Hey Em. Always great to hear from you!! Thanks for watching til the end. Jim likes to put surprises in there to see who comments. You should get an award, haha
****Tip for Wiping: A friend, Mirena, suggested to try Mr Clean Magic Erasers for getting a clean surface when wiping back the pigments from the clay. I havent tried it but she does it with success. 😀
I’ve heard of this and have tried it, it does work! Some things for washes come off very cleanly usually, like underglazes, but I’ve had some situations where I have not been as happy with how well a stain or oxide wash came off, particularly some pretty groggy clays. So a lot of the time now I Sgraffito or carve through wax so that the stain inlay is very easy to wipe off, but I also make some pretty big things and that can use up a ton of wax, so I have tried the Magic Erasers and they do work pretty well! Depends on the clay and the oxide or stain, but definitely a big difference from water and a sponge! I try and cut them up into little squares for this as a little part of it goes a long way, and it means I use less of the Magic Erasers. Really good tip, I don’t think I would have thought to mention it without seeing you say this, but I just wanted to add it really can make a difference! The other thing, which is less great, is sometimes having to wet sand/use diamond pads to remove some of the outer layer if the stain in stubborn and I won’t totally ruin my whole texture! India Ink makes a great general black wash BTW, it wipes off really well and if you bisque fire it on it will be permanent. You can even put it on after a glaze fire, so you can Sgraffito through your glaze if you don’t love how something turned out and then put India Ink and rub it off and then fire it again if it is something that will likely get washed. It’s pretty affordable too! Much more affordable usually than say a pint of black underglaze, and the oxides for making a black stain are usually a combo (give or take) of red iron oxide, copper oxide, cobalt oxide, and sometimes manganese, chrome, or nickel even, depending on how dark you want it and what kind of black you want, which can especially with the cobalt get pricey. Not that I’d recommend it for anything other than washes/inlay, can’t stain slip with India Ink or anything (too bad!).
Hahaha. That pickle dish didn’t do so well!! How fun!! I have seen these used but it seems like there are so many variations that it would be hard to get the hang of. I have enough on my plate with just my regular glazes. Thanks so much for all of your knowledge you share with us!
Haha, I wondered who would watch to the end to see that. Actually, when I first saw that combo on colors I wasnt sure of that color combo together but as time is marching forward it is actually starting to grow on me. I do like how the stains settled in the crevices, it was just that combo of the vomit brown and the acid green that would not be as appetizing. haha
@@annruel1982 If it’s growing on you it may be catchy, so stay far away! You don’t want to look like that dish!! Hahaha I rewound it to see it a few times and it was definitely an odd combo. Lol
Hey, good to hear from you. The information that Georgies puts out says they recommend that you do not spray these but brush or wipe them on. They are messy and they spread easily too. For safety sake, if you were to experiment with spraying I would say to do it outdoors or do it with a mask as it is never a good idea to have that in a closed air space.
The clear glaze you put over the pigments, where do you find it or do you have a favorite? Beginner here and don't want to buy several to only find one I like. Oh, and is it just one coat even though it is brushed on?
Hey Crunchybeen. the clear I used on these was one of Georgie's clear glazes. I used the Zinc Free Clear and the Ultra Clear. both interact with the pigments in their own way and have their own merits. I bet if you access to a clear glaze, you could experiment with that as well and see how that reacts to the pigments.
thanks, super inspiring. I am wondering how Georgie's keeps the pigments in suspension. I use mason stains mixed with frit and water but must keep stirring them and if I let them sit a while they dry out. I mix only what I need at the time and mix them up in a small petri-size bowl.
Hi Linda. They recommend the same instructions as you are describing. They dont stay in suspension either. You stir it up really well, use a little at a time and dilute with water. I dont know what their recipes are for their pigments but I also have made my own oxide/frit stains like you. I enjoyed using these as I havent played with stains in a long time.
You can call them and literally ask that question directly to their chemist. I've done it many times to help with the suspension of my homemade glazes.
