7:00 Someone has probably already mentioned this (I haven't read all the comments) but the FIRST thing you should do is turn your gas control to "Pilot" or "off" BEFORE draining the tank.
I don’t know if anybody’s mentioned it to you yet or not, but the Bradford white water heaters do have anode rods. With the gas models, they are under the hot water nipple. What was left of the rod is the skinny stick you picked up from the bottom after opening the tank
@@valazuniga I was going to mention that too, anybody else thinking of mentioning that? Please chime in here, It's real important that we hear from everybody and show everybody that if the original poster had not beat us, we would of said the same thing.
I opened one that had been on well water for 15 years. It was 60+% full of solid white lime. Could not believe how much and just how THICK it was. Crazy things we neglect. One neat thing was the chunks that had apparently grown on the electric heating element. As the heat cycles, they expand and contract and all off, accumulating down at the bottom. It must have had 15" deep of white rocks on the bottom. Blekt!
I bet mine looks like that inside. Well water. High lime. My WH is a BW and i just discovered it is 40 years old. When heating, you can hear cracking noise inside.
Excellent - I’m one of those guys that do all handyman things around the house and I even replaced my current water heater. I’ve been hearing for over40years to annually drain the tank to remove sediment…..and I’ve never done it. My current tank is now 10 years old and on my radar for replacement. This video is timely and reminding me that I need to elevate this project. Because of your video, I may cut mine open to see what is inside
Lol, our water heater is from 1990 and still works great. My parents have replaced theirs 3 times since their house was built in 2002. If you have a older one, might be better to just keep it working until it leaks. (unless you have it in a place where it would cause a lot of damage, ours is in the basement right next to a drain)
I cut one up and made a little heating wood stove out of it. If anyone thinks about playing around with these, take respiratory precautions because the inside is lined with glass, I verified it when I tried to weld to it and couldn't get a good ground haha, once I got a good ground I was able to just blow through the glass layer.
I'm a homeowner with a 12 year, at the end of it's service life, Bradford-White water heater. I called them up with the model number and serial number, figuring if they could sell me the same model, it would speed up installation. They told me they don't sell to homeowners and were of no help at all in trying to locate a replacement. They didn't care at all, in my opinion, when I told them I was a homeowner. I looked about on the internet and found Bradford-White sometimes sells rebraded GE, so if you need a Bradford-White, maybe go that route.
Note that , depending on your local jurisdiction, it may be illegal to work on natural gas pipes **without proper licensing or certification**. It may also void your house insurance, or put you in violation of your gas supplier's contract. Be sure to know what your local laws are, and what your insurance contract specifies.
Hey Brad, long-time subscriber and fan of your work. Thanks for putting this up there. The "mistakes were made" shirt I guess was appropriate for this project, although to be fair I think even with all the maintenance all you can do is slightly prolong the inevitable. BTW there is actually a good chance that you do (did) have an anode rod that doubles as the cold side dip tube. My Bradford White has that configuration and I did buy a replacement. Trouble is, my WH is in the basement with a relatively low ceiling so it's a major PITA to change this out. Anyway, that "what is this" moment when you tore into the WH makes me bet that is the remains of your former anode rod.
the barnacle is the anode rod it causes an electrical reaction that is supposed to neutralize the electrical reaction that causes the rust . if you replace the rod it is possible to extend the life of the tank but i am not sure if you can get replacement rods.
The #1 thing every homeowner can do to save themselves money, both on damages from a leak and in replacement cost, is to inspect the sacrificial anode annually. Do not go more than three years without having the anode inspected. As Brad mentions, the anode is sacrificial, meaning that it's designed to corrode before the tank. Replace the anode when it's 50% consumed. The #2 thing every homeowner can do to extend the life of their water heater is to flush it annually. Importantly, this doesn't mean simply draining the tank. Water must be forced into the tank at the drain level in order to dislodge sediment. A pressure washer wand attached to a standard garden hose works well for this task. #3, operation of the TPR valve should be tested annually. Additionally, rather than opening upper level hot water faucets, simply openly the TPR breaks any vacuum that occur when draining the tank. #4, checking both the pressure regulator and accumulator tank pressure should be a part of an annual water heater inspection. Lastly, use a combination of compressed air and a shop vac, clear any debris accumulated around the combustion chamber; most often from insects, spiders and the like. Do these things and your water heater will easily exceed the typical 8 to 12 year life span.
Sometimes its the tubes inside that corrode/break off, I'm pretty sure that happened to mine, the cold water never gets pumped ot the bottom and it short circuits cold water at the top.
Before you drained the tank, I hope you turned the propane off... you can burn up the element if there's no water.... (for the maintenance) although, in your case it doesn't matter since it's failing already.
On another page, someone was making comments about using pipe dope and tape, which seemed preferred. The TH-camr said "pipe dope is a lubricant....the tape is the sealant" not sure, just something I viewed.
If you load the pressure tank to 50 psi it will not fill at all when you turn on the 50 psi water. This makes it almost useless. You should probably load it to about half before mounting it. Good luck everyone.
This same thing happened to me a couple weeks ago, except it was inside the house. Luckily my room is right next to it, so I heard it in enough time for it not to cause too much damage. Just some wet carpets and a few wood boards for the floor that need to be replaced
Bought a new construction home 11 years ago. The water heater is electric and I replaced the heating elements in it just over a year ago. Great video here, my takeaway is I need to start paying more attention to it and now. 😊
I find this fascinating as here in Australia, many of these, especially on houses of that age would have simply never been installed and an instant gas would have been put in which is pretty much default these days. No tanks to mess with, less room etc? is there any reason these are not used commonly in the US?
The reason is existing infrastructure inside of the home. Most electric tankless heaters are 220v and our regular circuits are 120v, and gas tankless heaters still require electricity, so usually it requires running a new circuit no matter what, and that usually means hiring an electrician. Gas tank water heaters do not require electricity, even to start (they have a push spark system that ignites the pilot light), so there usually isn't a circuit right where the water heater is. On top of that, with a new tankless heater, you have to move both gas and water plumbing around, mount it somewhere, etc. A DIY replacement of a gas water heater will only run you about $700-800 or so, including fittings. It's a simple drop-in replacement that requires three connections only (gas, cold water, and hot water), so usually it's a no-brainer to just swap a new one in. Going tankless requires a lot more expertise and most people would probably have to hire someone, which would probably quadruple the cost.
BW water heaters have their anode rod connected to the hot water connection. They can be replaced, but that obviously wasn't done here. The anode was probably completely gone; that 'barnacle' was likely what was left of it. That's why the tank corroded.
Thank you for this timely video! After watching it, I went to the attic to check out our water heater. It turns out it's 13 years old and definitely showing signs of aging and mini leaks. We're considering replacing it with a tankless water heater. Was there a reason you chose not to go that route?
interesting about the expansion tank. I have been in many many homes and light commercial buildings and never once have I ever seen an expansion tank on a hot water heater. Even the ones recently replaced by licensed plumbers do not have them. I just went through the process of selling 2 buildings and inspectors that went through building during the sale before final sign off didn't even question it. They were more worried about the tp valve tube not being long enough but never mentioned the lack of expansion tank. The tp valve has also never went off ever. Why does nobody seem to put these on or are there some circumstances where they are needed and others where they are not?
OK, so the tank is in a utility area with a concrete floor. No real harm done. If the tank is inside it should really be sitting in a pan with a drain to cope with leaks like this. Sooner or later all tanks, even unpressurised ones, will leak. Most people never experience a ruptured tank, just a leak. My copper tank lasted 48 years (installed by previous owner!), my current steel (vitreous lined) is now 15 years old and going strong. Yes, I'm one of these weird people that actually check the sacrificial anode.
So, if you have a pressure regulator before the heater, is measuring the water pressure at a hose bib an accurate measurement of water pressure into the heater?
Happened to me yesterday. Guys were working on the gas line to the dryer, and when they went to re-light the pilot on the water heater, the damned thing fell apart. $3k BAM.
