On these types of work, also very important to consider are the top shell layers. If you have to sand a lot, and you don't have enough layers, you risk wearing out the top surface. I do at least 6 top layers. The bottom, on the other hand, only needs 3 or 4, which does not need post processing.
That was an interesting video, thank you. Two things I'd do different are, 1, cut the mixing stick flat to be able to get into the corners of the cup (round doesn't "scrape" the resin from the corners} and 2, use gloves all the time because no matter how clean your hands are they still have body oil on then and it could affect the paint/primer you put down (unless you use wax and grease remover before priming/painting). Thank you again for your time and video.
Hey Andy! Mixing stick makes total sense thank you. As far as the gloves, I 100% put them on once I am ready to paint/primer. I normally work bare hands but once I am ready to apply something that needs a clean surface I throw some gloves on and then Clean/Paint. I learned the hard way how important this is lol.
one option to smooth it out that may be worth trying is acetone smoothing. Basically exposing the plastic to acetone vapors and it reacts with the plastic to create a very smooth surface
@@mike230224 sadly doesnt work with petg. But I am also not worried about the smoothing as i am about the mold being air tight which is why coating with resin is so critical. Otherwise air gets thru the filament during infusion.
Can you share the brand/name you use? Would love to look into this as well. I am by no means doing it the "right" way, just a way thats been finally not leaving me pissed with infusion lol
@@poltdesigns i use R&G. It's a german company i believe. And most of their epoxy products are aviation approved. I'm not saying u are doing it wrong. I just like the gel coat a bit more cause it's a little thicker like sirup.
So with my GTR side window cover mold, so far I have done about 8-10 and zero issues. Every part came out perfect and was sold to customers. I am positive its not as good as a traditional mold, but if taken care of I can see these working out well.
Hm, I make 3d printed molds for fiberglass and just glass straight on the mold with release agent.... I just sand and use a little wood filler if I need it but go up to 2000 grit then start the glassing process....this looks like it'll get a more consistent finish but that's alot of work too lol
@@webreakforsquirrel4201 so I actually do use the putty or filler if I have dramatic gaps or serious issues with prints. But if its to use it for removing layer lines than nah because by the time I add my primer layer all the lines are gone. They actually are gone after about 2nd stage of resin for me.
I honestly do not know. I tried to uuse tooling gelcoat on a test part and wasn't confident to use it on a real part. The primer is also very very easy to sand which is why I use it. And I have a gun for it so its easy to apply even as well as clean the gun after.
Would a kitchen oven from Amazon work well as a shop oven, or is it better to DIY an oven for use? I'm only building for myself with carbon fiber in two categories: ultralight hiking gear and electric longboard gear. I'm in the process of building a carbon trailer to be pulled by my electric longboard. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I think a kitchen oven would work just fine. Its all about curing the resin. You can also just cure it at room temperature it will just take longer. Hope this helps.
Does that mean that if I leave it at room temperature, it will cure enough to reach a temperature resistance of 150⁰c? Because after just the molding process, carbon fiber composite heat resistance is around 80 to 100⁰c.
On these types of work, also very important to consider are the top shell layers.
If you have to sand a lot, and you don't have enough layers, you risk wearing out the top surface. I do at least 6 top layers.
The bottom, on the other hand, only needs 3 or 4, which does not need post processing.
Can’t wait to see the carbon part! Great job so far 👍🏻
That was an interesting video, thank you. Two things I'd do different are, 1, cut the mixing stick flat to be able to get into the corners of the cup (round doesn't "scrape" the resin from the corners} and 2, use gloves all the time because no matter how clean your hands are they still have body oil on then and it could affect the paint/primer you put down (unless you use wax and grease remover before priming/painting). Thank you again for your time and video.
Hey Andy!
