Your electrical videos are always my top pic for when I have an electrical issue. I know how to wire a circuit but if I have an issue I'm lost unless I watch one of your videos then I figure it out. Thanks Eric
I actually had a physical and verbal reaction when he stuck his finger near the condenser fan. I shouted "Get your finger out of there, Eric!" and I laughed at myself uncontrollably :D Thanks for the entertainment, Eric, you daredevil.
Very good! Just a tip about radiator fans ; if one hasnt been working for a while and you jump the circuit to make it work then make sure to check there is no debris in and around the fan first. You dont want a missle flying out.
TY over the past couple days I've been trying to learn how to read audi wiring diagrams and come up with a way of figuring out why my fuel pump relay isn't getting power... I suspect the ECM but wanted to be 100% sure before replacing it. Just last night as I was laying in bed I came up with the idea to test the 4 inputs to the relay and then the wire going from there to the ecm... exactly what you described in this video. Even though I already thought about doing this, it's definitely helpful to see it laid out on video and to have verification that it's a good diagnostic method
It love what I do. I'm a hospice home health aid. I get such a thrill when I see others passionate about the careers they have, its really exciting. Do what you love to do, that you would do for free if you could just to be doing what you love. That you for your videos. Your a good role model
You should also list causes for failure of relays etc. Like the fan you were talking about, yeah my fan didn't come on, but it was obviously the relay. BUT checking the amperage drawn/ohms shown, the fan was trying to pull to much power. So that's always something you check assuming its powering something such as a fan,a/c clutch etc. If its drawing to much amperage through it, or its got to much resistance it could be in need of a new part and a relay, or just a relay, assuming the amps / ohms are in check for the given piece you are diagnosing . But remember kids, if the resistance or amperage demand is to high for the relay,.. it'll fail another relay or control module. Never diagnose why something does't work, diagnose why it failed in the first place.
Very good vid, Eric. I'm not sure what clue I missed regarding the high/low amp switch and why you thought it was ok, but personally, seeing the burn in that area, I would have focused my attention on that unit and it's socket.
I watched just about everyone of your videos before I went to tech school and now I've got more experience and learned more I'm back watching some videos again to pick up more and missed info, this is definitely helpful. Obviously now electrical diagnosing is super important on new cars
it's worth having a look for broken solder joints (or just reflow the whole board, they're not always obvious on inspection) before giving up and replacing it. had a similar intermittent problem with the door locks on my accord, turned out to be a broken solder joint in the control module. cheap and easy fix - after an hour diagnosing on my electronics bench because the broken joint wasn't visible :P
I ll like to se more about HVAC videos!!!! BLEND DOOR ACTUATORS ...PRESSURE SWITCH!!!HOW TO TEST OHMS IN A COMPRESSOR STRAIGHT OF RELAY BOX.......I REALLY FEEL GLAD TO SEE GUYS LIKE YOU TRYING TO ANSWER PEOPLE QUESTIONS.....THANK U .....N GOD BLESS U BUSINESS AND U FAMILY..............................AND I'm sorry 4 My bad English but i'm still learning ...
Glad I wasn't the only one in the grey area. I was wondering the same thing, I think in the end he replaced the control unit and that because it was the old control unit that was intermittent. Probably a solder connection that did not contact when the control unit got hot.
Power Probe is not owned by snapon it may be sold, by them as well as Matco etc, but they are a company all by themselves, they also have the best brake bleeder and adapters on the market. PP 3 is the best there is! I was just using mine to diag a inop brake light:)
Thx ericthecarguy ...!!! i'm doing my mechanics licence .. and your video's always help me out !!! but can you do a video on the voltages and currents and how to repair a Delco remy st10 starter ??
Your responsibility is to inform the client and ask.I've seen many people that are like "get it unfixed" or "who told you to do so?" and then a ridiculous situtation much worse than the problem occurs and every other job is delayed for shit.
i know you wouldn't be able to measure the resistance by doing this but you could have also provided ground with the power probe on that wire and that would have activated the fan correct? it would have told you the wire was good and that it was the unit that was the problem if i understood the wiring diagram correctly
Thanks Eric. Your videos are great for a newbie like me. I read somewhere that wiring diagrams on conversion vans are next to impossible to find. My van is an 93 E150 Cargo with an RV prep package (I think), converted by a company that's long out of business. After the passenger conversion, a wheelchair lift was added, then removed by the folks I bought it from. They added a bed and did some interior work to create a basic sleeping area for touring the US in comfort but nothing else electrically. I'm hoping that there are basically common electrical modifications to conversion vans that follow the original wiring in a logical way and really hoping conversion companies didn't get too creative and out there with the wiring. Does that mean that collecting wiring diagrams from similar conversions might be worth while starting with the factory specs?
