Pakistani machine repairmen of all kinds. World is so small, my favorite online professional tailor is of Punjab origine. P.S. How much costs basic sewing machine in your country?
Thanks man I'm learning a lot I've been sewing most of my life but I've never gotten such wonderful pointers and advise thank you you've resolved a lot of issues in my sewing thanks man, it's a lot of fun sewing for your kids it really is
Felled seams are my favorite since I like the top stitch look on my garments. Even after getting a serger it is still my go to. Zigzag stitching the edges gives me too much anxiety since I've had a machine try to eat the fabric a time or two while doing it. It seems like french seams would be great for long straight areas. Great video showing all of the options.
Flat-felled seams with double topstitching were my lovely... so I bought my own feed-of-the-arm machine few yars ago. 😊 Just for fun. So, FFS are realy fast and realy strong (double chainstitch through all layers), the best on non elastic fabrics, for stright or only slightly curved seams. Pants, side seams of shirts, technical sewing. Sewing of sleeves is another application. French seams have a different use, they are not so fast (two operations), not so strong (the seam is held by only one stitch line on the top side of the fabric, the second one only keeps edges inside the rib). But - well made - they are free of puckering, even on curved seams. Also top stitching is not always suitable in all cases. It depends...
I hear you on the sewing machine eating fabrics with a zig-zag! Especially lightweight fabrics. Good on you for still taking the time doing the flat felled seams.
For the bias bound edge, if instead of folding in half, you fold with extra on the backside, you can do everything the same except hide the final stitch "in the ditch". It's kind of a hybrid between your bias bound edge and a Hong Kong finish. Basically, it gives you a Hong Kong finish with all edges encapsulated.
The video I've been waiting for 🎉 so helpful. I don't have an overlocker so I usually do zigzag stich or the french seam. Now I actually want to try flat felt seam, it looks so clean. Hong Kong seam is also very nice looking, it will be the next level for me 😁
Thank you, I'm glad you got something out of my content. Indeed, may you master all the finishes. The bound edge is as time consuming as it is beautiful :)
Another brilliant video and so timely ! I'm just about to make my first oair of trousers and I don't have an overlocker/serger - so really wasn't sure how to finish the seams for longevity. Now I've seen all these options I think I'll bias bond the pocket pieces before they get sewn together - and then use flat felled seams for the sides? 🤔
Side seams definitelly flat-felled. The bias binding of the pockets inside the pants can be too bulky and annoying, it is better to sew them with the right sides together, flip them to reverse and sew again, something like a wider French seam. Bite the edge a bit before fliping it to get better curves. (Depends on the fabric used, it should be relatively thin.)
Sir , I need information about types of sewing thread using in garment stitching , about their thickness . I mean which type of thread ( in mm)is suitable for Trousers , shirts or denim , coat like that ?
Simple question, complicated answer. I'll wait for the others, then I'll add more for myself. First of all: garment threads are never marked in mm of thickness - you can meet imperial or metric numbers, tex/dtex or so called ticket number. Also, there are more than two main structural groups of threads according to their composition, with different tensile and strength propperties.
It really depends on the type of fabric that's being used. Indeed it's a long a complicated answer but the general rule of thumb I've found is that the heavier the fabric, the thicker the thread should be.
