Toy haulers are great, but when you strap down 2 heavy bikes in the back "garage" area of a travel trailer, counterbalancing for proper tongue weight is critical. Rear loaded trailers are the most dangerous thing on the road. They sway and wander with the slightest provocation. Losing your trailer, bikes, truck, and maybe even your life all in one fleeting moment of terror ain't why we RV. There are hitches that measure the tongue weight, as well as control sway. Spend the money, spend the time and do it right. This is supposed to be fun.
I watched this video just before towing a travel trailer for the first time. Gotta be honest, thought it was a bit exaggerated but quickly learned you were spot on!!! Thanks for sharing!
If the axles or wheels are not aligned properly you will notice unusual wear on your tires! If you ow n and haul an RV, please read and follow your owners manual. Weights are hard for most of us to understand, but worth studying and following! A lot better than jack knifing your rig or seriously injuring yourself or family.
In addition or explanation, my brother and I have been driving professionally for over 30 years, we’ve seen and been through some interesting experiences. My brother jackknifed a set of triples on snowy road up by Idaho Falls. Not a good experience, I’ve rolled my car on the backroad to SunValley Idaho, just past Arco. Point is if you don’t follow the laws, of nature or man’s laws then there will be consequences! Some of which are very unpleasant!
OK, if you have a PU with a single axle, get air bags! And a really good weight distribution hitch. Really, the air bags drastically reduce the bouncing. Weight distribution is so important I like the Blue Ox. Simple and works for me. Whatever you use, go slow and watch your flanks. Be very mindful of windy conditions when you are approaching a field after transit through tree lined terrain. Cross winds are hell.
an 8ft deisel 2500 made an incredible difference along with a Blue Ox WD hitch. We towed the same 30ft trailer with a capable v8 SUV but the difference in tracking and "fighting" the trailer continually was amazing. We almost bought a 1500 and are very glad we stuck to the plan. Great video. Glad I've never had to manually jam the brake controller to save lives at this point.
Great explanation. I can personally attest to the effect of wheelbase. For all sorts of reasons we use an SUV as our TV, and a couple of years ago changed the TV from one with a 118" wheelbase to a 131". Our trailer and WD hitch (Blue-Ox Sway-Pro) remained unchanged (apart from height adjustments to fit to the new truck). With the old TV, driving in any kind of crosswind was a white knuckle affair, and I'd usually find myself dropping my speed to 80 km/h (50 mph). With the new TV, I can hold my speed at 100 km/h with no sway. However, you missed one critical factor: Speed. Since sway is a dynamic effect caused, in large part, by the airflow over the sides of the trailer, for any setup there is a critical speed, above which the tendency to sway will be amplified with each oscillation of the trailer. Therefore, one easy (and free) means to control sway is to slow down. A side benefit is the greatly reduced fuel consumption!
I have a Blue Ox sway max weight distribution hitch for my 35 foot tt, it helps. It does not sway so much as just pushes the whole rig slightly with a gusting cross wind. If you feel swaying coming on, 1) foot off accelerator and foot off brake if possible, 2) GENTLY squeeze the trailer brake. This will tend to stretch the trailer and truck straight. Stop sway before it starts. I have towed in some pretty nasty winds, and this helps. And go slow or stop in bad winds. I think my suspension air bladders help too. They kick down any bounce.
Very good advice. I prefer a neutral throttle or even slight acceleration rather than coasting before hitting the trailer brakes before going off throttle and on the tow vehicle brakes. Better outcomes. More control. In tow-haul mode, the downshift and compression can be just enough to lose control.
Weight distribution is a huge Factor Back when I was working for a motorcycle shop, I went about halfway across Texas pulling a 16 foot lowboy behind a half ton pickup with five big dressers and a side-by-side loaded on it Coming down this one long slow Hill the trailer started wagging the truck like you wouldn't believe Pulled over, move the side by side and two of the motorcycles further forward on the trailer, not a hint of sway the rest of the trip That's back when I was still green enough pulling trailers to pull a load like that with a half ton with a V6 🤣
Very good illustration and accurate explanation. Couldn't be better. Thanks to people like you, the internet is an incredible learning tool. Well done!
This was excellent, thank you! I just bought a 20’ Kodiak qb travel trailer that I’m pulling with my F-150. The dealer advised a weight distribution set up (it has an integrated sway control) and I wasn’t sure because it’s an additional $700. or so. However, watching your videos has convinced me and I’ve made an appointment to get it installed. Thanks again, your videos are very informative and educational.
Thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you I would say that a million more times if I had the time. I have been trying to explain this to my sister she has a travel trailer and she just bought a pickup truck she was pulling the travel trailer with her minivan and that didn't work out too well. But now she has a pickup truck and I was trying to explain the sway bars and weight distribution hitch tour and I think this video will get it through to her so again thank you so much.
Fantastic explanation of how the weight distribution hitch works. I had the basic idea but seeing the physics of it really brought the importance of setting that hitch up right
Thank you! You are my new teacher! We are just getting into looking for a trailer to pull and have a 95 4x4 k1500 suburban with no towing package other than a ball hitch. Thanks to God 20 plus years ago I hauled three horses from Nebraska to nw Illinois through a blizzard with it without incident and want to be much smarter about towing now. You bet I will be following you and again thanks for caring and educating us. 🙏🏻
A buddy of mine tried coming to my rescue when my Suburban broke down. He showed up with his newer Suburban and a flat bed trailer. Got my Suburban loaded up and proceeded to get on the Freeway. We got up to about 40mph when the trailer started swaying back and forth. He is an excellent driver and knew when to gas the truck and when not to along with knowing not to slam the brake pedal through the floor. From the trailer swaying back and forth we took up both southbound lanes and almost went through a guard rail before he was able to get everything under control and stopped. My Suburban and moved around enough that my driver side rear tire was hanging off of the trailer and the drain plug and the axle of my Suburban got stuck on one of the diamonds of the diamond plate deck of the trailer. His was the first time he had used his Suburban to tow a vehicle with and found out a couple of days later that the leaf springs on the driver's side of his Suburban were bad. This was a seriously scary experience that everyone learned from and grateful as hell that no one was hurt.
After using 2 different friction style say controls I switched to a Hensley Arrow. Not only did their hitched worked as advertised, they have the best Customer Service I have ever seen in the travel trailer accessory business. When I sold my travel trailer and went with a motor home, they bought my Hensley Arrow back from me.