Broken solder joints are a known issue on japanese cars here were you can easily fix the problem with resoldering the broken solder terminals. You can notice it by looking at the solder joints and find a small ring in solder.
If that happens whe you ride over a bump or something like this, then check the speaker wiring. I have met many radios, that shut off the amplifiers if the output is shorted (either the wires can be shorted between themselves or to ground)
even troubleshooting a sensor or actuator is possible with a standard DMM and knowing its resistance range and even so odb2 scan tools can hook directly to sensors and actuators so the only components I would have trouble diagnosing right now is the control modules that don't throw codes
well they actually make a program to block those ads, but since you were rude and i come to this guy for advice usually presented really well by eric, im not telling you what it is.
Always dirty always will be. understood everything you said !! I got a 22r engine I'm rebuilding. to bad your from Cincinatti ") I can ake the video and edit. your two+four+six sense and knowledge might be helpful to others !!! Thanks alot for your time I hope to do the same in the future !!!!
Would also be nice to know how many amps the fans are drawing. Well done sir, I like having the definite answer as well; that is what separates mechanics from parts changers. No boomerang vehicles, fix them once and fix them right is the goal.
Hi Eric, I noted in your video that you used a part from a scrap car that came into your garage. However what is your opinion on generaly using second hand parts instead of new ones? I mean especially when older cars, their parts are harder to get hold of or third party parts are inferrior in quality.
Great channel ...I like Eric because much like me he's old-school and I will never depend on the ODB scan to Indicate a problem sometimes it's an easy problem that can still throw a code like a misfire code on the Chevy's most times it's a bad wire and I have fixed tons after people have spent Huge $$ on converters and sensors that was just unnecessary and all it needed was cut splice and solder a wire... so keep you hair in your head not in your hands and check all the simple symptoms First stay clean....
Nice video. I noticed you swapped fan control modules out to test which worked fine. However, I was looking at the drawing and I was wondering if you could test the module by disconnecting it and bypassing it by jumping the blu/org to blk in the fan module connector. If it comes on then you have a bad module. I was just wondering if that might work. Well thanks for the video and explanation. Great job as always.
yes the colored wires are demystified by the wired diagram, one can trouble shoot for relays , fuses , motors , and open /shorts in circuits or there connectors. But how do you know if the control modules are bad I would think the odb2 is the only way but will the odb2 diagnostic tool always throw a code for a bad controlling module? like a fan subcontrol module I know most of the major ones like ecm, bcm, tcm ,...etc would probably throw a code but for subsystem controls
Couldn't you have also used the power probe to send ground to test the wire from the fan controller to the relay? If the fan turned on then you know the wire was good no?
Love the video, and was wondering if you could do a video on color coding wiring diagrams like you did on this video? Maybe a step by step? I have a terrible time reading wiring diagrams and i think that would help me a ton!! Stay dirty my friend-
I watch you because you know a lot of stuff and you rock. And I am wondering about if there is an all in one website that allows one to type in make and model of a car and out pops a pdf of the wiring diagram for the car and its features , power seats , flashers ,....everything in one centralized location. so one doesn't have to download a million different manuals for wire diagrams for each make/model
im a student and your vids helps me a lot... is there any way you could test that control unit? or any unit at all? if you can, can you make a video of it tnx
I cannot tell if my coolant fan works because I'm told it only works when engine is running under the hood unbeknownst to me. Same as possible trunk light and relay circuts. I'm a DYI'er and its all too complex for me and I do not have the expensive equipment you have - screen and all. I'll take it apart, of course, and do my own DYI diagnosis...then take it into the garage to get fixed for $300 - $600 fix on my car I got for nothing$. It breaks my heart. But, not before I remove neg cable for awhile until I get my "isolation switch".
I did not mean in this particular case with this particular manufacturer, but in general. Ok it stands to reason that if this is a common problem, then an alternative new part would be the best option.