That "Crazy Barnacle" was the remains of an anode rod. As far as sediment goes, it is a much lesser problem with modern city filtration systems but it should still be done semi-annually. Every 2 to 3 years if you are in a city with decent water filtration systems. *BUT* remember to turn the cold water supply back on when you get down to about 1/3rd to a 1/4 tank. The incoming water will help stir the tank and prevent too much sediment from settling in the tank and not flushing with everything else.
Oh?.. huh... most people.. have a tub/tray under the heater with a tube/pipe/hose to a drain or whatnot... so go buy one bro😜 , was that long skinny thing you called a barnacle was that the anode?
Hi there! I'm a long time employee of Bradford White. Judging by the model and year of production, there's a good chance I handled a part of that heaters production. It was cool to see the inside of one that's been in the field that long. Anyways, love the content and keep up the great work!
I'm glad he got this install in as practice, you know, for when he replaces that POS Rheem with another BW in 6 months to a year. Thanks for making an awesome product, glad you folks still take pride in your work. Bradford White is the gold standard.
@@some0ne8 Here in Australia, Rheem is the goto HWS of choice, normal to get 20yrs plus life out of them and a lot are still going 30+ yrs. Our plumbing is a lot less convoluted to yours, cold inblet bottom, hot outlet top. Tthe PRV also acts as the primary expansion relief valve so you know its always working properly
@some0ne8 I appreciate you saying that about our products! I watch this channel because I enjoy the DIY world, unfortunately BW heaters can't be accessed by mos DIY people.
@@teefill I was waiting for him to say that the black spot on the top turned out to be the anode after all but when he pulled the lid i didnt see a hole....
The size of the anode is the size of the warranty that came with the hot water heater. Replace the anode regularly will replace your warranty as the tank will not rust out.
Adding a powered anode rod when you install your new water heater is a very good investment. The one I have is called "Corro Protec". The reason your tank rusts and leaks is that the anode rod was never replaced. Also, dielectric nipples need to be installed. You can get over 30 years of use out of a water heater with minimal care.
As a maintenance man I’ve installed hundreds of these. Ive also seen hundreds working fine and sitting at over 20 years of age. Most People don’t go with the ten year average. They work em til they start leaking. A lot of issues start with how bad the water minerals are. Water is corrosive and a terrible match for raw metal. The two nEver get along. Expansion valves are more for water knocking in pipes from the water being turned on and off then heat Expansion. It does work for expansion but really no one has these valves unless they’ve had water Knock in pipes is present. Normally water tanks have issues not because of sediment. But due to poor quality of water from plant. And age. If anode rod is doing it’s job it keeps the tank clean. Anode Rods can last a good ten years. Not just 3 or 4 as you suggest. Depends on the water. It’s the corrosiveness of the water that damages water heaters. That and failed temperature and pressure relief Valves. As well as the fill tube being eaten away due to them being plastic. When that breaks down the cold water is no longer sent to the bottom of tank which allows already heated water to evacuate first. And once you lose your anode rod your tank is left unprotected. Great video and you’ve done your home work. People need to learn these things so they can understand how they work. The Chances of one of these actually blowing up is about .0001 percent. It’s why they have built in safety features. Pipe dope is great and what should be used but you just didn’t tighten these fittings enough. They need to be extremely tight. About 100 foot pounds. All in all you presented this video well. And hopefully it helps others understand that they themselves can replace these without paying a plumber company $1000 to $1500 for a new one. Good job!
I do most of the work on my home. I’d love to replace the water heater myself. Between this awesome video and your detailed comment, I feel more confident. Thank you!
I recently replaced my gas water heater. Rusted out at the bottom and flooded the basement floor. Used pex to reconnect. Diyer with lots of TH-cam video watching
Hey fellow plumber. Im from germany and agree with you but not for two points: -The Anode should be checked yearly, most of them last about 5 years some up to 7 or 8 years but thats in germany maybe its different in the US -I dont think that untrained persons should work with gas pipes. thats extremely dangerous if not done right and youtube is not the best place for some things like this. in germany training lasts 3.5 years for this job and after that you learn even more in the real world without someone checking after you.
Mom just celebrated 20 years in this house and each water heater has failed after about 5 years. I read about replacing the anode, but this doesn't seem more important than everything else on my list (before I was accepted into grad school), so I am hoping it can wait. I offered to replace the water heater the last time, but Mom hired a professional--who had me help him. We did not have a ramp.
Having been a plumber for 40 years, I can say that I've never cut open a water heater or expansion tank. Cool to see. The expansion tank is steel and should not be connected directly to the copper. It's a good idea to add a valve for servicing the tank, which also serves as a dielectric to prevent electrolysis. Always a good idea to use teflon tape and pipe dope on threaded connections. Make sure to wrap the teflon in the same direction as the pipe turns when tightened.
x tank connected to copper is not an issue. adding a valve is not a good idea as someone could turn it off rendering it useless. definately use tape and dope both. jmo
Another suggestion: when I replaced my water heater I installed an automatic shutoff valve at the cold water inlet. A sensor actuates the valve if it detects water on the floor (or in the drip pan, in my case).
I think the 'funky barnacle' was the remains of the hot water tank anode rod. That is in there to keep the tank from rusting, so with yours falling apart, that may be why the tank finally corroded.
Bradford White Water heater doed have an anode rod it slides down into the tank below the the hot water outlet. They use a combination anode rod hot water outlet. you disconnect the hot water output and unscrew the combination hot water outlet tube and anode rod. Let's not forget about the dip tube for the cold water that can be replaced at the same time you're doing the anode rod replacement. If you notice you don't have a lot of hot water that's because the dip tube has deteriorated and the cold fill water is not reaching the bottom
Always use tape and pipe dope. Every diyer should replace a hot water heater and toliet at least once. I kept my hot water heater going for 20 years with just a little TLC and replacing the thermal coupler a few times. When hooking up the gas line, always put some soapy water on the connector and look for any bubbles to appear. It's a good cheap way to assure there is not a gas leak.
Yeah, these aren't difficult jobs, and you can basically make gas connections foolproof with a combination of gas-rated (usually yellow) plumbers tape followed by pipe dope. Many plumbers will use one or the other to save time, and maybe that's fine since they're professionals, but as a DIY'er, just do both to be safe!
The air pressure in the expansion tank will always be the same as your water pressure. To check it you have to depressurize your water lines. Turn off the water to your entire house, open a faucet, then take your reading. It works the same as and is nearly identical to a pressure tank on a well, just smaller, and that is the procedure for checking them. Well pressure tank air pressure should be set to 2 psi below the cut in pressure on your well pump so a 20/40 psi well pump cycle should have the pressure tank pressurized to 18psi with no water pressure in the lines. I assume the expansion tank should be set similarly.
We’ve NEVER had a water heater last more than 6 years because, even with a water softener, our water is full of minerals … and sometimes boulders … or so it seems. And yes, our water softener works just fine. It’s actually less than 2 years old, it was purchased through our local plumber (not a Big Box unit), it was professionally installed, we add excellent quality salt regularly, we scrub the brine tank monthly, and we have the unit professionally maintained annually. It’s definitely our water quality. I’ve never seen an expansion tank on a water heater before. I’ve seen them on water pumps in houses/barns/field irrigation systems/swimming pools/etc. on properties that have private wells where there is no public water source. That’s definitely not a thing where we live. Interesting. The water is black because the water itself ate the rubber bladder. Water does that to rubber after years and years of contact. And yeah, that was disgusting. If you had applied your muscles to the heaviest part of the tank, it wouldn’t have taken so much energy to slide it uphill. Just sayin’. Nice little ramp, though.
Kind of bizarre how the previous plumber installed the old one by tightening those threaded adapters on first and then soldering them onto the copper lines. I would not have put it back the same way, especially with all those crazy joints. I would have sweated some male ends on to the pipes and then used flexible braided steel lines to connect to the water heater -- exactly like the kind you held up briefly during the video -- although I think you were referring to a shark bite version. They make a version with regular threaded ends on both sides. This makes changing water heaters in the future MUCH easier. I know your new heater was taller but you could have redone the way the pressure reducer was sticking out from the wall like that, maybe pop in a right angle and then go up and reposition it higher so that your ends were in the right place. Also, you could have shortened the metal platform.
