I always use to run a 28/10.0/15 Slicks Mostly M/T Stiff Sidewall. Car is 86 Fox Body Mustang Stock Style Suspension, bought all adj. Now. 521 BBF N/A through a 1000 cfm 4150 Mild Solid Roller, Out of the Box Trickflow Street/Strip Heads, C-4 No Brake 4200 stall 8.8 Spool 3.90 gears. Going Low to Mid Nines. Always ran Slicks, couple of years ago tried some M/T Drag Radials, Wow !!! First thing i noticed So Stable on the Top End. Times were a Little Off at first, couldn't get to Launch Clean. So me and my Bro thinking, Drop Air Pressure. Kept getting worse, This was like 10 Years Ago, Drag Radials were new to me. So talking to people at track, All saying gotta run really high air pressure compared to Slicks, So put 20 in them, First Launch, both Tires came up about 3" Like Normal, Car went nice and straight, Top End was Like a Sunday drive now. Picked up 2 mph First Pass. After this My Car hasn't seen a set of Slicks since, Probably Never Will. Been running the M/T ET Street Pro Drag Radial 275/60/15 Had to make few adjustments to fine tune em, The Drag Radials seems to like alot more Negative Pinion Angle, Atleast on my Car. Had my 1986 Mustang since 1994 Couple different Engine Combos, 69 351 Windsor, 72 351 Cleveland, Now a Stroked 460. 521 Cubes.
I look at this anaytically, and I'm still trying to understand it better. Here's my setup: 440 foot pounds, 3900 lbs heavily biased to the driver's side, leaf springs with the overloads clamped up front, sloppy cracked rubber bushings, QA1 double adjustables with a lot of rebound damping, Manual transmission, solid hub 6-puck, light flywheel, 2.97 first gear, 3.42 posi. My trashed bushings make my truck dog-track and wallow. --Radials have the cords that go from bead to bead (radially) and the circumferential belts. The wheel is coupled to the tread in shear. When you twist the wheel inside the tire, the sidewall has to pull the shoulders tight. Most radials have rounded shoulders and circumferential grooves that make you use the middle of the tread. Get up to 2500 rpm in first gear, lift, and hit it. The hit is solid. Get up to 4500 rpm, lift, and hit it again. They break loose without going into full roast, and you still accelerate. If they do hook, the hit is solid still. - Slicks have cords that form an arrow. You can choose which arrow aims up and down the track, or the same direction. When the sidewall wrinkles, the contact patch gets longer and the tire diameter gets smaller like a little gear rolling inside a big one on a planetary gearset. When I get to 2500 in first gear and nail it, the hit is compliant. A 4500 hit with 10 psi in the tire is a squeeze. You go into the seat and the dashboard feels like it's gonna break. I don't have enough horsepower to really twist my crappy setup. - I think my bushings are soft enough to damp the hard hit from the radials on 18 psi, and that low pressure in the slicks just forgives me by chance. If I put in sphericals and wedge the leaf springs before I clamp them, I think the radials would exploit my frame flex more, and have a really solid hit.
Afternoon Sorry I’m bit slow getting out here. Yesterday was nuts. First change the bushing, if their cracked their most likely hard. With the weight of the vehicle and with a stick, I would go radial it stiff wall slick. Either will work however, you will need to adjust the suspension/tire pressure accordingly. The QA1’s are a great idea. Are you running any type of cal-trac or traction bar?
stevenminix I’ve heard that however, we haven’t tried them yet. Hoosier typically makes some great stuff. Hopefully we will get a chance to try a pair this coming season. Thanks for your input.
I recently picked up a original set of 15x9 weld pro stars from 1994. My dilemma is this, I want to run a drag radial but I’m not sure if the bead on the wheel could work with a radial or if it’s standard or what. The guy I got them from said I could run a radial but it would be better to run a tube in them. But I literally can’t find any info on anyone running a tube in a drag radial 😂 he said something about the beads being different or something like that. I don’t have much knowledge on drag wheels so I’m trying my best to learn and not end up killing myself LOL thanks!
Good Morning, As far as I can remember the bead hasn’t changed much, if any on the welds. If in doubt give their tech line a call. Radials do not require a tube.
Thanks for watching. For a dedicated track car and depending on the class I’m planning to run; I’d lean to ward the slick. It will be more forgiving to a loose surface than the radial.