Eric awesome video. Have an intermittent problem with an 05 Honda Accrd. The radio will all of a sudden cut out but the display is still reading as if all is good. No sound but if i turn the system off then back on it usually comes back to norm. don't know if it is the speaker wiring or the radio electronics that is the problem. Any suggestions? Cd player also does not respond but display says it is playing. Will usually be alright at first drive of the day, then it will die after a few minutes
If you didn't have an extra control module around could you just have used the power probe to supply a ground to the orange/blue wire and see if it worked then?
Контакты в управляемой цепи расплавились не из-за контроллера вентиляторов (fan control unit), они расплавились из-за высокого тока в управляемой цепи или из-за высокого сопротивления в разъёме реле или в контактах внутри реле.Такое часто случается, нужно было проверить сопротивление замкнутого реле, устранить окисления с контактов в разъёме и проверить сопротивление вентилятора (fan), высокий ток может быть вызван замыканием обмотки в вентиляторе или замыканием ротора на корпус из-за подшипника
Thanks for your vids, EricTheCarGuy. They are informative and interesting. I do detect a teeny touch of stefan molyneux in your manner however, which will hopefully fade away as the real you shines forth.
What is that unit called? I believe that is the issue I'm having my with accord where the fans will turn on immediately after the car is turned off, regardless if the car has run (i.e. cold engine); fans also don't run unless the A/C relay is engaged. I've replaced the relays and thermoswitches, so last resort, but having a hard time finding this part online. Closest junkyard is 50 miles away, but push come to shove, I'll drive it. nvm, found some on ebay using the part number from the honda diagram. thanks for the video
Looks like this circuit board isn't burnt up or something. With a little experience it's possible to recognize the most likely reason for intermittent electrical problems on circuit boads like this, which are cold soldering joints. So if you don't want to buy a new control unit for possibly hundreds of bucks, while it's a 10bucks part, just find the cold soldering joints on the board, resolder them and bob's your uncle.
So what if the wire had been the culprit instead of the unit you replaced? Do you just run another wire along side the wire loom to bypass the faulty one? How would you go about repairing an issue like that?
I have a "parasitic draw" somewhere..I and my neighbour's did NOT react as they should @ DC 10 multi meter settings. With out these readings, I cannot know if the fuses I removed were the culprits of the "parasitic draw". Any ideas?
A question no ones seems to be able to answer for me. I need to replace the power distribution center (fuse box) under the hood. The horn does not work and a mechanic determined this needs replaced. The box is expensive so I found a cheaper one and want to do it myself. So the question is people have said it will need programed. But will it? This is a 2007 sxt dodge caravan. Any info you can toss my way?
could this not also be caused by a faulty input to the module like a coolant temp sensor also? I would be worried about frying a new module by plugging it in with a short on the input side.
I have a 97 accord lx my fans don’t turn on while driving but once I shut the car off they turn on. I jumped the thermostat switch and both the ac and cooling fan turn on , I replaced all coolant sensors and relays and fuses except for that box u mention in this video does my 97 accord have this “fan timer relay”
love your videos eric as a mechanic by trade its always useful to learn new things, i think you need to get more sleep tho as you look half asleep in this video lol
if the module is providing a ground , could you just hook a test light to battery positive and check it at the relay connector ? or would that be risky to the module?
Sir, you are the only one I know who can help me out with this car problem. The car is a range rover 1998 p38 4.6HSE and v8. Many people were invited to start the car even from a far State but the couldn't. The challenge is a crank no start, no spark,no injector pulse but good communication with a scan tool. I have added fuel to the intake manifold and crank the engine no change at all. It is not starting. In addition, I checked for spark, but there is no spark as well. Hence, I have just checked for injector pulse but there's no injector pulse either. There is also no ignition current to the injector circuit with key ON and engine off. All the fuses and relays are good. I also checked the injector circuit for continuity if the wire is shorted but it was ok. Scan tool communicated and showed only p1843 and p1842 code. There was no RPM during cranking. What I noticed today when I compared the ignition, earth and DC with the same car that was starting and driving to the car that was not starting, what I saw made me to flabbergasted. Where the was ignition for example in the working car there was DC in the car that was not starting. Also a particular relay circuit for example RL-2 one of the pin of the connector when my test light was on battery ground and relay removed, the pump buzzed and testlight dim but when I tried that same location with test light and same pin the test light was dim and ABS relay was actuated no buzz from pump. It is like that in many places in the fuse box and PCM circuit. Please what's the cause of the problem and what do I need to do to fix the problem?
