Great idea on installing two return pumps. I have had the worst luck with DC pumps I installed a new DC pump on my tank one month before going on a week long vacation and the pump failed on me 3 days into my vacation. The circulation pumps were the only thing that kept my tank alive for 4 days.I was lucky a good friend of mine came over and topped off the tank to prevent the salinity form going sky high. I replaced that DC pump with a Sicce 4.0 and haven’t had any problems, so far since I replaced it one year ago.
I've got a Jager that I have had for over ten years, and running for about 7. It still works great. I do have it hooked up through an old school Ranco dual stage temp controller. Those things are bullet proof also. Although really large for what they do.
i love how important flow is in reef tanks, i could most likely walk away from my planted aquarium for 2 weeks without flow and it would be fine. But then again that is pretty logical because the plants control pretty much all the nutrients. I can't wait to start my own reef tank though when i have enough money.
So glad you went with Neotherms. Hands down the best heater I have ever owned. It's low profile and color blend perfectly with the background of my sumpless 40b. Please don't go bare bottom. A sandbed, even if extremely shallow still looks more natutal.
Have not watched the Visio yet but I have liked because I know it’s going to be great 👍thank you for being so informative to new and established reefers
I am in the middle a new 100gal build and I am justifying and embracing the dual returns by using 1 dedicated return to the display at 10x turnover from the return chamber and another to power a manifold for external skimmer, reactors, etc from the skimmer chamber that will tie into the return lines after a shut off valve. Both pumps can operate at the same time and 1 pump can operate the entire system if needed during emergency or service. I’m holding out for the COR-20s
I'm thinking about purchasing one of the eshopps eclipse overflows, but their seems to be a lot of mixed reviews about how to properly install the gaskets. Eshopps released their own video but that even has mixed reviews in the comments and contradicts their own installation guide. How would you recommend it to be installed to insure a leak free overflow?
Great video however I don't see any details around how you plumbed a dual return pump. Did you have multiple lines up to the tank for return or one line that you use the Y with?
@@BRStv Yeah that is what it seems based on some short clips in the video. However no there was no mention of it in the video so I wasn't sure. I am looking to purchase something like a Red Sea Reefer that is already plumed with one return. Do you think a would Y work in that scenario? Seems like yes based on some reef2reef threads assuming check valves are installed between the pump and before the Y it should work. The check valves are needed to ensure after a pump failure water doesn't flow back down the Y through the dead pump.
I have a few new Jebeo dc-6000's sitting in the closet for the exact reason. Not my first choice, but a very cheap backup until I can get something else. Great Video
Great information as always! I would say to use dead rock, using your bleaching method with live sand, and get fish and inverts that do most of the work for you in the sand.
I'd use sand in these tanks, but I'd also keep sand sifting fish and inverts to do the work for you. Sand is great for live bacteria which will help with the stability, but it also looks great.
Yes I always prefer less than 1" of sand, and lots of sand stirrers. And the more food particles you can keep in the water, the more the stirrers will thrive.
As always very interesting and informative. My tank is all hard plumbed with only flex tubing for the duo pumps (guess I was ahead of the curve there). As far as heater I run 4 100W Eheim Jagers, found it the best way to go because it's unlike all 4 will fail at the same time.
I have heard you go over the two dual heater methods, but it have never mentioned combining the two ideas. Would it not make since to use three heaters all undersized, and one set to the fail safe temperature. That way if one fails on you are safe, and if one fails off your backup will maintain the lower temp in conjunction with the second primary.
I believe most pump manufacturers suggest that you do not have any 90 degree bends in your pipework at the pump input when used in an external configuration as it could restrict flow and hinder the performance of the pump. Does Neptune provide that guidance for their COR pumps?
If you are using two pumps, what stops the water from back siphoning past the broken pump when it quits? You say the check valves are optional, but they seem required.
Ive seen alot of people complaining with the Cobalt heaters saying the fail all the time ect but I always here the titanium heaters are a fantastic heater. The ink bird has a metal probe so that's a risk of rusting?
Nice vid. Good info with reasonable budget options. Now I wish BRS shipped to Japan. Some brands can’t be found here. Though some are slowly popping up. No Triton system base elementz... but the testing can be bought here at some select online shops.
