Just completed the 300 mile run-in period, and can confirm a very noticeable difference. Well worth the outlay, and relatively easy to do. More than happy, thanks guys.
Couldn't really work that out myself Steve, but I just followed George's video instructions from TEC. The only extra I needed was a tube of silicone gasket, for the rocker cover.
@@MrFox5113 that’s what I’m curious to as well, given how it goes around 10 seconds barely faster than my TDI I want to try and get around 6 or 7 seconds with the help of exhaust a tune and rotating mass lightening.
How exciting it must be to already enjoy a bike like the Himalayan with its power limitations. Then get a beautiful, flat 20% torque and Hrsprs increase without fussing with all the bs like special air filters and mufflers. A real mechanical modification.
Sir your dedication towards your work and guidance to others how to work at their work shop is real great I am really happy from bottom of my whole heart which no school or any one can teach so patiently all your videos I watch are really good 👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👏👏👏👏👏💪💪💪💪💪
Thanks so much for all the work you have done to make the Himmy the bike it always should have been. Your development has been so logical and detailed. A bunch of us in Australia will be ordering.
@@murrayhyde4902 Hi Murray. Thanks for the question. I have done over 16,000km with the cam installed. There was definitely a noticeable improvement in power, and made it much nicer to ride (like it should have been from the factory) but I doubt if it was 20% extra. I reckon maybe a couple of extra HP. It will still struggle to maintain 100kph with a headwind or a hill, but is much better than it was. I bought two and my brother fitted one as well. He have similar experiences as we do long (800 km) rides together. I still think the cam is the best bang for buck improvement so far. It runs sweet and starts/idles perfectly. I think the limitation on these bikes is the valve and port sizes, so even big bore kits don't seem to add any real top pend speed. Your thoughts?
@@raineman8428 not sure yet. I bought a RE himilayan scram. It puts along OK. Not great speed or performance but still lots of fun. I'm curious on upgrades. Maybe better air filter. But the cam swap seems to be the best bet... but good to hear from someone who's done it.
Our two cams are in (first in Australia we think) and the video helped enormously. And yes, we reckon (still running in though) that it has made the bike much more capable on the road.
For those looking for the tappets clearence, the video is wrong but I got a email reaction from them: Apologies for any confusion this has caused, the tappet clearances for the Himalayan are 0.23- 0.25mm Exhaust and 0.08-0.10mm inlet, which are the same as stock, George misspeaks in our video and quoted the inlet clearances for the exhaust too. You can find a set of instructions attached above, which reference the tappet settings. Best Regards,
Thank you for all your work. After an oil loss disaster last month I'm changing a piston and cylinder and got your cam and a 16 tooth front sprocket. Can't wait to get my baby back on the road and feel the difference.
I have always wondered why RE designed a brand new engine for the Himalayan and made it produce so little power. My 1969 Suzuki T200 produces similar power from half the capacity. And that was made 50 years ago. Looks like this redesigned camshaft is a significant step in the right direction. I really like the look of the Himalayan, and it's rugged character. Just wish it had about 40 bhp. Maybe I'm being too greedy!
@@Ozsmallbore I am aware of that. But technology has advanced in the last 50 years. We now have fuel injection and programable electronic ignition for example. I just feel 24.5 bhp for that capacity is somewhat low. I really want RE to do well. They are a company with history. They are showing real promise, and trying to mix traditional with modern, and on the whole seem to be doing it well. I hope their recent successes will continue for a long time.
@@nealeburgess6756 it was designed for Indian roads, where its common to have cows and a bunch of people on the main highways. Anything beyond 60 mph is risky.
@@drury2d8 Yes. I have seen what roads are like in India. Even on the large inter-city highways it is impossible to build up speed. However, RE have a design centre in the UK, and they are trying hard to market their bikes not just to India, but to the rest of the world. Certainly here in Europe they would find it easier to sell their bikes with a higher power output.
Any chance of putting a "cam in a Scram" 411? I think it would be perfect for the Scram. Muffler and intake mods would also make the bike lighter. Always a plus...
Thanks very much. Patience has been rewarded. This reminded me just how much work goes into engine mods. When you said, last year, it was a simple inexpensive change I never considered a different cam. Therefore I must apologize for getting a bit impatient. Now, to order one, then find the time to install it.
I fitted this 6 months ago, and can confirm a definite increase in pulling power, much appreciated with the long and steep hills in my area! If there is a better value and/or easier way to improve the already superb Himalayan 411, I have yet to find it, and I looked long and hard!
We have not done it, but some of our customers have, see our reviews on our web shop listing as an Australian customer has a cam and big bore fitted and he has uploaded a dyno sheet
That sounds like a cure to the Himalayan's biggest issue, and Royal Enfield should have a chat with you for the cam shapes! Question one: Couldn't you just draw some oil from the sump with a syringe and a wee hose, and spray it over the cams through the access hole for the tappets? Two: How does the cam affect the engine's economy? One would expect it to worsen slightly, but I wouldn't bet on that, really.
Hi Zw, I think I’m right in saying that the manufacturer is forbidden from using these mods due to the current (euro5) emissions regulations. Private owner mods are not controlled the same way.
@@philtucker1224 I have no way of knowing for sure, but I can't imagine that an oxygen sensor regulated ECU would not be able to cope with the situation.
