Thank you for posting this! I was watching all these people cutting grass with it seemed like this setup was such overkill for 12" prairie grass, my zero turn can handle that stuff. haha I've got a few acres to clear that are similar to what you are posting here and I think the money I can save by doing it myself will just about pay for the entire tractor package. Love it!
CAUTION!!!! DON' GET AOUND THE CUTTER WHEN IN GEAR, IT CAN THROW THINGS FROM UNDER IT AND REALLY HURT YOU SO STAY AWAY FROM IT!! Triple your ground speed and make a full cut. The brush is not thick so mow faster, you will know if it gets overloaded. You have a stump jumper under the cutter so you are safe there. Might want to invest in a PTO clutch if you don't have one...You can probably cut a 3" tree safely, it will sound loud but you are ok, that's what the clutch and stump jumper are for but stay away from it when cutting , a eye injury or broken bone isn't worth the video or close look !!!! Raise the back of your cutter and lower the front, you have debris coming from under the cutter in the front and that endangers the operator,,, let the debris out the back, but again stay 100 ft from the cutter when it's in gear. Have fun and good luck.
The back is closed so nothing can get out. First time in field. they have no idea what trash is in there so going 3x faster is not a good idea. i found a giant pile of barb wire in my field. the cutter was not happy.
Yup I always cringe when I see close up shots like that. A slasher once flung a 4" piece of plain wire out and hit me in the knee from like 15m metres away. I dropped to the ground like a rock. Granted the slasher was open at the back but yeah get something like that hit you in the face and you're done.
Great vid. A lot of folks have told you about lowering the nose of the hog and raising the tail. That does a couple of things. One, it allows the hog to throw debris out the tail end. But, I don't believe I've seen one if the most important reasons yet. By keeping it dead level it makes the tractor cut across the front and the back of the blade path. Meaning, the rear of the blade is cutting the same heavier material that the front did, all the while dealing with the mulching effect. This robs power horribly. By equalizing the hog from side to side it will give you an even cut. But by lowering the front 1-2" from the rear it will help with the mulching, allow the hog to clear what it can't readily mulch, and allow for the blades to cut in the front more aggressively as they were intended. This in effect, will give you, "free power". Don't listen to anyone telling you to travel 3x as fast. That's just idiotic. Find the range and speed the machine will maintain 540, keep the rpm's up and keep the pumps powering the hydrostatic drives. If it "lugs", back off some speed. You've then found where it is most efficient and "happy". Lastly, lower your bucket a bit, but curl it back all the way. Allow the "belly" of the bucket to bend material over. By using the cutting edge you're making the machine work MUCH harder. You could see that in how the machine shuddered when the cutting edge dug into the tree. It had to fight very hard to keep the blades spinning, power the hydrostatic drives, AND fight to bend over the tree. By using the belly of the bucket when it is fully curled it will have a much easier time. Also, if you run into anything like a piece of steel or a large rock it will give you time to stop and not shock load the machine and break anything. It will also save your cutting edge. Good vid, and good luck. That's a great set up and you're trying to be gentle and effective.
your post is contradictory,,,,you say stay slow, but then you say to run engine and cutter fast as governor will maintain 540 rpm. At the ground speed hes traveling at, there is no way hes being efficient and no way that rpm will ever drop at all. Speed up, but not too fast, this is easy cutting, so a fast walking speed will do, lower cutter front to the ground to get better mulching, raise rear one inch higher than front. Rear of cutter clears the ground high enough to let cuttings out, but large sticks will mostly be held in until they are chopped. I see he has men walking along cleaning up the sticks he left behind. Lower the cutter and you wont need them
Thank you for this video. Like you said, there are hundreds of videos showing people mowing grass with it. You really showed what it’s meant to do and helped me make a decision to invest in one.
Raise the back of the bush hog about two inches higher in the back, it will cut a lot better if it can throw the cuttings out the back, they will throw wood hard enough to kill someone, keep people away when cutting! Nice setup, I’ve got the 2020 3035D and a 5 foot cutter. Can’t really tell it’s behind the tractor!
I have a 3035D with 5' heavy-duty BushHog brand cutter. Wading through thick stuff like that is fun as long as no hidden drains or rocks are in there. Have seen some pretty sizeable wood get thrown over 100' out back and sides of mine. Was definitely biting lip for camera operator on this one. 😬
There's already a lot of people here telling you what to do, but I'll add one more. That plastic PTO shaft cover looks like it's rotating. That little chain is there to keep it from rotating. Clip it to the metal PTO shield on the tractor.
