This was both informative and encouraging. I was able to remove the clock mechanicals, find and oil the places described and successfully reassemble. Really well done.
Make sure that you ALSO CLEAN it out with zippo lighter fluid or kerosene BEFORE you do this. The entire point is to clean out the old sticky/waxy oil FIRST, blow out the kerosene or lighter fluid with an air compressor, wipe everything out, DRY put the oil lighter fluid with heat if you need to (hair drier). THEN oil it. Adding more new oil to an existing mess of stickiness and dust is a bad idea.
On your ticktocktony website you say to wear latex gloves to protect the brass. Why no gloves here? "The first step in oiling or servicing your Grandfather clock is to make sure you use latex gloves when handling any brass or metal parts. at every stage. There is acid in the oils of our fingers and this acid eats through the thin layer of lacquer when it comes in contact with brass."
People should also know that you must not oil the gears. The gears are made to work without lubrication (brass against brass). If you oil or grease the gears, they will attract dust and other particles, wearing them out.
I meant to write "contaminant" a noun, which is something that pollutes something else, like dirt or dust in oil. A bushing is: cylindrical metal sleeve used to prevent abrasion, as a bearing. A bush is like a small tree as you stated. A shaft is like a rod, in this case it goes in the bushing. I don't know why, but here's an example: Tear. A tear will come out of your eye when you cry. I can also tear your shirt in half, two pieces. They're pronounced different but spelled the same-heteronyms.
I am very political, as politics is our lives! How does politics not affect the lives of the people? It does in every way. But of course I have other interests, one of them being history, but that, for the most part, brings me back to politics! I also collect old things, and that's what brought me here, as I collect old clocks.
I'm not an expert at all, but the shaft ride in a bushing, where it rides on the oil, not on the bushing, that is if you keep it properly oiled. So there can be contaminates in the oil with no harm done because the shaft is not "grinding" the contaminate against the bushing. With the gears, I believe they are designed to touch each other, so if there's oil and particles there together, then they will act like a grinding compound, wearing the gear out. Does that make sense?
Tony, I have a 1947 Seth Thomas electric mantle clock. I took it to a clock repair shop and they replaced the movement. Though it appears new, it has a loud and constant vibrating sound to it.... Is this something that could be remedied? It chimes beautifully and keeps perfect time.
Hello Tony . I have Miller mantle clock I need to oil it but I don't know how to remove it from the case. can I oil while the mechanical inside the case?
@snogluver If the chimes will not move at all they are probably jammed. In most cases the chimes run slow because of bearing ware. In that case oil can help but will not fix the root problem of ware. Regards Tony
Thx- I was about to write this question. - especially this part from where "tick-tock" is coming. - not oil at all ? Everywhere at video it is brass against brass and possibility of dust.
We just had our circa 1820 works cleaned and operational for our Grandfather clock. It worked fine for a week but now will not chime unless I move the minute hand by hand. The our clock repair guy said to put a drop of oil on the "drop paw mechanism". No clue that is. Help
I have an old Seth Thomas Mantel clock the needs help. No model number but it says NO. 124 on the movement. There are 5 hammers, only one seems to work. When movement Tic-Tocs, it stops after a short time. From what I can see without taking it apart it looks clean. It was moved and hasn't worked since. Also there are 3 large "winding" openings for which I have the key. But there are also 2 small ones, for which I have no key. What are the little openings for? Thanks
Hi Tony, Can you oil a long case clock without removing the clock face etc??? we have a french long case clock and i would like to oil it as you illustrate in your informative video, cheers and good work. John
I hope Tony is not angry with us. I'm from Poland - as you probably know we were under occupation up to '89, and even now a lot of people think that there are the same people who rule - not as the Government, they took factories, for they had money to buy it. About real politics I have learnt at UK where I live. From "day one" I had a right to vote!, it was funny to us, when our "politician" wrote about a pothole - but it works - they work for "normal" people
Awesome. I have a movement with 503 on it and thats all. The movement is round with a single bell and is from a mantle clock. Do you know what this is? I am asking this because I am in need of the suspension spring but get the part without know the movement. HMM.
I don't know to what extent you took it apart so its difficult to answer the question, If you are having trouble I suggest you find a local clocksmith in your area and maybe take it too his shop or ask for a house call.
Hello Tony! I have Hovard Miller clock "Barwick" model # 4993 What kind pendulum spring suspension do I need There are triple chime key wind mowement. Thank You.
