I'm not an expert but I watch all the Florida boys and the Colorado boys religiously. I am pretty certain I have heard both Brent and Kyle say more than once that they can run five to six hundred HP safely on a stock k-series. Personally I would talk shop with Kyle and get his input. He knows where the safe and reliable zone end and where the grenade zone begins.
Im pretty sure they usually says that around 450hp is a safe number and above that you are pushing it But its the torque that kills them so if you map them with as low torque as possible down low the hold up fine
My vote goes to built motor and smaller turbo. That "oopsie" on the dyno is probably what killed the last one. And I bet the oversize turbo had something to do with it. I don't want to blame the tuner, but it did get away from him.
Over sized turbo is actually safe than a baby turbo ( responsiveness) if the k series gets a lot of boost at a lower rpm it is prone to damage , but the larger turbo can make a lot of boost which can be a problem as well there should be a happy medium between the two
I wouldn't presume to tell you what you should do, but I can tell you what I would do (and I've been in pretty much similar situations). The problems are: 1) if you go to a smaller turbo, it will be more responsive, and will make boost at lower RPMs, which will increase cylinder pressure (torque), and will pretzel your rods even quicker. 2) if you put in your built bottom end this soon, you really risk messing it up from not having sufficiently tested out your custom oil pan's ability to keep your engine supplied with oil in a wide enough range of conditions, or at high enough acceleration rates like you'll see with the higher thresholds allowed by the built bottom end. With those things in mind, I for sure would grab another $800 JDM engine, and slap in some forged rods and pistons (whatever the Honda equivalent of eagles and wisecos is) before slamming it back in the car, and then work on developing the whole package at higher threshold levels, WITH the current turbo in place. Only when I had logged oil pressure in pretty much every conceivable condition, and really sorted out my tune and whatever other teething pains there are related to boost control or god knows what else, would I move over to the built engine. The ideal situation is that you actually don't blow up the piston rod engine, and you're left with a decent spare afterward. Whatever you do, good luck, and it will be fun to watch the videos! :)
Gotta make sure to have adequate boost control no matter which direction you go. I'd still want to see more data logs of oil pressure under acceleration to verify before putting a higher priced motor so I would stay with a stock motor and make sure no other bugs.
Built motor, smaller turbo. Talk to Brent about what other parts should be upgraded. I remember when he helped with the swap in fasterproms smart car he had Jeremy replace a bunch of little stuff. Definitely have Brent tune it as well. Kater tot lived at 550whp for a while.
Id put the built motor in because the platform would be great with. Fast and reliable. More importantly, id GET A NEW TUNER, and make sure the built unit doesnt become a third paper weight. Thanks for the vids.
Upload your the config file from the ecu and a log from driving it. If the boost controller has the same numbers over the whole range, get another tuner. You need less timing and boost when the engine makes the most cylinder pressure . Cant tune a stock engine like a built engine. The turbo is NOT to big
Damn ben you almost did as good of a job as Jamie did when he blew his engine in half. BRO GET ANOTHER USED JDM, A SMALLER TURBO AND LEARN ABOUT WHAT YOU GOT BEFORE YOU PUT A $4,000 BLOCK IN THAT BABY. We're rooting for you brother! Love your channel.
Shake down the built block with a smaller turbo and stock head-cams. That will be safe at a broad 500 hp, make sure everything else is solid, then put the built head and play with big turbo. New build could use a couple month shake down, and it will show you to enjoy and learn the car.
I think sending it on the dyno didn’t help this motor may have damaged a ring or piston . No offence to your tuner but two motors have now died under him. Maybe talk to tuning by Nick or some one more suitable for a k series He built pretty much the same car with a lower spec k series and beats on it at close to 500 unopened He might be able to remote tune it or at least tell you where it’s going wrong Also that stock sump is not baffled to suit a rwd application Is your engine lean setup to keep the sump level as it was stock ? Not saying it’s your issue but it probably could lead to another
Get in contact with ‘tuning by Nick’ in the Toronto area (Canada). He has his own TH-cam channel, built a Honda powered Porsche and drove it all the way to Florida, to see the Boosted Boiz. He will surely have some good advice for you. I personally would suggest a built block with a mild turbo.