Wat would u recommend for track use on a 2019 Dodge Charger 5.7 stock but I do have a pedal commander and it can’t get any traction in the highest setting at all! It takes off so fast even with my 305s it spins
Hey thanks for the video. Just one question. I have a golf GTI which is a front wheel drive. Recently ordered some parts. We are hoping for 550-600whp. I want to get a set of wheels and tires just for drag racing so I can just swap them with my daily use tires. Also our drag racing track has the same pavement as you see on public roads so no special drag racing tarmac. What do you recommend for Tire to get the best time considering the conditions we have? A semi slick or a slick or a full drag tire (preferably a Hoosier) since they are available here? Gonna need the best tire for the tarmac we have here.
@@FabRaceModRepeat thanks a lot friend. I really appreciate your help. Unfortunately we don't have a proper drag racing track in iran. Our drag racing event is in a normal circuit race track. They do the drag on the circuit's straight line and They don't have drag racing tarmac. For example a guy has a beefed up e34 bmw with twin turbo S85 V10 BMW engine pushing 1350hp with full drag setup did a time of 10.68. That's pretty not good for such a car. If that car had off the line traction would probably do 8's easily.
@@xKingKB7xactually slicks for the street. Radial for track. Radials will just blow these tires off on the street. Slicks spin while gripping so not as much tire smoke.
Got a 900 whp bmw i wanna slicks because all the street radials ive tried are not doing it for me slipping all over what would u recomend for street races
28 10.5w slick or the big mT pro drag radial? 3200 car 600-800 hp leaf springs. Option of trans brake Ran the 275 pro prior to mini tub and it worked decent
Dylan McGill This is a great question. Especially with the leaf spring setup. Both tires would work well, if you’re running caltracs or something similar, with adjustable shocks. I would lean toward the pro radial.
Fab Race Mod Repeat I have caltracs. I think the 28 slick will look better but the radial might be faster. It’s taller as well (takes away from the look)
Good morning, I have only had my hands on one of the C6’s so far, a ZO6. 2008 I believe. We had no chassis dyno information on the car. It did have adjustable shocks and It worked ok with a radial. We didn’t get to try a slick before my client changed jobs and moved away. I felt that a better pair of shocks IE: a pair with finer/more adjustment or a very light coil over would have helped quit a bit. Like most independent rear setups, wheel hop was the issue with it.
@@FabRaceModRepeat I'm looking at a 28" et street r for my vette, and I'm not really sure what would work better, a radial or bias ply? 17"... I'm probably not going to do shocks for a while, so my suspension will stay pretty stiff.. and I will only use it on a bare road (completely no prep) for mostly roll on stuff. I already have r888r for daily, but would like to at least have a plan for when I turn the boost all the way up to ~30 psi. Thanks for the information, I like your video style. Got a sub from me
That’s a heavy one. Most of the diesel/big suv/gas 4x4 clients I have use drag radials or stiff wall slicks with tubes, if the vehicle hasn’t been lightened. The tires will wear faster however, they still work well. The main thing on the larger vehicles is to not over load the tire. 7000/4=1750lbs per tire (that’s not accounting for front weight bias). It would be worth getting it scaled, and watch the front end weight.
@@FabRaceModRepeat I disagree. The drag radial having less total grip, and would be less likely to break something. I am very interested in this very question, as I have a 69 Corvette, stock rear end, 3.42 gear, and am planning to run a drag radial so I have a threshold. And, even if the car breaks the tires loose, the car will still accelerate, whereas a slick, once it spins, the tire in-wrinkles (balloons), gets skinnier, and "blows the tires off!" And, the rear independent suspension is rated @ 500tq, and the radials will not allow slamming all the power down at once. They will spin a little while propelling the car, and maintain the same wide footprint on the pavement until I gain traction. Also, the weight of vehicle doesnt affect traction as stated in video. Alot of guys running a heavy Chevy, or C10, the better be on a slick because they will need it. Everyone I have seen as a serious car have been on wrinkle walls. Trucks suspensions and weight bias are not proportionate to cars, and are likely front loaded. My v6 4.3 stock s10 car light the tires up with ease. Definately needs a wrinkling tire to get traction.
Danial Miller Thanks for your comment. ciivicr’s question was about shock, not total loading. Shock comes from the initial hit, just as the tires Start to dig in. That side wall wrinkle acts as a shock absorber which allows the drive train to ease into the hit, giving the car a split sec to move a bit instead of a straight “slam full load” or spin Situation. Hooking up a C3 vette with stock rear suspension AND a big block is always a sticky situation. I would go with a 9” slick or equivalent Drag Radial, then use tire pressure to tweak the spin point. Keep in mind that if the track is prepped right that may still be Enough patch area to ring something. Be sure to watch out for wheel hop. I agree that Weight doesn’t directly effect traction however, it does drive sidewall choice. If the vehicle is over 2400lbs start looking at stiff sidewalls. A drag radial will hook just as good as a slick if the car is setup properly for them. They also like a tight track condition.