For those looking to have their washes or stains they make up 1:2 or 1:1 usually with frit or gerstley borate usually stay in suspension better and brush on better, mix in a small amount of gum, like CMC or gum arabic (pre-mixed in water usually about 30 grams to a liter of HOT water left mixed in over night and re-blended the next day, with a pinch of copper carbonate to stop it from rotting-works for stopping your natural bone ash from stinking in your glazes as well) and a little bit of glycerine and propylene glycol- these will help keep them in suspension and not needing to be mixed every two seconds and makes for a better brushing experience. If you are still having trouble keeping them in suspension use a flocculant, vinegar is a weaker one and doesn’t work as well on things that don’t have some clay in them, but a small amount of Epsom salts or calcium chloride, again pre-mixed into a solution and just adding a drop or two, until it is staying well suspended, can help, that and adding a tiny bit of bentonite to the washes especially if you mix them up into a larger amount, which you can just keep around then in a covered jar, as clay really helps with suspension but like the 2% you might add to a glaze that is hard panning isn’t going to change the color of the wash or change the texture that much, as long as you mix up like half a cup or more at a time of the wash, if you are only doing a tablespoon or so then its hard to get a small enough amount of clay in there to help without it changing it. Many people use diluted underglazes as washes, myself included, though I now make my own underglazes, and commercial underglazes do have a decent amount of clay, flux (feldspars and usually some frits too), and some silica along with the huge amounts of stain they put in, plus tons of CMC, propylene glycol, and glycerine to make them have such bright colors and nice brushing characteristics, so really to keep your stain suspended you basically change it to an underglaze. If you search for underglaze on Glazy there is a fantastic old recipe from Vince Pitelka, it pretty much has everything I’ve mentioned here in it and produces a wonderful product that you can adjust the thickness of, intensity of color, how much of the brushing medium you prefer etc. It definitely stays well suspended even when diluted to very watery.
Hi Heidi. I am not sure exactly what oxide blends Georgies uses, but I think you could look up some recipes for stains and experiment with them to find some unique results.
Hey deep ashtray. I did see something about reduction in the pdf they provided with these. They said you can fire these from cone 05 all the way up to cone 10 and even in reduction. I have not tried it though.
@@deepashtray5605 Thanks so much. I had a paper embossing plate that made the impressions for those test tiles. They worked perfectly for this experiment.
These seem like a real…disappointing waste of money. They appear to just be the pigments we use for making glazes, some mixed together to give different colors, without necessarily the spinel processing or encapsulation (not to mention the very extensive line of stable colors) that actual stain producers make like Mason Stains or DeGussa, which have extremely extensive color palettes and the benefit of being pretty inert and less likely to leach. These appear to just be oxides mixed up in some water, for a lot more money than just buying the oxides themselves and using them…I could tell while watching which oxides were in most of them, would be extremely easy to just make yourself for less money. It would be one thing if they had a really extensive line of colors for much cheaper than buying the oxides alone and mixing them, but this feels like a really lazy product on the part of Georgies. I usually don’t try to be negative with my comments on here, but especially for just being used for texture inlay, when there are so many more things you can do with either pure metallic oxide pigments or actual fritted stains, seems like it is worth more bang for your buck to buy actual oxides and easily mix your own, even if you aren’t into making your own glazes (which I HIGHLY recommend, commercial glazes are for the most part a huge rip off) I would definitely suggest buying a palette of stains, I’m pretty happy with Mason stains in the US, and they sell to quite a bit of the world these days and most countries have at least one of the big stain lines produced around the world available, those can easily do this but also do so much more, like coloring slips and homemade underglazes (search for underglaze on Glazy and use Vince Pitelka’s recipe for making underglazes for 1/4 or less the price of buying them with a much bigger palette should you so choose and way more control) and coloring terra sigs, glazes, colored clay, majolica in-glaze stains just to begin with, there is even more you can do with stains, and if you buy small amounts of oxides to mix your own pigments they can be used as washes over glazes, to fume, stain or flash pots in pit/barrel/saggar firing, be mixed in to commercial glazes to alter them, and be used for pretty much everything a stain can be used for, just with a bit less stability and consistency compared to the pre-fired fritted stains like Mason, etc, which isn’t necessarily a bad thing! This is just so easy to do that these products really don’t need to exist. For those looking to have their washes or stains they make up 1:2 or 1:1 usually with frit or gerstley borate usually stay in suspension better and brush on better, mix in a small amount of gum, like CMC or gum arabic (pre-mixed in water usually about 30 grams to a liter of HOT water left mixed in over night and re-blended the next day, with a pinch of copper carbonate to stop it from rotting-works for stopping your natural bone ash from stinking in your glazes as well) and a little bit of glycerine and propylene glycol- these will help keep them in suspension and not needing to be mixed every two seconds and makes for a better brushing experience.
Hey Aubrey. If you are the type of person who already has the resources to make their own glazes I would say that you can experiment or follow recipes to make your own stains. You are right. Good on ya. the way I look at it is that these are for people who may not have the room or knowledge or resources to make their own stains or glazes. If you are one of those people, Georgies has developed a way to help those people out. Happy potting to you Aubrey!