Hi Tony. I'm attempting a complete dismantle and service of a very 'cheap' old 1930 clock. No value, just a first timer's learning project for me. I understand reasoning behind the different 'clock' and 'turret' oils but can you tell me what is best for lubrication of the mainspring. Thought something like petroleum jelly as its much lighter than grease but will go with any suggestions you have. Cheers, David
Hi Tony, my mechanism looks like it is a bit sticky. I removed the pendulum ratchet to one side that governs the time and watched the mechanism start up un governed by the pendulum so I would expect the hands on the clock to whizz around. What happened is that it took a while to get up to speed, maybe a second or too, a definite lag, now this might be normal? But wanted to check first before I lubricate the arbour oil recesses like you describe in this book and was wondering if it was just lack of lubricating or maybe there may be residue or even rust on the arbor faces? I think the clock was built in the 1930s and I bought it from an antique shop about five years ago. I always had difficulty getting it to start. So think it probably hasn't been serviced for many many years.
The thing not shown here.... people use lighter fluid (the kind for a zippo lighter) to REMOVE all the sticky stuff which is actually the ORIGINAL oil which turns bad and goes sticky. You can also use kerosene but make sure it's ALL out and dry, wiped, blown out with an air compressor, dried out with a hairdrier, whatever. But once ALL stickiness and old oil is gone THEN it's oiled again. This is an IMPORTANT step which is missed here. Otherwise you're just adding oil to an existing mess....
I have a Sopra wall clock with a pendulum. The clock belonged to my parents who are both deceased. The pendulum was removed before packing the clock. I can not reattach the pendulum. They purchased the clock in Germany in the late 70’s. It was old when they got it but I have no idea how old it is. Any help would be appreciated.
Maybe because he's not wearing latex gloves while handling brass like he says on his ticktocktony website, or maybe because he didn't clean the movement first.
Yes ! and you gave me some more - As my English is rather poor - especially when I hear - I have some problem to catch every word even if I have caught the meaning. shaft, bushing, and as extra - contaminates - which in my dictionary is only as a verb;)). I'm lazy - I heard "bush" ! but I didn't check as I was sure it isn't same as "small tree" - it is. Why in English you have one word for so many things ;(
@@globin3477 WD-40 is a terrific penetrant and, if your movement is old ,rusty or extremely greasy then , yes, use WD-40 to disassemble, free or clean everything up. But WD-40 evaporates very quickly (in hours) and provides little, if any ,lubrication. Good clock oil is very, very expensive and you can Google “clock oil alternatives” and see what comes up. Another option would be ,if you can remove the movement yourself and take it to your local repair shop, the clock repair person MIGHT oil it up for you. I say “might” because all those repair folks LOVE to do the work on the movements themselves and they want to hear them running.
I took apart and put back together a hermle 351 - 031 movement could you please tell me or SHOW me a pic or drawing on EXACTLY" how the front should be/appear/ to function properly,(all the hardware as it should be), I usually take it to a clock repairer,( eddie takianor something of that kind of name IN ORANGE, CA,), Then I asked the "OC CLOCKMAKER", he said he'd get back to me "on you-tube" but he never did even after I called him and left a message.........please help. thank you. A BUDDING CLOCKMAKER/REPAIRER
Why would you ever show how to oil a movement without properly cleaning it first? All you did was make a liquid abrasive that will eat into the plate and create major problems.
This was both informative and encouraging. I was able to remove the clock mechanicals, find and oil the places described and successfully reassemble. Really well done.
Never oiled a clock before. Your video was extremely helpful. Thank you.
Hello Tony,
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us on this matter. I appreciate it very much, and may God bless you!
Saved this video so Ill know what to do in 2 years. Thank you!
Make sure that you ALSO CLEAN it out with zippo lighter fluid or kerosene BEFORE you do this. The entire point is to clean out the old sticky/waxy oil FIRST, blow out the kerosene or lighter fluid with an air compressor, wipe everything out, DRY put the oil lighter fluid with heat if you need to (hair drier). THEN oil it. Adding more new oil to an existing mess of stickiness and dust is a bad idea.
Many thanks for this simple, clear, description.
On your ticktocktony website you say to wear latex gloves to protect the brass. Why no gloves here? "The first step in oiling or servicing your Grandfather clock is to make sure you use latex gloves when handling any brass or metal parts. at every stage. There is acid in the oils of our fingers and this acid eats through the thin layer of lacquer when it comes in contact with brass."
Thank you Tony.Thank you soo much.