Nice work . I have a 3038e tractor with the RC 2060 , it cut down 8 acres of 6 ft high brush easily , nothing over three inches thick , very satisfying results
Nice video. Your 3032 handle that 6 foot cutter at least as well as my 3025d runs my 5 footer. Unsolicited internet advice: people shouldn’t be near the rotary cutter. It’ll throw things out at incredible speed.
Probably doesn't need to be said, but...watch your temp gauge, clean the air screen regularly while brush hogging, and if your cooling fan is exposed, get a skid plate for it.
Remember, its a tractor, not a skidder. I have the 3038e and RC2060 and it does good for its size. You will need to add zip ties to the hydraulic lines at the front of the loader or small sticks will get in between the loader frame and bend the hydraulic lines (from experience). Also, the tractor hydraulic lines that run from the loader valve to the rear of the tractor are exposed and may get damaged in brush like your cutting, especially if you back up while in the heavy brush. As Graham mentioned, drop the tail wheel adjust the height and it will clear the debris better. Overall my 3038e has been great with no mechanical or electrical issues.
I think once you get into thick grass you will find that little tractor doesn't have enough PTO horsepower for that 6 foot brush hog. You only have 25 PTO horsepower. General rule is 5 pto horsepower per foot. But that's good it's working for you 👍
@@20-inch-arms yes if you actually have 40 pto HP you can run an 8 foot hog. Look at some manufacturer specs you can do it. Rhino makes a 12 ft batwing that runs on 35 PTO horsepower yeah depending on what you're using that brush hog for you might want eight horsepower per foot
@@simpleman4196 of course the manufacturers will give you that kind of recommendation, they want you to buy a tractor every two years. But whatever works for ya. I'll stick to the good ole safety factor.
Good video thanks, I just ordered a 60” landpride brush hog for my LX 3310. I’ll be using it to keep the property line down. Lots of heavy Russian olive and saplings. Can’t wait to get it.
Just a tip: for better expelling of mulch and material, and use less horsepower, drop the tail wheel so the rear of the mower deck rides 1-2" HIGHER than the front leading edge of the deck. Less trapping of cuttings occurs and brush is expelled more easily. I've tried both ways and like this result....the mower cuts better because the crud running around underneath gets out so new grass and brush enters unencumbered blades. Great job! Nail them trees!!!
Good video of the brush hog! One thing I didn't think of when I test ran my new brush hog was the safety of people around the equipment. Large branches can become missiles.
Love what you are doing. Just use caution standing son lose to the brush hog in action. I just traded a Massey Ferguson 1726e for a John Deere 3032e. The Massey handled the 5 foot Woods brush hog well in similar conditions as depicted in this video. Can’t wait to see how the JD performs.
Thanks for the video. I own a small landscaping business in Florida and I’ve been thinking about getting a compact tractor for awhile so I can tackle bigger jobs. I had been offering bush hogging through my website and my Google business profile for a few months, but nothing. A few days ago a local commercial property owner reached out to me to hog a vacant lot he owns. I went and looked at the lot and it is mostly this waist high reedy grass we have in Florida. I gave him an estimate and he accepted. Now I’m like crap, I need the tractor. Went and looked at Kubotas, but my local Deere dealer and he has a 3032e on his lot. Anyway, long story, I was wondering how 3032e could hog, and your video popped up in my TH-cam feed this morning. Weird how that happens. When I watched you tear through saplings I was sold. Thanks again for the video.
Pro tip…if you have a tree you wouldn’t run over because of size, leave intact and use a grapple with the weight of the tree or bush and rip it out of the ground. Dealing with a stump is way more difficult without the weight and mechanical advantage of the whole plant…unless you plan to use a stump grinder.
We love love our little Deere, and they are definitely a real work horse for any farm or garden. Just a heads up though to all small John Deere tractor owners (3032E) the front axle comes without a vent which will cause a seal failure. If you did not choose for yours to have a vent it could cost you further down the road. You can add it by checking with your favorite John Deere dealer!💚💛Just FYI!
The tail of that cutter should be an inch or a little better higher than the nose, the idea is so the blades only have to cut once. The way you have it set it cuts it at the height of the blade at nose then has to cut it again when the tail end goes over.
That’s the mulching kit that comes with them. Tho your right most ppl put the standard kit that has the chains that will allow things to flow more smoothly, but if you really want to eat the brush up where you don’t have big chunks left, you would want the mulch kit on there. Plus it’ll help from flinging shit out the back and save the life of this ignorant inexperienced kid who wants to stand right by the hog while it’s running 😂. But yea with brush like this that has the big trees, your gonna want that mulch kit.
I am using that same Bush hog, on a 45 horse John deere had a lot of trouble with the deck cracking so I welded a 3/8The magnesium steel plate under the Deck where the gear box mounts. Cut it out of an old Mack log Truck frame with a Torch.
