Gavin, I think it is great that you demonstrate all of the different things one can do to take a photo, and then demonstrate the pluses and minuses of each approach. I also love the fact that you do not come right out and try to push folks towards having to buy a 250 dollar beauty dish, a flash unit that is 3-6 x the cost of a decent flash unit (think Profoto vs Godox), and you make all of this fun. Folks should also look at some of your earlier presentations in the "Take and Make Great Photo" series on TH-cam. I learned a ton from those videos. Thank you!
A technique called "binary chop" systematises "trial and error". Essentially, you shoot at (say) maximum power and then at (say) minimum power. Then shoot again at half the difference between the power settings. Check if it's the correct exposure for you. If too hot, halve the difference between the current setting and the minimum power; if under-exposed, halve the difference to the maximum power. Repeat until you have the 'correct' exposure.
Thank you Gavin for your videos. I've learnt a lot from you. Wouldn't it be better for creating a coloured background (by using gels) to use the black curtain instead of the white wall? Wouldn't the colour be more saturated with the black background? Greatings from Austria!
The darker the background the deeper the colour, so you are right in that regard. But in this test I wanted to compare the speed of set-up with a different lighting position, so achieving a dark background by using the inverse square law (light fall off) was the route I choose 👍
Not with the Godox system (to the best of my knowledge). The transmitter only transmits and doesn't receive, so any changes you make with a second controller are instantly overridden by the transmitter on the camera when you press the shutter ☹️
Hello recorded Gavin! For the person who wanted a repeater, there's an option with Godox, I guess : get a receiver (the box that allows your camera brand speedlight to work with the Godox system). It has a hotshoe and you can put a second transmitter in it (on a different channel, obviously). Then set the far away flash on that second channel. It *might* work (never tried it, the short range mode is more than enough for me).
@@Michel_Vanaken It's been so long since I needed an external receiver that I forgotten about them. Good idea and I guess that might work but I've also never tried (or needed to try) that.
Light meters are highly useful for film photography, in digital they are a waste of money. You have an LCD display, and it can give you an excellent indication of where your exposure is at. There is no saving of time by using flash meter. A light meter, meters to mid grey, so you have to understand what that is and how it relates to your subject. And even with flash meter, you still have to pop flash multiple times to fine tune output... might as well do that by taking images and seeing the result of change on LCD
You're right in lots of ways and yet, somehow, I disagree (gotta love photography, right). LCD screens lie, just change the brightness or take it outside and the perceived results will be different. A flash meter slows me down, buys me thinking time and gives me a constant result saving me time at the other end. But as I said at the end, whatever works for you is the best choice.
@@GavinHoey yeah, I'll have to place an argument with that. LCD is going to give a far better exposure guide than a mid grey average exposure reading. Once you've set the LCD or EVF to be be a correct brightness, I don't know why it would be changed 🤷♂️. Outside!? Use EVF or LCD Loupe... I actually use a towel over my head and camera to block out ambient light. Simple, effective. I have no doubt photographers out there, including yourself, find the hand held light meter an easier workflow to meter flash and or ambient light. I had one hung around my neck when I was at Uni shooting 5x4 film. It was an essential piece of kit. But I havn't used it once in over 20 years, and have at no point felt my setup of scene was slow, and my metering inaccurate. There are many beginners who mirror what educators, such as yourself do, without question, and setup their kits and workflow accordingly. I am providing an alternate view, with justification (this is important for educational purposes!) to possibly save someone starting out a few hundred dollars... which may be better spent on flash modifier or towards an extra flash 🤷♂️. For clarity, I am not arguing for arguments sake... Your channel and all TH-cam content is engaging and highly educational. But when I see content, from an objective standpoint, that is what I consider to be redundant or wrong, I like to provide a viewpoint. So that people who are learning know there are alternate views. ✌✌
Thanks for that info.. can you do an video, with your technique, and results..I think that would be the best way to help those who are influenced by teachers like Gavin..looking forward to seeing it..thanks in advance
I just shoot until I get it right. I had a light meter for a while, and I spent more time getting it set right to give me results. Besides, with modern software, you can fix almost ANY problem in post. Do you want to be a photographer or a tools expert?
Is it? That's marvellous news! Quick question... Which continuous light can give me an exposure of 1/4000th at F8, 100ISO in my studio through a decent sized softbox without blinding the model. I have a budget of £250 😉
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Thanks, Gavin & crew! Always look forward to your videos.
Thank you David 👍
Sorry i missed this live, Thanks for a great show Gavin and clan.
Need to get your support team in front of your camera! Lovely young ladies...
I'm so pleased to see you again hope its regular again now weekly perhaps...!
Gavin,
I think it is great that you demonstrate all of the different things one can do to take a photo, and then demonstrate the pluses and minuses of each approach. I also love the fact that you do not come right out and try to push folks towards having to buy a 250 dollar beauty dish, a flash unit that is 3-6 x the cost of a decent flash unit (think Profoto vs Godox), and you make all of this fun.
Folks should also look at some of your earlier presentations in the "Take and Make Great Photo" series on TH-cam. I learned a ton from those videos. Thank you!
