Guys thanks for all the feedback and stoked you are learning a few things!! Here is what ill do, many of you posted comments asking about breakdowns of different scenarios, look thru the comments, like the one you want to here about, most liked comment on info question ill answer and breakdown in the next video!
I'd super love to see you post the board models, volumes, and dims, and your body weight in each vid. Would be nice to be able to calibrate how you're thinking about boards for each session.
As a beginner I used to watch so many how to duckdive videos which didn't help at all other than learning the movement. Now that I'm a confident duck diver I've learned most these things you talk about through trial and error and trust me when I say that this video is hands down the best duck diver theory video out there
You talk about everything in such a good way. You’re really good at making people envision the exact situation and explaining just what to do. That’s a talent. You’re a great surfer and a great teacher. Thank you!
Tips on catching waves and wave reading, left, right, close outs, when to start paddling, when you’re screwed. Moving from kite surfing to surfing, I find this to be the hardest part.
I'm enjoying the story telling vibe. Super engaging and just feels like you're having a casual chat - no ego no fluff just straight up genuine content.
The light switch kinda breaks up the blandness of the wall behind him! We know he has faced hell many times but has the confidence to use his skills to beat whatever the ocean throws at him! stay safe Mighty one of the sea!
You would be amazed at how many surfers young and old have never been educated on this vital aspect of surfing before. I truly think this video is going to have influence on energy expended in the water and overall awareness and safety for those who watch. The way you explain with science and firsthand experience is a huge blessing. This is essentially one of those masterclass lessons people pay for but for free...Who knew you were an amazing TEACHER as well as pro surfer / fitness guru / etc. Thanks for being such a great role model all around.
I was watching an interview with Slater years ago, and the best thing to do is not bail. Stick with it to the end, but if you do, it's natural to dive forward, I still do sometimes, but he claimed it's better to kick your board forward and fall back, which I have found is less abusive. It's counter intuitive.
I don't even surf anymore, but wish I had this advice when I was younger. You could be saving lives. It would be cool if duck dive technique was taught. I could never get deep without wave transition in front of me. Even though most of us have never surfed 10 foot plus, your experience on those waves is helpful from a knowledge standpoint. Much respect to you for this information.
Best duck diving advice yet! Top 5 tips - default to duck dive, the duck dive scoop, turning your board sideways to surface through boils, on beach breaks finding the pocket five feet before the lip, and opening your eyes on the first set wave to see between plumes and boils, where you can swim to the surface. Thank you for keeping the NS safe and fun!
Great points. I will duckdive all the time unless a real square board breaker or timing is off. One thing you didn’t mention is paddling back 10 to 15 feet to let initial impact explode and mellow. It has saved me many times. Nice work on blog.
Also, when bailing a big lip on the head, turn your board parallel to the lip-line, as the lip landing along the board is less likely to break the board. If board is perpendicular (at 90 degrees to the lipline) the wave will break across the middle of the board and is more likely to break the board.
We've only had waves big enough in New Smyrna Beach once where we had to bail to get out. Halloween of 91'. But I hope to one day have it again. Thank you for the info bro. You are a true Guru of big surf. Love to watch you charge. Keep them coming
I duck dive with a big red X on my back. At least that's what it feels like at times. The lip always finds me. My worst injuries were the results of my board getting away from me when getting caught inside. One thing you may have wanted to mention is if you are separated from your board while duck diving as you surface block your face with your arms either crossed or like a boxer. Boards become missiles when returning to you.
X marks the spot! A six+ footer broke in front of me at Marine Street La Jolla years ago. When i eventually shot to the surface, my board was above me and i hit it hard with the top of my head. Stars were seen. An impression of my cranium was made. As noted, come up with a hand first. I’m a diver and should have known better, but the holddown was a bit gnarly and i din’t think of it.
I'm old and don't surf anymore unfortunately..i watch your surfing life and it takes me back to my younger surfing days living on the Aussie Northern NSW Coast..you seem like a nice kid who has been brought up well with family values..my advice is life goes past very quickly so never take it for granted..and everyone bleeds the same colour blood..keep enjoying your very lucky life
The tip about big white water duck dives was money. It's also really nice to know that the whole issue of getting out is still a genuine 'problem' that requires understanding and technique even with pros. This is something that is never really addressed for intermediate/advanced surfing. Thanks
Two questions: 1. What is best technique for bailing in really big water? I see hawaii guys in videos often standing up beforehand are they trying to get board under or some height to dive down? 2. There is this video of your brother duck diving in a pool and staying down to "swim" or frog kick along the bottom th-cam.com/video/ss58f0kAsdc/w-d-xo.html. Is this functional and do you/he ever use it in the water? Really appreciated this video and the Chopes one. A lot of us don't get opportunities to practice in big water and things like this are valuable for those times when surprise swell comes in. And any time you want to break down techniques you have learned in Aircamp PLEASE DO.
What a great lesson for guys in big waves, I'm not even believing that there were 78 guys that didn't appreciate this graduate level lesson in big waves. You ought to consider becoming a Navy pilot. You've got more guts than a lot of guys I flew with. I've always thought flying and surfing go together, especially now with foils. Great lesson Nathan, Awesome!
I've never seen this guy before but he seems super nice and intuitive. Great casual personable way of explaining things--yet also very articulate and thorough.
Good advice. I'm 60 and still learning. Only thing I would add is, if you have too bail on smaller waves for the reasons you're stated, turn your board parallel to the wave. Reduces the risk of snapping it.
thanks for this info Nate! Ive been surfing since 2007(Atlantic) and naturally have always used my foot to duck-dive with, the board goes deeper & you have more control underwater!
I love this content Nathan, you explain it really well and turned me onto some new tricks to try. Here’s another topic I would love to hear your thoughts about...Close out barrels, when and how to bail so you don’t get sucked over the falls with your board alongside. Jumping forward vs cutting out the back. What to do when you are committed and know you’re screwed. Thanks man, keep charging you’re killing it!