There are mixed reviews on the VarioS line of pumps, Can you confirm their reliability? I was looking into the VarioS 6 for my 60g cube. Some have left reviews commenting that they're loud, and some said unreliable. I don't want to invest in something I'll be replacing soon after installing.
Can you provide a schematic for how you plumbed it. I purchased the Pentair 50w HO. I am running two Varios 8 pumps in my Synergy Reef sump. I am also considering adding a second UVS so I can deal address both algae and Proto issues. Any help is appreciated.
I feel the goal of this series has shifted from low maintenance to high reliability. Since when is doubling heaters, doubling return pumps, adding lots of unions and ball valves ever reduce the amount of work to maintain and keep them clean and running their best?
great review its real help for me there is any video or explanation for setup reactor where i plumb it the inlet after sump ?before sump??the out is to the sump or ?for the return pump
I have always used dry rocks to start my reef tanks because once it matures its live rock, and it costs half the price of live rock depending on what type is used, also not pests or bad algae. I have always used a little bit deeper of a sand bed mostly because it looks good and can hold a lot of bacteria, although this option isn't the best for a ULM because it requires some maintenance. I would go with pukani dry rock and an inch or two of caribsea aragonite reef sand.
Ryan, You mentioned how accurate the Cobalt Heater is and how it maintains a consistent temperature, unlike my JBJ with digital controller. Do you still recommend using the inkbird with the Cobalt? I will use my current JBJ as the backup.
Yes, Ryan mentioned the Inkbird should be used instead of thermometers cheap on-board thermostats but states how consistent the Cobalts built in thermostat is. Should I still get an Inkbird for the Cobalt or use the internal thermostat?
I copied the bean animal style from Joey Mullen a few years ago and it’s absolutely fantastic, and worry free. I didn’t know it was called the bean animal style though, thanks!
External pumps are most typically used in situations where head pressure is an issue. Most commonly, in situations where the sump is in the basement and the display is a full floor above.
I wonder how you keep two purple tangs in the tank behind you, I have a yellow tang and I just put a CBB and this yellow tang is going crazy with the CBB
@@BRStv thank so much for the info and replies it means alot that you can actually ask questions and get a response, no wonder you guys are so successful, thank you so much for everything and wish you all the best!
Boy do I feel bad about my tank set up now.... In Brisbane Australia, and probably most of Australia, we have to have chillers. I have a second pump next to the return pump that pumps through the chiller and this returns back the start of the sump. If the return pump fails I still have circulation in the sump. Also, if I'm doing something that requires me to shut off the return pump - killing aiptasia - I still have water going through the sump. I also use this pump for sump maintenance. And if the return pump fails I still have circulation pumps in the tank running.
I know this series is older, so my comment may not mean much, but thank you for all of this! Also, I wish I had unlimited budget like this to build an amaze-balls tank, the plumbing alone gave me a chubby! Lol
This series is great although I think it is leaning more toward ultra reliable tanks rather than ultra low maintenance which is fine by me... I vote for Carib sea liferock for atleast one of the tanks I just picked up 140lbs mixed with regular, base, and shapes on Black Friday and this stuff looks great... would love to see brs have success with it and more importantly find the best matching aquascape putty for me lol
I drive an f150 platinum bud and wouldn’t fit in either one of those cars lol I don’t really get the comparison. I personally rather see ultra reliable with automation making maintenance minimal. The bottom line is two return pumps is reliable and worry free especially with an apex notifying you if either stop working... but it is double the pumps to “maintain”. So unless your saying ulm = double the equipment to maintain you really have no arguement that makes sense here. Either way I think it is more beneficial to see multiple tanks with different equipment running to see what is absolutely beneficial and what isn’t so much and what is worth your time to maintain and what isn’t.
Usually those folks that are "tumbling" their macro algae will use a powerhead. That said, it's not necessary to tumble chaeto. The chaeto in almost all of our tanks at the BRS office do not rotate like this, especially when the algae mass gets large.