If you get anything less than a 10 gauge deck you better leave stuff like this alone. Check out the specs on a Bad Boy brush hog. Pay a litte extra up front
There's also the Baumalight PTO version which has been shown on Tractor Time With Tim. They do really good, but are best when paired with at least a 2038R.
About damn time I finally found a youtube video with some real brush hogging. I just started working on a few acres like this with my old Ford 850 and I'm wondering if I was the only other person in the world to use a shredder for some real brush hogging. Most of these other videos are guys "brush hogging" an overgrown hayfield or some other easy work.
if your mowing unknown property roll the loader bucket back about 3" from from level and keep back the bucket a few inches from the ground - that will warn you if you are about to run over some thing big . never mow backing up - the rear of the brush is not built like a back blade and if you hit something it will bend right now . good luck
Thank you for posting this video, it’s great to see someone demonstrating the machine to it’s fullest, I’m looking at an MX5 for my 2038R, I have some heavy areas like you have here in your video Any damage to the blades?
That's impressive most of the videos I watch are people just cutting 23 ft small baby tiny saplings undergrowth tallgrass things like that I utilize the 17 horse Dr field brush mower and of cleared Fields like that with 3 inch saplings it legitimately goes over then it will knock it down it will leave a stump that's closer to the ground than what your video show that that brush hog does but it's very tiring and it does not chop up everything as effectively as your brush hog. It's definitely one of the better videos to show what the abilities are of a tractor tow behind brush can do
My Deere 3038e has a slight problem with the cooling stack; dirt tends to get sucked up against the radiator and will cake up and prevent good airflow. Compressed air after each use will keep it running cool.
I came into comments to say this. I’ve seen rocks thrown, and I caught a maple about 1.5” around and 2’ long just right, and threw it out the side went about 60 yards.
If tou run double pass, raise up 6 imches first then down to 2,will mulch better, and you hog wull last a few more summers, and leaf blow rad case off, hard on the tractor, that walking beside a hog, some crazy shit, human dart board 😂👍 but looks A1 👍
I have the exact same setup as this fellow in the video his JD is made by Yanmar and I have the Yanmar version of his JD same HP etc. and the brush cutter is exactly the same! I bought this brush cutter for exactly what the name "IMPLIES" to cut brush! I took it out to some of my CRP land to knock a few acres of brush that was coming up and I got into it and there was nothing in the 3" diameter range and after about 15 minutes of running this unit I stopped because it was going to tear the gearbox out of it! To call this an actual "brush cutter" is a very misleading statement if your cutting really nice cute little weeds you can go to town if your actually cutting REAL brush this is NOT the way to go!
Try increasing your RPM's, your cutter is designed to run 540 rpm's and if you look at your tach you will see engine rpm's and pto rpm's and run your engine fast enough to turn your pto 540. Might check the gearbox mounting bolts, the ujoints and make sure one is not stuck and check your blades and make sure they are sharp and about the same weight, sounds like you might have a balance problem but you are the judge. I have a 1944 cutter and I have rebuilt the cutter deck several times due to rust, several drive shafts but the blade and gear box are original and it's a fixed straight blade and I will challange any zero turn to see who has the smoothest cut, it's amazing and if I can get the tractor to go over the brush it will grind it up into compost size pieces. They don't make them like this one anymore. Might check and see if all the welds are good around the gearbox, something is loose, it shouldn't do that. If all else fails redeck it with 3/8" plate and weld it good to the existing frame and deck , something is causing it to get out of balance and vibrate. The thin sheet metal deck will make it sound like it's coming apart but it won't. Wish you lived close, we would take a Saturday morning and make you happy with it.
@@pn-du1xg Thanks very much for your comments I would have to agree with you on the differences between old and new technology in these cutters and as usual the new products are not built in the same manner as the older units, so much of this today is the new NORMAL all this stuff is based on PRICE and how competitive they are to the other models out there. I like this brush cutter very much but if I were to use it on heavy stuff (2" to 3") I would have to go through the entire unit and gusset and reinforce the deck and based upon everything I see on it I feel the gear box and possibly the main shaft would be the next weak link! Your comment on the RPMs being to low is dead accurate I think my rated PTO speed is around 2500 engine RPM and I know for sure I was more around the 2000 RPM range which made the problem worse! Thanks much for your ideas and thoughts on this subject PN it gives me more to think about on how best to utilize this cutter!