@@KokanAgriculturegoatfarm .... and realy depends on type of the seam, load on the seam. Not only the weight of the fabric plays a role, but also the density of the fabric. It also depends on the thickest/thinest needle/thread your machine can sew, how strong tension of upper thread you can adjust. And how much visible stitches are allowed. And what kind of functionality you want to obtain. The strength and flexibility of the thread must correspond to the strength and flexibility of the fabric. Too thick thread on thin fabric makes unsightly seams, lockstitch thread crossing does not hide in the fabric and comes out on the surface. Sometimes stitch line doesn't look stright but "spiral" like. All examples I will explain in metric ticket number marking (Tkt. No.) of threads, where small numbers mean a stronger thread. Conversion to tex/dtex or imperial units can be found in any thread manufacturer's company catalog. Commonly: for light to medium fabrics of medium thickness (approx. 100 to approx. 200 g/m2), average load seams -> polyester or cotton thread Tkt. No. 120. For heavier loads, pure polyester threads will work better, or you can choose 120 thread with a corespun construction or a stronger thread, i.e. 80. Tkt. No. 80 or 50 threads are great for top stitching or sewing jackets, st. coats. If you don't want to see the stitch lines, use really short stitches and a thinner needle (#70) and Tkt. No. 140 or even 180 thread. Of course, they are not intended for demanding use. But they are excellent on light and silky fabrics, on underwear... Denim ... aaah. These are medium to high weight materials. As you can see on YT, of course heavier machinery is used. Perfect seams are made with threads #50 to #30 (extreme), you also need a slightly stronger needle (#110 to 125). This is also where problems with weak home machines begin. Upholstery threads begin from Tkt. No. 40 or 30, for threads Tkt. No. 15 and 10 you realy need another machine. Leather sewing threads are even thicker.
(I'm not Mr. Cornelius, but I can try to answer.) Sometimes it is already part of the cut pattern. It is often useful to leave longer the side where there are fewer layers of fabric or less (or more convex) shaping. And there are also established customs on which side the fabric is folded on the surface for appearance or functionality (i.e. pair of jeans).
@TaDarling1 when doing sleeve caps specifically, I think it's best to cut the shoulder side shorter, but I imagine it's up to you depending on what the garment is that you're sewing. @krabatour also brings up some good points.
@@CorneliusQuiring Many thanks. I checked out the points made by @Krabatour and they are indeed very useful. I already own both pinking shears and a rotary cutter with a pinking blade.
@@krabatour Many thanks. Very useful information, including your original tip to use pinking shears. I use a rotary cutter with a pinking blade, and I always get an even cut. Prior to my inquiry, I was assuming that the side that would get trimmed down would be the side facing the back of the garment so that the longer side would fold over towards that back shorter side. However, since I would also be trying to reduce the bulk, it does makes sense to leave the side with fewer layers longer.
But... The overlock rolled hem looks good on women's clothing - edges of skirts, dress sleeves... firm and slightly ruffled adds sometimes just the right look and usability. It doesn't matter if the fabric is knitted or woven. :-)
i like the idea behind the video. but please stop talking about your newsletter or your new scissors (link in bio!!!!) in between every talking point. it's so annoying and doesn't feel like you respect the viewer's time
![[UNCUT] The Loyal Pin ปิ่นภักดิ์ EP.6 (1/4)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/m05kZ2GDKXg/mqdefault.jpg)
I saw somewhere that when binding your edges with bias strips like you did at the end, it can be easier to bind the edges of the garment pieces BEFORE sewing the seams together. That way you're not having to wrangle the piece so much when pressing and sewing to work around the other seam allowance or fight against the bulk and shaping of the constructed garment.
This is a really good tip and thing to consider indeed. Thanks for sharing and elaborating on this point in the comments here.
Every video is better than the next. So glad you’re in this world making videos that I seriously enjoy.
I am glad to hear that my videos are of use to you!
I do hand sewing only. My favorites are French seams and flat felled seams. Although on the flat felled seams I roll the edge by hand instead of pressing, and I use a hemming stitch.
Consider me impressed doing it all by hand. Good on you and thanks for sharing 🙏🏻
You're. PSYCHIC. I JUST wanted to check what I knew about finishing off raw seams with a video, but I'm a bit slow with the way some information is delivered... You're one of the few TH-cam seamsters I can actually understand both visually, aurally and in writing... THANK YOU! 😊
Oh wonderful, I'm glad to hear it! Thanks for watching and may you master all the finishes you desire :)
Oh my gosh, I love the "flip in and sew" technique! I've never seen this before, and it's a grand alternative to french seams! LOVE!!
I'm glad to hear it. Happy sewing.
