Escoffier sauce piquante: how making classic sauces can change the way you cook.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 มิ.ย. 2024
- Learning how to make classic French sauces will increase you culinary skills . This French version of the sauce piquante is a tangy sauce with tomato, gherkins and fresh herbs .
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0:00 Intro
3:26 The components of a sauce
04:52 Homemade cooking stock and alternatives
07:00 Making the sauce
17:47 Tasting notes
🧅🥕INGREDIENTS🥕🧅
For the sauce base:
500 ml / 2 cups brown veal or beef stock (either freshly made or of the shelf)
1 tablespoon onion (small rough chop)
1 tablespoon carrot (small rough chop)
1 tablespoon celery (small rough chop)
30 grams /1 oz pork belly (unsmoked and unsalted) cut small pieces
1 tablespoon of mushrooms trimming ( optional)
a small twig of thyme
100 ml / 3.3 fluid oz dry white wine
1 and a half tablespoon tomato paste
20 /0.7 oz grams butter
15 grams /0.5 oz plain all purpose (or T45 flour ideally) use 10 grams for a thinner consistency and more subtle taste.
For the reduction and flavoring:
150 ml / 5 fluid oz dry white wine
150 ml / 5 fluid oz good quality red or white wine vinegar ( I used apple cider vinegar)
1 tablespoon sweet and sour gherkins (finely chopped)
1 tablespoon of parsley (finely chopped)
1 tablespoon of chervil (finely chopped)
1 tablespoon of tarragon (finely chopped)
20 to 30 grams /1 oz (finely chopped shallot)
salt and pepper to season (I actually forgot to mention this in the video but the seasoning has to be added just before the herbs and gherkins. season to your own taste and add more pepper then salt.
Cooking notes:
- When combining the reduction and sauce base you only need to use 300 ml of the sauce base and add it to the vinegar and wine reduction.
- The sauce base has to be cooked and reduced for 20 minutes on low heat.
- The reduction of vinegar and wine must be reduced by half so you are left with only 150 ml in total at the end.
If you use an "of the shelf" ready made stock as shown in the video you will need to add 200 grams of beef of veal meat trimming alongside the pork. Sear the meats really well and only then add the aromatics and then the stock to the pan.
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My dream job is butter salesman in France.
I would love to be an organic dairy farmer, selling the heavy cream! HAHAHA! Especially in France!
I don’t know how buttermakers aren’t the wealthiest people in France.
Lol , this was hilarious comment😁
You only need one customer. Chef Jean- Pierre .
When I lived in London in the 1980’s , I worked in the kitchen of a great little wine bar, restaurant. One of the owners insisted that we used Escoffier recipes for many of our dishes. It was a great learning experience, but not very cost effective because of the time and effort involved for a small brigade of chefs! Regardless, the dishes were fantastic and very flavourful.
This is a better explanation than what I received in Culinary school! Mercì, Stephane
Toasted Flour! You Are a chef after my own heart! ❤️
@@jasonsmith2775, I know!
I love this channel! It brings classics to the home kitchen in a very understandable way. I have several books covering sauces, including ones dedicated to them, but they are invariably aimed at the professional cook or large scale cooking; so it requires a bit of experimentation to adapt them to modern family sizes.
The amount of time it takes to make a sauce may seem like it would make it infeasible for weekday cooking, but that is not necessarily the case:
* Stocks can be made in large batches and frozen, I use silicon ice trays or flexible muffin trays. I transfer them to a labelled freezer bag once frozen.
* A base sauce can be treated the same way, and then dressed up with fresh ingredients when you need it. You can put a portion of the frozen sauce in a pot on a back burner at low heat with a lid on when you start your cooking and it will be ready to dress up by the time the rest of the meal is done (or use a microwave, if you must).
I collect bones from roasts and the like, label and freeze them, and make the stock in a pressure cooker (a lot faster) when I have enough of it --and I have the time for it. After setting it up this is pretty much hands off.