Hi Zw, regarding lessening of fuel economy it is true that a higher performing cam will offer the potential of getting a greater air/fuel mixture into the cylinder(when required) secondly, regarding “camshaft overlap” the principle of this feature allows some of the incoming air/fuel mixture to continue through the combustion chamber at a higher velocity due to the partial vacuum created by the inertia of the previously spent mixture exiting through the exhaust port. This does therefore sacrifice slightly more fresh fuel than previously in aide to pull more mixture into the combustion chamber before the inlet valve closes. (As you can imagine, this was a popular mod for race engines before the use of turbos). I hope that helps! 😊
Along with your cam and DNA kit, would replacing the down pipe and end can (I already have an end can)with one without the cat help with flow or would you loose too much low and mid range power?
Any plans for the new Meteor 350? It's a great looking bike but with only 20bhp it seems to be begging for extra power. I'd like one but it needs a bit more top end to dodge the trucks on the motorway.
Do you really need to use the motorway? If it's for commuting perhaps but otherwise I wouldn't bother. The Meteor is my preference but I'd avoid motorways as much as possible, there's often an A road alternative (A6 rather than M6 etc), that doesn't take that much longer and a much more pleasant journey.
THANKS!!!... I know its been a long haul for you guys to get this Himalayan cam to market. I am in the USA and want one please, it is not carried by the importer here so please send me the links to order one. Love all your stuff, TEC Bike Parts ROCK.
A big bore would require a new cam. You can't have the valves open+close the same way if you have a bigger cylinder to fill. Also, ignition timing would need changing, as well as the EFI programming.
I'm wondering now whether to buy the sohc air cooled himi and fit the booster plug, filter and cam mods, or buy the dohc liquid cooled version and hope I dont get any early adopter problems.
Hello George, I've one TEC Cam to fit on my RE Himalayan Euro 5 but I've one question regarding the tappets adjustments. You said on this video that the values were: 0.08mm on the Inlet and 0.01 on the exhaust. But looking at the Manual of the motor Euro IV it says there that the adjustments are: Inlet 0.08mm and Exhaust: 0.23mm. Can you please confirm this values. For the Euro 5 model are they the same? Kind regards
I was wondering the same myself .010 sae is the same as .25mm on the feeler gauge. Set mine very tight at .25mm with cam in and its a little noisey. The book says .23-25mm
I have 2 Himalayan 18 and 19, I have done front sprocket 16 tooth, booster plug, cr8eix spark plug, air filter just waiting to do cams, hard to get them right now. But looking forward to trying it out. Heard lots of good things so far. Let you know what happens. SJ
Hi I have a sealant leak on my cam cover, but now having seen your video I think I will change the cam I have a couple of questions first please I did not see you remove the tappet plug I have removed the bolt that holds it in but do I now need to tap it to remove it as it is a little stuck The diagram shows a seal behind the plug Would you advise to replace that seal while it's off Do I remove the spark plug to turn the bike over tor TDC Nice video, I will confirm if the upgrade is OK Thanks
Absolutely great presentation. Am looking forward to purchasing a Himalayan once knee recovery will allow. Back road touring in the western US is the goal. Been following most of the TH-cam vloggers am convinced it is THE bike that will match my needs, especially with the HP bump of your cam. I have one question re: prelubing . I’ve always used assembly lube to protect cam installations. Any reason you haven’t? Does the manual rotation to move oil to the top end provide better protection? Just curious. From California, thanks again for the development and video. 👍
The problem is that if you add a lot of lube before fitting the cam cover it gets on the mating surfaces. Hence pumping up oil before starting the motor. You could also spray some oil in through the valve covers with an oil can too.
Could you please reassure us that the tappet settings are correct? 0.08 mm inlet and 0.01 mm exhaust? I find a manual saying inlet 0.08 and exhaust 0.23 mm
Raine Man, Ich denke, du liegst da richtig. Ich hatte jetzt meine 10.000 km - Inspektion selbst erledigt. Inlet 0,08 war korrekt und hatte sich nicht verändert, Outlet war 0,20 - 22, korrigiert auf 0,24..... Er hat sich vertan im Video.. In English: You are right. I have done my Inspektion last week. The intake was clear after 10.000 km 0,08, absolute correkt, and the exhaust was about 0,20 -22 and i made it near 0,24.... I think in the video was am mistake. best regards, Peter /Germany
Just watched the chain going on the sprocket to make sure it wasn't one tooth out .would it be beneficial to mark the link with a dab of paint or tippex aligned with the one sprocket mark before removing it and then replacing would be spot on no worries re aligning .just thinking out loud.?
Hi sorry ,first batch now sold out, we are getting more made and should be coming in batches every 2-3 weeks, sorry for the delays but our makers are having problems getting enough of the steel in correct size/ grade at the moment. we will list them as soon as available.
How did the HP & TQR curves not cross at 5252rpm? Couldn't help noticing a Kawasaki Z peeking out from a cover in the background. Oh the fun I had souping those up, flow-bench, cams & degree cam sprockets etc.