I love a radial pro. Here is the kicker though if you miss on you tube yo go out and it will blow the tires off... go back and turn the car up and it will hookup. All in al your suspension has to be set up just right but buddy if you can align all the dots you will fly mainly because less rolling resistance and a lot depends on the track do the spray a lot of glue then yes a radial is better or if your track on sprays glue once or twice then a slick would be better
@@K1LL3R_M1LL3R The main reason for a stiff wall Slick is for a car with a standard transmission. The standard Shocks the tires harder, this with a soft wall can cause snap back causing the rear of the car to bounce. The stiff wall slick will stop this bounce.
htownsfinest87 I answered the question that was asked. Maybe when the channel is bigger I’ll take a set of slicks, a set of Radials and a set of quick time pros to the track, swap them round on the black car and we’ll test them. Of course my data will probably very from another cars, just depends?!?😉
I had drag radials on my71 Chevelle street/strip car. Love the fact that I could drive to the track, race and drive home.
I always use to run a 28/10.0/15 Slicks Mostly M/T Stiff Sidewall. Car is 86 Fox Body Mustang Stock Style Suspension, bought all adj. Now. 521 BBF N/A through a 1000 cfm 4150 Mild Solid Roller, Out of the Box Trickflow Street/Strip Heads, C-4 No Brake 4200 stall 8.8 Spool 3.90 gears. Going Low to Mid Nines. Always ran Slicks, couple of years ago tried some M/T Drag Radials, Wow !!! First thing i noticed So Stable on the Top End. Times were a Little Off at first, couldn't get to Launch Clean. So me and my Bro thinking, Drop Air Pressure. Kept getting worse, This was like 10 Years Ago, Drag Radials were new to me. So talking to people at track, All saying gotta run really high air pressure compared to Slicks, So put 20 in them, First Launch, both Tires came up about 3" Like Normal, Car went nice and straight, Top End was Like a Sunday drive now. Picked up 2 mph First Pass. After this My Car hasn't seen a set of Slicks since, Probably Never Will. Been running the M/T ET Street Pro Drag Radial 275/60/15
Had to make few adjustments to fine tune em, The Drag Radials seems to like alot more Negative Pinion Angle, Atleast on my Car. Had my 1986 Mustang since 1994 Couple different Engine Combos, 69 351 Windsor, 72 351 Cleveland, Now a Stroked 460. 521 Cubes.
Bad Ass 6.0 Powerstroke
Nice!
Once you get used to them radials they are great.
the top end stability is amazing compared to a slick.
I look at this anaytically, and I'm still trying to understand it better. Here's my setup: 440 foot pounds, 3900 lbs heavily biased to the driver's side, leaf springs with the overloads clamped up front, sloppy cracked rubber bushings, QA1 double adjustables with a lot of rebound damping, Manual transmission, solid hub 6-puck, light flywheel, 2.97 first gear, 3.42 posi. My trashed bushings make my truck dog-track and wallow.
--Radials have the cords that go from bead to bead (radially) and the circumferential belts. The wheel is coupled to the tread in shear. When you twist the wheel inside the tire, the sidewall has to pull the shoulders tight. Most radials have rounded shoulders and circumferential grooves that make you use the middle of the tread. Get up to 2500 rpm in first gear, lift, and hit it. The hit is solid. Get up to 4500 rpm, lift, and hit it again. They break loose without going into full roast, and you still accelerate. If they do hook, the hit is solid still.
- Slicks have cords that form an arrow. You can choose which arrow aims up and down the track, or the same direction. When the sidewall wrinkles, the contact patch gets longer and the tire diameter gets smaller like a little gear rolling inside a big one on a planetary gearset. When I get to 2500 in first gear and nail it, the hit is compliant. A 4500 hit with 10 psi in the tire is a squeeze. You go into the seat and the dashboard feels like it's gonna break. I don't have enough horsepower to really twist my crappy setup.
- I think my bushings are soft enough to damp the hard hit from the radials on 18 psi, and that low pressure in the slicks just forgives me by chance. If I put in sphericals and wedge the leaf springs before I clamp them, I think the radials would exploit my frame flex more, and have a really solid hit.
Afternoon
Sorry I’m bit slow getting out here. Yesterday was nuts.
First change the bushing, if their cracked their most likely hard. With the weight of the vehicle and with a stick, I would go radial it stiff wall slick. Either will work however, you will need to adjust the suspension/tire pressure accordingly. The QA1’s are a great idea.