To cool down the stock (or sauce) I fill a basin with cold water, ice, and ice packs (I freeze small tubs or bags of [water), I place a clean metal vessel in it to cool down 10-15 min before I need it. I normally leave the pressure cooker to depressurize naturally, so I will set this up as the timer goes off (and cooking stops). Once the stock is ready spoon out the large chunks with a spider or slotted spoon (I place it in a grill tray to retain/collect as much liquid as I can) and ladle the remaining liquid though a coarse sieve placed over a fine sieve (or strain it once cool). Add cold [stainless] whiskey stones to the hot liquid and stir (also occasionality agitate the water in the basin). It takes ~10 min to cool down enough to place in the fridge. Refrigerate for a few hours and then you can remove any fat that has separated. The stock is like soft jelly.
If you want to reduce the stock then strain it into a wide pot and simmer it down to your preferred consistency before doing the aforementioned cooling down.
When making a roux based sauce I initially add half the flour, cook it to get the colour/Maillard reaction, then add the remaining flour at lower heat. I also add the liquid in increments so as to reduce the probability of lumps forming (I'm taking time to strain sauces on a weekday). I bring the sauce up to heat (while stirring) until I notice a change in consistency, I then turn down the heat (still stirring) , put it on a very low (back) burner with a lid on until I need it (stirring occasionally). The details varies a bit with whatever the cooking times are for the rest of the dish, but faster times require higher heat which in turn requires more active work, and vice versa.
It is good to see the master has not been forgotten, my training in the early 70s was classic French, and Escoffier was the recognised leader
Stephane, I greatly enjoy your cooking demonstrations from my small farm, here in the French Alps. The secret of french cooking is to take what you have and make it very tasteful.
Peoples follow the rules of old Chefs, but the old Chefs originally purchased the cheapest ingredients and found the ways to make those very flavourful.
In my next life, I think I’d like to be a saucier (Hope I spelled that right!) Sauces are the soul of French food, they can make or break a meal. A good sauce and a crusty baguette and I’m a happy guy….merci as always Stephane !
baguettes are like 12-string guitars - they brighten up everything. try good anchovies and baguette...
Made this tonight... WOW! worth the work. Roommates loved it too.
Chapters shortcuts 😀
0:00 Intro
3:26 The components of a sauce
04:52 Homemade cooking stock and alternatives
07:00 Making the sauce
17:47 Tasting notes
Thank you for doing these! Super helpful. Been a long time subscriber
Excellent tutorial.
This jumped to the top of my list of new things to try. Thanks!
Thanks. You’ve got a great channel here and your love of food is infectious. I love cooking myself and I’ve learnt so much from you over the last couple of years. Keep up the good work.
Just amazing my friend! Looks so delicious!
Your sauce making school is simply brilliant!
Thank you 😊 sounds delicious 😋
The gleeful enthusiasm is great.
Nice job Stefan! All the times you show us what is your passion. From your start until now you have been made big and a lot of steps forward. Keep going guy. You worth any 👏
Thank you. Excellent.
Looks delicious simple to prepare love the little wine . job well done thanks for sharing
Superb, simply superb!
Stephane, I'm a luddite in the kitchen, I've got inferior ingredients also and yet you've got me to make a sauce that has blown my mind😁😁😁 thanks for your clear concise and well explained videos....
Well done giving it a go. Like you I was a neophyte a few years ago. As I got into it more and more I started exploring quality ingredients. Something as basic as black pepper can really improve a dish when you upgrade to whole Tellicherry peppercorns. Same too with whole nutmeg, real cinnamon (cinnamomum verum) from Sri Lanka (Ceylon), etc. I built a small solarium to grow herbs and some veg that are difficult to find where I live. Good quality ingredients plus these excellent instructions from Stephane produce brilliant dishes.
Amazing! i love those sauce videos!
I love this
I've only made espagnole once due to it requiring the most effort and ingredients out of all the mother sauces but this faux espagnole really makes want to cook more with it. What an inspiring video. Great job!
