2019 Honda Super Cub C125 // First (early) Oil Change // Gold Plug MP-01
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 มิ.ย. 2024
- The Super Cub gets its first (early) oil change today at ~300 miles. I also installed the GoldPlug magnetic drain bolt to give extra protection. This is a long video, so you can use the chapter markers below to skip around.
GoldPlug MP-01: amzn.to/3imvht7
These small Honda engines don't have oil filters (although this one has a centrifugal spinner to separate particulates), and they don't have very much capacity (0.8qt), so the oil becomes contaminated fairly quickly. I like to change the oil early during break-in and then again every 1500-2000 miles thereafter. The oil was getting dark and had some solid contaminants in it, but it seemed to be in good condition overall.
I installed a GoldPlug magnetic drain bolt (MP-01) while I was in there, so we'll see if it catches anything in the sump. There is a screen above the plug, so some of the larger particulates will likely be above that screen and retained in the oil spinner housing instead.
The next service will be done by the dealer at ~600 miles, so I won't be able to inspect the magnet on the end of the plug during that maintenance. All of the subsequent changes will be done at home, so I'll keep tabs on how effective the GoldPlug is in the Cub's sump (below the screen). The GP captures lots of ferrous sludge in all of my other bikes, so I know they are helping to keep those abrasive particulates out of my oil.
Time indexes:
0:00 : Background on my reasons for the early oil change
3:35 : Oil drain bolt location, DON'T MESS with the second bolt (cam chain tensioner)
5:15 : Draining the oil, the color is dark but not too bad
5:42 : Servicing the Cub is really easy, plenty of ground clearance
6:30 : Comparing the seated lengths of the OEM drain bolt vs. the GoldPlug MP-01
8:40 : Checking drain bolt clearance with a soda straw depth gauge
10:59 : Torquing down the new drain bolt to 18 ft-lb
12:59 : Refilling the crankcase with 0.8qt of Honda GN4 10W-30 oil
16:40 : Verifying the oil level with the sight glass on the crankcase
16:55 : Brief crankcase overfill discussion
18:02 : Inspecting and lubricating the drive chain
18:40 : Notice some scuffing on the side cover from my boot
20:45 : The master link appears to be painted/sealed in place
22:30 : Inspecting the oil for debris and other contaminants
25:55 : GoldPlug discussion... two-thumbs-up recommendation! 👍👍
--
QM
quasimotard@gmail.com
#honda #supercub #goldplug
2019 honda super cub c125a
Gold Plug MP-01
Gold Plug MP01 - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
I had an HRZ for 17 years. The motor never quit, replaced the transmission twice and belt around 12 times. For the third transmission failure, removed the transmission and self propelled feature. Built-in workout every week!😅 Always oil change and new air filter at the beginning of the season.
The second bolt is for the timingchain tensioner.
accidentally pulled this one today when giving my supercub its first oil change. spring and drilled 'piston' slid out. Went back together without issue.
Hey, thank you for letting me know
Even though you made this video in 2019, the information is still useful and the presentation is great! Thank you!
Very thorough job. Well done bro. Cheers from Canada
Really good video - Seeing how easy it is I'll do mine when due too.
Many thanks, very informative. Got the same model and colours here in the UK.
I just did my 300 mile oil change. Your vid was mighty helpful.
Excellent video -- content, length, videography, sound, organization (!!!) and helpful link. Well done !
Really appreciate the attention to detail. Thank you
Thx for the feedback! 👍 --QM
Thanks Quasi...very helpful!!
Glad it was helpful! I didn't have the service manual at the time of recording this maintenance, so I wasn't sure about the second bolt on the close (left) side of the lower crankcase. That is the cam chain tensioner bolt, so you don't want to mess with that one unless necessary. The owners/operators manual doesn't give any specifics on the procedure, so I just went with what I knew to be accurate on the drain bolt location. I have the service manual now that gives all of the other detailed procedures and specs, so there isn't any more guesswork. 😉👍 --QM
Thanks for your great Supercub videos! I have a 2020 on the way!
Thanks for the feedback, and congratulations on your new Cub! Cheers! 👍 --QM
@@QuasiMotard Thank you and keep up the good work!
Awesome video! Thank you for the tips!
Thanks for this video dude!
Glad to help! 👍 --QM
Enjoyed seeing the new Cub info and ride along. I still have a 1968 Cub 50. Needs to be restored, still runs and starts on 1 st or 2nd kick!
Thx for the feedback! Wow, a '68 Cub 50...Nice! If you aren't riding that little beauty, then you should restore it and get out on the road! The Cub is such a pleasure to ride... it's no wonder that Honda has sold over 100M of these bikes. It's a shame that the roads here in the USA are so fast/busy and people have such large distances to travel... I think that's why small bikes aren't nearly as prevalent here as they are in other countries. --QM
Well done 👍
This guy is So good... I'm just surprised he didn't have a funnel cleaner for the funnel... :)
You' That pavement is hard on the knees!'
Me: 'We must have the same OLD MAN disease?'
Yep, lack of sufficient cartilage in my joints and too many years of motocross injuries. Kneeling down on hard surfaces hurts now... getting old sucks! 😉👍 --QM
Good job ! ... Regards Honda's friend :)
Really great video. Bought a new 2020 super cub only have 150 miles so far. dealer said to bring it in for service at 600 miles but I'm going to do oilchange at 300 and get the gold plug then bring to dealer at 600 miles. Your video was very helpful. THANK YOU!
Thx for the feedback, and I'm glad that the video helped! The bolt for the timing chain tensioner was a new one for me, so I'm glad that I didn't mess with that. Doing maintenance before the service manuals are available is always a bit tricky. The GoldPlug has been working surprisingly well in the Cub despite the screen right above it. There is always some ferrous sludge on the magnet when I change the oil. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
@@QuasiMotard I'm going to get oil today and new drain plug and order manual. I was wondering what that other bolt was for. Won't be messing with that either! Thanks so much for your help really appreciate it. Safe travels my friend!
Thanks for filming this, I know it can be a pain. I believe the other bolt under your bike is the cam chain tensioner. Leave it alone! Your bike is beautiful and I love the idea of using the clear bra on the side cover. Keep it coming.
Thx for the feedback! I heard from another viewer/commenter that the second bolt is the cam tensioner... so, that's good to hear another confirmation. I should receive my shop manual sometime this week so I'll have a good mechanical reference. --QM
Awesome video man. I saw a 2023 cub brand new for just under $3000 in Bama. May just have to go get it
Your calipers have a depth feature on the bottom. You can place the bottom of the calipers against the end of the bolt and extend the caliper until you hit the head. Same goes for measuring the depth of the of that screen in the oil pan. Great informative video, just thought I'd offer some tips
A (free) bit of kit I find very useful is a sheet of cardboard. I always keep several sheets in my garage as they always come in, either just to lie on, especially in the cold months but also to soak up drips of oil etc when working on a machine. They have the capacity to absorb small amounts of oil and other spills and the added advantage of being a light buff colour, so it is easier to spot washers and fasteners when they try to do a runner.
Honestly for a first break in, that's not bad at all! I'm impressed. Sure it would be great to not have any metal in the oil at all, or a filter to catch that, but we can't have it all.
Glad I rewatched this.
I've only recently completed a full rebuild of the engine on my Wave which is very similar internally to the C125..
Since that was my first engine rebuild, the anxiety levels where up there. I haven't paid that much attention to the first oil changes on any of the bikes I own, thinking that it's a Honda. Now that this was done by me, of course I sifted through the oil and did earlier oil changes. I had a bit of panic, seeing a few tiny stripes of that crankcase silicone in, making me think I did a poor job and now my Engine is at risk of oil starvation.
Seeing that even the more expensive C125 exhibits similar pieces in its oil makes me a lot less worried.
