One thing to mention is that the flat edges of the oil pump gear on the back of the timing cover has to be lined up with the flat sides of the crankshaft snout for the timing cover to go on smoothly.
I had a problem where one of the mounts for the alternator had broken off the timing cover. This video was the only one I could find on how to remove it and has been of incredible value! Thank you very much for posting!!
Just wanted to let you know that the repair was a complete success. Your videos really and advice really helped me out a lot. The rattle is gone and no leaks. Took me about 16 hrs. over a few days. I could have completed it in 14 hrs, but the power steering pump and water pump took longer to remove/install. I should be good for another 200K+ miles.
nice video... I was looking for some info on what was involved in doing the crank seal, and (believe it or not), this was the first place I found that info...
that seems like a hell of a job, lol, I'm used to working on 4cyl and have built, turbo'd and raced them. mini vans are a nightmare to work on. anyhow congrats on getting this thing running again. I have an 02 grand caravan that im about to tackle the same task, wish me luck lol.
One thing I do want to say this is labor intensive and time consuming, read the sections in your Haynes manual involving all things you will have to do to complete this job. Take care to clean all your gasket surfaces to bare shiny metal, getting this all together and having an oil or water leak will make you invent new ways to curse. If you don't have good tools and some experience don't tear your van apart Friday night and plan to drive it to work Monday. I don't want to scare anyone I just want you to realize what you are getting into, there is a reason this job cost around 1000 dollars at the shop!
Thanks and it's so true, this is not an easy job by any means, and our vehicle was down for several days, working on it for stretches each day. We followed the Chrysler Dealer service manual and took the time to make this video for anyone else out there who may want to try it on their own, and may not have the $1000+ to pay the dealer. The job was certainly miserable at times but now we reflect with pride to have accomplished it on our own
It's only a timing cover, run of the mill worlk for a mechanic. For DIY the only issue is access to quality tools as those on Amazon are garbage and as for the cost of the miller tool - ridiculous. If you lightly heat the crankshaft gear it will come of with a standard puller. Done many times on Caterpillars and larger engines that are even tighter. The issue is that blow torches around an engine will scare most DIYers. But if you narrow the flame and don't overheat the pulley it will pop off with more ease. We couldn't fix our equipment in Nigeria without a blow torch.
I pulled my oil pan the other day and noticed that the front of the timing chain was pretty slack, did the new chain have any slack when you put it on?
Hey man thanks for the video i dont have a timing problem just that damn nibble that sit in the back of the water pump housing that you had to cut the hose the get off my nipple just buckled like you roll up sum paper so the only thing i know to do to fix that is to replace the timing cover so good looking out
From a retired mechanic to one having fun....you really should clean the surfaces BEFORE putting new parts up. Nobody would ever do the cleaning last. It's a pain, but that's part of being a good mechanic - elbow grease and patience. Also once you had the timing cover off it would have been a good idea to change the oil pump in it. Doesn't cost much for a replacement. If your engine is so old that you are putting a new timing chain, a pump change will surely help the engine. I was looking for the miller tool setup. Thanks for showing that. I decided it's not worth the cost (currently north of $400 on ebay just for removal) I can do it the way we did it in the bush: a standard gear puller ground to fit ......or welded scrap......as my Nigerian friends would do
OK, so I'm at the point of removing the power steering pump. I removed the three bolts from the front and the one from the rear. Even though the pump is loss, I can't seem to free it from the timing chain cover. (I left both the low and high pressure lines attached to it.) I tried lowering/raising the engine too. As you said, those bolts are a pain to remove on the motor mount bracket. I'm stuck trying to remove the one towards the back of the engine. I'm going to try your method by moving my jack closer to the timing chain cover and raise the motor.
its allgood You should not need to remove the fluid lines or drain any fluid. As you probably realized, there are three bolts that attach the pump to the timing chain cover. To access those 3 bolts, you will need to rotate the pulley by hand until the holes in the pulley line up with the heads of the bolts, and then insert your socket through the hole in the pulley to access the bolts. To get to some of the bolts, we had to raise/lower the engine so that our wrench would clear the frame of the vehicle. Once all of the bolts are out, it may still be hard to remove the pump as it is wedged onto the timing chain cover. Lightly tapping the pump with a hammer should get it to free up. We then just pushed it toward the firewall and out of the way. The fluid hoses will hold it in place out of your way.