How many episodes do you think will be in this series? I need to know this, so I have an idea of when I’ll be able to start getting everything for a new ULM tank!! 😂 Thanks
What about Eheim return pumps? Read they been rock solid for several years of me researching the hobby. Not sure if its been mentioned. I got a 3 year old to get ready for game day so I dont have time to read thru comments. 😨
The Neptune System looks great! But quite expensive for me.. if you calculate the total cost plus taxes currency exchange and sending to my country umm too much lol not to mention that the system will not fit the electricity requirements and wall socket style .. Or that there is a European version
@@BRStv Yes, I know you do not ship to Europe... but your channel is very interesting, a lot of information, only recently I discovered it and I've watched dozens of videos. I was amazed to see you have videos 8 and 9 years ago and only recently discovered it. I am not new to saltwater Aquariums, but in my opinion there is no such thing as too much information or knowledge :)
1-1.5 inch live sand bed and do like pukani for all the surface area and recently I️ have gotten hooked on dr Tim’s nitrifying bacteria so put that in also
So im want to get myself the red sea reefer nano which is around 70 litres (20g) and i need a return pump which pushes water up around 1.20m. I wanted to get a sicca pump but i dont know which version is strong enough. Can someone help me out?
I'd suggest shooting for something in the 500-600 GPH range. The Sicce 2.0 would be a great choice! www.bulkreefsupply.com/sicce-syncra-silent-2-0-pump-568-gph.html
I dont understand why return flow is so important. If my return pump stops working the only thing that will happen is, water wont be skimmed, Ato would stop, but really the flow in the tank and the heat would both still be working. So all this redundancy seems unnecessary to me. Unless its summer time and you chiller needs to be on.
Most reefers also keep their heaters in the sump, so depending on the length of time needed to get to the tank and fix the issue, it could be a major problem for the tank. If you keep your heater in the display, it's almost certainly less of an issue.
BulkReefSupplyCom Thanks for getting back to me! It can be that I’m watching it on the phone and that’s why it seems funny. I thought a greenish-whitish patch is visible when Ryan is talking in front of the tank (for example when introducing himself), just in the middle under the overflow box, at the back (on top of the sand?) sorry if being wrong and also thank you guys for all the great videos! Really appreciate them and they are a big plus for the hobby! Keep up the great work!
You need to make a way for canadians to win the free stuff, ill pay duties taxes and fees on a free item lol. As a newer reefer with aquascaping being my next task it seems to me that having a man made rock (reef rock 2.1)would be ULM, low cure time, looks good, easy to work with, hitchhiker free. make the cost back in not having to run a curing setup for months, heating and mixing and changing water.
Christian Viernes generally speaking if it is safe for human consumption (“food grade” like drinking water pipes) it is usually safe for aquariums... always avoid stuff like silicone with antimold agents etc... but to answer your question all pvc cement is safe for aquariums you choose it based on material being bonded to each other with the most worry being avoiding leaks and three major steps not to forget are no burs in pipe (burs can create pockets in the joint which can cause leaks or early failure), primer first(this actually gives you your water tight bond), then cement(aka glue which really serves as a filler to ensure the joint is completely sealed). You can really use whatever you want I prefer weld on p-68 clear primer and weld on 705 clear cement this combo creates a clean install and I can insure you that when used properly is aquarium safe (ie do not dump directly into your tank)
Hello. On drain lines. Do you glue them on or union? I'm planning a 90 gallon tank with 1 inch bulkheads. Same with the return. Hose to connect the pump with a hose to the pvc?
You can have a quick look at these two, now of course there are more technical advanced equipment but this will give you an idea.www.matsmatsmats.com/commercial-industrial/heated/heated-snow-melting-mat.htmlwww.exergyllc.com/sanitary-tube-in-tube-heat-exchangers.html
CUBAN REEFER I was always told 3 to 5 watts per gallon to heat an aquarium 3 gives you a starting point and increase if needed you really just want to avoid having something to overpowered(the idea is if it did fail in the on position it wouldn’t raise the temp super fast giving you a chance to notice the issue) but if you have redundantcies in place it probably won’t matter all that much
Matthew Gordon Thank you! Never knew how many gallons per watts, at this point I don’t have a heater in my tank, am here in Miami and my temperature fluctuate between 77 and 79, I don’t think that I need one , but I want it to know to see if I can eliminate the fluctuation and keep it steady. Thank you!