@@annruel1982 I think the point I was trying to make is that for people who don’t make their own glazes, I still think these are less quality for the money than just going with Mason or whatever stains are available to them, or that they can buy small amounts of oxides and easily mix their own versions of these for quite a bit less money with very little glaze know-how, most places will sell most oxides or stains for 1/4 lb or less, which gives them the flexibility to do a lot more than these do, I just think even for people who do not make their own glazes they are a rip off…long before I was making my own glazes I had lots of stains. I’ve actually been looking in addition to the series of courses I am starting for some short ebooks I could write, and this has given me an idea to write a cheap guide to using oxides and stains without having to be making glazes and all the uses and best combinations, I really think these are overpriced limited combinations stains essentially but for the same or more cost than stains that have actually been formed into spinels and that you don’t need to know anything about glaze chemistry really to make your own slips, underglazes, colored terra sigs, colored clay, washes, majolica colors etc…you just need some very basic knowledge about the differences between metallic oxides and stains and the best ways to use them and some basic recipes and health and safety info. I get why you might feel this provides an option to people, but I feel it really sort of takes advantage of them by charging more for literally just combining a few oxides to make some colors and mixing them in a jar with instructions to add water and selling them for 3 or 4x what people could easily mix them up for themselves. You don’t have to be all in to glazes to do this, or to make your own colored slips (I mean very few places sell them so people instead of easily making their own slips have turned to using super overpriced underglazes, which they can easily make themselves too as well as slips without any knowledge of glaze chemistry). I also just want to take the fear away from ceramic chemistry as well, it is really easy and I want people to be less intimidated by it! I hate seeing a lot of suppliers taking advantage of people and making them really dependent on buying super overpriced commercial products so much, when it is really quite simple to do a lot of things yourselves even if you don’t want to go as far yet as making their own glazes, or maybe they are in a studio where glazes are provided and they have little choice in glazes while they are at a community studio, and not everyone can have a home or private studio to make glazes. But there are a ton of other ways they can use oxides and stains besides glazes and not pay a fortune! That’s what gets me, they charge 5x the price of what it costs me to make my underglazes or glazes, or even more, most people have become really dependent on pricey underglazes because they don’t know how easy it is to make their own slips and underglazes for a fraction of the cost. It is just like these places selling a pint of sodium silicate for 3x the cost you can get a gallon of it on Amazon or US Pigments, and the two suppliers in my state, which you think having two within 20 minutes of each other would mean competitive prices for us, but I quickly found out early on when I was buying glazes that the two stores price fixed it so we were paying literally at least 2x the amount for a pint of glaze or underglaze as what most other suppliers were selling for them when I looked online and I was outraged. I now make my own clays, almost all of them cost half or less what I would pay to buy pugged clay…not that I expect everyone to go for that, for me it is actually easier since I make paperclay and build quite a bit out of slip or cast my slabs instead of rolling them (really saves my hands and no expensive equipment!), so I just hate seeing suppliers taking advantage of so many people. I think I will get to work on an ebook of all the ways to use oxides and stains besides glazes so hopefully I can save more people money in the long run, and frankly there is something to be said for being a self sufficient ceramist, with supply shortages these days and glaze companies stopping online orders, which is pretty bad I imagine for the people out there who are not close to a supplier, or who have suppliers that way overcharge!
Shout-out to Georgie's!!! They are the best and their shop is like a candy store for ceramic artists.
What fun, Ann! Thank you for sharing the testing and then the piece work! So many cool things and if course your sense of humor at the end... ❤️❤️❤️❤️
Hey Em. Always great to hear from you!! Thanks for watching til the end. Jim likes to put surprises in there to see who comments. You should get an award, haha
You and hubby are so fun. Love the extra work that goes into this. Have learned a lot!