I didn't find your first video which discussed the timing chain rattle noise. wondering if my 02 has the same problem. is that video still posted. I watched part 1 and 2 but did not find the one where you talk about the engine rattle. Thanks Paul.
To the author, beachlover4123, please advise me. I only need to replace the front oil seal on my Chrysler Van 3.8L. Do I have to remove the timing chain cover? I will use a seal removal tool. The seal is leaking VERY slowly so it is not really a problem but I may want to tackle it. Your video is very good. Thanks to people like you who make these videos.
Because of time. I decided to just leave the old crankshaft gear on, since it didn't look damaged or worn. Placing the new chain and harmonic balancer on was easy and the chain is tight. Now time to reassemble everything.
Yea I changed my mind. fuck the timing chain, let it rattle. I did find going up a step in engine oil and making sure It was clean (used a cheap oil after dumping old oil, then dumping that after running the engine for half an hour, then adding final oil) helped
Once again very good video, my only Question is, is the timing cover crank seal removable / replaceable from the outside, without removing the timing cover? Thanks.
Great video. I'm attempting the same repair on our 2001 DGC. This looks pretty involved. How long did it take you and where did you get the special tools from to remove/reinstall the crankshaft pulley and gear? Thanks
its allgood Thank you. We got all of our special tools for the project from eBay, over a period of time. They are all for sale again on eBay now. I won't lie - this project was very involved and spanned the course of several days/evenings. All in all it probably took 12-18 hours, I can't recall the exact amount of time. There was a lot of starting and stopping during that time frame since we couldn't get it all done in 1 day, and a few snafus we had to work around. If I had to do it over again, I'd probably pay the $800+ to the dealership to do it, but it was a great learning experience and we hope the video will help others like yourself who want to try doing this project on their own. Best of luck to you :)
Just wanna say to anyone considering this... Mine was making the exact same noise and was driving me mad. I pinned it down to an aluminum ac line mounted to the undercarriage with a worn hanger. It only made the noise at idle just like so many others complaining of this problem. It pays to poke around a bit, mine ended up being a zero dollar fix that took 5 minutes and only cost me a burn on my arm from accidentally brushing up against the exhaust pipe when I was trying to isolate the noise :))
That's good to hear. Unfortunately this is not always the case. The easiest way you can check the timing chain would be to remove the oil pan. You can actually see it from under neath. Just stick a long thin screwdriver up in there and you will see.
So far so good. I'm now down to just having to remove the timing chain cover and crankshaft seal. Did you set the timing marks on the crankshaft and camshaft before removing the old chain and gears? How long did you wait for the gasket sealant to set before reinstalling the timing cover? Thanks. You've been a big help.
I apologize for the delay in my reply, you may have already gotten past this point but yes I did align everything before removing the timing chain and gears. As far as the gasket sealant, I let it sit for maybe 10 - 15 minutes before proceeding.
beachlover4123 no problem. Your right tgough, I did make it past that point. Instead of trying to turn the crankshaft with the pull bolt, which didn't work. I use my adjustable wrench on the two groves on the crankshaft to rotate the engine. It took some muscle, but it worked. Now I'm stuck at removing the crankshaft gear off the crankshaft. The tool I rented from Auto Zone didn't work. I need some help locating a tool to remove/reinstall this gear. Can't find anything on Google.
its allgood That gear is pressed on there really tight. I couldn't find any acceptable solution so that is why I just broke down and purchased the tool Chrysler calls for. Expensive, yes... but I was able to re-sell it on eBay and get a good portion of my money back so the cost in the end wasn't too bad. Saved a lot of headache. Even using the tool that was engineered specifically for that purpose, it took a ton of muscle. If that is not an option for you, you could always just leave the old gear in place and only change the chain.
How many miles were on the van when you had the problem. Mine has 211,000 on it. Been thinking about doing this. This week i'm doing the transmission. Best Advice I can give on that so far is PAY Someone to do it. I've been working on cars for around 30 years, I never want to do one of these again. Thanks for the post. Best wishes n Blessings Keith
The "chirp" coming from the serpentine belt is caused by the pulley not being centered on the water pump. It's a problem with aftermarket pumps that are manufactured in China (poor quality control) and is NON-correctable without actually replacing the pump.
