Good video. Haven't did bearings yet but had to change a chain. While attempting to adjust the tension, loosening the nuts they all ended up snapping off. I had to remove everything and knock all the studs out and replace with new. I was a little concerned about the sliding section where the oring is so I removed and cleaned up the oring and then wire wheeled both surfaces smooth and applied a little grease so when adjusting the oring wouldn't roll out or up on some chunk and cause a leak.
@@brownlordofthewoodshop8552 Not much. The rest of the hub studs are the same way. The next time I need to attempt it I will be heating the nuts up good first.
I was a little leery of tackling the wheel bearings and chain tension. It’s time consuming but not that hard. I took a link out of the drive chain too without moving the cab. Making a chain press by hand took a while.
How did you get the sprocket to stay still to slide the spindle in? I try to put stuff behind to keep it from moving but but every time I line the spindle the sprocket moves just a little
I usually do it by feel. Grease the bearing and tighten it up move it back and forth and snug it up tight. Then back it off usually1/4 to 1/2 rotation to line up pin. Sorry it hard to explain how it feels.
I will not use aftermarket parts on skidders anymore. I got tired of doing the same job twice. Especially with case. We used aftermarket pins last year and it cost us a lot of money to get the job done a second time.
This was lots of help, thanks !
Excelent video.!
Excellent video. Helps repairing my 1845C in Maine.
You are welcome
Good video. Haven't did bearings yet but had to change a chain. While attempting to adjust the tension, loosening the nuts they all ended up snapping off. I had to remove everything and knock all the studs out and replace with new.
I was a little concerned about the sliding section where the oring is so I removed and cleaned up the oring and then wire wheeled both surfaces smooth and applied a little grease so when adjusting the oring wouldn't roll out or up on some chunk and cause a leak.
Wow. Sounds like you didn’t have much fun.
@@brownlordofthewoodshop8552 Not much. The rest of the hub studs are the same way. The next time I need to attempt it I will be heating the nuts up good first.
I was a little leery of tackling the wheel bearings and chain tension. It’s time consuming but not that hard. I took a link out of the drive chain too without moving the cab. Making a chain press by hand took a while.
Do you have the replacement kit part#? Thank you
How did you get the sprocket to stay still to slide the spindle in? I try to put stuff behind to keep it from moving but but every time I line the spindle the sprocket moves just a little
I had someone hold it from the inside and just wiggled it in.
Brown, Lord of the woodshop™ I figured that’d help. I’m by myself
do you have to move the cab forward to access the chain cover inspection plates?
Everything bolted up nice. The only issue was the engine fan I had to move it back 1/4” with spacers to clear the rad.
Is there a preload for the bearings?
I usually do it by feel. Grease the bearing and tighten it up move it back and forth and snug it up tight. Then back it off usually1/4 to 1/2 rotation to line up pin. Sorry it hard to explain how it feels.
@@brownlordofthewoodshop8552 it's cool man. Thanks for the help
On peu avoir les dimensions des roulements et des joint svp
What size is the nut on backside of sprocket?
Morning
What sprocket?
Can non genuine bearings be used
Yes. Much cheaper
I will not use aftermarket parts on skidders anymore. I got tired of doing the same job twice. Especially with case. We used aftermarket pins last year and it cost us a lot of money to get the job done a second time.
Why bother cleaning the machine? Dirt is a mechanics best friend. Keeps them employed.
En John Ferre 320 e es igual