Would love to know the pros and cons to diving off your board to get under a big wave. Like when to climb on top and dive off into the water. How big do the waves need to be, and does it really help you get under the wave even deeper? Thanks for the rad tips Nate - looking forward to trying out the double-dive and side-slice techniques! 🤙
Duck dove an 8' hollow bomb at Jocko's, on a 8' Sunset board, bear hugging it. Went straight over backward in the lip and drove straight down, soo deep. My ears felt like they were being stabbed with a knife from the pressure, but my arms were locked around my board. Came to the surface fast after a few seconds though.
Love all the shred, POV videos, and funny stuff. Hope to see more of the master class stories and info too. Huge help to lower my kook to get real and usable tips I can use at my local. I dug this and your talk about wiping out at chopes. Keep killing it! 🤙🏽
Highly descriptive and informative discussion of the details of duck diving in powerful surf. I have tried to describe these techniques to friends in the past and had difficulty. Excellent job and keep up the good work.
Thank you. I normally don't learn anything new with these youtube videos, but I'm going to try that advice of turning your board on rail when you're getting driven down deep with your board. I hold my board on triple overhead days, even if the lip is coming down in front of me, for the reasons you said, but I've ducked, given my board the bear hug with all my might and had the wave rip it out of my arms like a purse snatcher. LOL Also, one thing I've had happen to me a couple of times is, I duck under the lip just before it lands, but don't quite make it. The lip hits the tail of the board and that causes it to fulcrum up into your face. Got a couple of fat lips that way. Usually when you're on a bigger board.
Excellent, I think it's safe to say we'd all be very thankful for more vlogs like this one. I would love to hear your take, tips and tricks on how to perform a grab-rail backside drop on a hollow wave, like Pipe. Again, excellent.
+1 my grom just had his first real rides this past month. We loved watching the florence's grow up surfing. More grom surfing tips for sure! th-cam.com/video/FtzgFokYWrI/w-d-xo.html
Solid tips! ALWAYS GOTTA CONSIDER OTHERS AROUND YOU and that's just general surf etiquette. Legend Mike Stewart had some really interesting insight back in the day regarding the actual wave and how to perceive it that I always thought was super helpful. I've tried to find the more in depth take on it that I read years ago, but all I could find was a quick recap and an image Stewart drew some notes on. I've pasted a link at the bottom of this comment with the Stewart illustration. I'm a pretty shit surfer, but I'll try my best to give a succinct explanation of Stewart's advice and hopefully it'll be helpful to some of you like it was for me. Essentially, from the moment the wave breaks the wave goes through cycles of 'high' and 'low' pressure. It sort of bounces and the way in which it bounces depends on a number of different factors (wave type, size, swell period, bathymetry, shape/type of ocean floor, etc). Learning how to identify these things in a dynamic and constantly changing situation may take a lifetime, but if you pay attention you can sort of start to figure it out, even from day one. Many surfers learn to do it without ever realizing the mechanics behind what it is they're doing, but if you've ever seen a surfer sometimes 'stalling' or waiting (paddling parallel to the beach, paddling toward the beach, or just sitting still) until the perfect point to duck dive then you're already familiar with it. Rushing toward a wave to duck dive can help you or it can harm you. This is because of 'high' and 'low' pressure points. As soon as the lip punches the surface, there is 'high' pressure and you're most likely gonna get rocked. Just after that point, the wave bounces upward, creating a pocket of 'low' pressure. Duck diving at this point will almost guarantee you getting under it safely. As that energy reaches apex, again it begins to fall creating another point of 'high pressure' and you'll probably get rocked, though not as much as the initial impact/point of 'high' pressure. This bouncing and cycling of 'high' and 'low' pressures will continue on so-on and so-forth until the wave make's it's way all the way to the beach, with the points of 'high' and 'low' pressure decreasing exponentially. The bigger the wave, the more water, and the longer the swell period are the general parameters governing the length of the cycle of bouncing 'high' and 'low' pressures. Obviously water is extremely dynamic and no two situations are exactly the same, but as a general rule of thumb this has not only helped my (and many friends) duck diving, but also helped keep my head straight in some pretty hectic situations. Focusing your mind on how the wave is behaving and not just saying 'oh shit' and waiting to get rocked keeps your mental state stronger and calm. Cheers everyone! www.surfertoday.com/bodyboarding/the-barrel-of-a-wave-according-to-mike-stewart
That was super interesting to hear the things you think of when in big surf Nathan! Maybe "What is it like taking off on big, steep Pipe?" Kinda cliche but " Worst wipe outs and how you deal with them" Any of your thoughts are a cool insight man, you Charge!
Thanks. Your expertise definitely helps. I always try to hold on to my board. I’ve ditched my board a few times ( no one behind me) and it’s always worse. Broke my board a few times that way.
Walk us through the mental thought process of when you've tried to pull the big gun through the face...but you realize it won't...and you begin the descent into despair....
my favorite part is those deep sighs after you have given a complete thought, example, and then keep searching your memory --- thank you for sharing so much knowledge!!
Bro! great video. Very informative. Gives insight into techniques that 90% of us would only use on the biggest days at our home breaks or on surf trips. Great stuff for the toolbox!
I agree with the last guy. You have the wisdom and while you really will not see us in the lineup at pipe, we still appreciate the info. When our local spot goes loco! We need some advice to man up and deal with the conditions. Great channel.
Thanks for the tips because you're definitely helping us become better Surfers. The sideways thing that really helps out a lot. I like to turn my board sideways when I'm duck diving so you soft tops and they're really buoyant and helps break through the wave. I'll be sure when I'm using a shortboard one day when I finally learn how to surf one hold on to it so they bring it back up to the surface which is a really great idea thanks for sharing that. Have you surfing from Virginia Beach!
