So glad to see you waving hands as before. Hoping your recovery went the best way. Thank you for all these years making me (us) less lame in glass/paint work!
Fantastic video, BoatworksToday. Looking forward to seeing your next upload from you. I smashed that thumbs up button on your content. Keep up the awesome work! Your tips on maintaining optimal surface temperatures for painting in cooler weather were incredibly useful. Have you considered discussing the best practices for selecting paints that are specifically designed for low-temperature applications?
Lots of good tips here. My issue is related to solvent pop. I seem to be having a continuous issue with getting imperfections in my awlgrip finish. At first I thought it was dirt specs but I had a person recently tell me that it isn’t dirt but solvent pop. I understand that to mean the paint skins over before all of the reducer/solvent can escape. Any tips for cutting down on that? I’m painting in a garage at 65-75 degrees. I have removed any air sources (fans, cross breezes). Still happens. Any tips would be appreciated or maybe a follow on video suggestion.
take a look into the type of reducer being used, as well as confirm the amount of reducer that you're able to add. If spraying the material in those temps, you should be using their T0003 medium reducer. If rolling then it should be T0031
What about using a infrared Thermometer to check surface temps? Don't own one yet I feel that might be a good tool to have if accurate? Any recommendations on one better then another? Planning concrete coating project, temps dropping in SC now and this coating has a temp range. Tips right on time! Thank you!
I had that in my script to mention but it somehow got skipped over :-/ One of those laser temperature guns is perfect for measuring the surface temp. Doesn't need to be anything fancy, most BBQ places will have them for temping their griddle or grill :-)
I use one in Scotland. I have to frequently paint out in even freezing conditions. The secret is to have the surface at an acceptable temp and really heat the paint and the gun/hose etc. Believe it or not smaller compressors that need to charge a lot spray longer out in freezing before you get cobwebs shooting out the gun. The key is have everything warm then after you get it on you dont really need a lot of heat just airflow. You need the airflow to keep condensation from forming while its on the bond phase after the flow phase. If you dont pay attention to that part you will have a 4-5yr finish not a 10+yr finish. In UK we have waterbased epoxy paints now that dont care if they get wet or cold it only acts as a reducer and maybe an extra days dry time if its in Freezing conditions. We also get powder bound and use only proper epoxy on field repairs. Poly and Vinyl shrink way way too much here in winter if applied outside.
Be VERY CAREFUL when using a combustion type space heater in an enclosed area, like inside a boat hull. The byproducts of combustion are carbon dioxide and carbon monoxide. Both will displace oxygen in your blood stream and can overwhelm you quickly and silently, leading to suffocation.
Especially a carbon monoxide alarm is a very good purchase. The problem with that might be that you can't run your diesel or propane heater at all indoors because it always produces some CO even when properly adjusted as the sensors are very sensitive. Personally I would never run an open-loop combustion heater indoors unless I could have at least a door and a window open. I would fee much much safer using a model that vents most of the exhaust outside (they're never 100% leakage tight though.)
For anyone who might be thinking about consultation from Andy, I would 110% recommend. Then videos are very valuable as a resource, but the consultation is an " invaluable " resource that will pay for itself in time and not having to re do or waste materials.
I believe Andy is referring to an oil filled electric radiator not a combustion as that would also create a fire hazard while painting due to paint offgassing
So glad to see you waving hands as before. Hoping your recovery went the best way. Thank you for all these years making me (us) less lame in glass/paint work!
Good to see your shoulders are recovering nicely.
Slowly but surely :-)
Fantastic video, BoatworksToday. Looking forward to seeing your next upload from you. I smashed that thumbs up button on your content. Keep up the awesome work! Your tips on maintaining optimal surface temperatures for painting in cooler weather were incredibly useful. Have you considered discussing the best practices for selecting paints that are specifically designed for low-temperature applications?
Lots of good tips here. My issue is related to solvent pop. I seem to be having a continuous issue with getting imperfections in my awlgrip finish. At first I thought it was dirt specs but I had a person recently tell me that it isn’t dirt but solvent pop. I understand that to mean the paint skins over before all of the reducer/solvent can escape. Any tips for cutting down on that? I’m painting in a garage at 65-75 degrees. I have removed any air sources (fans, cross breezes). Still happens. Any tips would be appreciated or maybe a follow on video suggestion.
take a look into the type of reducer being used, as well as confirm the amount of reducer that you're able to add. If spraying the material in those temps, you should be using their T0003 medium reducer. If rolling then it should be T0031
What about using a infrared Thermometer to check surface temps? Don't own one yet I feel that might be a good tool to have if accurate? Any recommendations on one better then another? Planning concrete coating project, temps dropping in SC now and this coating has a temp range. Tips right on time! Thank you!
I had that in my script to mention but it somehow got skipped over :-/ One of those laser temperature guns is perfect for measuring the surface temp. Doesn't need to be anything fancy, most BBQ places will have them for temping their griddle or grill :-)
I use one in Scotland. I have to frequently paint out in even freezing conditions. The secret is to have the surface at an acceptable temp and really heat the paint and the gun/hose etc. Believe it or not smaller compressors that need to charge a lot spray longer out in freezing before you get cobwebs shooting out the gun. The key is have everything warm then after you get it on you dont really need a lot of heat just airflow. You need the airflow to keep condensation from forming while its on the bond phase after the flow phase. If you dont pay attention to that part you will have a 4-5yr finish not a 10+yr finish. In UK we have waterbased epoxy paints now that dont care if they get wet or cold it only acts as a reducer and maybe an extra days dry time if its in Freezing conditions. We also get powder bound and use only proper epoxy on field repairs. Poly and Vinyl shrink way way too much here in winter if applied outside.
Project Farm just did a review a few weeks ago. Not all do well with cooler surfaces. Don't know if that helps you.
What's the purest white paint Alexseal makes? Matterhorn?
probably snow white :-) T9134
@boatworkstoday thank you! Just looking for a crisp pure white.
Best place to buy Alexseal? Appreciate all your videos!
I am a retailer for them :-) www.millerboatworks.com TY! Any Q's please let me know!
I'm in Oklahoma now. I feel like I'm the only person that enjoys temperatures below 80°F.
Be VERY CAREFUL when using a combustion type space heater in an enclosed area, like inside a boat hull. The byproducts of combustion are carbon dioxide and carbon monoxide. Both will displace oxygen in your blood stream and can overwhelm you quickly and silently, leading to suffocation.
Especially a carbon monoxide alarm is a very good purchase. The problem with that might be that you can't run your diesel or propane heater at all indoors because it always produces some CO even when properly adjusted as the sensors are very sensitive. Personally I would never run an open-loop combustion heater indoors unless I could have at least a door and a window open. I would fee much much safer using a model that vents most of the exhaust outside (they're never 100% leakage tight though.)
For anyone who might be thinking about consultation from Andy, I would 110% recommend. Then videos are very valuable as a resource, but the consultation is an " invaluable " resource that will pay for itself in time and not having to re do or waste materials.
I believe Andy is referring to an oil filled electric radiator not a combustion as that would also create a fire hazard while painting due to paint offgassing
Exactly :-)!