Get another long block. Get an appropriate sized turbo to give you 400wheel at peak hp. Gap your rings. And go to a tuner that specializes in boosted K series. Ask them questions on some things you can do to make reliable power. If your goal is a reliable 400wheel a GARRETT G25-660 54mm .72A/R would be an amazing fit. Running 1 bar of boost on a k24 would be in the 77% efficiency island for that turbo from peak torque to peak HP. And it won't surge at low rpm at all. Will start building boost around 3k rpm and hit target 15psi by 4k. And will hold 15psi all the way to redline.
@@baysidefabrication Haha true. We may disagree about what engine belongs in the back of a 996 but I have respect your skills. Good luck with whatever you decide 👍
Yea I hate to say tuner, if it was a built motor I think your buddy could do it. The people like PFI and Humble know the torque limits of the bottom end. Same in the diesel world for me, I can make crazy power but the key is limiting the torque ramp in. (I'm no expert just my opinion on the matter.)
This is just my opinion the dyno session injured the motor next i’d do a small build like stronger valve springs retainers and rods everything else leave stock n keep it tuned properly at around 450whp
Get another stock one and put H beam rods in it and unless you get one with previous issues it should hold up to 600 HP without a built head or any other major changes. In doing this you are not risking the built block which obviously cost you enough to warrant taking precautions that you really want to do but are afraid to because of issues you are experiencing. Isn't finding and fixing these issues without risking the built block why you are where you are now? Please just think about the possible results of going both ways before you make up your mind and talk to the people you know who are pushing these motors to the limits.
Dont risk the built motor until you can make a cheap motor last at least 5k miles if I was you I would 1.Get a another stock K24 + Regap the piston rings for boost+ fit Eagle Conrods with stockk pistons + fit a turbo rated to 500 bhp+ fit an Accusump and Oil cooler as well as an oil pressure gauge+ fill it with 1 extra qt of oil + run it on wastegate pressure with a few T's until you sort your boost issue it might be your waste gate location and not the Mac 4 port solenoid
Have you thought about a k20 instead of the k24 that's what Kyle is running in the mr2 now he said something about less rotating weight and the k20 did last longer than any of the k24s.
Not sure how helpful but you can't be running around 3% wastegate DC, whether it is the controller or the turbo size causing it. You need to get it within a sensible range and get the boost properly under control. 3% is way too touchy. Even cold air in the morning or cold day would be enough to start making it go over and you don't have anything left to pull out at that point
I`d like to see a full teardown on engine nr 2 to figure out why it grenaded. Did it drop a valve, or was there a ring-gap issue that caused a piston to shatter, did it hydrolock after pushing the headgasket/lifting the head?
@@baysidefabrication I`m about to do so.. your upload time was in the middle of the night for me, and I have to be up by 6 in the morning. left an early comment to help your channel/algorithm
Is oil level correct? Had a guys with a BM swapped K that kept popping motors...he had the motor at a way different angle than the stock FWD location. Added 1.8L more oil and it stayed alive...perhaps this is your issue?
I’m a TH-cam expert, from my excessive experience of watching people blow shit up, I think you need some better rods and a tune that demands less torque. I think you already know about the oil starvation issues.
I’d be careful calling your built motor indestructible, oil starvation can kill any motor. Get yourself a solid reliable setup before you go big. Stand on the shoulders of giants and get some advice from those who have learned the hard way. You seem to like learning everything for yourself which is admirable but sometimes you need guidance when you’re at a cross road
Baffled oil pan, smaller turbo with a stock motor till its dialed. then put in the built block for the peace of mind. Just my thoughts on your question. Dont lose hope.
Since you already have it, I would go the built motor. Just because the engine is rated for 900 HP doesn't mean it won't be lovely at 600 HP. As for the turbo, if you can reliably control the boost and it doesn't feel too laggy, then your turbo is not too big. As for your head, if you polish the combustion chambers and throw in a set of valves and your good to go. Now, whichever way to decide to go, I wish you good luck. You're certainly due for some.