Erick need your help.Dodge intrepid i had replace the gas pump about 3 times already and cant solve the problem,car shuts off after about 25 minutes of driving,the old pump had a male connector for a small wire,but the autopart told me that it was for simple ground for static.i tried to read the wire diagram but i can find that particular wire where it goes from the pump to who knows where. Dodge intrepid 3.2 2001 thanks for your help
Your electrical videos are always my top pic for when I have an electrical issue. I know how to wire a circuit but if I have an issue I'm lost unless I watch one of your videos then I figure it out. Thanks Eric
Wow, that's one of the best fuse boxes I've ever seen. So neat and well laid out.
This guy is awesome! He deserves a hell of alot more than what he's currently getting! Best videos around (PERIOD)!!
I actually had a physical and verbal reaction when he stuck his finger near the condenser fan. I shouted "Get your finger out of there, Eric!" and I laughed at myself uncontrollably :D
Thanks for the entertainment, Eric, you daredevil.
Why am I watching you? Because I don't like how Scotty Kilmer yells at me :(
Seriously though, you explain things so well.
😂😂
Very good! Just a tip about radiator fans ; if one hasnt been working for a while and you jump the circuit to make it work then make sure to check there is no debris in and around the fan first. You dont want a missle flying out.
No doubt 💯
TY over the past couple days I've been trying to learn how to read audi wiring diagrams and come up with a way of figuring out why my fuel pump relay isn't getting power... I suspect the ECM but wanted to be 100% sure before replacing it. Just last night as I was laying in bed I came up with the idea to test the 4 inputs to the relay and then the wire going from there to the ecm... exactly what you described in this video. Even though I already thought about doing this, it's definitely helpful to see it laid out on video and to have verification that it's a good diagnostic method
Thanks!
You're the man Eric. Wiring problems with my '94 Metro brought me to you once more!
You are very good at taking the viewer/DIY thru every step with pics. Invaluable! Then at video you did "double check". Great.
It love what I do. I'm a hospice home health aid. I get such a thrill when I see others passionate about the careers they have, its really exciting. Do what you love to do, that you would do for free if you could just to be doing what you love.
That you for your videos. Your a good role model
Good two part series! Learning auto electric is like learning a new language. It makes my head hurt.
You should also list causes for failure of relays etc. Like the fan you were talking about, yeah my fan didn't come on, but it was obviously the relay. BUT checking the amperage drawn/ohms shown, the fan was trying to pull to much power. So that's always something you check assuming its powering something such as a fan,a/c clutch etc. If its drawing to much amperage through it, or its got to much resistance it could be in need of a new part and a relay, or just a relay, assuming the amps / ohms are in check for the given piece you are diagnosing . But remember kids, if the resistance or amperage demand is to high for the relay,.. it'll fail another relay or control module. Never diagnose why something does't work, diagnose why it failed in the first place.
Very good vid, Eric.
I'm not sure what clue I missed regarding the high/low amp switch and why you thought it was ok, but personally, seeing the burn in that area, I would have focused my attention on that unit and it's socket.
I watched just about everyone of your videos before I went to tech school and now I've got more experience and learned more I'm back watching some videos again to pick up more and missed info, this is definitely helpful. Obviously now electrical diagnosing is super important on new cars
I believe that you are a great Auto-Technecian. I do enjoy your repair performance. Especially the electrical diagnostics- Tumbs up!!!!!
I'm "stealing" your stick pin idea to troubleshoot in my HVAC job . FANTASTIC IDEA!
I like wiregram. it's an abbreviation that makes sense.
Great video on a real life problem. I subscribe because you take the time to explain and visually show each step. Keep up great work.
it's worth having a look for broken solder joints (or just reflow the whole board, they're not always obvious on inspection) before giving up and replacing it. had a similar intermittent problem with the door locks on my accord, turned out to be a broken solder joint in the control module. cheap and easy fix - after an hour diagnosing on my electronics bench because the broken joint wasn't visible :P
Eric your videos are totally awesome and a great help for me fixing my old Mercedes.
I learn so much.
You rock!
Some of the BEST DIY videos I have ever seen!. Bar None!
It’s so easy to learn from your videos. Thank you so much!
I ll like to se more about HVAC videos!!!! BLEND DOOR ACTUATORS ...PRESSURE SWITCH!!!HOW TO TEST OHMS IN A COMPRESSOR STRAIGHT OF RELAY BOX.......I REALLY FEEL GLAD TO SEE GUYS LIKE YOU TRYING TO ANSWER PEOPLE QUESTIONS.....THANK U .....N GOD BLESS U BUSINESS AND U FAMILY..............................AND I'm sorry 4 My bad English but i'm still learning ...