No problem... yeah you could probably eliminate the downward swing and run the tank at 79 with a heater and maybe a controller but a lot of heaters will fluctuate a degree or so anyways so you may have nothing to worry about but never hurts to have piece of mind and have it ready to go if you did end up needing one sometime in the future
Dude...I don't like being a troll but comments like this is what keeps so many people away from reef keeping. The vast majority of reefers are not spending $2,400 a year on their tanks....at least I am not. Not including initial setup and electrical costs, simple BRS 2 part, some salt, and some supplements are not going to cost $200/mo. My wife would kill me if I ever got to that number. In my opinion reefers, especially those that are new, that follow the KISS philosophy are the most successful.
My monthly budget changes, its not often I have 200-250 a month to spend on the tank. I saved my money for over a year and sold things I no longer needed to fund my current tank.
I’m 15 without a stable job (I do odd jobs and yard work rather than being hired since everywhere I try wants 16 or 18) and by using that money plus what I get for Christmas and my birthday I’ve been able to run a 46 gallon tank full of a variety of corals including some middle end Acropora for about a year and am currently in the process of upgrading to a 90G. Just do your research and find the perfect balance of quality and price for what you want. For example ReefKeeper Lite/Elite over the Apex, has all the basic life saving functions as an Apex but a little less fancy and half the price. If you have any questions finding budget equipment I’d be happy to help, I love talking about equipment and the care of our animals 😊
Anthony Murphy I feel ya the cost factor can be daunting. If you're still in set up phase please hang in there. I been in set up phase for 12 years! Now finally got a house a decent tank and space for my first reef tank. My point is patience is your friend. My tank isnt even filled and i dont plan on putting in fish until summer maybe longer. Because guess what I cant afford a proper sump or lights yet! Plus more importantly gotta let that pukani cycle real good.
Great idea on installing two return pumps. I have had the worst luck with DC pumps I installed a new DC pump on my tank one month before going on a week long vacation and the pump failed on me 3 days into my vacation. The circulation pumps were the only thing that kept my tank alive for 4 days.I was lucky a good friend of mine came over and topped off the tank to prevent the salinity form going sky high. I replaced that DC pump with a Sicce 4.0 and haven’t had any problems, so far since I replaced it one year ago.
I've got a Jager that I have had for over ten years, and running for about 7. It still works great. I do have it hooked up through an old school Ranco dual stage temp controller. Those things are bullet proof also. Although really large for what they do.
I love this build. I am building my first reef set now and this series of vid is opening my eyes a lot
i love how important flow is in reef tanks, i could most likely walk away from my planted aquarium for 2 weeks without flow and it would be fine. But then again that is pretty logical because the plants control pretty much all the nutrients. I can't wait to start my own reef tank though when i have enough money.
Wow that plumbing is artwork
So glad you went with Neotherms. Hands down the best heater I have ever owned. It's low profile and color blend perfectly with the background of my sumpless 40b. Please don't go bare bottom. A sandbed, even if extremely shallow still looks more natutal.
Have not watched the Visio yet but I have liked because I know it’s going to be great 👍thank you for being so informative to new and established reefers
I am in the middle a new 100gal build and I am justifying and embracing the dual returns by using 1 dedicated return to the display at 10x turnover from the return chamber and another to power a manifold for external skimmer, reactors, etc from the skimmer chamber that will tie into the return lines after a shut off valve. Both pumps can operate at the same time and 1 pump can operate the entire system if needed during emergency or service. I’m holding out for the COR-20s
I'm thinking about purchasing one of the eshopps eclipse overflows, but their seems to be a lot of mixed reviews about how to properly install the gaskets. Eshopps released their own video but that even has mixed reviews in the comments and contradicts their own installation guide. How would you recommend it to be installed to insure a leak free overflow?
Awesome video. Watching this series with interest
Great video however I don't see any details around how you plumbed a dual return pump. Did you have multiple lines up to the tank for return or one line that you use the Y with?
@@BRStv Yeah that is what it seems based on some short clips in the video. However no there was no mention of it in the video so I wasn't sure. I am looking to purchase something like a Red Sea Reefer that is already plumed with one return. Do you think a would Y work in that scenario? Seems like yes based on some reef2reef threads assuming check valves are installed between the pump and before the Y it should work. The check valves are needed to ensure after a pump failure water doesn't flow back down the Y through the dead pump.