stubs wouldnt be so bad if you ran bucket about 8 inches high so they didnt break off brush and let cutter handle it. Also seems that cutter is not running at maximum speed. Open the engine up to rated speed on your tachometer to get blades going really fast to shatter the brush. And cutter needs adjustment. Front of it should be at least an inch or lower to get blade closer to the ground and cut fallen limbs and stubs. Adjust rear wheel so that cutter in lowest position has its front as low as possible without skids digging into the ground and rear of cutter held one inch higher than the front. Tractor could be moving at pretty fast walking speed also. Shift a gear or two higher. The larger trees 3" that you left could be cut, but you may be saving them on purpose,,,fun video, thanks
For now we will just brush hog every couple weeks. Long term we are in process of building storage barns so we will lay down landscape fabric + gravel for driveways, rest of space will be barns
@@claymagee5051 It is a light /medium duty rotary cutter. It can cut up to 1 1/2 bush or saplings. That rotary cutter was too big for his tractor. He should have had a 60 inch.
It might be what brush hogs are meant for...but there is absolutely a lack of common sense and good judgement with all persons involved. A healthy knowledge and respect for the power and potential danger when using such equipment goes a long way...
Agreed...however i thought i mentioned in the video that leaving the stumps are fine since we are adding 1-2 feet of fill dirt / gravel over the entire lot eventually
dude get a DRONE for those shots your taking.. when you where walking backwards at 2:38 if you trip and fall the dude was looking back with earmuffs on.. easy crush
Good lord, DO NOT EVER stand that close to one, These machines are no joke and will throw things extremely fast and hard with no warning, You have no idea if there is metal or any type of wood under that grass. PLEASE don't ever stand this close to one they are extremely dangerous
I thought you utube guys made enough money from it to buy a real tractor you aren't going to sell anyone that toy by mistreating it anyone watching can see that pedal tractor won't even lift the mower
Totally the wrong equipment for the task that you are performing. You must not care about taking care of your equipment at all. This is work for a skid steer. You will probably be retirement age by the time you get done with that rig.
Next time use a 94hp 4020 instead of that toy tractor, it’s a 3 hour job otherwise, small tractor don’t have enough power with those little clutches, there are lot heavy duty bush hogs out there then that lightweight Frontier, get a butch hog heavy duty wirly bird rotary cutter
Thank you for posting this! I was watching all these people cutting grass with it seemed like this setup was such overkill for 12" prairie grass, my zero turn can handle that stuff. haha I've got a few acres to clear that are similar to what you are posting here and I think the money I can save by doing it myself will just about pay for the entire tractor package. Love it!
CAUTION!!!! DON' GET AOUND THE CUTTER WHEN IN GEAR, IT CAN THROW THINGS FROM UNDER IT AND REALLY HURT YOU SO STAY AWAY FROM IT!! Triple your ground speed and make a full cut. The brush is not thick so mow faster, you will know if it gets overloaded. You have a stump jumper under the cutter so you are safe there. Might want to invest in a PTO clutch if you don't have one...You can probably cut a 3" tree safely, it will sound loud but you are ok, that's what the clutch and stump jumper are for but stay away from it when cutting , a eye injury or broken bone isn't worth the video or close look !!!! Raise the back of your cutter and lower the front, you have debris coming from under the cutter in the front and that endangers the operator,,, let the debris out the back, but again stay 100 ft from the cutter when it's in gear. Have fun and good luck.
The back is closed so nothing can get out. First time in field. they have no idea what trash is in there so going 3x faster is not a good idea. i found a giant pile of barb wire in my field. the cutter was not happy.
@@allanfarr they said they knew the field so wire surprises are not an issue
Thanks for pointing that out Safety Sam.
Yup I always cringe when I see close up shots like that. A slasher once flung a 4" piece of plain wire out and hit me in the knee from like 15m metres away. I dropped to the ground like a rock. Granted the slasher was open at the back but yeah get something like that hit you in the face and you're done.
Great vid. A lot of folks have told you about lowering the nose of the hog and raising the tail. That does a couple of things. One, it allows the hog to throw debris out the tail end. But, I don't believe I've seen one if the most important reasons yet. By keeping it dead level it makes the tractor cut across the front and the back of the blade path. Meaning, the rear of the blade is cutting the same heavier material that the front did, all the while dealing with the mulching effect. This robs power horribly. By equalizing the hog from side to side it will give you an even cut. But by lowering the front 1-2" from the rear it will help with the mulching, allow the hog to clear what it can't readily mulch, and allow for the blades to cut in the front more aggressively as they were intended. This in effect, will give you, "free power".
Don't listen to anyone telling you to travel 3x as fast. That's just idiotic. Find the range and speed the machine will maintain 540, keep the rpm's up and keep the pumps powering the hydrostatic drives. If it "lugs", back off some speed. You've then found where it is most efficient and "happy".