****Tip for Wiping: A friend, Mirena, suggested to try Mr Clean Magic Erasers for getting a clean surface when wiping back the pigments from the clay. I havent tried it but she does it with success. 😀
I’ve heard of this and have tried it, it does work! Some things for washes come off very cleanly usually, like underglazes, but I’ve had some situations where I have not been as happy with how well a stain or oxide wash came off, particularly some pretty groggy clays. So a lot of the time now I Sgraffito or carve through wax so that the stain inlay is very easy to wipe off, but I also make some pretty big things and that can use up a ton of wax, so I have tried the Magic Erasers and they do work pretty well! Depends on the clay and the oxide or stain, but definitely a big difference from water and a sponge! I try and cut them up into little squares for this as a little part of it goes a long way, and it means I use less of the Magic Erasers. Really good tip, I don’t think I would have thought to mention it without seeing you say this, but I just wanted to add it really can make a difference! The other thing, which is less great, is sometimes having to wet sand/use diamond pads to remove some of the outer layer if the stain in stubborn and I won’t totally ruin my whole texture! India Ink makes a great general black wash BTW, it wipes off really well and if you bisque fire it on it will be permanent. You can even put it on after a glaze fire, so you can Sgraffito through your glaze if you don’t love how something turned out and then put India Ink and rub it off and then fire it again if it is something that will likely get washed. It’s pretty affordable too! Much more affordable usually than say a pint of black underglaze, and the oxides for making a black stain are usually a combo (give or take) of red iron oxide, copper oxide, cobalt oxide, and sometimes manganese, chrome, or nickel even, depending on how dark you want it and what kind of black you want, which can especially with the cobalt get pricey. Not that I’d recommend it for anything other than washes/inlay, can’t stain slip with India Ink or anything (too bad!).
@@aubreytauer7308 ¹
@@aubreytauer7308 Great tips Aubrey!!! Thanks so much!!!
Love your channel, I am learning so much and appreciate it! Beginning potter.
Thanks so much Gia!!! You just made my day!
I have several and tree bark and autumn foliage are my favs.
Your AWESOME ANN
Thank you for all the great videos, and the humor!
Is this the type of pigment wash that you used on the back of the shell dish in the stamp video?
Hahaha. That pickle dish didn’t do so well!! How fun!! I have seen these used but it seems like there are so many variations that it would be hard to get the hang of. I have enough on my plate with just my regular glazes. Thanks so much for all of your knowledge you share with us!
Haha, I wondered who would watch to the end to see that. Actually, when I first saw that combo on colors I wasnt sure of that color combo together but as time is marching forward it is actually starting to grow on me. I do like how the stains settled in the crevices, it was just that combo of the vomit brown and the acid green that would not be as appetizing. haha
@@annruel1982 If it’s growing on you it may be catchy, so stay far away! You don’t want to look like that dish!! Hahaha I rewound it to see it a few times and it was definitely an odd combo. Lol
@@micheledickey4066 Hahahahaha!!! Thanks for the laugh today Michele!! Maybe I need to see a doctor, haha.
Can you use this with your atomizer sprayer or with stencils? ( or is it too runny for stencils?) Thanks for your great video!!
Hey, good to hear from you. The information that Georgies puts out says they recommend that you do not spray these but brush or wipe them on. They are messy and they spread easily too. For safety sake, if you were to experiment with spraying I would say to do it outdoors or do it with a mask as it is never a good idea to have that in a closed air space.
The clear glaze you put over the pigments, where do you find it or do you have a favorite? Beginner here and don't want to buy several to only find one I like. Oh, and is it just one coat even though it is brushed on?
Hey Crunchybeen. the clear I used on these was one of Georgie's clear glazes. I used the Zinc Free Clear and the Ultra Clear. both interact with the pigments in their own way and have their own merits. I bet if you access to a clear glaze, you could experiment with that as well and see how that reacts to the pigments.
thanks, super inspiring. I am wondering how Georgie's keeps the pigments in suspension. I use mason stains mixed with frit and water but must keep stirring them and if I let them sit a while they dry out. I mix only what I need at the time and mix them up in a small petri-size bowl.
Hi Linda. They recommend the same instructions as you are describing. They dont stay in suspension either. You stir it up really well, use a little at a time and dilute with water. I dont know what their recipes are for their pigments but I also have made my own oxide/frit stains like you. I enjoyed using these as I havent played with stains in a long time.
You can call them and literally ask that question directly to their chemist. I've done it many times to help with the suspension of my homemade glazes.