I have a few new Jebeo dc-6000's sitting in the closet for the exact reason. Not my first choice, but a very cheap backup until I can get something else. Great Video
Great information as always! I would say to use dead rock, using your bleaching method with live sand, and get fish and inverts that do most of the work for you in the sand.
I'd use sand in these tanks, but I'd also keep sand sifting fish and inverts to do the work for you. Sand is great for live bacteria which will help with the stability, but it also looks great.
Yes I always prefer less than 1" of sand, and lots of sand stirrers. And the more food particles you can keep in the water, the more the stirrers will thrive.
Excellent as always Ryan
As always very interesting and informative. My tank is all hard plumbed with only flex tubing for the duo pumps (guess I was ahead of the curve there). As far as heater I run 4 100W Eheim Jagers, found it the best way to go because it's unlike all 4 will fail at the same time.
Thank y’all for all the information on reefing. Without BRS I would still be lost trying to read saltwater fish for dumbys
I have heard you go over the two dual heater methods, but it have never mentioned combining the two ideas. Would it not make since to use three heaters all undersized, and one set to the fail safe temperature. That way if one fails on you are safe, and if one fails off your backup will maintain the lower temp in conjunction with the second primary.
The finnex heater controllers you show have worked great for me. Inexpensive and reliable
I believe most pump manufacturers suggest that you do not have any 90 degree bends in your pipework at the pump input when used in an external configuration as it could restrict flow and hinder the performance of the pump. Does Neptune provide that guidance for their COR pumps?
If you are using two pumps, what stops the water from back siphoning past the broken pump when it quits? You say the check valves are optional, but they seem required.
I know it hasn't been a long time frame, but just wondering if there has been any problems with the COR pump so far?
Ive seen alot of people complaining with the Cobalt heaters saying the fail all the time ect but I always here the titanium heaters are a fantastic heater. The ink bird has a metal probe so that's a risk of rusting?
Nice vid. Good info with reasonable budget options. Now I wish BRS shipped to Japan. Some brands can’t be found here. Though some are slowly popping up. No Triton system base elementz... but the testing can be bought here at some select online shops.
There are mixed reviews on the VarioS line of pumps, Can you confirm their reliability? I was looking into the VarioS 6 for my 60g cube. Some have left reviews commenting that they're loud, and some said unreliable. I don't want to invest in something I'll be replacing soon after installing.
I've noticed this on a lot of your hard plumbed tanks, what is that Y connector that is capped off for? See at 5:19 for an example.
What Bulkhead and 90 elbow combo did you use here? mine is sticking out too far behind the tank
Easy maintenance, when the pump is behind the sump next to the wall, good luck.
Can you provide a schematic for how you plumbed it. I purchased the Pentair 50w HO. I am running two Varios 8 pumps in my Synergy Reef sump. I am also considering adding a second UVS so I can deal address both algae and Proto issues. Any help is appreciated.
I feel the goal of this series has shifted from low maintenance to high reliability. Since when is doubling heaters, doubling return pumps, adding lots of unions and ball valves ever reduce the amount of work to maintain and keep them clean and running their best?
The idea is to be able to safely leave the tank for up to a month at a time. But I see what your saying.
great review its real help for me
there is any video or explanation for setup reactor where i plumb it the inlet after sump ?before sump??the out is to the sump or ?for the return pump
I think the $35 inkbird heater controller is the best way to go to help extend heater life and provide accuracy and longevity.
I have always used dry rocks to start my reef tanks because once it matures its live rock, and it costs half the price of live rock depending on what type is used, also not pests or bad algae. I have always used a little bit deeper of a sand bed mostly because it looks good and can hold a lot of bacteria, although this option isn't the best for a ULM because it requires some maintenance. I would go with pukani dry rock and an inch or two of caribsea aragonite reef sand.
Ryan, You mentioned how accurate the Cobalt Heater is and how it maintains a consistent temperature, unlike my JBJ with digital controller. Do you still recommend using the inkbird with the Cobalt? I will use my current JBJ as the backup.
Yes, Ryan mentioned the Inkbird should be used instead of thermometers cheap on-board thermostats but states how consistent the Cobalts built in thermostat is. Should I still get an Inkbird for the Cobalt or use the internal thermostat?