Lastly, lower your bucket a bit, but curl it back all the way. Allow the "belly" of the bucket to bend material over. By using the cutting edge you're making the machine work MUCH harder. You could see that in how the machine shuddered when the cutting edge dug into the tree. It had to fight very hard to keep the blades spinning, power the hydrostatic drives, AND fight to bend over the tree. By using the belly of the bucket when it is fully curled it will have a much easier time. Also, if you run into anything like a piece of steel or a large rock it will give you time to stop and not shock load the machine and break anything. It will also save your cutting edge.
Good vid, and good luck. That's a great set up and you're trying to be gentle and effective.
Great advice!
@@jonathanlemire2797 thank you, kind Sir.
your post is contradictory,,,,you say stay slow, but then you say to run engine and cutter fast as governor will maintain 540 rpm. At the ground speed hes traveling at, there is no way hes being efficient and no way that rpm will ever drop at all. Speed up, but not too fast, this is easy cutting, so a fast walking speed will do, lower cutter front to the ground to get better mulching, raise rear one inch higher than front. Rear of cutter clears the ground high enough to let cuttings out, but large sticks will mostly be held in until they are chopped. I see he has men walking along cleaning up the sticks he left behind. Lower the cutter and you wont need them
About time someone posted real brush hogging as opposed to simply cutting grass with an expensive lawn mower.
Thank you for this video. Like you said, there are hundreds of videos showing people mowing grass with it. You really showed what it’s meant to do and helped me make a decision to invest in one.
Raise the back of the bush hog about two inches higher in the back, it will cut a lot better if it can throw the cuttings out the back, they will throw wood hard enough to kill someone, keep people away when cutting! Nice setup, I’ve got the 2020 3035D and a 5 foot cutter. Can’t really tell it’s behind the tractor!
I have a 3035D with 5' heavy-duty BushHog brand cutter. Wading through thick stuff like that is fun as long as no hidden drains or rocks are in there. Have seen some pretty sizeable wood get thrown over 100' out back and sides of mine. Was definitely biting lip for camera operator on this one. 😬
@@williamgaines9784 the 3035D is a great little tractor, I bought pallet forks with mine, I use them a lot, can’t imagine not having them!
There's already a lot of people here telling you what to do, but I'll add one more. That plastic PTO shaft cover looks like it's rotating. That little chain is there to keep it from rotating. Clip it to the metal PTO shield on the tractor.
Definitely a good example of what it can do.
Nice work . I have a 3038e tractor with the RC 2060 , it cut down 8 acres of 6 ft high brush easily , nothing over three inches thick , very satisfying results
I welded jagged angle iron around the back of mine and back into the small trees.Cuts em right down.
Nice video. Your 3032 handle that 6 foot cutter at least as well as my 3025d runs my 5 footer. Unsolicited internet advice: people shouldn’t be near the rotary cutter. It’ll throw things out at incredible speed.
Probably doesn't need to be said, but...watch your temp gauge, clean the air screen regularly while brush hogging, and if your cooling fan is exposed, get a skid plate for it.
Remember, its a tractor, not a skidder. I have the 3038e and RC2060 and it does good for its size. You will need to add zip ties to the hydraulic lines at the front of the loader or small sticks will get in between the loader frame and bend the hydraulic lines (from experience). Also, the tractor hydraulic lines that run from the loader valve to the rear of the tractor are exposed and may get damaged in brush like your cutting, especially if you back up while in the heavy brush. As Graham mentioned, drop the tail wheel adjust the height and it will clear the debris better. Overall my 3038e has been great with no mechanical or electrical issues.
I think once you get into thick grass you will find that little tractor doesn't have enough PTO horsepower for that 6 foot brush hog. You only have 25 PTO horsepower. General rule is 5 pto horsepower per foot. But that's good it's working for you 👍
Don't use the stupid 5hp per foot rule. Honestly, do you think a 40hp tractor can use a n 8 foot bush hog??? Rrreeeaaalllyyy???
@@20-inch-arms yes if you actually have 40 pto HP you can run an 8 foot hog. Look at some manufacturer specs you can do it. Rhino makes a 12 ft batwing that runs on 35 PTO horsepower yeah depending on what you're using that brush hog for you might want eight horsepower per foot
@@simpleman4196 of course the manufacturers will give you that kind of recommendation, they want you to buy a tractor every two years. But whatever works for ya. I'll stick to the good ole safety factor.
@Shawn- The hog will be fine in thick grass. Just slow it down a bit if it’s struggling. No need to hog at 10mph.
It did sound a lil slow and underpowered. Got the job done but not in any record time and if time is money their setup is mismatched.