This is simply down to scaling of the graphs. It depends on the software package the dyno is running. lots of packages use scaling to cross at 5252 RPM ( Dynojet) to make comparing different bikes easier to understand. these runs were done on a Fuch chassis dyno
How about surgesting this to Royal Enfield & spasificly the Himalayan. Why don't they put some kind of overdrive on the bike, which could be used on tarmac, a bit like the Honda Trail 90 had?
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Hi Tec i have a question, do you guys have a plan to release scrambler exhaust for Royal Enfield 650cc? I notice you mention that in some videos. I waiting for that.
Is it possible to install the front indicators of Highness on Scram 411 and conty 650? And I mean proper installation so the amber light turns on with ignition as in stock CB350.
Out of curiosity, would you also recommend a stronger clutch or a pair or quad of uprated clutch springs when doing the cam upgrade? That aside, I'm going to keep your cam in mind. I love my Himalayan, but I've got other projects ahead of it in line at the moment - perhaps it'll be a Christmas gift to myself! Thanks much for the work!
We found that the standard clutch worked fine during extensive testing, heavy duty springs are available but I would not use them as they make the operation too stiff
Interesting vid. 👍 The manual state quit clearly in bold print to only turn the engine in a clockwise direction NOT anticlockwise as there is a risk of loosening the alternator rotor bolt.
You will not get a true reading on the cam timing if you turn it clockwise as the front run of the chain must be under full tension. With the plug out you hardly use any effort to turn the motor and could not loosen the alternator nut. the manual is full of errors and misleading information.
Thanks for the video! At 19:00 you say to not take off the camshaft hole plug, but when you remove the cylinder head cover doesn't it just come out of place anyway? Why shouldn't that be removed?
. It is just that taking it out first is quite hard due to being well in stuck with silicone and compressed by the top cover. So, you have to use a lot of force that could cause damage. much easier to remove once you have the top cover removed.
@@georgemilburn6213 thanks for clearing that up for me! does that mean it's better to put it back into place when the top cover isn't fastened all the way down again? or does it need to be put back in after the cover has been torqued down?
Much better after the cam was fitted, but I also changed the front sprocket to 16 Tooth. I now regularly get around 100 MPG on a long run and around 95MPG on everyday riding.
Hi could you please tell me where you get the Loctite SI 5900 in that size or can you supply ? would be happy to buy from you,iv received the cam from you thanks, just trying to find Loctite before I start the fitment. Thanks Martyn
Sorry to ask this particular sort of question on TH-cam , but I can’t understand if the cam is available in the USA. It is late November 2022. Could you please say if it is or not? Your site refers to tecusa, but the product is not on that website. I’ve been checking from time to time since this video was released, so just decided to ask directly.
This engine does not have tappets. Your rockers are connected directly to your camshaft. Sound like you are familiar with the British BMC over head valve push rod engine with their tappet inspection covers. Built to take a licking and keep on ticking. Good Instruction. Well Done.
Hi George, as always a calm considered approach to improving your bike. I have just one question please: in the intro you talked about a pin that needed to be pressed in, but I didn't see that anywhere in the vid? Maybe it's just me being blind ? Btw my new Himi comes next weekend so I'll be onto you for some bits...
Excellent video ! What is the cost of this cam ??? Wonder if anyone will design a full exhaust ( high pipe ) to help with HP and would gain some ground clearance of the bike ????
We have looked at a high pipe and still considering it. But we have looked very close at air heat flow on the Himalayan as very borderline in some areas especially in hot climates. we will be making some follow up videos when we have the time and will go into this and some of the free fixes you can do to help this.
Hi You cannot fit a boosterplug on a Euro 5 2021 version. but you can fit a boosterplug to the Euro 4 version. Although this is not essential and we did lots of testing with the cam fitted without one, The boosterplug does help a lot with better throttle response and smoother pick up. but very little difference in power on the dyno. I run my own Euro 4 bike with a boosterplug and I feel it is well worth having for the vastly improved throttle response alone.
Cam wear is actually at its highest at idle as there's more time for the oil "wedge" to spill off the nose of the cam lobe and less kinetic energy in the valve effectively increasing spring pressure. Lube the cam properly and then run at a fast idle for the first few seconds then ramp up to about 2K for a couple of minutes. This is why in the old days before technology improved it was not uncommon to hear learner cars with tappy camshafts - they spent so much time at or just above idle which accelerated cam wear.
your talking bollocks mate, my job for 6 years was actually testing oil in motorbike engines for bp/castrol themselves...i used to build and strip and rate these engines for wear after long tests with the engines on a dyno. We never ever saw any more wear with these engines at idle...makes no difference at all
Must the silicone head gasket still be soft when you torque down the head, or can it have dried so it's firm when you torque down the head? If it must still be soft, how much time do you have before it's too firm?
Hi the 5900 silicone is designed to stay firm but not fully cure till torqued down and has a good work time. see Loctite for full PDF spec sheet on this product and how it is different from normal silicone
Hi, I could not find the link to the shop breakdown manual, and also, does your shop sell the gasket compound? I haven't gotten our bikes yet, but once we do, I expect that we will want to get the cams and tinker with the bikes. Since you said that one of your tests was in Cali, I suppose that the cams etc will be available in the USA. Thank you, B.
For EPA legal reasons our California store cannot sell them, but we can ship them from the UK store to the USA 'for off road race use only'. We now also have to do this with the cams we make for triumphs too.