Yes, except there might be a metal bracket on the back of the Power Steering pump. There are two bolts to remove. One that is visible on the back of the pump. The other is located on the timing chain cover. These have to be removed, in order to remove the timing chain cover.
my 05 caravan sounds exactly the same as yours thanks for the video ,ill be trying t on mine soon. Just wondering what could happen if I leave it as is, would it bow my engine up or something if I took a 12 hour trip?
Do you still have the removal and install tools for the crankshaft sprocket? Will you give me the part number for the install tool? If you still have these tools are you willing to sell them, you said you would in the video but I was not sure if you were serious!
Thanks for this video. Now I'm convinced not to do this myself. Every component on my 02 Caravan turns into a 3 day nightmare because the previous owners let rust and gunk takeover so I know Id have nothing but broken bolts every step of the way.
So in other words doesn't make sense change it ? The reason I ask you is because. My 2002 dodge caravan se v6 3.3 is being doing that noise. Thanks for your answer
@@c.g.4195 I consider the timing chain rattle to be a normal part of the charm of the 3.3/3.8. I'm on my 4th 3.3 with 200k+ miles and they all do it. Every one uses the exact same timing components sans 1 detail, in '03-04 they switched from the cam sensor teeth on the sprocket being 1-2-3-1-2-space/0 to being 1-2-3-2-1-3. I have had a 1992 Dynasty, a 1995 Grand Caravan, a 1997 Intrepid, and now a 2008 Grand Caravan. All 3.3, all the same rattle, all ran great. I like the Intrepid (LH) setup the best simply because it has 2 logical banks, IE 4 oxygen sensors so the 2 physical banks are separate as far as fuel mixture monitoring is concerned. The other applications all only have 1 logical bank with just 1 upstream oxygen sensor. The 'Trep just plain ran better as a result, but the '08 is a close second if not equal at times. Now to see if the older OSGR starter will fit on the newer 3.3 since sometime in the mid 2000s Chrysler switched that to a planetary gear reduction unit instead and I prefer the sound of the OSGR better. I still have the starter from the Dynasty and in a way having the starter from the 3rd year of the 3.3 installed on the 3rd from last year of a 20 year run would be kind of interesting.
@@c.g.4195 The camshaft is relatively heavily loaded by the valve springs and cam lobes acting sort of like detent balls, that is as each spring is being compressed the chain is driving the camshaft forward against the spring compressing it, but after the lifter passes the peak of the cam lobe suddenly the spring force is trying to drive the camshaft forward and now the chain is actually holding the camshaft back as the spring tension is released. What this ends up doing is that the chain alternates between being tight on the front/right side and the back/left side, this makes it flop around and make rattling noises.
alternator Pulley's are the #1 cause of "timing noise" on the 3.3 and 3.8l replacing the alternator pulley or alternator itself will make it as quiet as the day it came off the line
Please tell me how you replaced the old hose, on the backside of the water pump. Mine is broken and completely missing from the back of the housing, is this a metal nipple piece that the rubber hose attaches to? You talked about it in the part 1 video at about the 12:50 mark at th-cam.com/video/e6dw3YoaQA8/w-d-xo.html
For anyone who is trying this 2004 and older calls for a special tool also, that tool is a different tool than the one in this video. I tried very hard to get the special tools, I was told the tool is discontinued. I had to find a cheap way to get around the problem. The two and three jaw pullers and slide hammer I tried was just a waste of time. I used a harbor freight tool to do the job. Pittsburg item # 93980 puller/ bearing separator set. This set has 2 separators I used the smaller one.
melaniew77msn I should add that these separators have two threaded places to allow you to set up the system as a puller. Just make your own crank insert from a bolt with a head slightly bigger than the end of the crank. Just drill into the head of the bolt about 3/16ths'' deep with a 3/16 drill bit. Measure the distance from the front of the block to the back of the sprocket before pulling so when you re-install the new sprocket you get it all the way on! Use plenty of PB blaster!
melaniew77msn I used a 32 mm socket and a brass hammer to tap the new sprocket on. Lube with light oil to help. The separator kit will show you how to use it in the instruction packet as a bearing puller but you can apply that knowledge to using it to pull sprockets! If the sprocket don't tap on then put it in your oven set the oven to 250 degrees and let it gently warm for 15 minutes that will swell the metal enough to make an easy tap on fit. I took me a few days to find a way to do this with common tools. I truly hope this helps someone. I was a mechanic in the past and I will warn all DIYers this is not an easy job.