😂 chill girl rings probably butted with that big hit on the dyno cracked a piston and finally let go. Def not an oiling issue bearings would have been hurt 😘
If it died after the dyno, aka street driving, you need a baffled oil pan. Oil is being pushed to the timing chain cover via g-forces, Which is pulling oil away from the pick up.
I'd say what most others are. Go built block, smaller spooly boy and have Brent and Kyle in your pocket. Data log for a while and keep a stern boost cut and fail-safes. Maybe get those injectors flowed as well. Egt sensors wouldn't be a bad idea too. The more data you have, the safer she'll be.
If it were me, I'd probably opt to throw the built bottom end in the car with a well-sorted head. (Stock cams/port would be fine, just upgrade the valvetrain.) Keep the current turbo, but ditch the 4 port and run dual 3 port solenoids. A smaller turbo would light up much faster down low. More low-end torque in a grip-happy RWD chassis would put more stress on the bottom end. (Regardless if it's built or not.) Just stick with the current turbo and most importantly, GET THAT BOOST UNDER CONTROL! A head with upgraded valvetrain, a set of good headstuds, and two 3port boost solenoids is a lot cheaper than another STOCK engine, a smaller turbo, and two boost solenoids. (And you wouldn't have to modify any of your existing piping.) Plus, the torque curve of the current turbo would be MUCH safer on your built engine, assuming you get the boost controller situation sorted. That's my vote buddy.
All new performance valve,spring,retainer, new guide, new seat... U good to go for the cyl head... But oil pump porting also highly recommended... About 350-400whp is where u want for 100% stock engine unopened... With piston and rod with spring+retainer, then it will be good for about 600-700whp mark... But boost control strategy need to come late.... Keep the same turbo..but bigger exhaust housing
Use built motor smaller turbo 6264 1.0 Exhaust housing good for about 800 hp Use Mac 3 port Controller And that Porsche G97 transmission should hold up to about 1200 hp
I have never played in this world of honda 4cyl, but watched a bunch of youtube around them. I would go one more used block, smaller turbo and tune the motor so the torque doesn't come in at a low enough rpm to damage stock rods. Then just drive the thing around 375-400hp for awhile and enjoy the fruits of all your labor and $$$. I believe that would be somewhere around 100 more hp than the stock engine put out. Can't quite remember what it was. 400hp in this would make a great rip around town rig! There is more testing to do with this setup than just how long a block will last. After all this i really want to see you drive the thing and get some enjoyment out of it. Soldier on! Don't give up on it yet! Love the channel!
After watching the video: Put in the built block and treat it as if its stock. Fix the head you have, fix the boostcontrol issues, retune (add overboost safety?) and enjoy the car without risking breaking driveline parts for now. I think most of your observations are dead-on, so having the built internals without pushing them hard, and proper boostcontrol gives a lot of extra security that it wont blow up anytime soon.
Smaller turbo like a 6262 or 6264 on a stock engine for awhile it a great way to dial everything in without going crazy. Also may I suggest maybe using a k20 for the stock engine. The shorter stroke really helps keeping them together since they just don’t make that crazy torque when the turbo lights up.
You want a fun daily not big HP so I’d say smaller turbo, another stock block. Better waste gate management. Talk to boosted boys and get their input. Still have to remember you’re a great welder not a car builder so get the input from the car builders. Look at the smart car build video. James and Brent questioned the placement of the waste gate. None of this is to knock you down, you do some awesome stuff but it doesn’t hurt to ask for advice from the people who do this daily.
Have anyone succseeded to put a K-engine in a Porsche and make it last? Can the fact that the engine is positioned backwards from it usual position have anything to do with it? I would not put a $4000 built engine in the car before i aktuell know from my own experience that a K-engine can live in that car.
That turbo is not too big for any K series. Just run a 3 port, toss the built block in, and baby step your way to where you're happy. Also, stock transaxles will do better with larger turbos over smaller ones because it's the torque onset that's going to kill the drivetrain.
I know this is a lot more work... But I think Build one more budget engine. Use the parts and setup that you want for your built engine. Get comfortable with controlling the boost and how the engine responds to changes. Even if you keep the power output on the low side. The time spent tweaking and adjusting and thrashing on the engine will help you out in the long run. Then put the built engine in and have the dual tune setup. Again that is a lot of extra work. But in the long run it might save a lot of heartbreak and cash.