So no joke, our water heater failed this week (it’s in the main hallway of our home). We had to have a remediation crew come in, remove carpet, and we are currently living in a vortex of fans. Great video, wish it came out two weeks earlier. 😂
Here in the UK we stopped installing these heaters about 20 years ago for a couple of reasons. Firstly gas is expensive here and their efficiency rating is about 50-60%. Due to the burner set up being linear.Secondly they are open flued having a draught diverter, they take the combustion air directly from the room they are installed. And if you inadvertently cause a negative situation you can reverse the flue gases back through the draught diverter into the room which can be Co (carbon monoxide). We only fit room sealed appliances now with an average of 90-96% efficiency. All our pressurised appliance must have a 3 tier level of control. Ie thermostat, high limit stat and pressure/heat release valve (PRV).
Expansion tank pressure should be checked after you turn off the water and open a spigot. If the system is pressurized, it will read the highest pressure, water or air. You pressurize the tank equal to the water pressure.
If you use those, be sure to electrically 'Bond' the hot to cold (and even the Gas) with #10 - #8 copper wire,just in case someone 'grounded' to the wrong pipe elsewhere.
That thing you found in the tank was part of the anode rod. Being a plumber in south Texas we have a hard water issues and the anode rod will last about 1.5 years
A suggestion for people changing the anode rod, especially if you haven't changed it in awhile: Do not even attempt to go at it with a normal wrench. You absolutely need to use an impact wrench. You will almost definitely just strip the bolt with anything other than an impact wrench.
@@zoso1123 You don't have to uninstall the tank to replace the anode rod, you just have to turn the water off, set the pilot light into standby/vacation mode (if it's gas), and then drain the tank fully or partially. Once the tank is drained you can take the rod out, put the new one in, turn the water back on, and turn the water heater back up to your desired temperature. You're also going to want to put a bit of ptfe tape (plumber's tape) around the threading for the rod before you put it in.
@@zoso1123 Ah I see what you're asking. What I would do is pull out as much as you can, clamp it so it doesn't fall back into the tank, and cut it with a grinder. After that, you can pull the rest out, or clamp and cut again if you still don't have enough room.
@Fixthisbuildthat - Thank you for this. After watching, I wondered, "how old is my tank?" It was 17 years old, so I called my guy and had a new one put in this morning. When he was taking it out, we found that it was starting to leak out the bottom...probably days (if not hours) from a gusher. Tank is on second floor, so you saved my home from some potential major damage! Thanks!
Old hot water heaters had a sheet metal pan that they sat on, the pan had a pipe that ran out of the building so if anything went wrong the water just ran outside. I have a gravity feed heater in the roof that has been working for over 50 years now, only thing that has needed attention is once the float valve stuck closed so eventually the tank ran dry rather than overflowing. If i had to get a mains pressure tank I'd keep the pan (maybe fiberglass the inside of the pan) and put a metal or plastic shroud around the tank to direct any leaks or water spray into the pan to flow outside.
If you replace anode every few years and flush tank every year, the tank will pretty much last forever. Expansion tank failure is often because air pressure was not matched with water pressure. Bladder always stays at expanded state when air pressure is lower than water pressure causing premature failure.
My tank is an Inglis Cascade 40 that was installed in 1966. The only problem we has was when our village forced us off our wells and put in a municipal well water system. The pressure was much higher than the well system and the drain valve leaked. The village later added pressure tanks and the leak stopped. I do drain it every couple of years because of our hard water. Still waiting for this tank to fail.
I put my water heater in a 3” deep pan and put a leak detector in there. It gave me plenty of early warning when a seam started to leak. The detector sounds like a smoke detector when it goes off (in the middle of the night…).
if I looked up 'hypocrite' in a dictionary, I'd see your picture - your mouth says "safety first", but you're wearing board-shorts and a t-shirt while using a cordless angle-grinder...
It was a water heater like this that got me into TH-cam and restarted me welding and fabricating again about 6 years ago. This is also how I got into "Rocket Stoves" and Rocket mass heaters. And repurposing stuff, anything with scrap metal... My father-in-law's water heater failed (attic mount, no drip tray) after only 7 years (5 year warranty), the autopsy revealed a careful placed blow, 4 \lb hammer style, in the side of the glass coated cylinder (dent in foam, so definitely production line installed) and a dented outlet pipe connection (carrier/plumber error?), both points of failure. The replacement was installed by insurance plumbing contractor with a tray and external drain, which was new code in South Africa, as well as new valves. My insurance replacement was moved to outside the building we were renting by the insurance contractor.
one thing you did not mention is you can get a metal tray to put under water heater with a plastic drainpipe attachment to run water someplace where it won't destroy floors and ceilings like a floor drain or outside or something. the tanks blowing up like on MythBusters is usually because somebody had water leak from their pressure relief valve because expansion tank failed or they opened it and dirt got in valve, so they unscrew pipe and put a plug in the relief valve. then pressure can get crazy high if they have a city water backflow check valve or pressure reducer which i why they needed an expansion tank. if you don't have check valve expanding water just goes back down cold water pipe
Brad you're killing me. My house was build in 2K5 and it has a Bradford White water heater. I have been talking about replacing it. Maybe I should? ?? ??? Thanks for the kick AND the pressure tank info too! !! !!!
I bought my first house. The temperature pressure relief valve was clogged. Tried to drain the water heater to no avail. Took off the pressure relief valve knuckle. This was under tremendous pressure. Replaced it. Probably bought a few more years.
Bradford White has its anode rod which is in the hot water line. It's a combination anode rod and hot water output. The barnacle you found was what was left of your anode rod. Had you changed it when you bought the house your water heater would probably be intact that day you came home to find water on the floor.
Dielectric unions on the cold water inlet and the hot water outlet will help the water heater last longer. The brass valve above the water heater is also a back flow preventer.
I believe newer tanks that are made from Stainless steel do not use anode rods, might actually be hard to buy a decent WH now that does. I also didn't know about the "annual" maintenance until last year when my 5 year old tank started leaking. I have such awful water where I live that at most people get 6-7 years from our WH's and now I'm cleaning mine every 3 months, and it's crazy the junk that comes out just after 3 months.
We just had a new well dug a year ago (the old one ran dry), and there is roughly 100' difference in how deep the new well was dug. I was quite dismayed at how much CRUD there is in that new well! I blow down the tank once a year now for sure! I've even heard that one should actually leave the water pressure on, so that it will force more junk out. The last time I drained the tank, that's exactly what I did.
Great video. One thing to note. It’s in your garage and certain fumes will shutoff you gas. I think the toxic fumes sensor is mandatory on new tanks. At least here in Canada it is. I was painting and my tank stopped working. There is a flashing light that gives an error code. Doing research the toxic fumes sensor was tripped and had to be replaced. About $100 later I was back up and running. I am pretty sure it was a $20 sensor but that’s what I had to pay. Anyway, check your new tank. If it has a sensor you could have issues with what you do in your garage.
2:14 how I figured out ours was about to go, is that all the houses in our neighborhood were built around the same time, and I started to see heaters one by one on the curb over the course of a month or two ... ours was next. House was built in 92 some basic fuzzy math tells me that lasts about 9.8 years on average, and our old one was made in late 2008 and we replaced ours in July 2019. Here's a tip for everyone when you replace your WH, write the month and year on the outside with a marker so its not as much of a surprise
The amount of scale buildup is determined by how hard your water is. If you lived in Texas instead of Tennessee, you probably would have had a foot deep of scale down there.
You should have tested your water pressure at the heater because of your prv at the heater. Hopefully it was the same because you tested at the hose bib and that is typically before the PRV or the the first water fixture before entering the house.