Bruce Marcotte I bought a used Hensley in a private sale via e-trailers. Hensley Mfg treated me like a new customer throughout. Never had an issue with the hitch. When I quit camping after buying a 3500 dually diesel (loved that truck) Hensley bought back the hitch, all the accessories and spare parts (new in box, plus 2 sets of sway bars) at more $ than they said they would! They sent me the box to put it all in! Their Customer Service was simply GREAT throughout (three drawbar swaps). Zero issues towing with a 1500, but I must have weighed both rigs half a dozen times or so to assure myself that everything was within spec. I went for the diesel strictly for the torque - towing in the mountains - and never regretted any of it.
Thank you. I would have liked to hear more time discussing improper weight distribution on the hitch and how that causes inertial over correction between the the two body masses of the tow vehicle and the trailer. In my opinion, Wind is only a factor when it is significant. Tire alignment is a mechanical problem that occurs, but is not common. But improper weight distribution causes most of the scary and dangerous sway. That is why there are typically two systems incorporated in most camping and cargo trailer coupling systems. They are the sway control system, or braking systems that are added to weight distribution systems to limit sway, and the weight distribution system to bring the tow vehicle and the trailer into longitudinal and latitudinal alignment as a means to correct weight distribution.
I agree. Ive towed many years with both types of trailers. How the trailer is loaded front to back which produces tongue weight is really biggest factor in sway
Thank you for a great video, the sign of a good teacher is when he can explain the subject matter in a way that the general audience can understand. Unlike some of your critics who try to impress themselves with complicated remedies.
Excellent explanation and demo….it was easy to understand! As a newbie looking to possibly tow an RV in a couple of years this was extremely educational!
Excellent !! I added an additional length to my RVs back porch and hauled an atv and generator on it. This is definitely effecting sway! I’m gonna have to eliminate these I think to make a safer ride
As a Forklift driver who loaded Semi trailers, I was taught to put the heaviest part of a load ahead of the rear axles. This helps to keep the trailer from swaying, (tail wag) especially with tandem towing. I found that putting the majority of the load ahead of the axles made my camper tow better, careful not to exceed the tongue weight limits. Sway bars have improved since then.
Roy Davis general rule of thumb is 10-15% of the total weight should be tongue weight. More weight really only puts more strain on the tow vehicle but airbags or a good weight distribution hitch can alleviate most of that strain
Hi Roy I hear ya as far as weight distribution goes but I drive forklift too and only deal with lumber and MDF. Most of the loads I ship out need to be above the axles with less weight above the pins. I mainly deal with B-trains and the occasional flat deck if that matters.
Roy you have it correct. The problem with only 10% of the weight on the hitch is wind hitting the front of the trailer lifts it up, reducing tongue weight. Once the trailer starts lifting the hitch, you will sway.
@@gpecaut1 No not really unless your towing ar 120 mph stick with 10 to 12 %How do I know this Im one of the engineers that wrote the trailering guide for Chevrolet
Good explanation! An interesting aspect of the sway control is that when installed properly, the tongue weight doesn't cause your back end to squat down and front to point up! It loads the weight as if it is a bridge between the trailer and truck. Your sway control adds a substantial amount of weight to your front tires. Your trailer and truck should stay level.
I have towed with the Reese Dual Cam Sway Control system since 2003. I have had no sway problems with this set up. It locks the truck and trailer together using a cam lock. Due to mechanical advantage, the trailer can't break the connection, but the truck can whenever it makes a turn. I have towed campers from 20' to 35', and have had no detectable sway. This system really works well, and is 1/10 as expensive as the Hensley.
That is an excellent explanation of trailer sway. Also including the misalignment of the trailer tires cannot be overlooked. Many think it's only wind. Great video. Happy traveling, Lou.
I'm 26 and planning to buy a travel trailer by the end of the year and chase my acting career. I just got upgraded to a Tundra now I gotta get the trailer, there's so much to learn RV life
Great explanatory video! But i do agree that weight disbursement in the trailer is critical as well...ie like w tractor trailers...proper weight disbursement over the axels...thru the body and up to the hitch. This is always something to take into consideration for all trailering.
Excellent video. Ive been driving Class A trucks for 20 years but I've never towed a trailer with a pick up truck. I got myself a 1 ton dually because it's better to have more than you need and not need it then to not have enough. First thing I did was to install airlift in the rear. After this video I have decided to pay the extra money for the fifth wheel trailer.
If you experience sway you have a serious problem and a sway control hitch is just an attempt to compensate for that problem. Most sway issues stem from too much weight behind the trailer tires. Learn how to load your trailer properly. Also get a heavier truck. The factory weight rating of most pickup trucks are greatly exaggerated. I tow with a GMC 6500 diesel truck. I can tow 40k lbs and never feel my load.
One interesting factor with travel trailers is adding weight behind the axles of the trailer. I have heavy E bikes that I mounted on a hitch on my rockwood travel trailer. In addition ,If I have any water in my fresh tank, this weight is applied behind the axles causing a tenancy to sway. If I tighten up my sway control bars which are the blue ox system, this mitigates sway when I’m in gusty wind conditions. Also I make sure that my tanks are empty and I load my truck and trailer to counter the additional weight of the heavy bike rack. Very good video!
Big thing forgotten is tire sidewall flex. This is something nobody talks about. The sidewall flex of one set of rear LT tires with four sidewalls and a short wheelbase truck creates an angle deflection of the towing vehicle greatly exaggerated over that of a longer wheelbase truck or a dually truck with eight sidewalls. Once those tires flex and take the rear of the truck off center line your instinct is to steer into it and then the pendulum effect begins.
Ah, I finally understand: the majority of the wind "sail" area is ahead of the trailer wheels, but more importantly, ahead of the trailer's CG. This is very much like an unstable airplane. When the center of lift is ahead of the center of gravity, any perturbation is amplified until the airplane is uncontrollable. I see how load-distribution and pivot-projecting hitches fix that. Thanks!!
I have a 2500 2 wheel drive truck I pull a 25 ft travel trailer with a 16 ft boat behind the trailer and the biggest things I have learned is you have to have a good % of nose weight to you trailer and make sure all the trailers truck and boat are as level as you can get them and I have very little trouble after that.
With a 5th wheel trailer placement of the 5th wheel back and forward will control front to rear weight distribution on the truck.. Experience from 45 years of driving semi trucks..
I have 36' toy hauler bumper pull that tows with no sway when no toys are in the back , the minute i put my touring bike in the rear garage its a handful . My solution was put weight back on to the front of the trailer with 4 milk crates of concrete in the forward storage compartment . Tows great now ..... weight distribution in the trailer is probably one of the biggest factors of sway .