You are really good at breaking down and explaining things Nathan, that is a rare skill. You should definitely do a trick and tips series of videos. Good job.
only been surfing for a short time. i am 55 yrs old. I had no idea there was that many situation.. my board is a 9ft. thank you. Very good teacher. You have a future in it after surfing. Thanks again.
That was heaps helpful man, cheers. The side on thing and the timing between explosion is such a good explanation. Didn't realise that's what was going on when I flooked it but now I know. Hopefull going to get some decent waves tomorrow, cheers from Aus!
I try to also always be aware of what the other people I’m surfing with techniques are going to be. If one person is always bailing, stay as far away from him as possible.
And take into account the occasional leash snap. Leashes snap when the surf is big, leash size is too small for the surf size, gets cut on a fin, or just because the leash is old. So don't always assume the leash will hold. That goes for you (as the surfer too). I had my leash snap when I had to do a deep dive under a huge wave and the wave ripped the board from my grip. I was on the way outside (basically the second outside break (4th surf line up) that only breaks when there's a storm swell). I had a very long swim in and thank God another surfer grabbed my board on the main outside break (just past the end of the pier). It would have been really hard to make it all the way in had that other surfer not hold my board. When the surf is real big, you can't see anything. The swells block out your view.
11:52 was too real, happened to me in Bali and got dragged on the reef. I thought i was in the clear but did a lazy duckdive and paid the price. Awesome video!
Good video - Couple of things I've learned the hard way - when paddling out I try to make sure there is no one directly in front or behind me - when I wipe out or bail and I'm under the water I wait one second and then I reach for my leash at my ankle and slide my hand up the leash to the velcro strap and then put my other hand up to the back of the board so I don't get a face full of board anymore when I come up.
This video and your recent gopro video of big pipe are two perfect examples of unique content you provide. So few of us would ever have your perspective of big pipe - it was exhilarating and scary to watch. Your earnestness is much appreciated. Keep up the great work! Mahalo!
cool of you to do these kind of vids...we all appreciate the tips and the sharing of your experience. i wish your tech guy could have inserted more clips, especially of the 'second explosion' situation, since as you say, it happens a lot. i assume he's busy and tired from all the winter filming and editing...but it would have made your vid better. also, i can think of two situations that you didn't mention....fist, not all surfers are as strong as you and your friends or train like you do...i can remember waves in hawaii that tear the board from my arms and leave the tendons damaged for days afterwards from attempting to duck dive 10-15 feet of white water. i agree with you, that duck diving is what ever real surfer attempts when possible, but the physical side of it creates a varying scale of what is possible for a given surfer. i am now 53, and i still duck dive every wave that i think i can make without injury, but i realize how much more cautious i have to be about putting myself, or others, in the situation of having to bail, since i know i am no longer powerful enough, like you, to push through 15 feet of white water, unless it's mush. and second...many years ago on maui, ilima kalama told me when surfing ho'okipa, that if you see many waves stacked up and you are about to get pounded by the first wave, DON'T try to penetrate and swim out through it because you will only be in the pit of the next 4 or 5 or 6 waves, and you will be held there. instead, turn toward shore and go under with the intention of going WITH the wave so that you sort of fly like an arrow in best case scenario, or tumble and flip, but you are moving with the wave and by the time the second wave hits you, you have moved inside the impact zone and can take the second wave further in, or decide to stall there until the set has passed. this advise served me very well in many years surfing ho'okipa, because on big days there is not time to get through the sets, but they keep you in the pit and cycle you there...very dangerous. closest i ever came to drowning. by turning on the first one toward shore, the pounding results in a safer positioning. this is not possible everywhere, but i remember how much it helped me there.
Nate, awesome video!! Tell us some back stage histories, something like when you started surfing pipe, first huge swell, rhings like that! Aloha from Brazil
I once went backwards over the falls at "Sunset" on only 4 foot (Hawaiian measure, talking about the break called "Sunset"). Had paddled up and over, thought I was good ...sat down on board (used Townie 4 footers)...and then the HORRIFYING EVENT started to unfold. I started flowing backwards and then over the falls. Ended up with 20 stitches inside my mouth (upper gum line)....totally LITERALLY ATE MY BOARD. It had my bite mark in it.....LOL (today I can laugh about). More absurd, I had to get my stitches at the place I worked (Straub) and had called in "hurt, can't come to work" earlier in the day (so I could go surf.....LOL). Just sub'd, great content....hats off to you
Good tips on going sideways rail to surface for easy pop ups! Always remember to angle your duck dive or go parallel to the white water/lip line in heavy surf! Will save you many-2x boards and get you many more waves! @6:19 I normally use my shins rather than my knees for casual duck dives... Apples and oranges! 💯
Thanks for a super informative lesson nate! Showed it to my grom kiddos...we love your vids easily a 500 dollar lesson for free super appreciative bro! Love watching you charge! Stay safe!
Awesome tips Nathan, really helpful. It´b great if you give tips on what to do in a barrel wipe out, how to place your body in those situations, dodge your board, frontside and backside barrels.
Nathan, amazing stuff, the mystery of getting out with the giant surf has always been a wonder. The paddle out was cool to see also. Keep it up, sick material
Can you give more description or a video on how to "bear hug duck dive" your board? How do you do it safely without worrying about the the board ripping out and the fins cutting you. When you are duck diving normally, your hands are on the rails and outside of the path of fins, and even when it got rips out, your hands would clear the fins.
I'm NOT Nate - what I do is wrap my front arm (left arm as natural/regular) under my board and then kinda up over the deck and grip the nose with the front hand (kinda snake it around the board) and then back arm (right) under board to grab rail on opposite side - I get tight and low and hang on for the ride :-)
When I was learning to surf, I didn’t have anyone to really teach me. Just kind of went out. Went to duck dive a 7’6 fun board and it didn’t work out well. 😂 Strait kooking it.