So far I've done almost 500km (300mi) since the rebuild with the actual total clicking over the 80,000km. These are pretty reliable bikes if not abused too badly. Mainly look that they don't starve for oil as they can consume a tiny bit during fast cruising, which easily runs out with their small sump.
I recorded the first oil change for several of my smaller bikes, but I can't remember if I posted the videos or not. The surprising thing that I found in both of my PCX150's was fibrous material (like shredded wool gloves or something) and LOTS of silicone gasket material caught in the wire mesh filter. I didn't notice anything unusual except the extra gasket material in my Super Cub and CT125's first oil changes.
The GoldPlug MP-01 that I've installed in most of my bikes seems to work very well because they always have ferrous sludge and small chunks of metal on the magnet at every oil change. The amount of debris always seems to diminish as the engine ages, but that's a good thing... keeping that abrasive junk out of the oil should prolong the bottom-end bearings and transmission bits. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
That's another big relief!
On my second oil change that was 200km after the full rebuild I found a noticeable amount of fluff in the strainer.
It certainly gave me quite the anxiety for a while.
It probably came from Mircofibre towels I used when cleaning parts before assembly or from the clutches?. Though the PCx does not have a clutch in the engine.
If I had waited till the 1000km service, these particles would have probably migrated into the spinner.
The more I deal with these bikes, the less worried I am with these things. When I changed the oil at 4000km (last one before that at 3000), the also had a bit of fluff and a couple silicone flakes on the Gold Plug.
While that shows how dirty these engines are on the inside (especially when still quite new). It's relieving knowledge. These engines have a reputation for being very dependable in South East Asia where the step through's are used as true work-horses.
Like you mentioned about your high miler bike, my Wave 125i also kept shedding tiny metal particles into the Gold Plug until those 80,000km. Apart from that one bearing it was still mostly quite healthy, not burning unnormal amounts of oil, making good power,....
I actually suspect, that something I did earlier in the bikes life degraded the longevity of that bearing (chain too tight and not frequent enough spinner servicing).
There are so many sources of metal to metal movements which create those shavings that it's not something we should be surprised about:
Rings, Bearings (there are quit a few inside), gears as well as the timing chain.
- That chain stretch in your drive chain comes from the same kind of wear and if you ever put a magnet on the oily sludge in your drive chain guard you'll notice how much metal there is in it too :)
I was thinking that i will come here and ask you a question, that where is the drain plug. and here it is found your video. i bought this bike here in Cambridge UK after watching your video(so you brought joy in my life :). ). man i love it, this bike is fun and a half
I like your videos about your new Honda Supercub. You are a lot like me in maintaining your machine. So I thought I would give you two suggestions you may like. The first one the Fomoco oil drain plug. This company has many sizes and variations to fit any vehicle. This drain plug is installed like any other, but it has a lever on it to allow the oil to drain out when opened, and you simply close the lever when the oil is drained. No need to unscrew the plug. Also, it has a nipple so you can put a plastic hose on it to drain into a pan or jug, so there is no oil spillage. One other benefit is if you over fill your oil, you can drain a little out very easily to get the proper level. I have these on all my vehicles, and they work great!. The other suggestion is to keep a small notebook on your vehicle, and write down the date, mileage, and the maintenance item, or part you installed. This way, you can see quickly, when you last changed your oil, when you install a tail light bulb, or tires, and see how long these items last. It is a good system. I thought you might be interested. Thanks for making these videos.
I meant to say Fumoto oil drain plug.
Thx for the tips! I completely agree! I have used those on other machines in the past... they are GREAT! I have similar drains on my race GX-series Honda engines on my race karts... it makes draining the oil a 2-minute affair with no messy cleanup of the motor mounts. If there were a way to have the quick drain AND the magnetic pickup, then I'd do both. I'm not sure how well the GoldPlug will work on the Cub's motor because there is a screen directly above it (presumably part of the spinner/filter assembly). That filter might catch the metallic junk before the magnet can grab it... we'll see how it goes. These small motors don't have oil filters, so I always like to give them every extra chance to keep the abrasive bits out of the oil.
As for the maintenance logs, I do that religiously. I track all of my maintenance items for all of my machines in Evernote. If/when I sell any of them, I can export the notes and provide the history to the new owner. In addition to the electronic notes, I have a folder/binder on each machine with receipts, shop labor invoices, etc. Complete.Mechanical.OCD --QM
I ended up buying the same oil you used.
Good idea to remove the oil filler cap prior to draining the oil
You could always call the Honda Shop? Most are very helpful! When in doubt, use the one that came out!
Oil was dark for 300 miles, but not shockingly dark. Your video shows why it never hurts to change the oil every 300 miles or so for the first year of ownership. Indeed, there's no penalty or damage to changing the oil too often, except maybe to one's wallet, if money is an issue. Plus, God forbid, metal debris may all of a sudden accumulate. Better it is caught at 300 miles than 2000 miles, especially here in "high rev" country (aka steep San Francisco hills).
Absolutely! I don't mind spending a few extra bucks for early oil changes if it can prolong the motor's life. Oil is cheap, motors aren't. The Cub requires so little oil anyway... what's an extra $5.00 in the long-term? Honda recommends 4000-mile intervals, but that seems a bit long to me. So, I'll spend about $5.00 for changing every 1500-2000 miles instead... that's just cheap insurance in my book. --QM
I own two bikes already....a large V-Twin, and an air-cooled 750cc in-line 4. With gas in Canada nearing almost $6.00 CDN now, with huge yearly Carbon Tax rip-offs coming...I am thinking of buying this Super Cub, at 114 mpg, and tool around for all my basics, and leave my other two bikes and car at the house. I know this might sound crazy...but at 114 mpg (real usage reported by early adopters...), It wouldn't take too long to pay back, the $3,700.00 USF to finally own the bike for free and flat out. I predict that with gas currently nearing $4.00 in the States, soon seeing $7.00 and $8.00 per gallon is not too far fetched, for Canadian drivers/riders! The governments have gone crazy with current and always ready to invent taxes...and I don't roll my eyes, even thinking we could see a gallon of gas, climb to over $9.00 per gallon in the next four years....so, the Super Cub looks real good to me....really good! The only problem, for I called my local Canadian Honda Dealer...is that Honda Canada is NOT at this time...bringing Super Cubs C125's into the market. My dealer is quite outraged at this...for he said that I was the umpteenth caller phoning and asking about the bike....and all of us, were talking about the reported fuel economy. I think Honda Canada is simply INSANE, and not truly supporting their dealer network, in these trying times. Call in's are asking if this is in stock..and I can't imagine how the dealer feels when he or she, has to state that it is not even available in Canada.
Very useful
The bolt left one near the gearbox is for Timing chain push rod.
nice i to own a c3, i love that thing.
I’ve got to let mine warm up here in the upper Midwest,,,,,It sounds great take my advice I wouldn’t touch this exhaust! Like the way it sounds performs well,,,geared perfect! is it a kick to ride!
Inspector Gadget 😀👍
thanks for the thorough review plus the good tips! gonna get a goldplug for my wave 110. had a C3 as well, how does it compare?
Thx for the feedback! The Super Cub is in a completely different league because of the 125cc motor and larger wheels, of course. The surprising difference between them is in the fuel economy... I expected the C3 to be more efficient because of the smaller motor, but the Super Cub is actually MUCH more efficient (~115 mpg for the C3 and ~135 mpg for the Cub). I made a commute vlog on the C3 a few months ago that you might like: th-cam.com/video/sYSKZNlzuXQ/w-d-xo.html .
As for the GoldPlug in the Super Cub, it works better than I anticipated. I was concerned that the spinner screen just above the magnet might catch/hold more of the junk and keep it away from the magnet. However, I recently changed the oil again and inspected the magnet and found a significant amount of ferrous sludge and a couple of sharp shiny bits on there. So, the GoldPlug works, and I can definitely recommend it for Super Cub (and Monkey or Grom) owners. Cheers! 👍 --QM
Thank you, I loved your video. In 1 month I will receive a supercub 125 here in Denmark.
