HI tom great video honesty , I finish a cnc course but no body explain me it in that way , Congratulation, I'm looking for G73 cicle, If you got something about that I appreciate very much, Thanks again
Does this only work for straight grooves or can you program in chamfers? I work at a sprocket and gear shop and I want to start programming some of the grooved parts. All of the grooved parts go to the conversational right now.
Hello. its a really nice explained video. I use milimeters, I want to know what values should I use for P and Q? What if I just have one groove, how should I write the canned cycle?
thanks for everything you teach in the FANUC-O language. Dear sir i have couple of set up (check machine tool out) questions if its ok?? Question #1-what is acceptible when i put a tenths indicator in the chuck or collet and put the indicator up against the ATC at its outer most MACHINED FACE POINTS and with each index of the ATC what is a normal amount of perpindicular to the chuck facial run out from T1 to the next position and so on until i make it all the way around, should i see for example .003 max variation through the 90deg, 180deg and so on till the 360deg point or is .0002 more like normal? Question #2-putting my (brown and sharp-carbide tipped) .0001 indicator on a mag base and checking the TIR of the spindle nose AND face with NO CHUCK mounted,, what is normal run out,, my spindle nose is about 2in in dia. and sticks out about the same,, should i see dead nut "0" radially and dead nut "0" on the face or once again whats the to be expected amounts of run-out for the lathe to be considered good shape,abused,wore out or NEW? Of course all points on ATC and spindle nose have been cleaned and lightly scotch brighted with wd-40 and then each point to be checked has been wiped down with acetone on a rag and then lastly cleaned with my thumb like you would use your thumb to wipe off a micrometer anvil,,no dings or nicks anywhere,, all surfaces in what looks like new condition,, .002 is the best TIR i can get out of my 3-jaw chuck,,just got a collet holder so i havent checked it yet,, all opinions welcome. I spent many, many years CAD/CAMMING A FANUC-O MILL,, im used to being able to keep set-ups dead on,, after so many years doing mill only,, me and my lathe are having disagreements!!! In other words im learning and dont know what im doing! thanks for the videos,,very, very helpful!
ALUMATRIX Thanks for your feedback. I appreciate it a lot. The run-out on a spindle nose using a .0001 indicator theoretically should be "0" but that is a lot to ask from a used machine. .0002 TIR is very good. Your surface may be clean but a .0001 indicator is going to pick up flaws on the surface easily. My recommendation would be to use a ground pin that is chucked in your chuck or collet chuck and check for run-out that way. After all we need to know if the part is running true while turning. The jaws in the three jaw chuck will always need to be bored before running a job depending how critical the tolerance is. Tolerances and functionality of the part being machined are major considerations and will determine how much effort you put in the setup. Hope that helps. Thanks Tom
Tom Stikkelman thanks for replying,,, yes using a carbide pin for the spindle/chuck/collet TIR check makes more sense (been a lot of years since i touched an old daewoo i ran-feeling kinda stupid now-i knew this and forgot) how about my tool turret tramming question?? As you read on and i describe my ATC you will see why tramming it is so important in this case, right now im getting about .003 max variation through the 360deg indexing of the ATC turret face (max-outer dia. identical machined points used for tram check) as i check it after each index,,, is the .003 ok or should i attempt to tram the turret like i would a mill head to a mill table and shoot for "0" ?? My turret is a solid ground 8-station emco-maier plate,, NO tool adjusting WHAT SO EVER other than height,, there are holes in 4-of the ATC positions for spot, drill , tap ect.,,,4-spots for square tools,, actually breaking loose the turret mounting bolts and attempt to tram the entire ATC to the chuck is the only way to make sure a drill for example is dead-nut in line with the chuck-center,, nothing else to adjust,,,its obvious its never been moved since it was new,,lathe is a low-hr 2002 model,,,work envelope is 5in-dia x 12in length,, if im being too picky forgive me but i really wondered what you think what kind of numbers should i see using a (.0005) best-test indicator THIS time against the turret