Here in the UK, our hot water tanks are made of copper. Tho these are going out of fashion with the popularity of combi boilers (they produce heat & hot water) that give hot water on demand. Interesting video tho 👍🍻
@Fix This Build That Just an FYI, the statement that "water is not compressible" is a total myth, ironically created by The Mythbusters. Water is compressible, but because it's a liquid it is only fractionally compressible compared to a gas. All liquids are compressible, even Mercury. However the pressures needed are not pressures we humans typically encounter in life. So to us, water and other liquids only seem incompressible.
Too much chatter. Don't try to drain it as the valve will likely not seal. There is and upper and lower heating element. Do NOT turn on power with tank empty. That was the remains of the Anode, a 5/8" dia aluminum/magnesium rod which while connected helps prevent internal corrosion. Bladder had long gone in Pressure area of small tank.
FYI in Australia, regulations stipulate you have a tray under and heated water vessel with a plumbed in drain. There is requirements put on the tray size too. Additionally hot water vessels here don’t have a the expansion tanks. And finally, some hot water vessels have non-return valves which I would assume is why you couldn’t turn on you hot tap to drain it quicker. If you turn on the cold, it would work.
New installs require mostly the same in the US. Though it does vary a bit by state or even county. Floor drain, drain pan, extension on the pressure relief to get it close to the ground (to prevent burns should it go off). In earthquake areas a strap holding it to the walls and flexible pipe connections. Most places require an expansion tank because there are check valves in the lines from the city. As the tank heats up, the thermal expansion has to go somewhere.
Sadly the person talking does not know what he is talking about. Almost every water heater has an anode rod, they last a lot longer than a3-4 years. The life of a water heater is related to the size og the anode rod. Once the rod is gone, expect the water heater to fail fail soon. Great way to shorten the water heaters life is to transport on its side. Gets hairline cracks when pipe or side extrusions get pressured. I have cut up alot of water heaters and reused them in other applications, and was interesting to see why they failed. To eemove sprey foam you do it on cement to make easier cleanup. ---- NOT on the grass!!!!
That sucks big time. Been there and done that. A few times. Long story short... keep you turn off key handy and know where your water valve is. If you go on a weeks vacation shut the flow off to the house. I have one that will leave the sprinkler on, but shut the house down. I've had a pop off valve fail, the previous owner used regular PVC for the drain on it. That failed shortly because the glue is not rated for scalding hot water. I was home. Was able to shut the hot water heat fill off quickly. Had a plumber repair it. Despite the down sides, I really do want to go with tankless.
You may have just disscovered why you should install a flex hose from the heater to the house. Really a bummer to have a leak on a fitting you cannot tighten. Cut down your pedistal some, get rid of as many sweated connections by installing flex hose and you should be good for another 10 years. I did the same thing you are doing with a tank that leaked and stopped for a year and started again. Owning a house is fix this fix that.😅
Have been through about three water heaters with the last one failing basically down to the exact month of the 12-year rating. Something worth mentioning as part of the replacement is adding an inexpensive leak pan and/or water leak detector for that next time around.
The leak detectors are hugely important especially if you have a finished area where the water heater can cause major damage. In some towns where I live it's required to have one if your basement is finished or even semi-finished
A water heater will last indefinitely if you do yearly maintenance and cleaning. Parents' water heater is from before I was born and still looks brand new inside. Every year dad will drain out the massive amounts of calcium and then was out the bottom with a hose and shopvac. The heating elements are cleaned or changed as needed as well as the sacrificial node.
THIS is why you need to change that anode rod every 4 years on average, depending on your water quality. Obviously your water heater didn't have a functioning anode rod that would slow down the corrosion. Instead you had what was left over from the rod, the stick you pulled out at the end of the video.
Thanks for this video. I've never done any maintenance on my hot water heater because, well I never knew it needed done. Looks like that will be tomorrow's project.
Nice soldering job! I learned to solder with my Dad when we switched from a coal hot air furnace to a base board hot water furnace. Must have soldered 250 joints that week. I ditto whoever said get a pan, and you can get a water sensor too for cheap. If you have IoT setup at home, they have ones that integrate. If not, they'll just beep super loud. Again, nice job!
That pressure tank, they need to be checked at least yearly they slowly leak down and when its to low on bladder pressure water gets past and behind the bladder and rusts them out. The bladder either rip/tears or doesn't seal against the tank and one way or another water in places it shouldn't be 🎉 😮 😂
The anode rod is on the hot outlet. Some people are saying it's on the cold inlet, even some saying the dip-tube is "coated." It's just a solid magnesium anode that is connected to the hot outlet nipple.
was that solder he used in between the pipe pieces? i know that stuff is used for connecting electronics like repairing wires or connecting points on a board. isn't that stuff pretty soft? would it be able to resist 50lbs per square inch of water pressure that he measures for his faucet?
American Videos about are always quite interesting to me as a Professional heating Planner from Switzerland, especially how short the life expectancy for some appliances are. Like, we commonly expect the hot water tanks here to last at least around 20 years if not more (sometimes up to 40) though it is also extremely rare to have them directly heated, as most are instead hooked up to the main heating system with a central heat source for both heating and hot water.
I've only experienced this type of system once here in the USA (and in Northern Minnesota, at that), and that was at a lakeshore house we rented in the offseason. Since the crawl space underneath the house was not insulated, nor were the hot water pipes for heating, it was VERY expensive to heat that place during temperatures in the -20 to -30 range (both in Fahrenheit and Celsius)! But we always had hot water! I applaud having a system like that, for the sake of using the heat twice. But unfortunately so many places in the USA use forced-air heat instead of hot water heat.
7:00 Someone has probably already mentioned this (I haven't read all the comments) but the FIRST thing you should do is turn your gas control to "Pilot" or "off" BEFORE draining the tank.
I don’t know if anybody’s mentioned it to you yet or not, but the Bradford white water heaters do have anode rods. With the gas models, they are under the hot water nipple. What was left of the rod is the skinny stick you picked up from the bottom after opening the tank
I was going to mention the same thing about the anode rod, or what was left of it. 😅
@@valazuniga I was going to mention that too, anybody else thinking of mentioning that? Please chime in here, It's real important that we hear from everybody and show everybody that if the original poster had not beat us, we would of said the same thing.
Same here.
Yep. I wonder how long the water heater would have kept going if he kept up with the maintenance and replaced the rod like he should have?
@@gardenpondfishgreenhouse573I was going to mention the same thing but then I saw your post so I decided not to.
I opened one that had been on well water for 15 years. It was 60+% full of solid white lime. Could not believe how much and just how THICK it was. Crazy things we neglect. One neat thing was the chunks that had apparently grown on the electric heating element. As the heat cycles, they expand and contract and all off, accumulating down at the bottom. It must have had 15" deep of white rocks on the bottom. Blekt!
I bet mine looks like that inside. Well water. High lime. My WH is a BW and i just discovered it is 40 years old. When heating, you can hear cracking noise inside.
Excellent - I’m one of those guys that do all handyman things around the house and I even replaced my current water heater. I’ve been hearing for over40years to annually drain the tank to remove sediment…..and I’ve never done it. My current tank is now 10 years old and on my radar for replacement. This video is timely and reminding me that I need to elevate this project. Because of your video, I may cut mine open to see what is inside
I've always done my own also. The current gas water heater is a GE bought from HD and installed in Sept. 2008.
Lol, our water heater is from 1990 and still works great. My parents have replaced theirs 3 times since their house was built in 2002. If you have a older one, might be better to just keep it working until it leaks. (unless you have it in a place where it would cause a lot of damage, ours is in the basement right next to a drain)
Yes, absolutely. If it's not in a place where it'll cause damage then let it go til it leaks 👍
I cut one up and made a little heating wood stove out of it. If anyone thinks about playing around with these, take respiratory precautions because the inside is lined with glass, I verified it when I tried to weld to it and couldn't get a good ground haha, once I got a good ground I was able to just blow through the glass layer.
I'm a homeowner with a 12 year, at the end of it's service life, Bradford-White water heater. I called them up with the model number and serial number, figuring if they could sell me the same model, it would speed up installation. They told me they don't sell to homeowners and were of no help at all in trying to locate a replacement. They didn't care at all, in my opinion, when I told them I was a homeowner. I looked about on the internet and found Bradford-White sometimes sells rebraded GE, so if you need a Bradford-White, maybe go that route.
