Stirling Engine Generator Mk4 (Rocket Stove!) Part 11
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 มิ.ย. 2024
- Building of an easy, cheap and reliable, DIY stirling engine full size model! It will be fired by wood and could be a great stirlingkit if it works!
This is a fun engineering project that I will use to power a generator to provide energy. It will use an efficient rocket stove that burns really hot using wood that will hopefully drive it at great speed! This technology can use any fuel type with the correct burner so is dual fuel as well. I would like to provide plans / stirling engine kit for DIY builds and possibly build machines too.
This is all pivots on being able to produce an easy, cheap and reliable stirling engine! Watch this space…..
• Stirling Engine Genera...
This video
I've made a few minor changes. I've added a counter weight to the crank, made spacer rings to go on diaphragm outer clamp areas, added chimney support, removed cooling fan and fitted Kevlar diaphragm to cold side.
We did another dynameter run and we now have a massive 87w! (At least we could light one 60w bulb now!). The power is a little closer to where it should be and almost as powerful as the previous mk3 engine. Not big power but I have to remind myself it accomplished this with a simple design, diaphragm seals and a handful of sticks.
The hot diaphragm seal has now lasted for 7 hours running, so it's looking good : ). Only time will tell if it lasts.
I've pretty much come to the end of development of this engine. Sure, I could substantially improve elements by cutting it to pieces and reconfiguring it but I'm pretty happy with this little engine as it is. I'll probably do a few follow up video's of endurance runs, etc, as I show it this summer.
My mind is already on potential designs for the mk5 version. I am looking to improve output by 50% / swept volume. Hopefully I'll learn some lessons this time and actually improve the power! I'll try to show you all a fairly detailed plan of what I'm trying to build so you can scrutinise my idea's before I commit to materials!
Many thanks to everyone who contributed and apologies to those who put forward perfectly valid ideas but I didn't have time to try. I now need to catch up on my DIY jobs to keep my family happy before embarking on the next project!
All the best
Thanks for watching
shanepomeroy@hotmail.co.uk
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Shane, I love watching your engine builds, with all of their iterations and refinements. At this point I consider you to be a pioneer of large-scale Stirling engines! You're not sitting behind a computer, watching simulations of how an engine might perform and stopping there; you're out there being creative, and testing real-world hardware to find which improvements to make next. I take my hat off to you, Sir!
It’s a beautiful engine. It’s so quiet and so efficient and, as you say, uses a ludicrously tiny amount of fuel. Such an accessible design.
Really nice Shane. Marks Mechanical Engineers Handbook says that, as an eatimate, a 30 year old man can average 1/10 horsepower over an 8 hour period....about 75 watts.
It would be interesting to set up a water pump or something as a load (with a variable vertical lift so you could finep tune the load) and measure weight of wood burned/consumed over time under steady state load.
Cheers to your Dad as well!
- Chuck in Florida.
To improve that firebox you probably just needed a grate to hold the embers up off the floor of the firebox, so all the air is forced to pass through them. To start it you would still need a fire beneath that grate.
You can insulated the fire box more to get the exhaust temperatures higher.
Keeping the cold end cold is as important as keeping the hot end hot.
You want to work to reduce the conduction of heat in the regenerator. You want it to store heat and not carry it away.
Insulating can help down near the hot end.
Crackin work fella, runs really nice and quiet.
Nearing 100 watts is still impressive for diy.
Would it be too much to replace a section of the cold side heat exchanger with aluminum, and or insulate the regenerator section between the hot and cold heat exchanger?
If you can handle more pressure inside, means the greater area inside the stirling pv cycle, and that translates to more work done.
You could also possibly raise your center pully and crank to be precisely alligned to the center of your piston. This way you reduce the arms lengths. And add another set of pipes so that there will be a set of heat exchanger pipes above and below your crank. Use a T piece to link piston to your pipes in this configuration.
Дорогой друг! Нужно применить манжеты из нержавейки, и расширить диффузоры☝🏻 Спасибо за Ваш труд!👍👍👍
Well done, Shane. I greatly enjoyed following along and look forward to the updates as well as the next build.
Very nice engine, well done.
Optimizing the regenerator portion between the hot and cold heat exchanger would increase the power output. The design on this engine has a lot of dead volume and not a lot of heat transfer area as far as regenerators are concerned. Andy Ross has a fairly simple to manufacture solution on his final design of sterling engine For his Sterling powered bicycle project.
Cheating with spring helped :)
Please try mild pressurization. Its really will go beyound magic 100 watts. Now all power goes to pumping loses
Spring was a genius idea!