Your comment made me think of a new word: fauxscoffier 😀
I love this!!!
I love it the way expling and cooking style .Am intersting to wach your video realy thanks.
Very nicely explained ❤️
Cocodrie sauce piquante . Coo Yah ,,, C'est et Magnifique de Louisiane . Merci pour video . Bonjour de Nouvelle Orleans
Stephane, your offhand comment about having easy home-grown chervil will get chuckles from several family members here in Michigan. I have many herbs growing like weeds, but chervil survives maybe one year out of three, or four. Precious like diamonds. This year, a good one, just enough for one large pork pie. Your cooking with vinegar is an inspiration. Thanks.
Excellent - merci beaucoup!
I'm going to have a go at this. Thank you.
From Lafayette, LA, love the shout out to distinguish this from the Cajun "piquante" sauce I've made many times. I know cajun cuisine a lot better than French, but am loving learning the techniques... although I still can't get over only cooking your roux for just one minute.
Looks delicious. 😋
This sauce I will definitely make and very soon 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Something else is delicious with the Sauce Piquante it's Langue de Boeuf (boiled beef tongue). Thank you for your videos. I am watching them from Caen in France. I think your work is the best way to explain the French culture abroad France. Merci pour ces excellentes vidéos.
Well explained. Bravo.
Merci Stephane， your recipes are superb! My family love them.
thanks a lot and glad you like them
Wow, just wow...
Thanks!
That copper saucepan is absolutely beautiful.
Thanks for another fantastic video!😀
it’s a mauviel m250 😀👍
Great reseepee
Thank you so much for sharing this.
glad you like it
No longer a slave to recipes...except for sauce recipes! 😉
Very nice recipe 👍
I would like to suggest a video on best practices for preserving your meats, stocks and sauces for later use, e.g. pulling them from the fridge and using them.
A very flavourful looking sauce. Cheers, Stephane!
thanks it is really interesting sauce actually and it is definitely not boring . more restaurant should have it on their menu
This first time I made this sauce, it was my turn to do the kitchen lunch, my chef said.. "very nice.... but next time you do the cooking of the flour a bit longer eh? "... The man had incredible taste buds, he was the only one who picked up on it. It remains one of my favourite sauces and I always make sure to cook off the flour. Great video, brought back some great memories, thank you. 😁
I was wondering that. Do you recommend a dark or medium? His did look quite light.
@@shtmouth Definitely light, you're just cooking off the flour taste, do it with your nose, if it smells like pastry, not done, smells like butter, it's ready.it's not like a Cajun roux which is also used to colour the sauce, that's why the timing is important... Too much, it's "burnt", too little and the chef hits you upside the head...😁.
@@BoggWeasel Thank-you!!!
Very nice.
Delicious
Great sauce with Joue de porc veau,
Is that Raymond Blanc I spot on your shelf? ;) I adore him! Such a sweet chef, man, and mentor. If it is him, I wonder why I've never heard you mention him before.
This is my second time watching this and I had an idea for a modification. This could be converted into a barbecue sauce quite easily. Use a pork based stock, substitute the wine and vinegar for bourbon and apple cider vinegar, and add a dab of molasses. I bet that would blow people's minds at the next cookout.
I think I could pour that on ice and sip through a straw :) looks good. I am reminded of the vinegar chicken that I made a while ago. And I do have a nice lunch size portion in my freezer that is calling my name.
Forgive me for this, but I have to say it: I have made beef and chicken stock from bones, but none of my vegetables have bones. :) Thank you for the video. I love to cook foods from all different parts of the world, and making stocks/soups/roux, etc., has become the basics of almost all my cooking now.
But the vegetables can be the "bones" of a sauce! 😉 [Metaphorically speaking].
