The 5-Minute DIY Sailboat Survey: A 15-point inspection to vet potential sailboat purchases!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 เม.ย. 2024
- @boatfools #sailing #sailboatsforsale #boatsurvey
This is The 5-Minute DIY Sailboat Survey - a 15-Point Inspection that you should be able to whip though in about 5 minutes. This is a top level, simple DIY list that will help you quickly determine if a sailboat is worthy of being on your potential wish list. You've got your budget, your place to moor and store your boat, now you just need your dream machine to make it all come to fruition. You have 5 sailboats within your budget and you don't want to hire a marine surveyor to look at everyone of them. So what do you do? You get out there and start kicking the proverbial wheels, or jack stands, as it were. You have the know-how and this list will keep you focused. Grab a large screwdriver, a notepad, a flashlight, and a camera and get out there! Sailing season is coming right up - don't miss another one!
Below is more or less what we go over in the video. Have any questions? Contact us at boatfools1@gmail.com. And, if you're more experienced and this is boring for you, leave some tips, tricks, and hacks in the comments for the less experienced boaters out there! Thanks for watching and get busy sailing or get busy trying!
EXTERIOR:
Check for blisters
Inspect keel joint (if not encapsulated)
Ensure prop shaft isn't loose
Confirm rudder alignment with keel (sight down from behind the rudder toward trailing edge of keel)
ON DECK:
Conduct tap test with screwdriver butt
Assess deck and lazarette cleanliness
Look for excessive crazing and stress cracks around stanchions
Inspect standing rigging (if mast is up, on deck, or near the boat)
BELOW DECK:
Verify engine access and components (oil filter, dipstick, etc.)
Check for excessive staining on sole floor
Examine staining around ports and hatches
Assess cleanliness and odors
Inspect bilge, keel bolts, stringers, and framing
Examine chainplates
Do doors close and latch as they should? - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
I would also have checked the rudder bearing to make sure it didn't have any play. One thing that can be a real issue is the batteries. depending on where the batteries are, it can be a big job to replace them. Personally, I would walk from a boat with big batteries (4Dor 8D) because big batteries are HEAVY and really need two people to get them out and back into the boat. Also check the condition of the batteries and the wiring to them.
Unless the rigging is pretty new, you will likely want to replace it within a few years. So I wouldn't sweat the rigging much unless it needs replacing now. If you own a quality tape measure you can easily replace your own standing rigging for a lot less than $5K on a 38' sloop. I see no need for a rigger. Just remove the suspect wires, measure them and order new ones. Easy. I use rigging only down in Fairhaven, MA. They are fast and have great prices. You can even do your own rigging. Jut buy the wire and some mechanical fittings. You will need a hacksaw, tape measure and a couple of wrenches. Once you get build a couple of wires you will have it down and can finish the entire boat in a couple of days. Furlers are a bit more work, but you can easily install a new forestay and furler in a day.
All good points!
These videos are so useful, I really enjoy the style of the channel no clickbait BS just good solid info.
Thank you, Kyle, and thanks for watching!
Really great job. I would add some things to check but your list is great. Take pictures of everything, open everything you can.
We might do a part 2! Thank you for your continued support!
@@boatfools once you have done the initial walk thru, and proceeded to pay for a survey, do people often walk away after shelling out survey money? You have kind of showed your hand to the seller? Do you make a pre-survey offer? Just to see if you are in the ballpark?
I like your name, discussion and comments 👍”a fools advice is often the best advice” my darling Mother 😂
Hey, broker and surveyor here. I’ve sold 2 Morgan 382 over the years. Some good info here. I find many buyers put an overemphasis on bottom paint condition. IMO it’s a good idea to start with taking back to gel and applying new barrier coats and bottom paint. Then you know where you’re starting, unless there’s documented recent renewal of barrier coat. The issue on the keel of that first boat would give me greater concern. Especially considering your climate there, and if water has migrated into that section of the keep, expansion and contraction of freezing water can cause those cracks. Whereas, and as a steel boat owner and welder, the rust on iron keel is a relatively easy fix and best addressed by sand blasting then barrier coating (I prefer interprotect 2000E) and followed by bottom paint. When done correctly, that repair a last for nearly a decade without any further rusting.
Great info in your comment. Thank you!
As far as the Sabre goes (with the keel joint crack on the 28 and 36), Sabre actually has information in their owner’s manual that essentially says it’s a non issue - just check your keel bolts and torque from time to time. But all joints cracks are not created equally so one must do their homework for each case.