Very thorough electrical diagnosis video!! Really lays it out clear.
Eric I like watching your videos I learn a lot
Nice work Eric I always appreciate your videos.
Great Video Eric. Would you consider doing one on Parasitic battery drain problem. Thanks.
Wow Eric ur awesome.. this video really was exciting and helped out a lot..
The best mechanic on all of the The Tube.... the bomb
i love your videos. Appreciate all your time Eric!
Glad I wasn't the only one in the grey area. I was wondering the same thing, I think in the end he replaced the control unit and that because it was the old control unit that was intermittent. Probably a solder connection that did not contact when the control unit got hot.
Man part 1 help me fix mine that was so kool to take what you say and execute for a complete repair thanks a million Big E. u r da man.
Power Probe is not owned by snapon it may be sold, by them as well as Matco etc, but they are a company all by themselves, they also have the best brake bleeder and adapters on the market.
PP 3 is the best there is! I was just using mine to diag a inop brake light:)
nice video man, i really enjoyed it. one of my favorite channels
Thx ericthecarguy ...!!! i'm doing my mechanics licence .. and your video's always help me out !!! but can you do a video on the voltages and currents and how to repair a Delco remy st10 starter ??
Your responsibility is to inform the client and ask.I've seen many people that are like "get it unfixed" or "who told you to do so?" and then a ridiculous situtation much worse than the problem occurs and every other job is delayed for shit.
Eric, you should be teaching the next generation of tech's at the local college! Nice work.
Great work, Thank you very much .your videos taught me a lot .
i know you wouldn't be able to measure the resistance by doing this but you could have also provided ground with the power probe on that wire and that would have activated the fan correct? it would have told you the wire was good and that it was the unit that was the problem if i understood the wiring diagram correctly
Thanks Eric. Your videos are great for a newbie like me. I read somewhere that wiring diagrams on conversion vans are next to impossible to find.
My van is an 93 E150 Cargo with an RV prep package (I think), converted by a company that's long out of business.
After the passenger conversion, a wheelchair lift was added, then removed by the folks I bought it from. They added a bed and did some interior work to create a basic sleeping area for touring the US in comfort but nothing else electrically.
I'm hoping that there are basically common electrical modifications to conversion vans that follow the original wiring in a logical way and really hoping conversion companies didn't get too creative and out there with the wiring.
Does that mean that collecting wiring diagrams from similar conversions might be worth while starting with the factory specs?
Good video Mr. Eric 👍
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. You are an inspiration to the d.i.y'rs.
Broken solder joints are a known issue on japanese cars here were you can easily fix the problem with resoldering the broken solder terminals. You can notice it by looking at the solder joints and find a small ring in solder.
If that happens whe you ride over a bump or something like this, then check the speaker wiring. I have met many radios, that shut off the amplifiers if the output is shorted (either the wires can be shorted between themselves or to ground)
even troubleshooting a sensor or actuator is possible with a standard DMM and knowing its resistance range and even so odb2 scan tools can hook directly to sensors and actuators so the only components I would have trouble diagnosing right now is the control modules that don't throw codes
well they actually make a program to block those ads, but since you were rude and i come to this guy for advice usually presented really well by eric, im not telling you what it is.
step 7 if all else fails run your own wire and a toggle switch:) but seriously good video. i hate electrical issues.
Always dirty always will be. understood everything you said !!
I got a 22r engine I'm rebuilding. to bad your from Cincinatti ")
I can ake the video and edit. your two+four+six sense and knowledge might be helpful to others !!!
Thanks alot for your time
I hope to do the same in the future !!!!
Would also be nice to know how many amps the fans are drawing. Well done sir, I like having the definite answer as well; that is what separates mechanics from parts changers. No boomerang vehicles, fix them once and fix them right is the goal.
Hi Eric,
I noted in your video that you used a part from a scrap car that came into your garage. However what is your opinion on generaly using second hand parts instead of new ones? I mean especially when older cars, their parts are harder to get hold of or third party parts are inferrior in quality.
Great troubleshooting video, Thanks for sharing this with us.....