Your honesty and thinking on the spot, as your filming.... is really considering all the variables. You seem honest and real man. Thanks.You are good at teaching.Explaining well so others can visualise is a skill.Your sharing could save many lives..........a little knowledge goes a long way in big juice.
Turning your board sideways to help it navigate its way up is such great advice. I don't know if I would have ever thought of that but I can assure you I'm going to try that going forward. Thank you Nathan!
late comment, but i've seen video of John duck diving in a pool and i was blown away at how deep he could get his board under water! He was doing that scoop method. All i learned is you guys are doing even more crazy stuff out there that i never knew about! Sea Anchor at Jaws! Ahhhhhhhhh!!!!! crazy! : ) : ) : )
This is super helpful Nathan! Thank you. I've broken a board needlessly, I bailed a 6'10" in 4-5 ft. beach break. I try not to bail anymore. It just feels so sketch holding my board when I get worked. But I always feel so much better when I come up holding my board.
Shasta Dragon yes, the risk to board is too high in smaller beach breaks duckdiving saves you money pretty much 😂 although make sure to keep face from smashing board
About 30 years ago, I was coming up after being held down for a little bit in some 8 - 10 foot waves, and a half second after coming up and shaking the water out of my eyes, it felt like I got hit by a car on the right side of my right arm, chest, and face. Turned out someone had either bailed or lost his grip on an old 1960s balsa longboard about 10 feet long. Didn't break any bones or my board, and thankfully it didn't knock me out, but that was it for me that day. All this to say that if you're ever surfing around someone with one of those boards, keep your eyes open. The things are heavy, and they pack a punch.
I just throw my bodyboard over the wave, swim under the wave, grab the board and keep paddling out. works a treat. Doesn't look pro or "proper" but it is def easiest way to get out I have found.
Really interesting. Thanks. I think Mr. Florence is playing in way way larger surf than most mere mortals. He backs up what I've said for a long long time...the experts duck dive most of the time. The sideways tip is really appreciated, as was the other stuff.
That was pure education. I dont surf anything quite like that, not even close. I'm probably a bit old for that kind of ride anyway. Great video keep them coming.
this was awesome, it kind of reminded me coaching kids wakeboarding and how to learn to fall and how to fall etc to avoid injury. Probably my favorite channel on youtube
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 76 | คู่เอก "ผึ้งหลวง vs สมิงดำ"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/9SBshmGQOIM/mqdefault.jpg)
Guys thanks for all the feedback and stoked you are learning a few things!! Here is what ill do, many of you posted comments asking about breakdowns of different scenarios, look thru the comments, like the one you want to here about, most liked comment on info question ill answer and breakdown in the next video!
Really like these informative videos, super helpful. I really think you should do more of them. Thanks, Nathan! 🤙💙
Your videos are unbelievable helpful and I saw thousands of them! You bring so many details!!
I'd super love to see you post the board models, volumes, and dims, and your body weight in each vid. Would be nice to be able to calibrate how you're thinking about boards for each session.
Always learning something new ;)
Dude this is awesome brother thank you so much
Please do a tips and techniques series, seriously helpful!
Yes yes I agree 1 trillion %
Absolutely
We are so lucky he does this for free. Even if he does get paid in views, we're getting free in depth surf lessons from a world class professional.
would be sick!
universalperspective common sense really
Never make the mistake of doing a pushup challenge before charging big pipe.
pickle fork N wiggles hahaha never!
Nathan Florence Listen to Pickles, he’s onto something here
Lmao!!
Bro do a maneuver series! Would be sick to hear your technique! Us mere mortals need all the help we can get.
Trueeee
As a beginner I used to watch so many how to duckdive videos which didn't help at all other than learning the movement. Now that I'm a confident duck diver I've learned most these things you talk about through trial and error and trust me when I say that this video is hands down the best duck diver theory video out there
You talk about everything in such a good way. You’re really good at making people envision the exact situation and explaining just what to do. That’s a talent. You’re a great surfer and a great teacher. Thank you!
Agree 💯
aimee and nathan sitting in a tree k.i.s.s.i.n.g first comes love then comes marriage then the baby and baby carriage
Tips on catching waves and wave reading, left, right, close outs, when to start paddling, when you’re screwed. Moving from kite surfing to surfing, I find this to be the hardest part.
enzo3440 thats rad man
I'm enjoying the story telling vibe. Super engaging and just feels like you're having a casual chat - no ego no fluff just straight up genuine content.
So true!.
Somebody send Nate some art for his walls.
I'll get right on that soon. I do Big panoramas. Stay tuned. Hit me up bro.
The only wall he's interested in is the one where the window let's him view the swell! Maybe!
The light switch kinda breaks up the blandness of the wall behind him! We know he has faced hell many times but has the confidence to use his skills to beat whatever the ocean throws at him! stay safe Mighty one of the sea!
lol good one
Your literally one of the best surfers, I don't understand why you haven't got millions of subs!
@John Dunbar is he actually? i couldn't tell, i just watch his surfing 😂
@@hitcho5812 he has a gf
#1 surfer this year
Is up to us to spread his nice videos!
John Dunbar and you’re commenting on his channel 🤣🤣🤣 stop stalking ya creep haha
major respect for not cutting the video, straight off top. F
Truth
You would be amazed at how many surfers young and old have never been educated on this vital aspect of surfing before. I truly think this video is going to have influence on energy expended in the water and overall awareness and safety for those who watch. The way you explain with science and firsthand experience is a huge blessing. This is essentially one of those masterclass lessons people pay for but for free...Who knew you were an amazing TEACHER as well as pro surfer / fitness guru / etc. Thanks for being such a great role model all around.