I don't know how good a stock motor with defcon in its sleeves will hold up , it works for J series motors, , maybe you can run cheap upgraded pistons ( I'm not sure one might get them for cheap )with the stock rods ( k series rods are stout) or build a motor with just defcon in the sleeves and all the other possible preventative measures to make a k series more capable that it already is
its the trials and tribulations of modifying vehicles mid-range power is what breaks these motors unless the boost went through the roof and cracked a sleeve...
You already have the built block, I say use it. Selling it can be difficult. No offense to your tuner, but lets have Brent or someone tune it this time.
Could this have something to do with the oil pan?? Tons of K’s make the same and more power than you and hold together. I would hate for you to delete your built engine immediately
What kills Ks is torque… especially on a stock bottom end. Whatever you do, you must either mitigate the torque limits with parts or stay below them. Ask Kyle. He’s got plenty of experience with this problem. Also, you never said whether or not you gapped the rings to handle more boost. No matter which way you go that’s a must. If you go back and watch Kyle’s MR2 videos you’ll find that he switched from K24 to K20 because he was grenading K24s because he was making more torque than they could handle.
Just scrolling through, I don't see any mention of data logging and fuel system. 5000 rpm 2 guys plus boost, did it go lean and detonate? My bet is detonation, cracked the piston and the rest was collateral damage.
@@seanthompson6720 IKR and they have hookups that get them on the right road to at least save themselves as much grief as possible. And they know what oil pan to use. The hatch motor lasted a long time till he 2,3, 2d it.
I think your engine got hurt when on the dyno in your last video. Your turbo is too big and all these k motors need attention when switching position due to oil feed setup. Did you tear into the old motor to see what caused a second one to blow up? Wish you all the best...and wrap your exhaust. I can imagine that these pipes can glow red when pushed hard. You do not want heat that close to your motor. I think you need to figure out what is happening, because if something external you can hurt a built block also?!? Third time will be the charm!!! Good luck!!!🙏👍
I would say to put in another stock block and tune it properly, then go with the big motor , cuz you have to get used to the car and it will help you develop your swap kit more
I'm not an expert but I watch all the Florida boys and the Colorado boys religiously. I am pretty certain I have heard both Brent and Kyle say more than once that they can run five to six hundred HP safely on a stock k-series. Personally I would talk shop with Kyle and get his input. He knows where the safe and reliable zone end and where the grenade zone begins.
Jeremy had his smartcar tuned to 530 or more on a stock block , but that was running it at the limit
Im pretty sure they usually says that around 450hp is a safe number and above that you are pushing it
But its the torque that kills them so if you map them with as low torque as possible down low the hold up fine
My vote goes to built motor and smaller turbo. That "oopsie" on the dyno is probably what killed the last one. And I bet the oversize turbo had something to do with it. I don't want to blame the tuner, but it did get away from him.
Over sized turbo is actually safe than a baby turbo ( responsiveness) if the k series gets a lot of boost at a lower rpm it is prone to damage , but the larger turbo can make a lot of boost which can be a problem as well there should be a happy medium between the two
I think that 4 port boost control was to blame for the overboost, it's way overkill for a stock block low boost setup
I wouldn't presume to tell you what you should do, but I can tell you what I would do (and I've been in pretty much similar situations). The problems are:
1) if you go to a smaller turbo, it will be more responsive, and will make boost at lower RPMs, which will increase cylinder pressure (torque), and will pretzel your rods even quicker.
2) if you put in your built bottom end this soon, you really risk messing it up from not having sufficiently tested out your custom oil pan's ability to keep your engine supplied with oil in a wide enough range of conditions, or at high enough acceleration rates like you'll see with the higher thresholds allowed by the built bottom end.
With those things in mind, I for sure would grab another $800 JDM engine, and slap in some forged rods and pistons (whatever the Honda equivalent of eagles and wisecos is) before slamming it back in the car, and then work on developing the whole package at higher threshold levels, WITH the current turbo in place. Only when I had logged oil pressure in pretty much every conceivable condition, and really sorted out my tune and whatever other teething pains there are related to boost control or god knows what else, would I move over to the built engine. The ideal situation is that you actually don't blow up the piston rod engine, and you're left with a decent spare afterward.