Vegetable stocks give me a bone… :(
Can you store these sauces or do they have to be eaten straight away? Amazing content by the way 👍
I’m loving it Stephan!! Sauce Zingara is another similar great sauce as well.
yes just need to find some ox tongue and truffle 🙂
Lamb cutlets zingara a classic, I cooked many times in the kitchens of London in the seventies
@@johnlander3194 still sounds good! I’m a chef in NYC. Must have been exciting times cooking in the UK during the 70’s and 80’s? Cheers!
You are a super👌👌
Love your videos of sauces! 3 questions Stephane:
1) What is toasted flour? Can I buy it, make/store it?
2) Gerkins are sour or sweet?
3) How do you feel about making sauces and then freezing them? Do I sacrifice a lot of flavor (looking for occasional quick steps when I don’t have any time)?
Thanks!
1 toasted flour : take sauce pan add a few tablespoon plain flour in it put on the stove on medium heat and wait until it start browning keep on stirring with a spoon until you get a uniform light brown color
gherkins are cornichons they are called sweet and sour gherkins on the jar i have
sauce don’t freeze well at all yes you will loose some flavors and certain sauces will split when reheated . you can freeze stock and sauce base like here the « espagnole » i made🙂👍
Thank you so much for sharing and I am seriously thinking to sign in for your program. How long can you keep this sauce in the fridge
10:22 Cooking that tomato paste down a little also brings out the sugars in it and calms down the acidity.
Beautiful, the saucier in a kitchen can make or break a dish I think.
I haven't had sauce piquante in quite a while. I know this may sound a strange mix but I used to love it spooned over lamb/mutton with baked eggs. Its all very rich so you don't need much but it makes a great winter warmer.
Great video, thank you for reminding me of this sauce.
That sounds great! Question tho…is mutton readily available where you live? I live in the Midwest USA, farm country, but not sheep country. Lamb yes, sheep no.
@@makelikeatree1696 Sorry for the delay in answering, hadn't seen your question.
I'm in Scotland where mutton used to be fairly common. But not these days. With more TV & YT chefs using it it is starting to come back, & my local butcher can get it for me, but I have to order ahead. Luckily I also know some farmers & have gone in with a mate to buy a whole carcass before. Luckily I taught myself to butcher when I still hunted.
If I cant get mutton then hogget [two year old lamb/sheep] is a good alternative, not as full flavoured as mutton, but still tender like lamb].
I think if more of us keep asking the butchers for it, they'll stark to stock it.
I do like goat as well, but feel a little guilty eating them as I like goats when they're alive. 🐑 🐐
Yay more sauces!!! Now if only I could not overcook my proteins…
15:30 I do love the parallel reverance and annoyance at Escoffier
This is an amazing sauce with tenderloin! I have two questions. Would this sauce go with scallops or is it too overpowering? And did escoffier have a sauce for scallops ?
🥸 I'm flabbergasted by this fine display.
It’s called experience!
Going to try this sauce very soon. One question, what's the best way to store this sauce and can it be frozen for future use?
Hi Stephane, what do you recommend if this is at home where I would buy pieces of bony meat. Should I still separate meat from bone and do the processes separately?
Could you explain the toasted flour and what it does for your roux?
I ususally cook the rue until it's the colour I need in the pan. I thing I was taught some time that you can make rue ahead of time too so then you could have brown and blond rue ready made in the fridge. Why I do this is because the maillard reactions from cooking the flour makes a really nice flavour.
*roux
What I can never figure out is why Stephane's cooktop looks so much cleaner than mine........lol
What recipe do you use for your beef stock. Not the complicated Escoffier brown stock. Thank you
I'm always stunned about Stephane's fearless approach to present recipes that seem a bit outdated (making a roux is so grandma style) and in the end they all work out pretty well. Yet another proof of the genius of M. Escoffier.👍
Also it makes me smile all the time when - despite Stephane's excellent english skills - some one-to-one translated french (standard) expressions slip in... in my view / à mon avis, in effect / en effet 😁😁
Francophone german here with all the best regards from the other side of the globe 😊
Hi Stephane. Brilliant explanation. Thank you.