Are you running any type of cal-trac or traction bar?
The new Hoosier bracket drag radial is nice, slick, no tread and a softer sidewall than any MT drag radial.
stevenminix
I’ve heard that however, we haven’t tried them yet. Hoosier typically makes some great stuff. Hopefully we will get a chance to try a pair this coming season. Thanks for your input.
Great video, very pleasant style of explaining without fussin around
Thank you!
I recently picked up a original set of 15x9 weld pro stars from 1994. My dilemma is this, I want to run a drag radial but I’m not sure if the bead on the wheel could work with a radial or if it’s standard or what. The guy I got them from said I could run a radial but it would be better to run a tube in them. But I literally can’t find any info on anyone running a tube in a drag radial 😂 he said something about the beads being different or something like that. I don’t have much knowledge on drag wheels so I’m trying my best to learn and not end up killing myself LOL thanks!
Good Morning,
As far as I can remember the bead hasn’t changed much, if any on the welds. If in doubt give their tech line a call.
Radials do not require a tube.
Thank for the info!
Great video keep up the positivity
Thanks for watching.
Glad you found it helpful
Thanks for the info
Hi bro, what you recommended for a eg k24 260 whp? Amd 13 or 15? Its for 1/8 mile
Thanks for watching.
For a dedicated track car and depending on the class I’m planning to run; I’d lean to ward the slick. It will be more forgiving to a loose surface than the radial.
Wat would u recommend for track use on a 2019 Dodge Charger 5.7 stock but I do have a pedal commander and it can’t get any traction in the highest setting at all! It takes off so fast even with my 305s it spins
Great question:
How to get a HEMI to stick.
Are you running drag radials?
Hey thanks for the video. Just one question.
I have a golf GTI which is a front wheel drive. Recently ordered some parts. We are hoping for 550-600whp.
I want to get a set of wheels and tires just for drag racing so I can just swap them with my daily use tires. Also our drag racing track has the same pavement as you see on public roads so no special drag racing tarmac.
What do you recommend for Tire to get the best time considering the conditions we have? A semi slick or a slick or a full drag tire (preferably a Hoosier) since they are available here? Gonna need the best tire for the tarmac we have here.
I would go with a regular drag slick (Hoosier is fine) given the asphalt starting line situation.
@@FabRaceModRepeat thanks a lot friend. I really appreciate your help.
Unfortunately we don't have a proper drag racing track in iran. Our drag racing event is in a normal circuit race track. They do the drag on the circuit's straight line and They don't have drag racing tarmac.
For example a guy has a beefed up e34 bmw with twin turbo S85 V10 BMW engine pushing 1350hp with full drag setup did a time of 10.68. That's pretty not good for such a car. If that car had off the line traction would probably do 8's easily.
Drag radials for track. Slicks for street racing. 🏁🏁🏁
Drag Radials for the street. Slicks for drag racing
@@xKingKB7x exactly lmao that Emancurry guy is Insane
@@xKingKB7xactually slicks for the street. Radial for track. Radials will just blow these tires off on the street. Slicks spin while gripping so not as much tire smoke.
Got a 900 whp bmw i wanna slicks because all the street radials ive tried are not doing it for me slipping all over what would u recomend for street races
First we don’t condone street racing.
With that said, If you’re trying to do some no prep racing I would go with a slick.
28 10.5w slick or the big mT pro drag radial? 3200 car 600-800 hp leaf springs. Option of trans brake
Ran the 275 pro prior to mini tub and it worked decent
Dylan McGill
This is a great question.
Especially with the leaf spring setup.
Both tires would work well, if you’re running caltracs or something similar, with adjustable shocks. I would lean toward the pro radial.
Fab Race Mod Repeat I have caltracs. I think the 28 slick will look better but the radial might be faster. It’s taller as well (takes away from the look)
Dylan McGill
Lol
Are we trying go fast or go to the car show ?🤣
The answer to that question is two set of tires if concerned about looks.
What's the best drag set up for a 450 hp c6 corvette
Good morning,
I have only had my hands on one of the C6’s so far, a ZO6. 2008 I believe. We had no chassis dyno information on the car.
It did have adjustable shocks and It worked ok with a radial. We didn’t get to try a slick before my client changed jobs and moved away. I felt that a better pair of shocks IE: a pair with finer/more adjustment or a very light coil over would have helped quit a bit. Like most independent rear setups, wheel hop was the issue with it.