Yep, I've pulled for many years with a 5th wheel and bumper pulls. With bumper pulls The biggest factor is how you load the trailer front to back. If you get hit by wind and your trailer is loaded right it may sway but will recover. If your loaded with no or little tongue you can start swaying almost immediately when getting up to speed even with a flat bed bumper pull with no wind. Applying the brakes when serious sway occurs helps because the tongue weight is increased and the trailer tires are not allowing as much swing. The leverage that a improperly loaded trailer has on the bumper of a vehicle is what causes sway and as steering wheel corrections are made it actually compounds the problem by slinging the trailer from side to side causing a type of centrifugal force that leads to a crash. This same force is what we do when we start pumping on a swing to get movement. Biggest factor improper loading which includes not having the right tow vehicle.
I never understood with those toy haulers why they have the "garage" in the back, that way when you load something you basicly take weight off the hitch.
Good visual demonstration. I'd suggest maybe a 'Part 2' to explain other factors that contribute to sway issues. 1.(sort of alluded to in the video...) The SIZE of the trailer - The 23' TT that I pulled with a '97 light-duty F-250 (7-lug wheels) had virtually no sway issues with a load-equalizing hitch. If you're towing a 30' Airstream, you might have issues. 2. Overhang - Are your tandem trailer wheels closer to the middle (bad), or further back (good - rear kitchen floor plans, for instance)?
Good job. As mentioned in other comments, rearward trailer weight balance and surface area contribute to sway accelerating, leading to loss of control not only due to reduced traction but a more powerful lever rotating around the trailer wheels. Also, the lateral stability provided by the tires decreases with speed, parked rigs don't seem to sway, while those NASCAR guys get loose with no trailer at all😊.
I think that you slightly missed the root cause of instability. When the hitch is behind the rear axle this creates a positive feedback system. When the trailer pushes left on the hitch it pivots on the rear axle putting a right force on the front axle which introduces a right turn, further throwing the weight of the trailer to the left, increasing the left force on the hitch etc, until the driver corrects it which then throws the whole thing over the other way, and now you have a cyclic unstable repetition. The further behind the rear axle the hitch is, the worse the effect, so a long wheelbase vehicle with a short rear overhang is the most stable (or maybe the least unstable). I used to tow with a Peugeot 806 and if you look at the shape of them you can see why they tow so well for such a light vehicle. When the hitch is in front of the rear axle like an artic (semi) it is a negative feedback system. A sideways force on the hitch pushes the steering axle the same way immediately damping out the turn that the trailer has started. This is why an artic tractor unit can tow a high sided trailer that's several times its own weight and not get into a sway. Fifth wheel right over the rear axle and also "drop n drag" trailers with their own steering axle have no influence on the tow vehicle's steering and so are not unstable. The only thing that stabilises a rear overhang positive feedback trailer system is nose weight, and ideally you are looking for 10% of the trailer weight on the hitch and 90% on the trailer wheels which is easier with a large tow vehicle that can take that kind of weight without causing other issues. A trailer with a heavy nose will naturally want to plough straight on which is a stabilising effect, whereas a tail heavy trailer would just swap ends without the tow vehicle stopping it from doing so. A positive feedback system plus a trailer that's constantly trying to swap ends is guaranteed sway.
And this is a key reason why many European countries limit the speeds of travel trailers to 100 km/h or less. The smaller TVs in those countries cannot carry as much tongue weight, and are therefore less stable. Since stability decreases with increasing speed, they become unstable at normal highway speeds.
I've towed a TT for 10 years now, with and without a Hensley. The difference is astounding. There is ZERO sway with a Hensley or ProPride. I know it's a lot of money, but just think what you're carrying with you.
Same experience towing TTs for almost 20 years. Use Propride now towing 12k lb 33 ft Excel TT w/ F350 SWD crew cab long bed. And one other upgrade I recommend is AutoFlex rear air suspension with auto-leveling.
Love my ProPride hitch. My current trailer is 33’ long, precious one was 31.5. The ProPride eliminated any worries about sway. Definitely recommend talking to Sean about how their hitch can save your life and property.
I find it unique the way it does it it almost reminds me of my bass boat when it starts trying to walk but in the bass boat you can go from 12 and 4 and jerked that thing about an inch to the left a couple of times and it will line out if it ever starts doing that but you can't do that with a pick up so the rules of the road versus the water seemed to be a little bit different I know it's a pain in the butt and this current camper reminds seems to be worse than the other one thought I would get on here and find a decent fix. This is an older camper a little bit older a little bit older that I chose to go with to drag back-and-forth to jobs on the road I'm sure the newer ones have fixed this problem a little bit.
Very well explained video. I towed a skid steer yesterday but required 4x4 to get back out of the site. Forgot to kick it back off and had extreme sway. DO NOT TOW IN 4x4 ON HIGHWAY
34' bumper pull tag trailer no sway bars ever. My trick I've learned how to slow down save gas mileage wear and tear on everything. and keep my electronic brake close at hand if needed. I never even put the sway bars on. they're hard on the trailers tongue and have completely snapped some trailer tongues off.
Yes, proper setup is key! Have you considered weight distribution hitch storage? HITCHPORT Hitch and Spring Bar Mounts are the solution. The noise can also be quieted with Equal-i-zer Sway Bracket Jacket.
I agree with some of the other commenters that weight placement is also a HUGE factor in all this. But I think one thing you were sort of getting at without really articulating is that with a bumper pull when the trailer is trying to push sideways it has leverage on the tow vehicle due to the pivot point being about 4 feet behind the drive wheels, so the force is sort of amplified.
Our little camper is only 14’ and we pull with our Pacifica mini van. We were told by the dealership as well as the company (Travel Lite), NO sway hitch can or should be used when pulling this little camper with a vehicle that is double the weight of the camper.
Two things that I'd like to add. I have an Equilizer hitch. I bought the TT used. After following the setup to a T, I looked closely at the spot where the L brackets are mounted to the frame of the TT. I observed longitudinal scrapes on the frame rails from the bolts, both top and bottom. The bolts were as tight as practical, with the steel backing plates beginning to bow from the tension. So I spray painted the frame to observe if there was fresh movement after a tow. There was. I welded two straps to the back of the L bracket and put another complete set of vertical mounting bars with bolts. That eliminated the 1/2 - 3/4" movement entirely. When you think of the movement and the distance to the fulcrum, the tires are another 12 feet behind my 3/4" movement, which means the allowed 3/4" allowed sway becomes several inches at the axles. The ball hitch itself, where it slides into the receiver was longer than it has to be. Based on your explanation, the closer you can get the ball toward the rear axle, the better. I don't know what 1" closer does, but it can only help. There is considerable slop in the slip fit between the hitch and the receiver. I'm going to work on fixing that, but is it +/1 1/4" at the ball, even though it was =/- 3/32" at the slip fit. So it was already exacerbated 10" away from the source. Again, multiply that by about 13 feet in my case, an it turns into a couple inches. In the spirit of getting rid of as much source of sway as possible, these things need to be understood and worked on as well.