Very much enjoy your channel. Will you be releasing a 410 big bore kit? If so that would require a different cam then this upgraded one, yes? Check out Patriot front fork suspension kits as they have a unique solution for springs. With the stock forks being rather narrow, how wide a front wheel/tire could I run before swapping out the front end for say a WP inverted front end from a KTM? It looks like you're running a wider rear tire as well? how wide will swing arm allow 160 60/40 adv tire?
Nice video! Its harder to design an engine to match emissions. However, how do you get 29 HP at the wheel? Stock dyno tests are around 20.5 HP. I'm a bit confused.
Did you have the pin in the camshaft in this video? I didn’t see it. Do you have to enter it before or during? Today i received my camshaft but there is no marking on it (T) for the top death center? How can I know which side is up?
Hi yes you can use any good Silicone gasket . But this type as good bead retaining properties and working time, Because of this it is used by many top engine building companies on the production line. Porsche use this on 911 turbo cam covers need I say more.
@@TECBikeParts thanks. I managed to get some in the end. The next day I thought it might be a good idea to let the bike tick over for 30mins prior to riding it. I’ve just read that’s the worst thing to do and I should have taken it for a gentler ride slowing the revs to vary. Oh well hopefully it’ll be fine.
Just completed the 300 mile run-in period, and can confirm a very noticeable difference. Well worth the outlay, and relatively easy to do. More than happy, thanks guys.
Same. Only about 10 miles in, but I can feel the extra power and smoother power delivery.
whats the deal with the plug cover at the end of the camshaft? any parts needed thanx
Couldn't really work that out myself Steve, but I just followed George's video instructions from TEC. The only extra I needed was a tube of silicone gasket, for the rocker cover.
How’s the reliability been
Regarding the camshaft, no worries. I had a bit of a top-end hiccup a couple of months ago, but nothing to do with the camshaft.
I don't own a Himalayan, but if I did I would consider a 20% gain in power for just £200 very good value. And easy to fit too.
Yes, 20% is quite significant.
All anyone says is that it feels faster. Why is it impossible to find any real numbers? New 0 to 60 time?
@@MrFox5113 that’s what I’m curious to as well, given how it goes around 10 seconds barely faster than my TDI I want to try and get around 6 or 7 seconds with the help of exhaust a tune and rotating mass lightening.
😃 🎸 Sounds from London 🇬🇧 th-cam.com/video/gjrDvSRFm2k/w-d-xo.html ✨
@@MrFox5113 The gain is in the top end, not the bottom. There are numbers. See the graph. Perhaps look.
Just pressed the trigger and ordered one. It’s great that a British company is manufacturing these for a decent price. Awesome 👏
Just got mine last week - great to hear someone with a brain commenting!
How exciting it must be to already enjoy a bike like the Himalayan with its power limitations. Then get a beautiful, flat 20% torque and Hrsprs increase without fussing with all the bs like special air filters and mufflers. A real mechanical modification.
Sir your dedication towards your work and guidance to others how to work at their work shop is real great I am really happy from bottom of my whole heart which no school or any one can teach so patiently all your videos I watch are really good 👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👏👏👏👏👏💪💪💪💪💪
Thanks so much for all the work you have done to make the Himmy the bike it always should have been. Your development has been so logical and detailed. A bunch of us in Australia will be ordering.
I have ordered two, one for my brother. Other folks on the Aussie Himmy page are ordering too.
Even from Under-developed countries will be ordering 😁😁😁😁
@@raineman8428 Hello has the cam change given you the performance you expected. kind regards murray
@@murrayhyde4902 Hi Murray. Thanks for the question. I have done over 16,000km with the cam installed. There was definitely a noticeable improvement in power, and made it much nicer to ride (like it should have been from the factory) but I doubt if it was 20% extra. I reckon maybe a couple of extra HP. It will still struggle to maintain 100kph with a headwind or a hill, but is much better than it was. I bought two and my brother fitted one as well. He have similar experiences as we do long (800 km) rides together. I still think the cam is the best bang for buck improvement so far. It runs sweet and starts/idles perfectly. I think the limitation on these bikes is the valve and port sizes, so even big bore kits don't seem to add any real top pend speed. Your thoughts?
@@raineman8428 not sure yet. I bought a RE himilayan scram. It puts along OK. Not great speed or performance but still lots of fun.
I'm curious on upgrades. Maybe better air filter. But the cam swap seems to be the best bet... but good to hear from someone who's done it.
Our two cams are in (first in Australia we think) and the video helped enormously. And yes, we reckon (still running in though) that it has made the bike much more capable on the road.
Congratulations and thank you for allowing me to share your journey.
For those looking for the tappets clearence, the video is wrong but I got a email reaction from them:
Apologies for any confusion this has caused, the tappet clearances for the Himalayan are 0.23- 0.25mm Exhaust and 0.08-0.10mm inlet, which are the same as stock, George misspeaks in our video and quoted the inlet clearances for the exhaust too. You can find a set of instructions attached above, which reference the tappet settings.
Best Regards,
Great video, very clear. I'm glad to see it's got user friendly rockers for screwdriver and spanner adjustment. I might buy one now.
The upgrade I didn't know I needed!