A technique called "binary chop" systematises "trial and error". Essentially, you shoot at (say) maximum power and then at (say) minimum power. Then shoot again at half the difference between the power settings. Check if it's the correct exposure for you. If too hot, halve the difference between the current setting and the minimum power; if under-exposed, halve the difference to the maximum power. Repeat until you have the 'correct' exposure.
Late for the live!! Gavin I love your work. Greetings from Mexico. I learnt a lot from you. You are my favorite teacher in the world.
It's never TOO late and thank you 😊
Love this one. . . Thank you so much !
Thank you Gavin for your videos. I've learnt a lot from you.
Wouldn't it be better for creating a coloured background (by using gels) to use the black curtain instead of the white wall? Wouldn't the colour be more saturated with the black background?
Greatings from Austria!
The darker the background the deeper the colour, so you are right in that regard. But in this test I wanted to compare the speed of set-up with a different lighting position, so achieving a dark background by using the inverse square law (light fall off) was the route I choose 👍
@@GavinHoey Thank you!
Wooow. Im buying the light meter.
I'd be lost without mine, which is probably why I have 4 of them 😁
As I mentioned before, this test could be interesting outdoors.
Watch this space... Or rather Adorama TV's space 😉
@@GavinHoey I have a subscription ;)
Could you use a wifi shutter control or phone instead of removeing the flash control
Not with the Godox system (to the best of my knowledge). The transmitter only transmits and doesn't receive, so any changes you make with a second controller are instantly overridden by the transmitter on the camera when you press the shutter ☹️
and once again I'm an hour late for the livestream. Austin, TX where it's hot. 101F
Well you are just a welcome and thank you for the comment 👍
Hello recorded Gavin!
For the person who wanted a repeater, there's an option with Godox, I guess : get a receiver (the box that allows your camera brand speedlight to work with the Godox system). It has a hotshoe and you can put a second transmitter in it (on a different channel, obviously). Then set the far away flash on that second channel. It *might* work (never tried it, the short range mode is more than enough for me).
@@Michel_Vanaken It's been so long since I needed an external receiver that I forgotten about them. Good idea and I guess that might work but I've also never tried (or needed to try) that.
I would like to see a purple gel
Gavin, I missed an awesome photo because of leaving the lens cap on Lol.
@@reverendphillsschoolofmaji383 I think we've all been there. It's a rite of passage for photographers 🤣
Good m owning from Brisbane,
Light meters are highly useful for film photography, in digital they are a waste of money. You have an LCD display, and it can give you an excellent indication of where your exposure is at. There is no saving of time by using flash meter. A light meter, meters to mid grey, so you have to understand what that is and how it relates to your subject.
And even with flash meter, you still have to pop flash multiple times to fine tune output... might as well do that by taking images and seeing the result of change on LCD
You're right in lots of ways and yet, somehow, I disagree (gotta love photography, right). LCD screens lie, just change the brightness or take it outside and the perceived results will be different.
A flash meter slows me down, buys me thinking time and gives me a constant result saving me time at the other end. But as I said at the end, whatever works for you is the best choice.
@@GavinHoey yeah, I'll have to place an argument with that. LCD is going to give a far better exposure guide than a mid grey average exposure reading. Once you've set the LCD or EVF to be be a correct brightness, I don't know why it would be changed 🤷♂️. Outside!? Use EVF or LCD Loupe... I actually use a towel over my head and camera to block out ambient light. Simple, effective.
I have no doubt photographers out there, including yourself, find the hand held light meter an easier workflow to meter flash and or ambient light. I had one hung around my neck when I was at Uni shooting 5x4 film. It was an essential piece of kit. But I havn't used it once in over 20 years, and have at no point felt my setup of scene was slow, and my metering inaccurate.
There are many beginners who mirror what educators, such as yourself do, without question, and setup their kits and workflow accordingly. I am providing an alternate view, with justification (this is important for educational purposes!) to possibly save someone starting out a few hundred dollars... which may be better spent on flash modifier or towards an extra flash 🤷♂️.
For clarity, I am not arguing for arguments sake... Your channel and all TH-cam content is engaging and highly educational. But when I see content, from an objective standpoint, that is what I consider to be redundant or wrong, I like to provide a viewpoint. So that people who are learning know there are alternate views.
✌✌
Thanks for that info.. can you do an video, with your technique, and results..I think that would be the best way to help those who are influenced by teachers like Gavin..looking forward to seeing it..thanks in advance
I just shoot until I get it right. I had a light meter for a while, and I spent more time getting it set right to give me results. Besides, with modern software, you can fix almost ANY problem in post. Do you want to be a photographer or a tools expert?
In this case wouldn't the photography work be pretty much the same, so the choice would more be between lightning setup post-processing work.
I'd much rather avoid a problem in the first place then fix it after it's occurred 👍
Hello recorded Gavin and Hoey family.
Hi Kenneth 👋
Hai from Hamburg
Reno NV 99F
Hello 👋 clan Hoey
Hello!
What's better is continuous lighting. LOL
Is it? That's marvellous news! Quick question... Which continuous light can give me an exposure of 1/4000th at F8, 100ISO in my studio through a decent sized softbox without blinding the model. I have a budget of £250 😉