Good video thanks, I just ordered a 60” landpride brush hog for my LX 3310. I’ll be using it to keep the property line down. Lots of heavy Russian olive and saplings. Can’t wait to get it.
Just a tip: for better expelling of mulch and material, and use less horsepower, drop the tail wheel so the rear of the mower deck rides 1-2" HIGHER than the front leading edge of the deck. Less trapping of cuttings occurs and brush is expelled more easily. I've tried both ways and like this result....the mower cuts better because the crud running around underneath gets out so new grass and brush enters unencumbered blades. Great job! Nail them trees!!!
Great suggestion, we will try that next time we are out!
Yep, the back of the cutter should be about 2” higher than the front!
Good video of the brush hog! One thing I didn't think of when I test ran my new brush hog was the safety of people around the equipment. Large branches can become missiles.
300 feet away or die
Love what you are doing. Just use caution standing son lose to the brush hog in action. I just traded a Massey Ferguson 1726e for a John Deere 3032e. The Massey handled the 5 foot Woods brush hog well in similar conditions as depicted in this video. Can’t wait to see how the JD performs.
Thanks for the video. I own a small landscaping business in Florida and I’ve been thinking about getting a compact tractor for awhile so I can tackle bigger jobs. I had been offering bush hogging through my website and my Google business profile for a few months, but nothing. A few days ago a local commercial property owner reached out to me to hog a vacant lot he owns. I went and looked at the lot and it is mostly this waist high reedy grass we have in Florida. I gave him an estimate and he accepted. Now I’m like crap, I need the tractor. Went and looked at Kubotas, but my local Deere dealer and he has a 3032e on his lot. Anyway, long story, I was wondering how 3032e could hog, and your video popped up in my TH-cam feed this morning. Weird how that happens. When I watched you tear through saplings I was sold. Thanks again for the video.
Pro tip…if you have a tree you wouldn’t run over because of size, leave intact and use a grapple with the weight of the tree or bush and rip it out of the ground. Dealing with a stump is way more difficult without the weight and mechanical advantage of the whole plant…unless you plan to use a stump grinder.
That brush is easier to cut than thick tall grass lol
That setup is nice
I learned the hard way you don't go back over stuff you have already cut those small stumps sticking up will go through a tire in a minute
We love love our little Deere, and they are definitely a real work horse for any farm or garden. Just a heads up though to all small John Deere tractor owners (3032E) the front axle comes without a vent which will cause a seal failure. If you did not choose for yours to have a vent it could cost you further down the road. You can add it by checking with your favorite John Deere dealer!💚💛Just FYI!
Good point. I just leave my fill diip stick slightly loose.
The tail of that cutter should be an inch or a little better higher than the nose, the idea is so the blades only have to cut once. The way you have it set it cuts it at the height of the blade at nose then has to cut it again when the tail end goes over.
Remove that rear cover that is held by four screws.Material will come out more faster and it will be easier for tractor to handle it.
That’s the mulching kit that comes with them. Tho your right most ppl put the standard kit that has the chains that will allow things to flow more smoothly, but if you really want to eat the brush up where you don’t have big chunks left, you would want the mulch kit on there. Plus it’ll help from flinging shit out the back and save the life of this ignorant inexperienced kid who wants to stand right by the hog while it’s running 😂. But yea with brush like this that has the big trees, your gonna want that mulch kit.
Looks like a pretty new tractor…IDK if I would want to cut through that🤔maybe after a few scratches, a few 100 hrs😃
Its a work horse not a show piece
I am using that same Bush hog, on a 45 horse John deere had a lot of trouble with the deck cracking so I welded a 3/8The magnesium steel plate under the Deck where the gear box mounts. Cut it out of an old Mack log Truck frame with a Torch.
If you get anything less than a 10 gauge deck you better leave stuff like this alone. Check out the specs on a Bad Boy brush hog. Pay a litte extra up front
@@jamesdannelly6760 Why not just buy a Black Sheep Right of way mower, your only talking small brush?
I'm amazed that you didn't get a flat tire or two thats what they make forestry mulchers for.
There's also the Baumalight PTO version which has been shown on Tractor Time With Tim. They do really good, but are best when paired with at least a 2038R.
About damn time I finally found a youtube video with some real brush hogging. I just started working on a few acres like this with my old Ford 850 and I'm wondering if I was the only other person in the world to use a shredder for some real brush hogging. Most of these other videos are guys "brush hogging" an overgrown hayfield or some other easy work.
if your mowing unknown property roll the loader bucket back about 3" from from level and keep back the bucket a few inches from the ground - that will warn you if you are about to run over some thing big . never mow backing up - the rear of the brush is not built like a back blade and if you hit something it will bend right now . good luck
Thank you for posting this video, it’s great to see someone demonstrating the machine to it’s fullest, I’m looking at an MX5 for my 2038R, I have some heavy areas like you have here in your video
Any damage to the blades?
no damage, no issues. 3+ years later.