Can you help me and tell me the list of tools to change the oil?
What nanometric tool should I buy? and pressure do i use in europe for the screw of the oil sump?
If you can help me. Thanks
you have to be real lazy or incapable to hold a tool to let your mechanic charge you unnecessary money for a simple service for such a simple and fuss free machine. its so simple that you fall in love with it just for this very reason , pure motorcycling pleasure.
Agreed... I prefer to do all of my own maintenance anyway... at least I know that it has been done correctly. I will usually let the shop handle the first couple of maintenance intervals (e.g. required by warranty) so it's recorded on the VIN. After that, I do 95% of the work myself and document everything thoroughly (e.g. pictures, logbook, etc). It's surprising what you can accomplish with a factory service manual and a modest set of tools! However, I take my bikes back to the dealer for any recall items or heavy-lifting chores... tire replacements, engine/transmission work, etc. --QM
I went with the pro gn4 10w40 and will change over to 10-30 in the spring.
Again, I bought the Gold Plug for my Super Cub too, on watching your video it reminded me I had to buy that. Thanks gain for the heads up.
Update: Absolutely yes on protecting the beautiful surfaces of this unique bike. I'm careful with all my bikes and cars or vehicles, but I consider this limited edition Super Cub a museum piece. Like that one guy on TH-cam, I'm tempted to park this bike in my den and just look at it all day and night. OK, I'm just kidding, kind of. I got my bike with two miles on the odometer. One month later it shows 7 miles indicated. Did I mention I love this bike.
Anyway, I've taken a liking to "Bikers" products, a Company in Thailand who sells billet quality add-ons and accessories, made especially for the Honda 2018-19 Super Cub 125A. For example:
Bikers sells all kinds of different covers that customize, beautify, or protect the bike's surfaces, including where damage may occur, e.g., scratches inflicted by our shoes or boots when shifting or braking. Their products will protect better than bra material or tapes, which are simply too weak to protect the beautiful polished or machined surfaces from damage boot or shoe damage.
From Bikers or others I have bought "protection" covers. Yes, Bikers products are expensive, but when received them I was very pleased to see these add-ons comprised machined aluminum and quality hardened rubber. (Yeah, the downside is that I have spent about $1,000 so far, e.g., $240 rear rack, $400 on various covers from Bikers. Oh well, that's what pleasure is all about.
www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_odkw=&_ssn=bkk_classicbike&item=163537300726&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2046732.m570.l1313.TR4.TRC0.A0.H0.Xhonda+super+cub+2018.TRS0&_nkw=honda+super+cub+2018&_sacat=0
I thought about keeping my Cub as a low-mile showpiece, but then I changed my mind after riding it a few miles. Now, I plan to do the exact opposite... I'm going to put as many miles on this as possible over the next few years to see how it holds up mechanically. I'm curious to see how well the engine holds up with the kind of abuse that I dish out in my commutes and road trips (currently about 60K miles/year spread across multiple vehicles).
If all goes well with my schedule, I plan to take the Cub on the 2020 Scooter Cannonball Run ( scootercannonballrun.com ), which will be a coast-to-coast ride from Bar Harbor, Maine to Eureka, California... that's 10 days and ~3500 miles! However, the trip will be over DOUBLE that distance for me because I live in Houston, TX... so add 4350 miles (Houston, TX to CA, and then ME back to TX)... so that's ~7850 miles round trip! The whole trip will probably take about 15-17 days including the trips out and back from the race endpoints. Of course, I could trailer (or ship) the bike to/from the race endpoints, but where's the adventure in that?! --QM
Got a 2020 red/beige cub for xmas !!! Girlfriends 1st Motorcycle!!!
@Michael Kastner + @Cold Steel Truth l should buy my wife a RED one too! It will match/bookend the Blue on Blue 2019 coming soon! Wait a minute, she doesn't ride___ Heike has only been on the back of a scooter with me on my lsland home of Vis. Damn, think l should get it, anyways!
What do you think .... good ok ...bad? I'm thinking to get Cup or the Monkey.
The other bolt is the cam chain tensioner. The clutch also functions as the oil filter (centrifugal type oil filter), it can and should be cleaned out every 2500 miles or so.
Currently restoring a c50 super cub good old reliable tiny beast!
Yep! I did this first oil change before the service manuals were available here in the USA, so I only messed with what I knew from my son's little Honda CRF110F... it had a similar clutch and bottom case design.
Honda specifies 8000 miles for the oil spinner service on these newer Super Cubs. I waited until 15000 miles after I finished my Scooter Cannonball Run trip in 2021: th-cam.com/video/rYjO_8luido/w-d-xo.html . It was about 50% full of crud, so that cleaning was definitely overdue. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
Thanks for the video. I´m going to buy one of the nice Super cubs in the next weeks. Let´s see how big the discounts are when the weather turns to Autum conditions and if this has an impact at all... Greatings from Germany :-)
Thanks for the feedback, and greetings from the USA! Good luck with your shopping and upcoming Cub purchase. Cheers! 👍 --QM
Hi Quasi. I love your videos, I am taking my time watching the Cannon Ball Run episodes. Can’t help but admire your stamina and determination… that’s a giant adventure even on a big touring bike let alone a Super Cub !
Last week I bought a 2019 Super Cub with 25 miles, it’s immaculate, I now have 40 miles on it.
Question : Would you change the oil on it NOW, because the factory oil is 4 years old ?
Note , I’ll change it at 300 miles also.
I did siphon out the 4 year old gasoline, and put in Sta-Bil 360 (1 ounce), and a gallon of fresh Shell 91 octane.
I’ve owned Moto Guzzis and Harley Davidsons for 40 years and always did real frequent oil changes so I’m thinking maybe I should change this 4 year old oil with only 40 miles on it.
I’m leaning towards using the Honda 10-30 conventional oil like you and switching to Mobil 1 full synthetic like you at 1000 miles ?
I’d appreciate your opinion.
I’ll get the Gold plug too.
Thanks.
Congrats on your new-to-you Super Cub! The 2019 wearing the 60th anniversary blue color is the best looking, in my opinion. I don't think it's absolutely necessary to change that oil, but it couldn't hurt anything to do it as a precaution. Personally, I'd just wait until around 300 miles and change it like I did in this video.
I strongly recommend investing the extra $20 in a Gold Plug MP-01. Those things really work, and I always find ferrous sludge (and sometimes sharp chunky bits) on the magnet at every oil change... even at 15K miles. These engines don't have oil filters, so it's cheap insurance to prolong the engine's life before needing a rebuild.
I typically wait until around 1000-1500 miles to switch over to full-synthetic so the engine is fully broken-in. After the first 1K miles, I ran Castrol Power1 4T 10W-40 full-syn in my Cub for the next ~10K miles. However, I switched over to Mobil1 4T 10W-40 full-syn during my return from the Cannonball in 2021.
We noticed that our Cubs were steadily consuming/burning 125-200mL of Castrol per day at wide-open throttle (450-550 miles, 12-14 hours/day). When we switched over to Mobil1, the consumption stopped... not reduced... STOPPED. We didn't burn or lose a drop of oil from California all the way back to Houston. Something about the Mobil1 base stock is thicker or resists seepage, so it seems to run better in these little Honda 125's.
I also switched over to Mobil1 in my Trail 125 (CT125) during my 1600-mile trip to the Barber Small Bore Festival in 2022. Here is a link to the first episode of that adventure if you're interested: th-cam.com/video/xItNMZ--qSc/w-d-xo.html . The little CT125 burned through nearly 300mL at wide-open throttle during the first day of that trip... 720 brutal miles in 14 hours at wide-open throttle! Cheesr! 😉👍 --QM
@@QuasiMotard Thank you for the response so fast!