Next time you do a sauce, could you include some hints on storing leftovers and reheating? It seems that no matter what kind of sauce I make, the first day it’s lovely, but then the next day it’s glop. Tasty glop, but glop. I’d really like to sort that issue out one of these days.
what is glop?
@@FrenchCookingAcademy More or less what it sounds like! An undefined, gelatinous mass. I'd just add a little water, put it on low heat, stir like crazy, and finish with butter.
Just re-heat with more liquid and whisk as you are going along/bringing it back to temp. Add as much liquid as needed to your taste. If you stored the meat and sauce together re-heat them separately. If using a microwave use low settings and heat them together bringing them slowly loosely covered to the same temp, I use level 2 or 3 for about 20 minutes, remove the meat and whisk/stir the sauce adding more liquid if necessary. If, for instance, you have meat, sauce and rice, just be patient in the microwave and bring them slowly to temp at low settings loosely covered adding more liquid if needed.
@@zonacrs This is good advice. I would recommend always storing the sauce separately if the meat is sensitive to reheating. Add enough cold water to get the consistency just a little bit runnier than you want it to be in the end. If the meat is something that would overcook if reheated then I slice it thin and add it to the warm sauce at the end (sauce reheats it). Something like a stew or braise just needs a tablespoon or so of cold water (per portion) mixed in before reheating (slowly).
If I'm lazy I will mix the sauce, rice, other veg, together, with a bit of cold water and heat it up together (covered on medium-low), then add the meat at the end.
Starchy veg, e.g. potatoes, are in my opinion best reheated in either the oven or fried.
I usually use "old sauce" as a base for new sauce rather than something i can just reheat. We can carefully cook up a clumpy sauce and add some flavored liquid to get the wanted consistency
can these be also put as the sauce for spagetti
I'm trying to avoid the rabbit hole of French sauces but once I try this and serve it to my family I might not have a choice!
I would like to buy the book ware can I buy it
Stéphane, pourriez-vous indiquer lorsque vos recettes sont congelables. Merci. Laurence
Bon jour! Can you offer any recommendations for substitutions on the gherkins? It sounds like they contribute a textural element that's essential, so I'm thinking along the lines of a pepper, like canned green chiles or even something much more assertive, like a diced habanero -- but I'd like your opinion before I ruin an Escoffier sauce. I just really hate gherkins....
Maybe do a bread and butter type of pickle. Green Chile's would likely be pretty gross.
Try capers. I would only use half the amount.
bonjour Stéphane, Comme vous vous en souvenez peut-être, je suis le Cajun (né en Louisiane) et j'ai vécu au Mexique, aux Pays-Bas, en France, en Angola et pendant de nombreuses années au Brésil où j'ai pris ma retraite en 2015. Dans la cuisine cajun notre sauce piquante est en effet un peu plus « piquante que la recette originale d'Escoffier et s'utilise assez souvent avec des fruits de mer notamment avec des écrevisses (écrevisse), des crevettes, etc.
oui j’ai lu cela un peu c’est très intéressant cette héritage de cuisine cajun 🙂
Where do you find those prepared stocks without salt, which sort of grocery store? I’m in Australia as well
Cambell's stock is available salt reduced. They used to have salt-free too, not sure if still available. Was at Coles and Woolworths.
toasting the flour prior to using it in a roux? That's genius and next-level thinking! Any information on how to best toast it? Time/Temperature/thickness/heat source?
Consider toasted sugar too. I read about it at serious eats and now keep a stash on hand for baked goods. It adds a nice depth of flavor.
I'm pretty sure you just bake it at like 140°C until it goes golden, but I too need to hear it from the man himself
you can easily do it by putting a few tablespoon of flour in a saucepan on medium heat keep an eye on it and stir until you get the désired color 🙂👍
Stephane, brilliant comme toujours. Any thoughts on how this might be done in a batch and frozen? I could see putting this in an ice tray and freezing it in cubes, storing in a bag and taking what you need to finish a particular dish. Les pensees?
stock and sauce base can be frozen easily but stock is really the on thing that’s time consuming to make . so if anything it is best freeze batch of stocks in ask jars of bags . if you were to freeze the sauce base you would need to stock to it when reusing it as it will tend to become very thick 👍
You had me when you said that you would free us 'from recipe slavery'.