Thank you for all your work. After an oil loss disaster last month I'm changing a piston and cylinder and got your cam and a 16 tooth front sprocket. Can't wait to get my baby back on the road and feel the difference.
@@pepini1 I got it from Hitchcocks. Reasonable and quick
How are you finding it wih the sprocket
I have always wondered why RE designed a brand new engine for the Himalayan and made it produce so little power. My 1969 Suzuki T200 produces similar power from half the capacity. And that was made 50 years ago. Looks like this redesigned camshaft is a significant step in the right direction. I really like the look of the Himalayan, and it's rugged character. Just wish it had about 40 bhp. Maybe I'm being too greedy!
Your t200 is a 2 stroke twin made well before emissions & noise laws were a thing, you really are comparing apples with oranges here.
@@Ozsmallbore I am aware of that. But technology has advanced in the last 50 years. We now have fuel injection and programable electronic ignition for example. I just feel 24.5 bhp for that capacity is somewhat low. I really want RE to do well. They are a company with history. They are showing real promise, and trying to mix traditional with modern, and on the whole seem to be doing it well. I hope their recent successes will continue for a long time.
All I want from it is passing speed.
Other then that it's a lovely little bike.
@@nealeburgess6756 it was designed for Indian roads, where its common to have cows and a bunch of people on the main highways. Anything beyond 60 mph is risky.
@@drury2d8 Yes. I have seen what roads are like in India. Even on the large inter-city highways it is impossible to build up speed. However, RE have a design centre in the UK, and they are trying hard to market their bikes not just to India, but to the rest of the world. Certainly here in Europe they would find it easier to sell their bikes with a higher power output.
I've got one of these to fit. I'm looking forward to cracking one off. Yeah. Great video
Any chance of putting a "cam in a Scram" 411? I think it would be perfect for the Scram. Muffler and intake mods would also make the bike lighter. Always a plus...
Isn't the bike identical apart from wheels and a couple of ergonomic tweaks? I'm sure the engine is the same anyway
Thanks very much. Patience has been rewarded.
This reminded me just how much work goes into engine mods.
When you said, last year, it was a simple inexpensive change I never considered a different cam. Therefore I must apologize for getting a bit impatient.
Now, to order one, then find the time to install it.
I fitted this 6 months ago, and can confirm a definite increase in pulling power, much appreciated with the long and steep hills in my area! If there is a better value and/or easier way to improve the already superb Himalayan 411, I have yet to find it, and I looked long and hard!
Very happy with this cam, thanks George!
I have a question: since RE's new Scram 411 shares the same engine, will this "Goldilocks cam" work with it too? Cheers, and thanks for what you do!
Has anyone used this camshaft with a big bore kit? I wonder what power improvements one may see there. Thanks for your work!
We have not done it, but some of our customers have, see our reviews on our web shop listing as an Australian customer has a cam and big bore fitted and he has uploaded a dyno sheet
I may have missed this but what affect does it have on fuel consumption?
idk did you get your answer ?
That sounds like a cure to the Himalayan's biggest issue, and Royal Enfield should have a chat with you for the cam shapes!
Question one: Couldn't you just draw some oil from the sump with a syringe and a wee hose, and spray it over the cams through the access hole for the tappets?
Two: How does the cam affect the engine's economy? One would expect it to worsen slightly, but I wouldn't bet on that, really.
Hi Zw, I think I’m right in saying that the manufacturer is forbidden from using these mods due to the current (euro5) emissions regulations. Private owner mods are not controlled the same way.
@@philtucker1224 I have no way of knowing for sure, but I can't imagine that an oxygen sensor regulated ECU would not be able to cope with the situation.
Hi Zw, regarding lessening of fuel economy it is true that a higher performing cam will offer the potential of getting a greater air/fuel mixture into the cylinder(when required) secondly, regarding “camshaft overlap” the principle of this feature allows some of the incoming air/fuel mixture to continue through the combustion chamber at a higher velocity due to the partial vacuum created by the inertia of the previously spent mixture exiting through the exhaust port. This does therefore sacrifice slightly more fresh fuel than previously in aide to pull more mixture into the combustion chamber before the inlet valve closes. (As you can imagine, this was a popular mod for race engines before the use of turbos). I hope that helps! 😊
Spot on job & excellently executed thank you
So awesome! Been waiting for this! Can't wait to get it installed!
Looks a great product at a good price. Well done.
Man! I didn't know camshaft work takes that much effort and delicacy. I'd be at the service center telling them, "I NEED MY BIKE TODAY!" Lol
Along with your cam and DNA kit, would replacing the down pipe and end can (I already have an end can)with one without the cat help with flow or would you loose too much low and mid range power?
Great job! Is it available for the meteor 350? Thanks!
Any plans for the new Meteor 350? It's a great looking bike but with only 20bhp it seems to be begging for extra power. I'd like one but it needs a bit more top end to dodge the trucks on the motorway.
Do you really need to use the motorway? If it's for commuting perhaps but otherwise I wouldn't bother. The Meteor is my preference but I'd avoid motorways as much as possible, there's often an A road alternative (A6 rather than M6 etc), that doesn't take that much longer and a much more pleasant journey.