Yeah I really like the 60th colors the best of the 4 years of the Super Cub too. I’ll go ahead and wait until around 200 to 300 miles to change oil, and DEFINITELY install a Gold plug.
That’s amazing how your oil usage actually stopped when you switched to Mobil1. I’ve been using Mobile1 full synthetic in cars, trucks, and a motorhome along with NAPA Platinum, and Wix filters for about 5 years and real happy with Mobil1. I’ll switch to it for sure eventually.
I’ll definitely watch the Trail 125 video, I’m sure it will be interesting.
Thanks again, and safe travels to you. 👍😎
Hi Quas.. have you ever had to fix a stripped oil pan thread? Unfortunately, after my second Cub oil change, I inadvertently stripped mine (using MP01 plug) even before I could torque (plug was not getting tighter, which leads me to believe it may have happened after my first oil change (watched this episode a year ago). There's a couple of videos on YT that shows how to use a Thread Repair Kit to basically re-tap the threads and avoid replacing the oil pan unit which can probably cost a fortune. Any words of wisdom in this case? Much appreciated.
Ouch... I'm sorry to hear about your troubles! I've used Heli-Coil thread repair kits on cars and trucks in the past... anything from oil & transmission drain bolts to spark plug re-threads. However, I haven't done it on any of my motorcycles.
Most larger motorcycle engines have separate oil pans/sumps that can be replaced if necessary. Unfortunately, these small engines don't have a separate pan... the oil sump and drain plug bung is part of the engine's crankcase. That means repairing it with a new thread insert is the only way to salvage the problem without tearing the motor apart to replace one half of the crankcase.
It might be possible to re-thread for a larger diameter drain bolt, but I would leave that as a last-ditch effort. There isn't much extra clearance around the bolt head to accommodate a larger drain bolt, and removing too much metal from the thin lower crankcase might create more problems in the long term.
Good luck with the repairs, and keep us informed how you get along. I'd be very interested to see if/how a thread repair kit works on one of these little 125's. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
What about to use motul 7100 oil 10x40? is it big difference betwen 10x30and 10x40??? all vespas worls with 10x40...
A possible help for the top speed on the 15T drive gear. Something called dip stick tube vent(about $25). The kit has you replace the rip stick with this device. It does a great job of revieving crankcase pressure. That may be making a slight resistance for the piston - Just a guess. I think it just might give you the few mph you're looking for. It gave my Vespa a noticeable change for the engine - actually easier to start etc.
Thanks for the tip! I'll have to research that option to see if it would work for the Super Cub (Grom, etc). Cheers! 👍 --QM
I have a Chines 50 cc with GY6 motor (old Honda engine) scooter and change the oil , the manuell says 0,8 L but according to the dipstick wish is so hard to se it's to much but i am hoping it will be ok. I have used the scooter for 1 week and its looks all ok so far.
Really wanting one of these. 130mpg is amazing. How is the tire life? How many miles could one get before the engine is toast? Been looking at Vespas and PCX150's, Kymco... essentially a cheap commuter, but I don't have a M class license and it's a 3 day class that I dread which is why it hasen't happened yet.
Thx for the feedback! Those are good questions, but I don't have any hard data for the answers. These are my observations and opinions based on my first couple months and ~1K miles of ownership...
First, there is tire life... I would expect very good mileage on these based on the fact that the Cub is not very heavy and not very powerful. I have ~1K miles on mine already and the tires still look completely new. If I had to guess, then I'd say ~8-10K miles for the rear tire and 16K+ for the front. These tires are very inexpensive at only $25-35 each and the labor to do it will be minimal in comparison to a scooter (the Cub has a traditional rear wheel, axle, chain & sprocket instead of a single-sided splined axle, and no need to remove the muffler either).
Secondly, regarding the engine longevity... that is up for speculation because this is a new motor design. It's a Honda, so it should last forever with basic care and maintenance. I do know that the older Cub's based on the 70-110 cc mill have been reported to easily last in excess of 40K miles with only basic, routine maintenance (the bike usually suffers a fatal road incident long before the motor quits). The engines are simple in design, and the top-end can be rebuilt on the side of the road if necessary. I would expect this new motor to last as long (or even longer) with the same care... just change the oil frequently and keep the valves adjusted. The top-end of this motor is based on the newer Grom (MSX-125) power plant, so maybe there are some high-mileage stats out there on the web that we could use to gauge the long-term reliability of this engine.
Lastly, comparing the Cub to scooters... I own 2 PCX150's and I really enjoy them. In terms of practicality, a scooter will beat the Cub hands-down because of the built-in storage and ease of operation. The acceleration on the PCX150 (or any 150-class scooter) will handily outrun the Cub, but the top speed is roughly the same at ~62-64 mph. The 150-200cc class scooters (e.g. Kymco, Vespa, Suzuki, Yamaha) will obviously go faster than that, but efficiency will fall off quickly as the engine displacement (and road speeds) increase. That's one of the really strong points of the Cub... efficiency. There are lower driveline losses because of the chain drive and no CVT/belt (friction, slip, etc). I have seen as high as 145 mpg from my Cub (riding normally and not being overly nice to it), where the PCX150's best is ~120 (under ideal conditions and moving under 45 mph).
In terms of ride quality and fun factor, the Cub definitely beats my PCX150's all day long. The larger wheels and tires really smooth out the bumps and track better than the smaller 14" wheels on the PCX... high-speed cornering is also much better on the Cub for the same reason. The seating position on the Cub is less flexible and a little less comfortable than the PCX... the scooter has floorboards that allow random foot placement, and the seat is longer and wider for more comfort. However, those are minor points for someone that is of average height... someone over the 6' mark would find either bike to be a little cramped.
In the end, you really need to determine what your expectations are for the bike. If you need to travel above 60 mph for extended periods, then the Cub isn't the best choice for the job. Similarly, if you are a larger rider (e.g above 6' or over 220 pounds), then a scooter or small motorcycle with a 150-200cc engine would be a better choice. If those caveats don't apply to you, or if you are looking for extreme efficiency, then I don't think there is any other bike currently sold in the USA that can beat the Cub's efficiency. Even the Honda Grom and Kawasaki Z125 Pro fall behind the Cub's stats, and they have much worse road manners due to the smaller wheels/tires. --QM
Hey man How often do you suggest to change the oil un a 2020 Supercub? I just did my first oil change at 500 miles.
I always change the oil on my small bikes every 2K miles. The Honda owner's manual says 4K miles, but I think that's a bit long. These bikes only hold ~1 quart of oil and they don't have traditional oil filters. Oil is cheap, engines aren't! I'd rather change early and often to be sure that I'm not grinding up anything important in the crankcase ( th-cam.com/video/jk0E51XPD34/w-d-xo.html ). Cheers! 👍 --QM
Thanks for yet another great video!
Question: If there is a screen above the gold-plug, separating it from the main sump area... wouldn't any detritus be blocked from the magnet by the screen?
I had assumed the same thing, but I was surprised to see how much ferrous sludge was built up on the magnet during my last couple of oil changes. There were even a few larger, shiny slivers of metal on there, so it appears that the GoldPlug is still able to perform a valuable role in cleaning the oil. The magnetic plug is cheap insurance, IMHO... it certainly doesn't hurt to have it installed. I'm particularly interested to see how much debris is caught in the oil spinner and screen area. I'll be sure to video and share that procedure when it happens. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
@@QuasiMotard Excellent reply. That all makes sense. Nice feeling to know that the magnet is there doing its duty.
But I'm still confused...How does the debris above the screen, ever get emptied/removed?