Thank you for posting this I have a question is you don't mind answer what you charge for this?
This might be the thickest brush cut with a compact tractor on You Tube.
Sir if you really think that I got a boat load of videos I need to recommend you too, cause they will blow your mind! Haha 👍🏼
@@joshridgell4312 Please do.
@@SlainteFromFlorida I gotcha bud 👍🏼 I’ll drop some links.
That's impressive most of the videos I watch are people just cutting 23 ft small baby tiny saplings undergrowth tallgrass things like that I utilize the 17 horse Dr field brush mower and of cleared Fields like that with 3 inch saplings it legitimately goes over then it will knock it down it will leave a stump that's closer to the ground than what your video show that that brush hog does but it's very tiring and it does not chop up everything as effectively as your brush hog. It's definitely one of the better videos to show what the abilities are of a tractor tow behind brush can do
My Deere 3038e has a slight problem with the cooling stack; dirt tends to get sucked up against the radiator and will cake up and prevent good airflow. Compressed air after each use will keep it running cool.
The back is to low and you are WAY TO CLOSE WITH THAT CAMERA.
Holy shit, that was really stupid to be so close to a machine that will kick fist sized rocks out over a hundred feet.
Seriously - these guys are going to learn a painful lesson
I came into comments to say this. I’ve seen rocks thrown, and I caught a maple about 1.5” around and 2’ long just right, and threw it out the side went about 60 yards.
Yall are braver than I am. Bush hogging is not a spectator operation.
Man I need something like that for my gorse here in NZ !
I’m am impressed it did so well. A second pass would really finish it off and make it ready for regular maintenance. What did you charge for the job?
If tou run double pass, raise up 6 imches first then down to 2,will mulch better, and you hog wull last a few more summers, and leaf blow rad case off, hard on the tractor, that walking beside a hog, some crazy shit, human dart board 😂👍 but looks A1 👍
I have the exact same setup as this fellow in the video his JD is made by Yanmar and I have the Yanmar version of his JD same HP etc. and the brush cutter is exactly the same! I bought this brush cutter for exactly what the name "IMPLIES" to cut brush! I took it out to some of my CRP land to knock a few acres of brush that was coming up and I got into it and there was nothing in the 3" diameter range and after about 15 minutes of running this unit I stopped because it was going to tear the gearbox out of it! To call this an actual "brush cutter" is a very misleading statement if your cutting really nice cute little weeds you can go to town if your actually cutting REAL brush this is NOT the way to go!
Try increasing your RPM's, your cutter is designed to run 540 rpm's and if you look at your tach you will see engine rpm's and pto rpm's and run your engine fast enough to turn your pto 540. Might check the gearbox mounting bolts, the ujoints and make sure one is not stuck and check your blades and make sure they are sharp and about the same weight, sounds like you might have a balance problem but you are the judge. I have a 1944 cutter and I have rebuilt the cutter deck several times due to rust, several drive shafts but the blade and gear box are original and it's a fixed straight blade and I will challange any zero turn to see who has the smoothest cut, it's amazing and if I can get the tractor to go over the brush it will grind it up into compost size pieces. They don't make them like this one anymore. Might check and see if all the welds are good around the gearbox, something is loose, it shouldn't do that. If all else fails redeck it with 3/8" plate and weld it good to the existing frame and deck , something is causing it to get out of balance and vibrate. The thin sheet metal deck will make it sound like it's coming apart but it won't. Wish you lived close, we would take a Saturday morning and make you happy with it.
@@pn-du1xg Thanks very much for your comments I would have to agree with you on the differences between old and new technology in these cutters and as usual the new products are not built in the same manner as the older units, so much of this today is the new NORMAL all this stuff is based on PRICE and how competitive they are to the other models out there. I like this brush cutter very much but if I were to use it on heavy stuff (2" to 3") I would have to go through the entire unit and gusset and reinforce the deck and based upon everything I see on it I feel the gear box and possibly the main shaft would be the next weak link! Your comment on the RPMs being to low is dead accurate I think my rated PTO speed is around 2500 engine RPM and I know for sure I was more around the 2000 RPM range which made the problem worse! Thanks much for your ideas and thoughts on this subject PN it gives me more to think about on how best to utilize this cutter!
I have the exact cutter a 2072 and I wouldn't put mine thru those trees🤷♂️maybe it would handle it without any damage.
how many flat tyres did you get from all those stumps?
none
Looking for a brush hog for my tractor, the same as you have here. How's that hog holding up after 3 years of use?