One thing that really helps with French seams is to use a zipper foot. Makes it easier to see where the first seam is at and to get up as close as possible to it.
What realy helps? An industrial sewing machine with built-in edge trimmer😂 in stage one and presser foot with edge guide for finishing. While mentioned machine is not so common, presser feet is available also for home machine. By this way is possible to produce relatively easy and fast narrow & flat french seams also on delicate fabrics where is not available or suitable to use ironing. (My lovely set is 2mm edge trimmer followed with second operation with 1/8" edge guide on realy thin fabric or 3/16" on little thicker. Used on all silk-like slippery materials, viscose, sometimes thin cotton.)
@MaesRuth that's a great little additional tip. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Thank you for you contributions as well @krabatour
A well-crafted and comprehensive manual. 📒
I can only think of two other main types of edge finishing that are not mentioned:
1) pinking scissors = scissors with a zigzag blade ✂
2) straight cutting of an allowance in the absolute proximity of the stitch line, which is made at the closest possible distance to the edge of the garment (I also recommend good scissors)✂
Thank you for adding your knowledge to this video. It's much appreciated.
King Cornelius 👑
You seriously make it easier and more fun to sew. What a paradox!! Thanks for being out there. ❤
I'm glad to hear it.
So helpful! No sewing machine so I'm learning to do all of this by hand. Thank you!!!
oh wonderful, I'm glad to hear it.
Love this!! So clear and informative! Thanks Cornelius!
I'm glad to hear it.
All round performed in surger seam and without using surger with the excellent tricks thanks a lot .
I'm glad to hear it. Happy sewing.
I love you, Cornelius!
You are kind, thank you :)
Thank you Cornelius. You are so talented and have a wonderful way of teaching. Much appreciated 🙂
Thank you. 🙏🏻
It's amazing how good some of these look. The bound edge seam is just so clean
I know eh? If only the bound edge wasn't so much work!
❤ this newly discovered ste ... ! Great! SO INFORMATIVE.
I'm glad to hear it!
Great information, thank you!
You do the demos with curved examples! You angel you!
I'm glad you appreciate it.
Serger trucks, serger finishing? Another well done video . Compliments to the Corns who came together to create this video.
The many Corns say thank you in unison. I hope you're well my friend.
Thanks... Needed that one...
I wish I had this sew machine ... have only simple sewing manual machine ..I feel so lucky to find this platform. ..hope I'll definitely learn like pro
Hira from pakistan 😇
Welcome to Pakistan, I admire Pakistani machine repairmen of all kinds. World is so small, my favorite online professional tailor is of Punjab origine.
P.S. How much costs basic sewing machine in your country?
I have full faith you can master all the techniques you need with your machine. Happy sewing.
@@CorneliusQuiring 😚
@@krabatour I had bought before 7 years ago ... manual sewing machine on that time it's price was 10,000
Thanks man I'm learning a lot I've been sewing most of my life but I've never gotten such wonderful pointers and advise thank you you've resolved a lot of issues in my sewing thanks man, it's a lot of fun sewing for your kids it really is
That's awesome that you're sewing for them. Hopefully they have/gain an appreciation for the craft as well. I'm glad my videos are of use as well.
Felled seams are my favorite since I like the top stitch look on my garments. Even after getting a serger it is still my go to. Zigzag stitching the edges gives me too much anxiety since I've had a machine try to eat the fabric a time or two while doing it. It seems like french seams would be great for long straight areas. Great video showing all of the options.
Flat-felled seams with double topstitching were my lovely... so I bought my own feed-of-the-arm machine few yars ago. 😊 Just for fun.
So, FFS are realy fast and realy strong (double chainstitch through all layers), the best on non elastic fabrics, for stright or only slightly curved seams. Pants, side seams of shirts, technical sewing. Sewing of sleeves is another application.
French seams have a different use, they are not so fast (two operations), not so strong (the seam is held by only one stitch line on the top side of the fabric, the second one only keeps edges inside the rib). But - well made - they are free of puckering, even on curved seams. Also top stitching is not always suitable in all cases. It depends...