As far as the iron keel goes, I should have been more clear. They are not bad, but that one looked bad. And, based on the principle of substitution, if you have a $25,000 budget, and there is a boat available without an iron keel that needs a substantial amount of work, pick the other boat, all other things being equal. Iron keels and ballast have been around forever, it’s all about maintenance. Thanks again for your insight!
I ask "will it sink me?" Bottom paint won't. Through hulls will. I would add those to a quick glance if you can shine a light up and see what type they are.
@@shemraschke absolutely, very important to check out thru-hulls! Check how they’re bedded, backing plates, ease of operation, oxidization or corrosion, discoloration of bronze, bonding, etc.
@@LearnToSailMexico Good info. I just looked at your channel. Are you in san carlos? I was just down there during santa semana. Maybe a little high dollar for my sailing budget, but a great place to beach camp!
@@shemraschke yes, San Carlos…it can be pricey here to visit as a tourist, but it’s actually one of the more affordable places in Mexico to have a boat, for yard fees, marina fees, etc. And as a local, cost of living is quite reasonable. We actually live in Guaymas, so there’s many affordable options for groceries and other necessities, not jacked up for tourists.
You also want to pay particular attention to keel step or base of compression posts for mast. As well as base of bulkheads looking for delam of tabbing or wood rot.
100%!
Why pay a surveyor upfront when you can do the basics yourself, bravo gentlemen. Another brilliant video. I almost made it up to Maine two weeks ago to look at a beautiful wooden. Hopefully I’ll have better weather in the summer.
Thank you, sir! If you make it to the midcoast, give us a shout!
@@boatfools I will, thank you.
Excellent episode! And very applicable to my situation having just flown from Dallas to Baltimore to arrange to meet a surveyor at a boat I had under contract on the Chesapeake near Annapolis. The survey lasted about 10 min because as soon as he stepped on deck it was soft and rotted and went off the chart on the moisture meter. He didn’t finish the survey and agreed to half price. But that was still $500!! Appreciate you for sharing all your wisdom through experience!
I’m sorry you went through all of that trouble to learn that. Someone should have known well in advance about those soft decks and said something. Sheesh…
@@boatfools
It’s all good! Everything happens for a reason and I learned so much about the process.
@@jeffreyhutchinsdo that’s 💯 the right attitude when dealing with sailing and boats. Lessons learned are more valuable than gold. Keep looking and if you want eyes on a deltaville boat before booking a ticket let me know.
Very good video. thank you.
Thank you, sir! Appreciate the feedback!
This is a great video. Also a great punch list of what to look at on my boat every season.
New York Charlie! Thank you, sir!
Good stuff, your Morgan engine compartment looks great. Thanks guys
Thanks Patrick!
Brilliant video I have learned so much,many thanks gentlemen.
Thank you and thank you for watching!
I go straight to the engine bed to check for rot. That's the first.
An excellent tip!
I wish I knew this last year
@@jsmith3728 I kind of want to know what happened but I am afraid to ask!
@@boatfools I’ll reply because others need to know but I will keep it vague… when something is a “good deal” you should make sure it’s sound. The boat didn’t pass survey because of a “bad engine mount” I had to motor through a some locks for 12 hours to get the boat “home”… now that I’ve inspected it I’ve found that the aft mounts have been punched into the ( it rotten) engine beds… long story short my motor is out of the boat and I splash in 3 weeks.
Great Video. Will help new to me potential owners from spending money they could be spending fixing the one they do buy.
Only thing I would add is notepad and calculator (or just use your phone). It’s all a numbers game. If you know the value of a boat that is up to snuff for that model and the price of each repair then you have a number for the value to you. Keep in mind to pay yourself some for your time with repairs or look at it as skipper school tuition.
Glad you found it useful! And you make a good point. Taking notes and pictures is key. As are multiple visits to a sailboat of interest. You’ll see something new each time (for better or for worse!). Thanks for watching!
Really great video!!! I always watch but this really stands out also I’m sure it will help someone
Thank you for the kind feedback!
Great info, thanks guys. New sub here
Welcome aboard! And thanks for watching!
Very informative.👍🏾 I’m subscribed🎉🎊🍾🎈
Thank you, Terrance! Welcome aboard! Let me know how the sailing lessons go!
Great vids with lotsa good tips. Presently searching for a boat. Your vids are very helpful. Keep up the good work. New subscriber here! Cheers from Montreal region.
Hi Roland! Welcome aboard and thank you for your comment! Good luck with your boat search. What are you in the market for? Canadian Ken is from Montreal. I’ve been up there twice - love it!
@@boatfools Current boat Pearson 26 is on Lake Champlain. Presently looking at a 1984 Tartan 37 CB but it has suffered neglect due to Covid and the skippers illness. The lady wants it gone. I'm flip flopping on what to do...!!!