For those looking to have their washes or stains they make up 1:2 or 1:1 usually with frit or gerstley borate usually stay in suspension better and brush on better, mix in a small amount of gum, like CMC or gum arabic (pre-mixed in water usually about 30 grams to a liter of HOT water left mixed in over night and re-blended the next day, with a pinch of copper carbonate to stop it from rotting-works for stopping your natural bone ash from stinking in your glazes as well) and a little bit of glycerine and propylene glycol- these will help keep them in suspension and not needing to be mixed every two seconds and makes for a better brushing experience. If you are still having trouble keeping them in suspension use a flocculant, vinegar is a weaker one and doesn’t work as well on things that don’t have some clay in them, but a small amount of Epsom salts or calcium chloride, again pre-mixed into a solution and just adding a drop or two, until it is staying well suspended, can help, that and adding a tiny bit of bentonite to the washes especially if you mix them up into a larger amount, which you can just keep around then in a covered jar, as clay really helps with suspension but like the 2% you might add to a glaze that is hard panning isn’t going to change the color of the wash or change the texture that much, as long as you mix up like half a cup or more at a time of the wash, if you are only doing a tablespoon or so then its hard to get a small enough amount of clay in there to help without it changing it. Many people use diluted underglazes as washes, myself included, though I now make my own underglazes, and commercial underglazes do have a decent amount of clay, flux (feldspars and usually some frits too), and some silica along with the huge amounts of stain they put in, plus tons of CMC, propylene glycol, and glycerine to make them have such bright colors and nice brushing characteristics, so really to keep your stain suspended you basically change it to an underglaze. If you search for underglaze on Glazy there is a fantastic old recipe from Vince Pitelka, it pretty much has everything I’ve mentioned here in it and produces a wonderful product that you can adjust the thickness of, intensity of color, how much of the brushing medium you prefer etc. It definitely stays well suspended even when diluted to very watery.
Hello Anne I'm wondering are stains the same as pigments? Can I get the same effect using stains watering it down
Hi Heidi. I am not sure exactly what oxide blends Georgies uses, but I think you could look up some recipes for stains and experiment with them to find some unique results.
@@annruel1982 thank you so much
@@heididerksen8227 my pleasure!
I filled up a pickel jar with rusty nails and water, and shake it around a little for some iron oxide!
Oh Wow. Great idea. How does that fire on your clay? Im sure it cant be as pure as the processed Red Iron Oxide, right?
@@annruel1982 kinda gives an antique brown, but can see the white clay underneath with a couple of coats... Been trying to figure out a good brown.
@@GeraldBlack1 Thanks Gerald! now, that is an experiment unto itself, right there.
@@annruel1982 I put some corroded jumper cables in another jar for the copper oxide, haven't fired it yet!
@@GeraldBlack1 Haha. thats really using your noggin! If you think about it, let me know how that went! I am curious.
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I assume you did an electric firing? Instructions say anything about reduction?
Hey deep ashtray. I did see something about reduction in the pdf they provided with these. They said you can fire these from cone 05 all the way up to cone 10 and even in reduction. I have not tried it though.
@@annruel1982 Thank you. Got me curious now. Beautiful work by the way. You even make sweet test tiles.
@@deepashtray5605 Thanks so much. I had a paper embossing plate that made the impressions for those test tiles. They worked perfectly for this experiment.
These seem like a real…disappointing waste of money. They appear to just be the pigments we use for making glazes, some mixed together to give different colors, without necessarily the spinel processing or encapsulation (not to mention the very extensive line of stable colors) that actual stain producers make like Mason Stains or DeGussa, which have extremely extensive color palettes and the benefit of being pretty inert and less likely to leach. These appear to just be oxides mixed up in some water, for a lot more money than just buying the oxides themselves and using them…I could tell while watching which oxides were in most of them, would be extremely easy to just make yourself for less money. It would be one thing if they had a really extensive line of colors for much cheaper than buying the oxides alone and mixing them, but this feels like a really lazy product on the part of Georgies. I usually don’t try to be negative with my comments on here, but especially for just being used for texture inlay, when there are so many more things you can do with either pure metallic oxide pigments or actual fritted stains, seems like it is worth more bang for your buck to buy actual oxides and easily mix your own, even if you aren’t into making your own glazes (which I HIGHLY recommend, commercial glazes are for the most part a huge rip off) I would definitely suggest buying a palette of stains, I’m pretty happy with Mason stains in the US, and they sell to quite a bit of the world these days and most countries have at least one of the big stain lines produced around the world available, those can easily do this but also do so much more, like coloring slips and homemade underglazes (search for underglaze on Glazy and use Vince Pitelka’s recipe for making underglazes for 1/4 or less the price of buying them with a much bigger palette should you so choose and way more control) and coloring terra sigs, glazes, colored clay, majolica in-glaze stains just to begin with, there is even more you can do with stains, and if you buy small amounts of oxides to mix your own pigments they can be used as washes over glazes, to fume, stain or flash pots in pit/barrel/saggar firing, be mixed in to commercial glazes to alter them, and be used for pretty much everything a stain can be used for, just with a bit less stability and consistency compared to the pre-fired fritted stains like Mason, etc, which isn’t necessarily a bad thing! This is just so easy to do that these products really don’t need to exist. For those looking to have their washes or stains they make up 1:2 or 1:1 usually with frit or gerstley borate usually stay in suspension better and brush on better, mix in a small amount of gum, like CMC or gum arabic (pre-mixed in water usually about 30 grams to a liter of HOT water left mixed in over night and re-blended the next day, with a pinch of copper carbonate to stop it from rotting-works for stopping your natural bone ash from stinking in your glazes as well) and a little bit of glycerine and propylene glycol- these will help keep them in suspension and not needing to be mixed every two seconds and makes for a better brushing experience.