One thing to mention is that the flat edges of the oil pump gear on the back of the timing cover has to be lined up with the flat sides of the crankshaft snout for the timing cover to go on smoothly.
I had a problem where one of the mounts for the alternator had broken off the timing cover. This video was the only one I could find on how to remove it and has been of incredible value! Thank you very much for posting!!
Rob Paolucci That's great to hear! Thanks
Excellent video .I had hard time with the crankshaft sprocket. so now that I now I need the special tool , it'll be a lot easy tnax so much.
+nanomoving We're glad it was of help to you!
Just wanted to let you know that the repair was a complete success. Your videos really and advice really helped me out a lot. The rattle is gone and no leaks. Took me about 16 hrs. over a few days. I could have completed it in 14 hrs, but the power steering pump and water pump took longer to remove/install. I should be good for another 200K+ miles.
its allgood That's great to hear. It's nice to know our efforts helped out another DIY professional :) Congrats!
Thank you!
nice video... I was looking for some info on what was involved in doing the crank seal, and (believe it or not), this was the first place I found that info...
that seems like a hell of a job, lol, I'm used to working on 4cyl and have built, turbo'd and raced them. mini vans are a nightmare to work on. anyhow congrats on getting this thing running again. I have an 02 grand caravan that im about to tackle the same task, wish me luck lol.
My 2003 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.8 has a cast iron block , and the heads are aluminum .🙂
One thing I do want to say this is labor intensive and time consuming, read the sections in your Haynes manual involving all things you will have to do to complete this job. Take care to clean all your gasket surfaces to bare shiny metal, getting this all together and having an oil or water leak will make you invent new ways to curse. If you don't have good tools and some experience don't tear your van apart Friday night and plan to drive it to work Monday. I don't want to scare anyone I just want you to realize what you are getting into, there is a reason this job cost around 1000 dollars at the shop!
Thanks and it's so true, this is not an easy job by any means, and our vehicle was down for several days, working on it for stretches each day. We followed the Chrysler Dealer service manual and took the time to make this video for anyone else out there who may want to try it on their own, and may not have the $1000+ to pay the dealer. The job was certainly miserable at times but now we reflect with pride to have accomplished it on our own
It's only a timing cover, run of the mill worlk for a mechanic. For DIY the only issue is access to quality tools as those on Amazon are garbage and as for the cost of the miller tool - ridiculous. If you lightly heat the crankshaft gear it will come of with a standard puller. Done many times on Caterpillars and larger engines that are even tighter. The issue is that blow torches around an engine will scare most DIYers. But if you narrow the flame and don't overheat the pulley it will pop off with more ease. We couldn't fix our equipment in Nigeria without a blow torch.
Well done video of a challenging job.
Thank the video. How the crankshaft is fixed, to be able to tighten the pulley?
god bless you.......................... great vid....
Hey great job!
In which video is the noise that you mention that you chain was doing and the reason you replaced?
Why can't I find these special tools that you used? are there any alternatives? There must be since this is a common engine (3.3/3.8)
I pulled my oil pan the other day and noticed that the front of the timing chain was pretty slack, did the new chain have any slack when you put it on?
Is there a tensioner for the chain?