Holding up great. No major issues!
stubs wouldnt be so bad if you ran bucket about 8 inches high so they didnt break off brush and let cutter handle it. Also seems that cutter is not running at maximum speed. Open the engine up to rated speed on your tachometer to get blades going really fast to shatter the brush. And cutter needs adjustment. Front of it should be at least an inch or lower to get blade closer to the ground and cut fallen limbs and stubs. Adjust rear wheel so that cutter in lowest position has its front as low as possible without skids digging into the ground and rear of cutter held one inch higher than the front. Tractor could be moving at pretty fast walking speed also. Shift a gear or two higher. The larger trees 3" that you left could be cut, but you may be saving them on purpose,,,fun video, thanks
Are you running in low, med, or high gear and what rpm? 2 or 4 WD?
Get a cordless grinder touch up your blade daily will make a world of difference
Looking at a 3025e. Do you think a 3025e would be able to run a 72”?
You will probably want a 60” cutter, a 72” is to much for a 25hp hydrostatic tractor!
that might be to large for a 3025, try a 60" brush hog
I would back into the brush, I be afraid to do damage to you hoses or linkage underneath
I rarely cut brush forward. Too much crap rubbing underneath.
What are you going to do about resprout? Herbicide? I've got same tractor!
For now we will just brush hog every couple weeks. Long term we are in process of building storage barns so we will lay down landscape fabric + gravel for driveways, rest of space will be barns
Cuánto puede valer un remolque , como el del inicio del vídeo, gracias.
Muy buen video.. muestra la fortaleza del tractor y la cortadora
Un saludo desde Misiones, Argentina
If you think that grass was thick. Watch out for grass and mustard.
nice..
Outstanding. That was awesome.
Quais e o valor desse pequeno trato
Around $2k
whats something like this cost?
22k for the whole set up
What grade hog is that med grade ?
Meaning like light,med or heavy duty
@@claymagee5051 It is a light /medium duty rotary cutter. It can cut up to 1 1/2 bush or saplings. That rotary cutter was too big for his tractor. He should have had a 60 inch.
Is everybody here an expert? These comments are funnier that the musician threads.
Hello nice but it is not cool to be walking close to a working BH, I have a 7 foot you never know what your going to hit and what will fly out.
Can you call it Brush Hogging if it’s not a genuine Brush Hog?
it may have been noted - but very dangerous the PTO Shaft is spinning - should be chained off. potential hazard of something getting crapped around
Why not tow a chipper behind the brush hog, but wear eye protection ....better than a fire!
Seem to be babying the new equipment, don’t scratch it.
/s
it was the first time being used. A week later she had some battle wounds.
that mower wont be worth a shit when they get thru fuckin it up
That’s a money maker
Too much cutter for that small of tractor,5 ft would cut better at correct pto speed
It might be what brush hogs are meant for...but there is absolutely a lack of common sense and good judgement with all persons involved. A healthy knowledge and respect for the power and potential danger when using such equipment goes a long way...
The 3032e has more doubters and proven more people wrong then any other compact tractor. ! 😜
I would drive around none of those, or as few as possible. Cut in reverse and let that baby do the work.
There ain’t no way you run that 6 foot bush hog efficiently, not with that horsepower.
lots of nice stumps leftover. Still cant mow it with a mower at this point. Get the right equipment for the job next time.
Agreed...however i thought i mentioned in the video that leaving the stumps are fine since we are adding 1-2 feet of fill dirt / gravel over the entire lot eventually
2 feet of fill should do the job i would think! lol
dude get a DRONE for those shots your taking.. when you where walking backwards at 2:38 if you trip and fall the dude was looking back with earmuffs on.. easy crush
It's definitely not smart standing that close to an operating brush hog
Chinese fire drill....
Good lord, DO NOT EVER stand that close to one, These machines are no joke and will throw things extremely fast and hard with no warning, You have no idea if there is metal or any type of wood under that grass. PLEASE don't ever stand this close to one they are extremely dangerous
I thought you utube guys made enough money from it to buy a real tractor you aren't going to sell anyone that toy by mistreating it anyone watching can see that pedal tractor won't even lift the mower
Amatör kamera.
Totally the wrong equipment for the task that you are performing. You must not care about taking care of your equipment at all. This is work for a skid steer. You will probably be retirement age by the time you get done with that rig.
It doesnt do a very good job. Dont buy it.
Next time use a 94hp 4020 instead of that toy tractor, it’s a 3 hour job otherwise, small tractor don’t have enough power with those little clutches, there are lot heavy duty bush hogs out there then that lightweight Frontier, get a butch hog heavy duty wirly bird rotary cutter