@@FabRaceModRepeat I'm looking at a 28" et street r for my vette, and I'm not really sure what would work better, a radial or bias ply? 17"... I'm probably not going to do shocks for a while, so my suspension will stay pretty stiff.. and I will only use it on a bare road (completely no prep) for mostly roll on stuff. I already have r888r for daily, but would like to at least have a plan for when I turn the boost all the way up to ~30 psi.
Thanks for the information, I like your video style. Got a sub from me
GlossinC6
Good morning and Thanks much!
If your going totally no prep I’d go bias ply.
@@FabRaceModRepeat Great thanks!
What do you recommend for a 560rwhp 7000lb truck?
That’s a heavy one.
Most of the diesel/big suv/gas 4x4 clients I have use drag radials or stiff wall slicks with tubes, if the vehicle hasn’t been lightened. The tires will wear faster however, they still work well. The main thing on the larger vehicles is to not over load the tire. 7000/4=1750lbs per tire (that’s not accounting for front weight bias). It would be worth getting it scaled, and watch the front end weight.
A weight reduction lol N Yes always more Power
I recommend either More Horsepower or Loss some weight, that's Diesel Pickup Truck Weight you got there. I know mine is just under 7000 lbs.
So if your wanting to decrease drive train shock a slick that will wrinkle would be a better choice??
civicr87109
I would think so. It would allow everything in the drivetrain move a bit before taking the full load of the launch/car
@@FabRaceModRepeat
I disagree. The drag radial having less total grip, and would be less likely to break something.
I am very interested in this very question, as I have a 69 Corvette, stock rear end, 3.42 gear, and am planning to run a drag radial so I have a threshold. And, even if the car breaks the tires loose, the car will still accelerate, whereas a slick, once it spins, the tire in-wrinkles (balloons), gets skinnier, and "blows the tires off!"
And, the rear independent suspension is rated @ 500tq, and the radials will not allow slamming all the power down at once. They will spin a little while propelling the car, and maintain the same wide footprint on the pavement until I gain traction.
Also, the weight of vehicle doesnt affect traction as stated in video. Alot of guys running a heavy Chevy, or C10, the better be on a slick because they will need it. Everyone I have seen as a serious car have been on wrinkle walls. Trucks suspensions and weight bias are not proportionate to cars, and are likely front loaded. My v6 4.3 stock s10 car light the tires up with ease. Definately needs a wrinkling tire to get traction.
Danial Miller
Thanks for your comment.
ciivicr’s question was about shock, not total loading.
Shock comes from the initial hit, just as the tires Start to dig in. That side wall wrinkle acts as a shock absorber which allows the drive train to ease into the hit, giving the car a split sec to move a bit instead of a straight “slam full load” or spin Situation.
Hooking up a C3 vette with stock rear suspension AND a big block is always a sticky situation. I would go with a 9” slick or equivalent Drag Radial, then use tire pressure to tweak the spin point.
Keep in mind that if the track is prepped right that may still be Enough patch area to ring something. Be sure to watch out for wheel hop.
I agree that Weight doesn’t directly effect traction however, it does drive sidewall choice. If the vehicle is over 2400lbs start looking at stiff sidewalls.
A drag radial will hook just as good as a slick if the car is setup properly for them. They also like a tight track condition.
I love a radial pro. Here is the kicker though if you miss on you tube yo go out and it will blow the tires off... go back and turn the car up and it will hookup. All in al your suspension has to be set up just right but buddy if you can align all the dots you will fly mainly because less rolling resistance and a lot depends on the track do the spray a lot of glue then yes a radial is better or if your track on sprays glue once or twice then a slick would be better
@@K1LL3R_M1LL3R The main reason for a stiff wall Slick is for a car with a standard transmission. The standard Shocks the tires harder, this with a soft wall can cause snap back causing the rear of the car to bounce. The stiff wall slick will stop this bounce.
Moral of the story. Depends on your car with no real data or input.
htownsfinest87
I answered the question that was asked. Maybe when the channel is bigger I’ll take a set of slicks, a set of Radials and a set of quick time pros to the track, swap them round on the black car and we’ll test them. Of course my data will probably very from another cars, just depends?!?😉
What do you recommend for street racing for a 426 hp ss
Good morning
First I don’t condone street racing. Take it to the track!
Secondly Mickey Thompson ET streets seem to be the go drag radial.
I recommend alot more Horsepower, you ain't gonna be winning too much if you're not close to a 1000 HP at the wheels nowadays.
My daily driver V-6 front wheel drive got almost that much power at the wheels. You need alot more Horsepower nowadays.
@@badass6.0powerstroke10 I got some nitto and it helps to not spin no more
@@randomguy-yv2ec There you go, spinning ain't winning.