If it’s like the rest of your parts it’s going to be great and very worthwhile doing, nice job 👍👍👍👍👍👍
THANKS!!!... I know its been a long haul for you guys to get this Himalayan cam to market. I am in the USA and want one please, it is not carried by the importer here so please send me the links to order one. Love all your stuff, TEC Bike Parts ROCK.
just send us an email with your zip code so we can work out the shipping nd we can send you a (export tax free )paypal invoice
Curious what the horsepower and torque numbers would be with your new cam and a big bore kit installed.
A big bore would require a new cam. You can't have the valves open+close the same way if you have a bigger cylinder to fill. Also, ignition timing would need changing, as well as the EFI programming.
Knowing that this mod is available i may have 2nd look at RE Himalayan.
That's what I'm saying
Same here, a little more top end speed has me looking at the himalayan again
I'm wondering now whether to buy the sohc air cooled himi and fit the booster plug, filter and cam mods, or buy the dohc liquid cooled version and hope I dont get any early adopter problems.
Hello George, I've one TEC Cam to fit on my RE Himalayan Euro 5 but I've one question regarding the tappets adjustments. You said on this video that the values were: 0.08mm on the Inlet and 0.01 on the exhaust. But looking at the Manual of the motor Euro IV it says there that the adjustments are: Inlet 0.08mm and Exhaust: 0.23mm. Can you please confirm this values. For the Euro 5 model are they the same? Kind regards
I was wondering the same myself .010 sae is the same as .25mm on the feeler gauge. Set mine very tight at .25mm with cam in and its a little noisey. The book says .23-25mm
I have 2 Himalayan 18 and 19, I have done front sprocket 16 tooth, booster plug, cr8eix spark plug, air filter just waiting to do cams, hard to get them right now. But looking forward to trying it out. Heard lots of good things so far. Let you know what happens. SJ
So how does it ride now? Good?
I want to do some work on mine.
Great vid. Wondering if this would be possible on other royal enfields that share the sane engine?
Yes works the same on the Scram 411 too.
A quick question - what is the impact of the CamShaft on the emissions? Would the bike still pass the regular technical check and emissions test?
Great work TEC. And thanks for the video. Just ordered mine and look forward to fitting it.
Hi
I have a sealant leak on my cam cover, but now having seen your video I think I will change the cam
I have a couple of questions first please
I did not see you remove the tappet plug
I have removed the bolt that holds it in but do I now need to tap it to remove it as it is a little stuck
The diagram shows a seal behind the plug
Would you advise to replace that seal while it's off
Do I remove the spark plug to turn the bike over tor TDC
Nice video, I will confirm if the upgrade is OK
Thanks
Will this cam shaft upgrade be OK for countries with poorer petrol ?
We will all have shit fuel soon.
👍 sounds great. I just need to buy myself a himmi now
Fantastic video as always Tec. Any truth in the Himmi getting the 650 engine?👍
It's already 199kg a 650 engine is going to tip the bike into a category in terms of weight.
I am considering Himalayan now. The euro4 models are well discounted. Doing test this week
Absolutely great presentation. Am looking forward to purchasing a Himalayan once knee recovery will allow. Back road touring in the western US is the goal. Been following most of the TH-cam vloggers am convinced it is THE bike that will match my needs, especially with the HP bump of your cam. I have one question re: prelubing . I’ve always used assembly lube to protect cam installations. Any reason you haven’t? Does the manual rotation to move oil to the top end provide better protection? Just curious. From California, thanks again for the development and video. 👍
The problem is that if you add a lot of lube before fitting the cam cover it gets on the mating surfaces. Hence pumping up oil before starting the motor. You could also spray some oil in through the valve covers with an oil can too.
is the link for the workshop manual no longer available ? thank you for this post ,a very interesting upgrade
Could you not put a few drips of oil in through the tappet covers, just so it's not starting dry?
Could you please reassure us that the tappet settings are correct? 0.08 mm inlet and 0.01 mm exhaust? I find a manual saying inlet 0.08 and exhaust 0.23 mm
Raine Man, Ich denke, du liegst da richtig. Ich hatte jetzt meine 10.000 km - Inspektion selbst erledigt. Inlet 0,08 war korrekt und hatte sich nicht verändert, Outlet war 0,20 - 22, korrigiert auf 0,24.....
Er hat sich vertan im Video..
In English: You are right. I have done my Inspektion last week. The intake was clear after 10.000 km 0,08, absolute correkt, and the exhaust was about 0,20 -22 and i made it near 0,24....
I think in the video was am mistake.
best regards, Peter /Germany
I don't know anything about this particular engine...but .01 sounds pretty damn tight.
Just watched the chain going on the sprocket to make sure it wasn't one tooth out .would it be beneficial to mark the link with a dab of paint or tippex aligned with the one sprocket mark before removing it and then replacing would be spot on no worries re aligning .just thinking out loud.?
oh no! out of stock
when do you think you will have your next load made?
thanks!
Hi
sorry ,first batch now sold out, we are getting more made and should be coming in batches every 2-3 weeks, sorry for the delays but our makers are having problems getting enough of the steel in correct size/ grade at the moment.
we will list them as soon as available.
@@georgemilburn6213 great! Thats not too bad! Thought it might be months till you get restocked.
Thanks so much
Thank you. I’ve been reviewing this motorcycle as a possible purchase..
How did the HP & TQR curves not cross at 5252rpm?