My comment made it in!!! Loving this build, one of BRS’s best. 😊
I know this is from 2017 but I have a hygger 300watt controllable heater its super accurate
I copied the bean animal style from Joey Mullen a few years ago and it’s absolutely fantastic, and worry free. I didn’t know it was called the bean animal style though, thanks!
Can you start a running tally of the cost of each tank? I think that would be an interesting additional metric to factor in.
Would there be any benefits to using a external water pump to an in tank pump?
External pumps are most typically used in situations where head pressure is an issue. Most commonly, in situations where the sump is in the basement and the display is a full floor above.
ryan dude love watching your videos keep up the good work bro
Is the marineland cube glass panels are not tempered? Or it is just the back panel?
I wonder how you keep two purple tangs in the tank behind you, I have a yellow tang and I just put a CBB and this yellow tang is going crazy with the CBB
The one of the cobalt heaters caught fire in Joey Mullan’s tank, killing his rays.
Are the return bulkheads threaded or slip?
How does the failure of one of the two return pumps affect the bean animal siphon flow rate and water level of the DT and/or sump?
What size of Sicce pumps where you guys using in the 60 cube, I'm doing the same build!
We used two Sicce Syncra 2.0 pumps.
www.bulkreefsupply.com/sicce-syncra-silent-2-0-pump-568-gph.html
@@BRStv hey thanks for the reply! What did you guys figure the gph was after head pressure?
@@BRStv also was wondering of it was 1" pvc or 3/4 plumbing
@@alexanderlucas9634 We estimated about 5-600 GPH after head pressure was factored in. 3/4" size PVC for the returns.
@@BRStv thank so much for the info and replies it means alot that you can actually ask questions and get a response, no wonder you guys are so successful, thank you so much for everything and wish you all the best!
whats the best metrial in market for soft plumbing?
For return lines, we like to use silicone tubing. For drains, vinyl tubing works best because it's less likely to kink.
Boy do I feel bad about my tank set up now.... In Brisbane Australia, and probably most of Australia, we have to have chillers. I have a second pump next to the return pump that pumps through the chiller and this returns back the start of the sump. If the return pump fails I still have circulation in the sump. Also, if I'm doing something that requires me to shut off the return pump - killing aiptasia - I still have water going through the sump. I also use this pump for sump maintenance. And if the return pump fails I still have circulation pumps in the tank running.
I know this series is older, so my comment may not mean much, but thank you for all of this!
Also, I wish I had unlimited budget like this to build an amaze-balls tank, the plumbing alone gave me a chubby! Lol
This series is great although I think it is leaning more toward ultra reliable tanks rather than ultra low maintenance which is fine by me... I vote for Carib sea liferock for atleast one of the tanks I just picked up 140lbs mixed with regular, base, and shapes on Black Friday and this stuff looks great... would love to see brs have success with it and more importantly find the best matching aquascape putty for me lol
Matthew Gordon Reliability is to a degree the lack of a need of maintenance. Think Toyota Corolla or Honda Civic
I drive an f150 platinum bud and wouldn’t fit in either one of those cars lol I don’t really get the comparison. I personally rather see ultra reliable with automation making maintenance minimal. The bottom line is two return pumps is reliable and worry free especially with an apex notifying you if either stop working... but it is double the pumps to “maintain”. So unless your saying ulm = double the equipment to maintain you really have no arguement that makes sense here. Either way I think it is more beneficial to see multiple tanks with different equipment running to see what is absolutely beneficial and what isn’t so much and what is worth your time to maintain and what isn’t.
So much great info! Thank you!
So desperate for a COR pump! I'm not a resident of the USA :( If I was I'd make your most loyal customer list. Great video.
Actinic Aquarium I wouldn’t be in this hobby if it wasn’t for Ryan and his team. I’d of lost the confidence by now.
Why did you not paint the back of the tanks or are you not finished?
Ray's Reefing what’s the point of that?
To not see all the plumbing!
Ok, Good deal!
Great video very helpful
Man you've got to show how you set up the chateo turning like a tumble weed. In the refuge
Usually those folks that are "tumbling" their macro algae will use a powerhead. That said, it's not necessary to tumble chaeto. The chaeto in almost all of our tanks at the BRS office do not rotate like this, especially when the algae mass gets large.