Hey man thanks for the video i dont have a timing problem just that damn nibble that sit in the back of the water pump housing that you had to cut the hose the get off my nipple just buckled like you roll up sum paper so the only thing i know to do to fix that is to replace the timing cover so good looking out
From a retired mechanic to one having fun....you really should clean the surfaces BEFORE putting new parts up. Nobody would ever do the cleaning last. It's a pain, but that's part of being a good mechanic - elbow grease and patience. Also once you had the timing cover off it would have been a good idea to change the oil pump in it. Doesn't cost much for a replacement. If your engine is so old that you are putting a new timing chain, a pump change will surely help the engine. I was looking for the miller tool setup. Thanks for showing that. I decided it's not worth the cost (currently north of $400 on ebay just for removal) I can do it the way we did it in the bush: a standard gear puller ground to fit ......or welded scrap......as my Nigerian friends would do
OK, so I'm at the point of removing the power steering pump. I removed the three bolts from the front and the one from the rear. Even though the pump is loss, I can't seem to free it from the timing chain cover. (I left both the low and high pressure lines attached to it.) I tried lowering/raising the engine too. As you said, those bolts are a pain to remove on the motor mount bracket. I'm stuck trying to remove the one towards the back of the engine. I'm going to try your method by moving my jack closer to the timing chain cover and raise the motor.
its allgood You should not need to remove the fluid lines or drain any fluid. As you probably realized, there are three bolts that attach the pump to the timing chain cover. To access those 3 bolts, you will need to rotate the pulley by hand until the holes in the pulley line up with the heads of the bolts, and then insert your socket through the hole in the pulley to access the bolts. To get to some of the bolts, we had to raise/lower the engine so that our wrench would clear the frame of the vehicle. Once all of the bolts are out, it may still be hard to remove the pump as it is wedged onto the timing chain cover. Lightly tapping the pump with a hammer should get it to free up. We then just pushed it toward the firewall and out of the way. The fluid hoses will hold it in place out of your way.
I cannot find the crank sprocket puller/ installer anywhere. Not as a kit but I can find the tool, 8539. I can't seem to find them all together.
I didn't find your first video which discussed the timing chain rattle noise. wondering if my 02 has the same problem. is that video still posted. I watched part 1 and 2 but did not find the one where you talk about the engine rattle. Thanks Paul.
Here as well. The first video is nowhere to be found...
To the author, beachlover4123, please advise me. I only need to replace the front oil seal on my Chrysler Van 3.8L. Do I have to remove the timing chain cover? I will use a seal removal tool. The seal is leaking VERY slowly so it is not really a problem but I may want to tackle it. Your video is very good. Thanks to people like you who make these videos.
I can't seem to find that tool can u help me
Because of time. I decided to just leave the old crankshaft gear on, since it didn't look damaged or worn. Placing the new chain and harmonic balancer on was easy and the chain is tight. Now time to reassemble everything.
crankshaft pully/harmonic balancer bolt torque specs? I cant find it!! 2007 chrysler town and cxountry
How many miles were on the engine
Yea I changed my mind. fuck the timing chain, let it rattle. I did find going up a step in engine oil and making sure It was clean (used a cheap oil after dumping old oil, then dumping that after running the engine for half an hour, then adding final oil) helped
Once again very good video, my only Question is, is the timing cover crank seal removable / replaceable from the outside, without removing the timing cover? Thanks.
Yes, it goes in a housing on the front side of the timing cover.
Great video. I'm attempting the same repair on our 2001 DGC. This looks pretty involved. How long did it take you and where did you get the special tools from to remove/reinstall the crankshaft pulley and gear? Thanks
its allgood Thank you. We got all of our special tools for the project from eBay, over a period of time. They are all for sale again on eBay now. I won't lie - this project was very involved and spanned the course of several days/evenings. All in all it probably took 12-18 hours, I can't recall the exact amount of time. There was a lot of starting and stopping during that time frame since we couldn't get it all done in 1 day, and a few snafus we had to work around. If I had to do it over again, I'd probably pay the $800+ to the dealership to do it, but it was a great learning experience and we hope the video will help others like yourself who want to try doing this project on their own. Best of luck to you :)
No timing chain guide/ dampner?
I have a 3 claw puller so I'm hoping that works
Need to know where does the hose on the back of your water pump run to/from? Mine has a rubber cap that's cracked.
That's a HVAC heater hose.
Did you torque the crankshaft pulley bolt? If so what are the specs?
Francisco j Garcia Ayala 40 Foot-pounds.