Whatever you do, good luck, and it will be fun to watch the videos! :)
Bottom line, SBE life is over-rated! Lol.. Even for development processes.
Gotta make sure to have adequate boost control no matter which direction you go. I'd still want to see more data logs of oil pressure under acceleration to verify before putting a higher priced motor so I would stay with a stock motor and make sure no other bugs.
Built motor, smaller turbo. Talk to Brent about what other parts should be upgraded. I remember when he helped with the swap in fasterproms smart car he had Jeremy replace a bunch of little stuff. Definitely have Brent tune it as well. Kater tot lived at 550whp for a while.
Id put the built motor in because the platform would be great with. Fast and reliable. More importantly, id GET A NEW TUNER, and make sure the built unit doesnt become a third paper weight. Thanks for the vids.
Upload your the config file from the ecu and a log from driving it.
If the boost controller has the same numbers over the whole range, get another tuner.
You need less timing and boost when the engine makes the most cylinder pressure . Cant tune a stock engine like a built engine.
The turbo is NOT to big
Damn ben you almost did as good of a job as Jamie did when he blew his engine in half. BRO GET ANOTHER USED JDM, A SMALLER TURBO AND LEARN ABOUT WHAT YOU GOT BEFORE YOU PUT A $4,000 BLOCK IN THAT BABY. We're rooting for you brother! Love your channel.
Shake down the built block with a smaller turbo and stock head-cams. That will be safe at a broad 500 hp, make sure everything else is solid, then put the built head and play with big turbo. New build could use a couple month shake down, and it will show you to enjoy and learn the car.
Finish the built motor for sure. Seems like that turbo would be great on it.
I’m no Honda guy but I watch boosted boys and PFI, those are your experts talk to them and make a informed decision.
Whatever you do, it will be entertaining . Looking forward to the next episode already. Good luck and God speed.😇
I think sending it on the dyno didn’t help this motor may have damaged a ring or piston . No offence to your tuner but two motors have now died under him. Maybe talk to tuning by Nick or some one more suitable for a k series
He built pretty much the same car with a lower spec k series and beats on it at close to 500 unopened
He might be able to remote tune it or at least tell you where it’s going wrong
Also that stock sump is not baffled to suit a rwd application
Is your engine lean setup to keep the sump level as it was stock ? Not saying it’s your issue but it probably could lead to another
Both your engines died while driving. Try another cheap engine again but make sure it’s getting oil under acceleration.
Get in contact with ‘tuning by Nick’ in the Toronto area (Canada). He has his own TH-cam channel, built a Honda powered Porsche and drove it all the way to Florida, to see the Boosted Boiz. He will surely have some good advice for you. I personally would suggest a built block with a mild turbo.
Get another long block. Get an appropriate sized turbo to give you 400wheel at peak hp. Gap your rings. And go to a tuner that specializes in boosted K series. Ask them questions on some things you can do to make reliable power.
If your goal is a reliable 400wheel a GARRETT G25-660 54mm .72A/R would be an amazing fit. Running 1 bar of boost on a k24 would be in the 77% efficiency island for that turbo from peak torque to peak HP. And it won't surge at low rpm at all. Will start building boost around 3k rpm and hit target 15psi by 4k. And will hold 15psi all the way to redline.
Smaller turbo, stock block and give it some time to work the bugs all the way out
Porsche makes a flat six that fits perfectly in the back of a 911.
It doesn’t make big horsepower but it’s reasonably reliable and sounds great 👍
I could go thru 5 more motors before I touch the price of a 100k mile m96.
@@baysidefabrication Haha true. We may disagree about what engine belongs in the back of a 996 but I have respect your skills. Good luck with whatever you decide 👍
Yea I hate to say tuner, if it was a built motor I think your buddy could do it. The people like PFI and Humble know the torque limits of the bottom end. Same in the diesel world for me, I can make crazy power but the key is limiting the torque ramp in. (I'm no expert just my opinion on the matter.)
You need to have kg Garage build your next motor!
Get a K20Z3 and then prevent oil from going to the chain cover side on acceleration.