face as i check facial tram,,,, OR as it just hit me should i install a 4in spot drill into the ATC and then drag the indicator which i set at "0" at tool/ATC-face point and then pull the indicator along the z-axis and see what it says at the other end of tool out in the air,, i could mount a carbide pin in the ATC and do same thing,,, whats your thought,, run around it as if tramming like a mill head to table or actually just check the tool alignment with the (z)-axis and whats an ok number at say 4in from the ATC,,, i wont keep pestering you but the way you teach you are very easy to understand,,, i dont run production so making sure the ATC and the tailstock are positioned within acceptible tolerances for me once set up correctly should only have to be checked once in a while but i am one of those dead-nut"0" guys if i can obtain it ,, again if im applying too much picky to the lathe you can say so,,, i did a lot of 3D cavity work over the years and i naturally look to the 4th decimal place for all dims. I appreciate you taking my last question and look forward to your answer and to more videos,,, the stock set up and tool zeroing,, using the geometry pages and offset pages properly on a FANUC-O controlled lathe would be a great and helpful video,,,, do an outside tool and a spot drill,, reg-drill and boring bar for ID tools would be awesome and if you are feeling energetic tap a bored hole,, that would be about the best video that would help me along,,, again thank you for your time helping someone who remembers "optics" and a big-ol rotary table on our j-head bridgeport being the HIGH-END tools in the shop that NOT just anyone was allowed to touch that sat next to our belt driven southbend lathe,,back then when we needed a tool you didnt buy it you made it or ground it out of what ever you could find and worked slow,,my grandfather started me and he passed before DRO came out,,i often wonder what he would have thought about a DRO or a dig-mic using with 5-decimal points,,,,its simply amazing when i compare what we used when i was a young teen compared to now not to mention the tools that can be had with the click of a button,, i shall now leave you be !!! Thank you for one more question!
I wonder. This grooving has no options to cut a back chamfer. It's very easy to cut chamfers and making grooves like the V-belt type on Mazatoral. This Fanuc and G - Code program is not really user friendly. Mazak is still the best for me.
Hello Tom, If I want to cut a wider grooves and it requires multiple passes to finish them then move to the next groove with .200 step over. What is the P value?
6:06 this only doing first groove?well yes it is. becouse if you take of that Z you can make more grooves in one go. using P distance. you need tool to be correct size you can make magic with using W insted Z. W for how much wider you make.and W for how far next groove is. without unnessessary calculating lol
Best video explaining the G75 cycle I've seen. Congrats.
Thanks a lot Tom! You deserve double thumbs up! Would also explain about the face grooving.
mousongie mousongie Thanks Mousongie. I will put it on my To Do list. Tom
Which type of diamond bonded tool use for groves on hypalon material
I'm waiting for your reply sir pls revert asap
thank u so much sir ive learned so much of ur videos ...pls upload more videos...
Good I liked your program
HI tom great video honesty , I finish a cnc course but no body explain me it in that way , Congratulation, I'm looking for G73 cicle, If you got something about that I appreciate very much, Thanks again
Does this only work for straight grooves or can you program in chamfers? I work at a sprocket and gear shop and I want to start programming some of the grooved parts. All of the grooved parts go to the conversational right now.
Hi Tom, could you do a video on the fanuc G73 pattern repeat cycle. Thanks
Hello. its a really nice explained video. I use milimeters, I want to know what values should I use for P and Q? What if I just have one groove, how should I write the canned cycle?
Why would you need a canned cycle for one grove ?
What's the other option Sir?
Great and details. Thanks to solved my problem
Maestro de maestros! i also use G75. When I need to know, I know El Maestro has the amswer Can you change RPMs on a grooving/cut off cycle?
Hello there Mr. Tom
Can you apply that G75 cycle to groove the face of a part?
g74
what is the best feeds and speeds for a .125 id grooves machining on P110 material?
Very good.
Your video is vey useful
How would you add a dwell at the bottom of each groove?