I should try out mild pressurisation, I'm all setup with adapter fir compressor
Weigh the fuel, and as others have said, record ambient temperature, etc. you can then assess Watts in Watts out. The machine looks brilliant. Looking forward to MK2.
Your engines always make me smile, thanks for sharing this wonderfull videos
That is one SMOOTH running machine. Love it. Keep em coming
Redesigning the rocket stove could increase your hot end temperatures but then your seal will melt again. I would add a water heater to the exhaust and utilize the waste heat. This will legitimately increase power output.
Look at the way rocket mass heaters are designed the flue from the fire goes up and then the gasses are forced down before transiting the mass and then going to the chimney, of you could take the rocket part of the RMH and put the heat exchange in the top you might get more heat being transmitted into the the exchange as the hot gasses get to travel over the exchange at least twice (up then down over the exchange)
Putting mineral wool insulation around the first 10 inches of the heat. Exchanger on the hot side might also boost the power output some since you're heat Exchanger seems to be a little bit too long. You could adjust the amount of insulation and see how it affects the power output. That would give you a better idea for sizing it next time. Another idea would be to put regenerator material in the pipes before you squish them flat that should allow you to recycle more heat instead of rejecting it all at the cold end.
Hello Shane. I think that your stirling is not that disappointing. The best performing stirling generator I found on youtube was able to produce 150W of electricity. The stirling was quiet a smaller but it also had a lot larger furnace running on a lot more wood than yours. I think that your design is really nice. It just need a little redesign of sizes of the parts. (heater, heat exchanges, levers etc.) I wish you the best and I am looking forward to your future designs 💪
Awesome work brother! Thanks for taking us along.
Hello. Congratulations. You got a pretty good result. The membrane according to your idea seems to be durable. I think I'll take advantage of this solution and try it out. Regards
Hi Shane
Congratulations, very good work.
With my experience, I think of 2 modifications to try;
1) Your unidirectional valve increases the pressure in the engine but in a dissymmetric way. If you replace this valve with a very small air inlet to balance the average air pressure inside the engine with the atmospheric pressure you no longer have these disadvantages. On the contrary, you have two cycles of motor work per turn instead of one. A pression cycle and a suction cycle. The engine thus has a much smoother operation between a pressure of 0.7 to 1.3 bar for example (instead of 0 to 1.6 bar).
2) As already indicated, separate the cooling zone from the regenerative zone to increase yield. Simply isolate part of the chiller from the hot side. This has the consequence of having a regenerative effect by retaining heat in this area.
Hi, thank you for your advice. I will do some experiments with the snifter valve setup to see if removing it helps things. Regenerator isolation could be incorporated into the next engine. I just don't understand so much! Many thanks
Hi, thank you for your advice. I will do some experiments with the snifter valve setup to see if removing it helps things. Regenerator isolation could be incorporated into the next engine. I just don't understand so much! Many thanks
You need make a Stirling engine powered tractor next that runs on coal, and drive it around the block, and i think you should try to stick to pistons as they are far more better then bellows.
That is definitely a good idea of feed system that is powered off of the engine
Or better yet - whack a generator on it and propel it with ebike parts and one of those bluetti portable batteries that can charge from solar at 12 - 48 volts and step the voltage up to 220v for the socket.
@@TheO5Council Only hang up I see is that Stirling engines are not made for torque, they're made for efficiency.
I think a traction engine would need enough potential energy (in the flywheel) and sustained heat generation to move its own weight
@@toyotaprius79 agree
Subscribed, can't wait to see more!
There will be more once I've completed my wife's house projects : )
Love the progress, I just would want to get away from a single plane diaphragm.
you should make a SMALL gamma or alpha stirling engine, while following the advice that i have offered, below. as seen on some small stirling engines, a vertically oriented loop in the duct forms a simple and effective regenerator. convective heat trap. d
Hi Shane, a good effort, I like to see you are using a better type of flywheel. Congratulations on your persistence.
Shane you have created my new favourite channel. Please keep the videos coming
This one is nice and quiet. And smooth running.
a proper Batch rocket will output 2x the heat of your J-tube design and provide more than adequate radiant heat through the heat riser. a 6 inch batch box will have a heat output of 77000 btu/hr. and a burn time of 1 hour. so i guess for scaling: make 4 of theese fellas run on a single fire.
Look up sunorbits sunpulse Sterling engine
See what thay are using for gasket material on their diaphragm
This is my dream to do!