I hear you on the sewing machine eating fabrics with a zig-zag! Especially lightweight fabrics. Good on you for still taking the time doing the flat felled seams.
@krabatour That's a fancy machine
For the bias bound edge, if instead of folding in half, you fold with extra on the backside, you can do everything the same except hide the final stitch "in the ditch". It's kind of a hybrid between your bias bound edge and a Hong Kong finish. Basically, it gives you a Hong Kong finish with all edges encapsulated.
Oh nice, thank you for sharing your technique, I appreciate it! I'll give that a try.
The video I've been waiting for 🎉 so helpful. I don't have an overlocker so I usually do zigzag stich or the french seam. Now I actually want to try flat felt seam, it looks so clean. Hong Kong seam is also very nice looking, it will be the next level for me 😁
Thank you, I'm glad you got something out of my content. Indeed, may you master all the finishes. The bound edge is as time consuming as it is beautiful :)
You are amazing! So little time....
:) Thank you. 🙏🏻
Really useful, I reinvented flat felling once, the first time a made a man’s shirt😅. No idea what I was doing, just copying a bought shirt
🔝😁I reinvented flat felling once ... 😁🪡
I guess that means it's an intuitive stitch which is good to hear :)
Why do I love the "ads" sections 😭
That is music to my ears :)
Dude, you are too flippin' cool.
🤠🙏🏻
I am subscribed and I am not going anywhere, pal!! I truly enjoy your explanation and instruction. 👍
Well I really appreciate your support. Happy sewing.
Nice! Thanks for making this, Corn.
Hope you're well 🙂
Thanks for watching as well and may you be well too.
Thanks! ❤
You are generous. Thank you! Happy sewing.
French seams remind me of sewing invisible zippers 😊
Interesting correlation!
French seam is very smart
indeed :)
Fantastic 😍! Glad to have found you 😊xx
Well thank you for watching as well!
Very useful video and channel.. thank you
I'm glad to hear it!
Another great video, and i see you keep creeping up to that 100k mark!
Slowly but steadily, we're getting there :) Thank you for the continued support.
What a genius idea to use tweezers when pressing those tiny folds! Hopefully I'll never roast my fingertips again.
Oh wonderful, I'm glad there was a little nugget of usefulness in the video :)
The other explanation is that I feel like I didn't have the best training and I like what you teach!
I am glad to hear that my videos are of use to you. Thanks for watching.
I would’ve never thought to use tweezers when pressing! No more burned fingers!
Oh wonderful, I'm glad there was a nugget of good info in there.
anwsered all my questions
I'm glad to hear it.
Good ideasthanku for me giyde
Thanks for watching. 🙏🏻
Another brilliant video and so timely ! I'm just about to make my first oair of trousers and I don't have an overlocker/serger - so really wasn't sure how to finish the seams for longevity. Now I've seen all these options I think I'll bias bond the pocket pieces before they get sewn together - and then use flat felled seams for the sides? 🤔
Side seams definitelly flat-felled. The bias binding of the pockets inside the pants can be too bulky and annoying, it is better to sew them with the right sides together, flip them to reverse and sew again, something like a wider French seam. Bite the edge a bit before fliping it to get better curves. (Depends on the fabric used, it should be relatively thin.)
Thank you so much for taking time to reply@@krabatour - I'll do the pockets as you suggest. Cheers!
@@pringledingle3180 You're welcome. Then let us know.
Hopefully the pants turn out as you hope!
Sir , I need information about types of sewing thread using in garment stitching , about their thickness .
I mean which type of thread ( in mm)is suitable for Trousers , shirts or denim , coat like that ?
Simple question, complicated answer.
I'll wait for the others, then I'll add more for myself.
First of all: garment threads are never marked in mm of thickness - you can meet imperial or metric numbers, tex/dtex or so called ticket number.
Also, there are more than two main structural groups of threads according to their composition, with different tensile and strength propperties.