What if the grooves have radius at the bottom?
thanks for everything you teach in the FANUC-O language. Dear sir i have couple of set up (check machine tool out) questions if its ok?? Question #1-what is acceptible when i put a tenths indicator in the chuck or collet and put the indicator up against the ATC at its outer most MACHINED FACE POINTS and with each index of the ATC what is a normal amount of perpindicular to the chuck facial run out from T1 to the next position and so on until i make it all the way around, should i see for example .003 max variation through the 90deg, 180deg and so on till the 360deg point or is .0002 more like normal? Question #2-putting my (brown and sharp-carbide tipped) .0001 indicator on a mag base and checking the TIR of the spindle nose AND face with NO CHUCK mounted,, what is normal run out,, my spindle nose is about 2in in dia. and sticks out about the same,, should i see dead nut "0" radially and dead nut "0" on the face or once again whats the to be expected amounts of run-out for the lathe to be considered good shape,abused,wore out or NEW? Of course all points on ATC and spindle nose have been cleaned and lightly scotch brighted with wd-40 and then each point to be checked has been wiped down with acetone on a rag and then lastly cleaned with my thumb like you would use your thumb to wipe off a micrometer anvil,,no dings or nicks anywhere,, all surfaces in what looks like new condition,, .002 is the best TIR i can get out of my 3-jaw chuck,,just got a collet holder so i havent checked it yet,, all opinions welcome. I spent many, many years CAD/CAMMING A FANUC-O MILL,, im used to being able to keep set-ups dead on,, after so many years doing mill only,, me and my lathe are having disagreements!!! In other words im learning and dont know what im doing! thanks for the videos,,very, very helpful!
ALUMATRIX Thanks for your feedback. I appreciate it a lot.
The run-out on a spindle nose using a .0001 indicator theoretically should be "0" but that is a lot to ask from a used machine. .0002 TIR is very good. Your surface may be clean but a .0001 indicator is going to pick up flaws on the surface easily. My recommendation would be to use a ground pin that is chucked in your chuck or collet chuck and check for run-out that way. After all we need to know if the part is running true while turning. The jaws in the three jaw chuck will always need to be bored before running a job depending how critical the tolerance is. Tolerances and functionality of the part being machined are major considerations and will determine how much effort you put in the setup. Hope that helps. Thanks Tom
Tom Stikkelman thanks for replying,,, yes using a carbide pin for the spindle/chuck/collet TIR check makes more sense (been a lot of years since i touched an old daewoo i ran-feeling kinda stupid now-i knew this and forgot) how about my tool turret tramming question?? As you read on and i describe my ATC you will see why tramming it is so important in this case, right now im getting about .003 max variation through the 360deg indexing of the ATC turret face (max-outer dia. identical machined points used for tram check) as i check it after each index,,, is the .003 ok or should i attempt to tram the turret like i would a mill head to a mill table and shoot for "0" ?? My turret is a solid ground 8-station emco-maier plate,, NO tool adjusting WHAT SO EVER other than height,, there are holes in 4-of the ATC positions for spot, drill , tap ect.,,,4-spots for square tools,, actually breaking loose the turret mounting bolts and attempt to tram the entire ATC to the chuck is the only way to make sure a drill for example is dead-nut in line with the chuck-center,, nothing else to adjust,,,its obvious its never been moved since it was new,,lathe is a low-hr 2002 model,,,work envelope is 5in-dia x 12in length,, if im being too picky forgive me but i really wondered what you think what kind of numbers should i see using a (.0005) best-test indicator THIS time against the turret face as i check facial tram,,,, OR as it just hit me should i install a 4in spot drill into the ATC and then drag the indicator which i set at "0" at tool/ATC-face point and then pull the indicator along the z-axis and see what it says at the other end of tool out in the air,, i could mount a carbide pin in the ATC and do same thing,,, whats your thought,, run around it as if tramming like a mill head to table or actually just check the tool alignment with the (z)-axis and