Note that , depending on your local jurisdiction, it may be illegal to work on natural gas pipes **without proper licensing or certification**.
It may also void your house insurance, or put you in violation of your gas supplier's contract.
Be sure to know what your local laws are, and what your insurance contract specifies.
That little stick is what's left of the anode rod that you should have replaced 5 years ago. 😀
😂 😂 😂
Hey Brad, long-time subscriber and fan of your work. Thanks for putting this up there. The "mistakes were made" shirt I guess was appropriate for this project, although to be fair I think even with all the maintenance all you can do is slightly prolong the inevitable. BTW there is actually a good chance that you do (did) have an anode rod that doubles as the cold side dip tube. My Bradford White has that configuration and I did buy a replacement. Trouble is, my WH is in the basement with a relatively low ceiling so it's a major PITA to change this out.
Anyway, that "what is this" moment when you tore into the WH makes me bet that is the remains of your former anode rod.
They make anode rods that are foldable, specifically for the low ceiling situations
the barnacle is the anode rod it causes an electrical reaction that is supposed to neutralize the electrical reaction that causes the rust .
if you replace the rod it is possible to extend the life of the tank but i am not sure if you can get replacement rods.
The #1 thing every homeowner can do to save themselves money, both on damages from a leak and in replacement cost, is to inspect the sacrificial anode annually. Do not go more than three years without having the anode inspected.
As Brad mentions, the anode is sacrificial, meaning that it's designed to corrode before the tank. Replace the anode when it's 50% consumed.
The #2 thing every homeowner can do to extend the life of their water heater is to flush it annually. Importantly, this doesn't mean simply draining the tank. Water must be forced into the tank at the drain level in order to dislodge sediment. A pressure washer wand attached to a standard garden hose works well for this task.
#3, operation of the TPR valve should be tested annually. Additionally, rather than opening upper level hot water faucets, simply openly the TPR breaks any vacuum that occur when draining the tank.
#4, checking both the pressure regulator and accumulator tank pressure should be a part of an annual water heater inspection.
Lastly, use a combination of compressed air and a shop vac, clear any debris accumulated around the combustion chamber; most often from insects, spiders and the like.
Do these things and your water heater will easily exceed the typical 8 to 12 year life span.
I just got a new one, my old one made it 19 years. it did have two minor repairs in that time.
We had one that was 17 years old when we bought the house. Needless to say I replaced that really quick
Sometimes its the tubes inside that corrode/break off, I'm pretty sure that happened to mine, the cold water never gets pumped ot the bottom and it short circuits cold water at the top.
most austrlian water heaters are outside on the side of your house, if it does explode it does not damage anything
Before you drained the tank, I hope you turned the propane off... you can burn up the element if there's no water.... (for the maintenance) although, in your case it doesn't matter since it's failing already.
On another page, someone was making comments about using pipe dope and tape, which seemed preferred. The TH-camr said "pipe dope is a lubricant....the tape is the sealant" not sure, just something I viewed.
If you load the pressure tank to 50 psi it will not fill at all when you turn on the 50 psi water. This makes it almost useless. You should probably load it to about half before mounting it. Good luck everyone.
This same thing happened to me a couple weeks ago, except it was inside the house. Luckily my room is right next to it, so I heard it in enough time for it not to cause too much damage. Just some wet carpets and a few wood boards for the floor that need to be replaced
Bought a new construction home 11 years ago. The water heater is electric and I replaced the heating elements in it just over a year ago. Great video here, my takeaway is I need to start paying more attention to it and now. 😊
Did you replace the sacrificial anode?
I find this fascinating as here in Australia, many of these, especially on houses of that age would have simply never been installed and an instant gas would have been put in which is pretty much default these days. No tanks to mess with, less room etc? is there any reason these are not used commonly in the US?
The reason is existing infrastructure inside of the home. Most electric tankless heaters are 220v and our regular circuits are 120v, and gas tankless heaters still require electricity, so usually it requires running a new circuit no matter what, and that usually means hiring an electrician. Gas tank water heaters do not require electricity, even to start (they have a push spark system that ignites the pilot light), so there usually isn't a circuit right where the water heater is. On top of that, with a new tankless heater, you have to move both gas and water plumbing around, mount it somewhere, etc.
A DIY replacement of a gas water heater will only run you about $700-800 or so, including fittings. It's a simple drop-in replacement that requires three connections only (gas, cold water, and hot water), so usually it's a no-brainer to just swap a new one in. Going tankless requires a lot more expertise and most people would probably have to hire someone, which would probably quadruple the cost.
BW water heaters have their anode rod connected to the hot water connection. They can be replaced, but that obviously wasn't done here. The anode was probably completely gone; that 'barnacle' was likely what was left of it. That's why the tank corroded.
I have seen these tanks turned into BBQ grill/smokers. They are great for that after you cut them in half and clean up a bit.
Thank you for this timely video! After watching it, I went to the attic to check out our water heater. It turns out it's 13 years old and definitely showing signs of aging and mini leaks. We're considering replacing it with a tankless water heater. Was there a reason you chose not to go that route?
The price and more complex installation are the only reasons I can think of
I installed a tankless in our last home I’ll be installing them here
interesting about the expansion tank. I have been in many many homes and light commercial buildings and never once have I ever seen an expansion tank on a hot water heater. Even the ones recently replaced by licensed plumbers do not have them. I just went through the process of selling 2 buildings and inspectors that went through building during the sale before final sign off didn't even question it. They were more worried about the tp valve tube not being long enough but never mentioned the lack of expansion tank. The tp valve has also never went off ever.
Why does nobody seem to put these on or are there some circumstances where they are needed and others where they are not?
As a plumbing contractor who comes to your channel for woodworking videos...I loved this! Good job Brad.
Really ? No dielectric connectors , no unions , pipe threads leaked , No drip pan , no leak detection , the list goes on but Good job Brad .
Wow just wow! Is there anything that You can't fix ? I hope not. Great job on inspection and in depth video for us.
OK, so the tank is in a utility area with a concrete floor. No real harm done. If the tank is inside it should really be sitting in a pan with a drain to cope with leaks like this. Sooner or later all tanks, even unpressurised ones, will leak. Most people never experience a ruptured tank, just a leak. My copper tank lasted 48 years (installed by previous owner!), my current steel (vitreous lined) is now 15 years old and going strong. Yes, I'm one of these weird people that actually check the sacrificial anode.
So, if you have a pressure regulator before the heater, is measuring the water pressure at a hose bib an accurate measurement of water pressure into the heater?
Damn, wish I’d have seen your sled idea before I replaced my water heater…. Great video, thanks for sharing.
Happened to me yesterday. Guys were working on the gas line to the dryer, and when they went to re-light the pilot on the water heater, the damned thing fell apart. $3k BAM.
Thank you for this! Did the new tank come with the rod?
Yes it does. But it appears the old one had it under the hot nozzle
@@Fixthisbuildthat if you remember, would you consider doing a short on replacing that rod, & things to be aware of when doing it? 🙂
We had our hot water heater replaced this years because it started seeping. It was 26 years old.
I made sure I could replace the water heat quick and easy if it did break… and it paid off 9 years later.
Water heaters don’t last forever.
got 32 years out of my old state water heater
That "Crazy Barnacle" was the remains of an anode rod. As far as sediment goes, it is a much lesser problem with modern city filtration systems but it should still be done semi-annually. Every 2 to 3 years if you are in a city with decent water filtration systems. *BUT* remember to turn the cold water supply back on when you get down to about 1/3rd to a 1/4 tank. The incoming water will help stir the tank and prevent too much sediment from settling in the tank and not flushing with everything else.
Oh?.. huh... most people.. have a tub/tray under the heater with a tube/pipe/hose to a drain or whatnot... so go buy one bro😜 , was that long skinny thing you called a barnacle was that the anode?