A different type of hitch over here in the UK The ball connection on the vehicle is clamped down after the trailer is connected stops snaking and gives better stability. In the UK we are only permitted up to 60 mph even this can be too fast in some circumstances. It sounds wrong to clamp the towing vehicle to the towed vehicle,you would assume the ball and hitch would not turn,but it does,and secondly when reversing the tite hitch stops the trailer from too much outrunning giving much more control
Knowing how to get out of that situation once your in it is key. Trailer brakes and throttle are two tools to help keep you off of your roof. But every situation is different.
Great video. I had to learn that no load balancing hitch means horrible wobble / sway. Now; I only get sway on long downhill curves which is likely a weight distribution issue with tongue weight being too high.
Nice job at explaining how sway works and what causes it. Nice that you included the Hensley hitch in your description. I have been towing trailers for 40 + years, and since 2007 when I bought my Hensley hitch, I have towed 3 different Trailers all on the 30' range with a 2007 Chevrolet 1 ton Express extended wheelbase van.We have traveled over 37,000 miles, and not once have we experienced ANY sway! And as to expense, yes they are expensive, but when you consider that they are connecting my investment that approaches $80,000.00, the $3,500.00 I spent on the hitch system amounts to a bit over 4% of the value I have running down the highway, and it is guaranteed for life to the original owner. I call that pretty cheap insurance. By the way, I do not work for nor am I compensated for making this comment or any other comment about the Hensley hitch. I have worn out various parts of the system, and I call them, they send me the replacement, bill me, and when they receive my damaged parts they credit me that payment. And yes, they play hell on my receivers. I have replaced one and had the second receiver modified to manage the stress.
Jeffory Newkirk LOL! The first thing I did when I got my '05 dually was to get rid of the (sub)standard frame mounted round cross beam receiver carrier Chevy supplied in that time frame with a "Class V" replacement. It wasn't really very expensive as I recall. Subsequently, I likely didn't tow nearly as much as you have, but I have similar sentiments to yours about the Hensley Hitch. Never leave home without it! Be Safe!
Very good explanations. I tow a 35 foot long Wildcat behind a Chevy 2500HD. We went towable because of a large shell and dog crates in the truck bed. I use the equalizer system, and it seems to do the job. The only time I've felt the trailer come loose was on a high bridge in wind over the Mississippi... it was exciting for a moment...until the hitch did its job and everything snapped back straight :) Keep the great videos coming
Another thing is the length of travel trailer. The longer the trailer the greater the moment arm, and in conjunction with the wind you have the tail wagging the dog effect and greater sway.
Another very well explained video that helps illustrate the many forces involve in towing trailers. Some of the following is in lamen's terms for the benefit of others who may be reading this. I know you from one of the Ford Truck forums I frequent. I know you know your stuff. One of the things that you left out that may have been noteworthy, is tires. It is astounding how many 1/2 ton trucks and SUVs have P-rated tires (Passenger car) standard. Swapping those out with an LT with a rating of E for instance will allow one to increase air pressure, thus increasing side wall rigidity. This will also help to make sure that the articulation of the entire suspension system resides where it should. I know this is a small factor when compared to the major causes you explained. But for the occasional weekender, simply changing a properly set up system with appropriate tire can be the final piece to the puzzle for a more enjoyable towing experience. Another thought.... For those out there who have purchased a package deal from an RV dealer (trailer and WD hitch), be mindful that it is almost impossible to properly set up a WD hitch to a tow vehicle when it is brand new at the dealer. Once the trailer is loaded with all of the gear for camping trips, it will almost undoubtedly change the behavior of the WD hitch. Be sure that if they assemble and install the system for you, the hitch and its components should be understood and adjusted by driver or owner of the vehicle. A basic understanding of how to properly adjust any WD hitch out there is a must if you consider yourself a conscientious, safe driver. It is just as important as working brakes and sound tires. Okay, rant over.
Well done!! I definitely have a better understanding of what sway is. I use an old Curt weight distribution hitch without anti-sway bar. I learned that by moving more weight to the middle of the truck bed I was able to control sway much better without an anti-sway bar.
Toy haulers are great, but when you strap down 2 heavy bikes in the back "garage" area of a travel trailer, counterbalancing for proper tongue weight is critical. Rear loaded trailers are the most dangerous thing on the road. They sway and wander with the slightest provocation. Losing your trailer, bikes, truck, and maybe even your life all in one fleeting moment of terror ain't why we RV.
There are hitches that measure the tongue weight, as well as control sway. Spend the money, spend the time and do it right. This is supposed to be fun.
I watched this video just before towing a travel trailer for the first time. Gotta be honest, thought it was a bit exaggerated but quickly learned you were spot on!!! Thanks for sharing!
Heading down in a couple hours to pick my new trailer up. I drive truck for a living. Weight distribution makes a world of difference.
If the axles or wheels are not aligned properly you will notice unusual wear on your tires! If you ow n and haul an RV, please read and follow your owners manual. Weights are hard for most of us to understand, but worth studying and following! A lot better than jack knifing your rig or seriously injuring yourself or family.
In addition or explanation, my brother and I have been driving professionally for over 30 years, we’ve seen and been through some interesting experiences. My brother jackknifed a set of triples on snowy road up by Idaho Falls. Not a good experience, I’ve rolled my car on the backroad to SunValley Idaho, just past Arco. Point is if you don’t follow the laws, of nature or man’s laws then there will be consequences! Some of which are very unpleasant!
Wow, easily the granddaddy of videos on sway with RVs. Great job!
Slow the trailer, eliminate the sway. Use the brake override and feather it with experience. Do not fight physics.
wow....this is the first time to understand right away about sway. best explanation ever.
OK, if you have a PU with a single axle, get air bags! And a really good weight distribution hitch. Really, the air bags drastically reduce the bouncing. Weight distribution is so important I like the Blue Ox. Simple and works for me. Whatever you use, go slow and watch your flanks. Be very mindful of windy conditions when you are approaching a field after transit through tree lined terrain. Cross winds are hell.
an 8ft deisel 2500 made an incredible difference along with a Blue Ox WD hitch. We towed the same 30ft trailer with a capable v8 SUV but the difference in tracking and "fighting" the trailer continually was amazing. We almost bought a 1500 and are very glad we stuck to the plan. Great video. Glad I've never had to manually jam the brake controller to save lives at this point.