Thanks
@@justkeepinitrealyo The oil spinner and debris screen are a maintenance item that needs to be performed every 8K miles, per Honda's guidance. The right-side engine cover must be removed, followed by the oil spinner assembly and other related parts, cleaned out, and then reinstalled with a fresh cover gasket. I don't anticipate that the procedure will be difficult, but it will probably be tedious and very messy. 😉👍 --QM
@@QuasiMotard Got it! Thanks.
Where did you find a service manual for 2019 Honda super Cub?
I ordered my manual through Honda's referral link that goes out to HELM, Inc: www.helminc.com/helm/product2.asp?Make=AHC&Model=C125&Year=2019&Category=1&class%5F2=AHC&mk=Honda+Motorcycle&yr=2019&md=C125A&dt=Shop%2FService+Information&module=&from=result&Style=helm&Sku=61K0G00&itemtype=N . Note this is the "official" Honda service manual, so it has the same info that the dealer would use to service the bike. 👍 --QM
What was the other bung with the copper washer for, you reffered it to a service item ,?
That second bolt with the copper washer is the timing chain tensioner. It can be removed without any serious repercussions, as long as it's reinstalled correctly before the engine is turned over or started.
Some Grom and SC owners have mentioned that they pull that bolt out during oil changes to drain some additional dirty oil that accumulates in that bore hole. Removing and reinstalling that bolt can also reset tension on the timing chain idler wheel, which could potentially benefit engine longevity... dunno... maybe? Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
Hey quasi have you started using full synthetic yet? I have about 3000 miles on my cub and I was wondering when I should switch to full synthetic. Hope all is well buddy thanks again for all of your videos 😁😁
Howdy! Yes, I switched over to Castrol Power1 4T 10W-40 full-synthetic a long time ago. Adrian and I noticed that we were consuming a lot of oil during the Scooter Cannonball Run... about 150mL per 500 mile day in the highways. We switched over to Mobil1 4T 10W-40 full-syn, and the consumption disappeared.
We don't know if the difference was due to different riding conditions (e.g., altitude, temperature, engine loads, etc), or if the Castrol 4T was just too thin. 😉👍 --QM
Was that a Spyder I spotted at around the 12 minute mark?
Close... it's a Can-Am Ryker Rally 900 sitting under the gazebo. I have several videos about that bike on my channel. --QM
@@QuasiMotard I was tempted by a Ryker but I prefer the storage on my F3Ltd. Considering a Super Cub to replace my Piaggio MP3 for commuting. Enjoying your videos on the SC!
Thx for the feedback! I like the Ryker, but I've had lots of little issues with it, and the alignment issue (tail-wag and won't track straight at highway speeds) makes me hesitant to recommend it to people. I have to be in the right mood to ride it and not be annoyed. I have 15 other bikes in the stable right now, and none of them have bad road manners like the Ryker. Anyway, the Super Cub is a treat to ride... it's not really a long-distance steed, but it's certainly capable of that if pushed into that duty. I took it on a ~350 mile trip to Austin, TX for the MotoGP races at COTA last weekend... it was a lot of fun to ride up there and back. --QM
@@QuasiMotard I've copied your Ryker videos to a UK Spyder/Ryker facebook page, should boost your views hopefully! :)
@@ZedTee190 Thx for the bump! I have a lot more Ryker videos to edit and upload... I'm lagging behind with work and family tasks over the past couple of weeks. I am also tentatively planning to ride the Ryker to the annual Spyder gathering in May... still need to find the specifics and solidify the plans. That should have the makings for a fairly epic roadtrip video series... the ride up, motocamp for the entire event, and the ride back... ~1500 miles or so. 😉 --QM
6:58, you can use tail of the caliper for measuring depth
Yep, I thought of that after the video. I was trying to keep everything in frame and simple for the video's sake (it's hard to know what the GoPro "sees" after the screen shuts off). I didn't want to use the tail when checking the depth inside the oil drain hole, though... no sharp metal poking around in there blindly. When I used the straw and saw that there was plenty of clearance (over 1/8"), then I didn't bother following up with a precision measurement. Cheers! 👍 --QM
Yes, they do have an oil filter. The clutch drum is a centrifugal filter.
Agreed, but it's not a traditional oil filter. The oil "spinner" on these bikes requires a cleanout (overhaul) every 8000 miles, and that procedure requires the removal of the engine side cover, oil spinner assembly (with a special tool), and fresh gaskets (side cover gasket and new O-rings for the spinner seal). The procedure isn't as simple as replacing or cleaning a traditional filter, so many owners might not be inclined (or able) to do it at home. --QM
Great video, however I have a question. Do you change the oil every 300 miles ?? I have a 2018 C 50, that I just bought, and I m kind a beginner. Thanks
Thanks for the feedback! This was just the first early oil change. Honda's maintenance schedule for the Navi is 600 miles for the first oil change and every 2500 miles after that.
I typically change the oil early in the first 300-600 miles to get the abrasive junk out of the engine. Then I change the oil every 1500-2000 miles for these small engines because they don't have oil filters. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
@@QuasiMotard Thanks for your feed back ! I tought that it must be changed so often.. 2000 miles seems ok. Take care and have a nice ride. Cheers from Romania
hi, video suggestions
1. Iridium plug, MPG /throttle response /dyno?
2. Amsoil scooter oil or shell 5W-40 scooter oil
I plan to replace the spark plug after a few thousand miles, so I will replace that with an Iridium plug when the time comes. Unfortunately, I don't have the fancy equipment for a dyno run, but Cycle World has done that for us already: th-cam.com/video/TEEMlIHn1bg/w-d-xo.html . I haven't decided on the synthetic oil that I will run in this motor after the first 1000 miles, but it will probably be Castrol 4T full-synthetic or maybe LiquiMoly. I track my fuel mileage for my bikes carefully, so maybe we'll see an improvement when I switch over to synthetic.
I haven't tried the Amsoil or Shell scooter oils yet. Do you have any experience with them to know if they have any benefits over other 4T syn oils? That might be a good test for the guy at Project Farm: th-cam.com/channels/2rzsm1Qi6N1X-wuOg_p0Ng.html . He does all kinds of really excellent test/comparison videos! --QM
Where did you get those handlebar mirrors?
Those are the CRG Hindsight LaneSplitter mirrors. You can source them from many online retailers including Amazon. Here is a list of the items that you'll need:
Part numbers and links to the CRG mirrors:
Qty 1: CRG Hindsight left mirror (Part number: HSLS-200-L): amzn.to/2SihYzt
Qty 1: CRG Hindsight right mirror (Part number: HSLS-200-R): amzn.to/36qYjp7
Qty 2: CRG bar-end adapter (Part number: 0641-0013): amzn.to/2HJcgo2
Cheers! 👍 --QM
Would it helped to drain the “ other plug fluid” the one you think is for the transmission? Or is that another video?
That is the cam chain adjuster, so DON'T mess with that one! I didn't have my shop manual when I made this video, so I was careful not to touch anything that I wasn't sure about. The Cub's transmission is a traditional design that shares the engine oil supply in the crankcase. 😉👍 --QM
What would be the consequence if the other bung was undone by mistake?
@@raybrown86 yes what would be the “consequences “ of that?
That second bolt with the copper washer is the timing chain tensioner. It can be removed without any serious repercussions, as long as it's reinstalled correctly before the engine is turned over or started.
Some Grom and SC owners have mentioned that they pull that bolt out during oil changes to drain some additional dirty oil that accumulates in that bore hole. Removing and reinstalling that bolt can also reset tension on the timing chain idler wheel, which could potentially benefit engine longevity... dunno... maybe? Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
@@QuasiMotard - Oh !
It does have an oil filter. it's on the right side on the motor, I got mine changed today on my 2023 super cub. I also thought it didn't have.