An otherwise nice Cal33, totally worthy of fixing the rudder at the right price. Well made, great sailing machine. But the one stripping a whole bottom back to glass, barrier coat, fairing it and finally paint is a big project I've done. FYI, your engine compartment with no insulation is 3x as loud as one with. The are solid wood cabin soles, and ones of cheap plywood that look similar. The former is just elbow grease to restore. Ports + veneer and trim can be a difficult job to get right and watertight.
Agreed. Sweet boat. I jumped the gun on saying pass. But did change my mind. Actually none of these boats are for sale. Just found them to use as examples. However there is a Cal-33 for sale in Maine right now and it looks pretty nice! Great racer-cruisers.
A question: Your own boat has primary and backup fuel ( diesel?) filters. Both are charged with fuel. Each has distinctly different fuel colours ( non US spelling 😂). Why?
Just a small point to clarify if possible.
Absolutely! That yellow diesel is from a gas station so no dye in it. And we have yet to use that one! You are the first one to mention that. Good eye! And thanks for watching!
In my opinion if the engine and decks are good and there's not a lot of blistering and the rigging isn't falling off, everything can be fixed. Of course people want everything free and now but I would be more interested in a seaworthy boat in its design over having to do some repairs. I would much rather have a full keel deck stepped mast boat and walk away from a fin keel but to each their own. That's just me. That Cape Dory 30 at the beginning is the boat of choice hands down even if it needs work. That boat will most likely live even if the captain and crew doesn't.
Agree with your thoughts here. And about the CD 30: sturdy, solid, will go anywhere. And that one is cutter rigged. Aces. Thanks for chiming in!
And then there's people like me with other criteria. Free wooden boat. 2 were avaliable on Cape Cod. I only got a reply from one owner. I'm kinda glad i got Maverick. The other was a 1945 fin keeled wooden boat. That woulda been a colossal PITA to work on.
Exactly. You’ve the know-how and the place to do it. And endless patience! It’s impressive, what you’re doing and when you launch her, it will be one of your proudest moments.
Great episode as usual. One other item that i would look for that you did not mention with regard to the engine access is the starter motor location, especially on a used boat. The starter is a key component of the engine -- without the starter all of the other components are irrelevant, if you can't start the engine it really does not matter if you have top of the line filtration for the fuel!!! The starter is a wear item that can easily be damaged by water intrusion or insufficient voltage supply (starts with weak battery) -- at some point you will be replacing the starter of every motor. Idea for a follow up episode: What is the price point at which a professional survey becomes worth while? If you are just breaking into boating and your budget is only $10k, do you do your own survey or pay for the professional survey? When the money for the survey might allow you to "buy up" to a better boat, is it still better to spend the money on the survey -- the average boats in this range are Catalina 22, Cal 22, Compac 18, Compac 23, Hunter 23, and Tanzer 22 etc., many of which have very few components that are not repairable by the average person.
Excellent points! A follow up episode is likely! Thanks, as always, for your comments and insights.
On the keel bolts, would it be prudent to put something like Loctite on it to help with the backing off? or is that a no-no?
No, I wouldn't use Loctite, as this would make torquing or removal that much more difficult. Checking your keel bolts is really a once a season situation under typical use - like seasonal sailing up here in the NE. It would take a long time and extraordinary conditions for all of your keel bolt nuts to back off to a point where your keel will just drop off. But checking them periodically is an ounce of prevention... Thanks for watching and for your question!
I have a nice 31' Bombay Clipper and two inboard marine diesel engines for sale over in Portsmouth, NH
Is she listed on FB? Craigslist? Or with a broker?
@@boatfools no, haven't done anything with listings yet. I'm just now finishing a repower and fresh paint. Figured I'd get that done before getting too deep into the listings, but other than that it's ready to go and in excellent condition.
@@boatfools swapped out the Westerbeke for a Volvo Penta.
If the hatches and doors don't close that's a sign that somethin in the boat has warped within the frame of the boat.
Yep!
I have a Catalina 38 1982 SS. The entire sole is integrated fiberglas ,dropped in to the hull when built . No wood any where . All bulkheads are 6 inches above sole when they become mahogony . I rarely see this on older boats..
Nice! A lot less to worry about! Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching!
That Catalina is based on the Yankee 38 mold - has the prettiest tumblehome. Great boat. Well, you have a lot less to worry about! Thanks for watching!
Thanks. It looks like a 34 footer in the water . Low freeboard. It is 16500 lbs. of displacement so it handles rough seas well.