Dammit, why did you remind me that I need to replace mine...
Little rod was your anode
Do your neighbors worry about you? 😂
Wow.. you have to heat your hot water with a hot water heater where you live?
Hi there! I'm a long time employee of Bradford White. Judging by the model and year of production, there's a good chance I handled a part of that heaters production. It was cool to see the inside of one that's been in the field that long. Anyways, love the content and keep up the great work!
I'm glad he got this install in as practice, you know, for when he replaces that POS Rheem with another BW in 6 months to a year.
Thanks for making an awesome product, glad you folks still take pride in your work. Bradford White is the gold standard.
@@some0ne8 Here in Australia, Rheem is the goto HWS of choice, normal to get 20yrs plus life out of them and a lot are still going 30+ yrs.
Our plumbing is a lot less convoluted to yours, cold inblet bottom, hot outlet top. Tthe PRV also acts as the primary expansion relief valve so you know its always working properly
Brian, why was there no anode rod in his? Have HW heater manufacturers found a different way around the problem?
@some0ne8 I appreciate you saying that about our products! I watch this channel because I enjoy the DIY world, unfortunately BW heaters can't be accessed by mos DIY people.
@@MRrwmac The metal stick he was hold was part of the rod. They last about 6 years and then will have the rod completly exposed and it rusts away.
That 'barnicle' you found in the tank is probably the remains of the steel rod inside the zinc or magnesium sacrificial anode.
Definitely. Even though they didn't seem to give access to it at the top, it was there.
@@teefill I was waiting for him to say that the black spot on the top turned out to be the anode after all but when he pulled the lid i didnt see a hole....
The size of the anode is the size of the warranty that came with the hot water heater. Replace the anode regularly will replace your warranty as the tank will not rust out.
Adding a powered anode rod when you install your new water heater is a very good investment. The one I have is called "Corro Protec". The reason your tank rusts and leaks is that the anode rod was never replaced. Also, dielectric nipples need to be installed. You can get over 30 years of use out of a water heater with minimal care.
Every modern tank style heater comes with dielectric nipples pre-installed
As a maintenance man I’ve installed hundreds of these. Ive also seen hundreds working fine and sitting at over 20 years of age. Most People don’t go with the ten year average. They work em til they start leaking. A lot of issues start with how bad the water minerals are. Water is corrosive and a terrible match for raw metal. The two nEver get along.
Expansion valves are more for water knocking in pipes from the water being turned on and off then heat Expansion. It does work for expansion but really no one has these valves unless they’ve had water Knock in pipes is present.
Normally water tanks have issues not because of sediment. But due to poor quality of water from plant. And age. If anode rod is doing it’s job it keeps the tank clean. Anode Rods can last a good ten years. Not just 3 or 4 as you suggest. Depends on the water.
It’s the corrosiveness of the water that damages water heaters. That and failed temperature and pressure relief Valves.
As well as the fill tube being eaten away due to them being plastic. When that breaks down the cold water is no longer sent to the bottom of tank which allows already heated water to evacuate first. And once you lose your anode rod your tank is left unprotected.
Great video and you’ve done your home work.
People need to learn these things so they can understand how they work. The Chances of one of these actually blowing up is about .0001 percent. It’s why they have built in safety features.
Pipe dope is great and what should be used but you just didn’t tighten these fittings enough. They need to be extremely tight. About 100 foot pounds.
All in all you presented this video well. And hopefully it helps others understand that they themselves can replace these without paying a plumber company $1000 to $1500 for a new one.
Good job!
Thanks! I also think most water heaters can go well past 12 years (like this one). Must be Big Water Heater driving the 8-12 year narrative 😂😂
I do most of the work on my home. I’d love to replace the water heater myself. Between this awesome video and your detailed comment, I feel more confident. Thank you!
I recently replaced my gas water heater. Rusted out at the bottom and flooded the basement floor. Used pex to reconnect. Diyer with lots of TH-cam video watching
Hey fellow plumber. Im from germany and agree with you but not for two points:
-The Anode should be checked yearly, most of them last about 5 years some up to 7 or 8 years but thats in germany maybe its different in the US
-I dont think that untrained persons should work with gas pipes. thats extremely dangerous if not done right and youtube is not the best place for some things like this.
in germany training lasts 3.5 years for this job and after that you learn even more in the real world without someone checking after you.
Mom just celebrated 20 years in this house and each water heater has failed after about 5 years. I read about replacing the anode, but this doesn't seem more important than everything else on my list (before I was accepted into grad school), so I am hoping it can wait.
I offered to replace the water heater the last time, but Mom hired a professional--who had me help him.
We did not have a ramp.
Having been a plumber for 40 years, I can say that I've never cut open a water heater or expansion tank. Cool to see. The expansion tank is steel and should not be connected directly to the copper. It's a good idea to add a valve for servicing the tank, which also serves as a dielectric to prevent electrolysis. Always a good idea to use teflon tape and pipe dope on threaded connections. Make sure to wrap the teflon in the same direction as the pipe turns when tightened.
x tank connected to copper is not an issue. adding a valve is not a good idea as someone could turn it off rendering it useless. definately use tape and dope both. jmo
Another suggestion: when I replaced my water heater I installed an automatic shutoff valve at the cold water inlet. A sensor actuates the valve if it detects water on the floor (or in the drip pan, in my case).
excellent idea
What brand/model did you use? I’ve been looking at that very idea…. Thanks
@@dougsnavely847I used a brand called flood stop on mine.
I think the 'funky barnacle' was the remains of the hot water tank anode rod. That is in there to keep the tank from rusting, so with yours falling apart, that may be why the tank finally corroded.
oddly, he said in the video he didn't have one!
@@rickcimino5483 maybe due to it totally corroding
Bradford White Water heater doed have an anode rod it slides down into the tank below the the hot water outlet. They use a combination anode rod hot water outlet. you disconnect the hot water output and unscrew the combination hot water outlet tube and anode rod. Let's not forget about the dip tube for the cold water that can be replaced at the same time you're doing the anode rod replacement. If you notice you don't have a lot of hot water that's because the dip tube has deteriorated and the cold fill water is not reaching the bottom
The rod is connected to the hot water nipple.
Always use tape and pipe dope. Every diyer should replace a hot water heater and toliet at least once. I kept my hot water heater going for 20 years with just a little TLC and replacing the thermal coupler a few times. When hooking up the gas line, always put some soapy water on the connector and look for any bubbles to appear. It's a good cheap way to assure there is not a gas leak.
Yeah, these aren't difficult jobs, and you can basically make gas connections foolproof with a combination of gas-rated (usually yellow) plumbers tape followed by pipe dope. Many plumbers will use one or the other to save time, and maybe that's fine since they're professionals, but as a DIY'er, just do both to be safe!
Oatley makes an all purpose leak detector. Ive read that soapy water may cause rust. Not sure if this is true.
The air pressure in the expansion tank will always be the same as your water pressure. To check it you have to depressurize your water lines. Turn off the water to your entire house, open a faucet, then take your reading. It works the same as and is nearly identical to a pressure tank on a well, just smaller, and that is the procedure for checking them. Well pressure tank air pressure should be set to 2 psi below the cut in pressure on your well pump so a 20/40 psi well pump cycle should have the pressure tank pressurized to 18psi with no water pressure in the lines. I assume the expansion tank should be set similarly.
We’ve NEVER had a water heater last more than 6 years because, even with a water softener, our water is full of minerals … and sometimes boulders … or so it seems.
And yes, our water softener works just fine. It’s actually less than 2 years old, it was purchased through our local plumber (not a Big Box unit), it was professionally installed, we add excellent quality salt regularly, we scrub the brine tank monthly, and we have the unit professionally maintained annually. It’s definitely our water quality.
I’ve never seen an expansion tank on a water heater before. I’ve seen them on water pumps in houses/barns/field irrigation systems/swimming pools/etc. on properties that have private wells where there is no public water source. That’s definitely not a thing where we live. Interesting.
The water is black because the water itself ate the rubber bladder. Water does that to rubber after years and years of contact. And yeah, that was disgusting.