How many episodes do you think will be in this series? I need to know this, so I have an idea of when I’ll be able to start getting everything for a new ULM tank!! 😂 Thanks
Is it possible to properly plumb two pumps into a tank that only has one return? (ex:120g SCAquarium)
Womp womp
What about Eheim return pumps? Read they been rock solid for several years of me researching the hobby. Not sure if its been mentioned. I got a 3 year old to get ready for game day so I dont have time to read thru comments. 😨
My last eheims lasted many years.
The Neptune System looks great! But quite expensive for me.. if you calculate the total cost plus taxes currency exchange and sending to my country umm too much lol not to mention that the system will not fit the electricity requirements and wall socket style .. Or that there is a European version
@@BRStv Yes, I know you do not ship to Europe... but your channel is very interesting, a lot of information, only recently I discovered it and I've watched dozens of videos. I was amazed to see you have videos 8 and 9 years ago and only recently discovered it. I am not new to saltwater Aquariums, but in my opinion there is no such thing as too much information or knowledge :)
Reef Octopus 🐙 DC pump or Ecotech M1 or Neptune?
1-1.5 inch live sand bed and do like pukani for all the surface area and recently I️ have gotten hooked on dr Tim’s nitrifying bacteria so put that in also
you can service one pump while the other is in service and vice versa
NEPTUNE took a long time to bring out the COR, I hope it’s worth the wait.
The inkbird controller is not waterproof, at least the probe is not. it is not supposed to be. i wasted a few of them.
Live sand and live rock for a easy stable cycle. Which is what I wished I did rather then dry sand and Marco rock.
So im want to get myself the red sea reefer nano which is around 70 litres (20g) and i need a return pump which pushes water up around 1.20m. I wanted to get a sicca pump but i dont know which version is strong enough. Can someone help me out?
I'd suggest shooting for something in the 500-600 GPH range. The Sicce 2.0 would be a great choice!
www.bulkreefsupply.com/sicce-syncra-silent-2-0-pump-568-gph.html
I’ve got to put my finnex heater to 82 for it to be 77-78 lol
I dont understand why return flow is so important. If my return pump stops working the only thing that will happen is, water wont be skimmed, Ato would stop, but really the flow in the tank and the heat would both still be working. So all this redundancy seems unnecessary to me. Unless its summer time and you chiller needs to be on.
Most reefers also keep their heaters in the sump, so depending on the length of time needed to get to the tank and fix the issue, it could be a major problem for the tank. If you keep your heater in the display, it's almost certainly less of an issue.
What happened to the brs160 tank? Why does it have an algae bloom?
BulkReefSupplyCom Thanks for getting back to me! It can be that I’m watching it on the phone and that’s why it seems funny. I thought a greenish-whitish patch is visible when Ryan is talking in front of the tank (for example when introducing himself), just in the middle under the overflow box, at the back (on top of the sand?) sorry if being wrong and also thank you guys for all the great videos! Really appreciate them and they are a big plus for the hobby! Keep up the great work!
can someone enplane why bean animal less maintenance as compare to Herbie ?
Good effort
I love your Videos even if im a freshwater guy.
But why do i have to be in the usa to win cool stuff ?
You need to make a way for canadians to win the free stuff, ill pay duties taxes and fees on a free item lol.
As a newer reefer with aquascaping being my next task it seems to me that having a man made rock (reef rock 2.1)would be ULM, low cure time, looks good, easy to work with, hitchhiker free. make the cost back in not having to run a curing setup for months, heating and mixing and changing water.
Question when plumbing with pvc: is regular pvc glue aquarium safe or is there an aquarium safe option?
Christian Viernes generally speaking if it is safe for human consumption (“food grade” like drinking water pipes) it is usually safe for aquariums... always avoid stuff like silicone with antimold agents etc... but to answer your question all pvc cement is safe for aquariums you choose it based on material being bonded to each other with the most worry being avoiding leaks and three major steps not to forget are no burs in pipe (burs can create pockets in the joint which can cause leaks or early failure), primer first(this actually gives you your water tight bond), then cement(aka glue which really serves as a filler to ensure the joint is completely sealed). You can really use whatever you want I prefer weld on p-68 clear primer and weld on 705 clear cement this combo creates a clean install and I can insure you that when used properly is aquarium safe (ie do not dump directly into your tank)
Matthew Gordon
Great explanation!
awesome thank you!