Couldn't help noticing a Kawasaki Z peeking out from a cover in the background. Oh the fun I had souping those up, flow-bench, cams & degree cam sprockets etc.
This is simply down to scaling of the graphs. It depends on the software package the dyno is running. lots of packages use scaling to cross at 5252 RPM ( Dynojet) to make comparing different bikes easier to understand. these runs were done on a Fuch chassis dyno
How about surgesting this to Royal Enfield & spasificly the Himalayan. Why don't they put some kind of overdrive on the bike, which could be used on tarmac, a bit like the Honda Trail 90 had?
Hi Tec i have a question, do you guys have a plan to release scrambler exhaust for Royal Enfield 650cc? I notice you mention that in some videos. I waiting for that.
Is it possible to install the front indicators of Highness on Scram 411 and conty 650? And I mean proper installation so the amber light turns on with ignition as in stock CB350.
What a great video presentation. Good job
Out of curiosity, would you also recommend a stronger clutch or a pair or quad of uprated clutch springs when doing the cam upgrade? That aside, I'm going to keep your cam in mind. I love my Himalayan, but I've got other projects ahead of it in line at the moment - perhaps it'll be a Christmas gift to myself! Thanks much for the work!
We found that the standard clutch worked fine during extensive testing, heavy duty springs are available but I would not use them as they make the operation too stiff
@@georgemilburn6213 Thanks much! I appreciate the advice.
I put a cam in my Monkey and it's a completely different bike. Really hoping to pick one of these up for my Scram
Is this worth doing for a Himalayan bought in the USA? Or is it only in Europe because of the changes made to be Euro 5-compliant?
Yes, good for US bikes too. We have many very happy US customers.
Will the cam modification void the RE manufacture warranty if installed?
Only if they can figure out
They would probably never know, but a few RE dealers will be fitting them and they should be fine with warranty work.
Interesting vid. 👍 The manual state quit clearly in bold print to only turn the engine in a clockwise direction NOT anticlockwise as there is a risk of loosening the alternator rotor bolt.
You will not get a true reading on the cam timing if you turn it clockwise as the front run of the chain must be under full tension. With the plug out you hardly use any effort to turn the motor and could not loosen the alternator nut.
the manual is full of errors and misleading information.
Great Job ! Thank you very much! Certainly my next investment in my Euro 4 Himalayan !
Thank you Sir for an extremely well done video, with clean language which is lacking all over TH-cam! :)
Great video thanks for all your hard work mate.
are there any motorcycle mechanic places you can take your bike to and they will do this for you ?
Thanks for the video!
At 19:00 you say to not take off the camshaft hole plug, but when you remove the cylinder head cover doesn't it just come out of place anyway? Why shouldn't that be removed?
. It is just that taking it out first is quite hard due to being well in stuck with silicone and compressed by the top cover. So, you have to use a lot of force that could cause damage. much easier to remove once you have the top cover removed.
@@georgemilburn6213 thanks for clearing that up for me! does that mean it's better to put it back into place when the top cover isn't fastened all the way down again? or does it need to be put back in after the cover has been torqued down?
Will you be able to up the power on the new meteor at 20bhp it is more like a 250cc.
isnt it 350?
@@hexturner143 Yes with the power of a 250cc, my bsa starfire 250 in the 60`s had more power
How is mpg before vs after cam installation?
Much better after the cam was fitted, but I also changed the front sprocket to 16 Tooth. I now regularly get around 100 MPG on a long run and around 95MPG on everyday riding.
I'd love it if you'd make a cam for the Benelli Leoncino and TRK502.
Hi could you please tell me where you get the Loctite SI 5900 in that size or can you supply ? would be happy to buy from you,iv received the cam from you thanks, just trying to find Loctite before I start the fitment. Thanks Martyn
Hello, do you send the camshaft overseas, (south América) . To replace on a 2022 bs6 . Thanks
Excellent video. I would like to ask you if this camshaft works with the carburettor version. Thank you so much!!!
Yes works on the Carb versions too.
Great job, I’ve been holding off buying a Himalayan because of about 4hp it didn’t have….. looks like you just sorted that part thanks.
Sorry to ask this particular sort of question on TH-cam , but I can’t understand if the cam is available in the USA. It is late November 2022. Could you please say if it is or not? Your site refers to tecusa, but the product is not on that website. I’ve been checking from time to time since this video was released, so just decided to ask directly.
This engine does not have tappets.
Your rockers are connected directly to your camshaft.
Sound like you are familiar with the British BMC over head valve push
rod engine with their tappet inspection covers. Built to take a licking and keep on ticking.
Good Instruction. Well Done.
you are sooo wrong.
Hi George, as always a calm considered approach to improving your bike. I have just one question please: in the intro you talked about a pin that needed to be pressed in, but I didn't see that anywhere in the vid? Maybe it's just me being blind ?
Btw my new Himi comes next weekend so I'll be onto you for some bits...
Any plans for making a cam for 350? Or maybe this one would work?
Excellent video ! What is the cost of this cam ??? Wonder if anyone will design a full exhaust ( high pipe ) to help with HP and would gain some ground clearance of the bike ????
