I am a sienna owner and looking into what to use to charge my 200 ah agm. I'd like to thank you for putting yourself out there and testing and showing the results.
I was able to fit 3 100w flexible panels on the same van. I wanted just 1 300w+ panel but all of them exceeded my charge controller voc threshold. 3 100w panels in parallel keeps the voc within spec, and gives the same wattage. Just under the amp rating for 15AWG cables and my controller.
@@AdventureGearTV I haven't mounted them yet. I have only fit them. I tried to get away with a single 100w ridged panel, but that isn't enough power unless it is a sunny day in the middle of the summer. To mount the flexible panels: for each panel I cut a piece of coroplast board the size of the panel including holes at the grommet points. I reinforced the holes on the coroplast with 2 layers of gorilla tape, with washers between the layers. The bottom washers are to resist upwards force, the top washer lateral force. Therefore the top washers were first glued with loctite before being covered with the second layer of gorilla duct tape. Also the panel bolt heads are under the second layer of gorilla duct tape. Since that part is already reinforced by the roof, and to discourage spinning or loosening from vibrations. The entire mounting plate is spray painted black on the top (both for cosmetic and heat absorption,) the sides, and just along the edges on the underside. The idea is that heat will be absorbed by the top, and reflected back through the corrugation by the white underside. Also the underside of the coroplast mounts probably should not be painted because then the bond would be VHB to paint, and the paint would be the weak point in the connection. The primary reason for not painting the bottoms. The roof will be cleaned with 70% isopropyl. Then the corrugated panels will be attached to the van roof with 3M VHB heavy industrial tape, which is supposed to be impossible to remove without a special solvent. Then the panels are bolted down to the coroplast mounts and the nuts given loctite. They better not come off!
@@AdventureGearTV The real trick is just getting them to fit. The panel length is with width of the roof. But with the OEM roof rails it isn't possible to lay 3 panels across the roof side-by-side. 1 panel lays across the back, the other two run along the length of the van toward the front with their center overlapping and sharing the same grommet mounting point. I might put a strip of gorilla duct tape across the fronts of the panels just to stop wind sheer from getting underneath while driving. Taping from the roof to the panel. Not sure if it will be necessary. 3M VHB is supposed to be awesome.
So I have a CPAP and use two 35ah ( 1 each night ) batteries and swap them out always having a backup if something goes wrong with charging. I have a 150 watt foldable solar panel which will recharge them but because I was never in the same place very long so I didn't use it and instead just charged them as I drove with an inverter. There is a lot of interest in the "solar generators" but at the end of the day they are batteries with a built in inverter. My point, the "generators" are too small for my needs and the setup I have is similar yet cheaper. The other options you have is to attach solar panels on the roof of your vehicle and/or a spendy system like many use for RV's. If you're lugging this equipment out in the woods I would definitely use the solar generators system as they are lighter but you have limited battery storage. Cool video, you went through many things that the companies selling these things don't do well.
Sounds like a good setup. If it works, there is no reason to change anything. I think a 1000wh power station would be the right size all in one if you ever need to upgrade. But, as you stated, there is a big cost.
Sure, its like 300% markup but it is a better contained unit for sure. The other thing is when a Jackery or whatever fails you have to by another one where with my setup you just replace one of three things hopefully. My perception is that proprietary stuff makes things easier yet harder. Thanks for the reply dude, I almost bought a system similar to what your vid was on but once I realized the cost I chose a simpler path for me I guess.
@@mikepotter4109 my first system was a full battery, charge controller, inverter setup, but I needed it to be quickly removable. If I had a full size van, 3-4 100ah batteries could power me for weeks. Another issue is my setup is not reliable in extreme temps due to protection features. No charging in extreme cold. Extreme heat can be damaging as well.
Thank you. I like to keep the pace moving and cut any mumbling. Sometimes I watch the videos, and I can see that my eyes are looking at the wrong spot on the phone, I wear the sunglasses so you won’t notice it. I film on the iPhone and sometimes use a GoPro.