The 2019-2021 Super Cubs had the old engine design that didn't have a cartridge-type oil filter. The 2022+ models have the newer engine design from the Grom & Monkey with an oil filter. 😉👍 --QM
Oo ok thanks for clarifying,
With regular maintenance, given that it's a honda, that thing should last a very long time!
I'm on the 3rd oil change now (last changed at 1500 miles), and I switched over full synthetic (Castrol Power1 4T 10W-40) this time. I just returned from a 450-mile motocamping trip and ran the Cub at 55-60 mph the whole way there and back. I was curious (concerned) to know how it would behave at wide-open throttle for hours at a time. It hasn't burned or leaked a drop of oil... still at exactly the same level as when I filled it. It's a Honda! 😉👍 --QM
Luggy cold start, mine does that too. But it idles up when it's very cold. I use at least 91 octane gas as well
Yep, it seems to be a common issue with the new Super Cub's. I took mine in for the dealer to check out and they asked Honda about it... nothing "abnormal" as far as they are concerned. I noticed that my friend's Cub (Adrian) also does the same thing. It's not really a problem for me... I just baby it for the first 10 seconds after cold start to make sure it keeps spinning. Cheers! 👍 --QM
@@QuasiMotard it's not a problem for me either. I dunno maybe it being an older style engine but updated management, that first start just needs coaxing sometimes. I switched upper octane and it has not idled off on first start. I dunno. I like my bike alot. I just noticed the spot on your video about the luggy start and I was like..me too! Lol
Hey Quazi. Ive owned 22 model for about 5 month and put in about 4k miles on my cub. My oil consumption is been crazy from day one owning this thing. 150ml every 150-200 miles. I change oil every 1000k due to hard wot riding every day in any weather. Did you have oil consumption issues with your year/ model?? Thank you!
Howdy, Ivan! The oil consumption for your 2022 model sounds like an issue for your dealer and Honda warranty to check out ASAP! It sounds like the piston rings might not be indexed correctly, or perhaps a crankcase ventilation issue is causing too much blow-by.
During our 10K-mile 2021 Scooter Cannonball Run trip, we noticed that our Cubs were consuming about 100-150mL per day... 500 miles at wide-open throttle on the highway. We topped up the oil every night for the next day's ride, and then we changed the oil every 2-3K miles during the trip. They don't seem to mind the abuse, and they never skipped a beat.
We switched our oil from Castrol Power1 4T 10W-40 to Mobil1 4T 10W-40 just before our 2000-mile return trip to Houston. We noticed that the oil consumption nearly disappered after changing the oil brand. The operating conditions were still the same as before... brutal wide-open throttle runs for 8+ hours/day. I only needed to add about 75-100mL after that return trip.
Good luck sorting out your Cub's oil issue. Let us know how it turns out and if Honda needs to repair something under warranty. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
@@QuasiMotard I have contacted dealer and will be dropping it off in few weeks. But like anything else dealer is not very receptive to my concern. I have worked on many bikes myself. But for once in my life decided to use the warranty. If dealer dont resolve issue ill be tearing top end myself and rebuilding. It is not that expensive or complicated. Just takes time.
Hello, in the user manual, it says that it is best to have this operation (oil change) made by an expert mechanic.
Do you think is it okay if I perform it by myself ?
The Super Cub is probably the easiest bike to change oil out of all the bikes I've owned (120+ over 40 years). This older 2019 Cib doesn't have an oil filter, so the change is literally just a drain and refill with 850mL of oil. 😉👍 --QM
The manual is freely available as a pdf online.
I was wodering should I go to the dealer for my first oil change at 600 miles? I can do it myself but I guess my question is is it critical to resale value to have it dealer serviced?
I don't think it makes any difference whether it's dealer or owner serviced. The critical issue is really about warranty coverage... if the dealer does the service, then it's recorded on the VIN for warranty purposes.
I do all of my own service on my motorcycles after the initial check-up. I take pictures of the mileage, the parts, and receipts as proof of service. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
@@QuasiMotard Thank you... Great idea re photos of odometer etc!
I know the manual recommends 10W30. I used 10W40 synthetic changing at 450 miles because that's all I could find easily here in Ireland. From what I researched the only difference will be that the 40 holds up better in higher temperatures. I guess I should really have waited a bit longer in line with what you say about bedding in, but on the other hand I'll be only doing low speeds as a new rider.
What would be the reason for replacing the factory bolt? Really nice video, thanks for sharing.
The GoldPlug has a neodymium magnet on the tip of the bolt, so it catches ferrous debris in the oil and holds it until you clean it off during a maintenance period. This helps to keep those abrasive particles out of the sump, so it should aid longevity of the engine amd transmission. Keep in mind that the Super Cub doesn't have a traditional oil filter, and it only holds 0.8l of oil... that's a small volume of oil, so it can become contaminated quickly.
I always find lots of metallic sludge and some sharp particles stuck on the magnet at every oil change. That tells me that the magnet is doing its job! Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
@@QuasiMotard cool, thanks man.
How is the super cub holding up? Thinking of getting one.
The Cub is doing great! It's past the initial break-in miles now, so I can comfortably push it a little harder and take it for my normal work commutes. The fuel economy is amazing so far... the last 2 tanks have returned 140+ mpg! It gets thumbs-up, waves, and smiles everywhere it goes... it's a real conversation starter. --QM
Hi handsome. In this video, at . 37sec. You have 1 tri and 1scoot. What brand is it and will you be talking about it? I would like to know if you have a spread sheet on your cannonball run 2021? I'd like to hear you talk about it. Thanks
Good eye! The reverse-trike that you see is a 2019 Can-Am Ryker Rally. You can find my Can-Am Ryker video playlist here: th-cam.com/play/PLLXxDh3JumLmDGc1YAaEqpwdmCGLLll2b.html ).
The scooter is a 2007 Yamaha C3. I haven't made many videos with it, but here are a couple if you're interested: th-cam.com/video/sYSKZNlzuXQ/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/lM6BtkjsNgU/w-d-xo.html . Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
I have been using regular motor oil in my cub, not motorcycle oil. Do you think that's a mistake, or is oil, oil?
The Super Cub does require JASO- MA rated oils because of the wet clutches in the transmission. You can use either traditional petroleum-based oil or synthetic, whichever you prefer... just be sure that it has JASO MA or MA2 ratings and no "energy conserving" classifications. 😉👍 --QM
I started to do my first oil change, drained all the oil but then got called away- and left the ignition switch in the on position. The battery is dead. Any suggestions on how to get the battery out without power to get to it?
Sorry to hear about the mishap! You will need to remove the battery cover in the center of the leg shield area under the front of the seat. Be careful removing the center cover because there are several fragile tabs on that panel that might break off. You can watch my disassembly video here for some pointers: th-cam.com/video/k1ri2ZEX9JI/w-d-xo.html . After you have the center cover removed, then you can clip jumper cables or a jump box to the battery terminals to get it started. Good luck! 👍 --QM
Aren't there shorter gold plugs you can buy? Do you know the length of this one?
The GoldPlug MP-01 is the correct plug for these engines. The manufacturer didn't have them listed in their catalog when I made this video, but it's a very common drain bolt size for Japanese bikes. 👍 --QM
Maybe a rubber band gasket to keep the plastic inspection plug snug for the chain inspection port?
I don't know if that would interfere with the other bits... clearances and such. I haven't lost it yet, so it appears to be ok for now... although I did order a spare just in case this one falls out. --QM
Hi,
What size os gold plug 12,14 16?
1.25 1.5 1.75?
Thanks.
I installed the Gold Plug MP-01 (17mm head): amzn.to/3wUITnw . The plug dimensions are M12 x 1.5 (16.75 mm length seated depth). You can see the full measurements in my Honda Navi oil change video: th-cam.com/video/CfnLLFgqiKk/w-d-xo.html (skip to 4m 26s). Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
Where did you get your mirrors?