Hi Nathan. I would love a run down on how to bail whilst in the barrel ... forehand, backhand, large vs. small waves etc.
PS, thanks and love the vids
This would be insanely helpful
Just a heads up, he just made the vid🙏
I was watching an interview with Slater years ago, and the best thing to do is not bail. Stick with it to the end, but if you do, it's natural to dive forward, I still do sometimes, but he claimed it's better to kick your board forward and fall back, which I have found is less abusive. It's counter intuitive.
We can feel how genuine you are when you try to help out others, love the attitude love the video thank you.
I don't even surf anymore, but wish I had this advice when I was younger. You could be saving lives. It would be cool if duck dive technique was taught. I could never get deep without wave transition in front of me.
Even though most of us have never surfed 10 foot plus, your experience on those waves is helpful from a knowledge standpoint. Much respect to you for this information.
what a nightmare to go backwards over the falls at Chopes. I'm getting huge chills when you're explaining it. I would die in 2 seconds for sure.
U can’t hold your breathe for more than 2 seconds?!
@hazza I don't think erikka would die in 2 secs from not having big lungs, more like die of a heart attack
@@eddyjones9395 exactly
Best duck diving advice yet! Top 5 tips - default to duck dive, the duck dive scoop, turning your board sideways to surface through boils, on beach breaks finding the pocket five feet before the lip, and opening your eyes on the first set wave to see between plumes and boils, where you can swim to the surface. Thank you for keeping the NS safe and fun!
Nate, you might also include turtle rolling, and "longboard duck diving" (where you tilt the board sideways to push it deeper).
This also applies to dealing with women.
xyzct hahahaha if she is apexing on you bail bail bail
definitely bail if it's lip to head
I take my redpills before I duck dive any female and wave. Coach Greg Adams, a must see channel.
@@c.1211, Coach is AWESOME! And that brother has been getting better and better with every video. Every guy should watch him.
@@xyzct oh yeah, I agree. 👍😃
Great points. I will duckdive all the time unless a real square board breaker or timing is off. One thing you didn’t mention is paddling back 10 to 15 feet to let initial impact explode and mellow. It has saved me many times. Nice work on blog.
My favorite surfing explanation series on TH-cam by far
Also, when bailing a big lip on the head, turn your board parallel to the lip-line, as the lip landing along the board is less likely to break the board. If board is perpendicular (at 90 degrees to the lipline) the wave will break across the middle of the board and is more likely to break the board.
I learned this the hard way about 2 weeks ago
Good call ! Will remember that tip.
I laughed so much when he put everyone’s faces on the ducks hahaha this was some quality content for sure thanks Nathan!
In What minute?
Ashley Trondson haha thanks man
What are you on about ?
7:34
The true purpose of having TH-cam here! People would pay for the knowledge and experience you just share. Very encouraging and helpful!!
"When a wave breaks here, dont be there"! 🤣
Classic north shore movie line! Love it
I've lived by the learnings of that cinematic marvel since I was a grom.🤙
great logic, except i always seem to be 'there' on bigger days
When someone is pointing a gun, don't stand in front of it.
@@DolfVaderNZ I remember seeing that in the theater and absolutely loved it as a grom skater/surfer/bodyboarder.
We've only had waves big enough in New Smyrna Beach once where we had to bail to get out. Halloween of 91'. But I hope to one day have it again. Thank you for the info bro. You are a true Guru of big surf. Love to watch you charge. Keep them coming
Thanks for the breakdown! I don't think one of us will EVER need the teahupoo duck dive but great for novelty purposes
I duck dive with a big red X on my back. At least that's what it feels like at times. The lip always finds me. My worst injuries were the results of my board getting away from me when getting caught inside. One thing you may have wanted to mention is if you are separated from your board while duck diving as you surface block your face with your arms either crossed or like a boxer. Boards become missiles when returning to you.
Yes that has happened to me and it is not a nciebfeeling
Oh yeah I just cover my face and relax when I get swallowed.
X marks the spot!
A six+ footer broke in front of me at Marine Street La Jolla years ago. When i eventually shot to the surface, my board was above me and i hit it hard with the top of my head. Stars were seen. An impression of my cranium was made.
As noted, come up with a hand first. I’m a diver and should have known better, but the holddown was a bit gnarly and i din’t think of it.
I'm old and don't surf anymore unfortunately..i watch your surfing life and it takes me back to my younger surfing days living on the Aussie Northern NSW Coast..you seem like a nice kid who has been brought up well with family values..my advice is life goes past very quickly so never take it for granted..and everyone bleeds the same colour blood..keep enjoying your very lucky life
The tip about big white water duck dives was money. It's also really nice to know that the whole issue of getting out is still a genuine 'problem' that requires understanding and technique even with pros. This is something that is never really addressed for intermediate/advanced surfing. Thanks
Two questions:
1. What is best technique for bailing in really big water? I see hawaii guys in videos often standing up beforehand are they trying to get board under or some height to dive down?
2. There is this video of your brother duck diving in a pool and staying down to "swim" or frog kick along the bottom th-cam.com/video/ss58f0kAsdc/w-d-xo.html. Is this functional and do you/he ever use it in the water?
Really appreciated this video and the Chopes one. A lot of us don't get opportunities to practice in big water and things like this are valuable for those times when surprise swell comes in. And any time you want to break down techniques you have learned in Aircamp PLEASE DO.
johns technique only works if your board has no fins on it, so sadly not applicable in normal surfing. notice in the video how his board has no fins
@@albertozellner4368 He did have fins on, he even mentions hitting them on the bottom of te pool.
Here: th-cam.com/video/G9syJ1t-L_U/w-d-xo.html
What a great lesson for guys in big waves, I'm not even believing that there were 78 guys that didn't appreciate this graduate level lesson in big waves. You ought to consider becoming a Navy pilot. You've got more guts than a lot of guys I flew with. I've always thought flying and surfing go together, especially now with foils. Great lesson Nathan, Awesome!