Great channel ...I like Eric because much like me he's old-school and I will never depend on the ODB scan to Indicate a problem sometimes it's an easy problem that can still throw a code like a misfire code on the Chevy's most times it's a bad wire and I have fixed tons after people have spent Huge $$ on converters and sensors that was just unnecessary and all it needed was cut splice and solder a wire... so keep you hair in your head not in your hands and check all the simple symptoms First stay clean....
Nice video. I noticed you swapped fan control modules out to test which worked fine. However, I was looking at the drawing and I was wondering if you could test the module by disconnecting it and bypassing it by jumping the blu/org to blk in the fan module connector. If it comes on then you have a bad module. I was just wondering if that might work. Well thanks for the video and explanation. Great job as always.
every time I see one of these videos, I realize I will never understand vehicles :(. BUT I WILL KEEP TRYING! haha great video
burned connectors means high resistance caused by poor fit, loose spades, or excess current draw possibly caused by a worn fan bearing.
yes the colored wires are demystified by the wired diagram, one can trouble shoot for relays , fuses , motors , and open /shorts in circuits or there connectors. But how do you know if the control modules are bad I would think the odb2 is the only way but will the odb2 diagnostic tool always throw a code for a bad controlling module? like a fan subcontrol module I know most of the major ones like ecm, bcm, tcm ,...etc would probably throw a code but for subsystem controls
Couldn't you have also used the power probe to send ground to test the wire from the fan controller to the relay? If the fan turned on then you know the wire was good no?
I didn't understand fully but enjoyed the vid and enthusiastic lesson.
OMG that shield for ECU, it's like Spartacus mounted his shield there.
Love the video, and was wondering if you could do a video on color coding wiring diagrams like you did on this video? Maybe a step by step? I have a terrible time reading wiring diagrams and i think that would help me a ton!! Stay dirty my friend-
Goog explained the wiring diagrams but the problem i think it was the fanmotor brushes you tap on the motor they start working again nice video
great video and instructions as usual thanks
I watch you because you know a lot of stuff and you rock. And I am wondering about if there is an all in one website that allows one to type in make and model of a car and out pops a pdf of the wiring diagram for the car and its features , power seats , flashers ,....everything in one centralized location. so one doesn't have to download a million different manuals for wire diagrams for each make/model
im a student and your vids helps me a lot... is there any way you could test that control unit? or any unit at all? if you can, can you make a video of it tnx
I cannot tell if my coolant fan works because I'm told it only works when engine is running under the hood unbeknownst to me. Same as possible trunk light and relay circuts.
I'm a DYI'er and its all too complex for me and I do not have the expensive equipment you have - screen and all.
I'll take it apart, of course, and do my own DYI diagnosis...then take it into the garage to get fixed for $300 - $600 fix on my car I got for nothing$. It breaks my heart.
But, not before I remove neg cable for awhile until I get my "isolation switch".
Your pretty good at explaining things to us dummies👍🏽 thank u
Not alone. I have saved alot of time troubleshooting using a diagram.
Did you ever fix the connections in the relay box? Just curious
And THANK YOU FOR ETCG1.......SIMPLY YOU ARE THE NUMBER #1....
I did not mean in this particular case with this particular manufacturer, but in general. Ok it stands to reason that if this is a common problem, then an alternative new part would be the best option.
this is why i love viscous fans.
great vid!!
Love his videos, always helpful.
Eric awesome video.
Have an intermittent problem with an 05 Honda Accrd. The radio will all of a sudden cut out but the display is still reading as if all is good. No sound but if i turn the system off then back on it usually comes back to norm. don't know if it is the speaker wiring or the radio electronics that is the problem. Any suggestions? Cd player also does not respond but display says it is playing. Will usually be alright at first drive of the day, then it will die after a few minutes
Another awesome video, keep up the great work.
Lol at 12:20 "I basically prefer to back probe"
So how did you determine the relay was working fine? Especially with the burned connectors and the continuity check reasonable.
If you didn't have an extra control module around could you just have used the power probe to supply a ground to the orange/blue wire and see if it worked then?
Контакты в управляемой цепи расплавились не из-за контроллера вентиляторов (fan control unit), они расплавились из-за высокого тока в управляемой цепи или из-за высокого сопротивления в разъёме реле или в контактах внутри реле.Такое часто случается, нужно было проверить сопротивление замкнутого реле, устранить окисления с контактов в разъёме и проверить сопротивление вентилятора (fan), высокий ток может быть вызван замыканием обмотки в вентиляторе или замыканием ротора на корпус из-за подшипника
At 1:32 when Eric dropped the relay I tried to catch it... I need my coffee...