Those are the CRG Hindsight LS (lane splitter) mirrors. You can watch my install videos here th-cam.com/video/CS1vyNmvzmg/w-d-xo.html and here th-cam.com/video/3h0DozndoJU/w-d-xo.html . The product links are in the video descriptions for quick reference. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
I saw there was a Honda C3 there. Can you please see something for it?
You have a keen eye, sir! That is a 2007 Yamaha C3 XF50 scooter that I've had for several years. You can find a couple of other videos on my channel that feature that scoot:
th-cam.com/video/sYSKZNlzuXQ/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/lM6BtkjsNgU/w-d-xo.html
Cheers! 👍 --QM
Great video, I like the way you have been so thorough. I do however think your bike sounds a bit lumpy....it’s missing a bit. The Cubs normally run like a sewing machine. It’s maybe worth looking at the spark plug.
Thanks for the feedback! The new Cub has a bit of a lumpy idle and the exhaust note is quite deep and mellow for a little 125cc motor. I just picked up my new Trail 125 (CT125 Hunter Cub) a few days ago, and its exhaust note is lumpier (but quieter) at idle. Stay tuned for the Trail 125 unboxing and first ride videos coming in a few days. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
@@QuasiMotard excellent I will look forward to that!
What does the manual say the max load is?
The USA model's load sticker on the swing arm states "234 pounds". I'm sure that the bike is capable of carrying much more than that because the Asian markets are available with a passenger seat and footpegs. The USA model is restricted from passenger duty because the rear footings are on the swingarm instead of a fixed point on the frame... the same DOT regulations that forced the ugly turn signals on us. --QM
So is typical “break in” oil just dino as opposed to synthetic, so that as you said to help seat the rings?
Exactly. I've always used standard petro/dino based oils for the first ~1000 miles in my street engines, and the first ~10 hours on my off-road 4-stroke bikes. The rationale behind that idea is that most synthetic base stocks are too thin and/or slippery to allow for proper bedding of the reciprocating parts (allowing too much blow-by or insufficient "polishing" of the mating surfaces).
After that break-in period is done, then I'll switch to a high-quality full-syn oil for the remainder of the engine's service life. I don't run extended OCI's (oil change intervals), even if the engine or oil manufacturer recommends it. Oil and filters are cheap, so I change them early and often... no more than 3K miles between changes for larger motors and 1.5-2K miles for smaller ones. I've had several car/truck engines that have turned over 350K miles using this routine with zero oil-related issues; similarly, I've had 3 different high-mileage bikes that have turned over 150K, and many others in the 50-75K mile range... all with zero engine issues. Suspension, steering head bearings, driveline, starters, gaskets, frames, and other things have failed... but the motor still looked nearly new inside. --QM
Wouldn't a screen keep metal particles in the crankcase?
The screen is below the "spinner" assembly, so it acts as a semi-permanent filter in the crankcase to catch larger debris. That screen is scheduled to be cleaned every 8K miles along with the spinner assembly. The GoldPlug also seems to catch quite a lot of debris in the oil because it's covered with gray, ferrous sludge every time I change the oil. I'll be sure to video the spinner change maintenance when I tackle that job sometime soon. Cheers! 👍 --QM
S trick is to weigh the used oil then weigh the new oil to check difference.
See if u can fit a l.e.d lite bulbs to save overloading altenator.
Oil weights would likely be different because of evaporation and slight differences in the fill levels. I've done 2 additional oil changes since this one, and everything looks really good so far! The GoldPlug magnet has caught a significant amount of ferrous material both times, so it appears to work in the Cub's sump. All of the lights on the new Cub are LED's, including the driving lights that I added to it later (Denali DM, 5W/each). Cheers! 👍 --QM
@@QuasiMotard generally when engine is new there will be a bit of metal coming off the timing sprockets, chain etc. Oil changes are great especially when it involves wet clutch plates. Dont skimp on good oils and make sure the correct oils is used for the seasons and climate. Amsoil (pay for a kit and become a dealer...brilliant company) Repsol, Eni Agip, Motul, Penrite and Castrols are all great dedicated brands for motorcycles. I find manufacturer in house brands is generally "fill" for the company for profit). I have came across with the Maxxima brand that says A.t.v etc but has no a.p.i ratings which we gave up on.
You mention that the 2nd oil change should be done by a Honda dealer, what mile should the 2nd oil come at? And why should the second oil change be done by the dealer, do they do other checks? Thanks for videos, they help.
That's a good question! Just a point of clarification: Honda's service schedule states that the first service is due at 600 miles, but I always do it early to reduce the runtime of that first dirty oil. So, my Cub's second oil change was technically the first scheduled service. It's not absolutely necessary for a dealer to do that first service, but it certainly helps in case of any warranty issues (e.g., proof that the service was done according to schedule).
The 600-mile service interval is just an oil change, but many dealers also check the valve clearances and spark plug at the same time. Subsequent service intervals for oil and valve clearances are at every 4000 miles (6400 km). If you're interested in the full service schedule, you can download a copy of the owner's manual here: cdn.powersports.honda.com/documentum/MWOM/ml.remawmom.2019_31k0ga00_cub125a_supercub.pdf . Cheers! 👍 --QM
Look for the german Kellerharrer Bolt 12 x 1,5
Your owner's manual does not show which drain bolt is for the engine oil?! Strange.
Any more content upcoming. Miss it.
Howdy, Rob! Yes, I'm planning to edit and upload more footage this weekend. I dusted off the editing station a couple of days ago and started digging through my backlog of video to see what's still relevant or usable. I haven't been riding much in the last couple of months, but I have lots of queued-up stuff from late last year before my busy season started. Thanks for hanging in there and for the encouragement! Cheers! 👍 --QM
1. Had you run the engine to warm up the oil before draining? This helps to pick up sediments.
2. Does this engine have a hollow flywheel that gathers grit and sediment internally by centrifugal force? Access to that might be in the right hand side of the engine.
3. Within the enclosed chain case, does the crankcase breather vent warm oil fumes onto the chain?
4. Had the magnetic drain plug been too long, one or two washers may have cured that. The magnetism will still gather ferrous particles.
Courtesy of Half Vast Flying.
Yes, the engine was already warm from riding. These engines (same used on the Grom 125 and Monkey 125) have an "oil spinner" (centrifugal particle filter) on the right side of the engine. The maintenance interval for the spinner is every 8K miles, and it requires two new gaskets (side cover and spinner face gasket) because those usually tear during disassembly.
The chaincase is just a dust cover and chain guard. There is no lubrication system for the chain. The crankcase breather on these bikes is fed back into the airbox as a part of the emissions system. --QM
@@QuasiMotard Thanks for your response. I understand the chain cover, breather, and centrifugal filter. On my 1960 (or maybe a bit earlier) Honda 50cc, the breather came out between two teeth of the front sprocket. Really slick.
Wen lubing a roller chain, the only place that will accept oil is at both ends of each roller - in between the roller end and the side link. And, the only fraction of that lube that does any good is the itty bitty bit that seeps into the internal joint of the pin and roller. All the rest of the lube is just messy waste, On my pedal bike, I use a small, plastic bottle with a pointy spout capable of delivering only one drop at a time, one on each end of each roller.
What a chain benefits the most from, is oil of a low viscosity being applied so that it seeps into that pin (axle) joint inside of each roller. BUT - once the oil is inside of that joint, then it should be a higher viscosity. The oil flows around the pin so that, as each roller comes up onto the first drive tooth of the drive sprocket, the oil is squeezed back by stronger tension on that part of the chain. It acts as a little hydraulic shock absorber link after link.