I've never seen this guy before but he seems super nice and intuitive. Great casual personable way of explaining things--yet also very articulate and thorough.
He’s a good man. . and thorough.
Good advice. I'm 60 and still learning. Only thing I would add is, if you have too bail on smaller waves for the reasons you're stated, turn your board parallel to the wave. Reduces the risk of snapping it.
thanks for this info Nate! Ive been surfing since 2007(Atlantic) and naturally have always used my foot to duck-dive with, the board goes deeper & you have more control underwater!
How you stay relaxed on long hold downs is somthing that would help a lot. Thanks for the tips👍🏽
Just remember it's not gonna be as long as you think.. don't fight it.. chill out.. panicking makes you lose your breath..
I love this content Nathan, you explain it really well and turned me onto some new tricks to try. Here’s another topic I would love to hear your thoughts about...Close out barrels, when and how to bail so you don’t get sucked over the falls with your board alongside. Jumping forward vs cutting out the back. What to do when you are committed and know you’re screwed. Thanks man, keep charging you’re killing it!
keep doing this type of videos, love em
going to send this video to the SUP guy who bailed on his 10ft Naish in front of me this weekend.
Carlos Feyder ,10ft board + 9ft leash = 19ft death zone.
Would love to know the pros and cons to diving off your board to get under a big wave. Like when to climb on top and dive off into the water. How big do the waves need to be, and does it really help you get under the wave even deeper? Thanks for the rad tips Nate - looking forward to trying out the double-dive and side-slice techniques! 🤙
just got to Brazil and I'm a bit of a kook, this is couldn't have come at a better time! thanks Nathan.
Duck dove an 8' hollow bomb at Jocko's, on a 8' Sunset board, bear hugging it. Went straight over backward in the lip and drove straight down, soo deep. My ears felt like they were being stabbed with a knife from the pressure, but my arms were locked around my board. Came to the surface fast after a few seconds though.
'Even if you are a professional duck diver....' Hahaha, classic!
Love all the shred, POV videos, and funny stuff. Hope to see more of the master class stories and info too. Huge help to lower my kook to get real and usable tips I can use at my local. I dug this and your talk about wiping out at chopes. Keep killing it! 🤙🏽
that must be like the most useful surf video i ever seen in my 20 years of surfing. Thanks Flo!.
agreed!
Highly descriptive and informative discussion of the details of duck diving in powerful surf. I have tried to describe these techniques to friends in the past and had difficulty. Excellent job and keep up the good work.
it is NEVER ok to bail in front of someone. dont be that guy take the pounding, no matter how brutal it is. we have all been there I'm sure.
Thank you. I normally don't learn anything new with these youtube videos, but I'm going to try that advice of turning your board on rail when you're getting driven down deep with your board. I hold my board on triple overhead days, even if the lip is coming down in front of me, for the reasons you said, but I've ducked, given my board the bear hug with all my might and had the wave rip it out of my arms like a purse snatcher. LOL Also, one thing I've had happen to me a couple of times is, I duck under the lip just before it lands, but don't quite make it. The lip hits the tail of the board and that causes it to fulcrum up into your face. Got a couple of fat lips that way. Usually when you're on a bigger board.
Excellent, I think it's safe to say we'd all be very thankful for more vlogs like this one. I would love to hear your take, tips and tricks on how to perform a grab-rail backside drop on a hollow wave, like Pipe. Again, excellent.
my son just started surfing this aussie summer... A short series for groms would be really cool...get em stoked!
+1 my grom just had his first real rides this past month. We loved watching the florence's grow up surfing. More grom surfing tips for sure! th-cam.com/video/FtzgFokYWrI/w-d-xo.html
Solid tips! ALWAYS GOTTA CONSIDER OTHERS AROUND YOU and that's just general surf etiquette. Legend Mike Stewart had some really interesting insight back in the day regarding the actual wave and how to perceive it that I always thought was super helpful. I've tried to find the more in depth take on it that I read years ago, but all I could find was a quick recap and an image Stewart drew some notes on. I've pasted a link at the bottom of this comment with the Stewart illustration. I'm a pretty shit surfer, but I'll try my best to give a succinct explanation of Stewart's advice and hopefully it'll be helpful to some of you like it was for me.
Essentially, from the moment the wave breaks the wave goes through cycles of 'high' and 'low' pressure. It sort of bounces and the way in which it bounces depends on a number of different factors (wave type, size, swell period, bathymetry, shape/type of ocean floor, etc). Learning how to identify these things in a dynamic and constantly changing situation may take a lifetime, but if you pay attention you can sort of start to figure it out, even from day one.
Many surfers learn to do it without ever realizing the mechanics behind what it is they're doing, but if you've ever seen a surfer sometimes 'stalling' or waiting (paddling parallel to the beach, paddling toward the beach, or just sitting still) until the perfect point to duck dive then you're already familiar with it. Rushing toward a wave to duck dive can help you or it can harm you. This is because of 'high' and 'low' pressure points. As soon as the lip punches the surface, there is 'high' pressure and you're most likely gonna get rocked. Just after that point, the wave bounces upward, creating a pocket of 'low' pressure. Duck diving at this point will almost guarantee you getting under it safely. As that energy reaches apex, again it begins to fall creating another point of 'high pressure' and you'll probably get rocked, though not as much as the initial impact/point of 'high' pressure. This bouncing and cycling of 'high' and 'low' pressures will continue on so-on and so-forth until the wave make's it's way all the way to the beach, with the points of 'high' and 'low' pressure decreasing exponentially. The bigger the wave, the more water, and the longer the swell period are the general parameters governing the length of the cycle of bouncing 'high' and 'low' pressures.