Message received and understood.Thanks heaps
A+++ Video!!! Thank You!!! This should be required viewing for every new RV owner!!
Great explanation. I can personally attest to the effect of wheelbase. For all sorts of reasons we use an SUV as our TV, and a couple of years ago changed the TV from one with a 118" wheelbase to a 131". Our trailer and WD hitch (Blue-Ox Sway-Pro) remained unchanged (apart from height adjustments to fit to the new truck). With the old TV, driving in any kind of crosswind was a white knuckle affair, and I'd usually find myself dropping my speed to 80 km/h (50 mph). With the new TV, I can hold my speed at 100 km/h with no sway.
However, you missed one critical factor: Speed. Since sway is a dynamic effect caused, in large part, by the airflow over the sides of the trailer, for any setup there is a critical speed, above which the tendency to sway will be amplified with each oscillation of the trailer. Therefore, one easy (and free) means to control sway is to slow down. A side benefit is the greatly reduced fuel consumption!
If a bad sway occurs use the electric trailer break controller to slow the trailer and the tow vehicle
I have a Blue Ox sway max weight distribution hitch for my 35 foot tt, it helps. It does not sway so much as just pushes the whole rig slightly with a gusting cross wind. If you feel swaying coming on, 1) foot off accelerator and foot off brake if possible, 2) GENTLY squeeze the trailer brake. This will tend to stretch the trailer and truck straight. Stop sway before it starts. I have towed in some pretty nasty winds, and this helps. And go slow or stop in bad winds. I think my suspension air bladders help too. They kick down any bounce.
Very good advice. I prefer a neutral throttle or even slight acceleration rather than coasting before hitting the trailer brakes before going off throttle and on the tow vehicle brakes. Better outcomes. More control. In tow-haul mode, the downshift and compression can be just enough to lose control.
Awesome video! Can’t promote this info enough! Knowledge promotes wisdom, wisdom saves lives and money. Thank you
Weight distribution is a huge Factor
Back when I was working for a motorcycle shop, I went about halfway across Texas pulling a 16 foot lowboy behind a half ton pickup with five big dressers and a side-by-side loaded on it
Coming down this one long slow Hill the trailer started wagging the truck like you wouldn't believe
Pulled over, move the side by side and two of the motorcycles further forward on the trailer, not a hint of sway the rest of the trip
That's back when I was still green enough pulling trailers to pull a load like that with a half ton with a V6 🤣
Very good illustration and accurate explanation. Couldn't be better. Thanks to people like you, the internet is an incredible learning tool. Well done!
This was excellent, thank you! I just bought a 20’ Kodiak qb travel trailer that I’m pulling with my F-150. The dealer advised a weight distribution set up (it has an integrated sway control) and I wasn’t sure because it’s an additional $700. or so. However, watching your videos has convinced me and I’ve made an appointment to get it installed. Thanks again, your videos are very informative and educational.
Excellent video, you are a natural teacher. So many things to learn about pulling an rv in safe safe and stress free manor. Thank you
Best explanation I've seen of weight distribution and sway control.
Thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you I would say that a million more times if I had the time. I have been trying to explain this to my sister she has a travel trailer and she just bought a pickup truck she was pulling the travel trailer with her minivan and that didn't work out too well. But now she has a pickup truck and I was trying to explain the sway bars and weight distribution hitch tour and I think this video will get it through to her so again thank you so much.
Fantastic explanation of how the weight distribution hitch works. I had the basic idea but seeing the physics of it really brought the importance of setting that hitch up right
Thank you! You are my new teacher! We are just getting into looking for a trailer to pull and have a 95 4x4 k1500 suburban with no towing package other than a ball hitch. Thanks to God 20 plus years ago I hauled three horses from Nebraska to nw Illinois through a blizzard with it without incident and want to be much smarter about towing now.
You bet I will be following you and again thanks for caring and educating us. 🙏🏻
A buddy of mine tried coming to my rescue when my Suburban broke down. He showed up with his newer Suburban and a flat bed trailer. Got my Suburban loaded up and proceeded to get on the Freeway. We got up to about 40mph when the trailer started swaying back and forth. He is an excellent driver and knew when to gas the truck and when not to along with knowing not to slam the brake pedal through the floor. From the trailer swaying back and forth we took up both southbound lanes and almost went through a guard rail before he was able to get everything under control and stopped. My Suburban and moved around enough that my driver side rear tire was hanging off of the trailer and the drain plug and the axle of my Suburban got stuck on one of the diamonds of the diamond plate deck of the trailer. His was the first time he had used his Suburban to tow a vehicle with and found out a couple of days later that the leaf springs on the driver's side of his Suburban were bad. This was a seriously scary experience that everyone learned from and grateful as hell that no one was hurt.
After using 2 different friction style say controls I switched to a Hensley Arrow. Not only did their hitched worked as advertised, they have the best Customer Service I have ever seen in the travel trailer accessory business. When I sold my travel trailer and went with a motor home, they bought my Hensley Arrow back from me.
Bruce Marcotte I bought a used Hensley in a private sale via e-trailers. Hensley Mfg treated me like a new customer throughout. Never had an issue with the hitch. When I quit camping after buying a 3500 dually diesel (loved that truck) Hensley bought back the hitch, all the accessories and spare parts (new in box, plus 2 sets of sway bars) at more $ than they said they would! They sent me the box to put it all in! Their Customer Service was simply GREAT throughout (three drawbar swaps). Zero issues towing with a 1500, but I must have weighed both rigs half a dozen times or so to assure myself that everything was within spec. I went for the diesel strictly for the torque - towing in the mountains - and never regretted any of it.
Wow. This was one of first video of yours that I saw on late 2018 before by my travel trailer in 4/2019. Thanks.
Amazing explanation. You did great
This is exactly why I got a 5th wheel. Super safe towing and no tail wagging the dog.
Excellent job in explaining a complex problem in understandable terms.
Very informative for the people that don't know much about towing and weight distribution. Well done!
Nice video...... I spent big bucks on an EQUALIZER unit from Utah. Took some time to install but haven't had any problems
Thank You for this I've been towing trailers for years, and your explanation of the Weight Distribution Hitch cleared up some gray areas for me!!