Why was the relay socket cooked?
Thanks for your vids, EricTheCarGuy. They are informative and interesting.
I do detect a teeny touch of stefan molyneux in your manner however, which will hopefully fade away as the real you shines forth.
Thanks good video, but how do you get the wirelling diagram?
Thanks man - you are extremely helpful.
What is that unit called? I believe that is the issue I'm having my with accord where the fans will turn on immediately after the car is turned off, regardless if the car has run (i.e. cold engine); fans also don't run unless the A/C relay is engaged. I've replaced the relays and thermoswitches, so last resort, but having a hard time finding this part online. Closest junkyard is 50 miles away, but push come to shove, I'll drive it.
nvm, found some on ebay using the part number from the honda diagram. thanks for the video
Looks like this circuit board isn't burnt up or something. With a little experience it's possible to recognize the most likely reason for intermittent electrical problems on circuit boads like this, which are cold soldering joints. So if you don't want to buy a new control unit for possibly hundreds of bucks, while it's a 10bucks part, just find the cold soldering joints on the board, resolder them and bob's your uncle.
So what if the wire had been the culprit instead of the unit you replaced? Do you just run another wire along side the wire loom to bypass the faulty one? How would you go about repairing an issue like that?
I have a "parasitic draw" somewhere..I and my neighbour's did NOT react as they should @ DC 10 multi meter settings.
With out these readings, I cannot know if the fuses I removed were the culprits of the "parasitic draw".
Any ideas?
A question no ones seems to be able to answer for me. I need to replace the power distribution center (fuse box) under the hood. The horn does not work and a mechanic determined this needs replaced. The box is expensive so I found a cheaper one and want to do it myself. So the question is people have said it will need programed. But will it?
This is a 2007 sxt dodge caravan. Any info you can toss my way?
could this not also be caused by a faulty input to the module like a coolant temp sensor also?
I would be worried about frying a new module by plugging it in with a short on the input side.
I have a 97 accord lx my fans don’t turn on while driving but once I shut the car off they turn on. I jumped the thermostat switch and both the ac and cooling fan turn on , I replaced all coolant sensors and relays and fuses except for that box u mention in this video does my 97 accord have this “fan timer relay”
love your videos eric as a mechanic by trade its always useful to learn new things, i think you need to get more sleep tho as you look half asleep in this video lol
Great work. Thanks.
You're a good egg Eric, thanks
if the module is providing a ground , could you just hook a test light to battery positive and check it at the relay connector ? or would that be risky to the module?
Sir, you are the only one I know who can help me out with this car problem. The car is a range rover 1998 p38 4.6HSE and v8. Many people were invited to start the car even from a far State but the couldn't. The challenge is a crank no start, no spark,no injector pulse but good communication with a scan tool. I have added fuel to the intake manifold and crank the engine no change at all. It is not starting. In addition, I checked for spark, but there is no spark as well.
Hence, I have just checked for injector pulse but there's no injector pulse either. There is also no ignition current to the injector circuit with key ON and engine off.
All the fuses and relays are good. I also checked the injector circuit for continuity if the wire is shorted but it was ok. Scan tool communicated and showed only p1843 and p1842 code. There was no RPM during cranking. What I noticed today when I compared the ignition, earth and DC with the same car that was starting and driving to the car that was not starting, what I saw made me to flabbergasted. Where the was ignition for example in the working car there was DC in the car that was not starting. Also a particular relay circuit for example RL-2 one of the pin of the connector when my test light was on battery ground and relay removed, the pump buzzed and testlight dim but when I tried that same location with test light and same pin the test light was dim and ABS relay was actuated no buzz from pump. It is like that in many places in the fuse box and PCM circuit. Please what's the cause of the problem and what do I need to do to fix the problem?
just one question, do you have to ask people if you can use their cars in your videos??
Erick need your help.Dodge intrepid i had replace the gas pump about 3 times already and cant solve the problem,car shuts off after about 25 minutes of driving,the old pump had a male connector for a small wire,but the autopart told me that it was for simple ground for static.i tried to read the wire diagram but i can find that particular wire where it goes from the pump to who knows where. Dodge intrepid 3.2 2001 thanks for your help
YES! This vid is exactly what i need!
Power Probe is a brand from snap on. So Eric got the original Power Probe, and thats from the best quality.