Obviously water is extremely dynamic and no two situations are exactly the same, but as a general rule of thumb this has not only helped my (and many friends) duck diving, but also helped keep my head straight in some pretty hectic situations. Focusing your mind on how the wave is behaving and not just saying 'oh shit' and waiting to get rocked keeps your mental state stronger and calm. Cheers everyone!
www.surfertoday.com/bodyboarding/the-barrel-of-a-wave-according-to-mike-stewart
That was super interesting to hear the things you think of when in big surf Nathan!
Maybe "What is it like taking off on big, steep Pipe?"
Kinda cliche but " Worst wipe outs and how you deal with them"
Any of your thoughts are a cool insight man, you Charge!
Nice positive contribution to the surf world, thanks for the video Nathan and thumbs up!
Having those scenarios playing in my mind, and I already feel the chill through my bones.
Thanks. Your expertise definitely helps. I always try to hold on to my board. I’ve ditched my board a few times ( no one behind me) and it’s always worse. Broke my board a few times that way.
Walk us through the mental thought process of when you've tried to pull the big gun through the face...but you realize it won't...and you begin the descent into despair....
my favorite part is those deep sighs after you have given a complete thought, example, and then keep searching your memory --- thank you for sharing so much knowledge!!
Bro! great video. Very informative. Gives insight into techniques that 90% of us would only use on the biggest days at our home breaks or on surf trips. Great stuff for the toolbox!
Wow never thought to turn the board in the side. Thanks for the tip
When bailing your board ALWAYS look behind you so you dont hit anyone...
yeah, also what i have to do is skim the board on the surface sideways away so the person has a chance
Someone did this to me yesterday got absolutely nailed in the shins and their fin went right through my foot!
@@Jxglifts OUCH!
I agree with the last guy. You have the wisdom and while you really will not see us in the lineup at pipe, we still appreciate the info. When our local spot goes loco! We need some advice to man up and deal with the conditions. Great channel.
Nate! you make the best videos keep them coming!! Fun to see the behind the scenes on those big waves and all
Thanks for the tips because you're definitely helping us become better Surfers. The sideways thing that really helps out a lot. I like to turn my board sideways when I'm duck diving so you soft tops and they're really buoyant and helps break through the wave. I'll be sure when I'm using a shortboard one day when I finally learn how to surf one hold on to it so they bring it back up to the surface which is a really great idea thanks for sharing that. Have you surfing from Virginia Beach!
You are really good at breaking down and explaining things Nathan, that is a rare skill. You should definitely do a trick and tips series of videos. Good job.
only been surfing for a short time. i am 55 yrs old. I had no idea there was that many situation.. my board is a 9ft. thank you. Very good teacher. You have a future in it after surfing. Thanks again.
That was heaps helpful man, cheers. The side on thing and the timing between explosion is such a good explanation. Didn't realise that's what was going on when I flooked it but now I know. Hopefull going to get some decent waves tomorrow, cheers from Aus!
I try to also always be aware of what the other people I’m surfing with techniques are going to be. If one person is always bailing, stay as far away from him as possible.
leash length + board length + % of bails = blast radius distance to paddle around. my personal on the fly formula シ
And take into account the occasional leash snap. Leashes snap when the surf is big, leash size is too small for the surf size, gets cut on a fin, or just because the leash is old. So don't always assume the leash will hold. That goes for you (as the surfer too). I had my leash snap when I had to do a deep dive under a huge wave and the wave ripped the board from my grip. I was on the way outside (basically the second outside break (4th surf line up) that only breaks when there's a storm swell). I had a very long swim in and thank God another surfer grabbed my board on the main outside break (just past the end of the pier). It would have been really hard to make it all the way in had that other surfer not hold my board. When the surf is real big, you can't see anything. The swells block out your view.
11:52 was too real, happened to me in Bali and got dragged on the reef. I thought i was in the clear but did a lazy duckdive and paid the price.
Awesome video!
Good video - Couple of things I've learned the hard way - when paddling out I try to make sure there is no one directly in front or behind me - when I wipe out or bail and I'm under the water I wait one second and then I reach for my leash at my ankle and slide my hand up the leash to the velcro strap and then put my other hand up to the back of the board so I don't get a face full of board anymore when I come up.
Congrats on the 40k!! Subscribers, wish you all the best legend!!, thank you Zord for all the hard work you’ve done.
This video and your recent gopro video of big pipe are two perfect examples of unique content you provide. So few of us would ever have your perspective of big pipe - it was exhilarating and scary to watch. Your earnestness is much appreciated. Keep up the great work! Mahalo!
cool of you to do these kind of vids...we all appreciate the tips and the sharing of your experience.
i wish your tech guy could have inserted more clips, especially of the 'second explosion' situation, since as you say, it happens a lot. i assume he's busy and tired from all the winter filming and editing...but it would have made your vid better.
also, i can think of two situations that you didn't mention....fist, not all surfers are as strong as you and your friends or train like you do...i can remember waves in hawaii that tear the board from my arms and leave the tendons damaged for days afterwards from attempting to duck dive 10-15 feet of white water. i agree with you, that duck diving is what ever real surfer attempts when possible, but the physical side of it creates a varying scale of what is possible for a given surfer. i am now 53, and i still duck dive every wave that i think i can make without injury, but i realize how much more cautious i have to be about putting myself, or others, in the situation of having to bail, since i know i am no longer powerful enough, like you, to push through 15 feet of white water, unless it's mush.
and second...many years ago on maui, ilima kalama told me when surfing ho'okipa, that if you see many waves stacked up and you are about to get pounded by the first wave, DON'T try to penetrate and swim out through it because you will only be in the pit of the next 4 or 5 or 6 waves, and you will be held there. instead, turn toward shore and go under with the intention of going WITH the wave so that you sort of fly like an arrow in best case scenario, or tumble and flip, but you are moving with the wave and by the time the second wave hits you, you have moved inside the impact zone and can take the second wave further in, or decide to stall there until the set has passed.
this advise served me very well in many years surfing ho'okipa, because on big days there is not time to get through the sets, but they keep you in the pit and cycle you there...very dangerous. closest i ever came to drowning. by turning on the first one toward shore, the pounding results in a safer positioning. this is not possible everywhere, but i remember how much it helped me there.