Getting closer every time you show us a video. Strategy work there Sir.
Great series of videos on the sterling engine build and a fantastic outcome, good luck at the shows and I am already looking forward to the next engine build.
Is there any way you can please make some schematics of this and put them up online so we can potentially approve upon this version of Sterling engine I wanted to implement some kind of water-based Pistons in order to exchange the pressure within the Sterling cycle
I really want a new series...Really!
I want to build a Stirling engine locomotive for my ride on railway around my house. I don't seem to have enough time at the moment. All the best
Hi Shane, why do you not try a alpha design with this kind of heat exchanger between the cylinders. According to my understanding you also didnt have a regenerator between the cyclinders in the MK4, that would be also a good upgrade. Another thing to get more power out is the pressure in the cyclinders. Each PSI increases the power output, as long as the heat transfer can catch up.
If possible reduce the weight of the piston plates or add a counterweight so that it does not need to hang on your diaphragm material as much as it is currently doing. Or let the pistons run on a linear bearing so that it cannot missalling and damage your diaphragm material.
Awesome! From Michigan. I guess you could add a flat surface to cook on too
Gosh, I don't know if the silicone laminated kevlar is what you switched to because of my suggestion, but i'm amazed to see how well it works under operating loads and temperatures!
Anyway, This project is so awesome and I can't wait to see how much mechanical power you can get out of a wood stove!
The kevlar / silicone does seem to be doing the trick, thankyou
Swap with flywheel for a 10kw axilflux alternator. Instead of wood use a 500 watt induction coil.
Can you test connecting different size electric generators to it? I'd love to see it produce electricity and how much it can make
Would you consider attaching a small motor as a generator to charge batteries? You could monitor the power output and control engine RPM with the load.
Really like your design, I'm no expert, but would a slow burner with a smokeless flue produce more radiant heat? Perhaps with a thermostat style airflow control to the firebox?
What about a big thermoacoustic engine next? See how it scales up.. 😅
Sounds doomed for failure!....... I'll do it! I'm unfamiliar with them but will take a look. I would only need one piston 🤔
@@ShanePomeroy honestly, I don't know how it would scale up. Although I've seen some larger than your typical glass tube engine. But a really big one? Don't know. That would be the experiment. 😅
I hope to see you running your stirling engine as a heat pump instead, and share with us the temperature difference you get.
I'll keep an eye out for a suitable drive motor : )
Hi Shane, are you able to add pressure to the internal gas? I’ve seen hydrogen used in the high end sterling engines. Maybe 2-3 bar of air would be interesting to try.
Can you make a free piston sterling engine next time?
Try helium inside the engine
More like liquid nitrogen through the cold intake
You miss the point helium under pressure has less resistance to flow back and forth between the pistons
could you have a 2 stage firebox? i get up to 400 'c on my boiler flue gases
It sounds grate
how much does the efficiency improve if it was really cold outside? Say 0 to -20C?
Hey Shane, what is the generator used in your stirling ?
Love the channel,bingeing it now but Jesus Christ turn down the sharpness on your camera
lol, Hi , glad your enjoying it! I don't really understand the do's and don't' s with videoing things : ). Could you explain the sharpness thing it simple terms for me, cheers
@@ShanePomeroy what camera do you use? Most of them have it under picture settings and it would be called something like sharpness . To be fair your edits are pretty good for someone that doesnt understand the videoing thing . I remember thinking that after I wrote the sharpness things. :)). So yeah keep up the great work love the channel
@@mirelchirila I actually just use my camera phone lol. I'll have a play with the sharpness setting, cheers
At that wattage, what is its efficiency?
Or if you're going to make another engine eventually I would be really interested on how you would go about making a liquid piston Sterling engine th-cam.com/video/AkNhNCh68Js/w-d-xo.htmlsi=lOl_Es88MS8xfRaR
because a diaphragm acts as a spring, ANY use of a diaphragm in a heat engine is less-than ideal. the use of a spring to 'compensate for' poor linkage design is sad. when making a prime mover, it should be understood that the nominal operating speed of the engine WILL be Determined by the way it is loaded; via the crankshaft. if part of the system (say, the dum spring) seems to smooth operation, that smoothness is (probably) coming at a cost. that spring is also flailing around, ABSORBING energy. d
Yes, the design is compromised and not ideal but I'm trying to keep construction extremely basic. Springs not great but I believe a much smaller flywheel can be used. Cheers
Shane do you have a face book page or email ??
Hi Perry, my email is at bottom of videos descriptions