Just wanna say to anyone considering this... Mine was making the exact same noise and was driving me mad. I pinned it down to an aluminum ac line mounted to the undercarriage with a worn hanger. It only made the noise at idle just like so many others complaining of this problem. It pays to poke around a bit, mine ended up being a zero dollar fix that took 5 minutes and only cost me a burn on my arm from accidentally brushing up against the exhaust pipe when I was trying to isolate the noise :))
That's good to hear. Unfortunately this is not always the case. The easiest way you can check the timing chain would be to remove the oil pan. You can actually see it from under neath. Just stick a long thin screwdriver up in there and you will see.
So far so good. I'm now down to just having to remove the timing chain cover and crankshaft seal. Did you set the timing marks on the crankshaft and camshaft before removing the old chain and gears? How long did you wait for the gasket sealant to set before reinstalling the timing cover? Thanks. You've been a big help.
I apologize for the delay in my reply, you may have already gotten past this point but yes I did align everything before removing the timing chain and gears. As far as the gasket sealant, I let it sit for maybe 10 - 15 minutes before proceeding.
beachlover4123 no problem. Your right tgough, I did make it past that point. Instead of trying to turn the crankshaft with the pull bolt, which didn't work. I use my adjustable wrench on the two groves on the crankshaft to rotate the engine. It took some muscle, but it worked. Now I'm stuck at removing the crankshaft gear off the crankshaft. The tool I rented from Auto Zone didn't work. I need some help locating a tool to remove/reinstall this gear. Can't find anything on Google.
its allgood That gear is pressed on there really tight. I couldn't find any acceptable solution so that is why I just broke down and purchased the tool Chrysler calls for. Expensive, yes... but I was able to re-sell it on eBay and get a good portion of my money back so the cost in the end wasn't too bad. Saved a lot of headache. Even using the tool that was engineered specifically for that purpose, it took a ton of muscle. If that is not an option for you, you could always just leave the old gear in place and only change the chain.
Great video, thanks for doing these. By chance do you still have special tools for sale?
No, sorry. We sold them after the project was done.
How many miles were on the van when you had the problem. Mine has 211,000 on it. Been thinking about doing this. This week i'm doing the transmission. Best Advice I can give on that so far is PAY Someone to do it. I've been working on cars for around 30 years, I never want to do one of these again. Thanks for the post. Best wishes n Blessings Keith
Mine has 125 K on it, kind of noisy during cold cranking but after I let it idle for a few second the noise goes off.
How long did it take to change everything out and be up and running again?
I think the entire project took about 14-15 hours in labor. That was spread out over several days with 2 of us, having little experience as mechanics.
you seem calm and collective. do you do this sort of thing for a living?
+scooter12368 Nowhere near it, which just goes to show anyone can do something like this!
The "chirp" coming from the serpentine belt is caused by the pulley not being centered on the water pump. It's a problem with aftermarket pumps that are manufactured in China (poor quality control) and is NON-correctable without actually replacing the pump.
how many miles did the van have when you did this?
I think it was around 175k
Would it basically be the same process for a 3.8?
Yes
Yes, except there might be a metal bracket on the back of the Power Steering pump. There are two bolts to remove. One that is visible on the back of the pump. The other is located on the timing chain cover. These have to be removed, in order to remove the timing chain cover.
You think these timing chains would last longer? These 3.3 Liters are noisy engines so be sure you get right diagnosis!
my 05 caravan sounds exactly the same as yours thanks for the video ,ill be trying t on mine soon. Just wondering what could happen if I leave it as is, would it bow my engine up or something if I took a 12 hour trip?
+Hanss Lopez You should be fine. We took several long distance road trips in our van before doing this replacement.
Wow, do I feel stupid, just watched further along (9.48) and see your description of the seal replacement, sorry to waste your time, thanks again.
No problem! Best of luck!
Did you ever sell the tool?
Yes we sold the tools on eBay after the job was complete.
ok, thanks for letting me know
Do you still have the removal and install tools for the crankshaft sprocket? Will you give me the part number for the install tool? If you still have these tools are you willing to sell them, you said you would in the video but I was not sure if you were serious!
No I'm sorry I have already sold the removal tools
Can I pay you to do this for my van
Thanks for this video. Now I'm convinced not to do this myself. Every component on my 02 Caravan turns into a 3 day nightmare because the previous owners let rust and gunk takeover so I know Id have nothing but broken bolts every step of the way.