Hey Aubrey. If you are the type of person who already has the resources to make their own glazes I would say that you can experiment or follow recipes to make your own stains. You are right. Good on ya. the way I look at it is that these are for people who may not have the room or knowledge or resources to make their own stains or glazes. If you are one of those people, Georgies has developed a way to help those people out. Happy potting to you Aubrey!
@@annruel1982 I think the point I was trying to make is that for people who don’t make their own glazes, I still think these are less quality for the money than just going with Mason or whatever stains are available to them, or that they can buy small amounts of oxides and easily mix their own versions of these for quite a bit less money with very little glaze know-how, most places will sell most oxides or stains for 1/4 lb or less, which gives them the flexibility to do a lot more than these do, I just think even for people who do not make their own glazes they are a rip off…long before I was making my own glazes I had lots of stains. I’ve actually been looking in addition to the series of courses I am starting for some short ebooks I could write, and this has given me an idea to write a cheap guide to using oxides and stains without having to be making glazes and all the uses and best combinations, I really think these are overpriced limited combinations stains essentially but for the same or more cost than stains that have actually been formed into spinels and that you don’t need to know anything about glaze chemistry really to make your own slips, underglazes, colored terra sigs, colored clay, washes, majolica colors etc…you just need some very basic knowledge about the differences between metallic oxides and stains and the best ways to use them and some basic recipes and health and safety info. I get why you might feel this provides an option to people, but I feel it really sort of takes advantage of them by charging more for literally just combining a few oxides to make some colors and mixing them in a jar with instructions to add water and selling them for 3 or 4x what people could easily mix them up for themselves. You don’t have to be all in to glazes to do this, or to make your own colored slips (I mean very few places sell them so people instead of easily making their own slips have turned to using super overpriced underglazes, which they can easily make themselves too as well as slips without any knowledge of glaze chemistry). I also just want to take the fear away from ceramic chemistry as well, it is really easy and I want people to be less intimidated by it! I hate seeing a lot of suppliers taking advantage of people and making them really dependent on buying super overpriced commercial products so much, when it is really quite simple to do a lot of things yourselves even if you don’t want to go as far yet as making their own glazes, or maybe they are in a studio where glazes are provided and they have little choice in glazes while they are at a community studio, and not everyone can have a home or private studio to make glazes. But there are a ton of other ways they can use oxides and stains besides glazes and not pay a fortune! That’s what gets me, they charge 5x the price of what it costs me to make my underglazes or glazes, or even more, most people have become really dependent on pricey underglazes because they don’t know how easy it is to make their own slips and underglazes for a fraction of the cost. It is just like these places selling a pint of sodium silicate for 3x the cost you can get a gallon of it on Amazon or US Pigments, and the two suppliers in my state, which you think having two within 20 minutes of each other would mean competitive prices for us, but I quickly found out early on when I was buying glazes that the two stores price fixed it so we were paying literally at least 2x the amount for a pint of glaze or underglaze as what most other suppliers were selling for them when I looked online and I was outraged. I now make my own clays, almost all of them cost half or less what I would pay to buy pugged clay…not that I expect everyone to go for that, for me it is actually easier since I make paperclay and build quite a bit out of slip or cast my slabs instead of rolling them (really saves my hands and no expensive equipment!), so I just hate seeing suppliers taking advantage of so many people. I think I will get to work on an ebook of all the ways to use oxides and stains besides glazes so hopefully I can save more people money in the long run, and frankly there is something to be said for being a self sufficient ceramist, with supply shortages these days and glaze companies stopping online orders, which is pretty bad I imagine for the people out there who are not close to a supplier, or who have suppliers that way overcharge!
@@aubreytauer7308 Thanks Aubrey.