Thank you. I would have liked to hear more time discussing improper weight distribution on the hitch and how that causes inertial over correction between the the two body masses of the tow vehicle and the trailer. In my opinion, Wind is only a factor when it is significant. Tire alignment is a mechanical problem that occurs, but is not common. But improper weight distribution causes most of the scary and dangerous sway. That is why there are typically two systems incorporated in most camping and cargo trailer coupling systems. They are the sway control system, or braking systems that are added to weight distribution systems to limit sway, and the weight distribution system to bring the tow vehicle and the trailer into longitudinal and latitudinal alignment as a means to correct weight distribution.
I agree. Ive towed many years with both types of trailers.
How the trailer is loaded front to back which produces tongue weight is really biggest factor in sway
Thank you for a great video, the sign of a good teacher is when he can explain the subject matter in a way that the general audience can understand. Unlike some of your critics who try to impress themselves with complicated remedies.
Wish i saw this before i bought a 45k travel trailer!Great vid,and if i get another rv it'll be a 5th wheel....lesson learned🇨🇱
Great explanation. I'm sure a lot of people are going to benefit from it.
Excellent explanation and demo….it was easy to understand! As a newbie looking to possibly tow an RV in a couple of years this was extremely educational!
Also, a very essential part of the "complete" system is the Brake actuator. GOTTA have one! Can't emphasize this enough!
Every travel trailer owner should watch this video 👍
Excellent !! I added an additional length to my RVs back porch and hauled an atv and generator on it. This is definitely effecting sway! I’m gonna have to eliminate these I think to make a safer ride
Great video I learned a lot.
This video may be the reason we go with a fifth wheel instead of a travel trailer. Super helpful!
We got a Hensley Arrow hitch and we don’t even know what sway is anymore. So glad we had it towing across the Great Plains. Well worth it.
Genius explanation and illustration! Thanks so much!
As a Forklift driver who loaded Semi trailers, I was taught to put the heaviest part of a load ahead of the rear axles. This helps to keep the trailer from swaying, (tail wag) especially with tandem towing. I found that putting the majority of the load ahead of the axles made my camper tow better, careful not to exceed the tongue weight limits. Sway bars have improved since then.
Roy Davis general rule of thumb is 10-15% of the total weight should be tongue weight. More weight really only puts more strain on the tow vehicle but airbags or a good weight distribution hitch can alleviate most of that strain
Hi Roy I hear ya as far as weight distribution goes but I drive forklift too and only deal with lumber and MDF. Most of the loads I ship out need to be above the axles with less weight above the pins. I mainly deal with B-trains and the occasional flat deck if that matters.
Roy you have it correct. The problem with only 10% of the weight on the hitch is wind hitting the front of the trailer lifts it up, reducing tongue weight. Once the trailer starts lifting the hitch, you will sway.
@@gpecaut1 No not really unless your towing ar 120 mph stick with 10 to 12 %How do I know this Im one of the engineers that wrote the trailering guide for Chevrolet
Good explanation! An interesting aspect of the sway control is that when installed properly, the tongue weight doesn't cause your back end to squat down and front to point up! It loads the weight as if it is a bridge between the trailer and truck. Your sway control adds a substantial amount of weight to your front tires. Your trailer and truck should stay level.
I have towed with the Reese Dual Cam Sway Control system since 2003. I have had no sway problems with this set up. It locks the truck and trailer together using a cam lock. Due to mechanical advantage, the trailer can't break the connection, but the truck can whenever it makes a turn. I have towed campers from 20' to 35', and have had no detectable sway. This system really works well, and is 1/10 as expensive as the Hensley.
That is an excellent explanation of trailer sway. Also including the misalignment of the trailer tires cannot be overlooked. Many think it's only wind. Great video. Happy traveling, Lou.
Except it's not alignment of the he tires, it's alignment of the axel.
Excellent vid. Had no idea about the "technical" aspect but this will change the way I drive.
Plus, don't Pull your Travel Trailer or 5th Wheel 75 MPH.... Slow the hell down and stay alive!
You have a real talent for making useful videos. Wow.
I'm 26 and planning to buy a travel trailer by the end of the year and chase my acting career. I just got upgraded to a Tundra now I gotta get the trailer, there's so much to learn RV life
Great video. Great information in a very understandable way. From a 40 + year licensed engineer.
Very well done one of the best videos on youtube well informed. Thanks
PERFECT . . . Answered ALOT of Questions I have been looking for. THANKS GREATLY . . . FANTASTIC VID . . .
Wow, very very good presentation, I just learned a thing or two. Very good, ty!!!
The very best explanation I have seen and I have seen too many
Great explanatory video! But i do agree that weight disbursement in the trailer is critical as well...ie like w tractor trailers...proper weight disbursement over the axels...thru the body and up to the hitch. This is always something to take into consideration for all trailering.
Excellent video. Ive been driving Class A trucks for 20 years but I've never towed a trailer with a pick up truck. I got myself a 1 ton dually because it's better to have more than you need and not need it then to not have enough. First thing I did was to install airlift in the rear. After this video I have decided to pay the extra money for the fifth wheel trailer.
If you experience sway you have a serious problem and a sway control hitch is just an attempt to compensate for that problem. Most sway issues stem from too much weight behind the trailer tires. Learn how to load your trailer properly. Also get a heavier truck. The factory weight rating of most pickup trucks are greatly exaggerated. I tow with a GMC 6500 diesel truck. I can tow 40k lbs and never feel my load.
Brilliant!!! Very well explained with plenty of beneficial information with great visual explanations! Thanks!
One interesting factor with travel trailers is adding weight behind the axles of the trailer. I have heavy E bikes that I mounted on a hitch on my rockwood travel trailer. In addition ,If I have any water in my fresh tank, this weight is applied behind the axles causing a tenancy to sway. If I tighten up my sway control bars which are the blue ox system, this mitigates sway when I’m in gusty wind conditions. Also I make sure that my tanks are empty and I load my truck and trailer to counter the additional weight of the heavy bike rack. Very good video!
Big thing forgotten is tire sidewall flex. This is something nobody talks about. The sidewall flex of one set of rear LT tires with four sidewalls and a short wheelbase truck creates an angle deflection of the towing vehicle greatly exaggerated over that of a longer wheelbase truck or a dually truck with eight sidewalls. Once those tires flex and take the rear of the truck off center line your instinct is to steer into it and then the pendulum effect begins.
Excellent video! Thank you for your time and effort.
Ah, I finally understand: the majority of the wind "sail" area is ahead of the trailer wheels, but more importantly, ahead of the trailer's CG. This is very much like an unstable airplane. When the center of lift is ahead of the center of gravity, any perturbation is amplified until the airplane is uncontrollable. I see how load-distribution and pivot-projecting hitches fix that. Thanks!!