Been driving my van with that noise for years. It will be back soon just watch. Sometimes right off the lot they have that sound.
So in other words doesn't make sense change it ? The reason I ask you is because. My 2002 dodge caravan se v6 3.3 is being doing that noise. Thanks for your answer
@@c.g.4195 I consider the timing chain rattle to be a normal part of the charm of the 3.3/3.8. I'm on my 4th 3.3 with 200k+ miles and they all do it. Every one uses the exact same timing components sans 1 detail, in '03-04 they switched from the cam sensor teeth on the sprocket being 1-2-3-1-2-space/0 to being 1-2-3-2-1-3. I have had a 1992 Dynasty, a 1995 Grand Caravan, a 1997 Intrepid, and now a 2008 Grand Caravan. All 3.3, all the same rattle, all ran great.
I like the Intrepid (LH) setup the best simply because it has 2 logical banks, IE 4 oxygen sensors so the 2 physical banks are separate as far as fuel mixture monitoring is concerned. The other applications all only have 1 logical bank with just 1 upstream oxygen sensor. The 'Trep just plain ran better as a result, but the '08 is a close second if not equal at times.
Now to see if the older OSGR starter will fit on the newer 3.3 since sometime in the mid 2000s Chrysler switched that to a planetary gear reduction unit instead and I prefer the sound of the OSGR better. I still have the starter from the Dynasty and in a way having the starter from the 3rd year of the 3.3 installed on the 3rd from last year of a 20 year run would be kind of interesting.
@@danielthechskid oh i c but what can be the reason for that noise ?🤷♂️
@@c.g.4195 The camshaft is relatively heavily loaded by the valve springs and cam lobes acting sort of like detent balls, that is as each spring is being compressed the chain is driving the camshaft forward against the spring compressing it, but after the lifter passes the peak of the cam lobe suddenly the spring force is trying to drive the camshaft forward and now the chain is actually holding the camshaft back as the spring tension is released. What this ends up doing is that the chain alternates between being tight on the front/right side and the back/left side, this makes it flop around and make rattling noises.
alternator Pulley's are the #1 cause of "timing noise" on the 3.3 and 3.8l replacing the alternator pulley or alternator itself will make it as quiet as the day it came off the line
I though about replacing the bearings, I ordered from Ebay.
I still hear the rattling
Please tell me how you replaced the old hose, on the backside of the water pump. Mine is broken and completely missing from the back of the housing, is this a metal nipple piece that the rubber hose attaches to? You talked about it in the part 1 video at about the 12:50 mark at th-cam.com/video/e6dw3YoaQA8/w-d-xo.html
You talked about it in the first video, part 1. At the 12:50 mark
Yes, it's been awhile, but I believe it was a metal nipple
Thank you so much, I actually just found one today at the dealership for 12 bucks. Saved me $800 for a new timing cover Lol
For anyone who is trying this 2004 and older calls for a special tool also, that tool is a different tool than the one in this video. I tried very hard to get the special tools, I was told the tool is discontinued. I had to find a cheap way to get around the problem. The two and three jaw pullers and slide hammer I tried was just a waste of time. I used a harbor freight tool to do the job. Pittsburg item # 93980 puller/ bearing separator set. This set has 2 separators I used the smaller one.
melaniew77msn I should add that these separators have two threaded places to allow you to set up the system as a puller. Just make your own crank insert from a bolt with a head slightly bigger than the end of the crank. Just drill into the head of the bolt about 3/16ths'' deep with a 3/16 drill bit. Measure the distance from the front of the block to the back of the sprocket before pulling so when you re-install the new sprocket you get it all the way on! Use plenty of PB blaster!
melaniew77msn I used a 32 mm socket and a brass hammer to tap the new sprocket on. Lube with light oil to help. The separator kit will show you how to use it in the instruction packet as a bearing puller but you can apply that knowledge to using it to pull sprockets! If the sprocket don't tap on then put it in your oven set the oven to 250 degrees and let it gently warm for 15 minutes that will swell the metal enough to make an easy tap on fit. I took me a few days to find a way to do this with common tools. I truly hope this helps someone. I was a mechanic in the past and I will warn all DIYers this is not an easy job.