It really depends on the type of fabric that's being used. Indeed it's a long a complicated answer but the general rule of thumb I've found is that the heavier the fabric, the thicker the thread should be.
@@CorneliusQuiring thank you
@@KokanAgriculturegoatfarm
.... and realy depends on type of the seam, load on the seam. Not only the weight of the fabric plays a role, but also the density of the fabric. It also depends on the thickest/thinest needle/thread your machine can sew, how strong tension of upper thread you can adjust. And how much visible stitches are allowed. And what kind of functionality you want to obtain.
The strength and flexibility of the thread must correspond to the strength and flexibility of the fabric. Too thick thread on thin fabric makes unsightly seams, lockstitch thread crossing does not hide in the fabric and comes out on the surface. Sometimes stitch line doesn't look stright but "spiral" like.
All examples I will explain in metric ticket number marking (Tkt. No.) of threads, where small numbers mean a stronger thread. Conversion to tex/dtex or imperial units can be found in any thread manufacturer's company catalog.
Commonly: for light to medium fabrics of medium thickness (approx. 100 to approx. 200 g/m2), average load seams -> polyester or cotton thread Tkt. No. 120. For heavier loads, pure polyester threads will work better, or you can choose 120 thread with a corespun construction or a stronger thread, i.e. 80. Tkt. No. 80 or 50 threads are great for top stitching or sewing jackets, st. coats.
If you don't want to see the stitch lines, use really short stitches and a thinner needle (#70) and Tkt. No. 140 or even 180 thread. Of course, they are not intended for demanding use. But they are excellent on light and silky fabrics, on underwear...
Denim ... aaah. These are medium to high weight materials. As you can see on YT, of course heavier machinery is used. Perfect seams are made with threads #50 to #30 (extreme), you also need a slightly stronger needle (#110 to 125). This is also where problems with weak home machines begin.
Upholstery threads begin from Tkt. No. 40 or 30, for threads Tkt. No. 15 and 10 you realy need another machine. Leather sewing threads are even thicker.
Awesome video. On the flat felled seam, does it matter which side of the seam allowance you choose to trim down to a couple of milimeters?
(I'm not Mr. Cornelius, but I can try to answer.) Sometimes it is already part of the cut pattern. It is often useful to leave longer the side where there are fewer layers of fabric or less (or more convex) shaping. And there are also established customs on which side the fabric is folded on the surface for appearance or functionality (i.e. pair of jeans).
@TaDarling1 when doing sleeve caps specifically, I think it's best to cut the shoulder side shorter, but I imagine it's up to you depending on what the garment is that you're sewing. @krabatour also brings up some good points.
@@CorneliusQuiring Many thanks. I checked out the points made by @Krabatour and they are indeed very useful. I already own both pinking shears and a rotary cutter with a pinking blade.
@@krabatour Many thanks. Very useful information, including your original tip to use pinking shears. I use a rotary cutter with a pinking blade, and I always get an even cut. Prior to my inquiry, I was assuming that the side that would get trimmed down would be the side facing the back of the garment so that the longer side would fold over towards that back shorter side. However, since I would also be trying to reduce the bulk, it does makes sense to leave the side with fewer layers longer.
bigBIG!
🤠🙏🏻
What about using pinking sheers. Save on the extra bulk.
A good point. Thanks for bringing it up.
Is this not a Hong Kong seam?
That is another name for it, yes.
Plz make cargo pant
noted.
I just really hate the look of serged edges. I am considering a serger for knits only, but really French seams just look better.
But... The overlock rolled hem looks good on women's clothing - edges of skirts, dress sleeves... firm and slightly ruffled adds sometimes just the right look and usability. It doesn't matter if the fabric is knitted or woven. :-)
@jessicaraine8403 Indeed, the beauty of sewing is we don't have to use the seams we don't like :) Happy sewing.
Please we want a translation in Arabic
Noted!
i like the idea behind the video. but please stop talking about your newsletter or your new scissors (link in bio!!!!) in between every talking point. it's so annoying and doesn't feel like you respect the viewer's time