Appreciate your video and as always your humor. One thing I have "learned" the hard way but rarely see mentioned in drawer instruction videos is the cabinet the drawers are installed in. If your cabinet is not square and it's interior dimensions are not known accurately all the care and skill put into the drawer construction will be for naught.
Adding a 1/32" to the half inch is the first I hear that. *Wood* have made my life much easier last year when I made my drawer system. "That's GOLD, Jerry! ” 😄
Somewhere between intermediate and advanced I'd put the quarter-quarter-quarter method. It's simple to make since it needs only a single table saw setup for all the dados, grooves, and rabbets. The drawers are also very robust since the front of the box is mechanically locked in via blind rabbets.
Great tutorial Scott. As always, love your dry humor. I’ve often caught myself being impressed w/ how long-lasting a build is, only to come back to reality & imagine your reference to grand kids & trash day. Love it.
Material pricing is so interesting and it shows how naturally available materials affect prices. You say in the intro Birch ply is cheaper than Pine. It's the opposite here, Interior/furniture grade Pine plywood is ~100 USD and Birch usually starts at 400 (for 16-18mm and up)
It wasn't cheaper than pine, but the pine wasn't available at the time. So I got what is sometimes referred to as "chinese birch" ply, which is no where near the same quality as Baltic Birch ply.
Nice drawers, cnc'ing those out of plywood also works well. About that mailing list - just post videos here, because you can't give me a single reason why I should give you my email.
Full agree that rabbets aren't necessarily "self-squaring". Maybe if you got everything exactly perfect on every single cut they would be but there's always the possibility of introducing errors. And then you can always get things cattywampus while clamping.
Th orange big box stores in my area sell something called 'Sande Plywood'. Not sandeD plywood, but Sande (no second "d") It only comes in 2'x4' sheets in 1/4" (6mm), 1/2" (12mm) and 3/4" (18mm) thicknesses. It's relatively inexpensive, overall good quality, looks good, and cut's nicely. The panels are true to size and square on all corners, AND it weighs 35% - 40% lighter than baltic birch plywood. I've been using in place of baltic birch and am happy with the results so far.
Great timing. I'm just about to build some shop drawers and trying to decide where to spend the time/money and where to just send it. Did you wind up installing the secret walnut drawer somewhere? I'm curious to see its fit/function without hardware or drawer front.
I always find myself fighting the cabinet. I built a cabinet to put on the lower shelf of my bench and trying to shim it so its not twisted is hell. Any tips for identifying the high/low spots causing the twist?
The advertisement read was pretty good. I don't remember who you were advertising for now that the video is over, but that have to feel like they got a good ad read from you (though I guess it defeats the purpose if I don't remember who the ad read was for?). Great job! I was entertained during the ad read!
You should probably point out that the reason why Baltic Birch is so expensive is that it's a product of Russia and under a 100% tariff. Then people who have a moral problem with Russian products can avoid it.
@@ScottWalshWoodworking .. I am sure it will be fine, but if i get to be a bit anal about it :D expansion is not the problem for this orientation, shrinkage is :) .. if it shrinks it is likely to start to rattle since it will not be as snug in the grooves and if it shrinks a lot it might fall out :) .. oriented 90 degrees you get a full material thickness worth of room for movement. way more than you have now. so it is always the more safe option. (if you take care and not fasten it in the back to hard like i have done and have it crack ... )
While it may be fun and/or interesting to make joints more advanced than butt or rebate, for draw boxes with false fronts it seems overly complicated. I spend zero time looking at the sides of draw boxes, thus I only care about robustness along with ease and speed of construction and assembly. A locking rebate is good fit for all of those criteria.
"Esher-PAINTING".......?!?! Esher used a lot of media for his designs, but I don't recall paint being one of them.... He was NOT a painter. He personally abhorred being called that(or even "artist"), preferring to call himself a "Graphicus"(graphic designer).
I dont care too much about the advertisement, but the delivery was great. Got some chuckles out of me.
Appreciate your video and as always your humor. One thing I have "learned" the hard way but rarely see mentioned in drawer instruction videos is the cabinet the drawers are installed in. If your cabinet is not square and it's interior dimensions are not known accurately all the care and skill put into the drawer construction will be for naught.
If you had the grain running the other direction in the bonus drawer bottom that would allow for movement if the attachment point was a slot.
My god, those "beginner", "intermediate", "advanced" signs are so good. I can't believe how readable they are with such a busy set.
Literally thought they were 3D graphics for at least a minute. Very convincing.
well they are 3D graphics... just exported to a 3D printer 😂
Love the "Passage to Bangkok" nod. 😁
Adding a 1/32" to the half inch is the first I hear that. *Wood* have made my life much easier last year when I made my drawer system.
"That's GOLD, Jerry! ” 😄
Somewhere between intermediate and advanced I'd put the quarter-quarter-quarter method. It's simple to make since it needs only a single table saw setup for all the dados, grooves, and rabbets. The drawers are also very robust since the front of the box is mechanically locked in via blind rabbets.
That ad read was hilarious. I always love when you put that little extra into your edits 😅
Elitist drawer maker! What about the lowly pocket screw?! Yeah, I said it, pocket screw. LOL Great video.
Bow to your overlord, Kreg.
Seems like it could have been one of the options though
Great tutorial Scott. As always, love your dry humor. I’ve often caught myself being impressed w/ how long-lasting a build is, only to come back to reality & imagine your reference to grand kids & trash day. Love it.
Dovetails: "Making it sturdier for when your grandkids put it out on garbage day." Good chuckle out of that one...that turns into tears. Truth hurts.
Haha, that line cracked me up too!
I give you a 10/10 for video quality and editing skills.