I have a 2500 2 wheel drive truck I pull a 25 ft travel trailer with a 16 ft boat behind the trailer and the biggest things I have learned is you have to have a good % of nose weight to you trailer and make sure all the trailers truck and boat are as level as you can get them and I have very little trouble after that.
Best video I’ve seen on sway yet, thanks
Perfect explanation, thanks. I will now buy a sway control system knowing just exactly why!
When I was towing a travel trailer, an 18 wheeler passing me was my biggest scare. Good input Big.
With a 5th wheel trailer placement of the 5th wheel back and forward will control front to rear weight distribution on the truck.. Experience from 45 years of driving semi trucks..
I have 36' toy hauler bumper pull that tows with no sway when no toys are in the back , the minute i put my touring bike in the rear garage its a handful . My solution was put weight back on to the front of the trailer with 4 milk crates of concrete in the forward storage compartment . Tows great now ..... weight distribution in the trailer is probably one of the biggest factors of sway .
Yep, I've pulled for many years with a 5th wheel and bumper pulls. With bumper pulls The biggest factor is how you load the trailer front to back. If you get hit by wind and your trailer is loaded right it may sway but will recover. If your loaded with no or little tongue you can start swaying almost immediately when getting up to speed even with a flat bed bumper pull with no wind. Applying the brakes when serious sway occurs helps because the tongue weight is increased and the trailer tires are not allowing as much swing. The leverage that a improperly loaded trailer has on the bumper of a vehicle is what causes sway and as steering wheel corrections are made it actually compounds the problem by slinging the trailer from side to side causing a type of centrifugal force that leads to a crash. This same force is what we do when we start pumping on a swing to get movement. Biggest factor improper loading which includes not having the right tow vehicle.
th-cam.com/video/nd-hUX8memY/w-d-xo.html
I never understood with those toy haulers why they have the "garage" in the back, that way when you load something you basicly take weight off the hitch.
Good visual demonstration. I'd suggest maybe a 'Part 2' to explain other factors that contribute to sway issues. 1.(sort of alluded to in the video...) The SIZE of the trailer - The 23' TT that I pulled with a '97 light-duty F-250 (7-lug wheels) had virtually no sway issues with a load-equalizing hitch. If you're towing a 30' Airstream, you might have issues. 2. Overhang - Are your tandem trailer wheels closer to the middle (bad), or further back (good - rear kitchen floor plans, for instance)?
Awesome video....very well detailed.....yet simple enough.....thx for making it!
Good job. As mentioned in other comments, rearward trailer weight balance and surface area contribute to sway accelerating, leading to loss of control not only due to reduced traction but a more powerful lever rotating around the trailer wheels. Also, the lateral stability provided by the tires decreases with speed, parked rigs don't seem to sway, while those NASCAR guys get loose with no trailer at all😊.
I think that you slightly missed the root cause of instability.
When the hitch is behind the rear axle this creates a positive feedback system. When the trailer pushes left on the hitch it pivots on the rear axle putting a right force on the front axle which introduces a right turn, further throwing the weight of the trailer to the left, increasing the left force on the hitch etc, until the driver corrects it which then throws the whole thing over the other way, and now you have a cyclic unstable repetition.
The further behind the rear axle the hitch is, the worse the effect, so a long wheelbase vehicle with a short rear overhang is the most stable (or maybe the least unstable). I used to tow with a Peugeot 806 and if you look at the shape of them you can see why they tow so well for such a light vehicle.
When the hitch is in front of the rear axle like an artic (semi) it is a negative feedback system. A sideways force on the hitch pushes the steering axle the same way immediately damping out the turn that the trailer has started. This is why an artic tractor unit can tow a high sided trailer that's several times its own weight and not get into a sway.
Fifth wheel right over the rear axle and also "drop n drag" trailers with their own steering axle have no influence on the tow vehicle's steering and so are not unstable.
The only thing that stabilises a rear overhang positive feedback trailer system is nose weight, and ideally you are looking for 10% of the trailer weight on the hitch and 90% on the trailer wheels which is easier with a large tow vehicle that can take that kind of weight without causing other issues.
A trailer with a heavy nose will naturally want to plough straight on which is a stabilising effect, whereas a tail heavy trailer would just swap ends without the tow vehicle stopping it from doing so. A positive feedback system plus a trailer that's constantly trying to swap ends is guaranteed sway.
And this is a key reason why many European countries limit the speeds of travel trailers to 100 km/h or less. The smaller TVs in those countries cannot carry as much tongue weight, and are therefore less stable. Since stability decreases with increasing speed, they become unstable at normal highway speeds.
incredibly good video. I’m a newbie and this info is so helpful. thanks! subscribing now...
Thanks for creating this, impressing the importance of WDHitches and why it all happens.
I've towed a TT for 10 years now, with and without a Hensley. The difference is astounding. There is ZERO sway with a Hensley or ProPride. I know it's a lot of money, but just think what you're carrying with you.
Same experience towing TTs for almost 20 years. Use Propride now towing 12k lb 33 ft Excel TT w/ F350 SWD crew cab long bed. And one other upgrade I recommend is AutoFlex rear air suspension with auto-leveling.
My point exactly!
Love my ProPride hitch. My current trailer is 33’ long, precious one was 31.5. The ProPride eliminated any worries about sway. Definitely recommend talking to Sean about how their hitch can save your life and property.
And worth every penny.
I find it unique the way it does it it almost reminds me of my bass boat when it starts trying to walk but in the bass boat you can go from 12 and 4 and jerked that thing about an inch to the left a couple of times and it will line out if it ever starts doing that but you can't do that with a pick up so the rules of the road versus the water seemed to be a little bit different I know it's a pain in the butt and this current camper reminds seems to be worse than the other one thought I would get on here and find a decent fix. This is an older camper a little bit older a little bit older that I chose to go with to drag back-and-forth to jobs on the road I'm sure the newer ones have fixed this problem a little bit.
Very well explained video. I towed a skid steer yesterday but required 4x4 to get back out of the site. Forgot to kick it back off and had extreme sway. DO NOT TOW IN 4x4 ON HIGHWAY
Loved your explanation. Shared with my MeWe group.
Wow thanks for this video, really helps to understand what going on with the trailer. :)
34' bumper pull tag trailer no sway bars ever. My trick I've learned how to slow down save gas mileage wear and tear on everything. and keep my electronic brake close at hand if needed. I never even put the sway bars on. they're hard on the trailers tongue and have completely snapped some trailer tongues off.