Do you already have low oil pressure ignition cut? High HP get extra trans axles. Make it a solid runner and sell it.
This is just my opinion the dyno session injured the motor next i’d do a small build like stronger valve springs retainers and rods everything else leave stock n keep it tuned properly at around 450whp
Get another stock one and put H beam rods in it and unless you get one with previous issues it should hold up to 600 HP without a built head or any other major changes. In doing this you are not risking the built block which obviously cost you enough to warrant taking precautions that you really want to do but are afraid to because of issues you are experiencing. Isn't finding and fixing these issues without risking the built block why you are where you are now? Please just think about the possible results of going both ways before you make up your mind and talk to the people you know who are pushing these motors to the limits.
Have you/will you port the internals in the oil pump? It helps prevent cavitation at high rpm
Dont risk the built motor until you can make a cheap motor last at least 5k miles
if I was you I would
1.Get a another stock K24 + Regap the piston rings for boost+ fit Eagle Conrods with stockk pistons + fit a turbo rated to 500 bhp+ fit an Accusump and Oil cooler as well as an oil pressure gauge+ fill it with 1 extra qt of oil + run it on wastegate pressure with a few T's until you sort your boost issue it might be your waste gate location and not the Mac 4 port solenoid
Have you thought about a k20 instead of the k24 that's what Kyle is running in the mr2 now he said something about less rotating weight and the k20 did last longer than any of the k24s.
My vote have tuningbynick do your tuning and get yourself a built motor
I just never would use a crank that bent chunked a rod unless it balanced out. Just me though
Not sure how helpful but you can't be running around 3% wastegate DC, whether it is the controller or the turbo size causing it. You need to get it within a sensible range and get the boost properly under control. 3% is way too touchy. Even cold air in the morning or cold day would be enough to start making it go over and you don't have anything left to pull out at that point
Yeah. That was almost certainly the root cause.
@@baysidefabrication not to rubbish anyone but the tuner should know better IMO..
I`d like to see a full teardown on engine nr 2 to figure out why it grenaded. Did it drop a valve, or was there a ring-gap issue that caused a piston to shatter, did it hydrolock after pushing the headgasket/lifting the head?
You did t watch the video
@@baysidefabrication I`m about to do so.. your upload time was in the middle of the night for me, and I have to be up by 6 in the morning. left an early comment to help your channel/algorithm
Is oil level correct? Had a guys with a BM swapped K that kept popping motors...he had the motor at a way different angle than the stock FWD location. Added 1.8L more oil and it stayed alive...perhaps this is your issue?
28lbs of boost was the problem.
Use the built engine with the new mods and upgrades
Get another stock engine and turn it down with 3 port and smaller turbo
I’m a TH-cam expert, from my excessive experience of watching people blow shit up, I think you need some better rods and a tune that demands less torque. I think you already know about the oil starvation issues.
An eBay turbo might be a good shout until you go big
I’d be careful calling your built motor indestructible, oil starvation can kill any motor. Get yourself a solid reliable setup before you go big. Stand on the shoulders of giants and get some advice from those who have learned the hard way. You seem to like learning everything for yourself which is admirable but sometimes you need guidance when you’re at a cross road
Also, you got your ecu second hand, is that definitely working properly? (I can’t remember how you are doing boost control)
Shit Happens!! YOLO!! Grab you sack and send it!!
LS
Built block👍
Baffled oil pan, smaller turbo with a stock motor till its dialed. then put in the built block for the peace of mind. Just my thoughts on your question. Dont lose hope.
Since you already have it, I would go the built motor. Just because the engine is rated for 900 HP doesn't mean it won't be lovely at 600 HP.
As for the turbo, if you can reliably control the boost and it doesn't feel too laggy, then your turbo is not too big. As for your head, if you polish the combustion chambers and throw in a set of valves and your good to go.
Now, whichever way to decide to go, I wish you good luck. You're certainly due for some.
Its amazing how many engine professionals there are that are willing to arm chair diagnose your stuff.
😂 chill girl rings probably butted with that big hit on the dyno cracked a piston and finally let go. Def not an oiling issue bearings would have been hurt 😘
So many experts out there man!!!!