I have a dodge Grand caravan. Instead of putting a glass solar panel on the roof, I put a 100 watt flexible panel on my dashboard. It doesn't attract as much attention, and it won't be damaged by weather or vandals
One thing most people don't consider is the input capacity of their solar battery I have the goal zero solar battery but it will only take 90 Watts maximum from the solar input... I do have 250 Watts worth of solar panels but that's only for shady days even if I'm collecting 250 watts of sun I can still only put a maximum of 90 continuous watts into the system... Check the input ratings of your solar batteries also remember the solar input capacity will be different than the DC and AC input capacity... It might not pay to buy a bunch of solar panels if you can't get the energy into your battery
Why did you not drill a hole? Any leaks? Do you still have it on your van? Do you leave it on year round? I just picked up a bougeRV panel because of your vid :)
Holy moly. That is alot of fancy stuff. I guess I need to upgrade from buying batteries at the local dollar store. Thanks for the informative video and always remember to follow your nose.
Is there really an advantage to have a 180W if you would only use external batteries ? as they seem to only accept 40, 50W Would 100W be enough if only one batteries was used ?
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Solar Panel Install HERE: th-cam.com/video/UmLnN66xdZs/w-d-xo.html
4:55 this actually happened to me. BougeRV actually reversed my connectors. lol I am thankful for this video because of that information. :)
I am a sienna owner and looking into what to use to charge my 200 ah agm. I'd like to thank you for putting yourself out there and testing and showing the results.
That’s a lot of battery. Might be able to squeeze two panels on the roof if you’re not too worried about stealth.
Why not a DC to DC charger? 20-50A and options for solar
I was able to fit 3 100w flexible panels on the same van. I wanted just 1 300w+ panel but all of them exceeded my charge controller voc threshold.
3 100w panels in parallel keeps the voc within spec, and gives the same wattage. Just under the amp rating for 15AWG cables and my controller.
Do you have issues keeping the flexible panels mounted?
@@AdventureGearTV I haven't mounted them yet. I have only fit them. I tried to get away with a single 100w ridged panel, but that isn't enough power unless it is a sunny day in the middle of the summer.
To mount the flexible panels: for each panel I cut a piece of coroplast board the size of the panel including holes at the grommet points. I reinforced the holes on the coroplast with 2 layers of gorilla tape, with washers between the layers. The bottom washers are to resist upwards force, the top washer lateral force. Therefore the top washers were first glued with loctite before being covered with the second layer of gorilla duct tape. Also the panel bolt heads are under the second layer of gorilla duct tape. Since that part is already reinforced by the roof, and to discourage spinning or loosening from vibrations. The entire mounting plate is spray painted black on the top (both for cosmetic and heat absorption,) the sides, and just along the edges on the underside. The idea is that heat will be absorbed by the top, and reflected back through the corrugation by the white underside. Also the underside of the coroplast mounts probably should not be painted because then the bond would be VHB to paint, and the paint would be the weak point in the connection. The primary reason for not painting the bottoms.
The roof will be cleaned with 70% isopropyl. Then the corrugated panels will be attached to the van roof with 3M VHB heavy industrial tape, which is supposed to be impossible to remove without a special solvent. Then the panels are bolted down to the coroplast mounts and the nuts given loctite.
They better not come off!
@@AdventureGearTV The real trick is just getting them to fit.
The panel length is with width of the roof. But with the OEM roof rails it isn't possible to lay 3 panels across the roof side-by-side. 1 panel lays across the back, the other two run along the length of the van toward the front with their center overlapping and sharing the same grommet mounting point.
I might put a strip of gorilla duct tape across the fronts of the panels just to stop wind sheer from getting underneath while driving. Taping from the roof to the panel. Not sure if it will be necessary. 3M VHB is supposed to be awesome.
Thanks for sharing this. Looking forward to the installation.
Thank you!
So I have a CPAP and use two 35ah ( 1 each night ) batteries and swap them out always having a backup if something goes wrong with charging. I have a 150 watt foldable solar panel which will recharge them but because I was never in the same place very long so I didn't use it and instead just charged them as I drove with an inverter. There is a lot of interest in the "solar generators" but at the end of the day they are batteries with a built in inverter. My point, the "generators" are too small for my needs and the setup I have is similar yet cheaper. The other options you have is to attach solar panels on the roof of your vehicle and/or a spendy system like many use for RV's. If you're lugging this equipment out in the woods I would definitely use the solar generators system as they are lighter but you have limited battery storage.
Cool video, you went through many things that the companies selling these things don't do well.
Sounds like a good setup. If it works, there is no reason to change anything. I think a 1000wh power station would be the right size all in one if you ever need to upgrade. But, as you stated, there is a big cost.