Yes, proper setup is key! Have you considered weight distribution hitch storage? HITCHPORT Hitch and Spring Bar Mounts are the solution. The noise can also be quieted with Equal-i-zer Sway Bracket Jacket.
I agree with some of the other commenters that weight placement is also a HUGE factor in all this. But I think one thing you were sort of getting at without really articulating is that with a bumper pull when the trailer is trying to push sideways it has leverage on the tow vehicle due to the pivot point being about 4 feet behind the drive wheels, so the force is sort of amplified.
Our little camper is only 14’ and we pull with our Pacifica mini van. We were told by the dealership as well as the company (Travel Lite), NO sway hitch can or should be used when pulling this little camper with a vehicle that is double the weight of the camper.
Two things that I'd like to add. I have an Equilizer hitch. I bought the TT used. After following the setup to a T, I looked closely at the spot where the L brackets are mounted to the frame of the TT. I observed longitudinal scrapes on the frame rails from the bolts, both top and bottom. The bolts were as tight as practical, with the steel backing plates beginning to bow from the tension. So I spray painted the frame to observe if there was fresh movement after a tow. There was. I welded two straps to the back of the L bracket and put another complete set of vertical mounting bars with bolts. That eliminated the 1/2 - 3/4" movement entirely. When you think of the movement and the distance to the fulcrum, the tires are another 12 feet behind my 3/4" movement, which means the allowed 3/4" allowed sway becomes several inches at the axles.
The ball hitch itself, where it slides into the receiver was longer than it has to be. Based on your explanation, the closer you can get the ball toward the rear axle, the better. I don't know what 1" closer does, but it can only help.
There is considerable slop in the slip fit between the hitch and the receiver. I'm going to work on fixing that, but is it +/1 1/4" at the ball, even though it was =/- 3/32" at the slip fit. So it was already exacerbated 10" away from the source. Again, multiply that by about 13 feet in my case, an it turns into a couple inches.
In the spirit of getting rid of as much source of sway as possible, these things need to be understood and worked on as well.
You do such a great job explaining! Thanks
A different type of hitch over here in the UK The ball connection on the vehicle is clamped down after the trailer is connected stops snaking and gives better stability. In the UK we are only permitted up to 60 mph even this can be too fast in some circumstances. It sounds wrong to clamp the towing vehicle to the towed vehicle,you would assume the ball and hitch would not turn,but it does,and secondly when reversing the tite hitch stops the trailer from too much outrunning giving much more control
Thank you- this info can save lives!
Knowing how to get out of that situation once your in it is key. Trailer brakes and throttle are two tools to help keep you off of your roof. But every situation is different.
Never pull the trailer trolley brake. A sure way to jack knife.
I would like to say thank you.
Great video. I had to learn that no load balancing hitch means horrible wobble / sway. Now; I only get sway on long downhill curves which is likely a weight distribution issue with tongue weight being too high.
Nice job at explaining how sway works and what causes it. Nice that you included the Hensley hitch in your description. I have been towing trailers for 40 + years, and since 2007 when I bought my Hensley hitch, I have towed 3 different Trailers all on the 30' range with a 2007 Chevrolet 1 ton Express extended wheelbase van.We have traveled over 37,000 miles, and not once have we experienced ANY sway! And as to expense, yes they are expensive, but when you consider that they are connecting my investment that approaches $80,000.00, the $3,500.00 I spent on the hitch system amounts to a bit over 4% of the value I have running down the highway, and it is guaranteed for life to the original owner. I call that pretty cheap insurance. By the way, I do not work for nor am I compensated for making this comment or any other comment about the Hensley hitch. I have worn out various parts of the system, and I call them, they send me the replacement, bill me, and when they receive my damaged parts they credit me that payment. And yes, they play hell on my receivers. I have replaced one and had the second receiver modified to manage the stress.
Jeffory Newkirk LOL! The first thing I did when I got my '05 dually was to get rid of the (sub)standard frame mounted round cross beam receiver carrier Chevy supplied in that time frame with a "Class V" replacement. It wasn't really very expensive as I recall. Subsequently, I likely didn't tow nearly as much as you have, but I have similar sentiments to yours about the Hensley Hitch. Never leave home without it! Be Safe!
Very good explanations. I tow a 35 foot long Wildcat behind a Chevy 2500HD. We went towable because of a large shell and dog crates in the truck bed. I use the equalizer system, and it seems to do the job. The only time I've felt the trailer come loose was on a high bridge in wind over the Mississippi... it was exciting for a moment...until the hitch did its job and everything snapped back straight :) Keep the great videos coming
Very helpful video! I ran into a sway issue the first time I took my trailer on the highway. Scary stuff.
Best video I’ve seen. Keep them coming
Another thing is the length of travel trailer. The longer the trailer the greater the moment arm, and in conjunction with the wind you have the tail wagging the dog effect and greater sway.
Weight balance is big. Not enough tongue weight and/or weight behind the axles of the trailer are a big cause of sway.
Another very well explained video that helps illustrate the many forces involve in towing trailers.
Some of the following is in lamen's terms for the benefit of others who may be reading this. I know you from one of the Ford Truck forums I frequent. I know you know your stuff.
One of the things that you left out that may have been noteworthy, is tires. It is astounding how many 1/2 ton trucks and SUVs have P-rated tires (Passenger car) standard. Swapping those out with an LT with a rating of E for instance will allow one to increase air pressure, thus increasing side wall rigidity. This will also help to make sure that the articulation of the entire suspension system resides where it should.
I know this is a small factor when compared to the major causes you explained. But for the occasional weekender, simply changing a properly set up system with appropriate tire can be the final piece to the puzzle for a more enjoyable towing experience.
Another thought.... For those out there who have purchased a package deal from an RV dealer (trailer and WD hitch), be mindful that it is almost impossible to properly set up a WD hitch to a tow vehicle when it is brand new at the dealer. Once the trailer is loaded with all of the gear for camping trips, it will almost undoubtedly change the behavior of the WD hitch. Be sure that if they assemble and install the system for you, the hitch and its components should be understood and adjusted by driver or owner of the vehicle. A basic understanding of how to properly adjust any WD hitch out there is a must if you consider yourself a conscientious, safe driver. It is just as important as working brakes and sound tires.
Okay, rant over.
Well done!! I definitely have a better understanding of what sway is. I use an old Curt weight distribution hitch without anti-sway bar. I learned that by moving more weight to the middle of the truck bed I was able to control sway much better without an anti-sway bar.
what type of weight do you use and around how much weight?