1.5 inch pvc on drains and 3/4 pvc on returns??? Please confirm...
Hello. On drain lines. Do you glue them on or union? I'm planning a 90 gallon tank with 1 inch bulkheads. Same with the return. Hose to connect the pump with a hose to the pvc?
I just had to replace my return pump, in my situation 2 pumps would not of helped. My return pump keep on tripping out all of the power.
Sps tank should be bare bottom, just add a bio block in the sump to add more surface area.
I don’t like the fact I can’t enter the competition as I’m not in the USA 😟 on the plus side another good video
Sell those products baby!
thank you!!
How come we didn't talk about under tank heater mats, or heat exchangers? very reliable low maintenance not very prone to catastrophic failure.
MerkDolf never heard of this
Or 1 inch thick acrylic.
You can have a quick look at these two, now of course there are more technical advanced equipment but this will give you an idea.www.matsmatsmats.com/commercial-industrial/heated/heated-snow-melting-mat.htmlwww.exergyllc.com/sanitary-tube-in-tube-heat-exchangers.html
Does anybody specifically sell the blue and gray plumbing?
BulkReefSupplyCom what are the other gray fittings above the bulk heads?
BulkReefSupplyCom (Union Fittings) are awesome
Will that 300 watt work good in a 175 RedSea Max S-650 LED
CUBAN REEFER I was always told 3 to 5 watts per gallon to heat an aquarium 3 gives you a starting point and increase if needed you really just want to avoid having something to overpowered(the idea is if it did fail in the on position it wouldn’t raise the temp super fast giving you a chance to notice the issue) but if you have redundantcies in place it probably won’t matter all that much
Matthew Gordon Thank you!
Never knew how many gallons per watts, at this point I don’t have a heater in my tank, am here in Miami and my temperature fluctuate between 77 and 79, I don’t think that I need one , but I want it to know to see if I can eliminate the fluctuation and keep it steady.
Thank you!
No problem... yeah you could probably eliminate the downward swing and run the tank at 79 with a heater and maybe a controller but a lot of heaters will fluctuate a degree or so anyways so you may have nothing to worry about but never hurts to have piece of mind and have it ready to go if you did end up needing one sometime in the future
Jebao DCT for the win.
I want the pump!!!
You should do a build for a budget reef tank. Someone who has like $200 a month to spend.
Dude...I don't like being a troll but comments like this is what keeps so many people away from reef keeping. The vast majority of reefers are not spending $2,400 a year on their tanks....at least I am not. Not including initial setup and electrical costs, simple BRS 2 part, some salt, and some supplements are not going to cost $200/mo. My wife would kill me if I ever got to that number. In my opinion reefers, especially those that are new, that follow the KISS philosophy are the most successful.
My monthly budget changes, its not often I have 200-250 a month to spend on the tank. I saved my money for over a year and sold things I no longer needed to fund my current tank.
I’m 15 without a stable job (I do odd jobs and yard work rather than being hired since everywhere I try wants 16 or 18) and by using that money plus what I get for Christmas and my birthday I’ve been able to run a 46 gallon tank full of a variety of corals including some middle end Acropora for about a year and am currently in the process of upgrading to a 90G. Just do your research and find the perfect balance of quality and price for what you want. For example ReefKeeper Lite/Elite over the Apex, has all the basic life saving functions as an Apex but a little less fancy and half the price. If you have any questions finding budget equipment I’d be happy to help, I love talking about equipment and the care of our animals 😊
Anthony Murphy I feel ya the cost factor can be daunting. If you're still in set up phase please hang in there. I been in set up phase for 12 years! Now finally got a house a decent tank and space for my first reef tank. My point is patience is your friend. My tank isnt even filled and i dont plan on putting in fish until summer maybe longer. Because guess what I cant afford a proper sump or lights yet! Plus more importantly gotta let that pukani cycle real good.
Nice
Instead of ULM, go with SLAM Super Low Aquarium Maintienance
Gostei
No sand.