whats an ok number at say 4in from the ATC,,, i wont keep pestering you but the way you teach you are very easy to understand,,, i dont run production so making sure the ATC and the tailstock are positioned within acceptible tolerances for me once set up correctly should only have to be checked once in a while but i am one of those dead-nut"0" guys if i can obtain it ,, again if im applying too much picky to the lathe you can say so,,, i did a lot of 3D cavity work over the years and i naturally look to the 4th decimal place for all dims. I appreciate you taking my last question and look forward to your answer and to more videos,,, the stock set up and tool zeroing,, using the geometry pages and offset pages properly on a FANUC-O controlled lathe would be a great and helpful video,,,, do an outside tool and a spot drill,, reg-drill and boring bar for ID tools would be awesome and if you are feeling energetic tap a bored hole,, that would be about the best video that would help me along,,, again thank you for your time helping someone who remembers "optics" and a big-ol rotary table on our j-head bridgeport being the HIGH-END tools in the shop that NOT just anyone was allowed to touch that sat next to our belt driven southbend lathe,,back then when we needed a tool you didnt buy it you made it or ground it out of what ever you could find and worked slow,,my grandfather started me and he passed before DRO came out,,i often wonder what he would have thought about a DRO or a dig-mic using with 5-decimal points,,,,its simply amazing when i compare what we used when i was a young teen compared to now not to mention the tools that can be had with the click of a button,, i shall now leave you be !!! Thank you for one more question!
Hi Tom
could i use this G75 to do parting off?
thank you very much for posting these videos. they're so easy to follow and understand.
thanks agian
Yes you can. It is an easy way to add pecking. Thanks for watching. TS.
Yes, just leave out the P and the Z in the second line
G75 R.2
G75 X-1.6 P500 F.05
Sorry I work in metric not imperial
Can you use on id grooving?
Very good Congratulations.
Thanks Renato
I tried to put the on CIMCO editor but it did not work if I put Q2000, but if I changed to Q.2 it does. Don't know why?
what about doing wide grooves and doing a finish pass on them
+Greg Hood
I will do a video on that soon! Thanks for subscribing Greg.
Well, that process is for a simple grooves. But if we want to make a shape using a groove tool (like a "V" Belt weel) what cycle must to use?
I wonder. This grooving has no options to cut a back chamfer. It's very easy to cut chamfers and making grooves like the V-belt type on Mazatoral. This Fanuc and G - Code program is not really user friendly. Mazak is still the best for me.
Thank you Tom. Do you know of any online lathe simulators to practice programming on. thanks
The one I use is called Gwizard by cnc cookbook. It simulates both lathe and mill code
Hello Tom, If I want to cut a wider grooves and it requires multiple passes to finish them then move to the next groove with .200 step over. What is the P value?
The p can only be used for roughing OR multiple grooves. You will need to repeat a new G75 groove cycle immediately after finishing the first groove
Thanks. Also, do you have the videos that show the G70 does the face and OD in one finish cycle? I am admired of your works.
How do you add the values in the program that use G75 with a radius on the bottom grooves?
Thanks Tom ! I have a question
How can i make a G-code for more than one grove that bigger than tool nose radius ?
I would possibly use a G75 and a G72 depending on the sutuation
thankyou master
thanks mr Tom i followed you but i dont make 4 grooves?
Did it run at all? Can you send me the code you used? Thanks
Please, try to do it with mastercam. Apprently, mastercam generate two G75 cycle
It all depends what post processor is chosen to output the code. Thanks for watching. Tom
Is it free or do I have to buy it?
can you explain trepanning?
face grooving
Thanx
6:06 this only doing first groove?well yes it is. becouse if you take of that Z you can make more grooves in one go. using P distance. you need tool to be correct size
you can make magic with using W insted Z. W for how much wider you make.and W for how far next groove is. without unnessessary calculating lol
Sir please make v type grooving programme
whats your simulations program?
I'm using Mastercam for this session. Thanks for watching.
Desnecessário!