If you had applied your muscles to the heaviest part of the tank, it wouldn’t have taken so much energy to slide it uphill. Just sayin’. Nice little ramp, though.
what part of the world/country are you in?
Your "crazy barnacle" was an anode rod. Water heaters don't explode - they leak slowly. If you maintain them properly you can get 30+ years out of it.
Yeah, never seen that style rod before. Always seen the ones that screw in from the top
@@Fixthisbuildthat it does screw in from the top it's the hot water output side of the water heater.
Kind of bizarre how the previous plumber installed the old one by tightening those threaded adapters on first and then soldering them onto the copper lines. I would not have put it back the same way, especially with all those crazy joints. I would have sweated some male ends on to the pipes and then used flexible braided steel lines to connect to the water heater -- exactly like the kind you held up briefly during the video -- although I think you were referring to a shark bite version. They make a version with regular threaded ends on both sides. This makes changing water heaters in the future MUCH easier. I know your new heater was taller but you could have redone the way the pressure reducer was sticking out from the wall like that, maybe pop in a right angle and then go up and reposition it higher so that your ends were in the right place. Also, you could have shortened the metal platform.
So no joke, our water heater failed this week (it’s in the main hallway of our home). We had to have a remediation crew come in, remove carpet, and we are currently living in a vortex of fans. Great video, wish it came out two weeks earlier. 😂
Ugh, hate to hear that
Here in the UK we stopped installing these heaters about 20 years ago for a couple of reasons. Firstly gas is expensive here and their efficiency rating is about 50-60%. Due to the burner set up being linear.Secondly they are open flued having a draught diverter, they take the combustion air directly from the room they are installed. And if you inadvertently cause a negative situation you can reverse the flue gases back through the draught diverter into the room which can be Co (carbon monoxide). We only fit room sealed appliances now with an average of 90-96% efficiency. All our pressurised appliance must have a 3 tier level of control. Ie thermostat, high limit stat and pressure/heat release valve (PRV).
Expansion tank pressure should be checked after you turn off the water and open a spigot. If the system is pressurized, it will read the highest pressure, water or air. You pressurize the tank equal to the water pressure.
I would suggest a dielectric union for the copper to steel connection. Will help stop corrosion and make it easier to connect/disconect.
If you use those, be sure to electrically 'Bond' the hot to cold (and even the Gas) with #10 - #8 copper wire,just in case someone 'grounded' to the wrong pipe elsewhere.
That thing you found in the tank was part of the anode rod. Being a plumber in south Texas we have a hard water issues and the anode rod will last about 1.5 years
A suggestion for people changing the anode rod, especially if you haven't changed it in awhile: Do not even attempt to go at it with a normal wrench. You absolutely need to use an impact wrench. You will almost definitely just strip the bolt with anything other than an impact wrench.
Penetrating oil, wait a day, use any wrench next question. 😂
If i have to uninstall the tank to replace then reinstall why wouldnt i just change the tank? Asking for a friend
@@zoso1123 You don't have to uninstall the tank to replace the anode rod, you just have to turn the water off, set the pilot light into standby/vacation mode (if it's gas), and then drain the tank fully or partially. Once the tank is drained you can take the rod out, put the new one in, turn the water back on, and turn the water heater back up to your desired temperature. You're also going to want to put a bit of ptfe tape (plumber's tape) around the threading for the rod before you put it in.
@@ibtarnine how do u fit a rod in the tank without tipping the tank in a basement with low ceilings?
@@zoso1123 Ah I see what you're asking. What I would do is pull out as much as you can, clamp it so it doesn't fall back into the tank, and cut it with a grinder. After that, you can pull the rest out, or clamp and cut again if you still don't have enough room.
Down in Southwest LA, they put the water heaters in the attic. Could you imagine the disaster if it decides to go up there?! Great video!
@Fixthisbuildthat - Thank you for this. After watching, I wondered, "how old is my tank?" It was 17 years old, so I called my guy and had a new one put in this morning. When he was taking it out, we found that it was starting to leak out the bottom...probably days (if not hours) from a gusher. Tank is on second floor, so you saved my home from some potential major damage! Thanks!
Old hot water heaters had a sheet metal pan that they sat on, the pan had a pipe that ran out of the building so if anything went wrong the water just ran outside. I have a gravity feed heater in the roof that has been working for over 50 years now, only thing that has needed attention is once the float valve stuck closed so eventually the tank ran dry rather than overflowing. If i had to get a mains pressure tank I'd keep the pan (maybe fiberglass the inside of the pan) and put a metal or plastic shroud around the tank to direct any leaks or water spray into the pan to flow outside.
If you replace anode every few years and flush tank every year, the tank will pretty much last forever. Expansion tank failure is often because air pressure was not matched with water pressure. Bladder always stays at expanded state when air pressure is lower than water pressure causing premature failure.
My tank is an Inglis Cascade 40 that was installed in 1966. The only problem we has was when our village forced us off our wells and put in a municipal well water system. The pressure was much higher than the well system and the drain valve leaked. The village later added pressure tanks and the leak stopped. I do drain it every couple of years because of our hard water. Still waiting for this tank to fail.
It may be a copper tank.
I put my water heater in a 3” deep pan and put a leak detector in there. It gave me plenty of early warning when a seam started to leak. The detector sounds like a smoke detector when it goes off (in the middle of the night…).
if I looked up 'hypocrite' in a dictionary, I'd see your picture - your mouth says "safety first", but you're wearing board-shorts and a t-shirt while using a cordless angle-grinder...
It was a water heater like this that got me into TH-cam and restarted me welding and fabricating again about 6 years ago. This is also how I got into "Rocket Stoves" and Rocket mass heaters. And repurposing stuff, anything with scrap metal...
My father-in-law's water heater failed (attic mount, no drip tray) after only 7 years (5 year warranty), the autopsy revealed a careful placed blow, 4 \lb hammer style, in the side of the glass coated cylinder (dent in foam, so definitely production line installed) and a dented outlet pipe connection (carrier/plumber error?), both points of failure. The replacement was installed by insurance plumbing contractor with a tray and external drain, which was new code in South Africa, as well as new valves. My insurance replacement was moved to outside the building we were renting by the insurance contractor.
one thing you did not mention is you can get a metal tray to put under water heater with a plastic drainpipe attachment to run water someplace where it won't destroy floors and ceilings like a floor drain or outside or something.
the tanks blowing up like on MythBusters is usually because somebody had water leak from their pressure relief valve because expansion tank failed or they opened it and dirt got in valve, so they unscrew pipe and put a plug in the relief valve. then pressure can get crazy high if they have a city water backflow check valve or pressure reducer which i why they needed an expansion tank. if you don't have check valve expanding water just goes back down cold water pipe
Brad you're killing me. My house was build in 2K5 and it has a Bradford White water heater. I have been talking about replacing it. Maybe I should? ?? ??? Thanks for the kick AND the pressure tank info too! !! !!!
This was both fascinating and helpful. Thank you for using your homeowner problem to educate the rest of us.
You're welcome!
too bad almost everything he said is WRONG
@@timothywhieldon1971 have you been talking to my mother-in-law?
I bought my first house. The temperature pressure relief valve was clogged. Tried to drain the water heater to no avail. Took off the pressure relief valve knuckle. This was under tremendous pressure. Replaced it. Probably bought a few more years.
Bradford White has its anode rod which is in the hot water line. It's a combination anode rod and hot water output. The barnacle you found was what was left of your anode rod. Had you changed it when you bought the house your water heater would probably be intact that day you came home to find water on the floor.
Nice to know about the Anode rod... thanks for the info ... now time to call my plumber an get mine checked out
Dielectric unions on the cold water inlet and the hot water outlet will help the water heater last longer. The brass valve above the water heater is also a back flow preventer.
I believe newer tanks that are made from Stainless steel do not use anode rods, might actually be hard to buy a decent WH now that does. I also didn't know about the "annual" maintenance until last year when my 5 year old tank started leaking. I have such awful water where I live that at most people get 6-7 years from our WH's and now I'm cleaning mine every 3 months, and it's crazy the junk that comes out just after 3 months.
