Machining the Steel Blade of the Carbide Camp Knife - Pt. 3
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ต.ค. 2024
- Our blanks are in place, the Nomad is ready, so let’s make some knives. In this episode I'll go through the toolpathing and machining for the steel knife blanks we have loaded into our Nomad CNC, as well as some snags I ran into and tips to overcome them.
Lakeshore Carbide Corner-Radiused Tooling Used: www.lakeshoreca...
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Learn more about our lines of Desktop CNC machines at carbide3d.com
Nice work! Very interesting to see such a tiny machine cutting tool steel! Also very cool that you're using my sanding block! :)
A few bits of feedback: I think you will see a *large* difference in your cut quality if you use stub length tooling, and also try trimming the shank of the tool so you can have the smallest possible stick out. Even in my large VMCs a tool that size sticking out so much would cause chatter. Maritool has some inexpensive stub length tooling that should help. When I am looking my blade bevels with a 1/4" diameter tool I only have about 0.4" of stick out.
Secondly I would advise trying to go with a larger corner radius on all tools. At least 0.030" or so at the smallest. This will make the tool corners much more resilient to the less than ideal cutting conditions, and should get you longer tool life. It should also help you get nice finishes!
Again, great work!
Thats good advice from someone who went from filing blades to full CNC! I actually started because of your filing jig video :) and now I work with DMG Mori Duo Block's and CTX machines daily! You were a massive motivator for me years ago! Hope you are doing well!
@@saschamarr495 Very cool! I wish I had those kind of machines in my shop! Thanks for the comment, really glad I was able to be helpful! 💚
@@GoughCustom
@@saschamarr495 Shipping to Austria should not be a problem at all :)
I bought a nomad over two other CNCs.. due to your videos :)
For the life of me, I do not understand why these videos have such a low Thumbs up count. Great content even if its a few years old.
Winston, use short length tooling if you can. I know this is through Carbide3D and all now, but they should sell stubby length endmills for this reason. It'll eliminate a TON of the chatter.
I was torn between the stub 3/32" and 3/32" with corner radius which only comes in a standard flute length. This is all Lakeshore Carbide stuff, since C3D doesn't sell AlTiN.
They do sell shorter flute lengths. I recommend some kind of cutting oil on finish and also a lower rpm for finish like 2500 to 1200 rpm with a feed rate of 20 to 40. Takes longer but worth it. Try western tool, they should have a 1/32 ball endmill coated carbide with .250 flute length.
Nice presentation it is nice to be here we do need to return back for the prior Pt. 1 and Pt. 2 We are new but feel to be right at home here, thank you.
Lance & Patrick.
Thanks for a very interesting video.
This is too much stickout. Deflection increases as the 3rd power of stickout, i.e. half stickout is 8x more rigid.
inspirating winston
5:41 i think this is really a job for a 4th axis, the job would be way easier
(you could then use the side of the cutter)
Hello Sir... What is the feed rate. Depth of cut, rpm and stepover in this project?? Please reply
Fantastic Job Buddy
Try dropping the rpm some to keep your chip load to reduce vibration and mitigate chatter
A shorter endmill would probably change your chatter significantly
You got corner chatter because you matched the radii in the part with the radii in the tool. This caused the bit to load up on half is diameter when cutting. Never match the radii of the part to the tool end mill radii. You need to add a few thousands to the part radii over the end mill radii to stop chatter and reduce the tool load.
if he used a tool thats 30% as stuck out as that tool he would be fine. That endmill is sticking out way too much
can i cut and engrave stainless steel with the nomad to make rings, and name pendants for necklaces
The recommendation would be nothing over 1/8” endmills
DC53 steel ? have you ever cut that steel ?
No, we have not. Just O1 and 303 SS.
The Nomad 883 has been discontinued but would the Nomad 3 be suitable for this project?
The Nomad 3 is the continuation of the Nomad 883. Nomad 3 has even more capability than the original and would definitely accomplish this type of build.
Wow, it can mill 316L Stainless Steel?
И сколько дней тратится на один нож?))))
"Or THIS will happen" funny.
hopefully you do a giveaway at the end of the series and I can win one!
I'd say the chatter problem is more like your machine is not stiff enough and the tool you're using has a lot of nose showing, which is a lot of wet noodle to dangle out there.
You want less chatter, more skookum machine with less bit hanging out of the chuck.
You're not doing a lot of depth cut anyway, why hang out such a large bit.
i cannot wait for you to get either a rigid router, or convert a grizzly milling machine.. Your skills on the cam /gcode end are really good but the machine is killing you.. There are a few fixed gantry routers from now in the 3000 range that have mini mill like rigidity and are turn key
Which one would you recomend?
@@Zlatkodemon ssome of the new 6090 machines are actually flat linear rail and have a huge work envelope.
www.aliexpress.com/item/4000781302756.html?spm=a2g0o.placeorder.0.0.c48c321epcG3Hc&mp=1
for 2400 shipped , i doubt much compares to this