We have looked at a high pipe and still considering it. But we have looked very close at air heat flow on the Himalayan as very borderline in some areas especially in hot climates. we will be making some follow up videos when we have the time and will go into this and some of the free fixes you can do to help this.
Great Video, thanks for putting all the effort in! Does the crankshaft fit on the newer 411cc Models?
Hi
Yes the Camshaft will fit all Himalayan models including the latest Euro 5
Just wondering if your camshaft would increase the power on a 2017 Himalayan (carburettor)
TBP, have you tried this with a big bore kit yet?
Could you please advise when these will be back in stock for a BS4?
Great video, for informative. Ordered the Cam, looking forward to running with it. Thank you.
Great stuff, just one question though, do we need to pair booster plug with it or not?
Hi
You cannot fit a boosterplug on a Euro 5 2021 version. but you can fit a boosterplug to the Euro 4 version. Although this is not essential and we did lots of testing with the cam fitted without one, The boosterplug does help a lot with better throttle response and smoother pick up. but very little difference in power on the dyno.
I run my own Euro 4 bike with a boosterplug and I feel it is well worth having for the vastly improved throttle response alone.
@@georgemilburn6213 Thanks a lot for your response. Mine is 2021 euro5, you saved my money 😁.
Btw i am waiting for the camshaft to be back in stock.
standard exhaust valve clearance is 0.23 - 0.25mm in the vid you say 0.010mm surely not? I ask as i have one on order.
sorry must have got confused , we enclose all the clearances and torques with the written instruction with the cams
Probably just a confusion in units of measurement.
0.010" is equivalent to 0.25mm
@@phillipembury2271 0.01 'bananas' is easy to remember those stinky imperial units
Looks great! Thanks! Will this work well with the big bore kits like the 462 or 477?
I want to know this too.
@@bern4679 also intrigued about this
Cam wear is actually at its highest at idle as there's more time for the oil "wedge" to spill off the nose of the cam lobe and less kinetic energy in the valve effectively increasing spring pressure. Lube the cam properly and then run at a fast idle for the first few seconds then ramp up to about 2K for a couple of minutes. This is why in the old days before technology improved it was not uncommon to hear learner cars with tappy camshafts - they spent so much time at or just above idle which accelerated cam wear.
your talking bollocks mate, my job for 6 years was actually testing oil in motorbike engines for bp/castrol themselves...i used to build and strip and rate these engines for wear after long tests with the engines on a dyno. We never ever saw any more wear with these engines at idle...makes no difference at all
Must the silicone head gasket still be soft when you torque down the head,
or can it have dried so it's firm when you torque down the head? If it must
still be soft, how much time do you have before it's too firm?
Hi
the 5900 silicone is designed to stay firm but not fully cure till torqued down and has a good work time.
see Loctite for full PDF spec sheet on this product and how it is different from normal silicone
@@georgemilburn6213 - Thank you, GEORGE!
Hi, I could not find the link to the shop breakdown manual, and also, does your shop sell the gasket compound? I haven't gotten our bikes yet, but once we do, I expect that we will want to get the cams and tinker with the bikes. Since you said that one of your tests was in Cali, I suppose that the cams etc will be available in the USA. Thank you, B.
For EPA legal reasons our California store cannot sell them, but we can ship them from the UK store to the USA 'for off road race use only'. We now also have to do this with the cams we make for triumphs too.
Very much enjoy your channel. Will you be releasing a 410 big bore kit? If so that would require a different cam then this upgraded one, yes? Check out Patriot front fork suspension kits as they have a unique solution for springs. With the stock forks being rather narrow, how wide a front wheel/tire could I run before swapping out the front end for say a WP inverted front end from a KTM? It looks like you're running a wider rear tire as well? how wide will swing arm allow 160 60/40 adv tire?
Nice video! Its harder to design an engine to match emissions. However, how do you get 29 HP at the wheel? Stock dyno tests are around 20.5 HP. I'm a bit confused.
29hp at the wheel is impressive honda xr400 only has 34hp at the back wheel and being air cooled that's about the limit.
29 hp would be a 50% increase. You need more than a hot cam for that.
Will the cam be available in the U.S.?
Did you have the pin in the camshaft in this video? I didn’t see it. Do you have to enter it before or during? Today i received my camshaft but there is no marking on it (T) for the top death center? How can I know which side is up?
You can tell 'UP' by the location of the pin hole.
I have been looking for this for quite sometime.But it is still out of stock.I Live in India.Will it be available for India?
amazing film, looking forward to doing mine, thanks heaps
do you fit these or just sell them?
You seem to quite adamantly go for the Loctite that RE state. The SI5900. But surely any decent grade of engine silicone gasket would be ok no?
Hi
yes you can use any good Silicone gasket . But this type as good bead retaining properties and working time, Because of this it is used by many top engine building companies on the production line. Porsche use this on 911 turbo cam covers need I say more.
@@TECBikeParts thanks. I managed to get some in the end. The next day I thought it might be a good idea to let the bike tick over for 30mins prior to riding it. I’ve just read that’s the worst thing to do and I should have taken it for a gentler ride slowing the revs to vary. Oh well hopefully it’ll be fine.
Sir will it also fit the new scram from RE cause if I am not wrong it's got the same engine as himalayan...
Hi, Yes it will work in the Scram 411
Thanks , very informative
I have got to get my self one of these asap