We just had a new well dug a year ago (the old one ran dry), and there is roughly 100' difference in how deep the new well was dug. I was quite dismayed at how much CRUD there is in that new well! I blow down the tank once a year now for sure! I've even heard that one should actually leave the water pressure on, so that it will force more junk out. The last time I drained the tank, that's exactly what I did.
Great video. One thing to note. It’s in your garage and certain fumes will shutoff you gas. I think the toxic fumes sensor is mandatory on new tanks. At least here in Canada it is. I was painting and my tank stopped working. There is a flashing light that gives an error code. Doing research the toxic fumes sensor was tripped and had to be replaced. About $100 later I was back up and running. I am pretty sure it was a $20 sensor but that’s what I had to pay. Anyway, check your new tank. If it has a sensor you could have issues with what you do in your garage.
Replace that plastic drain valve with a brass one. The plastic ones have a high failure rate I only learned about after it flooded my basement.
2:14 how I figured out ours was about to go, is that all the houses in our neighborhood were built around the same time, and I started to see heaters one by one on the curb over the course of a month or two ... ours was next. House was built in 92 some basic fuzzy math tells me that lasts about 9.8 years on average, and our old one was made in late 2008 and we replaced ours in July 2019. Here's a tip for everyone when you replace your WH, write the month and year on the outside with a marker so its not as much of a surprise
And don't do it with a Sharpie. I did, and now I can just barely discern the last digit of the year of installation, 2008.
The amount of scale buildup is determined by how hard your water is. If you lived in Texas instead of Tennessee, you probably would have had a foot deep of scale down there.
Hey hey just a reminder DO NOT WEAR GLOVES WHEN USING ANGLE GRINDER!!! Glove may be caught by the spinning disc and it will destroy your hand
Many Bradford White heaters have the anode built into the hot water outlet.
You should have tested your water pressure at the heater because of your prv at the heater. Hopefully it was the same because you tested at the hose bib and that is typically before the PRV or the the first water fixture before entering the house.
Here in the UK, our hot water tanks are made of copper. Tho these are going out of fashion with the popularity of combi boilers (they produce heat & hot water) that give hot water on demand.
Interesting video tho 👍🍻
@Fix This Build That
Just an FYI, the statement that "water is not compressible" is a total myth, ironically created by The Mythbusters. Water is compressible, but because it's a liquid it is only fractionally compressible compared to a gas. All liquids are compressible, even Mercury. However the pressures needed are not pressures we humans typically encounter in life. So to us, water and other liquids only seem incompressible.
Too much chatter. Don't try to drain it as the valve will likely not seal. There is and upper and lower heating element. Do NOT turn on power with tank empty. That was the remains of the Anode, a 5/8" dia aluminum/magnesium rod which while connected helps prevent internal corrosion. Bladder had long gone in Pressure area of small tank.
They design the anode rod so that the Heater WILL fail almost exactly ONE YEAR after the warranty expires.
FYI in Australia, regulations stipulate you have a tray under and heated water vessel with a plumbed in drain.
There is requirements put on the tray size too.
Additionally hot water vessels here don’t have a the expansion tanks.
And finally, some hot water vessels have non-return valves which I would assume is why you couldn’t turn on you hot tap to drain it quicker. If you turn on the cold, it would work.
New installs require mostly the same in the US. Though it does vary a bit by state or even county. Floor drain, drain pan, extension on the pressure relief to get it close to the ground (to prevent burns should it go off). In earthquake areas a strap holding it to the walls and flexible pipe connections. Most places require an expansion tank because there are check valves in the lines from the city. As the tank heats up, the thermal expansion has to go somewhere.
Sadly the person talking does not know what he is talking about. Almost every water heater has an anode rod, they last a lot longer than a3-4 years. The life of a water heater is related to the size og the anode rod. Once the rod is gone, expect the water heater to fail fail soon. Great way to shorten the water heaters life is to transport on its side. Gets hairline cracks when pipe or side extrusions get pressured. I have cut up alot of water heaters and reused them in other applications, and was interesting to see why they failed. To eemove sprey foam you do it on cement to make easier cleanup. ---- NOT on the grass!!!!
That sucks big time. Been there and done that. A few times. Long story short... keep you turn off key handy and know where your water valve is. If you go on a weeks vacation shut the flow off to the house. I have one that will leave the sprinkler on, but shut the house down. I've had a pop off valve fail, the previous owner used regular PVC for the drain on it. That failed shortly because the glue is not rated for scalding hot water. I was home. Was able to shut the hot water heat fill off quickly. Had a plumber repair it. Despite the down sides, I really do want to go with tankless.
Oh yeah, I shut our water off every time we leave overnight. I've had too many close calls and friends who had flooded houses when they were gone
You may have just disscovered why you should install a flex hose from the heater to the house. Really a bummer to have a leak on a fitting you cannot tighten. Cut down your pedistal some, get rid of as many sweated connections by installing flex hose and you should be good for another 10 years. I did the same thing you are doing with a tank that leaked and stopped for a year and started again. Owning a house is fix this fix that.😅
Have been through about three water heaters with the last one failing basically down to the exact month of the 12-year rating.
Something worth mentioning as part of the replacement is adding an inexpensive leak pan and/or water leak detector for that next time around.
The leak detectors are hugely important especially if you have a finished area where the water heater can cause major damage. In some towns where I live it's required to have one if your basement is finished or even semi-finished
A water heater will last indefinitely if you do yearly maintenance and cleaning.
Parents' water heater is from before I was born and still looks brand new inside.
Every year dad will drain out the massive amounts of calcium and then was out the bottom with a hose and shopvac.
The heating elements are cleaned or changed as needed as well as the sacrificial node.
THIS is why you need to change that anode rod every 4 years on average, depending on your water quality. Obviously your water heater didn't have a functioning anode rod that would slow down the corrosion. Instead you had what was left over from the rod, the stick you pulled out at the end of the video.
Thanks for this video. I've never done any maintenance on my hot water heater because, well I never knew it needed done. Looks like that will be tomorrow's project.
2 minute video...
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NARCISSISTIC COMMERCIAL !
Nice soldering job! I learned to solder with my Dad when we switched from a coal hot air furnace to a base board hot water furnace. Must have soldered 250 joints that week. I ditto whoever said get a pan, and you can get a water sensor too for cheap. If you have IoT setup at home, they have ones that integrate. If not, they'll just beep super loud. Again, nice job!
That pressure tank, they need to be checked at least yearly they slowly leak down and when its to low on bladder pressure water gets past and behind the bladder and rusts them out. The bladder either rip/tears or doesn't seal against the tank and one way or another water in places it shouldn't be 🎉 😮 😂
The anode rod is on the hot outlet. Some people are saying it's on the cold inlet, even some saying the dip-tube is "coated." It's just a solid magnesium anode that is connected to the hot outlet nipple.
Nice, didn't know that
was that solder he used in between the pipe pieces? i know that stuff is used for connecting electronics like repairing wires or connecting points on a board. isn't that stuff pretty soft? would it be able to resist 50lbs per square inch of water pressure that he measures for his faucet?
American Videos about are always quite interesting to me as a Professional heating Planner from Switzerland, especially how short the life expectancy for some appliances are.
Like, we commonly expect the hot water tanks here to last at least around 20 years if not more (sometimes up to 40) though it is also extremely rare to have them directly heated, as most are instead hooked up to the main heating system with a central heat source for both heating and hot water.
I've only experienced this type of system once here in the USA (and in Northern Minnesota, at that), and that was at a lakeshore house we rented in the offseason. Since the crawl space underneath the house was not insulated, nor were the hot water pipes for heating, it was VERY expensive to heat that place during temperatures in the -20 to -30 range (both in Fahrenheit and Celsius)! But we always had hot water! I applaud having a system like that, for the sake of using the heat twice. But unfortunately so many places in the USA use forced-air heat instead of hot water heat.