People should also know that you must not oil the gears. The gears are made to work without lubrication (brass against brass). If you oil or grease the gears, they will attract dust and other particles, wearing them out.
Hi Tony:
What kind of oil are you using?
I meant to write "contaminant" a noun, which is something that pollutes something else, like dirt or dust in oil. A bushing is: cylindrical metal sleeve used to prevent abrasion, as a bearing. A bush is like a small tree as you stated. A shaft is like a rod, in this case it goes in the bushing. I don't know why, but here's an example: Tear. A tear will come out of your eye when you cry. I can also tear your shirt in half, two pieces. They're pronounced different but spelled the same-heteronyms.
So just one drop.Wonderful secret revealed.Thank you.
I am very political, as politics is our lives! How does politics not affect the lives of the people? It does in every way. But of course I have other interests, one of them being history, but that, for the most part, brings me back to politics! I also collect old things, and that's what brought me here, as I collect old clocks.
I'm not an expert at all, but the shaft ride in a bushing, where it rides on the oil, not on the bushing, that is if you keep it properly oiled. So there can be contaminates in the oil with no harm done because the shaft is not "grinding" the contaminate against the bushing. With the gears, I believe they are designed to touch each other, so if there's oil and particles there together, then they will act like a grinding compound, wearing the gear out. Does that make sense?
Tony, I have a 1947 Seth Thomas electric mantle clock. I took it to a clock repair shop and they replaced the movement. Though it appears new, it has a loud and constant vibrating sound to it.... Is this something that could be remedied? It chimes beautifully and keeps perfect time.
Hi Tony. Is there any particular brand of clock oil which is best to use. Cheers.
Hello Tony . I have Miller mantle clock I need to oil it but I don't know how to remove it from the case. can I oil while the mechanical inside the case?
@snogluver
If the chimes will not move at all they are probably jammed. In most cases the chimes run slow because of bearing ware. In that case oil can help but will not fix the root problem of ware.
Regards Tony
@konczalr If you have just had work done, I would surest you contact the repair shop and ask what his warrantee is.
Thanks Tony
Thx- I was about to write this question. - especially this part from where "tick-tock" is coming. - not oil at all ? Everywhere at video it is brass against brass and possibility of dust.
We just had our circa 1820 works cleaned and operational for our Grandfather clock. It worked fine for a week but now will not chime unless I move the minute hand by hand. The our clock repair guy said to put a drop of oil on the "drop paw mechanism". No clue that is. Help
Thank you Tony.
Excellent video and information....thanks.
Can you replace the pin wheel that broke
I have an old Seth Thomas Mantel clock the needs help. No model number but it says NO. 124 on the movement. There are 5 hammers, only one seems to work. When movement Tic-Tocs, it stops after a short time. From what I can see without taking it apart it looks clean.
It was moved and hasn't worked since.
Also there are 3 large "winding" openings for which I have the key. But there are also 2 small ones, for which I have no key. What are the little openings for?
Thanks
Hi Tony,
Can you oil a long case clock without removing the clock face etc??? we have a french long case clock and i would like to oil it as you illustrate in your informative video, cheers and good work. John
What about a minute hand that is stuck? I have a clock with huge sentimental value.....🥺
I hope Tony is not angry with us. I'm from Poland - as you probably know we were under occupation up to '89, and even now a lot of people think that there are the same people who rule - not as the Government, they took factories, for they had money to buy it. About real politics I have learnt at UK where I live. From "day one" I had a right to vote!, it was funny to us, when our "politician" wrote about a pothole - but it works - they work for "normal" people
Awesome. I have a movement with 503 on it and thats all. The movement is round with a single bell and is from a mantle clock. Do you know what this is? I am asking this because I am in need of the suspension spring but get the part without know the movement. HMM.
I don't know to what extent you took it apart so its difficult to answer the question, If you are having trouble I suggest you find a local clocksmith in your area and maybe take it too his shop or ask for a house call.
Hello Tony! I have Hovard Miller clock "Barwick" model # 4993 What kind pendulum spring suspension do I need There are triple chime key wind mowement. Thank You.
Great video but How do you get the movement out of the clock, and then put it back in? This is like oiling a car by taking out the engine.
how do you put it back together?
