Hi there Hal! I really like this comparison video and I can't choose which one I like better. I love the brightness of sound of the Desert Rose but also the mellow tones of the Tahoma...It's a toss up I think. I have a Tahoma, perhaps I need a DR as well...thanks for the video, you never disappoint!
Hi, Hal! Just got my Evo Bluestein Sparrow from d'Aigle. It's my first custom autoharp, after playing an OS. The action on the Sparrow seems uncomfortably high. Will I get used to it, or is there something I can do to reduce the distance I need to push the bars down?
That's very interesting feedback; and yes, you can "shim down" the bars. You'll notice that on the underside of the chord bar covers, there is a thin strip of felt that keeps the bars from going "bang bang" as they come back up. You can thicken that felt up in numerous ways (especially on the treble side of the instrument, where there is more space between the "up" bar and the strings. The wound strings are a little taller, so the space is a little less on the bass side. So you have to either add to that felt, with another layer of something, could be felt or foam...or REPLACE the felt with thicker felt or foam. Because all the bars are pushing up against that felt, you can experiment with the thickness of the new/additional material just by tucking it in...the bars will hold it in place because you are only depressing one at a time! Don't get it TOO close (the strings will start to choke if you do that). I've had harps where I never glued the felt in....just used the counterpressure of the multiple chord bars to hold a nice strip of it in place. Or you can glue it in! Thanks for your question.
@@wildautoharp Hal, thank you so much! I cut a couple of strips of silicon mesh and fit them right under the chord bar covers and I am very happy with the result!
Hi there Hal! I really like this comparison video and I can't choose which one I like better. I love the brightness of sound of the Desert Rose but also the mellow tones of the Tahoma...It's a toss up I think. I have a Tahoma, perhaps I need a DR as well...thanks for the video, you never disappoint!
G'day Hal. Thanks for sharing these. They are gorgeous instruments. I do need a louder autoharp as I always play alongside other instruments.
I haven't forgotten! The boss is away and I've been sitting in for him. I've been pretty distracted.
@@wildautoharp no worries, Hal. I'll be here any time when you need me. Cheers!
Hal, a little heads up: the Patreon link has a typo, so the link is broken. 🎶
Thanks
Hi, Hal! Just got my Evo Bluestein Sparrow from d'Aigle. It's my first custom autoharp, after playing an OS. The action on the Sparrow seems uncomfortably high. Will I get used to it, or is there something I can do to reduce the distance I need to push the bars down?
That's very interesting feedback; and yes, you can "shim down" the bars. You'll notice that on the underside of the chord bar covers, there is a thin strip of felt that keeps the bars from going "bang bang" as they come back up. You can thicken that felt up in numerous ways (especially on the treble side of the instrument, where there is more space between the "up" bar and the strings. The wound strings are a little taller, so the space is a little less on the bass side. So you have to either add to that felt, with another layer of something, could be felt or foam...or REPLACE the felt with thicker felt or foam. Because all the bars are pushing up against that felt, you can experiment with the thickness of the new/additional material just by tucking it in...the bars will hold it in place because you are only depressing one at a time! Don't get it TOO close (the strings will start to choke if you do that).
I've had harps where I never glued the felt in....just used the counterpressure of the multiple chord bars to hold a nice strip of it in place. Or you can glue it in! Thanks for your question.
@@wildautoharp Hal, thank you so much! I cut a couple of strips of silicon mesh and fit them right under the chord bar covers and I am very happy with the result!