Built motor
You need ring gap on those things with the boost you where pushing 500hp a bit to much 🤘🏻
If it died after the dyno, aka street driving, you need a baffled oil pan. Oil is being pushed to the timing chain cover via g-forces, Which is pulling oil away from the pick up.
If it was oil starved the bearings would have been compromised. The motor hit 25psi+ and the rods let go.
I'd say what most others are. Go built block, smaller spooly boy and have Brent and Kyle in your pocket. Data log for a while and keep a stern boost cut and fail-safes. Maybe get those injectors flowed as well. Egt sensors wouldn't be a bad idea too. The more data you have, the safer she'll be.
Call Brent & Jamie.
If it were me, I'd probably opt to throw the built bottom end in the car with a well-sorted head. (Stock cams/port would be fine, just upgrade the valvetrain.) Keep the current turbo, but ditch the 4 port and run dual 3 port solenoids.
A smaller turbo would light up much faster down low. More low-end torque in a grip-happy RWD chassis would put more stress on the bottom end. (Regardless if it's built or not.) Just stick with the current turbo and most importantly, GET THAT BOOST UNDER CONTROL!
A head with upgraded valvetrain, a set of good headstuds, and two 3port boost solenoids is a lot cheaper than another STOCK engine, a smaller turbo, and two boost solenoids. (And you wouldn't have to modify any of your existing piping.) Plus, the torque curve of the current turbo would be MUCH safer on your built engine, assuming you get the boost controller situation sorted.
That's my vote buddy.
All new performance valve,spring,retainer, new guide, new seat...
U good to go for the cyl head...
But oil pump porting also highly recommended...
About 350-400whp is where u want for 100% stock engine unopened...
With piston and rod with spring+retainer, then it will be good for about 600-700whp mark...
But boost control strategy need to come late....
Keep the same turbo..but bigger exhaust housing
Use built motor smaller turbo 6264 1.0 Exhaust housing good for about 800 hp Use Mac 3 port Controller And that Porsche G97 transmission should hold up to about 1200 hp
I have never played in this world of honda 4cyl, but watched a bunch of youtube around them. I would go one more used block, smaller turbo and tune the motor so the torque doesn't come in at a low enough rpm to damage stock rods. Then just drive the thing around 375-400hp for awhile and enjoy the fruits of all your labor and $$$. I believe that would be somewhere around 100 more hp than the stock engine put out. Can't quite remember what it was. 400hp in this would make a great rip around town rig! There is more testing to do with this setup than just how long a block will last. After all this i really want to see you drive the thing and get some enjoyment out of it. Soldier on! Don't give up on it yet! Love the channel!
After watching the video: Put in the built block and treat it as if its stock. Fix the head you have, fix the boostcontrol issues, retune (add overboost safety?) and enjoy the car without risking breaking driveline parts for now. I think most of your observations are dead-on, so having the built internals without pushing them hard, and proper boostcontrol gives a lot of extra security that it wont blow up anytime soon.
Smaller turbo like a 6262 or 6264 on a stock engine for awhile it a great way to dial everything in without going crazy. Also may I suggest maybe using a k20 for the stock engine. The shorter stroke really helps keeping them together since they just don’t make that crazy torque when the turbo lights up.
You want a fun daily not big HP so I’d say smaller turbo, another stock block. Better waste gate management. Talk to boosted boys and get their input. Still have to remember you’re a great welder not a car builder so get the input from the car builders. Look at the smart car build video. James and Brent questioned the placement of the waste gate. None of this is to knock you down, you do some awesome stuff but it doesn’t hurt to ask for advice from the people who do this daily.
Have anyone succseeded to put a K-engine in a Porsche and make it last? Can the fact that the engine is positioned backwards from it usual position have anything to do with it? I would not put a $4000 built engine in the car before i aktuell know from my own experience that a K-engine can live in that car.
That turbo is not too big for any K series. Just run a 3 port, toss the built block in, and baby step your way to where you're happy. Also, stock transaxles will do better with larger turbos over smaller ones because it's the torque onset that's going to kill the drivetrain.