A way to get that “at first thin, then thick” oil, is to select the oil that you want to lube the chain with. One half fill a plastic squeeze bottle (that has a one-drop-at-a-time nozzle) with that oil, then top it off with gasoline. Mix it up. This thins out the oil. Apply a drop of thin oil to the roller ends all the way around. I have to put in a twisty like on bread wrappers to mark the start-stop point. Then slowly run the chain around more times than you think you should have to, to work it in. Then, let the gasoline evaporate a couple of hours. Sitting in the sun and breeze helps that. Again, slowly run the chain around a few times. Then, with one hand full of paper towels and loosely gripping the chain, run the chain some more to clean off the outside of the chain. Don’t worry - NONE of the oil on the outside of the chain is doing you any good. It slings off onto your bike and clothes. ONLY the oil on the internal pins is benefitting your chain.
Frankly, most riders won’t go through that whole process. They would rather buy more chains, sprockets, and clothes. That’s OK, because it’s good for the economy.
Courtesy of Half Vast Flying.
How do you clean and lube the chain with the chain guard in the way
I lube the chain through the check hole in the lower chain cover every 300-500 miles... and also check the chain slack at the same time. It's easy to lube the chain with the extended straw on the can... just dribble the spray at the lowest setting to lightly coat the inner side of the rollers and plates. The chain guard comes off easily with only a couple of 4mm Allen bolts, so I pull the cover off to degrease and re-lube the chain every 1500 miles. The whole process takes about 10 minutes, a drip catcher (flattened cardboard box), and a couple of shop rags... plus the tools and chemicals, of course. 👍 --QM
@@QuasiMotard it's crazy seeing this bike in CONUS. I remember seeing it all over the Philippines. Have you seen the new hunter cup? Wish Honda will bring it over. I'll for sure get one
@@docfmf8404 Yep, I'm ready to rush over to my dealer and drop the cash for the CT125 Hunter Cub as soon as it's announced for the US market! I owned a Trail 90 and Trail 110 as a teen back in the early 80's, and had great fun on those bikes. They were nearly indestructible and they would go anywhere you pointed them. I plan to get the new CT125, strap some camping gear and spare tires on the rear rack, and take it on the TransAmerica Trail (www.transamtrail.com/) for a few weeks. 😉👍 --QM
Nice video...wee bit OCD though!!
Where can i get a magnetic drain plug for a 2019 suzuki dr200s?
The GoldPlug MP-05 (goldplug.com/shop/mp05/) is a fit for your bike based on the part number cross-reference (Suzuki P/N: 09247-14026). It is the same plug as used in the Suzuki TU250X. You can find the MP-05 on Amazon here: www.amazon.com/Gold-Plug-Magnetic-Drain-MP-05/dp/B000JWVCU6 , or just search other online resellers in your area to see if you can find a better price. Cheers! 👍 --QM
@@QuasiMotard Thanks a bunch for your helping kind knowledge!!👍
Minarel yag mi yoksa yari sentetik yag mi koydunuz
Motorun alıştırma döneminde her zaman geleneksel petrol yağı kullanırım. 1500 kilometre civarında üçüncü yağ değişiminde tam sentetik yağa geçiyorum. Şerefe! 😉👍 --QM
Why did you have the change the bolt? Did I miss something?
I usually install the GoldPlug magnetic drain bolts in most of my bikes. The Cub might not benefit as much from the magnet than other bikes because it has a screen right above the magnet. The Cub also has an oil spinner (centrifuge that separates oil contaminants) instead of a filter, so hopefully it will keep the metal sludge from circulating in the motor. I have a couple of other videos on the GoldPlug in action. Here is one that shows how much junk it catches: th-cam.com/video/rtzWq5X3dc4/w-d-xo.html . --QM
Hey dude, I'm a recent cub owner, 2020 brand new. I would love advise and conversation about care and maintenance. Im 25 and this is my first "bike". So far I have 109 miles on the cub. Thank you in advance✌🏼
Congrats on your new Cub, and welcome to the world of motorcycling! Most Honda's (the Cub in particular) are very low-maintenance bikes. While the bike is still new (under ~600 miles), you want to take it easy on the motor and transmission by using moderate throttle and shifting as smoothly as possible. This will help with the engine and transmission "break-in" and it should prolong the life of the drivetrain.
After the initial maintenance is complete at ~600 miles, you will want to change the oil every 2000 miles or more frequently. This is a topic of debate because the Honda owners and service manuals specify 4000-mile intervals. These engines don't have oil filters (just a centrifugal spinner) and they only hold ~1 US quart (~1 liter) of oil. My mechanical sympathy kicks in and won't let me run that heat-baked, dirty oil in there for more than ~2K miles. My rationale is this: oil is cheap, engine rebuilds aren't. 😉
Another item that you shouldn't neglect is chain maintenance. The Cub has a chaincase that keeps most of the road grit away, but you should still lubricate it and check the tension/slack every 300-500 miles. This is a quick process that only takes about 1-2 minutes. You can use commercial chain lube/wax or common 75-90W gear oil to lubricate the rollers. Chains are relatively cheap for these bikes, so strict maintenance and oiling isn't a huge money-saver; however, you certainly don't want the chain to bind or break prematurely (e.g. rolling down the road in traffic... that could be a Bad Thing).
Beyond that, normal washing and routine inspection of the bike will be a simple way to keep your Cub on the road for many years. Typical automotive car wash soaps work just fine, and you can use old bath towels or wash mitts to do the washing (something non-abrasive because the paint and plastics on these bikes are soft). Pro Honda Spray Cleaner and Polish ( www.amazon.com/HONDA-08732-SCP00-Spray-Cleaner-Polish/dp/B004FSEJZA ) is great stuff for waxing and polishing the bike after a wash or whenever you just want to give it a quick "dry" bath.
IMPORTANT NOTE!!!: NEVER use ArmorAll or other "tire shine" products on your motorcycle tires... that is a Very Bad Thing. The silicones and shine agents bind with the rubber and can make the tire very slippery. Many riders have dumped their bikes going around the first few corners after using tire shine.
Good luck, and congrats again on your new Cub! Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
@@QuasiMotard Very cool. Thank you for the thoughtful reply! Unfortunately my break-in experience has been a tad rough, due to inexperience. I will be following all of this advice, there aren't many resources for these new models yet. Glad to hear some direction. Take it easy, man ✌🏼
mine does the same thing with the start thing it’s normal
It’s normal to have a Minuet amount of shaving’s in a new motor oil change.
Agreed! That's why I always try to change the oil early and also install magnetic drain bolts to keep the abrasive bits out of the sump. 😉👍 --QM
Hi, what size is the Goldplug?
The model number is the MP-01. I believe that the dimensions are 12mm x 1.5mm pitch, with a length of 17mm. The factory drain bolt is 12 x 1.5 x 15mm. The Gold Plug's extra length is due to the magnet, but it doesn't cause any clearance issues in the engine sump. 👍 --QM
@@QuasiMotard
Thank you very much!
Love your channel!
@@QuasiMotard
BTW I just ordered the plug MP-01, did you ever find bits of steel on your plug when you change your oil? Thanks again👍
Yes, I have always had lots of ferrous sludge and usually some small metal flakes on the magnet at every oil change! I have several of those oil changes recorded, but I haven't posted all of them yet. Maybe I'll make a compilation video with all of those videos to show how effective the GoldPlugs are. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
27 fluid oz is the amount of oil for a change.
Courtesy of Half Vast Flying
Great video, makes me want to buy a Super Cub! BTW it is super dangerous and a total accident waiting to happen to have the motor run to lube the chain. A total no no in any book. Also, the chain lube will not be nearly as effective as lubing it while you are turning the wheel in neutral. I doing it this way you are spraying chain lube into the air, hitting the chain occasionally. Count yourself lucky you have not had an accident or lost a finger or two doing this.
For what it's worth the centrifugal clutch on these bikes means that it's only barely engaged when the engine is at idle speeds.