Material pricing is so interesting and it shows how naturally available materials affect prices. You say in the intro Birch ply is cheaper than Pine. It's the opposite here, Interior/furniture grade Pine plywood is ~100 USD and Birch usually starts at 400 (for 16-18mm and up)
It wasn't cheaper than pine, but the pine wasn't available at the time. So I got what is sometimes referred to as "chinese birch" ply, which is no where near the same quality as Baltic Birch ply.
I always dovetail the sides directly into the drawer front, from the bottom up. Very clean and it no longer looks like a box.
thanks for keeping the mistake in, helps me be less angry at myself knowing you do it too :D
Nice drawers, cnc'ing those out of plywood also works well.
About that mailing list - just post videos here, because you can't give me a single reason why I should give you my email.
Full agree that rabbets aren't necessarily "self-squaring". Maybe if you got everything exactly perfect on every single cut they would be but there's always the possibility of introducing errors. And then you can always get things cattywampus while clamping.
your ad was amazing!
The ad was awesome!!!!!!
Th orange big box stores in my area sell something called 'Sande Plywood'. Not sandeD plywood, but Sande (no second "d") It only comes in 2'x4' sheets in 1/4" (6mm), 1/2" (12mm) and 3/4" (18mm) thicknesses. It's relatively inexpensive, overall good quality, looks good, and cut's nicely. The panels are true to size and square on all corners, AND it weighs 35% - 40% lighter than baltic birch plywood. I've been using in place of baltic birch and am happy with the results so far.
Yeah that what i was trying to get for the beg. box in this video, but I assumed 'Sande" was just the french canadian label 😂
@@ScottWalshWoodworking No, Sande is an actual hardwood species from Central and South America.
Great timing. I'm just about to build some shop drawers and trying to decide where to spend the time/money and where to just send it. Did you wind up installing the secret walnut drawer somewhere? I'm curious to see its fit/function without hardware or drawer front.
My god man, those kitchen cabinets!!!!!!!!!!!!!
😱😱😱😱
👍great video
I always find myself fighting the cabinet. I built a cabinet to put on the lower shelf of my bench and trying to shim it so its not twisted is hell.
Any tips for identifying the high/low spots causing the twist?
I’m so excited for the add after reading that comment
Omfg I loved the add. Hilarious and now I am actually going to check out north one. Didn’t skip a second.
I've done that cut on the wrong side 😂 it is worse finding out after you build them all
I've made a bunch of beginner drawers and leave a 2" gap at the rear, so it can be "fully extended" without accidentally pulling it all the way out
The advertisement read was pretty good. I don't remember who you were advertising for now that the video is over, but that have to feel like they got a good ad read from you (though I guess it defeats the purpose if I don't remember who the ad read was for?). Great job! I was entertained during the ad read!
Nice RUSH REFERENCE!
Where do you get inexpensive lumber, let alone birch ply????
I like that beginner's version has a brad nail sticking out in the middle of the drawer 😅
it seemed on brand, so i left it in 😂
The walnut drawer bottom is oriented wrong - if you install it in a "piston fit" situation, it will bind with seasonal movement
The tests showed that "reinforcing" the rebate is bad. Why is it good for the box joint?
it's not
It’s not that it is good or not, it’s that those tests are absurdly irrelevant but good for content.
I'm still curious about the reasoning why to emphasise it on one but not the other.
@@5280Woodworking This.
How damn strong does a drawer box need to be? No one is putting 138 lbs on one corner of a drawer.
So next up… 3ish options for drawer fronts? 🙂
You should probably point out that the reason why Baltic Birch is so expensive is that it's a product of Russia and under a 100% tariff. Then people who have a moral problem with Russian products can avoid it.
no one cares
@@gregmize01 Wrong. I care.
Primo editing on the advertisement segment!
The solid walnut bottom panel is turned the wrong way. The grain has to run perpendicular to the sides so that the bottom can move seasonally
I left room so it can expand side to side, and since the drawer is narrower than it is wide, it won't expand as much as it would if I did it your way.
@@ScottWalshWoodworking .. I am sure it will be fine, but if i get to be a bit anal about it :D expansion is not the problem for this orientation, shrinkage is :) .. if it shrinks it is likely to start to rattle since it will not be as snug in the grooves and if it shrinks a lot it might fall out :) .. oriented 90 degrees you get a full material thickness worth of room for movement. way more than you have now. so it is always the more safe option. (if you take care and not fasten it in the back to hard like i have done and have it crack ... )
wow basketball legend ray Allen built your crosscut sled that's dope
dude made a reference to rush. easy win.
😁
I clicked “like” because of the sponsor segment. 😂
While it may be fun and/or interesting to make joints more advanced than butt or rebate, for draw boxes with false fronts it seems overly complicated.
I spend zero time looking at the sides of draw boxes, thus I only care about robustness along with ease and speed of construction and assembly. A locking rebate is good fit for all of those criteria.
That ad was so disturbing and creepy I completely missed what you were talking about....
Sponsorblock, use it.
You could have made the intermediate slightly lower making up the difference with the face of the drawer and cover up your mistake.
Did you watch the ad and garbage day broke me 💀💀
13:22 missed a nail :)
That ad read was too good to skip.
Kitchen remodel next video? Your shop cabinets are way nicer looking than your kitchen cabinets.
I wish... I rent the house
I have to laugh of the bots speaking about the ad. As if most of us watch them if not forced.
"Esher-PAINTING".......?!?! Esher used a lot of media for his designs, but I don't recall paint being one of them.... He was NOT a painter. He personally abhorred being called that(or even "artist"), preferring to call himself a "Graphicus"(graphic designer).
Hate to say this but 1/4" plywood is really 6mm thick Plywood so you are using metric see we will get you some how silly imperial people
Yes, but they really feel cool when they can use xx/64 fraction 😁