I know this is a lot more work... But I think Build one more budget engine. Use the parts and setup that you want for your built engine. Get comfortable with controlling the boost and how the engine responds to changes. Even if you keep the power output on the low side. The time spent tweaking and adjusting and thrashing on the engine will help you out in the long run. Then put the built engine in and have the dual tune setup. Again that is a lot of extra work. But in the long run it might save a lot of heartbreak and cash.
I don't know how good a stock motor with defcon in its sleeves will hold up , it works for J series motors, , maybe you can run cheap upgraded pistons ( I'm not sure one might get them for cheap )with the stock rods ( k series rods are stout) or build a motor with just defcon in the sleeves and all the other possible preventative measures to make a k series more capable that it already is
its the trials and tribulations of modifying vehicles mid-range power is what breaks these motors unless the boost went through the roof and cracked a sleeve...
You already have the built block, I say use it. Selling it can be difficult. No offense to your tuner, but lets have Brent or someone tune it this time.
Could this have something to do with the oil pan?? Tons of K’s make the same and more power than you and hold together. I would hate for you to delete your built engine immediately
Jdm low power and enjoy one of the most beautiful and unique 911’s on this planet especially with a/c
Give Brent at PFI Speed a shout, if he can't point you i the right direction, nobody can.
Build blok and a smaller turbo, i know it's easy for us to say what to do. But i believe you will have a lot of fun with the car.
Can you make a good motor out of the two bad ones you have or sell the good stuff out of the two bad motors to buy another stock block
You need to talk to Kyle he could give you som really good advice on which way to go.
I didn't understand the extent of the damage till I saw the Girdle
Boostcut is one of the most important features of a Standalone.
Use the built motor and get a better tuner, Brent at PFI comes to Mind.
Pow wow With PFI Speed & 0r Boosted Boiz.
Run a smaller turbo and another standard motor
Great content thanks for sharing
M54b30 turbo Porsche
Go on the safe and less expensive side.
Too much torquo on the conrodos all at once-o.
Is there room to dry sump ?
oil liter looks mint
Built motor!!!
What kills Ks is torque… especially on a stock bottom end. Whatever you do, you must either mitigate the torque limits with parts or stay below them. Ask Kyle. He’s got plenty of experience with this problem.
Also, you never said whether or not you gapped the rings to handle more boost. No matter which way you go that’s a must.
If you go back and watch Kyle’s MR2 videos you’ll find that he switched from K24 to K20 because he was grenading K24s because he was making more torque than they could handle.
No he swapped from k24 to k20 because of how high he was reving it
Built
Just scrolling through, I don't see any mention of data logging and fuel system. 5000 rpm 2 guys plus boost, did it go lean and detonate? My bet is detonation, cracked the piston and the rest was collateral damage.
Not even close.
Need to team up with the Boosted Boiz
The boosted Boiz blow up the majority of their motors…. They are nice entertainment but I’m not too confident in their knowledge…
@@loekfelten548 they blow up motors at 1000 HP pushing the platform to the max, this is less than half the power
@@seanthompson6720 Rowdissey: blown up, AWD Civic: boom too. More to come, I’m sure. Still nice entertainment 😎😉
@@seanthompson6720 IKR and they have hookups that get them on the right road to at least save themselves as much grief as possible. And they know what oil pan to use. The hatch motor lasted a long time till he 2,3, 2d it.
@@loekfelten548 those motors were pushing a lot more power that this one and lasted a hell of a lot longer
I think your engine got hurt when on the dyno in your last video. Your turbo is too big and all these k motors need attention when switching position due to oil feed setup. Did you tear into the old motor to see what caused a second one to blow up? Wish you all the best...and wrap your exhaust. I can imagine that these pipes can glow red when pushed hard. You do not want heat that close to your motor. I think you need to figure out what is happening, because if something external you can hurt a built block also?!? Third time will be the charm!!! Good luck!!!🙏👍
I would say to put in another stock block and tune it properly, then go with the big motor , cuz you have to get used to the car and it will help you develop your swap kit more
Built motor smaller turbo
It’s all in the tune let’s be real.
No the k24 has a problem with kicking the stock rods out. Put a good set of rods in and there fine.
Built block smaller turbo. Tell Brent I said he needs to help you tune it. At Fasterproms. :)