Sure, its like 300% markup but it is a better contained unit for sure. The other thing is when a Jackery or whatever fails you have to by another one where with my setup you just replace one of three things hopefully. My perception is that proprietary stuff makes things easier yet harder.
Thanks for the reply dude, I almost bought a system similar to what your vid was on but once I realized the cost I chose a simpler path for me I guess.
@@mikepotter4109 my first system was a full battery, charge controller, inverter setup, but I needed it to be quickly removable. If I had a full size van, 3-4 100ah batteries could power me for weeks. Another issue is my setup is not reliable in extreme temps due to protection features. No charging in extreme cold. Extreme heat can be damaging as well.
That's a big system, lol, the 35ah are fairly light scooter batteries with handles
Great video sir...Very interesting content..Happy Tavels..
Hi, thank you so much!
Good video. Thanks for all that info👍
Thank you!
Very nice video. Nice editing, sound, and good pace. I didn't have to speed it up. 😎 And I love/hate the glasses.
Thank you. I like to keep the pace moving and cut any mumbling. Sometimes I watch the videos, and I can see that my eyes are looking at the wrong spot on the phone, I wear the sunglasses so you won’t notice it. I film on the iPhone and sometimes use a GoPro.
I was hoping you install on your van.
I installed it in the next video, check it out here: th-cam.com/video/UmLnN66xdZs/w-d-xo.html
Great thanks let me check it out!
I have a dodge Grand caravan. Instead of putting a glass solar panel on the roof, I put a 100 watt flexible panel on my dashboard. It doesn't attract as much attention, and it won't be damaged by weather or vandals
Nice. I still have the same panel on the roof. No issues a year later.
Does it work just as good through the glass? That's a great idea!
BougeRV is an off brand 180W You can get flexible solar panels that will fit the van from door to door, not front to back.
No issues with this solar panel a year later.
One thing most people don't consider is the input capacity of their solar battery I have the goal zero solar battery but it will only take 90 Watts maximum from the solar input... I do have 250 Watts worth of solar panels but that's only for shady days even if I'm collecting 250 watts of sun I can still only put a maximum of 90 continuous watts into the system... Check the input ratings of your solar batteries also remember the solar input capacity will be different than the DC and AC input capacity... It might not pay to buy a bunch of solar panels if you can't get the energy into your battery
Important point to remember.
What kind of glasses do you have
Nike Circuits.
Panel covering reducing efficiency is caused by having polycrystalline panels. Monocrystalline panels are better; each cell is independent.
Why did you not drill a hole? Any leaks? Do you still have it on your van? Do you leave it on year round? I just picked up a bougeRV panel because of your vid :)
I had it on there until a few months ago when I sold the van. I kind of regret it, because of how convenient the van was. But, I have a Jeep now.
Holy moly. That is alot of fancy stuff. I guess I need to upgrade from buying batteries at the local dollar store. Thanks for the informative video and always remember to follow your nose.
If your system works, no need for upgrades.
BEST!
Nice!
Watch from Malaysia. A Solar panel made in Malaysia.
Interesting, right? I was surprised to see Malaysia on the box. Is there a big solar industry in Malaysia?
Malaysia is a major hub for solar equipment manufacturing.
how many solar panels would it take to power a xbox 360 s a 32 inch flatscreen tv and a vcr?
You would need a battery also. Those two things take around 100w to power.
HEY, I LOVE IT! CAN I GET A HOLD OF YOU SOME HOW? I WANT TO BUY A NEW MINIVAN AND DO ALL OF THIS TOO. I LIVE IN USA, IS IT POSSIBLE YOU CAN HELP ME?
I am just now seeing this message for the first time. Did you get everything figured out?
Is there really an advantage to have a 180W if you would only use external batteries ? as they seem to only accept 40, 50W
Would 100W be enough if only one batteries was used ?
I use all of the power some times.
Any reason ur not going into a mppt controller first? My 100w panel has been going ten years..
Hi each of the power stations has a built in controller. The two Oupes units have MPPT.
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Thanks so much for reaching out. You have a great line up for overlanding vehicles.
@@AdventureGearTV Appreciated! Hopefully we could do some sponsorship when you have time for it!
Hang onto your hat because Perovskite panels are coming in the near future, with more than double the amount of generation per square inch of panel.
Thanks for this. I just read up on Perovskite. Maybe in a few years we’ll see them in production. Very interesting.
@@AdventureGearTV - They are already in limited production. How long it takes to scale is anyone's guess.
After listening to this I don't think solar is gonna work