Mixing stick makes total sense thank you. As far as the gloves, I 100% put them on once I am ready to paint/primer. I normally work bare hands but once I am ready to apply something that needs a clean surface I throw some gloves on and then Clean/Paint. I learned the hard way how important this is lol.
looking forward to the results
Doing very similar tests right now haha glad to see this pop up
Hi, the video is very explanatory, I will try to learn the method to apply it to some mold.
one option to smooth it out that may be worth trying is acetone smoothing. Basically exposing the plastic to acetone vapors and it reacts with the plastic to create a very smooth surface
@@mike230224 sadly doesnt work with petg. But I am also not worried about the smoothing as i am about the mold being air tight which is why coating with resin is so critical. Otherwise air gets thru the filament during infusion.
I use epoxy gelcoat to fill in the layer lines. Prefect to get a smooth mirror like finish.
Can you share the brand/name you use? Would love to look into this as well. I am by no means doing it the "right" way, just a way thats been finally not leaving me pissed with infusion lol
@@poltdesigns i use R&G. It's a german company i believe. And most of their epoxy products are aviation approved. I'm not saying u are doing it wrong. I just like the gel coat a bit more cause it's a little thicker like sirup.
@@TheTechnoaddict 100% agree. I might have to try a mold with your method. I do have Gelcoat laying around but its not epoxy lol.
@@poltdesigns don't know if it matters. Only used epoxy so far.
I remember those logo speakers from the Mesozoic era
Try uv resin thats used in 3d printers, you can add multiple layers quickly just curing with uv lamp between coats😉
How many infusions can you do in the same mold? btw making method looks pretty nice keep up the good work
So with my GTR side window cover mold, so far I have done about 8-10 and zero issues. Every part came out perfect and was sold to customers. I am positive its not as good as a traditional mold, but if taken care of I can see these working out well.
Hm, I make 3d printed molds for fiberglass and just glass straight on the mold with release agent.... I just sand and use a little wood filler if I need it but go up to 2000 grit then start the glassing process....this looks like it'll get a more consistent finish but that's alot of work too lol
@@BoringFlightVids do you infuse your fiberglass under vac or just spray gelcoat and then lay the glass down?
It was a shame you didn’t show the finished products, like you had on your cover photo.
Looking forward to seeing them created.
@@stevesloan6775 im actually making the part tonight! Just needed a better cover image than just a mold lol
Have you tried using a body filler then sanding before you resin coat it?
@@webreakforsquirrel4201 so I actually do use the putty or filler if I have dramatic gaps or serious issues with prints. But if its to use it for removing layer lines than nah because by the time I add my primer layer all the lines are gone. They actually are gone after about 2nd stage of resin for me.
Looks nice. If you were to use a gel coat or tooling resin instead of the one you used, would you be able to get away without using the primer?
I honestly do not know. I tried to uuse tooling gelcoat on a test part and wasn't confident to use it on a real part. The primer is also very very easy to sand which is why I use it. And I have a gun for it so its easy to apply even as well as clean the gun after.
Which polishing compound and polishing wheel di you use for polishing? Nice job!
@@arogelj i use sonax cutmax with medium wool pad
Would a kitchen oven from Amazon work well as a shop oven, or is it better to DIY an oven for use? I'm only building for myself with carbon fiber in two categories: ultralight hiking gear and electric longboard gear. I'm in the process of building a carbon trailer to be pulled by my electric longboard. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I think a kitchen oven would work just fine. Its all about curing the resin. You can also just cure it at room temperature it will just take longer. Hope this helps.
Does that mean that if I leave it at room temperature, it will cure enough to reach a temperature resistance of 150⁰c? Because after just the molding process, carbon fiber composite heat resistance is around 80 to 100⁰c.
Epoxy or polyester resin?
Epoxy only for me.
17:20
"Can I pet them dogs" 😭
@@zenginellc hahahaha. Yeah doggies always welcome in my garage 😂. Only time I lock them out is when toxic fumes. Otherwise its all theirs lol
Working with resin and sanding inside, you really should wear a mask