On an aleron clock, how do I get to the clock to oil it
Hi Tony. I'm attempting a complete dismantle and service of a very 'cheap' old 1930 clock. No value, just a first timer's learning project for me. I understand reasoning behind the different 'clock' and 'turret' oils but can you tell me what is best for lubrication of the mainspring. Thought something like petroleum jelly as its much lighter than grease but will go with any suggestions you have. Cheers, David
Hi Tony, my mechanism looks like it is a bit sticky. I removed the pendulum ratchet to one side that governs the time and watched the mechanism start up un governed by the pendulum so I would expect the hands on the clock to whizz around. What happened is that it took a while to get up to speed, maybe a second or too, a definite lag, now this might be normal? But wanted to check first before I lubricate the arbour oil recesses like you describe in this book and was wondering if it was just lack of lubricating or maybe there may be residue or even rust on the arbor faces? I think the clock was built in the 1930s and I bought it from an antique shop about five years ago. I always had difficulty getting it to start. So think it probably hasn't been serviced for many many years.
The thing not shown here.... people use lighter fluid (the kind for a zippo lighter) to REMOVE all the sticky stuff which is actually the ORIGINAL oil which turns bad and goes sticky. You can also use kerosene but make sure it's ALL out and dry, wiped, blown out with an air compressor, dried out with a hairdrier, whatever. But once ALL stickiness and old oil is gone THEN it's oiled again. This is an IMPORTANT step which is missed here. Otherwise you're just adding oil to an existing mess....
@@OffGridInvestor thank,you,for your feedback
Tony, is it one drop for maintenance or is it always one drop like after a cleaning?
Hi Dee its one drop and the clock needs oiling every 2 yrs
Thanks!
I have a Sopra wall clock with a pendulum. The clock belonged to my parents who are both deceased. The pendulum was removed before packing the clock. I can not reattach the pendulum. They purchased the clock in Germany in the late 70’s. It was old when they got it but I have no idea how old it is. Any help would be appreciated.
There are hundreds of different designs, so its not possible for me to give instructions vis email. I suggest you call a local ClockSmith.
Never use grease. The product I use is called "Keystone Mainspring Lubricant" You can buy it from Mile High Clock Supplies.(303) 469-1220
this should be called "how to create a grinding paste from dried up oil and dust". you will soon need major re bushing,
Hello tony or anyone with knowledge. I just came into possession this same exact clock, and i am trying to determine age and maker. Any help?
Hi Maker is indicated on the dial. For 200years clockmakers made clocks to the standard pattern. IE they all look the same.
I am a competitor from Texas, your post was very good. What I don't understand is how 33 knuckle heads gave you a down vote?
Because he didn't show cleaning put the old oil I would guess. Otherwise I agree. He's shown a good job here.
Maybe because he's not wearing latex gloves while handling brass like he says on his ticktocktony website, or maybe because he didn't clean the movement first.
That movement is sure to end up with fingerprint etchings on the brass..
Yes ! and you gave me some more - As my English is rather poor - especially when I hear - I have some problem to catch every word even if I have caught the meaning. shaft, bushing, and as extra - contaminates - which in my dictionary is only as a verb;)). I'm lazy - I heard "bush" ! but I didn't check as I was sure it isn't same as "small tree" - it is. Why in English you have one word for so many things ;(
Can u use WD 40 to oil clocks
NO NO NO NO NO NO DON'T DO IT ??????????????????????
Why not, and what should you use?
@@globin3477 WD-40 is a terrific penetrant and, if your movement is old ,rusty or extremely greasy then , yes, use WD-40 to disassemble, free or clean everything up. But WD-40 evaporates very quickly (in hours) and provides little, if any ,lubrication. Good clock oil is very, very expensive and you can Google “clock oil alternatives” and see what comes up. Another option would be ,if you can remove the movement yourself and take it to your local repair shop, the clock repair person MIGHT oil it up for you. I say “might” because all those repair folks LOVE to do the work on the movements themselves and they want to hear them running.
I use nano oil
💓💞💓💓💓💓💓🌹👍😍
Wow ! I want you to be my neighbour;)
I hope we would to speak not only about politics (I checked your YT-site).
i soaked an old rust alarm clock in WD40 and now it runs great.
I took apart and put back together a hermle 351 - 031 movement could you please tell me or SHOW me a pic or drawing on EXACTLY" how the front should be/appear/ to function properly,(all the hardware as it should be), I usually take it to a clock repairer,( eddie takianor something of that kind of name IN ORANGE, CA,), Then I asked the "OC CLOCKMAKER", he said he'd get back to me "on you-tube" but he never did even after I called him and left a message.........please help. thank you. A BUDDING CLOCKMAKER/REPAIRER
Why would you ever show how to oil a movement without properly cleaning it first? All you did was make a liquid abrasive that will eat into the plate and create major problems.