Are the gherkins sour, dill, or sweet, or is the choice up to the cook?
sweet and sour in brine
Sir can make stock with chicken born
What is the lining of your saucier? Nickle? Mine are tin lined
That's a Mauviel model M'Heritage m250 which is stainless-steel lined. The big makers like Mauviel, Falk, de Buyer, Matfer Bourgeat, Ruffoni, and Lagostina typically use stainless. Mauviel's top of the line M'Tradition is tin lined and so too is Ruffoni's Historia line. Small, speciality manufacturers such as Brooklyn, Sertodo, Rinomata Rameria Mazzetti, Atelier du Cuivre, and Duparquet offer tin-lined and the last three even offer silver-lined, which is more durable than tin and can be heated to much higher temperature than tin's 230 celsius (about 450 f). If you want to see eye-watering priced cookware, check out Duparque's solid silver.
I don't know of any current maker that lines with nickel. Appears it fell out of favour when the technology to line stainless to copper was developed - stainless steel, an alloy, is made with nickel. I have seen vintage nickel-lined copper (usually French made from the late '70s and early '80s), and often these have the attribute of being very thick - 3mm and greater. Of course, the thicker the copper the more BTUs needed to heat it to its optimal temperature - a lot of the vintage copper was once used at restaurants which have high BTU commercial-grade burners and ovens. There are not that many who re-tin copper, and I haven't found anyone who offers to re-nickel it, though I reckon there is someone somewhere who has the know-how.
Can this sauce be kept in the fridge or freezer?
I'm no expert, but in my experience, any roux based sauce can be frozen and reheated.
in what recipe sir can we applythe sauce.. can this be also be used in chicken or pork
Chicken, veal or pork. You could use it on more robust meat (beef, goat, sheep, etc.) as well, but not to best effect.
Would a meaty fish like swordfish or mahi mahi work?
Chef are you familiar with a sauce made with caramelized carrots?
Bordier butter courses through my veins
? When cooking the final sauce, would you deglaze the sides of the pan & incorporate the fond back into the sauce? Or am I overthinking it? Thanks! 👍
Yes
Golden liquid
He start at 7:44
Can you buy roasted flower
Great Video, Stephan! IS the pork belly for fat? I find the smell of frying pork belly very off putting….. Hope you can comment! Thanks!
Forgive me for English is not my native language. Gurkins are only pickled cucumbers of can they be fresh too? (is seems to me you are using pickled). tks
These would be pickled.
@@namelessone3339 tks
they are cornichons
Never found an escoffier recipe that doesn’t work? I’ve always thought sole caprice sounded on the edge.
Bonjour Chef. At 15:20 with the spoin, is that
"à la nappe?"
Here's a nice easy way to keep chicken stock in stock (see what I did there?). Roast a chicken in a pressure cooker or instant pot. Carve and serve the chicken, and put all the waste (carcass, wings, giblets, whatever) back into the pot. Cover with water and cook for another hour. Strain. Boom.
I'm not sure you can roast (dry heat) a chicken in a pressure cooker, but I agree with the rest. I stuff my chicken with offcuts of herbs and vegetables before roasting (in an oven) all of which goes into the pot (with the bones and additional herbs and veg). I also freeze the [cut up] carcass and bones from when I break down a raw chicken. Roast chicken gives flavour, raw chicken bones adds body. I have in the past roasted a chicken for the express purpose of making stock (of course the meat gets used for other things).
@@TheAndreArtus good call. I guess it would technically be braised or steamed.
@@Swim2TheMoon I think your underlying point, and I concur, is that there is still a lot of value in them old bones. Although as wet cooking already extracts a lot of the goodness into the water a dry method, like a roast, would be best when salvaging from a cooked product.