Nate, awesome video!! Tell us some back stage histories, something like when you started surfing pipe, first huge swell, rhings like that! Aloha from Brazil
I once went backwards over the falls at "Sunset" on only 4 foot (Hawaiian measure, talking about the break called "Sunset"). Had paddled up and over, thought I was good ...sat down on board (used Townie 4 footers)...and then the HORRIFYING EVENT started to unfold. I started flowing backwards and then over the falls. Ended up with 20 stitches inside my mouth (upper gum line)....totally LITERALLY ATE MY BOARD. It had my bite mark in it.....LOL (today I can laugh about). More absurd, I had to get my stitches at the place I worked (Straub) and had called in "hurt, can't come to work" earlier in the day (so I could go surf.....LOL). Just sub'd, great content....hats off to you
Thank you for doing these types of vids!!! Such a huge help.
Good tips on going sideways rail to surface for easy pop ups! Always remember to angle your duck dive or go parallel to the white water/lip line in heavy surf! Will save you many-2x boards and get you many more waves! @6:19 I normally use my shins rather than my knees for casual duck dives... Apples and oranges! 💯
Thanks for a super informative lesson nate! Showed it to my grom kiddos...we love your vids easily a 500 dollar lesson for free super appreciative bro! Love watching you charge! Stay safe!
Thanks Nate. Very useful for everyone who listens I'm sure.
True ambassador of surfing. This is awesome video.
Awesome tips Nathan, really helpful. It´b great if you give tips on what to do in a barrel wipe out, how to place your body in those situations, dodge your board, frontside and backside barrels.
Nathan, amazing stuff, the mystery of getting out with the giant surf has always been a wonder. The paddle out was cool to see also. Keep it up, sick material
Can you give more description or a video on how to "bear hug duck dive" your board? How do you do it safely without worrying about the the board ripping out and the fins cutting you. When you are duck diving normally, your hands are on the rails and outside of the path of fins, and even when it got rips out, your hands would clear the fins.
I'm NOT Nate - what I do is wrap my front arm (left arm as natural/regular) under my board and then kinda up over the deck and grip the nose with the front hand (kinda snake it around the board) and then back arm (right) under board to grab rail on opposite side - I get tight and low and hang on for the ride :-)
@@loco4olas I think I can more or less visualize it. Can you show a picture?
Really appreciate these informative videos, really helpful. Thanks Nathan! 🤙💙
When I was learning to surf, I didn’t have anyone to really teach me. Just kind of went out. Went to duck dive a 7’6 fun board and it didn’t work out well. 😂 Strait kooking it.
glad you went for it!
Your honesty and thinking on the spot, as your filming.... is really considering all the variables. You seem honest and real man. Thanks.You are good at teaching.Explaining well so others can visualise is a skill.Your sharing could save many lives..........a little knowledge goes a long way in big juice.
I don't even surf but i'm digging your vids. Your stoke is so balanced with your humility.
Nathan, thank you soooo much for your insight!! I feel like I can’t get enough. Please continue to educate on this!!
Compulsory viewing even for experienced surfers! I wish I had TH-cam and Nathan Florence's channel when i was a 12 yo grommie!
Turning your board sideways to help it navigate its way up is such great advice. I don't know if I would have ever thought of that but I can assure you I'm going to try that going forward. Thank you Nathan!
Thank you . Went over the falls first time last week , Was gnarley. Several times.
late comment, but i've seen video of John duck diving in a pool and i was blown away
at how deep he could get his board under water! He was doing that scoop method.
All i learned is you guys are doing even more crazy stuff out there that i never knew about!
Sea Anchor at Jaws! Ahhhhhhhhh!!!!! crazy! : ) : ) : )
This is super helpful Nathan! Thank you. I've broken a board needlessly, I bailed a 6'10" in 4-5 ft. beach break. I try not to bail anymore. It just feels so sketch holding my board when I get worked. But I always feel so much better when I come up holding my board.
Shasta Dragon yes, the risk to board is too high in smaller beach breaks duckdiving saves you money pretty much 😂 although make sure to keep face from smashing board
About 30 years ago, I was coming up after being held down for a little bit in some 8 - 10 foot waves, and a half second after coming up and shaking the water out of my eyes, it felt like I got hit by a car on the right side of my right arm, chest, and face. Turned out someone had either bailed or lost his grip on an old 1960s balsa longboard about 10 feet long. Didn't break any bones or my board, and thankfully it didn't knock me out, but that was it for me that day. All this to say that if you're ever surfing around someone with one of those boards, keep your eyes open. The things are heavy, and they pack a punch.
Ok, those scenarios just scared the crap outta me on my couch🤣
I just throw my bodyboard over the wave, swim under the wave, grab the board and keep paddling out. works a treat. Doesn't look pro or "proper" but it is def easiest way to get out I have found.
Really interesting. Thanks. I think Mr. Florence is playing in way way larger surf than most mere mortals. He backs up what I've said for a long long time...the experts duck dive most of the time. The sideways tip is really appreciated, as was the other stuff.
That was pure education. I dont surf anything quite like that, not even close. I'm probably a bit old for that kind of ride anyway. Great video keep them coming.
Much respect for sharing knowledge that most keep to themselves.
this was awesome, it kind of reminded me coaching kids wakeboarding and how to learn to fall and how to fall etc to avoid injury. Probably my favorite channel on youtube
@2:42 that’s amazing I never thought about that trick. Mind blowing!